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  • The ULTIMATE Watch_Dogs Optimisation
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  • Its not a blog just dont know how to post
  • I need Evolve Key please message me if you have one
  • tacodemauro's Blog
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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
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  • Things Nowak Says
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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • eestimees50000's Blog
  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
  • I blogged
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  • shadakak's Blog
  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
  • Brother PC Build
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  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
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  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
  • Nvidia GTX 660 ti wanted
  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
  • YeahLOLNo's Casual N00b Blog
  • Le boring life of Zach
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  • Slim 24 Pro India
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  • Power Supply
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  • need help GPU not working!
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  • Building My First Gaming PC
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  • Big Giveaway :D
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  • Big Giveaway :-))))))
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  • Big giveaway!
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  • my mice issues
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  • Editing program For gtx 900 series
  • Ctrl's Blog
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  • Gaming PC need it at ~$650-700
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  • Procesador
  • Fx 6300 With gtx 960 or r9 280x is best
  • ThatGuyWhoTwirlsHisPen's Blog
  • Moving to the PC Master Race
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  • Need Help With GPU Choice
  • What should I buy for video editing?
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  • CoolaxGaming's LTT life
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  • Casper The Cat
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  • Asus 24" VG248QE or BenQ XL2411Z
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  • Bazinga's Pc?
  • My $1000 Gaming Pc Build
  • A new way to watercool a pc? And an hybrid solution!
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  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
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  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
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  • My first gaming PC
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  • Where to Buy Asus NX90?
  • Building a 600€ gaming PC
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  • Tommy-b-10's Server Build
  • Lowering the voltage
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  • Taylor borie's Blog
  • is this pc good
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  • Recommendations for water cooling
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  • Elllie's Pooter blog with some sparkles and custard
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
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  • Calvin10112's Blog
  • Fx 9590 Cooling
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  • Help with parts and bottlenecking
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  • HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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  • HELP!
  • JBPblogging
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
  • ShayanLP's Blog
  • R4 Build #2
  • RAVE
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  • Epiceleon's Blog
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  • PC Spec help
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  • ZonkyHD
  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
  • SirMonti's Blog
  • PC Issues
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  • Which headphones
  • Lyngaa's Blog
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
  • My Gaming Rig Review
  • Drummaboy57's Blog
  • A techy blog
  • WIDE SCREENS UHH :3
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  • Jake's Tech Selects
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  • PSU Upgrade?
  • Thoughts from Sunshine1868
  • handymanshandle's Blog of Blogginess
  • one fault about amd GPUs
  • For the Noobs
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  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
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  • THE BEAST
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
  • Hackintosh Under 5000 USD
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Noob Builder
  • Love Minecraft Blog
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  • Sound Card suggestions?
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  • Choosing a UPS battery backup
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  • Windows on a laptop?
  • Gaming/Work-Horse PC
  • B1tKru5h3r (My workstation)
  • Ultraretrotech
  • cestigoy375's Blog
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  • Xenift's BuildVille
  • TELL US YOUR PC SPECS
  • LTT Audio Sub Recommended Audio Gear
  • arnab_razor's Blog
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  • MrUnknownEMC's Christmas Giveaway
  • shadowbyte
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  1. Greetings, community member of LMG.gg I have build my PC last year on AM5 system, and I use B650 AORUS ELITE AX v1.0 and onboard Wi-Fi (AMD RZ616) At first, it all works fine with no issue, but after some time, the Wi-Fi is not detected on my rig I have searched online to solve it, and it turns out by doing "Power Flush" (remove all USB plug, turn off the PSU switch, press and hold the power button for +- 20 sec) Although it "fix" the problem, it occurs after few days or a week I do power flush to fix it when the Wi-Fi is not detected and I mainly use Ethernet as main internet source. But after a year, I started to feel it's too much trouble and is there anyway to fix on the long term without replacing the Wi-Fi module? Can someone share experience on using AMD RZ616 Wi-Fi on their rig? P.S. - I also notice that on the GIGABYTE AORUS website, their latest PCB version is using Intel AX210, so maybe not everyone that use the same board as mine will have the same problem - I have updated my Motherboard's BIOS to the latest regularly since it's a rather new platform (AM5)
  2. Hello guys. I have an question. I want to upgrade my current router ( old D-link), with something with at least 2.5 GB LAN ports. My problem is that currently all of my smart switches, IoT and some of network infrastructure is connected to the current Wi-fi. Is there a way how to clone the wi-fi network ( SSID, MAC address, obviosly name and PW ) on new router ? I don't really want to open walls to reset and reconnect some of the switches Thank you all.
