Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'vitalius'.
-
Disclaimers: I'm still learning. I can be wrong. This is not financial or legal advice, just me explaining what I've learned thus far. YMMV, but I'm not responsible for anything this knowledge is used for. All numbers are arbitrary, but somewhat realistic examples. It's confusing. I know. Tis life. I tried my best to explain it accurately. Concise is not something I do unless forced. So I've been learning stock trading basics for a while (terms, patterns, concepts, etc.), and I've been practicing along the way. Unfortunately, my program that I use resets sometimes (randomly) so I can't keep a running total of money lost/earned in this practice. Here is a picture of the program: Currently, I've lost 17% of my (paper, fake, monopoly) money, but this is a long play and I expected something different to happen (the huge dip in the DJIA was unexpected and threw me off). I should start making money Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week on this setup. To kind of help you read the above image, the top left is my totals. They give you $200,000 of paper money to invest, but $100,000 is for one type of trading and the other $100,000 is for the other type of trading. So it's more like I have $100,000 since I only trade with one half of it. Net Liq & Day Trades is what I use, and I don't "do" Day Trading. Right now anyway. I'm keeping an eye on Abbott and Tesla for reasons. I didn't straight up buy stock in either company. I purchased a Put for Abbott and a Call for Tesla. This means I make money if Tesla goes up and if Abbott goes down. Unfortunately, the opposite happened, so I lost like 30%, but it's reversing now. The bottom row of charts is the Weekly charts for Abbott, Tesla, & the Dow Jones Industrial Average (average of the an entire market's performance, not THE market, but A market). The top row is the daily chart for those things. But yeah. Still learning. I was really bummed out that the program reset on me. I had doubled my money on a stock going up $1 by selling Puts (literally, I had $100,000 worth of Puts and after I sold them, I had $200,000+). It was very lucky that the stock moved so strongly, but I knew it would go up. Options are Calls & Puts (There may be more, but I've only learned about these). The easiest analogy I've found to understand them is thus: Calls are Coupons on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a call for TSLA (Tesla) at $250, I have a coupon giving me the right to buy TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. Puts are Price Guarantees on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a put for TSLA at $250, I have a price guarantee that I can sell TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. So Calls are for buying stock, and Puts are for selling stock. If you are wondering how they make money doing that, if I buy a Call for TSLA at $250, but their current Stock Price is $255.50, I will pay $5.50 per Call. Then I will pay $250 per share of stock. So they still get the full price, at the time I purchased the Call, of the stock. However, Calls & Puts can expire. Just like normal Coupons and Price Guarantees. If I buy either of them, but I never buy or sell the stock, I lost money, but not a lot of money (what is $5.50?) That's one way the companies themselves make money on Options. What a Call & Put give you is time. If you think a stock is going up, you can buy a Call (Coupon) to buy that stock at, say $250, but then wait until it hits $300 to buy it at $250. So you know for a fact you are going to profit. Or you can let the Call expire because the stock dropped to $200 and you were wrong about it going up. So buying it at $250 would be stupid as it's currently $200. Options are just that. Options. They buy you time to think about whether you want to buy/sell the stock or not. Just for reference, here is how you make money buying & selling options (Calls & Puts): Buy Calls = You make money if the stock goes up - Because you have a coupon that says you can buy the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $300, you buy it cheaper than it currently is, then sell it for a profit. Buy Puts = You make money if the stock goes down - Because you have a price guarantee that says you can sell the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $200, you can sell it for more than it currently is. Sell Calls = You make money if the stock goes down - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to sell stock to you at $250 or wtv. Sell Puts = You make money if the stock goes up - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to buy stock from you at $250 or wtv. What each scenario does is it basically decides how much money you can profit or lose in the trade. i.e. if I sell a Put, my maximum profit is capped at 100% (double my money), but my maximum loss is infinite (I lose all of my money). However, the reason you would want to sell a Put is because you sold something. You immediately get paid for it, but the amount is small. And it's very likely you will profit, and very unlikely you will lose all your money. These are the things to consider when doing a trade with options: Profit potential (i.e. max profit is 100%, infinite, or what-have-you) Loss Potential (i.e. 100% AKA infinite, or what-have-you) Probability of both of those happening (i.e. odds of profit vs odds of loss) Each of those choices above (Buy Calls, Buy Puts, Sell Calls & Sell Puts) have different values for how much you can earn/lose and what the odds of each thing happening are. That's generally what I've learned so far. This is just practice mode, I'll give an update when I move to real money mode.
