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Showing results for tags 'usb-c'.
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I've got a client looking for recommendations for monitors, if any, that can be both powered AND given video data over a single USB-C port. Having not needed to search for monitors for a while now I'm honestly a bit out of the loop, as most monitors I know of can only provide power to another device over their USB-C port opposed to powering the monitor. My client would be hooking two of these monitors onto a rolling desktop station via VESA mount and would be connected to a desktop PC. I know he would at least need an adapter to convert HDMI or DisplayPort to USB-C, or even a PCIe-based Thunderbolt 3/4 card for USB-C output with enough power for a monitor, but then the question comes back to if there are any monitors that can take power and video over USB-C. If anybody has recommendations for decent panels that fit this criteria, please let me know.
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My laptop (HP Elitebook 840 G6) experienced some kind of issue when upgrading to Windows 11 and crashed completely. I used a recovery USB to restore it back to a blank Windows 10, however, now several features including and most especially the Video Out for the USB-C\Thunderbolt port no longer work. Not sure if this is meant to be over Thundebolt or USB-C DP Alt mode Device manager is showing issues with an I2C HID Device: This device cannot start. (Code 10) A request for the HID descriptor failed. If it helps, when I apply my USB-C display to another HP (a Probook I borrowed from work), when the display is attached a "Generic PnP Monitor" appears in 'Bluetooth & other devices' - this does no occur on the machine I'm having issue with. Can someone please help me restore this functionality. I've tried all number of different recovery drives and installing many many drivers, but it doesn't seem to work. Please help!
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Hey LTT-community, I have recently bought a new Laptop (Asus Zephyrus G14 (2024)). I wanted something I can carry everywhere and still has some decent gaming performance. But the 240W powerbrick coming with the G14 is a little chonky. However the G14 supports 100W charging over the USB4 port. So I am in the market for a 100W USB-C PD power adapter. I am currently looking at an Anker Prime 100W GaN Wall Charger or Anker 737 Charger (GaNPrime 120W). But now the horror of chosing a decent power cable. I would love to have one cable to do everything. But is that even possible. 100W charging (minimum) 40 Gbps Decent length 6ft (2m) I thought I would have to carry arround two cables. Having 40 Gbps over a length of 2 meters sounds impossible due to signal loss. Untill i came across this cable... Cable Matters 40Gbps Active USB4 Cable - 3m 40 Gbps 100W 3 meters But damn this price... Must be the cost of wanting the one cable to do it all? Or is this just to good to be true? Does LTT still do cable testing? What do you think? Greetz Mussche
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Hi all, I have form my work a dell docking station usbc to use my 2 monitors, keyboard etc... an power supply for the laptop also from my work. I bought a asus gaming laptop but this come whit a 240w power supply. My consern is if I can use the docking station and the power adapter at the same time in my new laptop? Is dangerous use the 2 power sources? There are 2 usb ports in my new laptop 1 usbc4 and 1 usb c dp, 100w delivery... in which I can use the docking station?