  3. I live in an old house built in the 1960 in Stockholm, Sweden. The house doesn't have fibre internet installed and instead uses the old TV-cable (coax) in the ground for networking. The area is "K-märkt" (rough translation from Cambridge Dictionary: "to designate as a cultural heritage site that warrants special protection and preservation"). This means that we won't be able to install fiber/newer internet cables in the near future, and I'm stuck with paying $30 USD per month for 100 Mbit/s and using and old coax router. On the roof of the tower block right next to my house they recently installed brand new 5G antennas, which means I get about 600 Mbit/s over cellular when using my phone... We are 4 people in my household, each with their own phone, tablet and computer, no one is gaming but we stream a lot of 4K videos/movies.
  4. I was browsing the WI-FI alliance website, saw that they keep a public database of WI-FI certified things. Thought, they have a category for "Buildings", WTF is that. Only 1 result. It's called CAPXS, is Multi-Family and runs Linux Kernel 5.4.3 https://www.wi-fi.org/product-finder-results?sort_by=certified&sort_order=desc&categories=9
  5. I work as a sysadmin for a VR center, and we have 8 Quest 2's connected to PCs via TP-Link AX11000 Wi-Fi. Each PC client has a gigabit connection to the router. The headsets are connected to a 5GHz AP & have a high priority in the access point settings. The whole place works using Virtual Desktop software for wireless VR streaming (native AirLink solution is not suitable for the place because of frequent connection drops). The PCs are equipped with old-school, but still decent hardware (i5-7600 on some machines, Ryzen 7 2700 or Ryzen 5 1600 on some others, and GPUs are ranging from 1080 Tis to 2080 or 2080 Super). Quality settings in VR Desktop were set to Low everywhere, bitrate is 30-40 Mbps everywhere too, refresh rate is set to 72 Hz, Steam VR resolution was set to 70%. The problem is, when 8 people are playing simultaneously (be it Arizona Sunshine, Elven Assassin or Beat Saber – which are not so demanding games), artifacts in the form of choppy / blocky pixels start to appear (I suppose it's because of latency / buffering). When looking to the left / right, big black stripes appear, and after a while stream continues (again, because of latency). Even when less people are playing (2-3 players), the problem persists (which sucks as it ruins the experience). Has anyone encountered such a scenario? Or does anyone have advice on how to organise the network better / change some settings? P.S. I suspect that adding more Wi-Fi routers wouldn't help much, because of so much streaming in the air.
  6. I have two pc's hooked up to a little unmanaged 5 port 1gb switch for file transfers between the two because windows file transfers over wifi are a joke. however the wiring in my house is messed up or something so the ethernet speed between the router and the switch (in the wall wiring, they arent in the same room) is awful, less than 5MB/s but still connects to the internet. file transfers between the pc's still transfers at full gb speeds, but the outside the home ethernet speed is atrocious. Wi-Fi however can reach speeds up to 80MB/s, but when the pc's are connected to both at the same time windows is prioritizing ethernet for general purpose internet browsing and downloads, even tho the speeds are lower. Is it possible to set windows to only use ethernet for windows smb/pc to pc file transfer and nothing else?
  7. My Wi-Fi keeps telling me to log in, and when I try to, it doesn't work. I've tried restarting the router/modem, and last time, it worked for about 10 seconds. I've tried everything I can think of.
  8. Hello everyone, This issue I am having is driving me insane. My Wi-Fi has been going out. It has been doing this for about a week. I believe it started when I updated to Windows 11. The troubleshooting things I have done. 1. When Wi-Fi goes out on my laptop, my phone wifi still works. Doesn't seem to be a modem issue. 2. I have a USB NIC card too as a backup. I plugged it in, thinking that the NIC on the motherboard was going bad, and nope, same issue with the USB nic card. 3. If it's not the NICs, or the modem, I think it's the OS. I reformated my computer to Windows 11. The same issue, WI-Fi still goes out. 4. I thought, It must be Windows 11. I installed Windows 10 OS build 19045.2965. I still have the same problem. Wi-Fi still goes out. What is interesting is that when I restart my computer everything works fine for about 10mins. I think maybe the Windows 10 OS build is high, closer to windows 11 and something is going on there, I am thinking of reformatting again but with a lower build. But I am not sure if that will fix anything. I already reinstalled everything on this build.
