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I just installed EK AIO Basic 240 in the NR200p & I'm wondering what to do once the 5year warranty ends on it. 5 years is a long time & I'll probably replace it in year 6 or sooner if there's an issue with EK aio. The general accepted knowledge of AIO is summed up in this phrase: "When it breaks, buy a new one." Yeah, aio are not the same as custom liquid builds too. If I can replace the coolant & tubes to extend the life of the AIO, then I'll do it. I'm aware of all Do's & Don'ts of AIOs Provide below are the links to EK AIO Basic site & Gamers Nexus videos on it. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-aio-basic-240 Gamers Nexus: EK AIO Tear Down EK AIO review

Hello all! I've just purchased the ALEX CAVALLI TUBE HYBRID AMP and GRACE DESIGN STANDARD DAC. I have always been into audio, but never really pulled the trigger. I was looking to pair the two with the SENNHEISER HD 58X JUBILEE HEADPHONES, so I purchased them too. Sometimes I feel extremely torn between them, as it sometimes seems (from what people say) the 6XX are somehow just a waaay superior headphone. About me: I do like quite a neutral sound signature, but my "secret pleasure" is and always has been a bit of bass (definitely not muddy or overpowered, just present, if you know what I mean - to make the music sound more "alive"). Now I do understand that the HD 58X/6XX are not basshead headphones and I am perfectly okay with that. But you should also know that I am not looking to analyse or monitor my music or equipment, but rather to listen to the actual music and, of course, enjoy it. And this is where we come to my decision about purchasing the HD 58X over the HD6XX's... from what I've read it seems like the HD 6XX headphones are a bit more "sterile", analytical and cooler sounding, while the HD58X (which are intended to be pretty much my daily driver for movies, gaming and music listening - mixed genre) are a bit warmer, have a touch more bass and are just more enjoyable and easy to listen to. I know they don't really need an amp for the most part, but I really wanted to get a setup that would be able to support maybe even some other harder to drive headphones in the future and I was hoping that the tube (I know it's a hybrid, but still) would help with the smoothness and warmth - at least a bit. About the drivers: What's also gotten me worried is that the 6XX's use pretty much the same driver as the original HD 650 (basically a $500 pair of headphones), but the HD 58X use a newer driver, that is apparently NOT the same as the HD 660 S (as confirmed by Sennheiser, apparently).. and so at this point I am asking myself: is the $170 price on Massdrop right now actually worth it? What if I am actually getting a much much cheap driver that was just tuned to sound good? - I do realise this is a funny and stupid thing to be worried about, but still.. I believe it is an interesting aspect of this situation to at least consider taking a look at. So this brings me to the question: did I make the right choice based on what I'm looking for, because sometimes forums, videos on YT and reviews online make me feel like I should have gotten the HD 6XX instead? I would really appreciate your input. Thank you all in advance!

I am currently going to buy a Schiit stack and was wondering if the Vali 2 is worth the extra money over the Magni 2. The dac that I will be using with them is the Modi 2.

I have the corsair 780T case, currently have the ek s360 kit in my system but got the 1080TI reference card and am going to add it into the loop but make it hardline(first time ever trying it) now my idea is to keep my rad and keep my pump and all from but add another 120mm rad onto the loop as well to keep everything well cooled and enough to overclock. However I am wondering would I need 90 degree fittings to make the bends easier. If someone could give me a rough idea on what all I need that would be great.

Will these two work together? If yes, how do I connect them to source and headphones/speakers? FX-Audio DAC-X6 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2014-DAC-X6-fever-HiFi-amp-USB-Fiber-Coaxial-Digital-Audio-Decoder-DAC-24BIT-192-Free/32259251491.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.9.XXwv3B&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_519_10175_10111_10112_10113_10114_10182_10078_10079_10073_5030019_10123_10120_10189_142-10120,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=0d6b6300-8965-485e-a41d-5c3a2f2c6785&algo_expid=6c565cd9-5ccd-4fc3-a176-68d7d6f439b4-1&algo_pvid=6c565cd9-5ccd-4fc3-a176-68d7d6f439b4 FX-Audio Tube-01 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2016-New-Feixiang-FX-AUDIO-TUBE-01-DC12V-1A-Bile-Preamp-Tube-Amplifier-Buffer-6J1-HIFI/32649288892.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.41.XXwv3B&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10068_5010019_10136_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_437_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_303_100031_10099_10103_10102_10096_10052_10053_10142_10107_10050_10051_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10110_519_10175_10111_10112_10113_10114_10182_10078_10079_10073_5030019_10123_10120_10189_142-10120,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=0d6b6300-8965-485e-a41d-5c3a2f2c6785&algo_expid=6c565cd9-5ccd-4fc3-a176-68d7d6f439b4-8&algo_pvid=6c565cd9-5ccd-4fc3-a176-68d7d6f439b4

Does a tube headphone amplifier have any impact on imaging compared to a solid state? Generally speaking, not comparing specific products.

