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Interesting article, seems that half the brands sell copper rads but deliver brass instead https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report?utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialflow&utm_content=tomsguide&utm_source=facebook.com
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Tech Enthusiasts, I recently stumbled upon a deeply concerning report from Igor’s Lab, which conducted an extensive material test on AIO radiators. The findings are alarming: the Barrow Dabel 28b Slim 120mm radiator, among others, was found to contain significant amounts of lead and other substandard materials. This revelation raises serious health and safety concerns for all of us in the PC building community. The report, titled “The big radiator material test: Between promise, reality and the forbidden - Water Cooling tested more in Detail! | Part 1,” delves into the materials used by six well-known manufacturers, revealing discrepancies between what is advertised and the actual content of these radiators. The investigation was prompted by reports of clogged water cooling components and unexplained corrosion, leading to a thorough analysis of the materials used. From the source: "First of all: There is no copper “H90”. An addition of 10% brass (as in the case of Bykski) is NOT copper, but still an alloy, i.e. brass. Brass CuZN10, to be precise. Incidentally, it is interesting that I measured exactly this value. Just like the brass “H62” (correctly CuZn38) of the pre-chambers, where I then (logically) arrive at 38% zinc content, which corresponds to 62% copper content and which can suddenly be called brass again in marketing." What’s perplexing is the lack of coverage this issue has received from tech YouTubers, who are often at the forefront of discussing tech-related concerns. One must wonder, why is there a silence from tech influencers on such a critical matter? Is it a lack of awareness, or are there other factors influencing the discourse? The role of tech influencers is not only to review and recommend products but also to inform and protect their audience from potential hazards. It’s imperative that we question this gap in communication and encourage a dialogue that could safeguard the health of our community. As we seek answers and accountability, let’s ensure that we’re not only consumers but also informed advocates for safety and transparency in the tech industry. I urge you to read the full report from Igor’s Lab and join me in calling for greater coverage and discussion on this pressing issue Sources https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/
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Summary Igor's Lab tested eight popular water cooling radiators and found that the claims made by manufacturers were incorrect. Quotes My thoughts Disappointing to hear about this from at least EK. In EK's case it seems its a marketing choice on how they represent the material. At this time Igor's Lab seems to be assuming this was not on purpose by any of the manufacturers but I am very interested to see how they respond. Sources https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report (quoted source) https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/8/ (actual Report)
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Built my first rig during lockdown, thanks to the LTT crew and forums for all the knowledge! Haven't stopped building since, the only parts left from the original build are 3 LL fans and 2 sticks of ram. The res, cpu and gpu blocks have the rgb tied to respective temps. Already thinking of ways to clean up the loop and dreaming of hard line copper! TUF b550m 3800x w/ corsair block 32 gb G. Skill trident z rgb @ 3600 mhz EVGA 3080 ti FTW3 w/ alphacool block Corsair hydro xd5 res pump combo 2x xspc ultra thin 240 radiators 1 dracaena 120 radiator 3 corsair LL120 fans 2 noctua slim 120 fans 2x Samsung 980 m.2 1tb,2tb 2x sata ssd 1tb,2tb Anyone thinking of the Thermaltake tower 200 I'm loving mine. Fits matx and you can just fit an ultra thin rad with 15mm fans behind the back panel if you remove the hard drive cage and offset the rad to route the tubes.
