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Im currently buying components for a new pc im building and in that pc im thinking about buying a 360mm radiator but the problem is my case cant fit a radiator at the top meaning that i have to put the radiator in the front of the case im wondering if itll affect my performance having the only intake fans in my case be through a radiator? if you want to view my current components i will leave a link below https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MTzct7

so this is my build log of building the ultamit windows xp build. case: thermaltake tower 900 (i do have a corsair obsidian 900d witch would be more period correct build but we will see) mb: asus rampage iv extreme (back one would be better but could not find one...) vram south bridge water block ram: corsair dominator 4x4gb 1600 (looking for 4 more) also have 8x2gb too) will be water cooled just need to find what threads they are... gpu: atm gtx evga 980 with water block ( terminal block threads are a bit messed up but got a barb to seat so...( update just got a titanx maxwell of ebay so lets hope it works.. cpu Xeon E5-1680 v2 so this build is the ultimate windows xp build to play older game. gtx 960 is the last supported driver but there a slight mod you can do to get up to a titanx maxwell to work. Quadro K6000 would work too but i dont think they made a water block for em i dont think? i got one mb and was putting it together and i put the cpu up side down and killed it...so had to get another one. i found a water blocked asus rampage iv extreme water blocked witch would have been the best off ebay but it looks like they were just scamming people... so i kept looking... and found another one with water block and i got it i also got a titan x maxwell with out water block but it was having problem so got my moeny back. so today (2/19/2024) i got another titan x maxwell off ebay with water block so lets hope this one works... for the mb i took off the blocks and cleaned em the cpu block is kinda bad so i took out the jet plate but i might use a different block i dont no yet. i have a raystrom block. for rads is 2x 480mm rads with artic p 120mm fan for now with a d5 pump. dont no all the details yet but thats what i got for now. other windows xp build inspired Nvidia GTX970/980/980Ti/Titan driver install for Windows XP the looks im trying to go by

I'm looking to put something together soon and it will be my first custom loop. After some research I found that Barrow and Bykski are the two big water cooling brands in China and a loop can be comparable in price to a Lian Li Galahad 360 (or at least that's what I'm telling myself). I read it's recommended to get Barrow fittings and everything else from Bykski. Is this still the case? Are Barrowch 14*10 Normal temperature type PETG Tube blue safe to use? I read that adding colour to the liquid can result in sediment and gunk so this seems like a good solution. Reservoir pump combo (D5) vs Distroplate pump combo (DDC) - the distro plate looks good for routing. This price is similar so which is recommended? I read that D5 pumps are much more reliable but I see the distro pump combos are also pretty popular. I can also buy the distro plate without a pump if the D5 will be that much better. Some people were also recommending Laing/Xylem/Lowara DDC 18w pumps instead of the Granzon PWM DDC Add-on Pump with Digital Display 12V that can come with the distro plate? Link to the distro plate The specs of the Granzon PWM DDC pump are below. Specifications Material: Aluminum (not in contact with coolant) Pump Core: CP-D3PB-X RPM: 1800-4800 Power: DC12v Flow Rate: 700L/h Head: 6M Connector: 4-Pin Molex and PWM+ data feedback

