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Ok so i have a WD blue SA510 2.5 inch sata ssd. It was being used as a boot drive for an old office hp workstation that i had refurbished and it did this for a little over a year, until it just stopped working, i took the drive out and plugged it into my laptop using one of those usb 3 to sata adapters and it shows up as not initialised. I'm considering using Disk Drill to try to look into the drive as i only really need one important excel sheet. The rest of the stuff would be good but not really needed. Any advice? original thread which died and I don’t understand: could use some help
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Hello community. A year ago I bought Ultrastar 20 TB - had no problems with it. So recently, just few weeks ago, I purchased another one - same Ultrastar 20 TB. But this new one driving me crazy cause it has this permanent vibration. And because of this vibration it is impossible to keep it in the case - it makes all kinda crazy sounds. I made a few videos for you to check. I purposely did not attach the data cable to it, only the power cable. I also recorded my previous 20 TB - to show that it does not vibrate as much as this one. Besides these two I have 18 TB, 16 TB also Ulstrastar HDD's and none of them have such vibration. On this video I recorded just the new one. It's out of the case, inside the case it's much worse. BTW - the read/write sounds that you will hear on the video are from the other drives that I have, I am totally used to that sounds, but this buzzing sound from vibration drives me crazy. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kf_JmPzGREUXYT84p8RaeYmEAkWLHWAe/view And on the second video I recorded my new 20 TB vs my last year 20 TB - to show that the other does not make that vibration and sound. Both of them are disconnected from data cable. When I touch the older one drive - I can feel slight vibration too, but it's so small, that it does not cause any strange sounds. Same goes to all the rest of my HDD's. But this new one - vibrates like crazy. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KSOvGMKpYovGmHXTlLw2ixm3QMJjb3pj/view And in this video how it sounds when it's installed in the case = / https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BgKgQdnN9fgnEG35oLUGxUJD-71j_bxu/view So right now just put it outside of the PC case, on a pillow, so at least the loud buzzing went away, but the deep one is still there. So, maybe someone of you encountered the same problem? Any advise what to do here? I contacted WD support, but right now they did not answered much, just send me first "general" answer - read this article, read that article. What do you think are my changes for a RMA? Cause they might answer smth like - "Oh, well, it's HDD, it has moving parts, it's expected, SMART test passed(BTW I did it, it does pass) - so nothing we can do, just live with it." And I will loose few months/weeks for RMA.
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I have an empty WD My Book Duo with USB-C connection (the newest one), that only accepts WD RED harddrives (for some people also green). I want to use it with my left over seagate baracuda, which is not possible, because it won‘t be mounted and the WD utilities software tells me the drive is not supported. I found tutorials on how to deactivate this check for wd drives with the wd my book (not the duo), which is pretty easy. Just remove a connection to a winbond chip on the board. The WD My Book Duo is more complicated, there are multiple of these winbond chips. There are multiple differences between the My Book (referred to as MB from now on) and My Book Duo (referred to as MBD from now on), that probably cause this. 1. The MBD has to control it‘s RAID configuration 2.The MBD has to control a Fan And older forum posts didn‘t get the wanted results when disconnecting these. One said that disconnecting the power to one of those chips tampered with the fan. My unprofessional guess is that one of those 3 winbond chips controls the fan, one checks for supported drives and one might handle the RAID config. I have 2 main issues. 1. While I can dissassemble the WD My Book Duo, I can‘t figure out how to get to the board itself without having things in the way. And I can‘t get it out of the case. 2. I have no idea which chips to alter to deactivate the check for wd drives and maybe even disable the hardware encryption (since this is tied to the device). Does anyone here have any experience with this case or the expertise and access to tinker with one of these? (Or help me tinker with mine) Please send me any questions or recommendations about this post, I am new to this forum and might have made some mistakes or left something out. I know my way around tech, but not to that degree and having complete acess to the board would make it a lot easiert to find the purpose of each chip. Board of a MBD Board of a MB, chip in question is to the left of the pink hole in the board P.S: these empty enclosures are available for dirt cheap because you can harvest insanely cheap WD Red Drives out of these compared to buying those REDs directly. And now they a practicly e-waste. I think it‘s not a big enough case for LTT, but hoping we‘ll find a way.
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I was wondering if someone could explain why the files I convert from a CD to the network drive (a WD my cloud home I'm using for a Plex server) is not showing up on the home.mycloud.com browser where plex is running from? shouldn't it just automatically update? I have to drag new media over every time I got a new file I want on Plex.