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Budget (including currency): AUD$10,000.00 Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming: BG3, Anno, Skyrim Modded, Cities Skylines II, World of Warcraft Other details: Will be playing on 34" Ultrawide, upgrading to 49" OLED Hi all, dipping my toes into this wonderful world again. I am slowly putting together a build for my 2nd custom watercooling loop. Below are my parts list so far: [PCPartPicker Part List] Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor $589.00 @ Centre Com Thermal Compound Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 1 g Thermal Paste $11.00 @ Centre Com Motherboard Gigabyte X670E AORUS PRO X ATX AM5 Motherboard $529.16 @ Amazon Australia Memory Corsair Dominator Titanium 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory $289.00 @ PCCaseGear Storage Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $279.73 @ Amazon Australia Storage Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $279.73 @ Amazon Australia Video Card Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card $2999.00 @ MSY Technology Case Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO XL ATX Full Tower Case - White $389.00 @ Scorptec Power Supply Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $289.00 @ Centre Com Case Fan Corsair iCUE LINK QX140 RGB Starter Kit 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fans 2-Pack $158.41 @ Amazon Australia (3 sets, total 6 Fans) CPU Water Block CORSAIR XC7 RGB Elite LCD CPU Water Block - 480x480 IPS LCD Screen - 31 RGB LEDs - USB-C - Fits Intel® LGA 1700, AMD® AM5 and Older - White $335.00 @ PLE Computers Radiator Corsair Hydro X Series XR5 420 NEO Water Cooling Radiator $139.00 @ PLE Computers (2 Radiators) Distribution Plate EK Quantum Vector2 Master RTX 4090 D-RGB GPU Waterblock - Nickel + Plexi $385.00 @ PC Case Gear Total $7880.34 A few things to note - in no particular order: General color theme will be predominantly white with black accents - would love white rads but I can't seem to find 420 rads in white. I may buy decals and apply visible bits myself if I must Fans are a tossup between QX140s and the LianLi ones. Daisy chainable fans for ease of install and cable management is a must Setup will be 420 at the top, 420 at the bottom and Distro Plate at the back. Side panel to be left empty I am thinking of buying an additional 120mm fan for exhaust GPU brand is mostly from coil whine research. Gigabyte seem to be less prone to coil whine Main monitor is currently a 34" ultrawide, thinking of going into the Samsung 49" OLED in the future so I reckon I will make use of the 4090 Main games are BG3, City Skylines II, Anno Motherboard choice is mainly for the white theme. I dont seem to have much choices here in Australia Havent put fittings on the list, but I have accounted for them. Will be purchasing the main bulky frames first then figure out my loop once I have things visually in front of me Any feedback on this build would be most welcome. PS: Link to my first build - it leaked about 8 months ago, been able to salvage it and running it on air at this stage.
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so... I was checking this video on YouTube and if you watch the video the water gets a pretty good speed when he pours it down the straw because there's almost no resistance in it, so that should mean that if you use that you could get a better flow rate due to the lack of resistance on the tubing and also in theory that could also be a very good solution for permeation and that's always a concern in water-cooling a pc on the long run, can someone correct me if I'm wrong with this or someone has already done before and can share the experience? on the other side it will be amazing doing a full hydrophobic pc for an ltt video if there's a way to make that happen jajajajaja
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Hello I need a little help deciding what to go with building a custom hard line set up. I'm using a new amd am5 chip, the only things I really care about aesthetically is id like to use a reservoir with rgb and maybe use frosted hardline tubing. I'm not interested in a aio I want something that looks really cool. Is there a pc part picker like website I can easily layout everything I'll need to order? Specs Amd Ryzen 9 7900X3D ASUS Prime 650 Plus Thermaltake tower 500
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Hello friends and welcome to this year's first PC mod/build. "Green Prime" is started. It is a modification of the Asus AP201 case with a glass side. In addition to the idea of filling this little one with strong hardware and cooling, the idea is that instead of the current horizontal position of this case, I will make changes so that it stands vertically and give everything my own style and design. Thank you for following my work again, stay tuned! Hardware: Intel i7 13700k Asus Prime AP201 Asus ROG Strix z790i Gaming WiFi Asus ROG Strix RX 6900XT Patriot Viper Extreme 5 2x 16Gb DDR5 8000Mhz Patriot Viper VP4300 2Tb Cooler Master SFX 850w CableMod custom PSU cables EKWB 2x Surface P360 radiators BLACK edition EKWB all LC HDC parts
