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Showing results for tags 'water block'.
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Hi, I have 5800x water cooled, temps on stress testing hoovers in mid 70s. All limits disabled and +150mhz. Is it worth upgrading the CPU block, i currently have EKWB Classic block, will new block drastically improves temps?
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Hi, I have the below components 9900K 6800XT 360ml Radiator 140ml Radiator 3x120mm case fans Im only cooling my CPU Suggested orientation 1: 3 case fans intake in front 360mm Radiator at top exaust 140mm Radiator on the back intake This way the 140mm is pulling fresh air into the loop unlike the 360mm which is pulling hot air from the GPU. Suggested orientation 2: 3 case fans on top as exaust 360mm Radiator in front - pull 140mm Radiator on the back as intake - pull Thsi way i get Fresh air into the 360mm and 140mm but may affect tue GPU temps negatively. Any suggestions or advice?
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Hi, Currently I have entry level open loop cooling which is EK S360 Classic kit handling my 9700K at 5.2ghz very well. Yesterday EKWB launched water block for my Aorus 6800xt which can easily draw > 300w and my CPU usually draws 70w to 100w in games. So total of around 350w to 450w power draw from CPU and GPU. I dont want to get the block which will cost around 300USD with delivery and not get the temps expected. Currently my GPU rarely reaches 70c on stock fan curve which is around 45%. Thanks
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Hi, I was able to find water block for GB gaming edition not Aorus, and the Aorus dont have reference edition PCB. Thanks
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So basically i have a old Compaq Presario cq57 and i currently have Intel Core i5-2430M CPU 2 cores/ 4 threads @ 2.40GHz with intel hd 3000 graphics and 8gbs of ram which isn't to good so i want to upgrade to a Intel Core i7-3610QE 4 core/ 8 thread @ 2.30Ghz with intel hd 4000 graphics and possibly 16gbs of ram but I'm afraid if i do my cooling wont be enough for it and i checked the new CPU supports the socket and the chipset which is a Mobile Intel HM65 Express Chipset and its compactable but i need good cooling so I was wondering if there a way to water cool it so it can run really good and once I'm able to buy a new computer i can take the rad, res and, pump and throwing in my new pc but I'm having trouble trying to find a water block for my socket I know it sounds dumb but I'm doing cause my pc is kind of crappy rn and also it will be a cool learning experience and hopefully i can fix it up abit
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I bought a inno3d rtx 2070 super twin X2 oc and am planning on water cooling my build I went onto corsairs website and looked up a water block that would be compatible with my card and it said that there was a block that would work but after I received it it certainly does not fit what do I do now and is there actually a block for this card ?
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What would be a good water block for my: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3090 24 GB GAMING OC I've looked around but not found a lot and most that i saw where brands i've never heard of. Asking for advice.
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- water block
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I'm planning to eventually purchase an RTX 4090 (original gen or Ti), but I'm unsure as to which AIB to purchase or if to just purchase the FE. They all look pretty much the same, and my plan is to integrate whichever one I use into my future water cooled system. I'm planning on using the Alphacool Eisbaer and Eiswolf setup, so I can easily swap in a new water block if/when I swap out my current GPU. Obviously, some have different numbers of ports and wildly varying price, but my biggest concern is whether the maker of the variation of the 4090 really matters if I'm just going to remove the original attached cooling option.