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Hi Guys, Long time lurker, first time poster. I recently got a new 16TB Enterprise drive for my home server, but it's... really loud. like, you can hear it reading/writing from across the room and it is often louder than the TV. There's an unusual grinding noise that seems to start really loudly when its reading or writing. I've never had an enterprise, HAMR or multi-platter drive before though, so maybe it is normal and I need to get used to it? EDIT: It's a WD Ultrastar HC550 P/N 0F38462 I've contacted WD support and their chat support is unable to listen to it, and I purchased the drive through Scan.co.uk who have asked me to run crystaldisk info, seatools and send thjem the results, they're all normal because the drive hasn't overheated or been dropped. It didn't seem to complete the seatools long self test? it got to 10% after 15 minutes and then sat there for over an hour while I watched Multiverse Of Madness. Scan raised an RMA but didn't confirm if they think it's faulty, so they may just "test" the drive and ship it back to me. I've attached some audio and a video of the drive. I think it's way more than just normal operation, but I thought I'd get a second opinion before I pay an extra £25 for WD's advanced RMA. Thanks for your help, Burns Ultrastar during testing.m4a 20230511_094153.mp4
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I am unable to recover my files from my old WD My Cloud 2TB NAS. I removed the drive from its case and installed it in my PC. I installed two different software's to read Linux extensions but none worked. (FTK, Linux for windows) I do see the drive in disk manager but it doesn't show any information. I have enabled SVM in Bios and installed Ubuntu via WSL in Powershell. I used Windows PowerShell to identify the drive which it did. I then attempted to mount the drive and I get an error code. \.\PHYSICALDRIVE2 WDC WD30EFRX-68AX9N0 0 WDC WD30EFRX-68AX9N0 \.\PHYSICALDRIVE1 WDC WD20EZRX-00D8PB0 1 2000396321280 WDC WD20EZRX-00D8PB0 \.\PHYSICALDRIVE0 WDC WD40EZAZ-00SF3B0 1 4000784417280 WDC WD40EZAZ-00SF3B0 \.\PHYSICALDRIVE3 Lexar SSD NM610PRO 1TB 3 1000202273280 Lexar SSD NM610PRO 1TB PS C:\WINDOWS\system32> wsl --mount \.\PHYSICALDRIVE2 --bare The request could not be performed because of an I/O device error. Error code: Wsl/Service/AttachDisk/0x8007045d I am at a complete loss. AMD 5600x Gigabyte B450M DS3H Wifi Bios F65a Nvidia GeForce 1660 Super 32gb DDR4 Ram Lexar 1TB SSD NM610 Pro -
Hi all, I am looking to upgrade the storage in my 2012 Mac mini. I am going to be using it in a strange project that I am working on and I need them to be relatively reliable. I only need 500GB drives. I was thinking about getting the Western Digital SA500 but they are relatively expensive for only 500GB drives. I was also looking at the Crucial MX500 but people have been reporting a high failure rate of the drives prematurely. These machines will be spending a relatively long amount of time on each day, but will shut down each night. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks
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Hi, I use 2 cables to connect my old hdd. I’ve bought the new one and it doesn’t have the split between those two ports, so I can’t connect it. Any ideas on how to solve it? is there an adapter to fix this? thank you for any advice I’m also attaching a picture of both my old and new hdd to explain. last picture is of my old hdd
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WD's MyCloud Web services, that are used to access, setup and manage their local MyCloud NAS Devices, have gone offline, leaving Customers locked out of accessing the Data stored on their local NAS Drives. Summary WD's MyCloud, local NAS Devices, where customers can store Data on their local network connected NAS Devices, seem to be fully reliant on cloud services to function at all. As of the time of writing, the WD MyCloud Web services have been down for over 12 hours, leaving customers unable to access data on their local devices. Looking at the Service Status of the outage, just about all functionality of these devices is completely broken - status.mycloud.com While customers can configure to enable access to the device locally on the network without the use of the mycloud cloud utility. THIS FUNCTION CAN ONLY BE ENABLED VIA THE CLOUD UTILITY!!!! So, for those of us who didn't foresee such issues, and just expected that we would be able to access out data locally if something ever happened to the cloud service! We are all completely out of luck! One Customer of the WD forum wrote; My thoughts Given how completely the functionality of these devices has been broken after WD's cloud services went offline, it certainly does make me worry about how much our devices are reliant on cloud-based services, and when these services go down or when they are no longer supported, what happens to all our own personal data. Especially considering this is a device that is installed and connected on the customers local network, such reliance on cloud services is almost like planned obsolescence getting backed into the device from the beginning, Sources https://status.mycloud.com/os4 https://community.wd.com/t/my-cloud-home-service-outage-02-apri-2023/282845 https://support-en.wd.com/app/answers/detailweb/a_id/34991/~/how-to-enable-local-network-access-to-data-on-my-cloud-home-using-the-dashboard -