  9. Bought a new laptop last month, Lenovo Ideapad Flex 5. Can't seem to get stable ping on it. Changed router yesterday and the problem still persists. Updated driver, changed dns, still same issue. Heres a ping test on the same wi-fi, same distance, same time, and nothing disrupting the connection. My laptop: Other laptop: Can't seem to figure out what's happening, help
  10. Hey, So I'm currently having random wireless speed (more like slow...) issues. Up until last week, my wireless speeds were at about 50/30Mbps (Down/Up) Then out of the blue Sunday night (October 3rd, but after midnight, so technically Monday) my wireless went to 1Mbps and couldn't even watch Netflix. During the day I didn't have much issues again and didn't test my speeds. it was late and I thought the ISP was doing maintenance or something. Monday night, around the same time, 1Mbps again. then Tuesday it happened at a earlier time, 19:00. and then Wednesday again! I was done and dragged a patch cable through the house... about 100/30 (that's higher then the advertised speed we pay for xD) Then Friday I didn't really have internet all day. So i changed out the Acces Point with another Router. this seemed to help, but didn't really I'm afraid. So my situation is this: Internet comes in over COAXIAL, the ISP's modem is in bridge and is connected to an Archer C7, which has about 10 network cables attached (with the help of a 8 port gigabit switch) and one of them is a Router that is configured as Acces Point. I'm connected (over Wi-Fi) from my room (which is a standalone structure) to the AP. Currently this are my network speeds; While connected to the 2.4GHz band While connected to the 5GHz Band While connected to the AP via UTP As you can see, upload is fine (Except for the 5GHz band, It's probably to much wall) but the Download is terrible... I don't know why because 2 weeks ago i had 50Mbps and I didn't change anything! I'm frustrated and have no clue, I'd love to hear what anyone else is thinking.
  11. Hi Everyone, Wanting to get some advice for a router specifically for Oculus Air Link. I currently have a nighthawk X6S AC4000 router, but it's in the room next to my PC, and can't be moved. Latency and general stability of oculus air link is a bit rubbish. Was looking at maybe getting a dedicated router and use it as a Wi-Fi 6 AP. Unsure whether anyone's had experience of this setup, and/or can recommend a good router for it. Looking at the TP-LINK AX1500, seems to be one of the cheapest WiFi 6 capable ones. Thanks!
  12. So ever since I moved into my new room my internet on my pc has been terrible averaging around 100ms+ on Valorant. This is with ethernet but when I use my Wi-Fi card it gets a bit better but has times where is spikes massively. Not too long after the Wi-Fi on my pc became must worse not being able to stay in games or connect to games or discord. I've ran Anti-virus software to check and it says nothing has been found. Now my internet has fully stopped working on my pc even though my everything else in my house and room work perfectly fine with Wi-Fi. I even got a new TP-Link which didn't do anything nor did I get any Wi-Fi connection with it. The TP-Link shows up as unknown device under ethernet. Please help.
  13. Hello, I want to get a PCIe Card with at least Wi-Fi 6 for my desktop. I am currently between the following 2 1st https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B08P555HVL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A192LWQ3S1ZXZH&psc=1 2nd https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07YVNM1WX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&psc=1 My 3rd option could be the https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GC-WBAX210-rev-10#kf but they do not deliver to my country!!! I would like to have your opinion and potential recommendations!!!. Note: I live in Cyprus so I can order from Amazon Germany or UK most likely with delivery to my address
  14. I am finally going to get fibers! This calls for an update of my network equipment. What would be ideal: DD-WRT/OpenWRT/Tomato support, or a good control panel - I am interested in QoS, some nice stats Wi-Fi range - current Tenda AC11 is doing okay, the signal has to go a single storey up and down, but I can just add an access point if it's necessary ability to handle 20-30 clients, about 10 connections from things that actually do something. I plan to connect 2 PCs using RJ-45, that's the reason why I'm writing here, I wasn't able to find a 2.5 Gbit/s compatible router yet. Everything stops at 1gbit and while that's the offered Internet speed, both PCs are 2.5 capable and we do transfer files between them. Did any of you look into this subject? The limit would be around $400 for a device or two combined, cables and other stuff I can buy and install separately.
