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Showing results for tags 'usb 2.0'.
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Is this what used to be a USB 2.0 type A male, that i just took apart, in anyway capable of running malicious software or code on my pc if plugged in? I can provide better pictures if requested
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Hi Guys I am rebuilding my old pc in a new case and i have discovered that i have an 11 pin USB 2.0 header.I have never seen one of these, could someone please help me out or tell me where I can get an adapter or something so I can plug a 9 pin into it? Thanks!
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Hey All, So I have recently converted an old laptop to be my Linux Plex server. However when I plugged in Ethernet it looks like it is only a 100 base. (I thought it was gigabit) so now my question is, is it worth getting a USB 2.0 gigabit Ethernet adapter or keep it running on 5ghz wifi. My thinking is Ethernet is better but thought it is worth hearing other opinions. Thanks in advanced. David
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Good evening all, I have a NZXT - H510 Compact case which has a front USB 3.1 Type C port. My motherboard, an ASUS TUF GAMING B450M-PLUS II, does not have a compatible spot for this. Is there a way I can use this USB-C port via an adapter or something so it can use one of the 4 x front USB 2.0 headers? I don't really care about speed or needing it for large powered accessories, just want to be able to use it for basic storage from my phone or to plug in an xbox controller. From PC Part Picker: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case has a front panel USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type C port, but the Asus TUF GAMING B450M-PLUS II Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard does not have sufficient USB 3.2 Gen 2 or Gen 1 headers. The case USB 3.2 Gen 2 Type C port will not be usable. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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Will a Kingston a400 120gb ssd max out USB 2.0 speeds? I am planing on using it with my Xbox 360 e. here is the link of the specs of the ssd. https://www.kingston.com/en/ssd/a400-solid-state-drive
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I have a Fractal Define 7 case. My motherboard is an ASUS Z490-A Gaming. I'm running Windows 10 professional. The case has 4 USB ports on the front (well five USB C as well). Two USB 2.0 and Two USB 3.0. I have plugged into the USB 2.0 ports a XBOX one wireless adapter and a logitech unifying receiver for my home theatre media keyboard. The issue I have is only one of these can work/exists at a time. If I use the controller for example all is well, but when I go to use the keyboard it doesn't work (device manager says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43) A request for the USB device descriptor failed."). I have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it going. It's like it can only power one port at a time. I tried to force it to do both once and it BSOD me (KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED). I wouldn't usually have both going at the same time anyways, but it's annoying to have to unplug and plug back in the adapters each time, as it can't dynamically switch to one after using the other. If I plug both into the USB 3.0 ports it works fine. I'd prefer not to do this as I use those ports as well and would like to know if these ports are faulty. If I plug one adapter in to the USB 2.0 ports and one flash/thumb drive it works (originally I thought it didn't when first trying, but retrying again it works fine in this configuration). If I plug in two flash/thumb drives into the USB 2.0 ports and run them at the same time, it works fine. Is there some power limitation of USB 2.0 where it can't run two wireless adapters off the shared two front ports? Is it faulty case port/wiring, or is it the motherboard USB 2.0 connector?
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So i came across an old USB 2.0 Pendrive which had some important data on it. I was transferring it onto the Laptop HDD using TERACOPY 2. I noticed that the read speed, when the pendrive was in a USB 2.0 port, was 16 Mbps for large files (Movies >2GB). So then, for experimenting, i transferred a copy of the movies back on the pen drive and this time, stuck it into the USB 3.0 port on my laptop, and copied them back to the HDD. Now, i am aware that the greater power delivery on a USB 3.0 Ports is due to the additional connectors present and should only work with USB 3.0 devices (and i also know about backward compatibility). HOWEVER, surprisingly, i recieved a speed of 17 Mbps this time and once or twice, it even showed 18 Mbps for a second. CAN ANYONE GIVE ME REASONS FOR THIS? BTW, i tried this experiment 3 more time just for eliminating any errors that occurred the first time. It didnt touch 18 this time, but stayed on 17.
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I'm planning on building a PC, and i was curious about a few things that might affect my AIO choice. I want to use the corsair H100i v2 because of the benefit of the Corsair Link, however the corsair link uses a usb 2.0 port on the motherboard. The motherboard i want to use is the ASUS STRIX Z270E. The Corsair 780T has two usb 2.0 and two usb 3.0 on the front to be plugged into the motherboard. I couldnt find a clear answer anywhere about how many USB 2.0 connectors the motherboard has, as well as how many usb 3.0 connectors on the motherboard. I dont want one of the USB 2.0 ports not working, so i was hoping someone could help me decide.