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Hello Guys, this is gonna be a tough one. I am facing two Problems that are probably connected by the same issue. So lets start with some Info about my System. Asus Z790 Hero, Bios 1501 i9 13900KS, direct die cooled G.Skill TridentZ DDR5 6400 RTX 4090 Strix OC Full Custom Loop 1. Cooler Master HAF 700 Controller in Back of the Case to a internal USB 2.0 onto the Motherboard. 2. Aquacomputer High Flow Next, connected to the other internal USB 2.0 header. Fan Setup Case: 2x200mm Front Fans, 2x140mm Rear Fans -> Haf 700 Hub -> PWM to CPU_FAN Fan Setup Radiators: 8x140mm Fans -> Deepcool Fan Hub (powered by Molex) ->PWM to Chassis_Fan1 Software: CoolerMaster MasterPlus (for Front Display / RGB) SignalRGB for all my RGB obviously Aquasuite to monitor my Water Temp / Flow First Problem: I am running a Custom Loop in my PC in a HAF 700 Case by Cooler Master. Couple Months after use, whenever my PC idles for too long i get some USB Connection issues with my two internally connected Devices. Now, whenever i started to idle my PC (happened only once while gaming), my Aquacomputer Device would just start connecting/disconnecting very fast a couple of times, until the sound stopped and my device was no longer visible. One Time i moved my Mouse after idle and i got an USB Overcurrent Message on Win11 and could only Reboot. First Picture: all normal after Reboot. Second Picture: After USB disconnects. Now, i already checked my Cables to the Haf 700 Controller and the Aquacomputer High Flow Next, and after a reboot it is all connected again with no issues. Normally it wouldn't be a big Problem, but i am using this Device to Monitor my Flow and Water Temperature. Second Problem: My Q-Fan Controls in Bios work for hours at best after reboot, then my Fan Speed just locks to 900RPM on Chassis_Fan1, and 600RPM on CPU_Fan. Sometimes even 300RPM for both. I have no clue which Software meddles with my Fan Speeds or why my Bios does not control the Fans anymore. I did use Fan Xpert 4 by Armoury Crate that never worked / lost control but i got rid of that Software by now. Fans are set to monitor CPU Package Temperature and Auto-Detect for DC or PWM Mode. I need to get these Speeds under Control reliably, otherwise my Water Temp rises to 45°C in Summer without me knowing. Thats why i also use my Alarm that the Aquacomputer HFN has on its firmware. Now to what i already tried: -Updating Bios to Version 1501 -Enabling High Power Energy Profile / disabling USB Suspend -Uninstalling the Cancer Armoury Crate ( with their official uninstaller ) -Disabling Tasks one by one to try and find what takes control of my Fans I cannot use the Fan Control Software on Github, because it sometimes completely freezes my PC when it idles for too long. Don't ask my why, the Problem disappered after i stopped using it. But that shows, there is some major Problem that links my two issues together but i can not find it. This is one of those things you just cannot google. This PC has been built in March by me and was running reliably for a while. Software is pretty clean, only MasterPlus was needed for the Display and Armoury Crate i uninstalled. I dont' know what to do. I need all of you Anthonys out there to find this one
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Hey, so I found a Thermaltake bigwater 780 for approximately 30$ US and I'm thinking about buying it since it is the cheapest option that will get me a pump reservoir and radiator combo with a CPU cooler, but I've read that it mixes metals, and I know that's one of the worst things you can do I'm a watercooling loop but the seller includes EK cryofuel with it which is supposed to stop/prevent corrosion as I've read but I didn't really understand what kind of corrosion it is supposed to prevent since a bunch of places shittalk it because it leaves residue and in some cases corrosion. So tell it to me in the most straightforward way possible, -is EK cryofuel better than distilled water? -how bad of a deal is this? -How likely is it that I'm going to regret buying it? -any other alternatives to cryofuel? -perhaps if there is a way to change the radiator in the bigwater to a copper one? I'm not going to be daily driving this thing most likely, it's just for fun and because I already have a mobo with cooling brackets and I dont yet have a pump or a radiator. Thanks in advance
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Planning to add a second 280mm or 360mm radiator, but my current chassis does not support it. Currently using a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe T.G. with the modular 3.5" and 5.25" bays removed, so the front is completely open. Configuration right now, I have a single EKwb Quantum 360mm (44mm thick) radiator at the top. 2x 140mm intake fans at the front, and 140mm exhaust at the rear. EKwb Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 pump-res combo mounted to the bottom of the chassis. The Phanteks Enthoo Luxe T.G. supports 2x 140mm fans, but DOES NOT support a 280mm at the front, instead only up to 240mm. Given that the pump-res is mounted in front of the GPU + PSU shroud, space is tight. If it fits, it will barely just fit a 44mm thick radiator + 25mm thick fan, before it makes contact with the pump-res. So far, these are my potential candidates, not in any particular order Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2 T.G. Phanteks NV5 It's a shorter case, seeing where to fit the pump-res Lian-Li Lancool III Very mechanically modular chassis, no issues fitting thick radiators at the front Similar concern to the NV5, It's a shorter case, seeing where to fit the pump-res Lian-Li O11 Dynamic EVO Dual chamber chassis, so it's wider...but coming at 285mm, not much wide than the 240 / 245mm vs the Enthoo Pro2 / 5000D (still eats up desk space nonetheless) Corsair 4000D / 5000D Airflow My concerns: How / where to mount the pump-res so it's not in the way Bottom of the chassis, like my current setup? Other side of the front radiator? Elsewhere on the chassis, if it supports it. If I can fit another 44mm thick radiator, great, but I can live with a thinner radiator (i.e. 30mm) Putting my Sapphire NITRO+ under water using a EKwb full cover block, coming in at 285mm (~11.3") length I am open the other options / recommendations.