  15. My wireless connection driver keep failing after a while I tried to fixed it multiple times but it always goes back to being a problem It's display as if the wifi / Bluetooth recieving device isn't connected to my laptop whereas its built-in also idk if its related, but my logitech g601 keep resetting itself and set its dpi back to 800 every once in a while (The Wi-Fi Driver) (when this one appear, the bluetooth driver will be hidden as if its not even connected) For the Unknown USB Device Device Instance path: USB\VID_0000&PID_0002\5&1BDE3AAF&0&14 Class Guid: {36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000} BIOS device name: \_SB.PCI0.XHC.RHUB.HS14 Bus type Guid: {9d7debbc-c85d-11d1-9eb4-006008c3a19a} Device stack: \Driver\ACPI AND \Driver\USBHUB3 Driver key: {36fc9e60-c465-11cf-8056-444553540000}\0008 Driver problem description: A request for the USB device descriptor failed. Location information: Port_#0014.Hub_#0001 Location paths: ACPI(_SB_)#ACPI(PCI0)#ACPI(XHC_)#ACPI(RHUB)#ACPI(HS14) Device status: Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) A request for the USB device descriptor failed. For the Intel(R) Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz Device status: This device cannot start. (Code 10) {Operation Failed} The requested operation was unsuccessful. For the Intel(R) Wireless Bluetooth(R) Device status: Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer. (Code 45) To fix this problem, reconnect this hardware device to the computer. Location information: Port_#0014.Hub_#0001
  16. Hey Everyone, I love my MacBook Pro 2017 - specs in my signature (since its part of the issue, it is the version with just 2 USB-C Ports), although I wouldn't mind one with higher specs - but that's a different discussion for another time. Brief Description of issue: Basically, I'm running into an issue where my MacBook is losing internet Wi-Fi connectivity when I use a dongle or a USB-C to A adapter. I think know what's causing it - according to other users on the internet, its due to the shielding (or lack there off) in the adapters. Its causing the signal to either short or block or something. Now, this is annoying for many reasons - most notably, the lack of Wi-Fi, but more so that due to the lack of storage on my machine (only 128GB SSD) I basically have to use external storage, and I also like to use my MacBook on my monitor while I'm at a desk - for that odd occasion for when I decide to use OS X. As such, I need the extra ports provided either by a dongle or a dock. Main Question: Can anyone recommend a good, fairly cost effective dock that can provide multiple USB-A Ports (preferably at USB 3.0 Speeds for storage purposes), at least 1 HDMI output, and possibly an ethernet port. But most importantly, they know or at least can confirm that they do not cause any signal issues with the MacBook Pro. I don't use Thunderbolt, so if possible - I want to avoid getting a Thunderbolt Dock as it would basically just end up being used as a glorified USB-C Hub. My budget is around the £20-£30 mark. I don't really want to spend more, but if I have to - then I will. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and sorry for making you read a wall of text - but I though it'd be best to at least explain the problem.
  17. So this is a super odd problem that I cant find anything about, or figure out how to fix. I put a TLDR, but have a full story for information. TLDR: Only my phone wont show any image or video data from most apps (twitter, youtube, ads from google, the google play store, etc.) While im connected to wi-fi. Text in thoese apps, and searching/browsing for websites works, but apps dont. So the other week there was a large outage on the East cost with verizon. Network was down for about 2/3hrs. Since then, any hard wire works, and my router shows that its working correcltly, other phone (roomates are on iphone) work fine, but my phone connects to the router, allows me to use browser and search the internet, but apps like twitter, amazon, any ads, or anything on the google play store wont load. Text from twitter does, and new tweest show up, but no images or icons work. I have tried turing it off and on again, ive tried turing off ipv6 and back ok, ive tried turing off the 2.5ghz and the 5ghz 2nd channel and to no avail. My phone shows that im conencted, and does work in a web browser, but it get any apps to work properly I have to dis connect from my wi-fi. Ive tried contacting Verizon, but they say its a phone issue, Ive tried contacting samsung and At&t (phone carier) and they dont see a problem with the phoone. Ive tried googling the problem, and all of the apps say, try clearing cahce/data of the app also dont work. Ive Forgotten the network and reconected on new IP thinking maybe it was an Ip conflict, still didnt work. Phone: Samsun S20 Ultra+ Cell Provider: AT&T Internet Provider: Verizon Router: Verizon provided Model G3100 If you have any questions or need any other info please let me know. Thanks, Steven Costello
  18. I recently came back to my parents and noticed their wifi is absolute crap, so I decided I should do something about that. The house is a single floor but it has kind of a long shape, so a single access point is always gonna be trouble. What I'm thinking of is a 2 access point setup with wired connections to both access points. It doesn't have to be very fast. Just reliable. My first idea was just adding another router and setting it up as an access point but I'm afraid this is gonna be a bit flaky. I would also like the network to look like a single network for simplicity. Does anyone have suggestions for affordable multi-point setups? I'm in the Netherlands if that matters.
