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Stats first, more intimate details later Budget: USD$3000-3500, ready and set aside Location: US, Delaware (No Sales Tax) Games, programs/workloads: For games, the higher intensity titles are Cyberpunk (with Ray-Tracing), Red Dead Redemption 2, Highly Modded Bethesda titles (like Skyrim with ENB filters and 4k+ textures), and I'd like to foray into VR later. Aside from games, music/audio production will also be a use case (hobbyist, not professional), so DAWs with multiple VST loads may also pop up on occasion. Existing Build, Circa Early 2019 CPU: Intel Core i9 9900k MB: Asus Prime z390A Graphics Card: EVGA RTX2060 Memory: 2*8GB Corsair Vengeance ddr4 Storage: WD Black 250GB NVMe for boot drive, and some Teamgroup AX 2.5in drives for other storage PSU: Corsair RM850 Cooling: DeepCool Castle 360ex, with some Noctua NF-f12s on the radiator, and various corsair fans for style elsewhere in the case Case: Thermaltake Commander c33 Accessories/Peripherals (keeping): 1440p Monitor at 144hz, USB audio interface, and Corsair Keyboard+Mouse. Other music equipment also uses USB ports, along with an external SSD bay for backups. Ok, now for the freeform stuff. Forgive me, I like to be thorough and have been known to fail at summarizing (I once filled an entire time block for an English class with my single oral report). Hi there! I built my first PC about 10 years ago now. That i3 2100 and gtx 650 sure held on for a long time, up until I had my first job and built what would become that thing^ (with a few minor part swaps). Now, with way more knowledge and experience from assisting friends' builds, and a sizable budget, I'm wanting to get serious. One more quick thing to mention is that my current PC, as far as I can tell, is fully functional without issue. So selling it to recoup some costs is a possibility, allowing for an increased budget, but not by a ton. The end goal is something that can be quiet when it needs to, such as during music production, without sacrificing high performance when needed in-game. With that in mind, I feel ready to attempt a custom water cooling loop, but it seems that fitting that in budget seems tight, hence the requests for aid. Preferences I have a history with Nvidia and Intel products. Ray tracing performance and DLSS capabilities lock me into team green, but if the price:performance ratio benefits me, Ryzen CPUs are within consideration. Corsair's iCUE ecosystem for RGB is a hard preference as well. I like the layout and my M & KB are Corsair, so I'd like to keep as much of the lighting within that ecosystem as possible, or at least compatible (like with Asus products). This means for the fans and other parts with RGB1, we’re going Corsair, but if there are other brand recommendations for fittings, tubes, or a distribution plate, I'm all ears. If applicable, black component over white If reasonable to find used, throw me the rec, but I'm mostly looking for upper tier, current gen stuff. Not much used market on those. 1 As part of the aesthetics of the build, having an animated display over the CPU block would be cool, but as far as I can tell, the Corsair XC7 LCD makes no mention of uploading GIFs or static images, unlike their AIO coolers. With the limited research I've done otherwise, Thermaltake seems to be the only one that has what I'm looking for in the Pacific MX2. Preselected & Candidate Parts/Models, Plus Questions GPU: RTX 4080 CPU: i7 13700K(KF?), if Intel i9s and 4090s blow out the budget here, and my power bill is painful enough as is. No particular branding on the 4080, but wanting to incorporate it into the loop. Motherboard: I’ve used Asus and Gigabyte boards and it’s gone well. Not attached to that branding either, so anything goes. (can be wi-fi or need an add-in card, other features take priority) Memory:Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 [Speed/Timings TBD] With the prices these days, is there any reason not to just go crazy with two sticks of 32GB (64 total) in dual channel mode? Even higher? Let me know. PSU: I’ve used the Corsair units for a long time with no problems but, they’re PSUs. The only concern is performance. 1000w for headroom/efficiency? Is spending a few extra on an 80+ Plat going to meaningfully help me out in power savings? Storage: Not looking for exact models, but brand or series recommendations for both Sata and NVMe drives are appreciated. Cases: Oh boy, this is by far where I have felt the most lost. Wanting to go for a fully water cooled build, it makes sense that a case with ample size and build room is necessary, which then provides (hopefully) more compatibility with various radiator and fan layouts. The problem arises in trying to find something that fits as close to center on the triangle of Price:Aesthetic:Performance. The Water cooling purchases will also of course depend on the case built in, so we can cross that bridge later. I have a shortlist of cases I’ve come across that sit upwards of the $300 mark: Corsair 7000D Cooler Master Haf 700 Berserk, not Evo* Fractal Meshify 2 XL Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2** Be Quiet Dark base 902 * The Haf 700 is higher up in pricing (~$300), but provides the most options for cooling available, with easy access/detachable mounting locations for fans and radiators **The Enthoo Pro 2 sits down at the lowest cost of these ($160), while still offering a versatile arrangement of cooling options. Downside being that it seems awkward to build in, a worry on my first open loop build. I hope that covers any and all avoidable questions. The priority right now might be confirming a CPU/Motherboard? Intel Gamer Days are still ongoing, so if enough folks vote team blue I can jump on a sale or combo offering. Regardless, thank you internet people, and please make any and all suggestions! I am open to just about anything, goodness knows there are hidden gems out there.