-
I just felt like listing everything I intend to do at some point both at work and at home so I could have a list. And I figured I would share that list with people because why not? I'll probably check them off as I go or something and update when I get a major one done. If I have time, forums threads will accompany them if they are cool and I think people will care. Note that what stops me for many of the home ones is money. Also ETC = Estimated Time of Completion, ETA = Estimated Time of Arrival. Note also that all ETA/ETC's are assuming I don't join the Air Force. If I do, then those will obviously change a lot. Some things probably won't even happen. We'll see (If I become a drone pilot, which is totally a thing, I can still live in Texas and have tons of free time, it just all depends on the job). Home projects (ordered by which will get done first, most likely): Start making PCB jewelry and such out of my heaps of circuit/motherboards to sell on itzy and other websites. (ETA: 5/16/2014; ETC: Eventually) This will feed the others and is relatively easy to start and spreads over a long period of time, so it's first. Finish setting up my FreeNAS server with my plugins and such. (ETC: 5/17/2014) This still hasn't been done because I've been busy. It honestly ties with #1, but I'd prefer to complete or at least start #1 first. Thus the order. All I need to do is install the OS and get the plugins to work. I've got to find a stable version though and that's proving difficult. Route Ethernet through the walls in my home. (ETC: 6/21-31/2014) Approximate cost $200 or so in total, I intend to have a patch panel with Cat 6A because future proofing and me having a FreeNAS server for backups and such means I need no bottlenecks. It will also add value to my house, I'm sure. Finish or fix all the renovations going on in my home. (ETC: 5/11/2015) This is something that my step-dad was doing. However, he stopped when my mom died (they were doing it together). Since then, little has been done and most of it is unfinished. I have most of the materials. I just need to have time to do it. This sort of ties with #5, but this doesn't require much monetary input, so this is more likely to happen sooner. Set up Solar Panels on my roof. (ETA/C: Eventually) This has some issues as I have trees EVERYWHERE where I live, so I'm either going to have to trim some, or find a different way or place to mount them, approximate costs are $16,000 but I expect to get some grants and stuff for it too from my local and state government as well as my electricity company. I'm seriously considering an unorthodox and strange looking setup, but at the same time, I don't want to do that. My house would look dumb, and future buyers might not be interested in something like that. Although I do entirely intend to bring my solar panels and thermostat with me if I do move. Work projects (I'm not doing ETA/ETC or descriptions for these because it's work): Finish re-arranging a file server to where all the drives are formatted to allow usage of their total storage capacity, since they are formatted in MBR and not GPT. Finish setting up Roaming Profiles within our Domain. Finish setting up our Ubuntu server to host services like Cacti, Nagios, our internal messaging server-client program, and the like. Upgrade file server in #1 to server grade hardware (it's consumer stuff aside from the HDD's currently). Clean our phone closet and arrange all wires neatly (this will take FOREVER). My Gaming PC specific Projects: Buy a Logitech G502 (ETA: 7/11/2014 I love this mouse so much. :D The only negatives for me is the lack of a pinky rest and the blue light (only option), but I use that to maneuver my mouse anyway and it kind of goes with white/black anyway respectively. I may sell my current mouse to make up the difference to get this one anyway. I also decided some time ago that my next/final mouse would be a Logitech one after I watched a video of one of their engineers explaining the intricacies of Mice designing. Buy a new keyboard (after completing the review/in depth look at my current one) (ETA: 9/11/2014) I'm not sure what I'm going with after this. I only know it will be black or brown switches, full keyboard layout and will have macros. We'll see. I'll update this as I decide. Purchase another reference 290X or sell my current one and get a 295X2 if possible. (ETA: 11/11/2014) Preparing for 4K, and future watercooling. Watercool all the things (ETA: When finances allow) This one is going to take a while. I know what parts I want, how they are going to be set up, and everything, but hey, it's costly to water cool. And that's just counting those 3 categories. I have many more. This is why I'm so busy. :( So many things going on at once *sigh*.