  19. SOLVED: The faulty Wi-Fi card was causing the issue. Got new card and had no issues. Hello there, I have just built a new pc and run into a very weird issue. I have Wi-Fi/Bluetooth extension card in PCIEx1 slot. Anytime GPU goes under load gaming/stress test (Total War: Warhammer/AMD Adrenalin) my PC loses Wi-Fi connection and can't find any networks, Bluetooth is working as usual. The issue still persists after closing the game/stress test and only restarting PC restores the connection (sometimes with extra restarts, windows troubleshooting), other devices connected to the same network have no issues. Things I've tried so far: Re-installing latest Wi-Fi drivers - 22.150.0 for Intel Wireless adapter Installing Wi-Fi card into the PCIEx1 slot above (closer to GPU) - that made it worse, couldn't find any network even after restarting. Updating BIOS to the latest version - 2803 Updating GPU drivers - 22.6.1 Disabling Bluetooth on extension card Disabling "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" Disabling "Ultra High Band (6GHz)" Lowering transmitting power from Highest to Medium-High Setting Channel Width for 2.4GHz - from auto - to 20MHz Setting Channel Width for 5GHz - from auto - to 20MHz Setting Channel Width for 6GHz - from auto - to 20MHzo Changing HDMI/DP cables Disabling "Radeon Chill" System: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5600X CPU cooler: DeepCool K400 MB: ASUS B550-A (BIOS: 2803) SSD: WD_BLACK 1TB SN750 SE NVMe Memory: TeamGroup DDR4 2x8GB - 3200MHz - installed in 2nd and 4th slot GPU: PowerColor - Red Devil AMD Radeon RX6700 XT PSU: EVGA Supernova G+ 750W gold Wi-Fi card: Fenvi FV-AXE3000 AX210NGW PCI-E - based on Intel(R) Wi-Fi 6E AX210 160MHz - installed in the 3rd PCIEx1 slot, at the very bottom of the motherboard Case: 4000D Airflow Windows 10 x64 v.21H2 No OC - just DOCP to enable 3200MHz PC is 3 days old and stable so far, no crashes/freezes/lags.Temps are stable CPU: <70C, GPU <78C during stress tests. Router: Netgear Nighthawk R6700 - AC1750 - is in another room I am really at a loss here and would greatly appreciate any help and recommendations. Please let me know if there is any additional info will be helpful.
  20. Hi guys, I need a new Wi-Fi 6 or 6E router my budget is 100 USD per router, I would like a multi-router system. Thanks
  21. I need this feature, but my computer doesn't have it (missing wi-fi feature). I heard that all Wi-Fi cards support it, but not all adapters do. Can I download a driver or adapter that supports it? If so, where?