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Hey all! I had a quick question about efficiency and simplicity, I am currently running an i7 9700k and a 3080 ti vision oc, I am wondering if using an aio 240mm for the cpu and separately running a custom loop 360mm rad, for the gpu would help to ease my intro into watercooling. I dont know if i will run into any problems that I am unaware of, or if it will run smoothly. I am hoping to oc both the cpu and the gpu further. Thanks for any help!
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Hi All I had previously planned a custom build using aluminium extrusions but life got in the way.. I was looking at picking this up again/going for the Lian Li DK-05f but that's still a huge amount for features I don't care about/what I'm getting. I'm in China and found this alternative, it's not as nice but it's also 1/6th the price (1600mm version): https://item.jd.com/10069540491835.html#crumb-wrap Overall it'll do the job I need, but there's one issue, my GPU. The block is enormous, I made the rookie mistake of not checking the dimensions before buying and I can no longer fit the side panel on my O11DXL. I'm fairly certain that it won't fit here (I'll check) so there are 2 options using a PCIE riser. If there's a product that will allow me to put this over the MOBO (maybe using the MOBO standoffs?) this would mean minor alterations to the desk. Cut away the rear left fan mounts (keeping the screw holes) and get someone to fab a bracket to fit there that will hold a PCIE riser Option 1 would be preferable as there's be less cost due to less fab work. Does anyone know of a product that would work here? Many thanks in advance!
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Recently upgraded to a 3080Ti which forced my radiator for my AIO cooler to be mounted to the top of my case (was on the side before). When playing games that load the GPU, the radiator now gets heated up by the hot GPU air. This causes coolant temp to reach 60+C after 30-45 minutes, even with very low CPU load (10% or so). Two 120mm fans pull in fresh air from the front, two 120mm radiator fans on the top act as exhaust. I know the obvious solutions are to get a new case or new CPU cooler, but is there any other step I could take to alleviate the issue without jumping the gun on new parts? Help appreciated
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I am thinking about building my first custom water-cooled PC but I don't know which components are good options/brands that won't cost me an arm and a leg. That's the PC build not including the water cooling components I already have the storage so don't mention it. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WHvxgB I want to water-cool the CPU and GPU and use soft tubing (as it's my first custom loop) and I want to use one 360mm rad if possible as I would like to stay under 500$ for the water-cooling components. edit: I already have fans for the radiator.
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Hi i am planning to water cool my pc with a custom loop but was searching and saw a lot but my question is what are good block for my model of gpu and do I need more (like thermal pads) to water cool my gpu. Any tips and trick are welcome because this is my first time
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Hey everyone, so i'm looking to upgrade my system but i want to reuse parts i've already bought. a Lepah closed loop cpu cooler. I was wondering if i could just add a radiator and or another block to the system using the existing cpu block pump and radiator. I've never heard of it before, what are the pro's and cons. best, GoldBlackKnight
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After a few tests, I found that increasing the RPM of my CPU block made this noise. Can I fix this? I don't really want the hassle of getting a warranty because it will take a month or two. Even a replacement will take a month... I'd rather buy a new one than wait. m2-res_1920p.mp4
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I was wondering if you could install a GPU waterblock on a GPU and then put the fans back on, i really like the look of a base GPU but i want to watercool it without changing the look of it. Thanks!
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Temperature input I'm looking for some input regarding my water-cooling setup. My temps seems to be higher than normal. Here is what I got going: - ASRock x570 Taichi - 5800x: PBO & Curve Opt enabled ( -15 offset) no manual clock boost - Liquid devil 7900xtx (stock settings) - Seasonic 1k watt PSU - Corsair 360mm:30mm rad for top (exhaust) - Corsair 240mm:30mm rad for side (intake) - Corsair XD5 cpu block - Corsair XD5 Pump/res - Lian Li uni fans ×5: 3 for exhaust, 2 for intake - One spare EK Vardar 120 fan for rear exhaust. - enclosed in Hyte Y60 - 2 1440p monitors: 1 27 inch for data and web, 30in for gaming and movies. I'm using CP2077 on ultra settings w ratracing and fsr 2.1 enabled as the "benchmark" I noticed that the GPU runs up to an average of 55c with the hot spot hitting a max of 94c. The CPU is running an average of 67-69C. according to HWinfo the entire system power draw is 600w (610 was the max). While these temps are slightly higher than I'd like I know they are well within the safe range. What concerns me is my water temps which on average hit high 30s low 40s. The highest being almost 45c. My computer is on a desk in a small office (approx 10x12) with AC. The ambient in the room is in the low to mid 20s (69-71f). Is there anything I could do to lower or maintain the water temps better, or is normal for this type of system? I can provide screenshots of the system and HWinfo if needed (when I get home). Thank you
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Hey guys. So I'm looking to get a gtx 1050ti for a project build that will have a full liquid cooling loop. But. I cannot find water block for it... can someone please point me in the right direction?