-
Hey, I'm just going to explain how I got the network folders to show up with unique icons on the computers at the office I work at. If you feel like I'm over explaining it, it's just that I prefer to be detailed and share this with others, so I'd like to only write it once. The network shares are on a Synology NAS using Linux but with CIFS/Samba (Windows Network Share Protocol). So I know this works for sure even if Linux is the base OS as long as it's using CIFS/Samba (because those support Windows file permissions). Basically, if you search for "hidden files" in the windows search, you'll get an option that if you click it, will open the menu to show hidden files and folders. If you uncheck "hide system files", a "desktop.ini" will appear on your desktop. If you place this in a folder with instructions to customize the folder, and the server is sharing it via Windows network protocol (CIFS) to a Windows machine, the client machine that's accessing the share will see the share with the unique icon. I didn't have to configure the client machines at all, once I was done with this. It was all server and permission based. The desktop.ini's required settings are explained here: [.ShellClassInfo] *<defines the class of the .ini file.* IconFile=icon.ico *<is the file to be used as custom icon* IconIndex=0 *<is the index of the file to be used as custom icon (in case you are referencing a .dll that has multiple icons but it's required so 0 is the one you want)* InfoTip=401(k) test. *<is a custom tool tip for the file, but I couldn't get this to work on the server. It might be because it's a Linux server, but IDK. YMMV* That's it. The IconFile can be a path (i.e. C:\wtv\icon.ico), variable (i.e. %appdata%\wtv\icon.ico), or just the file itself if it's in the same directory as the .ini. The file to be used as the icon is preferred to be .ico but other image types work I believe. Resolution should be 64x64 as that's optimal. I used GIMP to create those and kept them simple for obvious reasons. Now, actually getting this to work is a bit of a chore in that it requires usage of the command prompt as I don't know how to give a file the system file flag in Windows without it. Essentially what this is doing is it's tricking Windows into thinking the Network Share is local when it's not by putting the desktop.ini file in it and making it a system file. This makes Windows recognize it's unique icon and use it. Note: After it's set up, if you change the file or disable it to make it go back to normal, Windows will have cached the icon image file and won't update without a restart or a long time of waiting AFAIK. Anyway, the way you do is in these steps: Make share with CIFS/Samba protocol. Add share to windows computer. Create unique icon and put it in the folder's directory (i.e. if the network share is F:, then F:\<folder you wish to customize>\icon.ico is where it should be, same with desktop.ini). Copy over the desktop.ini to the base directory of the share (i.e. F:\desktop.ini). Press Super/Windows Key +X and click Command Prompt (not ADMIN, as you need the user who has access to the share, which the Admin does not unless you gave him permission or you gave everyone permission). Change drive to the share. In Windows Command Prompt, changing directory is cd <path>, but changing drive is just typing the drive's letter then colon and hitting enter. i.e. F: then hit enter and it will switch to F:. Then do "cd <path to folder you wish to customize>" and hit enter. This is the part that makes this whole thing work. The issue I struggled with at first. Type (without "s): "attrib +s +h desktop.ini" and hit enter. That will make the desktop.ini file hidden (+h) and a system file (+s). You can do the same to the icon image file, but it's not necessary at all. I do recommend making it hidden just so users can't accidentally delete it. And that's it. It should work fine. Note that you can make other resolution images up to 256x256 or down to 16x16, but Windows has built-in scaling to deal with that. Not really a big deal imo. This should make anyone who connects to this network share get the unique icon as a folder icon 100% of the time so long as the requirements are met (to reiterate): Make icon image file .ico type and one of these resolutions: 16x16, 32x32, 48x48, 64x64, 128x128, 256x256. Make a desktop.ini file with the correct lead in (.ShellClassInfo) and specifying the icon image file as the folder icon (IconFile=Folder.ico), and index set correctly (IconIndex=0). Share the network share from a server that supports CIF/Samba and to a Windows machine (not entirely sure if it would work on Linux, but from what I've seen, it doesn't because desktop.ini is Windows specific even if using CIFS/Samba). Make sure the desktop.ini file is a system file (hidden is just a precaution to keep users form tinkering with it) via "attrib +s desktop.ini". Any questions, just ask. -
I'm dumb basically. Ignore this. I created a thread about an issue I solved immediately after creating it.