Background lots of info on the laptop is in my initial review thread but a TL:DR is that this laptop is incredibly powerful but struggles to cool a 10900k (I know, who would have guessed it's hard to cool a desktop i9 in a laptop). I've been interesting in the hybrid coolers for clevo machines since before I bought this laptop, but obviously there are some problems. Mainly complexity, portability, and cost. The Parts I tried to keep this as compact and simple as possible while not compromising portability too much. I knew I needed a quick and easy way to disconnect the water cooling system if I needed to take the machine somewhere, there's really 2 options for this: Predone aliexpress kits with a 'water return function' that I was told is quick and easy but I don't know how much I trust them and they are quite expensive (another $300-$400 on top of the heatsink). Quick Disconnect Fittings I went with quick disconnects, the ones I got were from koolance. I was told the tubing is 3mm ID, 5mm OD. It's not, it's 4mm ID, 6mm OD. I had to cut up end off the rubber cover that shipped with the fittings and use as a kind of adapter in between the 3mm bard and fitting, this plus a zip tie seems to work pretty reliably, haven't had any issues but just in case I angled the laptop and positioned everything in a way that if one was to leak it wouldn't leak onto anything except the desk. (the fitting on the laptop heatsink are designed for 4x6mm tubing. I'll probably get some 3x5mm tubing and hope I can stretch in over the laptop's fittings. As for the rest of the loop I found this thing: It's a Barrow DARIDP-30, it's a pump, radiator, and mini reservoir all in one. It's perfect for something like this as it simplifies the loop to basically just 2 tubes between the laptop and it. Plus it's actually quite cheap, I got mine for $160 on eBay which is way cheaper than a pump+res+rad. The hybrid heatsink is from Aliexpress, here's a link for the X170SM-G/X170KM-G but they have one for a lot of Clevo laptops. Total Cost to watercool it is ~$600 which is quite a lot and honestly probably isn't worth it from a cost/performance perspective. Mini heatsink review Overall the performance of this heatsink is awesome however basically everything else was kind of eh. Mine arrived a little bit bent on one side but it still fit without issues. There were literally 0 instructions for where to place thermal pads so I just had to guess based off the stock heatsink, I guessed wrong... 3 times... Had to spend multiple hours trying different configurations until it wouldn't either hard crash under GPU load or throttle the CPU because the VRMs were overheating... The reason it took so many attempts despite only including 2 different thickness of thermal pads was that you have to stack thermal pads to make contact with most of the VRMs..... Also as mentioned above, I asked what size the tubing was so I could order QDCs and they told me 3x5mm, the tubing literally has '4x6mm' written on the side of it... The Benefits The main thing I was looking for was getting the CPU temp under control when playing games or just under short bursty workloads. That definitely happened, instead of the CPU stilling at ~60 and spiking up to 90+ it sits at 40-45 and spikes up to only ~70 max. (under a all core stress test like cinebench it still reaches the 90s). With the normal heatsink cinebench would throttle the CPU down to ~4.5-4.6GHz while pulling ~140W. Now it'll happily truck along at 5.0GHz while pulling just over 200W... Cinebench went from ~15000 to ~16400, I beat a stock 1950x xD. 3DMark scores honestly aren't much higher but temps are way lower. Without any real tweaking besides my quick GPU overclock that I knew was stable (+140 core, +800 mem) I got almost 12k in Timespy: It's also quite a bit quieter even with the radiator fan speed at 100%. Honestly might swap the fans with some Noctuas though. I believe any 120mm (25mm thick) fan should fit in that pump/rad/res combo thing. plus, like it's cool. Pictures Conclusion It's super cool. However if you just want to improve CPU temperatures I would highly recommend just getting the aftermarket air cooled heatsink as I tested it without the loop connected and while temps were obviously higher I was actually able to run 4.9GHz all core while pulling ~180W in cinebench. It also didn't spike as high during normal use. This is probably because they more than doubled the amount of heatpipes connected to the CPU compared to the stock heatsink. I'm just one to see how far I can push the limits and having a 10 core i9 @ 5GHz in a laptop is quite awesome, lol. Extras If you like this kind of stuff, check out @Meaker's thread here. Feel free to ask questions and suggest things.

Hi, I've been seeing a few posts about serial vs. parallel watercooling, and I understand the basic idea behind them, being that with serial the second heat-producing item in the loop gets just boned and can't dissipate enough heat through the block. However, I was thinking, If I, say theoretically were to run the output of a gpu (like a 3080) after it's been heated, through something like a 240mm rad, then ran the rad back to the cpu, then through another rad (like a 360mm), would this be better than serial? (or maybe even parallel?) Something like this: Starting at the gpu, I could run it up, like this: Then, It could go UP to the top rad: Then, back down to the cpu: and finally back to the front rad, where it would be cooled "all the way" back down and go back to the gpu Would this work? or, at least be better than serial? Will be posting pictures when this is done, but as it's mostly air-cooled right now, it can wait. This was the main problem: 100 degrees C, not even hitting TDP. grahh. WITH a 240mm cooler. 13th gen go crazy.