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Sup... first post. Be gentle ? I got into watercooling quite some time ago. Got my first WCed rig (8800GT SLI) way back in uhm... 2006 and ever since i never had any air cooler on my CPUs / GPUs ? Currently sitting on an i7-2600K (quite OK unit >>5GHz @ 4C/8T ezy pzy<<, got it from an overclocker from XtremeSystems who got it to 5.5GHz on LN2) and a GTX780 both sitting on MSI P67a-GD65 with 8GB RAM and bunch of drives. All in a BitFenix Shinobi XL with Thermochill PA360.3 (any old timer still remembers it and how much cooling potential it has?) and an EK 240 thick radiator (don't remember the exact model), XSPC RASA slapped on CPU and FC EK waterblock on a GPU. Oh... and i still have unused and boxed HW Labs BlackIce SR-1 420 radiator that will be waiting patiently for MiniMe to grow up and get hooked on WCing ? So to the point: I am about to move in into new house i have build over the last 2 years in Poland. It has floor heating on its 230m2 and has one peculiar extra loop - 35m of a floor heating tube with an inlet and outlet under the to-be-build-desk where my PC in my man-cave will be placed ? you know where am i going with this? 1) heat capacity of concrete floor is quite high (thickness in my case varies from 6 to 9cm) and at the same time inertia of heat flow is rather low. In other words: it will heat up slowly and will cool down slowly. 2) floor will never be heated above 28°C so i can assume that's gonna be my max ambient temperature. It is more likely, considering my house is very energy efficient, floor temperature will not pass 25°C. Cooling liquid will always be warmer than that and there will be no situation when loop is being heated by the floor - it will be always other way around. So for those who don't know about floor heating it is done like that (perspective of this pic is really distorted as windows on left and right are perpendicular to each other): And the additional loop i have placed in a very last literally hour before the floor was poured. And as of now the loop ends look similar like on the pic below (man-cave is already tiled and the walls are finished with plaster and painting): As you can see i know exactly what i am doing with this. What i need is some advice on WC gear as i have stopped following the market / trends many years ago (family, work, lack of time for gaming etc.the usual story...): - circulation pump: i doubt regular WC pump will be able to handle such hydraulic resistance (tube has ID=12mm and 35m length). So i will be getting a pump used typically in heating systems. Is it the right route? You have other suggestions? - i need to figure out quick-disconnects and want to build some sort of a manifold to be able to quickly attach / detach PC without bleeding air into the loop. Preferably at the desk's top close to the PC case. If the loop is not efficient enough i want to be able to quickly add radiators at my will. Any advice how to approach this aspect of a system? - what sort of reservoir do i need? The volume of liquid in a tube alone gonna be pi*r^2*L = 3.1415*0.006m^2*35m = ca 4L, so really little. But considerably a lot in terms of WC systems (BIG tube reservoir for PC is 0.4L). - since i will not be needing (if it all works at the end... ?) radiators i will be on the market for a small case. Not planning on changing my PC dramatically, so ATX MB size, fairly long GPU and at least 2x HDD and few SSD must fit in that case. If it has bulk-head type pass through at the back to run the tubes, that would save me time on modding the case. ALL ON BOARD THE CHOO-CHOO TRAIN!