-
Hello everyone. I often see people mention how one major component of why it's a good thing to be a PC gamer is that Steam Sales recoup any extra costs in making a decent gaming PC. That consoles can't compete in terms of game price. And how Playstation Plus free games aren't free because you do technically pay for them, which I admit, you do. Note: I primarily game on PC, but I do own a PS2, PS3, PS4, and PSP. However, I wanted to take inventory and really see what I've got so far from being a Playstation Plus member for over 2 years and actively getting the free games (since you have to manually get them in the store and they aren't automatically given to you) for most of that time (I'd say I've missed 20% of the them overall). Here is the image (you'll have to click it to make it readable). To give you an idea, this is effectively $150 spent as 3 years of Playstation Plus is that much (and I have bought it yearly up until recently where I bought the 3 months package). Here is a list of games I actually was happy to get (there are always those you don't care for when you don't have a choice): Limbo Trine 2 Complete Story Binding of Isaac Rebirth Spelunky Dust: An Elysian Tale Transistor inFAMOUS: First Light Injustice: Gods Among Us Valiant Hearts: The Great War MGSV: Ground Zeroes Rocket League Super Meat Boy CounterSpy ModNation Racers: Road Trip Playstation All Stars Royale Gravity Rush God of War: Ascension Sly Cooper: Thieves in Time Twisted Metal (newest one) ICO & Shadow of Colossus Thomas Was Alone Lone Survivor Deadly Premonition: Director's Cut Terraria Payday 2 Grim Fandango Remastered Duke Nukem 3D: Megaton Edition Metro: Last Light Skullgirls Encore NBA 2K14 Bioshock Infinite Dishonored Saint's Row: The Third Batman Arkham City Batman Arkham Asylum Muramasa Rebirth Yakuza 4 Borderlands 2 Darkstalkers Chronicle: The Chaos Tower Monster Hunter Freedome Unite Jet Set Radio Street Fighter X Tekken Resident Evil Chronicles HD Collection Dragon's Dogma: Dark Arisen Thief Hitman Trilogy Mass Effect 2 Dead Space 3 Dragon Age: Origins Crysis 3 Medal of Honor: Warfighter Far Cry 3 Blood Dragon Prototype 2 Persona 4 Arena Ultimax Broforce Uncharted 3's entire single player campaign Hitman Absolution Tell Tale's Walking Dead Season 2 Soul Sacrifice Don't Starve Outlast Note: If you see multiple of the same game in the image of the list, it's either because I got DLC with them (such as Hitman Absolution's silenced pistol) or because I got the game on multiple systems (Vita/PSP, PS3 and PS4) or both. I'd count that personally. Was the above list worth $150? I would say most definitely yes. 70 games for $150 is pretty great (Hitman trilogy counting as 3 and ICO & Shadow of Colossus counting as 2). That's not even considering the discounts you get as a Playstation Plus member as well. Being able to play on the Internet at that point is a bonus (even if I feel it should be free anyway). Of course there were indie games or otherwise games I am not interested in that I got as well, but the above list is only ones I am glad I got (and that list is large and full of AAA titles, even if many are Sony specific ones). If some of you are Playstation Plus members and want to get games for systems you don't own or want to make the process easier, you can go to the following URL and just get all the free games for the month in 1 process (i.e. log in -> add to cart -> checkout) instead of using multiple systems (if that's still required). https://store.playstation.com/#!/en-us/free-games/cid=STORE-MSF77008-PSPLUSFREEGAMES Since you can't get the games for Vita when accessing the store via PS4 (at least I don't think you can, since I haven't tried in ages and it used to be that way), I have always used the above link as it lets me do so. Happy gaming.