Budget (including currency): Country: North Carolina Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming and common work Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): i currently have a corsair 220T case its a id tower case, gigabyte GA-AB350-Gaming 3 with a ryzen 5 1600X with 24GB of ram. Its all fan cooled with the stock cooler in it but i wanna custom water cool it but i have never water cooled a pc before so i dont know a whole lot about it but i seems to be like a cool thing to do and learn with it but i remebered that in in one of yalls videos that you used quick connect and i would like to have that defiantly in it. For a pump i was looking a the Hydro X Series XD3 RGB Pump/Reservoir Combo, and cpu block Hydro X Series XC7 RGB CPU Water Block. got any suggestions

Hello, I have noticed a couple of times now, that the fluid in my water cooling loop seems to be slowly disappearing, and I noticed it again today. About 1 and a half moths ago I had to top of my distribution plate, as it was not filled to the top, I filled it as much as I could before it would leak out of the fill port. Today, again, I noticed that there is a relatively good amount of room for me to add more water to the plate. My first thought was that there had to be a leak. They system has been fully built for almost half a year, and I thought that it would have been done bleeding a long time ago. I searched everywhere inside of my case, under the case, around it, everywhere water could have made it, and I see no signs of a leak at all. I should also mention that this is my custom hardline loop. I have had a leak in the past (completely different build), with the same bright liquid in it, and it was noticeable right away, even though it was a very small leak. The purple liquid stood out very clearly against the white case. With this build I also have bright purple fluid, and a white case. I am at a loss, because I really don't know how liquid could be leaving the system and showing no signs of a leak. Are there any other possible reason that I could be losing liquid in my loop? Thank you in advance for any advice!

I recently built a new PC to replace my current build and upon boot up at the windows lock screen I lose display signal and my monitor goes to sleep please help: Specs: -Asus Rog VIII Crosshair Formula -AMD Ryzen 9 5900x -WD Black SN850 M.2 1TB x2 -G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600mhz 8gbx4 -Asus Rog Thor 850w PSU -Asus Rog Strix 3080TI OC My motherboard is updated to the newest BIOS. I've tried reseating my gpu and ram. I've also tried booting with 1 stick of ram. I've checked all my psu cables, used different ones, tried an entirely new psu. I've also tried every display port on the gpu including hdmi. At that point I thought maybe I got unlucky and received a DOA gpu so I returned it and got a brand new one but still the same problem occurs. I have also tried different monitors but still nothing. I do not recieve in error beeps or lights on the motherboard. Everything POSTs in the BIOS. PLEASE HELP.

I just built a custom loop on my 011D with Corsair Hydro X series Kit (XH305i RGB). And it includes XD5 pump/Resv and XC7 water block. And also the XT Hardline tubing plus it's fittings. I don't like the XD5 inside my Lian-Li 011D, so I am thinking of going EK-Classic DP Front PC-O11D D-RGB + SPC PWM. And putting it in the front panel so it would look nice and tidy. Does the corsair 14mm fitting fit Ek resv/pump, will it be water tight and Will it work with XT Hardline tubing (14mm)?