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- usb 2.0
- corsair link
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So I bought a new case for a mix and match new and used parts, and It comes with 2 USB 3.0 frontal ports and just 1 Big connector. My mobo (biostar g41d3+) comes with 2 smaller USB connectors. Is there an adapter for this?
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Hello everyone. I recently built a gaming rig using an MSI 970 gaming motherboard. When I first built the rig the USB 3.0 slots worked fine and were transferring the speed they are suppose to, but suddenly one day i noticed it was taking a long time to transfer files back and forth with my external hard drive (which is a Western Digital My Book which supports USB 3.0.) I even made sure i am using the USB 3.0 cord that came with it. I am a little confused trying to figure out what this could possibly be or what is causing this to happen. I have all the drivers installed so its not that either. If someone with the same problem or with a solution could reply, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
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Hi, I have a Raspberry PI 3 model B, and want to upgrade its ram so I could run a game server. Since you can't upgrade the 1GB of ram in LPDDR2, the next best option is usb ram. The Raspberry PI only has soppurt for USB 2.0, and I can't find anywhere a list of fastest USB 2.0 drives. Does anyone know some fast USB 2.0 drives? USB 2.0's max speeds are 60 MB/s, and I don't need anything larger compacity that 32 GB. Thanks!
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Hey guys, I got a question, I got a project in which I have to submerge a USB 2.0 hub into a USB 3.0 hub. How am I supposed to do that? Can I just hook the D- from the 2.0 to the D- from the 3.0 and for the D+ the same? Or do I have to do something completely different? I like to hear from u
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Hey guys!! I was wondering, is it possible to connect two NZXT Internal USB Hub simultaneously, off of a single USB 2.0 header on the motherboard?
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So, my build is an older generation and my motherboard only has usb 2.0 and my case is new bur has usb 3.0. I want to be able to use my case usb ports, so is there a way to convert case usb 3.0 to a motherboard usb 2.0 with some kind of adapder or something?
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Hello! My Logitech G930s 7.1 doesn't work and I got told that maybe using the headset with a USB 2.0 port would fix my problem, I have 2 USB 2.0 ports on my case, but I can't use them because both of my usb 2.0 headers are in use. So I thought that maybe if I would downgrade one of my USB 3.0 ports to USB 2.0 I could test if 7.1 would work again. Is downgraded USB 3.0 the same thing as a "original" USB 2.0 port? And can I just downgrade one of my USB 3.0 ports instead of all of them? Edit: Forgot to say that all of my USB 2.0 headers are in use Thank you!
- 7 replies
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- usb 3.0 downgrading
- usb 3.0
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So i bought this Seagate Expansion Portable HDD 1TB ( SRD00F1 ). It says its 3.0. Its work fine on my laptop ( which has USB 3.0 socket ). But my PC is OLD ( ASUS-P5K-Premium, LGA775 ). Whenever i plug this device to my PC, it beeps and i have searched on internet, it says because of 2.0 USB its unable to deliver the full power to Device. Now i know im screwed lol but is there anything that i can do to work it on my PC? Thanks
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I am working on my first build into a DIYPC Gamemax-W-RGB Full Tower Case. This case has front (or more specifically “top”) IO of 2 USB 3.0, 2 USB 2.0 and and an SD/miniSD card reader. I have also installed a Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Adapter. I have a Gigabyte - Z390 UD motherboard. My mobo has 1 USB 3.0 header and 1 USB 2.0 header. My problem is that card reader, the wifi/bluetooth adapter, and (obviously) the USB 2.0 all need to be plugged into a USB header. As I understand it, the wifi card will work without the USB, the bluetooth will simply be disabled. I think. Then again, I hardly ever use a card reader anymore and 2 USB 3.0 ports should be plenty front IO in the short term. But assuming I want to get all 3 functioning in the long term, what are my options? Is there some kind of 3-way USB splitter I could install? Is there a PCIE card with additional USB headers I could install? Thanks so much guys. I am getting closer and closer to being able to try and turn this thing on for the first time. I feel like it will be a miracle if everything is installed correctly. I am sure once its up and running correctly I will be happy I built it. But right now... It's funny, I bought a full tower case because I wanted to have plenty of room to make it easier but it's still a struggle to plug things in in places. I just realized my knuckles are bleeding.