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So I've just ordered a 1080 ti ArcticStorm edition, and its arriving tomorrow, but im a bit worried. https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-arcticstorm It mentions a direct copper contact, but doesnt say what the block is made from. However, on the previous model for the 1080 arcticstorm, it says that its a "lightweight aluminium block".....aluminium.....in a watercooling block with a direct copper contact: Surely this is just a recipie for a nice big corroded hole in the block? edit: Just got an email back from zotac. The block is nickel plated copper. The backplate and silver accent on the cover is aluminium
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Let me tell you a little story about how I was a genius making awesome cooling in a tight space. So if you haven't seen my build, check it out ----> Basically, I decided to upgrade from air cooling to an AIO for my i7 4770k, in a retro IBM case. In order to fit the 120mm radiator of the Fractal Design Kelvin T12 AIO I needed to remove the stock blower fan cooling the GTX 970. Lucky for me the EK Waterblock for GTX970 was recently discontinued, so old stock was going out cheap, I mean $30 cheap. I grabbed it! Yeah! So now the GTX970 and 4770k are water cooled by a FD Kelvin T12, and under full load sit around 63-65 degrees celcius max. Awesome! Oh noes! A wild problem appears! After about a month of gaming and occasional mining suddenly the graphics card starts going whack-job and the display goes funny if not completely blank. I'm freaking out, did I damage the card on the install? I'm freaking out, my graphics card is dying... Then I thought, hey maybe it's the gallium Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal I so ingeniously used as a thermal interface material for the GTX970 water block. I frantically take out the card, unscrew the water block and BAM! Yep, nice shiny balls of gallium scattered all over. So, turns out nickel plated water blocks are really hard for gallium to stick to. It just tends to float around onto, even after scuffing the surface of the contact point. I cleaned up the card with a spray electrical contact and parts cleaner, a clean rag and patience, and did the same for the water block. I then used EK's thermal paste and reinstalled the water block. Fingers crossed, reinstalled the card, booted the system and walah! It works! So far, so good. Moral of the story, if you can't get a good, sticky contact of liquid metal, and there's a chance it will get into very nearby contacts, use something else or take better precautions than I did. I'm a very lucky camper.
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Hello everyone, I search a full cover waterblock for my rx480 8go armor edition. I looked on the ekwb website but they dont have it ?. Can you help me ?
- 13 replies
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So, I'm new here and I had the idea of taking an Antec Kuhler 1250 which has the pumps in the radiator assembly then cutting the tubes at the CPU block and plugging them into an EKWB 2080 waterblock. Anyone see any issues?
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Ok I have a GTX 1070 with not back plate. Does anyone know if I can use the normal backplate with the Ekwb GTX fe edition water. I don't want to have to get a new backplate if I can just use the black plastic one I have now that matches the black water block scheme I have.
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I recently got a Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2070. I have been wanting to overclock better and also have a better looking system. I want to get custom watercooling. I am a beginner so I know little. Also I can’t find and blocks for my gpu. I looked on ek and alphacool. They didn’t have any for rtx 2070. Do you think any 2080 or 2080 ti blocks will work? Also any tips for beginners? I am planning to use soft tubes. GPU: https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814932091?ignorebbr=true&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-Mobile-_-pla-_-Video+Card+-+Nvidia-_-N82E16814932091&gclid=Cj0KCQiApvbhBRDXARIsALnNoK2Y8WWc7bpJBvnU77RjtF6KtDrcyeHIGjjgyWH7-SpeyVdJt1a3POIaAtW3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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How hard can making your own water block be? Actually not too hard if you have a CNC Router... Also really hard when you have a Linus... CAD: https://lmg.gg/WaterBlock Buy Single Flute Bit. On Amazon: http://geni.us/nAxR Buy CPU Water Block On Amazon: http://geni.us/QQAVw On Newegg: http://geni.us/9ADQ
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I want to get a 2080 ti and put a water block on it. However, with the...issues...that the 20xx series cards can have, I don't want to end up with a $1300 paper weight. I have heard that some manufacturers will honor an RMA even if you take their cooler off to install a water block. Some will not. I don't feel that it should be fair to not honor an RMA needed due to an issue with the card itself, that had nothing to do with the cooler/putting a water block on it. But, I understand why manufacturers would say "nope." If anyone has any experience/can confirm either way for specific manufacturers, I'd appreciate it. I know that finding MTBF and PPM for defective cards is an impossible task - it's not like NVidia will make that kind of information public, to the extent that I could get a card and run it for any amount of time with the stock cooler, then feel confident that my card isn't defective. Just trying to make as protected an investment as I can. Thanks in advance!
