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I like attaching RaspberryPis to TVs to make them do different kinds of kiosk things. Pis are impossible to find, and pretty much all of our smart TVs are a) already running Linux and b) more than capable of doing more or less what a Pi can do. Hot gluing an SBC onto an already embedded linux computer - just to join them with an HDMI cable - seems like a huge waste of perfectly usable hardware. However, I've run out of ideas how to get into the Linux part of this Vizio "smart" TV. Suggestions of what to do next, where to go looking, or if other brands are perhaps easier to deal with are welcome. thanks! Here's what I do have: * Full serial (UART) console output via a BusPirate, with lots and lots of output. * The CPU is a Mediatek 5583, which is likely just a variant of the 558x made for Vizio? and running an ubuntu-like Linux distro. * onboard storage is 4GB of HS400 eMMC * bootloader is U-Boot 2011.06 * the firmware updater file downloaded from Vizio. the binary blob file looks like two sections: first is a JWT and then what seems like the actual firmware - encrypted. I assume encrypted because the entire remainder of the ~530MB looks like noise. Here's what I know from reading the console output: * As U-Boot does, the first thing it does is gets moved to RAM. It then reads some basic configuration from EEPROM (somewhere) getting the network MAC address (seems to be set in software rather than burned into the hardware) and then immediately disables the UART input: !!!! enable_uart_rx=[0] !!!! Disable UART In: serial Out: serial Err: serial * a USB flash drive will be automatically mounted if present, and uboot(?) will look for several files like MstarUpgrade.bin, SbootUpgrade.bin, MbootUpgrade.bin, and UrsaUpgrade.bin. * during normal operation, the USB flash drive is mounted at /mnt/usb/sda1. * the custom ubuntu is called "ViziOS" and is version 1.3.432.468.0 * there is a shell and/or busy box available, but it's not accessible because the UART rx is disabled * an external keyboard (at least the only Mac keyboard I have around here) seems to be recognized as a present USB device, but is almost always otherwise ignored - it can sometimes be used for input * command injection by using backticks around the wireless network name does _not_ appear to have any effect in this version of the firmware, although it was apparently possible in older versions * Likewise, vulnerabilities around https://<ip_address>:7345/scpl/ don't seem to be present anymore * Despite being factory reset and never connected to Netflix ever, since I won't let the tv connect to the internet (it will automatically upgrade the firmware), it (internally) loses its mind because it can't send telemetry to Netflix. That's another big reason I'm not at all satisfied to just "throw a chromecast/etc onto an HDMI port and be done with it" - I want to turn off all the telemetry crap. * There are a couple of "secretKey" messages that might be interesting/useful, but I don't know what to do with them [SECRETKEY DBG]in func:getSecretKey line:94 strModelName=Vizio_D32f-J04 [SECRETKEY DBG]out func:getSecretKey line:104 (hashed)strKey=dcaa76a2 strKey.length()=48 * When there is no USB drive present, the following network ports are listening: 7345/tcp 8005/tcp 9223/tcp 56789/tcp 56790/tcp * However, when the drive is removed, 36675/tcp is also listening. * Lastly, there's old firmware sourcecode on github, but honestly I have no idea what to do with it or if I even could. There is no obviously accessible EEPROM on the board. I suspect that it's probably part of the SOC. Both the eMMC and the SOC are BGA chips, so there's no way to probe them directly even if I understood how to do such a thing.

I've recently bought my first 4k tv, an LG C1, awesome tv, but i've noticed that the audio is not good enough (i have to constantly turn the volume to 70-80% and even then the voices are low in comparison), so i am looking at either a soundbar or bookshelf speakers, my 2 main options at the moment are: VIZIO M-Series 5.1 M51ax-J6 Edifier S1000MKII Honestly i don't have too much experience so i would like to read your comments, which one is the best, do i need for example an amplifier to connect the speakers to the TV?, other options. Will the 5.1 setup on the vizio be much better than the 2.1 on the bookshelf speakers?. Are the dolby atmos, dtx, eARC specifications on the soundbar actually worth it ? I've tried researching about this topic and it looks that soundbars are easier to setup but worse in performance than the speakers, but on the other hand, i have absolutely no idea how amplifiers work or how i should decide one or even IF i need one. It will mainly be used for movies, series, youtube videos and podcasts

Hi all - Me and my family have had 1080P TVs for the longest time and never really saw a need for a new TV until one day we were walking through our local PCRichards for appliances and saw the 4K LG OLED TVs and they definitely convinced us to upgrade. We are NOT looking to spend OLED money however as we don't have $1300+ to spend on a TV unfortunately. We would like to be around $650 maximum for the TV. We would prefer LG as the brand but if you guys have better recommendations please let me know. Some preferred specs would be: >4K >55+ inches >integrated speakers that are decent would be nice but are not a must Thank you for any Information