Hey everyone, First of all I apologize if I'm writing in the wrong section I am very new to the forum. Also please excuse my English as it is not my first language So I bought a WD SN850 SSD, since I happened to catch it at a reasonable price. The thing is advertised as being able to push 7000Mb/s read and 5300Mb/s write. That being said, I've ran Crystal Disk Mark a couple of times on it, and it is only able to reach 3500/2500. I have one other SSD from WD that is performing exactly like expected. One thing that I have to note is that the WD SN850 is Gen 4.0, but my motherboard (Asus Maximus XI) has Gen3.0 x4 Nvme slots. I was pretty silly to buy the ssd before reading the manual, but from what I understand Gen3 should be able to push 15Gb/s, so why is my SSD pushing half of what's advertised? Could it be faulty? Is it really because of Gen4.0 vs Gen3.0 slot? Or am I missing something? (probably the most likely possibility) Just to tick some boxes: BIOS is updated Windows is updated SSD firmware is updated WD dashboard says drive health is normal (100%) WD S.M.A.R.T extended diagnostic found no problems with the drive Anyways, thanks in advance for any help, be sure to ask me for more specs if you think the problem might be coming from somewhere else. And again sorry for my likely ineptitude.
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I'm planning to get a new hard drive to replace my 160GB WD Blue. Should I get a Seagate Barracuda or WD Blue? Both are 1TB in size. Western Digital https://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-1TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=382KTUT9IQQNX&dchild=1&keywords=western+digital+blue&qid=1613735205&sprefix=western+digital+b%2Caps%2C412&sr=8-1 Seagate https://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-barracuda-1tb-internal-sata-hard-drive-for-desktops/6164930.p?skuId=6164930 -
I'm having a random problem with the computer not posting with the CPU debug LED lit after a forced restart it posts but now I'm getting a message that says "Memory over clock has failed" but I only turned on XMP I have the memory voltage set to 1.35V I had to manually set the timings of the memory kit to match what they are rated for but it seems like 3200MHz and even 3133MHz is a no go it's stable with memtest86 at 3200 but still won't post at random with the CPU debug LED on and there's only one short beep once the CPU debug LEDs stays on but other times there no beeps at all and no picture on the screen I'm lost it can't be the memory if it passes memtest86 right? I ran a full system stress test for over two hours and it always passes even with the memory at 3200MHz I never had a computer fight me this much before. I could put the old memory kit back in but even that kit won't run stable at rated speed no matter what motherboard is used. I have already replaced all the hardware in my computer besides the CPU and I was having random memory related problems with this CPU in my other system. Once the computer's booted into Windows it works fine it's only that random time once the computers been off all night could I have a CPU problem? The memory kit is supported by my motherboard I checked on the MSI's site for my board. Spec's: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Liquid Cooler Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Western Digital Blue 4TB hard drive(upgrading to 8TB) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Windows 10 Pro Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: Phanteks SK120 DRGB PWM FAN X4 -
Hello, I was kindly offered a WD My Book 28TB DUO. The 2 drives come in raid 0, 512 sector size, NTFS GPT by default. Don't understand much about storage but as far as I know it would be better to have it with 4096 sector size correct? However, if I try to format it as NTFS it goes from 8192 bytes to to 2048K only. The option for 4096K only shows up under exFAT. Alternatively I've read I can use WD program to format as compatible mode for MBR 4096K. Basically, usage will be just having it plugged to my pc as mass storage. Somewhat often I might plug it to TV. Can someone enlighten me on the best option and how to format the drive as such? Thank you in advance for all the help. Regards,
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hello my fellow! thinking to buy the latest model for being most reliable..... i m so confused right now.. like ive read tat WD black and seagates barracuda Pro are most relaible consumer hard drives.. yes i dont want it to have bad sectors please.....so i found these models and they are like launched at 2013 ..wtf?? like arent they makin new models of wd black now?? ( see the screenshots thanks).. so all i mean is ,do u guys know any newer models of wd black.. im lookinj for a lil budget friendly too... that wd black 2tb is 80 usd... something like that.. i was gonna get barracuda 2tb ( not pro).. but they said its not reliable so:(....... and also which one is most relaible ... wd black 2tb ... or seagate barracuda pro 2tb(idk model yet. but newwer model one)