Hi, I'm making my first custom water cooled GPU loop and need to make sure that I'm ordering everything I need. Here are the parts: GPU: Palit RTX 3090 GameRock OC, BLOCK: Alphacool Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N RTX 3080/3090 GameRock, PUMP&RESERVOIR: Alphacool Eisbecher D5 250mm Acetal reservoir incl. 1x Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 V.3 (is this a big enough res and will this pump be enough?) RADIATOR: Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 180mm Triple radiator, (this one will need 180mm fan mounts, if you have any recommendations as to where to get these it would be a big help, shipping to EU) TUBING: Alphacool tubing AlphaTube HF 16/10 (3/8"ID) - Ultra Clear 3m (9,8ft) Retailbox, FITTINGS: Alphacool HF 16/10 compression fitting G1/4 - chrome sixpack, (are these the correct size for the rest of my parts and are there enough of them?) COOLANT: distilled water with biocide, (do you recommend any specific biocide, and what's the best ratio for mixing?) CASE: Fractal Torrent, FANS: 180mm fans that come in the case mentioned above Any help with this or any recommendations would be immensely appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I've got a gt 1030 and i would like to water cool it just for fun. does anyone have a water block that would fit?

Once I get a GPU and some nice fans bought, I will be going custom loop shopping for my first ever water cooled build. At first I was just gonna go with EK parts, but than remembered about Corsairs offering and just thought I should probably reach out here and see if there are other manufacturers I should look at. This is mostly spurred on by EK not having the white radiators that I personally would rather have to go with my white 5000d and other parts AND not being entirely sure if Corsair "is good enough" for being costing just as much which is just around $1000. I'm assuming this is in USD, EK shows that but Corsair does not

Is there any reason to wait for the AIB cards to be released, and than get a waterblock for the card I get when one is made, or should I just get the reference design now and not wait as long for a waterblock?

For my 3960x+4*3090 custom water cooling build, I stucked for 2 months. Yesterday, I tried my best to put things together but I think my motherboard just crashed. It is showing 00 now. Now I have to tear everything apart and get a new motherboard which is likely to be another 3 months for me. Does anyone know any professional water-cooled pc building team in NYC?

I just bought a new Kraken Z73 from microcenter, but it doesn’t seem to be doing its job. I went to install windows on my new build today, and when I came back to my computer it was in the BIOS because it safety shut off from the CPU getting to hot. It was idling at 55 C in the BIOS. Neither of the tubes for the AIO felt cold, and when I touched the pump, it wasn’t vibrating. I restarted the pc, and noticed when I first start the pc, the pump vibrates for a second, and then goes still. I have gone over the internet and I cannot find out what is wrong with the pump, and I’m worried I will have to get a new one. I’m using an ASUS X670E-E motherboard, with a 7900X. Things I have tried: •Reseated the SATA power connector •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_FAN header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_OPT header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CHA_FAN header •Set the Q-Fan control DC and PWM to Full •Reseated the pump to the CPU with fresh thermal paste

So I've been looking for a cheap water cooling solution. So let me explain what is going on. From running the folding at home program I can have the cpu or gpu running. However if both are running max at the same time my cpu gets to a uncomfortable temperature (Around 80c). I actually had to clock down from 4.2 Ghz to 4 GHz to help get the temperature under control because before it was getting 90 to 93c. I'm running a amd ryzen 5 3600 with hyper 212 EVO. So I've been looking into a cheap AIO water cooler. I was thinking of just replacing the back case fan with a 120mm radiator. However the product page says there can only be a 240mm radiator mounted on the top. But it looks like the screws in rear looks like can fit one. Am I stuck with a 240mm or can I just do a 120mm on the back fan? I have listed a few I was thinking both 120mm. If I can do the back of the rear fan then that would be easier because removing the plastic off the top of the case I heard can be really annoying (I can't even remove the front it's that hard) My case: https://www.mydiypcusa.com/diypc-gamemax-w-white-dual-usb-3-0-atx-full-tower-gaming-computer-case-with-build-in-5-x-blue-fans-2-x-120mm-led-fan-x-top-2-x-120mm-led-fan-x-front-1-x-120mm-led-fan-x-rear-water-cooling-ready Img source: Unboxing DIYPC Gamemax Computer Case | NXT Level PC on YT Also if I can do the 120mm solution by removing the back fan and doing a radiator on the back which one would you recommend out of these. Or of course If I can't and have to do a 240mm which one should I choose? I want one that is extremely reliable and not known for breaking in like 2 months.