-
Hello everyone. The deal includes shipping, so it's really just $0.99. Here is the website (it requires you register an account): http://www.artscow.com Here is the coupon code: Z099MOUSEPADE3VTN Here is where you go on the website to get the deal: http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/99cents-gifts Ctrl + F -> Type "Large Mousepad". Here is my source for it: https://www.reddit.com/r/DealsReddit/comments/3uo3jp/artscow_099_customizable_mousepads_cosmetic_bags/ Yes, the code is still good. I just used it. Note: Due to high volume, it can take 7+ days to ship, so it will take a while to get to you. You were warned. Story time: This forum was started over 3 years ago. I joined 5 Jan 2013, I think a few months after it started up. Some time in that spring, this same deal came up and I bought the following mousepad via this deal: And here it is, ~3 years later: Note: The flash makes the above picture less dirty looking than it really is. It's almost dark brown where my wrist sits. So I think it's time for a new one. Though I think that proves the quality of the mousepad. I took care of it in that I only ever used it. I never put it in the washer or abused it with liquids such as soda or what-have-you. Unfortunately, a new mousepad isn't the only change I've decided on. I am not happy or interested in this forum anymore. It is not a place I enjoy coming to. This is one reason I rarely leave the HS club thread (which is now much less active due to changes in the club). I think part of it is less so me changing (though that's a factor) and more so the forum changing. I can't really do anything about that, but it's life. I have little reason to be here anymore, and due to recent events within the forum, I've decided I'm done coming here. So, with that, I decided also that I'd share this deal one last time as a sort of memento of when I first joined. I'm a sappy person like that. No one will probably care. That's ok. As soon as I'm done with my business here, I'm out. Later everyone.
- 15 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- vitalius
- olden days
- (and 4 more)
-
Hi guys, I figured I'd ask this here since Google is failing me and my testing hasn't given me an answer yet. To make a long story short, I'm playing the latest version of DS:PtD edition on PC. I'm trying to play at 60 FPS with DSFix 2.4. No matter my settings, my monitor will go black while I'm playing. Not black, as in the game is not rendering, but black, as in the monitor is turning off. It's not, because it almost immediately comes back on. If I were to push the power button, it takes a moment for it to turn off and on. But the black it turns is definitely "the backlight is off" and not "the screen is rendering a black image". It is not a monitor issue, however. Any other game is fine. Dark Souls is the only game that causes this. I've tried any resolution from 720p to 1440p. I've tried toggling all other options in DSFix (AA, AO, AF, DoF, etc.) from max to off individually. I've tried turning of texture overrides (as I've been trying to use mods as well). I've even tried turning off FPS delimiter (i.e. able to go beyond 30 FPS cap). That has not fixed it either. I've tried going back to older AMD drivers. That hasn't fixed it either. I've tried monitoring resource usage. Nothing is stressed. CPU is fine. RAM is fine. VRAM is fine. I/O on Storage is fine. Temps are fine. I don't really know what could possibly be the issue. And due to the nature of this game, the issue is game breaking. The screen will go black for anywhere from a split second to 10 seconds. Has anyone else had this issue come up? Anyone find a solution or have heard of others who have? I know I've played Dark Souls with DSFix before, but not on this computer. It is such a strange issue (causing my monitor's backlight to effectively go off) that I just don't even know where to start after all that testing. Thanks, Tremor.
-
So, when I click a quote after it is put into the editor, it always always selects the text portion. Regardless of where I click on the quote. However, if I click on the quote's title or wtv on the outer edge after this, it selects the entire quote. Thus: I can delete it via backspace. So, for some reason, the location based selection isn't working the first time it's clicked on, but every time afterwards, it is.
-
Now, before any of you look at the title, then look at the build and go "... but why?", I am one who prefers to give someone more than they'll ever need. So that if they use it for other things later, it will perform well enough. Plus, you can expect this thing to eventually get viruses. Having more horse power when that inevitably happens would still keep it usable (albeit, that is possibly a bad thing, instead of a good thing).
-
The Silver Contributor is $2.50. The Bronze Contributor is $5.00 I believe that is incorrect.
-
It is a Source made game. Links at the bottom. The entire GoldenEye Source game is free. You don't even need Half Life 2 I think. It's not going to feel like Counter Strike. It's going to feel like N64 Goldeneye.