Pretty simple honestly, is it smart to go with hardline tubing right out of the gate if I've never liquid cooled before? I know it would definitely be more expensive not to mention time consuming with bending and probably breaking some pipes, messing up bends and what not. Soft tubing does look good at times but hardline is just on the next dang level. I'm thinking about just starting with a basic setup of CPU + GPU with a couple of rads etc. One benefit of soft tubing is that it won't be such a dent in the wallet if I decide I hate water cooling (but how could I honestly) and I can always move on to hardline in a couple years. Anyway, let me know what the pros and cons are etc. and your personal opinion thanks!

Hey forum, as the title suggests it, I'm looking to buy some acrylic tubing for a desk-pc project. I need 16mm OD/ 12mm ID and lenghts of at least 1500mm. I have my fittings and everything from ekwb, but they don't offer tubes longer than 500mm and the shipping and duty fees are crazy when ordering from canada. Any suggestions?

Hi everyone. I just noticed something strange with one of my PETG tube bends, It have straightened out a bit by itself and is now pushing slightly on my reservoar. Is it normal after some use that tubes straightens a bit ? My bend was close to 90 degrees when I installed it but its more like 100 - 110 degrees now. I have to fix it for sure when i'm doing my maintenance next time if not sooner. Anyone else had this problem ? I use the 5/8" Clear Monsoon PETG hardline tubes.

I'm looking to custom loop my sg13, and am looking for a pump that fits onto one of the hardline tubes if it exits (kinda sth like this that acts as a junction in the loop instead of like a station in the case of a pump plus res or a rectangular pump: http://ttpremium.com/product/pacific-g14-digital-temperature-sensor/). I'm looking to do this because I have very limited space in there since I opted for an ATX PSU (at that time it was for the lolz but now its f*cking me over due to its size), and I'm trying to avoid installing a pump/res combo outside of the case for aesthetic reasons. I did some search on EK's site but I didn't know what I was looking at because this is my first time custom looping. Anyone knows sth like this? Please and Thx!

Buy Avexir Raiden series on Amazon: http://geni.us/TFUf5 Well, we've done it now, folks. We've reached a whole new level of "swag" with these Avexir memory kits...

Hello everyone Today I finally finished my recent project the “Smoker”. This was a project I fantasized about for years, but never had the time nor resources to realize. My friends and I had talked about a PC that is essentially a wind tunnel and I found this to be so intriguing that I had to build it. The design is pretty simple since it is nothing more than a tube with two large fans on either side. However, I wanted to keep my PC hardware and did not want to buy new parts just for this build. So it had to fit my mITX-motherboard, a Geforce 780, my ATX power supply and a H100i liquid cooler. After some tinkering I came up with this: Now that I had a plan I started on the basics. I slaughtered an old case I had spare for a motherboard back plate. Sadly, it did not have a CPU cutout and also lacked cable-management holes, so I had to cut them myself. These struts I cut out additionally would later hold the case together and hold the back plate. Then I had to ask for a few favors from a previous employer of mine, so I got hold of the remaining parts for my case: The Steel tube that had to be cut in half and some lids with holes for 200mm fans. In these lids I had to drill some holes and test-fitted my NZXT fans. I also predrilled the holes for hinges and rivets that would keep everything together. Of course a smoker would not be complete without a handle, so I bought that too. Now I had to paint those parts, which was a pain since I had no place to paint these other than outside and the weather just would not play nice. I had to use a primer made for zinc-metals since the steel had a fresh zinc-coat. So after primer and paint it looked like this: I did not pain the inside (except for the primer) since I was planning to add some dampening on the inside. I remembered that I would need a drive cage for my remaining hard drives, so I nicked one from another case and painted that together with the back plate and a grate for the exhaust fan (since there will not be a dust filter on the right side). Of course this tube would not sit straight without some feet, so I took some wooden fence and stained it. Then the assembly began. I fitted a dummy-board to test the clearance for IO. Seemed okay at first, but proved to be very tight. I also ordered some parts to hold my radiator from Case-King and screwed it in. Soon I started adding the power-button and front I/O, then I moved on to applying the dampening material on the inside after which I installed the fans and the metal grate on the right side. I used spare dampening material and Velcro to fix the PSU and drive cage, then I used some more Velcro to attach the SSDs. Then I tossed the dummy-board and started to move the rest of my hardware into the case. The dust filer looks very greyish in this photo, but it’s just bad lighting. I did spend some more time on cable-managing, but I just wanted to be done at this point since I had to troubleshoot the system. It was quite unstable for some time and I wanted to finally fix it. Some minor tweaks and assembly later, it was stable again. Seems like the crashes were due to the Y-cable I used for my GPU, so I replaced that with two separate cables. Seems stable now. Finally, I connected all my periphery and called it a day. If anyone is interested to know anything else, just ask away. =) I will try to respond as fast as possible. Thank you for reading. Tell me in the comments if you liked this build and enjoyed it as much as I did. Cheers