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watercooling Temperature problems with first custom loop build
Veehxia posted a topic in Troubleshooting
Greetings everyone, After months of waiting for parts I was finally able to asseble my first custom water cooled build, while I was pretty pleased with the estetic result, as soon as I started to actually use it I've noticed a few things that had me wonder if everything was alright. My main problem is the temperature of the coolant, it can reach 50°C while I game and 40°C on a 30 minute CPU intensive task, which is something that rings an alarm in my head as my 3 rads should be able to dissipate a 250W 13900KF more than fine, but my coolant temp are gaining 10°C in 30 min, also the facts it takes a good 10 minutes to go from 50°C back under sub 40°C while idling only makes me wonder more. To provide some data, here are the specs of my PC: And here is the cooling: I'll also leave some pictures so you can see my loop: My loop order is Pump > Side Rad > Top Rad > CPU > GPU > Bottom Rad > Pump. I've been told that I'm running the CPU block in inverted flow and that it would have been better to not run the GPU with both inlet and outlet on the same side, but the temps of those components are not anything unusual so I dont think that's an issue, also because clearly heat is being dumped in the loop really well. While I idle or do simple task the temps are not a problem, my loop stays around 35°C with my room at around 28°C, but if I want to game I have to turn the AC on at 25°C so the coolant temp wont go over 50°C. In game I'll usually average 65/70°C on the CPU and 60-65°C on the GPU, depending on the titles it can go a bit up or down, but the coolant always reach 48°C at least. Bottom fan is intake while side and top are exhaust, I've been told to flip the side rad fans but I'd have to tear down the whole system to do it so I'm waiting on more opinions before I modify my setup. I've done some test to show how bad is the problem. This is the situation after a 10 minute run of Cinebench R23 + FurMark 1080p windowed, I've resetted the counters before starting. Room was with AC on at 25°C. I've also managed to take some pictures with a FLIR camera, not an expensive one but I hope they can be useful. These are before starting the stress test, while the loop was at 32°C. While these are taken at the end of the test, by the time I removed the front panel the coolant went already at 50°C. Pump is locked at 3.3K RPM and fans at 1250RMP. I'm looking for any possible advice, my 2 options right now are to flip the side fans or replace the temp sensor, because I have a feeling this one might have got the cable damaged while assembling the loop. Or that it's reporting false temps because of its position, it's on the reservoir but it's getting hot air from the bottom rads + heat from the pump motor, so it might be reporting bad temps under load just because of the heat going against it because the tubes dont seem to be super hot, totally very warm but I'd expect them to be hotter if it was really 50°C inside it. I've also disabled the ASUS CPU boost stuff and set a -0.08 offset, but the situation is still the same. Which is a shame because I feel like I've got really lucky with the silicon lottery, this thing was able to pull 400W and score 41k on R23. Please help me figure out this heat problem otherwise I think this system is doomed to melt itself. Another issue with this system is that it's almost undrainable, right now I've moved the valve on the bottom of the GPU but when I originally had it on the bottom of the reservoir, it would just drain the res without a single drop leaving the rads, tubes and block. How could I make draining it a bit easier without the need of blowing into it? The pump was dead silent while it was running with EK Loop cleaner and then the superflush, but it got a bit loud right after I finished installing windows. Now if I put it on full speed it does a strange sound, almost like sand going thru it, but there is no air in the system, it's been running for a week now with almost never being shut down and also twisted on all sides multiple times. Thanks in advance to whoever might be able to help me with this mess, definetly feel like I wanted to overdone it for my first watercooled build and now I'm paying the price of the small case.- 9 replies
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Hello Guys, I don't know if you have ever heard of Wolfdesign cases ? Well if you do, I have one of their prototypes and i'm gonna tell you its story. (excuse me, i know my english is like garbage level, but i believe you will be able to fully understand what i mean). It was a small business which a man named Dawid Lupkowski began and he wanted to begin his journey threw crowdfunding however i think that it never worked because his work never got enough attention. His main objective was to make professional built wall mounted cases. The main target was the watercooling market but he explained me that he would probaly even expand to air cooling if things went well. It was August 2021, I had a 9 years old computer and I was looking for wall mounted cases. I decided to use my free time during COVID to find a regular sidejob during my studies to bust the bank with my first watercooled build. Weirdly enough it was when i decided to build a new pc that i found his new made website (coincidence ? i don't know). I contacted him, but he told me that i had to wait because the company wasn't fully operationnal. I told him that i would agree to be a kind of prototype tester. After some negociation by mail, I got lucky and I was probably one of the first and perhaps one of the few customers that got to work directly with Dawid. In fact i'm sure that I own one of the