-
Hi, I'm going to explain the things mentioned in the Title. First, let's get some terms out of the way. IRC - Internet Relay Chat XDCC - Xabi DCC or eXtended DCC CTCP - Client-to-Client protocol So, everyone probably knows what IRC is. It's a chat system developed for the Internet to send messages back and forth (ofc). DCC is a way to transfer files over IRC. XDCC is the extended/enhanced version because DCC can't do large files (or fragmented ones for that matter). And CTCP is just the protocol used to send command requests between IRC clients. It's basically poor man's Usenet (since Usenet can require a subscription to a provider to access certain parts of the network). What do you need to do this? Well: An IRC client (XDCC cannot be used through browser based IRC clients), such as mIRC, KVirc, HexChat, etc. Said client needs to be configured to correctly use XDCC, which just involves going into the options and setting it to accept or ask if you want to accept requests and where to store them (most of them do anyway). An IRC channel/server that has XDCC set up. You also need to know what you can get and where you can get it, so you need a search engine for XDCC (http://sunxdcc.com/ is one example). What you'd use to actually initiate the download of a file is sending a private message to a bot that handles XDCC in the form of: /msg <bot name> xdcc send #<packet number that corresponds to your file> I have seen some bots (not all) support a "batch" function that essentially lets you request multiple packets at once in place of the send command. Uploading works in a similar fashion but it all depends on how your IRC channel/server handles that. Here is a list of all possible XDCC & DCC commands: http://asdf.us/xdcc/ For storing files, you have to be trusted by the server and use send with /xdcc or /dcc instead of requesting from a bot. That link also has the necessary scripts to use XDCC on your own IRC server (if you have one). Usually, if the demand for the file is high, a bot will put you in a queue to wait your turn. However, XDCC transfers can be very high speed. I see 30 MiB/s at times (individually, for multiple files). i.e. I download file 1 @ 30 MiB/s, file 2 @ 25 MiB/s, etc (my download is 400 Mb/s). As you can imagine, like torrents, piracy is a major usage of XDCC, but that's not the focus of this how to. Just using it for whatever is the focus. Just like torrents, XDCC can be used for legitimate purposes. Things to keep in mind and/or be aware of: Most XDCC servers are run on Security Compromised computers. So be careful. Very few, if any, XDCC servers actually support SSL (though SSL via XDCC is a thing). What are the advantages of using XDCC to download a file over a torrent? The files' life span isn't tied to it's popularity. It lives on a server, and as long as the server keeps the file and is up, it is available and will download at the max bandwidth the server has allotted to it. It is not a Swarm, so you don't connect to many other (potentially unsecure) people. Just one, being the server. The ports it uses are different from most default torrent ports, so it's less likely to be QoS'd by your ISP. Here is an article about specifically setting up mIRC to use XDCC. Feel free to ask questions.
-
HNNNG For those of you who would go "but why?" the correct answer is always "but why not?" I stumbled upon this when looking to utilize my monitor's USB 3.0 ports, because I was thinking "what could I use that for?" I thought that was kinda epic.
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
- vitalius
- all the usbs
- (and 4 more)
-
Having a reputation system is kind of pointless if no one uses it. No one will use it if the buttons aren't very noticeable compared to other buttons and essentially "out of the way". This is what we have now: This is what I recommend changing it to (only without the obvious stretching issue): Make the buttons as large as the multi-quote/quote/share/report buttons, and move them to the same line to save space on a page. The only reason I can think of why the two sets of buttons are separated is to differentiate their functionality. i.e. an inexperienced user might think the heart is for favoriting a post, but hovering over it tells you friendly so I think that would quickly take care of itself. It basically just wastes space separating them and keeps them "out of the way". What's the point of a rep system if no one is inclined to use it? I'm not saying beat users over the head with the buttons (i.e. make them colorful and such), but I would think my suggestion would be an improvement.