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Hey guys! I ran into a setup where I got stuck and couldn't get to either make it work or to find the exact reason why it won't work. So please, help me out if you can! :) The setup: LG UltraFine 4K (24MD4KL-B) display with Thunderbolt 3 + USB-C hub in one of the USB-C ports MacBook Pro (2018) with Thunderbolt 3 connected to the TB3 input with TB3 cable Xiaomi MiBook Air 13.3" (2016) with USB-C 3.1 gen 1 connected to the TB3 input with either TB3 or USB-C cable, Windows 10 The good: The display works like a charm with the MacBook Pro, normal USB devices attached through the USB-C hub are recognized and working, MacBook is charged ---> all with a single TB3 cable The display is getting video/audio signals from the MiBook ---> with TB3 or USB-C 3.1 cable The bad: The display is not charging the MiBook, however both supports PD and the MiBook only needs 45W while the display can charge with up to 85W. I tried with TB3 cable and USB-C 3.1 gen 1 cable with PD support and none of them worked. Yes, the MiBook only has a USB-C 3.1 gen 1 port, but that's where it gets power from the original power brick and it works just fine. Also the USB-C hub and the connected devices are not showing up on the MiBook with Windows 10. The weird: Previously I had a Philips 258B6QUEB display which has USB-C 3.1 gen 1 input and also support PD (up to 60W) and it was working with both the MiBook and the MacBook without an issue (charging as well) and without any additional drivers. The question: So what am I missing? Why is the LG UltraFine not charging my MiBook? As far as I know, TB3 is backward compatible with older USB-C standards and power delivery should work. And although it's not the most important thing to get the USB-C hub working with the MiBook it'd be a nice to have. Any help would be appreciated! Have a good one, Pistabaaa^
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Hi everyone, I have this strange problem with my desktop PC. I have an ASUS PRIME Z690-P WIFI D4, this mobo has a USB-C 3.2 gen2x2 (the 20gigs one) on the backside. If I plug the iPad Pro into this USB port with any USB-C cable, the device does not show up on the Windows file manager, but it charges the device. I tried both the proprietary Apple USB-C 2.0 cable and a UGREEN 3.2 gen2 cable. So I thought the usb-c port simply didn't work, but that's not the case. If I plug on that same port a USB drive shows up and I can transfer files at around 2.5Gbit/s (limited by the USB drive). Then I thought it was the cables, but again no, the gaming controller I use works fine with that port. Then it could be the drivers not seeing the iPad as a device, but if I plug it with a USB-A to C cable it works fine. Moreover, I tried it on 2 different Windows laptops and they both work with the iPad plugged with the UGREEN usb-c cable. I also tried to restart the Apple device drivers on Windows but it didn't work. I'm going crazy trying to figure out what's the problem here, can anyone help me figure out why this thing happening? Thanks a lot, guys!
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I came across this article which dives into research undertaken by Lumafield on the differences between the $129 Apple USB-C cable and the cheapest cables available on the market. It is worth aread. https://www.lumafield.com/article/usb-c-cable-charger-head-to-head-comparison-apple-thunderbolt-amazon-basics https://www.zmescience.com/science/news-science/x-rays-usb-c-cables/
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My 16" M1 Max MacBook Pro (work laptop) and my ThinkPad X1 Yoga (personal Linux laptop) are plugged into a Pluggable Thunderbolt 4 dock. My ASUS TUF VG27AQ1A 1440p monitor flickers constantly when I bump up the refresh rate to any value over 60Hz. I used to plug it into a MSI Optix MAG342CQR (144Hz 1440p ultra-wide) in 1440p @ 100Hz, which worked flawlessly (both work and personal). I have a Steam Deck plugged in via the official Steam Deck dock and it can handle 100Hz PERFECTLY. Only reason why its not more is because of the HDMI switch. Troubleshooting: I made sure to disable variable refresh rate Bypassed my HDMI switch and plugged it directly to the monitor Swapped HDMI cables Any ideas as to why it does this, and what else I can do? It makes no sense that the one with more pixels was more stable.
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First and foremost, the warranty of the keyboard has elapsed (purchased Apr 2021) and Keychron has a strained relationship with after-sales services[1][2][3][4] and reportedly any calls for help fall to deaf ears once the warranty has elapsed so I'm on my own for this one. Apparently, it's "normal" for the USB-C port to feel shaky[5] (though there seems to be opposing claims as well[6]) and while I've felt the port is a bit flimsy at times, it's been mostly fine, until now. If attempting to connect it, the battery light does glow alongside the RGB but no keystrokes are registered, unless the port is wiggled around (and you can wiggle it around quite a bit) till you find a particular angle. Of course, to get at that angle, I have to tilt the board 90 degrees and brute force the sweet spot but even then, I can awkwardly type a few characters before it is no longer "just right" and I lose the ability to type at all. I can still see the RGB but that's not the primary function of a keyboard. I've tried about four different cables, cleaned the USB-C port, connected it without intermediate USB devices (hubs), tried different computers, nothing. This seems to be solidly a keyboard problem. Now, I don't want to throw away this keyboard, I bought it as a "lifetime" keyboard, buying the aluminum model (which thrust upon me RGB that I never wanted but eh, I get it, making multiple SKUs is not very cost effective) and the carrying case but replacing USB-C ports seems... non-trivial[7]. I use a Hackintosh and Bluetooth isn't playing nice so I can't use that. Now what? Sources: -
I have a Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX motherboard, and the rear IO includes USB 3.2 gen 2 type A and USB 3.2 gen 1 type C ports. I’m not gonna be transferring data on those ports, but which one would be better for charging an iPhone? There doesn’t seem to be any specs about power delivery on gigabyte’s product page, and I’ve already looked at lots of other sites and gotten very varied answers. It seems to me that the power output of each USB generation and connector type isn’t actually standardized, but I can’t seem to find any info about it for my specific motherboard. I’m not looking for a specific power transfer capability, but I’m just trying to figure out which of the ports I should use to get the fastest charging out of what I already have. Here’s the link to my motherboard’s specs, and any clarification would be greatly appreciated! https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-PRO-AX-rev-1x/sp#sp
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Do Thunderbolt 3/4 docks work on ASUS ZenBook 14 UN5401QA? This laptop doesn't have Thunderbolt ports, and only USB-C 3.2 Gen 2.
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Hey guys can you help me with making a choice: I have ROG CROSSHAIR X670E HERO motherboard and ROG Hyperion GR701 case and during setup of it I realized hey my mb has only one USB-C header but case has 2 front usb-c ports. So I decided to buy SilverStone ECU07 internal usb-c card. Since this is PCI Express Base 3.1a card my question is: Is this compatible with my mb or if you think my choice is bad can you point me to one better. Thanks!
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Hello all, Looking for assistance troubleshooting a problem with a thunderbolt dock into a computer. I have a dell precision 7820 that I installed a StarTech USB-C PCIe Card (Found here) When using smaller USB-C docks I can detect drives connected but only after disabling then enabling the PCIe card. When I try to plug in a thunderbolt dock (OWC Thunderbolt 3 Dock) I get the error "Thunderbolt may have limited functionality" and nothing plugged into the dock is detected. I am using the included Thunderbolt cable that came with the dock (Has a lightning symbol with a 3 on the connector), I have drivers updated for the computer, pcie card, and even one that came for the dock and still nothing. I even have the thunderbolt option enabled with no security in the bios. I'm hitting a wall of I don't know what else I can check to get this thunderbolt dock to work. Any suggestions?
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Hi, this isn't the ordinary my battery won't charge, please help me-forum post. My laptop's battery only charges via USB-C with DP and no other charging cables. My Razer Blade Stealth 13" 2019 base model (RZ09-0281x), is acting very strange. Three weeks ago my original 65W charger gave up, luckily for me, I have a monitor at home with a USB-C-PD and DisplayPort signal so I could still charge it. Then I ordered a new Anker 65W Nano USB-C charger and thought that the new charger would solve my issues. However, my laptop still won't charge with the new charger (I've tested that the Anker works fine on other laptops and devices). I've updated every driver, removed the battery and controller from the device manager, installed all the latest Win 11-updates, and run the troubleshooting tool, I've tried to run Linux and see if my laptop detects the charger via the terminal and saw that it doesn't get detected (only the monitor charger). I then reinstalled a fresh Windows. I also physically unplugged the battery and tried to start the computer without it (it didn't work) and then plugged the battery back in but the problem remains. The laptop was also charging via a similar monitor with USB-C PD but not with other laptop chargers. Help me!! Every weird tip is useful since I really can't figure out another possible solution, I feel like I've tried everything.