  22. You used to be able to select one network you were using and share that connection to another computer, E.G. laptop on Wi-Fi giving a desktop plugged into it's ethernet port access to the network, in Windows 7 but it seems in Windows 11 this is no longer doable. According to Microsoft I SHOULD be able to go to Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network Connections but that's not even possible now, I have to go Control Panel > Network and Internet > Network and Sharing Center then click "Change adapter settings" and it opens up a new window which has the correct path. From there I'm supposed to be able to right click the connection I wish to share, select "Properties" from the dropdown menu, switch to the "Sharing" tab, tick off the box for "Allow other network users to connect through this computer's internet connection" and after that make a selection from a dropdown that will appear. Problem is the dropdown DOSN'T appear and an internet search for the issue pointed me to the Microsoft forms in which every single person having this issue is running Windows 10 or 11. The response everyone gets is the same set of copied and pasted instructions that worked once upon a time for Windows 7 that aren't correct anymore and then when the OP says that they did that and the dropdown doesn't appear the mods point them to official Microsoft documentation that's either unrelated or EXACTLY what they just posted as an answer then usually lock the thread. I tried following various things people suggested in threads including enabling the sharing serves by default from the Computer Management window, trying to force it to do what I want via Command Prompt or PowerShell, and bridging my ethernet interface and Wi-Fi together under Network Connections but have had no success. Either I'm grossly misremembering what network sharing was and how it worked, thinking of a different OS, or Microsoft has managed to break, change, or remove the feature or parts of it without updating any documentation or making the higherups on their forms aware. How the hell can I share my Wi-Fi connection from my Windows 11 PC to the Ubuntu Server box I'm setting up via my Windows 11 system's Ethernet port?
  23. Hello everybody, I will try to remain brief: I moved in to a new rented apartment that has internet/wi-fi - a fast one with 1 Gbps. My laptop refuses to work properly on this network. It keeps dropping the network, disconnects and does all kinds of errors all the time quite randomly and with varying intensity making it an extremely weird and annoying situation. Sometimes it works normally for hours with no issues. Sometimes it disconnects and reconnects in every minute. The network drops for a few seconds then it reconnects, only rarely does it stay offline for more than 20-30 seconds. Sometimes it says that it's connected to the wi-fi but it doesn't detect internet. Sometimes it completely loses the wi-fi and I can't even see it in the internet settings among the available networks. If I use the Windows network troubleshooter it always detects a different problem, then fixes it - only to have it return in a minute. The most common errors it detects are related to not having valid IP configuration or something DNS related. Sometimes it says that I'm just not connected to any networks. Sometimes when it works, during browsing it randomly refuses to load a page with a variety of errors: ERR_NETWORK_CHANGED, ERR_CONNECTION_TIMED_OUT, ERR_CONNECTION_RESET. The internet download speed is quite slow 30-50 Mbps. The weird stuff: On this same wi-fi network my own cellphone is working perfectly without any problems and with high speeds. On this same wi-fi network my friends' cellphones and laptops are working perfectly without any problems and with high speeds. My laptop works perfectly on any other wi-fi network (at my parents' house, at friends' places, on public networks and on my phone's hotspot). So for me it seems like that for some whatever reason my laptop refuses to function on this one specific network connetion whilst it it works well on any other and the same network connection doesn't cause any problems to other devices. Obviously this makes any browsing or streaming extremely annoying and online gaming is impossible. What I've done so far: Countless reboots and power-downs both on my laptop and on the internet modem. DNS cache flushes Release and renew IP address Change network adapter priority Complete reset of Network and Internet Settings Buying a new wireless network card (the old was slow AF anyways) - didn't help Hours of Google searches - I'm a complete nincompoop when it comes to networking My laptop: ASUS X451U OS: Win 10 Pro - 22H2 (Build 19045.2311) Wi-Fi card: Realtek 8821AE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCI-E NIC Any ides what causes this problem? What other info do I need to share to better understand the problem? Thank you for your help! Cheers, specialist
  24. My onboard (Gigabyte Aourus Pro Wi-Fi X570) Intel ax200 WiFi chip in windows 10 won't work and it shows error 10. Problem appeared after I've plugged Asus router via Lan port. Currently I can't work on ethernet due to renovation at my home and I need internet. So far for troubleshooting I tried: Resetting network cards settings. Removing all virtual cards from VPN. Disabling and reenabling device in device manager. Downgrading driver one major version. I've changed power plan for chip form automatic power saving mode to none. Wiping out all driver data and installing drivers fresh. Draining board power via power button. That's all troubleshooting steps that I've found on Internet. There is one last step that I'd like to avoid - it's reinstallation of windows. I need this pc up and running for work tomorrow and setting up all required software for work takes a while. Anyone have any advice or I'm left with reinstalling windows? Oh and on Linux system WiFi work flawlessly
  25. I'm trying to install proxmox via Wi-Fi instead of ethernet on my Laptop, however I'm having trouble finding good documentation on the subject. I cannot connect to ethernet and I must use Wi-Fi for this solution. I was wondering if you guys have any tips regarding how to install it, or the commands needed to install. Thank you PROXMOX Version: 7.3
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