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Hello LTT community, I need help with choosing a mouse. I RMA'd my Glorious Model O 2 Wireless because of some skipping/stuttering issue and now I need to decide between GPX2 and Viper V2 Pro. The retailer where I did the RMA only has these 2 brands as options so ofcourse I have to make a pick. I tried the DeathAdder and I just don't like the shape and it feels weird in my hands. I had a viper mini before but I think my hand is too big for that. Right now I have a SteelSeries Rival 3 and it's just so hard to find a consistent grip for FPS games. I mainly play Apex Legends so I need a stable mouse that I'm also able to track with. I was leaning towards Razer Viper V2 Pro a lot, but the issue I had on my Viper Mini was when I scrolled down it would scroll up, so I rma'd it and got the steelseries instead (they were out of stock on viper mini's so I had to pick another). A year later I bought a second hand Glorious Model O 2 Wireless for 40 euro (I was freaking shocked) but the owner claimed it was in mint condition and no defects so I was like ok. It was bought less than 6 months ago so it's still under warranty which is why I was able to send it to RMA. Anyways, I really liked the Glorious Model O 2 shape but the holes kinda bothered me. I have tried the regular Viper in the store and it's ok in my hand, I haven't had a chance to try GPX2 shape though. So what I'm looking for is just quality. At this point I just want a mouse that lasts, I don't want to risk double clicking or scroll wheel issues. I've found threads with both of these mice having similar issues or even their own known issues so now I'm just looking for opinions as I'm very indecisive. I'll post my grip type below... Hand measurements: 20x11 centimeters. My grip is somewhere inbetween claw and fingertip I think, the only part of my palm touching the mouse is my pinky knuckle.
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Hello everyone so i im wondering if this power supply is enough (CoolerMaster MWE 500 WHITE 230V - V2) for this components Gigabyte B450M DS3H Ryzen 3 3200g or 3100 im not sure which one to choose HyperX Fury Black 8GB DDR4 3000MHz CL15 2x8GB RX 560 4GB Western Digital Green M.2 120GB WDS120G2G0B Seagate ST1000DM010 Barracuda and 4 case fans I have almost everything except CPU and RAM and i have that power supply.
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From the album: My PC
No More crappy AMD Stock Fan. -
So, I am going to receive Razer Blackwidow Chroma V2 and I am going to make a review but I have a question first. Am I able to use any O-Ring modification for Cherry MX to make the keyboard more "silent"? It has the new (Greetech) Razer Green Switches that came out with Blackwidow 2016, but I am not sure that the particular o-rings I want are compatible. Here are the specs of the dampeners I want to buy: Hardness: 50A Shore Material: EPDM External diameter: 8.0 mm Inner diameter: 4.8 mm Thickness: 1.6 mm Quantity: 125 pieces
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First AIO I've installed on PC. Temps spike as high as 90C with a few installs and internet browsing. Idle temp 30-35 after I maxed pump speed. No overclock I've taken it apart and re-applied thermal paste, noticed it wasn't mounted flat and found that I installed the backplate wrong from internet searches. Changed it and got my temps down to what they are (was idling at 40+ spiking to 100C) Stress test goes immediately to 98-100C all cores. Pump and fans both seem to be working fine, so I'm thinking I've still installed it wrong. 1. the backplate is loose and the inserts don't screw all the way down to the motherboard, so there is a gap which seems normal and after tightening block on it's not loose. (i'm certain I've used the right inserts, not the black amd, or older 2011 that is short on one side.) 2. thermal paste line method Arctic silver 5 3. idle temps are decent so some cooling is going on, 70c difference between load and idle immediately means something is wrong. I'll take it apart one more time and check the thermal paste to make sure it spread over the center good, and redo the block install. Anyone else have ideas on what I'm doing wrong, or can my chip be that bad?