-
Hi, I've had this issue for a while. What essentially happens is that my screen goes black (as in, backlight is off, not just rendering a black image) and the sound will stop. Then it will come back on after a time of 1-10 seconds. System info: Radeon Software Version - 15.12 Radeon Software Edition - Crimson Graphics Chipset - AMD Radeon (TM) R9 Fury X Memory Size - 4096 MB Memory Type - High Bandwidth Memory (HBM) Core Clock - 1050 MHz Windows Version - Windows 10 Pro 64-bit System Memory - 32 GB CPU Type - Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-5930K CPU @ 3.50GHz When folding it does this. When gaming on some games (not all of them though) it does this. It does not do this when just web browsing or watching videos. I've swapped out the DisplayPort cable. I've switched plugs on the GPU. I've tried going back to older drivers (ones that it didn't do this on). I've tried underclocking the GPU. Nothing fixes it. It does not do this on Debian 8.2 Jessie when playing Linux supported intensive games. If I were an observer, I'd say it was the GPU having issues until I read the "it doesn't do it in Linux" part. Then I'd say it's the drivers, but I tried going back and that didn't fix it. I thought maybe it was the Monitor dying, but it doesn't do this for any other system (PS3, PS4, another gaming PC, etc.). I honestly have no idea what the issue could be at this point as I feel I've troubleshooted every part of the process. Any help is appreciated. I can't game because of this most of the time. Note: If a response is posted that reads as though the poster didn't read this post (i.e. says to do things I already tried), I will report it as spam, because imo that's what they are.
-
[Don't worry, there's news in this post.... somewhere.] This is news (to me) and I think it's fairly important to people who do this. So this can be a warning as well. Moderators, move it if you need to. Anyone who ...
-
This is actually a little bit of work, so I imagine some "easy to use" program exists that does this, but this is how you do it with Performance Monitor in Windows 10. We will be using "monitoring RAM for 1 day" as an example, but this can be used to monitor basically anything. This will store the data as a log that you can graph or read later. Press Windows Key + R Type "perfmon" and hit enter. Expand Data Collector Sets. Right Click User Defined > New > Data Collector Set. Name the Data Set (in our case, RAM 1 Day) and check Create manually. Check Performance Counter. Click Add... > Go to and select Memory (no need to expand it) > Click "Add >>" > Click OK. Change Sample Interval to your preference (I recommend 60 seconds). Note that the smaller the interval, the larger the log file will be. A 2 second interval will be twice the log size of a 1 second interval. But storage is cheap, so if you store the log file on a large drive, go for 1 second. Choose the path where you would like to save the Logs (along with the name of the folder they will be in). Select Open properties for this data collector set > Click Finish. Click Add by Keywords > Type Memory (this is just for record keeping & searching, not necessary at all). Go to Stop Condition > Check Overall Duration > Change to 1 Day > Check Restart the data collector set at limits under Limits > Check Duration and set for 1 Day. (This is what will have it make separate reports for each day) > Click Apply. Right Click RAM 1 Day under User Defined under Data Collector Sets > Click Start. Once a day has passed, this is how you see the Report. Go to Performance Monitor. Expand Reports > User Defined > RAM 1 Day then click the report (usually named your PC's name + the date + the log number). The window should fill with a graph showing everything. Uncheck everything you don't want to see by: Highlight all things you don't want to see > Right Click > Hide Selected Counters. When reading the graph, note the scale. For example, if I have Available MBytes showing, and it's scale is 0.01, and it's at 62 on the graph, I should multiply 62 by 100 (because 100 * 0.01 = 1), so I have 6,200 available Megabytes. This allows multiple things that are orders of magnitude separate to be counted and shown on the same graph. If you want to see a Report before the day is over, Right Click the Data Collector Set and click Stop. Wait a moment, then go view the report. Example: Alternatively, if you just want a generic "System Performance" log that covers everything from CPU to Network packets to RAM to Storage performance etc etc, there's a template under Data Collector Sets > System > System Performance that you can just hit "Right Click > Start" then check later. Just be sure to change the duration in it's Properties as the default is 1 minute. This gives a nice HTML-y looking view in the window with tables and stuff. You can even save the report as a .html file and view it in a browser. Very cool. Examples: You can even modify the logs to be written in Binary, SQL, CSV file, or Tab Separated file.
-
Hi guys, I'm using a system with an Intel Celeron CPU at 3.06GHz. I'm pretty sure the answer is "there is nothing to be done but upgrade hardware", but I thought I'd ask anyway. Basically, if I open anything, at all, CPU usage jumps to 100%. I'm imagining this is a single core system. I've checked other things (RAM, HDD) and they aren't the problem. Are there ways to unburden the CPU enough such that the experience in using this system isn't so slow? I would install Linux or something more lightweight, but proprietary software requires Windows and it's a work computer.