ok so thing to know about first. i have dyslexia so spelling and thoughts are all over the place so bare with me. i update things alot so thing will change. and i dont update things that happened. every time you see a blurry image you drank and if you see a foot you do a cold shot! haha ya i need something that dose better pics... i did get a phone but cant drag and drop off of it... so... ya... oh and also vary thank full for all the views and the LONG waiting time... it will be built at some point... so what was the point in having 2 pcs? well i do not like windows 10 and ill have to use windows 10 at some point for the direct x 12. so windows 10 on game pc and windows 7 on my other pc. (edit 8/13/2019 i got a windows 10 laptop and tried to install windows 7 on it but had no luck as its uses nvme drives... so i was forced to use windows 10 but i found ways of disabling most of the stuff for now....) making this whole build pointless....oh well i was going to use two be quiet dark base pro 900 cases as you can swap the insides so i have access to both pcs. and i got a thermaltake core p 200 that i was going to put the two cases on it but did not have a top so ied have to make one. then i decided having 3 peaces for water cooling was not going to work so i did end up buying the thermaltake core w 200 case what i should have done in the first place. Check List things to do: http:// http:// Pc 1 gaming: cpu: skylake 1151 i5 6600k (in case i want to over clock) Gpu: msi gtx 780 lighting (updated to a gigabit win force 1070 g1) mb: Gigabyte z170-hd3-cf (in case i want to over clock) (updated to a asus tuf z270 mb) Psu: old xfx 850 (updated to a sea sonic focus gold 550fx) ssd: Mushkin MKNSSDE3480GB Eco3 480 Gb ram: Corsair ddr4 -2132 dominate platinum 16gb (just in case later fined out 8gb is good enuff) Storage: 2x 4tb wd green hhd http:// Pc 2: surfing the net, Netflix, music Cpu: i7 920 1366 2.66 Gpu: gigabyte win force gtx 760 for now i might find another gpu with water block and use the 760 on another pc. mb: asus rampage 2 extreme Psu: non i sold my other one....(stupid me) (updated to old xfx 850) Hdd: Wd velociRaptor 150 gb ram: 6gb gskill ram ( update only 4 gig out of 6 work 1 slot broken on mb... ) Have to sell the two dark base pro cases (both sold at a loss) My pc right now

I have the Gamdias Talos E2 Elite PC Case (https://www.gamdias.com/en/component/case/TALOS_E2_ELITE) , and there is a female 5V 3 Pin cable running from its set of ARGB Case Fan cables. I’m trying to connect the ThermalRight Frozen Prism 240 Black ARGB Water Cooler (http://www.thermalright.com/product/frozen-prism-240-black-argb/), which has its own set of male and female 5V 3 Pin ARGB cables (sets of male / female connectors from each fan, and another set running from the Water Block). I was assuming that I could just Daisy Chain all of these together (from the Case Fan cables to the Water Cooler cables), and then the ARGB Lighting from the Water Cooler would be in sync with the Case Fans lights. That did not happen, at all - Instead, the Case Fan lights turn-on normally, but there is no lighting from any of the Water Cooler parts (2 fans, and the Water Block itself). Was I wrong to assume that these could just be Daisy Chained together? Why don’t these lights run in sync with each other? (Side-note: my motherboard does not have a 5V 3 Pin ARGB header).

Hi all, I'm looking to clean this gpu block and put it into a new loop, but I've noticed these dark spots that don't seem to want to come off. I'm assuming this is corrosion of the nickel-plated copper. My question here is would cleaning this off completely be possible/necessary to use the block moving forward? And is it "safe" to use this in a loop with new components? Thank you for any advice

Budget (including currency): $1500 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Photography editing and multimedia production (Adobe Illustrator, Lightroom, Photoshop, etc.) Other details I’m looking to gut and upgrade this Sony Vaio which belongs to my mother. She’s had this computer since 2005 and was a workhorse during our most difficult times. The computer stopped working at the behest of a young and incredibly naive and dumb child (me) around 2011, and I would like to upgrade it with more modern specs. Here are the issues I’m facing: 1) The liquid cooling unit’s placement is installed in such a way that it’s difficult to remove it from the CPU, as it snakes through a thinner part up to the radiator located at the topmost part of the chassis (shown below). 2) I would like to keep the installed dual optical drives, floppy drive, SD and memory stick ports located on the front panel of the computer. I understand modern motherboards don’t have IDE connectors anymore in place of SATA. 3) I would like to try and keep the current liquid cooling unit, however I’m concerned with how it’ll keep up with modern CPUs as this computer was installed with an Intel Pentium D. 4) The power supply is in a really weird spot given the design of the case, and I wonder if a modern power supply would be able to fit in its current spot. This will be my first ever project, so any ideas you may have for how I can navigate this case would be incredibly helpful. Cheers!

