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Hi, I'm building a custom watercooled scrapyard PC for a video, and I've got all my parts for the build. The only problem is that my (cheap) CPU Block from Amazon is too small for my motherboard: The motherboard CPU cooler mounting screws are 7.5cm apart and the CPU block can do 6cm max. See the images I attached. I can't really buy a new CPU block, and I have very limited recources where I live. I can order stuff online but that can take a while to arrive. I have thought of using the normal mounting mechanism with large washers that clamp down on the corners of the CPU block, but I hope someone has a better idea. Thanks in advance! For additional information: I found this whole PC in the scrapyard and am planning to watercool it and add RGB and stuff. This will not be my new main PC, it's just for a fun video and to have a cool old PC in a very stylish old case. PC specs are: Intel Core I5-4690, 12GB of DDR3 RAM, a (new) 120GB SATA SSD and no GPU. It just exists for being in a cool video and having a simple system to work on for fun.

Hello I want to water-cool my MSI Rtx 4090 ventus, but I can't find any waterblocks for that model, does anyone know of a compatible one that they know has been installed or does anyone have a picture of the Pcb layout of the ventus so I can compare with the trio version.

Got a used 3090 on ebay. It came with an alphacool eisblock es waterblock that the previous owner used it with. I looked at it after unboxing and it looks visibly bent at the edge especially, and I think it's because of this capacitor https://www.reddit.com/r/ZOTAC/comments/10r8e05/rtx_3090_trinity_pcb_question/ Doesn't go back to straight even after taking it off. I asked the seller and he said he used it like this for around a year with no issues. How bad is this on a scale of 1-10? I tried sanding it down but I think it wasn't enough. Can't really tell if doing more will fix it considering the kink is visible even on just the bare board. Should I sand it down more or leave it like this?

Hi guys is Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-A Radeon RX 6700XT compatible with the Radeon™ RX 6750 XT GAMING X TRIO 12G. Thanks Budget (including currency): Country: France Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):

Hey guys. So I'm looking to get a gtx 1050ti for a project build that will have a full liquid cooling loop. But. I cannot find water block for it... can someone please point me in the right direction?

I've switched back to water cooling after a long hiatus. And I've run into an issue that I haven't experienced before. My GPU is drawing less power i.e. Watts than before, which has impacted the FPS in gaming. This is something I haven't experienced before. The GPU is a XFX THICC III 5700XT Ultra. I did switch out the old thermal pads for thermal grizzly, but I don't think that could cause any issues, as the PC powers on and there are no black screens / hangs / crashes. Google search on this issue only brings up how to lower power consumption, which doesn't directly deal with what I am experiencing. I'm using Hardware Monitor, MSI Afterburner and AMD Radeon to monitor the power consumption, which is driving me nuts. Even a full Furmark / Prime95 Test is not pushing past 60 watts of power consumption. Before, this use to be around the 200-255 watt mark. Specs: Ryzen 5 5600x CPU 32GB Corsair Ram 3600MHZ Ram XFX THICC III 5700XT Ultra (Owned for almost 5 years now) Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite Motherboard Power: Bequiet Straight Power 11 Gold 750 watt. What I've done so far to try and fix it: 1. Swapping out the previous VGA / PCIE. Before, it was one 8pin to two separate 6+2. Now its 2x 8pins to 6+2. 2. DDU Fresh Drivers / Rollbacks 3. Default Performance settings for the Card 4. Bios Update 5. Turned off / on Re-size Bar and AMD Smart Access Memory I'm just short of draining my water build and opening the Graphics Card to have a look if there is anything unusual. But I'm not sure that's the issue. Everything seems to running well, even as I type this. The issues are in multiple games I've tested over the last 2-3 Days. None of my games, with the lowest settings set, are able to crack 30fps minimum. I'm honestly boggled. Short of draining, reapplying paste and giving it another go, I might have to fork out a few thousand for a new GPU, (Australian Prices for GPUs are shocking) which I'm trying to avoid at all costs. Looking to see if the community has bumped into this issue. I feel like I've attacked multiple issue solving angles here. Not sure. Provide your input and I'll be happy to answer any questions / queries. I'll be checking this throughout the day too. Thanks for the Read!