-
Hi guys, To clarify the Title, here is what I want in a phone: OLED display Decent to nice hardware Open platform (meaning I don't have to fight with anything to get something like CyanogenMod on it and it doesn't come with bloatware) I can buy it now. That's it. I imagine the OLED desire knocks it down to like 12 phones or less, and being open knocks it down to 0 (since OnePlus doesn't have OLED and instead has IPS LCD). So, am I out of luck? If I am, I would be fine with foregoing one of them (i.e. no OLED display but satisfies other items). My use cases & other considerations (can be ignored if you want): Call/text Watch Youtube videos and listen to music/audio books If It's good enough, I might even bother to emulate stuff on it. I have a PS4 controller and it connected with Bluetooth (on Android at least) means I could use that and not suck at a game Take high quality pictures & rarely but sometimes video Control my computer (look up Roccat Power Grid) which means WiFi and such Preferably, decent to good battery life I'm not worried about price. Looking for that Goldilocks phone.
-
http://www.amazon.com/WASABI-MANGO-UHD420-Real-HDMI/dp/B00YA5IZS0 >42" >10-bit >4K >IPS >$850 ... how? I don't know what AH-IPS is, but the viewing angles are claimed to be 178 degrees in all directions, which sounds like legit IPS. 10-bit, .... so probably 8-bit with dithering? I mean... I'm just curious. Is this like the Korean monitors? Or is it a Korean monitor? It may as well be a TV at 42". It just seems too good to be true, but the reviews aren't exactly damning. And it supports FreeSync? It does appear to be Korean. https://bbs.danawa.com/view?boardSeq=28&listSeq=2958408
-
Sorry to add on to the Windows 10 threads, but I figured I'd ask since Google isn't being particularly helpful. I've been using Windows 10 through Technical Preview for months. When W10 released, my System Properties page (right click "This PC" > "Properties") states that I have Windows 10 Pro when it used to say I had Windows Technical Preview. Using Speccy, it states I have Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. I didn't realize I'd just get an upgrade that wasn't called TP. Anyway, I'd like to clean install as I've had it for a while and I'm sure my system could use it, but I don't exactly have a normal Product Key. According to Speccy, I do have one. It looks fairly normal, but I imagine trying to clean install Windows 10 then using it won't work, which is what I'm curious about. Anybody know of anyone who has done this and it worked? I wouldn't want to try it, fail, and then have to find another OS or buy one to get Windows 10 again. And I'm not sure if I can get it again through Technical Preview since it's already released. Any help is appreciated.
-
Hi guys. Title. I'm assuming I can disassemble the controller and replace the right stick's mechanism (not sure what it's called), but I thought I'd ask in case someone knows how to do it.
-
Hi, I would like to know if anyone knows of a way to set a windows to accept input even if it's not in focus. AKA, in the background. So say I have Firefox open. I'm typing in Firefox. But I also have Text Editor open and it's also getting the same input. So if I type www.linustechtips.com in Firefox's URL bar, it will also type www.linustechtips.com in Text Editor. I was wondering if Unity or some other Windows Manager could do that. Thanks, Vitalius.
-
If I add two devices to a VPN, will they see each other by default? Say I have two computers. One at my work and one at my home. They are both connected to a VPN I pay for using the same account. Will they be able to communicate as if they are on a local network? The reason I ask is because I don't understand how you get two computers to see each other over WAN as if they are in a LAN. But the way I've read about it, it sounds like that's how it works. If that's not how it works, how does it work, and can I do it if I have access to a VPN?
-
Hi guys, So since the PB238Q's Width is 548.8mm, and the PB287Q's Height is only 380.67mm, the difference is fairly huge, so a 28" 4K monitor isn't what I am looking for then. I believe the optimal setup is where the Portrait monitors' Widths are equal to the Landscape monitor's Height. And to where the Portrait Monitors' horizontal resolution is roughly equal to the Landscape Monitor's vertical resolution. e.g. 4K is 3840 x 2160 while 1080p is 1920x1080, so the difference is only 240 pixels (2160-1920). If we ignored my PB238Q, what setup would you prefer for PLP? Or what monitors do you consider optimal for this kind of configuration?