Hi all! Just got the rads for my second ever water cooled build, 3x Hardware Labs Nemesis 420 GTXs, and was surprised to see a bunch of reddish/orange stuff down the ports. I'm aware that all rads need to be flushed to remove flux and other manufacturing residue, but this seems a bit weird? It's been a few years since my last build, but I don't recall the rads I used then (EK CoolStream XE 360, Hardware Labs Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW) looking so dirty. The reddish/orange rust/corrosion looking stuff in particular is concerning to me. In each rad one of the ports (the more recessed one) looks a lot worse, with much more orange stuff. The other one has some orange, but mostly just silver drops that I assume are flux or some other manufacturing gunk. I see a lot of posts elsewhere answering similar questions saying it's normal, but the reasoning fluctuates wildly. Most say it's just normal copper oxidation but then proceed to say that would be green where this looks more like iron rust (red/orange). I guess it starts reddish and changes to green over time? I got all 3 rads brand new from the same vendor and they all look more or less the same. The boxes were pretty dusty like they've sat around a long time. One other strange thing was the specs on the back of the box had one line covered up with black tape. I took the tape off and saw the covered up line says "Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish", which is what they list on the HWLabs site. The rads do not have the same textured finish shown on the HWLabs site. It's a very smooth, matte black. That's not really an issue for me, but I do find it odd and it makes me wonder if these are old inventory or something? TL:DR; Do these look like normal ports for brand new, unflushed rads? PS: Sorry that the focus is completely off. Phone will not focus inside the port with enough distance to shine light in so you can actually make out what's in there.

As the the title suggest I am having trouble with my ekwb direct die cpu cooler for the lga 1700 socket. Most people have reported that the cooler doesn’t even touch the die and in my case I can’t even install it as the mounting screws don’t even go far enough down. It also makes terrible contact with any connection forming only when I add a lot of LM. For reference I’m cooling a 12900ks cpu on a meg z690 Ace mb both of which are said to be compatible with the EK-Quantum Velocity² Direct Die D-RGB - 1700 Nickel + Plexi cooler. Im coming here cause I’ve been getting no where with ekwb customer support for over week and have now been ghosted by them. I am considering just removing the contact frame and using the cooler to apply mounting pressure, but this is my first time doing direct die cooling and am rather inexperienced.

Hello, Besides EKWB, is there any brand of custom water cooling kit and gpu water block (soft tube) that can be substituted? Current use i5-12600k and 3080 OC 12GB. Due to the use environment, the 2080ti used before was broken due to overheating, and the temperature of the graphics card used now is also too high. So there is a need to use graphics card water cooling. Total buget around USD600. Current computer components: Chassis: Sharkoon REV300 (https://en.sharkoon.com/product//404495103212) Graphic card: ROG Strix GeForce RTX™ 3080 OC Edition 12GB Cpu: Intel i5-12600K Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING Z690-PLUS WIFI D4 Thks!

My System build is 2 years old and I have started facing the problem of instant temperature raise in seconds from around 37*C upto 75-80*C while using FL studio DAW. CPU frequency also keeps fluctuating from 800MHz to around 5098 MHz without overclocking. I have tried resetting the bios to default and shuffled between balanced performance and high performance mode, not of much help. I have tried Cinebench R23 test for couple of seconds and temperature went upto 100*C. What could be the reason for these problem I am facing? Is it because water coolant might have evaporated from the AIO? Please help me sort it ! Thank you !! My System configuration : Intel i9 10th gen 10900k unlocked CPU Asus TUF Gaming Z590 plus WiFi motherboard Samsung EVO Plus NVMe 1tb Samsung 1TB SSD Toshiba 4tb HHD GSkill Trident Z Neo 32gb 3600MHz Ram Lian Li Galahad AIO 240 CPU water cooler Lian Li ST120 RGB Fans Cooler Master MWE 750v2 80+ Gold Modular Power Supply Lian Li 011 dynamic case. Windows 10 pro os