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Hello! I'm currently using an H100i V2 I bought a year ago. I have had a couple of problems with it. It's idling at 30-35º (was 23-25º when it was new) and under full load it ranges from 45-75º (depending on the test software I'm using). The first time I noticed this problem was a two months ago, when I installed it after a cleaning session, my CPU was idling at 45º and 85º on full load. I read that it may be an issue with a bubble, so I take it off, moved the tubes around, same with radiator and it kinda fixed itself. A couple of days ago, all my fans went to 100% and I had to open the case to check if everything was working correctly, one of the tubes was super hot and the other one was cold, not even close, opened RealTemp and it was showing 65º out of nowhere. I shut down the pc for like 15 minutes, re-checked the tubes and stuff. When i turned it on, it was normal (25-27º), but now it's idling at 30-32º again. Obviously something it's not working properly, and that's strange, because I reapplied thermal paste two days ago (Cooler Master high end, can't remember it's name atm) My rig: - i5 4690k (Stock) - Asus Maximus VII Hero - Nvidia GTX970 Gaming G1 (21º Idle) - NZXT H440 Case (Stock fans) My questions: 1) Is this normal with AIO coolers? 2) Should I take it to the store where I bought it or should I send it directly to Corsair (RMA)? I'm from Peru,btw. 3) If the RMA process is possible, do I have to pay the mailing costs? How does it work? 4) It is normal that one of the tubes is warmer (sometimes a lot) than the other? Or both should stay at the same temp? Kinda confused about this. Thanks in advance!
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So recently I bought a corsair 100i v2 but my temperatures seem really high? CPU: FX 8350 @ stock (waiting for new board to arrive) When I first installed it I got idle temperatures of 24 degrees, but recently the idle temp seems to be around 38-40 degrees.Sometimes touching 50. Any reason why this would be?
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Hello again, community. I am buying a Asus Rampage IV Gene for $155, well i want that because my current deal (Model Number = DX79 V1.0) doesn,t have proper support based on this website My plan for the Board is to pair this all ($793 X79 build) The project R9 Xeon CPU = Xeon E5-2650 v1 | Graphics Card = Asus R9 Fury X Watercooled | Motherboard = Asus Rampage IV Gene | RAM = Kingston HyperX Fury 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600 | Storage = Seagate BarraCuda 1TB HDD (ST1000DM010) - Samsung 850 Evo 250GB SATA SSD - WD 160GB HDD (Free) | PSU = Corsair HX650i 80+ Platinum | Case = Micro ATX OEM | Display = Samsung FHD Curved 40" TV Well why i chose the Rampage? because it is the one that is available but is it worth it? Also when i looked at the E5-2650V2 why did i saw Asus Rampage IV series? Based on This link it is just will the Rampage IV work with the E5-2650 v1? i am confused thank you guys for coming -
Hello Guys. I own an R7 250 v2 from AMD. It has 2GB of GDDR5 memory. I use it mainly for CS:GO. However recently while I'm playing the graphics cards memory clock falls from the usual 4500 while playing CS:GO to 596 Mhz. This is even lower than the base memory clock of 600 Mhz. This results in an FPS drop from 200 to about 50 which falls further as I hop into a match. The issue is fixed by restarting the computer. Can anyone advise me what to do to permanently stop this from happening? I have tried both the OC mode and the regular gaming mode in my GPU Tweak II from ASUS. The issue still persists. Any help is appreciated.
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Hey all, So I've been cooling my system with the Corsair H80i V2. I get 40 degrees Celsius at idle and around 56 under load. From what I've researched, I think I should be getting lower temps... I have a Fractal Design Nano S and an i7 6700K. I've double-checked the thermal paste. I have my system set up in a push-push configuration with two fans on the front and the cooler with the fans mounted on the back. Is this just because of the proximity of the components? Should I change the mounting of my cooler? Should I go for a push-pull config? Any help is appreciated!
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Hello all, I have a Razer Core v2 with a GTX 920 in it and am attempting to connect it to a Dell Precision 7740 (which has two Thunderbolt 3 Type-C ports). I can plug the core into the laptop, windows will do a charm and say the device may not be supported, and that's all that happens... The core will show up in the device manager as a universal serial bus device, but I can not seem to get it to be properly recognized by the system. The documentation for the core says that the host computer needs thunderbolt 3 ports with enabled external graphics support, is this an option I can enable somewhere? I'm lost as to what to do next, thanks in advance for any help!
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Hello all, I have a Razer Core v2 with a GTX 920 in it and am attempting to connect it to a Dell Precision 7740 (which has two Thunderbolt 3 Type-C ports). I can plug the core into the laptop, windows will do a charm and say the device may not be supported, and that's all that happens... The core will show up in the device manager as a universal serial bus device, but I can not seem to get it to be properly recognized by the system. The documentation for the core says that the host computer needs thunderbolt 3 ports with enabled external graphics support, is this an option I can enable somewhere? I'm lost as to what to do next, thanks in advance for any help!
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I recently bought a Corsair hydro series H100i v2 for my i7 6700k but i dont know what the normal water temperature should be? I noticed that when the water reaches 40c the PC goes waay too lound seems that something is overheating.Is there any chance of bad pump or bad radiator?
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My hotbed simply won't heat up. It is upgraded with a Mosfet installed by someone else (bought secondhand). I opened up the box portion with the PSU and saw the power cable to the Mosfet from PSU had fallen out it was so loose. I rewired it with solder and though for sure that was the fix. Put it back together, no go. Bed doesn't raise in temp at all. I take it back apart and now an additional power cable and ground cable going to the mosfet had fallen out. At this point I think for sure this is the problem, and I take out, and properly solder all 4 of the main wires for the mosfet installed, and test all cables relate to the hotbed to make sure are all firmly installed and no looseness. After this, turned on the printer, and it immediately heated like a champ to 70C, and started printing. 1.5 hours into its 5 hour print and the bed temp drops off again, eventually down to ambient. Now its back like it was, not heating up at all even after 25 min. I took it apart, rechecked every cable going to/from the mosfet, and they are all still good. Worth noting before it seemed to randomly work sometimes after sitting for a few days. Seemed to begin working again with no rhyme or reason. Im very confused, printer has been down for almost 1.5 months because I've been busy with other things. Im not sure what some other failure point are. -
Hi, i have a corsair h100i v2 cooler to cool my i7 8700k and i switched the original fans that were 4 pin for Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition 3 pin fans. I know PWM changes the fan speed depending on how hot the cpu is but i dont really care about that, all i want is to change the speed of the fan and make it stay at that speed but at the same time i need them to be connected to the coolers fan connectors. The water cooler has two fan headers, the first one is a normal 4 pin connector the second one is wierd. It goes like this "PIN PIN SPACE PIN" ( * * *). So my question is why can i not change the speed of them?
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Hi Folks, Has anyone had any issues with the V2 Dualshock controllers? I got mine new with my Pro the end of September last year and I am having trouble with the right analogue stick. The physical stick feels fine and snappy but in game if I push the stick up towards north west it will keep my on screen gun/character spinning to the left? Surely I shouldn't be seeing this problem after 6, nearly 7, months of use? Thanks, Gary
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This is a topic for all key switches for the Razer keyboards. Which one do you like best? What are the switches for? This isn't for me this is for someone who is interested in Razer keyboards. THERE WILL BE NO BIAS, GIVE YOUR HONEST OPINION. Favorite keyboard? Favorite switches for it? Why do you use it? Green: Orange: Yelllow: -
I currently own a Corsair 100i v2 - Refurbished. But I keep having lots of issues: I own an FX8350 @ STOCK (plan to overclock) The temperatures are really high, like 40-55 degrees just from browsing the internet and watching youtub - and around 70 degrees underload. Fans are at 50% and pump is at 100%. But if I set the fans to default the fans are really loud too; So is it worth me returning the 100i and getting a refund, then buying an air cooler such as the Cryorig C1 (has to be able to fit in the Corsair Air 240).
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I Have been a hater of the Original ( 2014 ) Razer Greens made by Khail. I loved the Blackwidow V1 keyboard design but the original Green Switches were very unreliable - I remember that the keyboard feel and clicking sound was very uneven across the board - and like I said in another post - some of the keys stopped clicking a few months after purchase and started sounding and feeling like cherry mx browns . now onto Blackwidow Chroma V2 ( 2017 ) - Greetech switches. I bought myself a Xmas present . After going into my local store - Someone was trying out a brand New BW V2 and i gave it a try for about 10 min - I was sold . the new Greetech switches on the V2 are on another level totally compared to the original Razer Greens made by Khail. Very even feeling across the entire keyboard and the clicking sound is also even across all keys - I don't know if I'm one of the lucky ones who got a great keyboard but I'm over the moon with the V2 - it's not perfect - there is still some key wobble to the switches but it's nothing serious and I can live with it - I still feel the quality of the cherry MX Speed switches on my K70 Rapidfire RGB is better than the greetech switches but it's difficult to compare a speed switch with a clicky green switch . all i'm hoping for is that the feel and sound of the switches lasts and doesn't deteriorate with time - the build quality of the BW BTW is on a par with the best that Corsair Has to offer - I own a K70 Vengence and a K70 Rapidfire RGB and I can testify that the Razer Blackwidow V2 is on a par . A lot of people make a big deal about the metal Faceplate on the Corsair keyboards but the Razer BW V2 plastic faceplate has a lovey smudge resistant texture that looks and feels very classy and pleasant to touch Two things I would change on the Blackwidow V2 to make it perfect. 1. change the position of the usb passthrough and headphone / mic jack - move them to the back so they don't get in the way of right handed people using their mouse close to the usb port 2. eliminate key wobble - make the key stems fit better in the sleeve housing to eliminate key wobble. after some inspection - the key wobble has nothing to do with the keycaps - the keycaps fit tightly on the key stem - it's the key stems themselves that don't fit tightly enough in the housing that causes slight key wobble don't get me wrong - the key wobble is very minor - it's barely noticeable but it;s there.
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So I reapplied my thermal paste recently on my Corsair 100i v2 - but my idle temperatures seems to ok at around 35-36 but a few days ago it was 25? But the temperature will also randomly increase to around 50 degrees for a second then go back down to like 36. Under load a few days ago it also maxed at like 45 - today it maxed at 60 and it is not that warm in my room either. A few days ago I didn't have these problems, what could have happened? Thanks.
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Last week I posted this topic about some flags I made for my home state of Pennsylvania. I took the feed back from last week and modified some design made some new ones but here they are. Make sure to look at all of them before voting. Flag 1: Flag 2: Flag 3: Flag 4: Flag 5: Flag 6: Flag 7: Flag 8: Flag 9: Flag 10: Sorry for having more flags than last week.
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Hello guys Does Steelseries Siberia v2 supports 7.1? because i have Realtek Audio HD Manager that i can choose from Stereo to Quadraphonic, 5.1 Speaker, 7.1 Speaker. Can i choose any of them? or ill just stick to Default? like Stereo. i Play Dota 2 and CS:GO
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Hello, Over the past two weeks i have been having an issue in which my steel series Siberia V2 microphone (USB) stops working randomly, in clients such as teamspeak and steam chat as well as in game. I have the latest drivers installed and have tried multiple ways of trouble shooting to no avail. I have ruled out a hardware issue as i have tried the same model of headphone and the problem of cutting out randomly still seems to persist. Any suggestions on fixing the issue?
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First off, i have a tiny head. The best headset to ever fit me were the SteelSeries Siberia V2s, however, i disliked the retractable mic. Right now, i currently have Logitech G930s (wireless "7.1"), but they are massive. The top of the ear-cups sit at the very top of my ears (leaving a lot of space below my ear) due to the design just being pretty big. I have no idea if i could make them smaller in anyway without damaging them, but i'd rather just sell them and pick up another pair of headphones that are a lot more comfy and size appropriate. Comfort/Size is pretty big for me, but audio quality and a boom mic is close behind. Siberia V2s specs Logitech G930s specs So.. Does anyone know if they have had/seen/heard about a decent headset, same size as the Siberia V2s with a boom mic? There are a SHIT ton of options.. but i'm not experienced with good quality sounding headsets. Also, realize that i will not only be using this for mostly gaming, but i'm a Indie game designer as well, and editing my own sounds/music is going to be in the mix as well. Thanks for all the feedback in advance!
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Okay so here's my problem, I can't figure it out but when I lower the volume for game (on the mixer) completely on SteelSeries' Cross Platform Audiomixer, there is still some sound being played through the voice (on the mixer). For those who don't know what this audiomixer does, it separates the volume for game and voice (vent, mumble, etc.) audio. That way I can universally adjust the game and voice volume on-the-fly rather than manually lower the volume for every game to hear my friend speak . My Setup: The mic connects through USB which I plugged in the back of my PC, my headphones are plugged in the front since my speakers are setup in the back. The headphones can be connected through the USB but I prefer the 3.5mm jack. Drivers/Programs: Realtek HD Audio Sound Blaster Cinema 2 USB PnP Sound Device (from SteelSeries) Personal Troubleshooting: So far disabling mic monitoring in Windows (which I need since they're closed headsets and I feel like my ears are popped without them when talking) and turning down the headset volume within Windows volume mixer seems to be the only solution to stop it from playing through the voice side. My speakers are off so mic is not picking any background audio, and I disabled Stereo Mix. Since the USB also sets up the headphones in playback (besides the jack one), I disabled it so there's no background audio being picked up from the mic, however, I got curious and enabled it to disable the sound with in the properties menu and the audio stopped playing through voice. Even though I fixed it and the audio only comes out through game, I couldn't hear myself anymore when I spoke so I had to enable the volume again. In other words, disabling the USB headphones in playback does nothing but disabling the volume with in the levels tab disables mic monitoring. If anyone is up for the challenge or perhaps it's so simple that it went over my head, your help would be appreciated.
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