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To start, I know there have been some threads online addressing these issues but none of the fixes listed in any of them have helped at all. I recently got a 1TB WD Black SN750 to replace my A2000 as boot drive and have encountered two separate issues preventing me from doing so. Problem 1: Drive cannot be cloned. Neither Acronis nor Macrium were able to, with the issue being "bytes/sector" differences (4096 on SN750 and 512 otherwise). Reformatting the drive does not give the 512 option. Backing up image of original and restoring to new one wasn't possible due to same reason. Apparently this shouldnt be a problem (as its supposed to emulate 512 anyway) but I have not found any fix. Cloning the A2000 to a sata SSD (MX500) worked fine. Backup plan: fresh install windows and just copy the files over... Problem 2: installing windows (via USB drive) leads to infinite loop of windows setup. Start > BIOS > Boot > Windows setup +installation > automatic restart to finish > repeat. Removing USB during restart countdown gave the "please insert boot device" prompt. Manually booting from the new drive from bios made no difference. Reinstalling the old drive and checking the files in the SN750 shows that windows did install. All other drives removed except SN750 during attempted install. Bios has been reset and XMP disabled. SN750 has been tested in both nvme slots with no change, A2000 works fine in both. Windows install has been attempted with different download files. Have reformatted the drive and tried using both MBR and GPT with no difference. Disabling CSM caused SN750 to not show as a bootable device (but was still detected by bios as it could be found in a separate setting I can't remember) or at all if the USB was removed. This is all after Windows had apparently installed. I honestly don't know what could be happening here and I'm at my wit's end. Is it the drive's problem? Is it the mobos? Is windows crap? Or is there some obvious solution I'm missing? It looks like other people have had a similar issue with the second problem but as said before no suggestions have worked. Installing windows wasn't any issue at all the last time I tried at the start of this year, with all the same hardware. Otherwise the drive seems to work fine. Can copy to and access files on it no problem, and is detected in windows as normal. I just want to switch boot drives. A solution to either issue would be extremely appreciated. Specs: R5 5600X Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro AX bios: F13g Kingston A2000 500GB Powercolour Red Devil RX 6800 XT G.Skill 16GB 4400 C19 (stock) Corsair SF750 -
Can anyone tell me which HDD is more reliable among these. There won't be any OS in it. Just some games, videos and docs. Seagate Barracuda (ST1000DM010) 7200RPM 1TB ($44) Western Digital Blue (WD10EZEX) 7200RPM 1TB ($42) Western Digital Blue (WD20EZRZ) 5400RPM 2TB ($61) Toshiba P300 (HDWD110UZSVA) 7200RPM 1TB ($43) Toshiba P300 (HDWD120UZSVA) 7200RPM 2TB ($66)
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Hello, i have heard a lot of drives in my life, but this sound is something new for me. HDD will start thumping when idle. It will continue the sound for few minutes. Its pretty random. Sound clip is attached below. Ignore the background noise, the HDD is absolutely silent, except of the thumpy sound, every 5 seconds or so. Is this Preventive Wear Leveling (PWL) "feature" i read about? There arent many sound samples online to listen to and my other HDDs are older. Thanks. hdd zvuk.mp3
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Hello, so my bro got me a 2tb WD purple for my pc since i needed more storage, and I kept reading about it being for surveillance and all and idk anything about that so if anyone can confirm or explain whether I can use it for gaming and editing and design and all or not and would there be any problems. Because I kind of cannot return it THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
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Hii guys.. I just put a Western Digital Black SN750 in my gaming laptop (Hp Omen 15 en0013ax) as a working drive when I'm playing games,editing photos and video, the problem is all the reviews on the online shop telling the read and write speed reach 3000+ MB/s, and I'm not getting the speeds like others. It's still the same speed as my old ssd (which around 1600-1800 Mb/s). Am I doing something wrong? Drive is installed in the NVMe slot of my laptop. It should be getting read speeds of around 3000+ MB/s but CrystalDiskMark (version 7-8) is only indicating around 1700-1864 MB/s, not event reach 2k+ MB/s, Is it because WD Black I got defect or Its because my laptop? below is comparison disk C is old SSD and disk D is new Kindly help with this problem, Thanks in advanced