I did a routine dust clean and replaced the thermal paste of my Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO, mounted to the middle-top of my case (the waterblock below the tubing entrance on the radiator, the CPU to the left of the radiator aka rear of the case). The pump/waterblock was previously plugged in to the CPU_fan header and the fans in the usual SYS_fan headers. After the clean I booted the PC and was met with temps going up to 80+ celsius purely on boot and noticed that there was no water being moved around in the tubes, no sounds or vibrations. I tried plugging the waterblock/pump header into SYS_fan headers as well as removing all the fans from any headers and running the waterblock from the CPU header alone but nothing changed. I checked the waterblock speed in the BIOS and the CPU_header was being registered at around 2600rpm set to Normal on my Gigabyte b85-HD3 rev 2.1. It did jump from 2600 to 0 a few times in a split second, but I figured it might just be the BIOS catching up to me changing the fan speeds to try and fix it. The Cooler Master logo on the waterblock is lit up and the fans are of course spinning from the SYS_fan headers. It seems to be registering and powered on. I reset the CMOS as well as updated the BIOS to the latest version. I removed the waterblock and reapplied the thermal paste, and also removed the radiator and rotated it a bunch along with the computer which is now sitting on it's rear (on account of the possibility of air bubbles). I also plugged a normal fan into the CPU_fan header and it worked fine, including changing the speed in the BIOS. I managed to bring the temps down to around 30-40 by reapplying the thermal paste and tightening the waterblock better, but the temps jump quickly to around 60 when any activity occurs. I've seen mentions of possible air bubbles in the (now somewhat older) AIO but the water is not being moved around whatsoever when booting or when the PC is running. There were some very short burbles a couple times but the water is not being moved at all it seems. I'll leave it overnight to maybe josh the bubbles a little while it is on it's back, if any are present. Otherwise I don't really know what could be causing this, unless a pump can die and still be registered as working? Thank you in advance for any help! Specs: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 64-bit Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. B85-HD3

Hello! I just ordered a prebuilt alienware R11 from Dell because It was the only conceivable way to buy a 3090. I didn’t realize however that the aircooled 3090 dell ships is the short bus version and has kinda not great thermal performance. Does anyone know of a waterblock that would be able to work with this card or a place that can make me a custom one?? (Im in West Coast USA) Thanks! :)

Continuing off of the title, i have researched about aio’s, waterblocks, and some other stuff. i dont have anything too fancy i just want something under $200 that can watercool my gpu for better temps. is there anyway i can liquid cool my gpu at all?

Hi all, I am coming to you all with quite possibly the most first world problem there is. I have had this issue for about 6 months now and always just ignored it but I thought I might as well get some opinions and see what you all think it could be. Anyhow, I have a MSI RTX 3090 with an EKWB on it, and about 6 months ago when the power went out while gaming, ever since then a random RGB light on the actual card itself can't be controlled. Currently the RGB connector isn't even plugged into the motherboard for the waterblock RGB so I know it isn't the block lighting, because the rest of the block lighting isn't even on but that is fine. Anyway I wasn't sure at the time if it was software related or not. I have tried reinstalling the motherboard RGB software, and fully reinstalling Windows, and no matter what light colour I set it always plays the colour cycling as shown in the video. Is it possible that when the power went out it killed a controller or something? Now this doesn't effect performance at all so it isn't the end of the world but I thought I would see if there is anyone out there who might know. Thank you GPU RGB.mp4