Hello, So I think there may be an issue with the HDMI port on my GPU. Whenever I first got it and installed it (Seemingly by a notification miracle...) I was using a 55" Vizio tv off to the side occasionally that was a few years old. I began noticing an issue where the signal will randomly cut out every few minutes and give a few seconds with a black screen, with everything else working fine. Now, I have monitors plugged into the Displayport slots, and I never have any signal loss or issues. I thought that the issue was my Vizio TV. But now, I have a new Samsung Q80T, and the same thing happens. I'm now using different cables than before, HDMI 2.1, and trying to do 4k 120HZ, but it's quite frustrating playing anything on this, as the signal will frequently cut out at the worst time. So I can't help but wonder if it's a problem with my GPU or the HDMI port. My HOPE is that someone may have had a similar issue, and found a setting that needed to be changed, whether it be in display settings or nvidia control panel. Does anyone have a solution to offer? Thanks in advance, Daniel

So as the title suggests i need a little help in choosing a new tv. The one i have now is a 55in Hisense 50H6D witch has decided to start turning itself off whenever i want to watch hdr content. Ive been looking at a couple vizios including the M65Q6-J09 and the M70Q7-J03. My only problem is i cant seem to get a strait answer on whether the hdmi ports are actually 2.1 or 2.0(relabeled). The product pages say 2.1 but some reviews say they're only 2.0, to complicate matters vizio text tech support say they run at 2.1 speeds. If i could trouble you fine folk for some help clarifying that it would be amazing, also any suggestions for other tvs at the sub $1,000 price tag are welcome. My only requirements are that they have 3 hdmi ports minimum and dolby vision hdr (also component connections would be amazing but not a requirment as i can get an adapter if necessary).

Hey Forum, Looking to buy a new TV for watching stuff from streaming services. Could use some help since there are so many options from so many companies. I see various posts on slickdeals all the time and there are so many different options from Samsung, LG, VIZIO, TCL, etc. Is there a link to describe the differences the different tiers of each manufacturer? Couldn't really find anything and a lot of guides are straight to best in class that don't necessarily fit my budget. A few other pieces of info: - I am using an NVIDIA shield, no cable tv service, just internet - i don't care about built in apps - Budget has a hard cap at $650 not including tax - I live in NYC so $ and looking to buy from Amazon, Best Buy or Walmart (I get 5x points) - I am not going to game with it - I don't really care about OLED - I don't really care about HDR - I don't care about a "future proof" display Thanks in advance and if there are any questions that might help inform a recommendation, let me know.

After building my htpc, I come to find that my 65" 4k won't consistently and automatically retrieve the hdmi signal from the pc itself. Every time i turn both tv and pc on, I get the asrock mobo logo. Then blank... No signal. I then have to reconnect the hdmi (pc side) to get the window login screen. Sometimes, if that doesn't work, i have to reboot the pc. At that point, I'm golden. The problem is that I'm only successful 2 out of 5 reconnects or reboots. Oh and I also lose signal after exiting a game. At that point I have to reboot and hope I get signal. I read a thread with a similar issue and the op mentioned the possibility of buying a sort of hdmi display repeater device but that was $129 on Amazon... I obviously don't want to spend that much and am praying that a more experienced individual could present a possible solution maybe in regards to certain settings in my pc or tv? Thank you all so much for your time!

So here's the story: The built-in speakers on my TV stopped working, but the audio still works on my cable box (I checked it with another TV). I bought a Vizio Soundbar so that I wouldn't have to get a whole new TV. Well, when I got it, I realized I had forgotten that the cable box stays on after the TV turns off (so that it can keep recording things), and that means that the soudbar, plugged into the cable box, will keep playing sound even after the TV is off. I tried plugging the soundbar into the TV, but neither of the outputs worked, nor did changing the input on the soundbar or any of the settings on the TV, which probably means that it is not just the speakers but rather the whole sound system of the TV that's shot. Luckily, I had a Surge Protector laying around that has a Switching feature: Basically, you plug the TV into the control outlet on it, and that means the other devices in the power strip mirror the activity state of the TV. While this solves the problem of the sound staying on after the TV is off, I'm worried that just cutting the power like this will hurt the soundbar, as opposed to pressing the power button and letting it shutoff cleanly. So I suppose there are a couple of questions here: Do Surge Protectors with this switching feature generally perform a Cold Shut Down (just cutting the power), or a warm shutdown? I can't seem to tell any difference between the Surge Protector turning it off (the supposed Cold Shutdown) or me pressing the power button (the Warm Shutdown), but I'm not sure. Would this cold shutdown be harmful to the Soundbar? Is there anything else I could try to get the Soundbar to work when plugged into the TV, as this would be the optimal solution?