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Hello All. I am currently typing this over Linux running from USB. Long story short, I found my 1-year-old in my BIOS banging away on the keyboard. He was on the EZ RAID tab and it was asking him if he'd like to proceed with wiping everything. I exited without saving changes and was not able to boot to Windows 10. I know it's hard to believe that banging on the keys got him that far, but here we are. Nothing appears to be in RAID. All 3 drives appear intact, and the m.2 (OS) I'm having issues with works fine as far as putting it in an external case and checking it on another machine. Here's a HW list before we proceed: GIGABYTE Z270X-UD3 i7-7700K 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 C16 (4x8GB) WD BLUE SN550 NVMe 1TB (2 other misc drives for game library, raw vid, etc.) I built this PC in early 2018. I upgraded from a 250GB SATA m.2 back in July or August 2021 along with the RAM. In September replaced a noisy AIO with a be quiet! fan cooler. I removed the CPU to clean the paste off. Everything worked fine until this happened. For some reason the m.2 no longer appears in the boot options, and when I go to the NVMe section under the Peripherals tab, nothing shows up. The only place I see the drive in BIOS is in the RAID menu under "Not in RAID" with my other drives. As I mentioned above, I (painstakingly) removed it and checked it on another machine via an external enclosure. Everything is there and the drive checks fine using the WD utility. I tried different things in setup such as changing it to Legacy instead of UEFI, loading defaults, updating BIOS. I used the old SATA m.2 I upgraded from to make a Linux drive in an external enclosure. I used it to check the partitions and it's not there either, although I'm not sure I'm doing that right. I also tried unplugging the other storage. Nothing has worked. Please feel free to correct my terminology. I know enough to build/upgrade a PC, but not enough to do much troubleshooting on my own. I feel like 1 of 2 things happened: 1. the boot sector of the drive is gone/damaged, as I think NVMe has to be tagged by windows or something for it to be visible in BIOS. IDK... That stuff is over my head 2. the m.2 slot is bad If you need more info or pics/screenshots, lmk. TIA, BLaK -
System specs: I've ran my own NAS and NC-server for the past two years now, which is a stock HPE Microserver Gen8 4GB running Ubuntu 18.04. I've always had performance issues with it despite services being optimized for the 4GB RAM, and later found it was related to the HDDs (Main storage was RAID10 composed of two identical 3TB and two 8TB WD Red drives, where each stripe consisted of one 3TB and one 8TB drive), but didn't give it much more thought after all drives passing my health checks. I am now in the process of swapping the two 3TB drives for two new 8TB WD Red Pro-NAS drives. I've done the proper backup procedure with both local and off-site (of course), and I have now placed my two 3TB drives into my desktop computer and striped them using the Windows Disk Management tool. These will be used for local storage, but their current purpose is to hold the data from the server RAID until I've done a fresh setup on the server. Now, during the transfer phase from one of the new 8TB drives to my striped 3TB drives, I noticed that one of the 3TB drives are consistently running at ~92% utilization while the other 3TB drive hits at a comfortable ~30% utilization, despite both drives having the same write speed during the transfer. Now again, all three pairs of HDDs are identical; two (old) 8TB drives (WD80EFAX), two (old) 3TB drives (WD30EFRX), and my two new replacement 8TB drives (WD8003FFBX). The screenshot of the task manager summary shows the new 8TB WD8003FFBX (which is being copied from, after having the data moved from the server to it) as Disk 1 ( F: ), and the two older 3TB WD30EFRX striped drives as Disk 2 & Disk 3 ( G: ) I'm not as experienced with RAID, I've only used the Windows built-in tool, and Linux's mdadm, but I think it would be reasonable to expect two identical striped drives to have the same utilization during the same task.. Any ideas, tips, or explanations would be greatly appreciated. TLDR; Two identical Western Digital drives (WD30EFRX) perform differently in a striped Windows 10 environment.
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So I found this drive very cheap WD Blue SN550 WDS100T2B0C (1 TB ; M.2; PCIe NVMe 3.0 Is it good for 97 euros? Site where I found it: 220.lv (have discount there) Or there are better options? Can't use Amazon or eBay cuz high shipping costs+ taxes in my country. Tnx for help
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Hi, first time posting here. I realise I'm slow to this but I just recently learned that WD bought Sandisk a while back. This got me questioning: why then, is Sandisk still producing SSDs that are directly competing with WD's? Usually, when a bigger competitor buys out its smaller rival, it stops selling competing products cause that's the whole point. As far as I can tell, Sandisk is still producing and selling their own SSDs. What's the business reason for this? Why would you keep selling two similar competing products? I know Sandisk is cheaper but just slightly, so it's not because they're targeting different price points.
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Both are 500 GB. What do you guys think? I think both are pretty similar and P2 is a bit more affordable.
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I am currently looking at Samsung 980 Pro and WD_BLACK SN850 NVMe. https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/980-pro-pcie-4-0-nvme-ssd-1tb-mz-v8p1t0b-am/ https://shop.westerndigital.com/products/internal-drives/wd-black-sn850-nvme-ssd#WDS100T1XHE-00AFY0 I just want to make sure which of these m2 ssd will last long and will not fail after a year of use.
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