Hi, I am planning a custom build with the i7-13700k and I am conflicted with either choosing an AIO liquid cooling solution or getting a dual fin air cooler. The major points for my consideration are: 1. I am in India, where peak temps in summer go to 45C (although i'll be in a air conditioned room, but considering that might not be the case at some point) 2. I want something that will last long and will not cause any intermediate issues that will send me running to a PC place to get anything repaired (in short, I want stability)

I did a routine dust clean and replaced the thermal paste of my Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO, mounted to the middle-top of my case (the waterblock below the tubing entrance on the radiator, the CPU to the left of the radiator aka rear of the case). The pump/waterblock was previously plugged in to the CPU_fan header and the fans in the usual SYS_fan headers. After the clean I booted the PC and was met with temps going up to 80+ celsius purely on boot and noticed that there was no water being moved around in the tubes, no sounds or vibrations. I tried plugging the waterblock/pump header into SYS_fan headers as well as removing all the fans from any headers and running the waterblock from the CPU header alone but nothing changed. I checked the waterblock speed in the BIOS and the CPU_header was being registered at around 2600rpm set to Normal on my Gigabyte b85-HD3 rev 2.1. It did jump from 2600 to 0 a few times in a split second, but I figured it might just be the BIOS catching up to me changing the fan speeds to try and fix it. The Cooler Master logo on the waterblock is lit up and the fans are of course spinning from the SYS_fan headers. It seems to be registering and powered on. I reset the CMOS as well as updated the BIOS to the latest version. I removed the waterblock and reapplied the thermal paste, and also removed the radiator and rotated it a bunch along with the computer which is now sitting on it's rear (on account of the possibility of air bubbles). I also plugged a normal fan into the CPU_fan header and it worked fine, including changing the speed in the BIOS. I managed to bring the temps down to around 30-40 by reapplying the thermal paste and tightening the waterblock better, but the temps jump quickly to around 60 when any activity occurs. I've seen mentions of possible air bubbles in the (now somewhat older) AIO but the water is not being moved around whatsoever when booting or when the PC is running. There were some very short burbles a couple times but the water is not being moved at all it seems. I'll leave it overnight to maybe josh the bubbles a little while it is on it's back, if any are present. Otherwise I don't really know what could be causing this, unless a pump can die and still be registered as working? Thank you in advance for any help! Specs: Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC 64-bit Intel Core i7 4790 @ 3.60GHz NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 798MHz Cooler Master Nepton 120XL AIO Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. B85-HD3

Context: I'm moving into a new house with Mom. I got approval to install a power panel, network panel, and server rack. The best part is to put a dedicated air duct threw my closet as an in and an out. It's not guaranteed. The home builder would have to approve putting an air duct and a power panel in the closet. Just in case them being able to I'm making this plan. pc part picker: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/sweet_baked_potato/saved/f4qdqs Objective: quiet gaming server in the closet My dilemma: do I have enough rad to cool my parts? or just the gpu's? there aren't Noctua fans for 180 mm and I don't know enough brands that support and recognize to find quiet fans. I'm unsure of my water cooling choices for the blocks, tubing, and fittings. I'm trying to cover all bases so I can just put everything together without a problem. sorry for my poor English even though its my first language

I've been planning on getting an aio recently but am not sure which one to get, i decided i might aswel get an aio for my ryzen 5 5600x because the stock cooler is rediculously loud and i hate it, ive been considering 3 brands specifically for the aio: MSI, Aorus, Corsair. But am having trouble deciding which ones best. I'm limited to a 240mm aio since the top of my corsiar 4000d airflow doesnt have enough room for a 360mm one, specific ones ive been considering are the: Gigabyte Aorus waterforce 240, corsair iCue h100x rgb elite and the msi mag coreliquid R. Right now im considering the Waterforce 240 the most since i think its the best looking one and will nicely match my motherboard, ive read reviews for it and know its supposed to be a very decent aio, msi ones are apparently loud and thats not exactly what i want and the corsiar one is apparently very good. But i just wanted to ask which one will get the best balance of looks, cooling and low noise Also if there are any other recommendations then please send a link to them Thanks

So I got the 2070 super KO around the time of its launch, and it has served me very well, but I'm now looking into getting into water-cooling and in the process I realized that the KO card is not a reference board, because its kost optimized its got a massive bank of capacitors and a few other differences, I was wondering if anyone had a water block that would work for it because I cant seem to find one. I just want to know if I should wait to water cool my system till I upgrade to a not scuffed better card.