I am not so sure on whether I should use a monitor and a TV side by side, or just use 1 monitor. I plan to do multi-tasking and streaming games when I get my PC and setup done. The displays I currently have: http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=bsd&cs=04&sku=210-AIWG&dgc=ST&acd=12309152537501410&ven1=sbexuRMNm&ven2=,&ven3=104603745120679921 https://support.vizio.com/s/article/M550NV-Model-Information I do have some cheap monitors that I found online: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acer-G226HQL-21-5-Inch-Screen-LED-Monitor-New-/381859929375?hash=item58e8a01d1f:g:OaQAAOSw4GVYNqka http://www.ebay.com/itm/252629301934?rmvSB=true Should I go with the Dell and the Vizio? Just the Dell, or buy a second monitor? Suggestions for other cheap monitors welcome! Would like to have HDMI, or DisplayPort! I would also like it to be under $150.

Hey guys, So I have a Samsung KS8500 and I was wondering what would be the best bang for my one hundred dollars, it can be a bit higher, but nothing too over the budget. I've been looking at some older Vizio 3.1 soundbars for my budget (I'm fine buying pre-owned), but then also see these "systems" than are 5.1 surround sound but are way cheaper than their soundbar alternative.. So.. What do you guys say? Needs: Bluetooth/Wireless, So I can play stuff from my phone, I don't care if I need to connect a cable to my tv or not. Just need bluetooth so my phone can connect to it. At least one subwoofer Under 100$ USD, I'm fine with ebay pre-owned equipment, as long as it's not too old.. Nothing too crazy, I still have to make my tv area generally nice, so nothing to exotic.. Don't care about brand, even if it's from RCA.. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2FTjuhtMnYZT1ZXOFVHY2ttTFE/view?usp=sharing

Hello All! I've got a great new 4k vizio p-series tv that I am trying to cast content onto. Here's the problem: I use a VPN on the android tablet remote that came with the TV (using IPVANISH & their VPN app). When the VPN is activated, I can no longer control the TV from the tablet. I have seen solutions such as setting up a VPN wifi network from your pc or running the VPN through a router, but with my current hardware neither of these solutions will work for me. Any ideas on how to control the TV while simultaneously running the VPN? Can't figure out for the life of me how to get it to work. Any guess is much appreciated.

So I want to watch a movie on my tv, but the hdmi port on my gtx960 won't work? its worked before but all of the sudden it stopped working i already have two displays plugged in (one dvi-vga and one dp-vga), but that shouldn't be a problem since it worked before while the other two monitors were plugged in... doe's anyone have an idea on whats happened? thanks, Andrew

So I'm looking at getting a new TV for my houses living room, and I was looking at the vizio Quantum TVs......Mainly the M series and P series.....now here is my main question.....I figured the 55 in is the best size for both 4k and my living room. Now I'm looking at the M Series 55 in and the P series 55 in The price difference from what I could tell was mainly in their refresh rates. The M series has a standard 60hz refresh rate with their automotion 120 or whatever they call it. The P series has a natural 120hz refresh and a automtion 720 still dont understand the point of those things. My main question is which is better do you think? saving the 150 to get a 4k 60hz or spend the extra money on a 4k 120?

I have been debating if I should replacey JBL Bar 5.1 sound bar with a newer sound bar that is compatible with Dolby Atmos. I plan on mounting the sound bar to the TV wall mount itself. I was originally looking at either the Vizio 5.1.4 sound bar system or the Sony HTZ9F sound bar since I get $200 off the $899 price tag and then add the two rear speakers at a later date. I had looked at the LG and the Samsung bars and they are not recommending that I mount the bar under the TV. Sony Htz9f: https://www.sony.com/electronics/sound-bars/ht-z9f Vizio 5.1.4: https://www.vizio.com/sb46514f6.html

Ok, I am super heated right now, but will try not to let that color this post. THE VIZIO APP IS COMPLETE TRASH. IT IS THE ONLY COMPLAINT I HAVE ABOUT THE TV. GET A REAL F@CKING REMOTE, VIZIO! So what happened was that I noticed that the sound seemed much weaker than before. At first I thought it was the source or that I had fans running, but it never really got better with different sources or with the fan off. So I opened the garbage remote app Vizio has (btw the POS tablet that came with my TV has never worked and I've had to use my phone) and went into the Audio settings. After playing around in there and not fixing the issue I just happened to select to Turn Off Speakers just because. Well guess what. Now the dam app says Device Not Connected when trying to use the Audio controls. Everything else f@cking works. Want to adjust the screen? Works. Want to change inputs? Works. Why the f@ck would turning off the speakers on the TV make the FUCKING REMOTE APP NO LONGER SEE THE FUCKING DEVICE? HOW THE FUCK AM I SUPPOSED TO TURN THE FUCKING SPEAKERS BACK ON?!? I'm sorry for my language.