Hi all, I need to redesign my 1.5 year old water cooling system and I would really appreciate your 2 cents, what to look out for, what to consider and how to make it easy and smart Case: Phanteks Enthoo Primo The image below has all the water cooling parts I use. I attached two images; 1st without tubing, so you can download and scribble on it. 2nd with how I think to tube the components. Without tubing: How I think to tube it: A: Or B: My current loop is much more complicated since it has a 2nd reservoir, a dual-bay res for easy filling. Pump -> EK Tube Res -> Tube Res's inner tube -> CPU -> Top Rad 420/60 -> GPU's -> Bottom Rad 280/60 -> Front Rad 240/45 -> Double-Res bay -> Pump. With the new setup, I won't have an easy fill port! Though my illustration shows 'Fill Port' on top of the radiator, once the PC is under my desk, this is no easy access for filling. I need your help/ideas to improvise a convenient fill port. Maybe extending a tube from the top multi-port reservoir and keep it inside the case? :hmmsmiley What pump speed would you recommend for the D5? 2/3/4/5? Do you see any better way of re-routing the tubes? <-- most important question Is there any benefit of getting the res filled from the top or from the bottom? At the end, I think my best option is to fill the loop from the top radiator and while filling it, I need to have the 2nd G1/4 cap open so air can escape. I probably need to have a G1/4 cap open on the top res to get the air out as well. Thanks for the help!!

Long time Linus follower, watch daily. First time on the forum and first time watercooler here. I have a GTX 980 and I want to watercool it. Simple as that. I know nothing much aside from the basics in terms of results. So fittings and tube sizes are still rocket science for me. Planning to change the case to accomodate for this change, but I want to know whats good for my card. EK does a block for my MSi GTX 980 TF5. Just that I need some help with what tube size and fittings to get, sizes and how many. Also a pump and res combo that goes into the optical drive bays would be my preference. Also I want to use soft tubing as hard tubing seems a little too much for me as of right now. >.< Please help. PS: I will answer any questions about the build if you have any for me. Specs: -CPU: AMD 6300 -Mem: 16gb 1866mhz DDR3 -Mobo: Gigabyte 970A-UD3P -Drives: 1 128gb OS drive, 1 1TB drive and 1 250gb SSD -GPU: MSi GTX 980 Twin Frozr 5 -PSU: Corsair CX500 -Case: Currently Corsair 230T planning to get 780T ( but any recommendations are welcome )

What is the best kind of hard tube?

Hey guys! So today I started up a little paint mod for my H100i. I've taped everything that's not getting painted with painters tape already. Normally I wouldn't mind the black tubing, but when I started my build, I was going for a black and white build. It turned out great, except the core of the computer turned out more black than anything, so I think this will help things pop out a bit more. I've seen other peoples white tube mods, and they look sick, so I'm not too worried about how mine will turn out. There are also some red stripes on my mobo heat sinks that I want to paint but I have yet to find and white engine paint (from what I've researched, that's what I'll need to let heat pass though the heat sink). I'm wondering if it will hinder the heat expulsion much since its only a couple stripes that I want to paint, and the majority of the heat sink will still be uncovered. I also cut out a piece of aluminium to cover up the drive cages on the right. I think this will turn out pretty nice as well. ---- -- EDIT** So I got around to painting everything that I wanted and this is how it turned out. I think it went okay personally. I think the heatsinks could be touched up a bit, but for now, I think its okay. Also I need to find a better way to mount the drive bay cover, since right now its ghetto taped to the side there...lol. I think you can see the tape in the back corner beside the motherboard grommet. I want to do my gpu backplate, but I'm scared that it may be too much. What do you guys think? ------- -----

Hi. I just want to know what you guys think is the best and prettiest size for tubing in watercooling. And also whats most common to use, and what's widest compatible Thanks in advance

I will be building a complete watercooled system and of course I'll need some tubing. Planned are fittings with 13/10mm (ID 3/8" OD 1/2"),as it is the most common one; so the tubing should be compatible with that. Also it should bend well and shouldn't kink when doing a tight bend. Furthermore it should be very clear and shouldn't stain over extended periods of time. It also should'nt be that expensive. Please post me your suggestions!