- 2 replies
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- usb 2.0
- pcie wireless adapter
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Hi, Recently Huawei announced their new lineup of Matebooks with their "revolutionary" folding phone. Their Matebook 14 has both, Type A 2.0 and 3.0 usb's. Why? Wouldn't it be better to either provide a different port or just 2 USB 3.0 ports? Here's Engadget's youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSr6g3YgyH0 Skip to 4:40 to check it out
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G'day. recently i got an Oculus Rift s and it was working flawlessly. i just celebrated my 18th birthday so i had some mates over. one of my friends was playing on my brand new rift s and suddenly the screen went black. and now when i try and use it. there is 3 dots (loading ellipses screen) in the display of the headstand. and when i go into my devices in the Oculus software. it says that my rift s is connected via a Usb 2.0 (which it is most definitely not) it was working fine and then just stopped. I've done the restart many times, I've uninstalled Oculus twice, I've restarted the PC many times, I've left my PC for a full day, and I've searched the internet for hours to no solution. Please help... this thing was expensive and I've already bought heaps of games for it.
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Hello friends, Sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum: My motherboard only has one 9-pin USB 2.0 header but I need two!!! I have one for my front USB header but need another 9 pin header for my WIFI/BT card. I have an extra PCIe x1 expansion slot on my motherboard. Can someone recommend a PCIe to 9 pin header adapter/card which I could connect my WIFI/BT card to? This is my Gigabyte H310M A mobo This is my Intel AC9260 WIFI/BT card
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Woke up to find my computer displaying the American Megatrends messsage saying: "USB Device Over Current Status Detected!!" The night before my computer was working completely fine and I've never came across this message in the past 3 years I've had this computer. Probably around 3-4 days prior I've received a notification saying a similar thing from Windows, but disregarded it. I then noticed right when I got that message my iPhone and other device, both plugged into my front panel USB 2.0 ports, had stopped charging, but then again disregarded it and just unplugged them. I've done research on the same problem. I unplugged all my USB devices, tried turning on PC, same message. I then unplugged all the USB headers inside the computer (even though it likely isn't the USB 3.0 headers that caused the problem), tried turning it on, same message appeared. I'm unsure whether my BIOS is its latest version, but that wouldn't matter. I also can't even open my BIOS prior to when the message appears. I've checked all the USB ports to look for signs of physical damage, seems all fine. Searching and I found that someone with the same problem as me was suggested to: 1. Reflash BIOS with programmer; 2. Desolder USB Protection chips; 3. Change Nuvoton chips; 4. Change Chipset. I haven't tried these yet, but I'm wondering if theres any other solutions I can try. If there aren't I might just seek professional help or buy a new motherboard. If you need any more information, I'll gladly give you it. Thanks for taking your time to read. PC Specs: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Asus - PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB ROG STRIX Video Card NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
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- troubleshooting
- usb device over current
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Hey, I got a Laptop 2 1/2 years ago and after having some bugs in windows and registry problems I decided to make a fresh install of Windows on my new SSD. One of my bugs that I had before the reinstall were that the two usb 2.0 ports didn't work but the usb 3.0 port did. In device manager it said "not migrated". And now after the install the problem still exists but now it shows up as correctly working. I can't find any things on the web that help. Please help me troubleshoot Paul
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In device manager > USB controllers I have USB composite device, USB root hub (USB 3.0), AMD USB 3.0 extensible host controller and AMD USB 3.1 extensible host controller (which windows has stopped because it reported problems).USB 2.0 ports on my motherboard and front panel stopped working, what's interesting is that when I plug a phone it will charge but won't let me transfer data (nothing happens).I also experience USB disconnects often but most of the time (if not every time) it's my mouse but I believe that's because the mouse is too old (keyboard works when this happens).
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Hey guys. So got a rather unusual situation. On my old computer, one of the USB 2.0 ports had come loose in the socket, but it still worked. But one day when I unplugged my external hard drive from that socket, the loose port came with it, and I can't get it out. I've spent hours searching for help on this, but it looks like no one else has had this problem! So I was hoping someone here might have an idea. Here's a pic which will hopefully make it clearer. It's a 3.0 USB port, the black (top) is the loose port that shouldn't be in there.
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for some reason when i transfer something from my desktop to my usb flash drive it only writes at 5MB/s at max, what could be they problem here? i tried everything from changing the drive to NTFS to changing the policy to (Better performance) but nothing changed