very few cases he ever produced. His first objective was to try to build a case with custom specs and to have someone to make some advertising for him. In fact he was also testing chain production. He had small manufacturers making custom pieces for him for his humble beginnings. Dawid is a gentleman and very nice, fun and kind guy. I believe he had some degrees in economy or in design. I believe he was pationate about gaming and that he wanted to use his skills in design to work in pc building as a passion. We spent many hours on Skype designing a prototype for Extreme builds based on my recommendations. Sometimes we struggled to design pieces and spent hours trying to find solutions. As someone who never worked in the design industry it was a fun experience during Covid as i was regularly at home. Originally Dawid had the ideal to make semi open thin cases but with a tempered glass only. I told him that i though this design to be cool but not so good. Why ? because many people have dusty rooms and because he was losing depth space for more cooling possibilites. So he told me that we would design a custom version and that perhaps he would release it in the future. Here are the main points we were looking for : - Can be used with a cheap regular TV mount. - Beautifull to look at. - The build would be white gold + rainbow rgb in mind. - Should be fully enclosed to minimise dust issues. - Top and bottom meshes are made out of metal can be removed for cleaning (they use magnets) - Backside compartment with enough thickness to allow the front radiator to work properly. - Side has a metal mesh pannel. - Components have to be aligned and being adjustable for eye candy rainbow. - Can use 2 radiators 2x4 120mm top and bottom - Can use 1 front radiator 3x 140mm or 4x 120mm. here are few things we struggled a bit with during the design. Dawid didn't thought about using grommets in his cases as his initial case prototypes were not as big as this one and that most of them were black. Plus he didn't think about a neat cable management on the back bannel. I believe he thought that he had enough room in his back pannel compartment to squish every wire someone wanted. from our discussions he began to rethink things and ideas. - He tried to design channels for cable management. - I recommended him some grommets from NZXT and fractal. We ended up trying some which were nice. He agreed then that he had to find someone which could manufacture him those kind of grommets. After 2-3months of discussion and redesigns, he had issues with his tempered glass pannel manufacturer because. The guy wasn't able to align his holes with those of the blueprint dawid had for him. So he decided to make him a template to drill the holes and we finally ended up with a great glass panel. So here are the results : So here is the stupid thing : we both forgot something usefull in a case the front pannel IO... however it was too late to implement one. But here is one thing : I genuinely never missed it. I just had to open the front door to acces to rear mb connections and later on i just used a female extension for usb. video06557ccf-edff-4e63-914d-55c57e81789dvideo.mp4 So this thing is a Monster in Size... but it is a beautifull case and the psu casing is really the best thing Dawid designed and the masterpiece of his cases. I got it shipped after a long designing process and build process. Dawid was such a sweet guy that he even made me custom gold plated fan grills from an existing design. So The packaging was nicely build and well made it was way too good and it even caused an issue... You see Dawid used the plastic kitchen wrap to protect the top and bottom dust covers. The issue is that the paint of those plates wasn't fully cured it should have dried at least one entire month. Well they had the marking of the plastic wrap on the paint but it wasn't terrible. He asked me to replace them free of charge but i didn't want to because the man was beginning a new company ended up his studies recently and i thought he had not a ton of cash. Plus i accepted to work on prototypes and i knew he was beginning in the industry and that he would certainly make mistakes. So i began to mount my components on this huge thing. The first thing you had to do was to mount the case on those 2 mettalic feet you can see; otherwise the case wouldn't be able to stand up during the build process. The design was very clever and the printed 3d plastic at the end of the metal feet was strong but the case fell on the side one because i lost my balance and I ended up on the case breaking one of the plastic feet mount. Fortunately the case sustained no damage and those feet are to be removed after the completion of the pc. As you probably guessed it as this is a prototype, Dawid and i forgot some things i had to personnaly fix in the case. Fortunately i'm into a lot of random builds (electric guitars, rc modelling, guitar amps) and i had the tools to modify and fix the main issues. So here are some design flaws and errors we've encountered. - First of all we didn't expect the powder coating the reduce the gap in the radiator rail mounts. Result : screws didn't fit in them. When bruteforcing the screw didn't work without damaging metal, i had to use my drill and a kind of jig to remove the coating where i wanted to screw the radiators. - Second issue was with the bracket which supported the distro plate. We didn't consider that the pump would require a hole in the bracket. Fortunately i was able to cut the piece with a dremel. The result was not pretty however it was fine because the side of the bracket which required the hole was behind the distro plate and not visible. despite the difficulty of the build, for a first prototype i think it had few issues. As i discovered that powder