I'm in the process purchasing the parts to my dream computer. I'm getting a XSPC RaySt​orm D5 Pho​ton RX480 ​V3 WaterCo​oling Kit, an extra rad most likely, and a EVGA Titan X Hydro with ek block. I want a Phanteks Enthoo Primo but they come in different colors and I want to decide what color coolant before I pick the case. I wanted to see if people had pictures of coolant color and tube color combos. I know some don't like dyes so save the hate as I've read that. I'm particularly interested in combining uv tube with UV coolant. I am really curious how UV clear tube looks with blood red or other colors also. Originally I was going to go clear tube with UV red but research has told me that is actually glowing pink. I have had a hard time finding pictures of those so I hope some of you can share. Side note: MB and Ram are black and red (ROG)

Hello, I am planning to have my system watercooled and was planning to go with PrimoChill CTR Phase II D5 Enabled for my pump/res combo. As far as aesthetics is concerned, I would like to have a cover kit (Example: EK Cover Kit, BitsPower Mod Kit) over the ugly D5 base but I am not sure if it will fit, I tried searching through dozens of results on google but to no avail. It would really help if anyone could give some insight about it.

Hi, I want to use the reservoir top as an inlet port and I was wondering if the EKWB internal tube (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm) could be used in conjunction with the included reservoir top of the EK Pump/Res combo (https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xres-100-d5-vario-incl-pump)? Or would I need to use this: https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-res-x3-top-v2-multiport Thanks EDIT: I forgot to mention that I already own the EK D5 Pump/Res combo.

For short: If you're using it as a computer amplifier, solid state.If you want a amplifier for your electric guitar or bass, tube. Long answer: Tubes will have something if left on over time called overdrive. This kind of overdrive causes distortion, which is great for guitarists and bassist, not so much for the listening music amplifier. I won't talk about preamp tubes now but power tubes. BOTH EL34 and 6L6(most popular power amp tubes) overheat, causing overdriven sounds, making the output warmer and rougher. Solid states don't suffer from this as they are generally cooler than tubes, and lasts longer. Tubes also need to be replaced over time, as the heat lowers(or highers, I forgot) the pressure in the tubes. Why I bothered to write this? Easy. I see people confused over this and needing clarification. I as a musician and a techie, know the difference between the two, and so I wrote this topic.

I would like to ask for some advice regarding my build :) Just as general information, im building in a Corsair 900D and cooling a CPU, a 780 and the maximus V Formula and I'm using two 480 Radiators! Loop order is Res>Pump>Bottom rad>Mainboard1>780>CPU>Mainboard2>Top Rad>Res My questions are: I'm using a Bitspower 400mm Tube Res and would like your input on wether I should do the inlet at the top or from the bottom? Do you hear the water dripping down, if you come in from the top, like a splashing noise? And secondly, I'm using koolance quick disconnects, and as far as I know, I should put those at the lowest point possible, this would be in my situation between the pump and the bottom rad! Is it a problem to have those after the pump? Thanks for your advice and greetings from Austria!

should i go with bay or tube resivoir bay-able to monitor waterlevels uses 5.25 inch bay tube- dominant i currently use one looks boss etc etc. i usually go with tube but im not sure?

I was wondering if it would be possible to use the pump and rad off of a closed loop cooler to make you're own "custom loop". Don't know about adding in a res, mainly just wondering about replacing the ugly black rubber tubes with either colored tubing or clear. I have seen this topic elsewhere but the only answer ever given is that it voids your warrant. Warranty aside, would this be possible? what would the drawbacks be compared to a completely custom set up with aftermarket pump, res, etc. Could you augment this with a custom pump and or res? I would really appreciate any help on this as I want to make my rig look good, but don't want to spend a bunch of money on after market water block etc when I could paint my corsair h110's logo with uv paint, and just switch out the tubing and coolant.