I have a pc I built over a year ago that I love. It has a Threadripper 2920x, Asus Zenith Extreme Alpha motherboard, 64GB 3200 ram, a RTX Titan that was an upgraded from a 1080ti, a 1200w Corsair PSU, all in a Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow Edition case. I built this pc for my hobby 3D modeling and rendering, explaining the Titan upgrade because I needed more Vram for my bigger projects. I also use the computer as my gaming system. For the most part everything works and runs fantastic, most games and renders have the graphics card running average around 45°C with a locked framerate at 150 fps on the Nvidia Control Panel. However, I'm getting to the point where I'm working on bigger and more projects and while the Titan is still a great card to use, it gets a little toasty at times. I have iCue make my ram LEDs glow red when it hits 65°C and that's when I pause the renders or gaming to let my system cool itself off. Now I know 65° is not a dangerous threshold but I still want my card to have a long life, so that's my own thermal limit. The Threadripper itself is cooled by a Corsair AIO, so any cooling modifications I do wouldn't effect the cpu temps, also the AIO makes it so CPU temps have nothing to do with GPU temps. What I want to do is watercool my Titan for three reasons. 1. Better cooling and thermals, making sure my card can function longer. 2. I can populate more of the pcie lanes underneath without restricting airflow. I want to add storage options and it would free up more space. 3. Eventually I will be getting another graphics card to pair with my Titan so I can have more render power for my 3D projects. I have a GTX 1070ti just sitting that I can use in the meantime, then when prices of new cards become sane again, I would want to invest in a EVGA RTX 3090 that I would also want to watercool. So I need to design and make a watercooling setup for my pc that can handle 2 gpus in the future. It will be completely independent from CPU cooling so no need to ad that to the mix, so just the GPUs will be cooled in this system. The problem is I don't know what to do nor how to get started. I kinda want to put the radiator(s, if 2x 280mm ones could work) on the front cause the AIO is using the top vents. I plan to just cool the one Titan card now and add to the cooling system when I get my second permanent card later. Soft tubing is totally fine and prefered for easy use and upgrades. This would be my first time doing anything watercooled other than my truck, lol, so any advice would be great. Parts list, friendly advice, suggestions welcome. Thank you all again.

Has any1 on this sub experience with watercooling the said card? I could not find an officially supported waterblock for it but Bykski has one that fits the Palit RTX 3060 Dual OC. The two PCBs look identical except for two capacitors which might be in the way but idk that. The stock air coolers of both cards also look pretty much the same concerning the actual contact areas. I know there is not much use in watercooling this card anyway but I have a lot of watercooling parts at hand and i really love the "watercooled look". Thank you

Hello everyone, I own a ASUS DUAL RTX2060 OC edition (DUAL-RTX2060-O6G-EVO) since few months and noise produced by fans is very ugly under load (for example with Far Cry 5). I'm looking for a waterblock that could adapt to my graphic card. Could you help me to find a compatible one please ? I made a few searches but without success until now Regards

Hi everyone, I was trying to install a waterblock for my gtx 1080ti (evga gtx 1080ti sc2). Since the card is a evga variant and I did not find a perfect waterblock for it. Instead, I found one which should work if I remove one of the fan connector (plastic socket and the metallic pins) shown in the following picture. So just wondering if that could be safely removed and how? Thanks!

I've been cooking the Quadro p1000 in my laptop for a few years, if I make the pc jump & build my rig I intend to upgrade to the Quadro p4000, I have a few questions. Can you readily buy a Quadro p4000 Waterblock anywhere? Is it completely insane to Waterblock a p4000? I heard that Quadro cards are mostly just plussed up software on last gen gaming GPUs, is this true? If it is true, which gaming card is it based on & presumably compatible with that gpu's Waterblock offerings?

If I shouldn't Waterblock my ram then why do they sell it? Universal ram waterblocks are fairly cheap seeming (50$ ish). But in yesterday's post (& a Linus vid) I learned in SSDs, NAND likes to be hot and Controllers cool. Is ram the same way? Is cooling ram just for aesthetics? The plan is to run 2x32gb at 3600 in a workstation with a custom softline waterloop, should I add a universal ram waterblocks to the loop just because I can?