I have a Vizio P75-F1 with the infamous black screen of death. The TV powers up, shows the Vizio logo like normal. Then the picture goes black, but the backlight remains on. When doing a factory reset, (Hold Vol Down + Input for 10 sec, release Vol Down and continue to hold Input). The TV will reboot multiple times, but nothing changes. This has happened a few times since I got the TV, but always managed to snap out of it relatively quickly until now. Been at this several weeks now. On my 3rd replacement Main Board. First one showed the Vizio logo, then went black, but unlike the original, the backlight turned off. Second was totally dead. Couldn't even get the logo to display. Third board acted exactly like the original board. (Vizio logo, goes black, backlight stays on.) Two replacement Power boards don't seem to have any effect. A replacement T-Con board didn't seem to have any effect either. I have not replaced the LED driver board, as the Flashlight test reveals nothing. And I know the panel is good, as the Vizio logo is displayed normally when the TV first boots. And yes, I did mix and match several of those boards before sending them back. Do you have anything you can suggest? I have a multimeter, but I admit I'm not very familiar with checking voltages. Things like knowing what setting I should set the multimeter to, and what spots to check would be great to know. Pictures would be a bonus. EDIT: I ended up buying a whole new set of boards (Power board, T-Con, LED Driver, and Main board) on ShopJimmy with zero luck. Same thing. Again, when it powers up, the logo comes up fine. Backlight too. So I'm sure the panel is fine. But I've literally replaced everything else, and I have NO IDEA what else it could be. There's no way I got that many dud boards. Please help! EDIT 2: Tried reinstalling the firmware, but it never seems to get the point that it's reading the data off the USB drive.

Source: Engadget Tom's Guide TL;DR: Vizio TVs will be displaying notifications of a class action lawsuit against the company on affected SmartTVs. Quotes/Excerpts: My Thoughts: An interesting new way to inform users of a class action lawsuit. Generally you'd get a letter in the mail if you had registered the product, now potentially everyone who owns the TV will likely be entering into it. Having been in a couple class action lawsuits myself, it's likely they'll get 1/100th the potential damages per user.

Buy Vizio Sound Bars On Amazon: http://geni.us/gM8C On Newegg: http://geni.us/fCSsLJ4 Buy Sonos Beam on Amazon: Sound bars are a growing category in the home theater space. Some can do multi-room audio. Some can do virtual surround sound. Some, like the new Sonos Beam, even have the Google Assistant or Alexa built in. But what about this best-selling value sound bar from Amazon?

Hey guys, Getting a new TV on Thursday this week. I've narrowed it down to three and the last LG (Third Listed) comes with a $200 rebate card. I don't really know enough about TV's to make a good decision. Is HDR just a joke? Will there be a difference in picture quality between these three? I wanted to get a Vizio E-Seires until I figured out that they don't include a TV-Tuner which is a must for me because I use OTA Television, Netflix, Hulu and various other online streaming services. Is there any other TV's you would recommend instead? If not please help me narrow down my choices of these three! Thanks VIZIO 50 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart TV D50U-D1 UHD TV VIZIO 55 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart TV D55U-D1 UHD TV LG 55 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart TV 55UH6150 UHD TV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMBGGV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Been waiting for this set to go on sale foreverrrrrrrrrrrrr. Add to your cart to additional $50 off if you are a prime member. If you're not a Prime member it's $199.99 which I still would have bought. Amazon just jooged me though. Here's the camelcamelcamel : http://camelcamelcamel.com/VIZIO-SB3851-C0-Wireless-Subwoofer-Satellite/product/B00SMBGGV6

Hi, I just wanted to know if anybody got experience with this TV Screen. I found an offer for this screen at 400$ CAD. It's used (but looks like new) and I'm going to check it out at the guy place. Is there anything I should check out (common problems, etc.) and also Iwould like to have opinions on it. Also is it good to show PC footage (games and videos) at 4k 60hz. And finally I guess the 120hz is only for 1080p upscale? Thank you!