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Hi all, I was just reading the following article: CES 2023 Eyes-On: HP's Giant E45c Ultrawide Monitor Mimics a Dual-Display Setup and was intrigued by the idea that you can use an ultrawide monitor in a dual screen layout at the _hardware_ level (as opposed to using OS specific software to do this) I'm trying to work out exactly what this functionality would be called so that I can google/search for monitors that support this type of functionality - HP calls it "Virtual Dual Display" which doesn't seem to return anything other than the product page of the HP E45c G5 DQHD Curved Monitor. Does anybody know what this is called so I can google for it better? Or even better yet, know monitors that support this functionality? -
Hi, I currently have 2 laptops(m2 macbook air, razer blade stealth) and I'm using a this belkin docking station for one cable setup as it can support dual display for the mac: https://www.belkin.com/usb-c-dual-display-docking-station/P-INC002.html I am planning on selling my razer laptop and building a pc. I would like to keep the one cable setup to switch between the computers. I am planning to use a thunderbolt card for it with GPU pass through. My current setup works fine even in games with no drop, but I am not sure that it will handle the higher graphics in games with the new pc as this dock is USB-C 3.1(probably gen 1.) not thunderbolt. Any opinion? I have 2 1080p 60hz displays. Thanks.
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In the era of external devices, and USB 3.2 performance, what "Good/Redundant" solutions can an end-user rely on? I have several 1TB NVMe external USB drives, mounted into a usb-c enclosure, and this works very well. but it's not the perfect solution for "Business Professionals". I'm in hopes to enlighten the charts and maths, of USB transfer speeds vs NVMe performances - and whats available on the open market (Amazon, MicroCenter, etc.) This may make a great topic for a video.
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Hi everyone, I recently bought a Sennheiser headset and a portable amplifier, I use a 3.5 cable to connect the headset to the amplifier, and then a USB-C cable to connect it to my phone. The short USB-C cable that was included with the amplifier became loose after a couple of days, and since then I have been on the hunt for a cable that is capable of transferring digital audio, durable and short (no more than 4-5 inches). I found one cable on amazon that is durable and short, but unfortunately, it was an analog cable, which makes it useless with my Pixel 7 pro, I asked Chat-GPT for suggestions, and it gave me multiple ones, but all the links were not working, and when I googled them I found nothing, which suggests that the items got discontinued. If anyone has any suggestions for a short, durable and digital USB-C to USB-C cable that would be great, it doesn't have to be from amazon. Thanks!!
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Hi! So my Asus ROG Delta gaming headset's USB-C male port had melted the other day while plugged in to my computer through the USB adaptor that it comes with. I tried taking it back to BestBuy where I bought it, but my return period already ended. So then I try calling Asus directly, but was told that they don't do replacements nor fix headsets. So now I'm stuck with trying to get them fixed. Can anyone tell me where I could send them to get fixed? Thanks in advance!
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So... A user at my office dropped his laptop square on the USB-C charger whilst plugged in. So naturally, the laptop no longer charges. Well kinda, if i leave it plugged in for like a week it gets to around 30%. I have inspected and replaced the charger and cable itself. No change. I stripped the laptop and physically inspected the port, connectors and double checked all connectors leading to and from the battery. No visible damage. I then sent the laptop to a repair center. They quoted R13 000.00 for a motherboard replacement. This is R5 000.00 short of the laptop's value so the company decided to rather buy a replacement and allowed me to take it for myself. It's a Lenovo ThinkPad E590 (i7, 16GB RAM, 500GB M.2 and not too bad at all if I can hack-fix it myself. So if you are skilled enough to help me on this, I would REALY appreciate the assist. It has been a while since I had the opportunity to have a decent-ish system at home. So the way I see it, there are two options. One is to try and fix the charging fault itself and Two is to bypass the problem completely. Fixing the charging gives me 3 challenges. The first is to isolate where the issue is. Now I watched some videos on YouTube and it looks like the "handshake" might be at fault due to the charging happening but never ramping up to full throttle. Is that a physical chip that I can replace, repair or bypass? And how do I know if that is the location of the fault? Then, how do I fix it. Some next level fine soldering I presume but i'm up for the task. Or maybe a way to charge the battery by bypassing the port and board entirely whilst having the laptop running off it? Even if it would then need to be a fixed cable, at least I keep the ability to charge it and run it off the battery. Like a PC on a UPS. Bypassing the problem completely also sounds like a possibility even if I would lose the portability of a laptop. I'm talking about powering the laptop board directly without going through the battery. In this case I would probably end up building it into my desk as a silent Small Form Factor hidden PC and make the screen like a pop-out monitor. So if this is the only way, can I power the board directly? And how do I go about it? Please comment if you know something about this stuff so I don't ruin my chances with this laptop. -
The front i/o panel for the 270r has 2 usb-2.0 ports already on it, however I damaged one of them, and also will be getting a new motherboard that allows USB-C. This case has an interesting mounting method for the ports, it's like a slot around rubber, and compatible ports seem to only be made by Corsair. There is a usb-c that comes with the Obsidian 750D upgrade kit that is secured in the same way as the 270r, however that kit is unavailable and I only want the USB-C cable.