I understand that when an AIO is mounted with the pump at the highest point in the loop, it will likely suffer due to air collecting in the pump, which can be bad for the motor/impeller/etc. This is a good reason not to mount rads below the CPU block in most typical AIOs. Problem is, in some (mostly ITX SFF) cases, there is simply no other option. For cases that require an “inverted” orientation as mentioned above, I’m wondering whether it’s enough of a solution to select one of those oddball AIOs that locate the pump in the radiator or inline with the tubes? Certainly this would protect the pump, keeping it submerged in liquid. However, any air in the loop is still going to find its way to the CPU block, which will eventually hurt cooling potential, correct? This would hurt thermal performance and could potentially even damage the CPU block as plastics are exposed to heat that can’t be dissipated by the liquid as designed. I doubt it would be a problem from day one (assuming you get a reasonably full AIO) but as permeation occurs and more air finds its way into the system, I can imagine that the relatively weak impeller pump would struggle to push liquid across a dried out CPU block. In fact if this were the case, wouldn’t you still eventually see too much strain on the pump, if it has to work harder and harder with degrading results? I’m kind of wondering... if I already don’t have any other options aside from the inverted orientation (CPU block up top), does it even matter where the pump is?

Hey, so I'm building a loop for my brother's PC. We're using an NZXT H200i, so to save space on the pump, we bought this combo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html after Optimum Techs good review of it. However, the pump acts weirdly, for example, it just wont pump water most of the time. The motor is spinning, but it just doesn't push water. Then other times, it pumps but at a very slow flow. I say 10% of the time we could get it to spin normally. When it was in the system, tilting it to the front and power cycling a dozen times we got it to spin quickly as it should. When it spins quickly, the speed control and everything works. But after draining the loop, looking at the pump, and seeing nothing physically wrong, we can not get it to spin at the proper speed outside the case. I recorded a video of it spinning slowly, hence having bad flow and being quiet, and while the system was tilted and it going "fast". Sorry for the bad phone quality. Is this pump defective and we should return it? Thanks for the help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvFvfVuEYfc&ab_channel=Gecko.

Hey all. I purchased a 980ti hybrid from EVGA almost six years ago, and lately my temps have been pretty toasty compared to a year or so ago. I used to sit around the low 30s at idle and maybe 50 or so under load, but now I've noticed that even under just general web browsing, my temps increase steadily until they hit the low 50s and then plateau; they won't get any lower after my system has been on for any length of time. Under real loads (gaming, torture test, etc) they get into the high 60s but never cools below 50. I understand that thermally the card is in no danger until well above 80, but still the numbers are concerning. The tubing is VERY warm even under idle though I do feel the liquid moving, and the rear exhaust is also very warm. Adjusting the fan does nothing (even ramping it up to 100%) to cool the card. I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't trust myself to tear it apart...but what do you guys think? The GPU market is chaotic right now and I really would rather not purchase another card if I don't have to. I'm using Precision X1 to monitor the temps and make adjustments. I also swapped the original fan that came with it for a Noctua one that is designed for radiator use, and that is plugged directly into the motherboard. I've cleared dust out with some compressed air the best I could. I've also ran the card at stock and have never overclocked it since the day I got it; I literally plopped it into my system and never touched it apart from cleaning it every so often. As a side note, this is a brand new system I put together only a couple weeks ago. I switched teams to Ryzen. I don't know if that matters or not. The case is a TUF GT501 and has three intake fans, a rear exhaust w/ radiator for the GPU and top exhaust for my CPU AIO. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you. EDIT: I ran a GPU specific benchmark (Heaven) and my temps slowly climbed until they hit their max safe temp (83 set my X1).