coating was used in case manufacturing it caught my interest. I was like screw this : every motherboard is black. The most beautifull motherboard available when i was doing this build was the aorus z490 waterforce. I decided to do something extremely stupid with it... Yes i removed every metalic part of it and i removed the paint on it as bit tech YT channel did it. I told myself i would only do something like this once in my life (spending this absurd sum of money for a pc). Well it turned out that the white powder coating on the board worked and it was fine plus it only costed me 30$ in an auto shop... However here comes the drama and the mistake which costed me a diy electric guitar... Those z490 aorus motherboards had to be flashed before being used with a 11900k... I downloaded the right bios and unfortunately it bricked the board... I looked at the files and in the website if i didn't make any mistake... Well no mistake was done, however i did a thing i shouldn't have and tried it again with the second bios. The board was completely bricked and unfortunately i refused to pay a 20$ insurance for the board... Moreover as the card was modified i was sure that gigabyte would not take the RMA... So i got lucky and found that a company sold the motherboard half the price because it was the motherboard they used for exposition on their website. I had to sell one of my guitars and was able to get this one half the price. just had to swap the powder coated pieces and voila. I used the same bios file and fortunately this time it worked perfectly. I still don't know why this issue happened, but i don't think it was because of the powder coating. Here are the results : After getting the board fully done i finished the build and here is how it looks : IMG_3369 (2).mp4 So here are the full specs : Seasonic Prime TX 1000w Acrylic tubing. Barrow fittings. Mainframe customs modular wire I9 11900k RTX 3090 FE (got lucky and bought it at msrp when everyone was paying 2k for them) EKWB quantum vector waterblock EKWB flow indicator Aorus z490 waterforce. RGB mounting plate for motherboard. 1TB samsung evo 980 32GB 4x8GB corsair dominator GDDR4 3600 EKWB distroplate with pump EKWB 3x140 radiator 3x lian li uni fan 140mm 2 Hardware Labs Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 480 8x noctua Noctua NF-S12B redux to tame the noise (i know those aren't optimal). The build turned out to be extremely beautifull but it also sucked 1/3 of my 7 months salary + a guitar. The big pro is that this case is really well built and i will be able to use it for a lifetime. the build is extremely silent and the temps are around 40-50°c for the gpu under load and around 75°C for the cpu under load. (The waterforce z490 block hasn't exceptional performances the z590 for example is way better). After this i tried to get some advertisement for Dawid. Unfortunately for him i'm the kind of guy who hates social media like facebook and twitter so i don't have any account on those platforms which are the best to advertise something... I tried to contact JayZ or even GamersNexus, but i'm a no one so i didn't manage to contact them at all... I made some reviews of it on reddit, however many of my reviews were taken down by angry moderators which said i was advertising and that it was forbidden. However i wasn't advertising i was trying to do a full review of the case and i tried to spread the word that those cases were worth their price... As you guessed it things didn't go well with this and as Dawid is a No one person (not a celebrity on the net) it was extremely difficult for him to find ways to advertise to raise founds for his new ideas and its company. Over 2 years his main video on his channel has only 92k views and those are probably from people like me who tried to find if there were some wall mounted cases for sale. I kept contact for a year and he told me that the eu and the his state would help him creating his new company. 7 months later he told me that he got an investor. However it has been 5-6 months he didn't answer me. And i've heard by some few recent comments on the net that apparently he stopped with those cases. Which is extremely unfortunate because his ideas were geniunely interesting. I don't know if he made a break or if he is still trying, but i hope this post will perhaps help him. Wall mounted cases should be the main cases on the market. Why ? first of all because houses and appartments are becoming more expensive and wages are getting smaller with inflation. Which means people will tend to live in small rooms. A wall mounted Pc Saves you a lot of room plus it is the most beautifull way to display your components. Another advantage is that it is way more easier to maintain and to clean. the main con is that it can be annoying to change any hardware. This case is awesome and i wont sell it even for 10k. If linus tech tips might be interested in making a video about this case i would be able ship it to them. So here is the story of this case and the undetermined fate of this company. I hope you enjoyed reading this post.
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I am in the process of planning an RTX 4090 and 13900k build. I have an NZXT H9 Flow for my case and could run a max of 3 360mm radiators. In terms of thickness: Top: 30mm ideally, 45 mm would be pushing clearance for motherboard Side: 30mm, 45mm would be cramped Bottom: If I don't mount my GPU vertically, 45mm. With vertical GPU, 30mm. I will probably just get 3x 30mm HW labs radiators, but this would give me no options for a bottom drain. I also like the look of flat reservoirs, which I could put in place of the side rad. It seems like triple radiators is the wisest choice for temps and noise considering the hardware, but I am open to other opinions.