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Hi! I am working on a project were I need to connect a macbook with type-c to a big touch screen. So I want a 5meter long usb-c cable that convert to hdmi, usb-a and can deliver pd to the macbook. I have tried a multiadapter with a usbc extender cable but that did not work very well. I got it working fine some times but most of the time its only hdmi and pd or nothing. Do anyone know of a solution here? If the 5meter cable is too long 4 or 3 meter might be enough, but I would really like 5meter for extra flexibility. Thanks in advance,
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Hello everyone. I wanted to hear your experiences and opinions on this. Somehow I seem to have really bad experiences with phones with USB-C ports. My first phone with one was a Samsung S9. Port had first signs of breaking after about 2.2years. It started showing the "water in port"-warning and stopped to fastcharge. Another 1-2 months later I was not able to charge it at all. So I bought a Samsung A50. That one had the same issues of not being able to fastcharge after only 8 months, so I bought a Xiaomi Note 9 only 3 days before the A50 was not able to charge anymore and I sent it to a repairshop (sadly they wouldn't repair it under warranty, because it had a 1mm crack at the top of the screen). Now the Xiaomi shows the first signs of not charging all the time (screen lights up every 10 seconds indicating a newly started charging process) after I only bought it in August 2020, so it has about 180 plugin cycles. The port is really wobbly already (4-5° up and down movement). There is no dust in there, since the rubber case has a plug. Somehow I don't know what I do wrong. Since I had such bad experiences with the two Samsungs phones I swore I would eliminate my wrongdoing and only charge the Xiaomi while it lay still on my nightstand, but it still is starting to bother me. All my previouse phone with Mircro USB ports never had such issues, even if I saved them from a fall by pulling at the cable, playing on the phone while it charged, bending the cables etc. The ports held 3-5 years and where thight to plug in the first and last day of using them. Now the new and sooo good USB-C fells like a worn out buthole of a 90 year old grandma. I am really just pissed about it, because I have better things to do than switching between phones because my new 8 month old needs to go into the repairshop again. -
I accidentally plugged my "usb c" (it connected to a ssd t5 samsung) to "usb a" port on my laptop, it caused "a shock" (I guessed ¯_(ツ)_/¯), it just made my laptop shut right off. Can anyone explain what just happenned? Thanks. USB-A 3.2 Gen 1 (my laptop is GF63 Thin 10SCXR) -
Hello guys, I'm currently looking for a monitor for the wife. Here are the criteria: - Integrated power supply (no external power brick) - USB-C display input for connection with a laptop - USB-C charging for the laptop. Does not need to be 100W, as she leave the laptop all the time connected. - Vesa mount 100x100 - around 30-33", preferably not ultrawide - budget 550USD - Main usage will be document editing and review. No gaming nor photo/video editing. So far I found the Dell P3221D which tick all my boxes. Is there any other option out there, or I am looking for a unicorn? Thanks
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