Does the corsair hydro waterblock for the 3080 Fe fit on the 3080 ti and are there other waterblocks that fit on the 3080 ti FE

Ive looked everywhere for a waterblock for my EVGA GTX 1660 Super and i cant manage to find one on any supliers website, amazon or on ebay/kijiji, do they not make them for that model or do I use a 1660 TI waterblock?

The Quadro p4000 Waterblock is sold out everywhere I look & I doubt that's going to change. That being said, I saw JayzTwoCents's video where he just installed a universal GPU cooler & a vrm cooler he had. It's obviously not very elegant but... I'm waterblocking a Quadro p4000, I'm building a workstation, fuck elegant. Has anyone done this? Has anyone removed the cooler from the p4000 for any reason & have experience with the card? Any recommendations on cheap universal GPU coolers? Cheap universal VRM coolers?

So I'm trying to find a full Metal custom waterblock (Basically no acrylic see through parts) that I can buy for a RTX 3070/3080. Does one exist and if so, where can I buy one. Any links?

Hey guys, I have just a quick question. I've just installed 2x EK Quantum Vector 3090 FE waterblocks, and the bottom one of the two appears to have what I assume are bubbles trapped between the acrylic and the plate. Here's a photo of what I've spotted. Is this normal/okay? I know there's been a few bubbles in the system and that they will take a few days to clear out, I just wanted to make sure there's not a fault with the block. Also, here's a couple shots of the whole setup for bants: Please excuse the mix of tubing - long story short I had the wrong fittings but basically this weekend I will be replacing all the clear tubing with ZMT (and redoing some different run paths, I can already pick out some better routes). Here's a shot of it before the water cooling (temps were not viable...) So far the temps (in the water cooling) have the vram temps at about 74c (down from 106 in aircooled) and the GPU die sits around 62c under a rendering load. CPU sits around 60-70C when rendering (5900x). This is my first ever custom loop and will be an ongoing project. Machine is used for rendering with Octane and Redshift hence the GPU horsepower.

I see on Corsair's site that it will fit EVGA 2080 super XC hybrid but does not show support for just a regular 2080 are the boards that significantly different between 2080 and 2080 super

Hi! I was just wondering if the EKWB quantum velocity nickel and plexi waterblock can be positioned vertically on an AM4 motherboard. Having the inlet and outlet ports vertical will make my loop much easier and better looking. If this question in unclear, please let me know! Thanks!

I'm looking to get into a full loop and have been having trouble locating a guaranteed compatible waterblock for the Windforce OC variant of the Aorus 2080 Super. This is the closest I've gotten so far in terms of compatibility, but wanna make sure I'm aware of as many options as possible. From what I can tell the card is a custom PCB so no FE blocks will work based off of THIS .pdf that goes in depth on what is reference or custom pcb for each 2000 series card. Anyone able to help?

Hi everyone. I'm looking to install a water block on the XFX THICC III 5700XT GPU. While I have already taken it apart and put it back together for curiosity's sake, I'm now looking to install the water block with a radiator and pump in my system. I have space for a 240mm Radiator or a 360mm Radiator in the Be quiet! Pure Base 500 tempered glass case. A quick search on YouTube doesn't show any results for my specific card to what is needed in terms of components, fittings and such. Is there a generic guideline or list needed to tick off what is needed to complete the water loop? The idea is to mount either a 240mm to the top of the case or a 360mm radiator to the front of the case and run it to the pump and GPU water block. If anyone could provide specifics or just some information on what I need to get started, please feel free. This is the Water Block I intend to order off Alpha Cool > https://www.alphacool.com/shop/gpu-water-cooler/amd-fullsize/25912/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-acryl-gpx-a-radeon-rx-5700-xt-thicc-ii/iii