Hey! I recently built a new system and my pump is not cooling the CPU (I went into BIOS after doing some file transfers and it was at 81C) I plugged the pump into the AIO_PUMP slot and the fans on the radiator to CPU_FAN. Is the pump suppose to be in a different slot? On the side note the pump is not lighting up which leads me to believe it's not receiving power. Yet I heard water running when I first turned the system on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Does anyone know if the new AM4 x370 boards are compatible with any of the corsair liquid cool systems, like the H110i?

Im moving to US soon but I have this custom water cooled pc, I want to bring it with me. So how can I transport it to US without damaging anything?

Hi guys, I was just removing some screws from the back of my 1080ti to fit an EK water block. Somehow, I managed to knock something off it. (See image). I immediately started sweating, swearing, and headed straight to plug the card back into my computer. The card puts out a signal and I fired up a game and that works fine too. HOWEVER, I now get a whining noise from the card. Sort of an electrical, high pitched whine noise that changes frequency. The noise is audible when im gaming only. I wouldnt be able to compare it to coil whine because I've never had a card that suffered from it before. The card didn't do this yesterday which is when I bought and tested it. Now I'm worried that I've done enough damage to mean that the card is unsafe to use. Does anyone know what part I have knocked off and what it does? This is an EVGA 1080ti Founders Edition card Cheers Mike

Have had my rig for about 6 months now. The water is now foggy and I've noticed increased bubbles. Is it time to replace my water? How often are you suppose to replace? What's the best way to replace it (was to going to of course do it with system off and unplugged, hopping I can just suck it all out lol, if that's possible??) ( I can power cycle it until all of the water is out I guess??)

Find a seller provides service that customizes copper water cooling loop for a laptop. I'm planning to try the water cooling solution on my old laptop, but worrying about leakage. Have anyone try this before? Some photos from the seller and the comment section, looks promising.

So I am thinking of possibly getting watercooling for my system but I know nothing about it and I do not know if it would be worth it for my system. I currently have a Ryzen 7 1700x CPU and my current cooler is a Noctua NH-D15. I bought it used but it still works pretty well. My case is a NZXT 700i

I haven't found any supplier that carries a water block for an RTX Titan but I have found a water block for an RTX 2080Ti founders edition. Can I use the 2080Ti founders edition block to cool the Titan?

Hi guys I'm planning to buy the Deepcool RF120 3 in 1 Kit and the Deepcool Gammaxx L240 V2 AIO. Now here's the problem, I don't know much about AIO and when I was looking at a video in YouTube I saw that the AIO has lots of connectors like legit lots and I am worried if I can properly connect my RF120 3 in 1 Kit and the AIO to my Gigabyte B450 ITX Aorus Pro Wifi Motherboard. It only has 2 fan headers 1 RGB header and 1 ARGB connector (I don't know if it does have those but in the website it says it has 1 x digital LED strip header 1 x CPU cooler LED strip/RGB LED strip header) I was planning on connecting the 2 fans from the AIO to the RF120 3 in 1 Kit fan header because I think it can connect up to 4 fans though I'm not sure if all 4 are for fans but then there's the header for the lighting, the mobo only has 1 header for 4 pins I think unless I can connect the 4 pins connector to the 3 pins header.

Hey everybody I just want to ask had anybody tried to use ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or any other alcohol instead of using water in water cooling systems?

So, I am planning to diy a watercooling for my old nvidia gigabyte gt 610 which stock is without fans, and test how much can I overclock it. And the cooling part will be a fridge cooler. I am going to buy cpu waterblock for cooling and ziptight it on the gpu, use anti-freeze and use liquid metal on the waterblock. I'm going to buy the block from AliExpress and going to do everything for under 20$, any problems about the plan? Give me some links for the block from AliExpress pliz!

Current Temp: Idle: 30C Load_100%: ≤50C Just wondering if my AIO tube thingies would affect my air's pathway. Thank you in advance.

Hello, I would like to ask If its worth to go full water cool on my new pc (but like in 8 Months). I looked at EK's website and did the configurator thing and it showed around 400 Euros (which i will have hopefully). And its like pump,tubes,fans,radiator like the full package.I wanted to do it long ago. Im interested in overclocking but in the same time the overall picture of the PC (i dont mind extra noise so much). So should i wait till then and make it beautiful or go for a Air cooler instead ?