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Im looking at the 1660ti for my next gpu, its the perfect price point and performance to upgrade from my r9 380 4g card. But im looking at potentially setting up a watercooling loop in the future, and your usually safest going with a FE or sapphire card if you want to find a water block, but 1660ti has no FE, Do you think we'll be able to find a water block for the 1660ti, and which models do you think will be most likely? Just curious, i want to get the short card to try a tiny case build.
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I haven't found any supplier that carries a water block for an RTX Titan but I have found a water block for an RTX 2080Ti founders edition. Can I use the 2080Ti founders edition block to cool the Titan?
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So, here's the plan. I'm designing a custom case, and I'm wondering if it's possible to take the mounting plate off of the graphics card and just mount it directly to the case with the screw holes that held it on. The card is an Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Turbo. The reason I'm using specifically this card is because it doesn't have two rows of connectors. In theory, if I put a water block on it and mount it in this way with a riser cable, I can flush the water block up to the outside through a hole in the case wall. Anyone tried this or see any issues with it?
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I'm looking after a Water Block for my ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Mini, I found one from Bykski but is it any good? (Link below) Am very worried that it just some China Crap again like there Pumps, so wanted to make sure this time if someone actually tried them/it out. AliEx: Bykski-Full-Coverage-GPU-Water-Block-For-ZOTAC-GeForce-GTX-1080Ti-Mini-Graphis-Card-Radiator-N Amazon: Bykski-Water-Cooling-GeForce-1080Ti I was looking for a Clear Waterblock that doesn't cost Thousands of Dollers and keeps the Small form factor. Thanks.
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Hey guys, I'm looking to buy one of these waterblocks from ek specifically for Gigabyte's 980 Ti Windforce edition. I'm really desperate for one since I already have one for my sli setup and I just need one more. Does ANYONE know WHERE I can find one? I've actually looked everywhere and I can't find them at all. This is the model I'm looking for: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-wf3-acetal-nickel Any help would greatly be appreciated.
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Hello guys, For my new build I am planning to use an aftermarket thermal solution for my CPU and GPU, I want to water cool them. I was wondering if I can find any info on if I can replace the heat sink with the water block without voiding the warranty, because I know some brands are okay with that and some aren't. Also if you can give me info on the founders editions? Thanks
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Just a few months ago I did a full room water cooling project (similar to Linus's) to eliminate heat and noise from my room, turned out to be pretty successful. However, I have a capture card (Pro Capture HDMI 4K Plus) which still has it's stock fan / cooler on it as there isn't water cooling kits out there for it for obvious reasons. Problem is, this fan is extremely loud and always spinning. On top of a normalish "fan" noise it produces an obnoxious hiss, you can see this complaint on just about any review of the card. This problem is exacerbated in my case as my room is already much more quite than most. While unconventional I was hoping to remove the stock cooler and somehow jimmy rig a CPU waterblock to the card, but I'm a bit worried about the waterblock extending over the edges of the dye and shorting some other part of the board. So I was wondering if one could just cover chips / the board around the dye with non-conductive thermal pads? If I just used thermal paste I don't think the waterblock would be able to tighten down enough against the dye with other raised resistors / chips in it's way. But with these nifty new graphite thermal pads I think it's possible since they have a bit of thickness to them. So basically just cut the graphite thermal pad to the size of the dye, and then surround that with an electrically non-conductive thermal pad of the same thickness (assuming surrounding chips aren't raised higher than the dye, probably buy pads of varying thickness to be safe). Here's super basic picture showing what I mean to do (I know it's trash): Thoughts? Really my main question is can I just slap electrically non-conductive thermal pads around the dye to prevent shortage? But if you have any other ideas / input or don't think this will work for reasons A, B, and C please let me know. Waterblock: http://a.co/0c4W7ve Graphite Pad: http://a.co/23hI1k0 Other Thermal Pads: http://a.co/ffhsiHw
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I'd like to liquid-cool my Quadro P4000. The only block for a Pascal-series card is for the P6000. Any suggestions on how I might proceed? Here's a shot of the PCB: