Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'troubleshoot'.
-
Hello! Introduction to the problem: This issue is not mine to solve but one I attempted to help my younger brother with and am now having issues with. I will include all the necessary info via a photo of his system info. I gifted my younger brother his first PC with what was my first starter build, his mother board is an ASRock B450m/ac, originally it only had 250gb ssd installed, this eventually became a problem for him as he's a gamer and is currently playing the new COD MW3, any players of the current COD games would know this game is extremely storage taxing and will take up most of the storage when all you have is 250gb to work with, I instructed him to buy a new ssd with at least 1T of storage if he wants to be able to play the games he is wishing to be able to play on the pc as COD was obviously not going to work error free when he was only allowed 5gb of storage when the game is fully downloaded. He was running out of storage during the gameplay thus causing the game to crash when it would reach its limit. He purchased a Crucial P3 1TB PCIe 3D NAND NVMe M.2 SSD (C1000P3SSD8) via my instruction and go ahead as I'd checked over and over with multiple sources whether or not it was compatible with his current motherboard and got a confirmation every time that it was indeed compatible. The problem: I instructed him to use his external hdd to install a windows 11 backup media so that he may reinstall it once the new M.2 was installed, which he did successfully. Once he'd removed and installed the new M.2 to his pc, and attempted to reboot, his PC will not boot into BIOS at all. He's tried every key possible, we've checked if it was installed correctly several times, we have been totally unsuccessful with every troubleshooter i was able to find, i've never had an issue such as this and am running out of options for support aside from taking the PC to get looked at by tech support at our local shops. If anyone could get back to me today/tonight about this solution i'd be very appreciative, as I was the one instructing him during this process and I dont want to scare him away from buying and installing his own PC parts in the future, thank you in advance! All system information provided in the attached Photo
-
I need some quick assistance with my Nvidia GTX 1660 Super GPU. I've had it for almost three years, and until recently, it ran at a cool 65-70 degrees Celsius during gaming sessions like Overwatch. I understand that over time, GPUs can experience some degree of heating. In fact, I've been vigilant about monitoring its temperature, even when it reached around 75 degrees Celsius about a year ago. However, out of nowhere, the temperature has shot up to a concerning 85 degrees Celsius without any changes to my setup or game settings. Any ideas on what might be causing this sudden spike in temperature? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
-
I purchased a used 4060ti. I want to test it before to make sure it’s good. My first problem is booting up the pc and with the display chord connected to the graphics card my computer monitor says it doesn’t detect a connection. I have to connect the display port to the motherboard to utilize the igpu in the 7600x. I have a Msi motherboard and can’t seem to figure out if the graphics card is being detected. Will it say the name of the graphics card explicitly like it says the name of my cpu? So far I ran Furmark but have no clue if I did it right because my score seemed low. Any ways to find scores that my pc should be getting with it’s 7600x and 4060ti?
-
Hi all, I'm really lost for ideas to test at this point. Any ideas would be amazing! Overview: Using latest Asus strix laptop (2023, I9 / 4080) as a desktop replacement. The system is set up connected to external Samsung ody8 4k monitor + all peripherals (KB/Mouse/Mic/Headset). The system is set up in performance and or turbo mode, and always plugged into power. **The laptop is configured to only show monitor 2 (external screen). have not changed and or modified any color management programs native to the laptop or Asus issued apps. Issue: randomly the color or visuals on the external monitor go vivid and warm tones are exaggerated. When i grab a test window and drag it to the laptop screen it refreshed the window only* (blinks once) and the color on said window is normal tone again. and vice versa. Temporary fix sometimes: I noticed when i do a clean reinstall of the latest Nvidia drivers, this can sometimes fix this issues for a while. sometimes like today it does nothing but waste time. I've Tried: new HDMI cables, different monitor ports, restarts, driver reinstalls, checked all color management app or locations in widows. I'm really lost to why this happens, I'm sure its a driver issue. but where is it going wrong. and why is a temporary clean install fixing it? I feel like there's a color profile changing somewhere but i cannot seem to find a clear path to or if that location exists. Please tell me I'm not alone here haha. Cheers Daniel.
-
- monitor
- color issues
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with:
-
New pc and first time building my own. I have no clue where the issue lies. I have tried troubleshooting on my own but can't seem to solve it. The ez diag led will go CPU -> DRAM -> CPU -> DRAM -> CPU -> DRAM -> VGA -> BOOT And will stick on boot indefinitely with zero video output. Specs include: - i7-14700KF - 1080Ti Founders Edition - MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk WiFi Wifi DDr5 - 16gb Corsair Vengencd DDR5 5200 - WD Black SN850X 1TB - EVGA Supernova 850 G6 80 Plus Gold Things I've tried: - Each stick of ram in each ram slot - no ram - no gpu - unable to flash bios with newer version, led indicator for it remains turned on after flashing for 5-10 seconds - Checked cables to ensure plugged in all the way, willing to recheck if you guys think necessary I haven't checked the gpu in a known good computer, will do so when I get the chance but had to leave the house before I could get the chance to do so. Have attached photos of the ez diag mobo led and one of the rear ports to show the red bios flash light that remains on after every attempt. Any help is greatly appreciated and I do want to apologize ahead of time if I've overlooked any rules or guidelines before posting.
- 13 replies
-
REMINDER: this thread is not to ask questions about your PC. Please create a NEW thread if you still have issues after going through this thread. So, you've put together your brand new, shining rig. You plug in the power cord and push the button. Nothing happens. What now? The answer depends on what is happening: The machine doesn't do anything. No beeps, LEDs or spinning fans. Check if your power cable is firmly plugged in on both ends (you would be surprised how many issues this resolves) Check if the power supply (PSU) has a button to cut the power to the machine. Check if this button is in the position denoted with ON or I Check if EVERY power cable is plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Check if the power button is installed correctly (consult your motherboard manual) Try shorting out the pins you connect the power button to manually. If this powers on your system, you have a faulty power button. Check with a device of which you know that it works if the power outlet you're using is actually providing power. If this hasn't solved the problem, check if your PSU isn't dead. To do this, you can follow these steps: Unplug your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with OFF or 0 Unplug every connector coming from your PSU (this is very important) Using a bent paperclip, short out the green wire on the 24 pin header with any of the black wires, like so. If you have a PSU that shuts down its fan under low load, or a PSU that is fanless, connect something small like a hard drive to it. Plug in your power cord and/or flip the switch on the back of the PSU in the position denoted with ON or I If the PSU does NOT power on (the fan/hard drive you connected should start spinning) after following these steps, your PSU is in all likelyhood defective. Request an RMA. If the PSU DOES power on, then the problem is most likely your motherboard. The machine does power up, but my screen remains black (no POST). Make sure your BIOS version is compatible with the CPU generation you're trying to run in your motherboard, you can consult the manual or the manufacturer's website about this. Check if EVERY power cable is connected. Auxiliary power connectors included. Make sure the cable coming from your monitor is attached securely to the graphics card. Also make sure it is securely attached to the monitor itself. Make sure your PSU is powerful enough to power your complete system. Try booting the system with only a monitor but no other peripherals connected. (Thanks @Steven Schaefer) Make sure your monitor works by testing it on a different computer. If you have both a dedicated GPU and an iGPU, try your monitor on both the outputs on the graphics cards as well as on the motherboard. When trying the iGPU, if the board has VGA out, try that too instead of just digital out. (Discovered by @evening) Make sure all connectors and cables are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Make sure your RAM, CPU and GPU are plugged in securely, reseat if necessary. Remove riser cables between GPU and motherboard. If this solves the issue, try lowering your PCIe version/speed in the bios to PCIe 3 or lower (Thanks @problemsolver) If the motherboard you're using has debug LEDs, check the error code and consult the motherboard manual to see what it means. If you have a debug speaker connected to the motherboard, note the beep sequence and consult the motherboard manual or this thread to see what it means. Try clearing your CMOS. Try booting your computer with only a motherboard, CPU and one stick of RAM attached (if you don't have an iGPU, plug in your GPU as well ). Make sure your GPU works (if you have a dedicated one), try it in another computer. Make sure your RAM works, try it another computer. Make sure the RAM is compatible with your CPU and your motherboard. If the PC still doesn't POST after this, create a new thread and, as explained here, post IN FULL DETAIL about your problem. Make sure you include the following: System configuration Troubleshooting steps you already did Any additional information that may be relevant. Lastly, if you find any mistakes/grammatical errors, inaccuracies or missing steps in this post, please do post them in a comment so I can fix it. PS: @TheXDS has posted how you can do some more in depth checking of the internal circuitry of you PSU. The only thing you need is a multimeter or potentiometer (if you're oldschool :D). You can find his post at http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/42440-readme-how-to-respond-to-a-no-post-or-no-power-up-situation/?p=4561958
-
My new monitor aorus fi27q came with 2 aux input one for mic and the other for Headphones. The headphones are working but it does not recognize my mic. My monitor is connected to the GPU using Display Port. Thank You for the help
-
Hi, so I'm new here. But I've built my very own PC with an RTX 4090 hooked up to a brand new LG C3 48" OLED TV. I'm using it in 4K 60FPS. However, everything seems choppy... It's like 30FPS while it's 60FPS. I did use a 120Hz display for a year or so, but nothing feels smooth unless it's 120hz. I don't know what's going on. Everything is up-to-date, I have had no crashes or windows issues, but I can't seem to get games or the desktop to be smooth in 60FPS. It's like half the rate it should be and gutters like crazy. I've reset all my Nvidia controll panel settings as well. I don't know what I did wrong, but I have checked all my parts. I have a proper HDMI 2.1 cable, rated and checked. But still, nothing seems to be smooth like on a phone with 60FPS. My rig is a 14900K, ASUS TUF RTX 4090, Corsair Dominator Titanium 64GB (4x16GB) 6400MHz RAM kit, ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Dark Hero, and a Corsair MP600 Core XT 4TB NVMe SSD. Windows is up to date and drivers are also up-to-date. But for some reason, nothing is just smooth like it would be on a console. Games that cap their frame rate like Elden Ring look smooth, but still, games that don't won't even feel like 60fps. (I want it on 4K 60FPS for video recording and Raytracing games. Since it's smoothest.)
-
For the past 2-3 months I've had an issue where my CPU will randomly drop to 0.4 GHz even though it's nowhere near overheating and is on full battery. I've tried and tried again to fix the issue but cannot find any solutions. Laptop Specs: Model Name: Lenovo Ideapd Gaming 3 15ACH6 - Type 82K2 AMD Ryzen 5600H 16 GB RAM @ 3200Mhz Nvidia Geforce 1650 Max Q Normally: In Games: The max CPU temp that Lenovo has set is 80 degrees. The issue only seems to happening in games, I have no idea why. I've seen intel users have the exact same problems and solutions for those included ThrottleStop which isn't available for AMD CPUs. I've tried resetting Windows, installing Windows from a fresh ISO, updating my BIOS, reinstalling my graphics drivers and nothing has worked.
-
Hey guys I noticed this month my power LED blinking in normal operation my motherboard is Asus PRIME Z690-P D4 specs: i5-13600KF, 32 GB RAM, 1080 TI and Hyte Y60. I have contacted Asus support they have no idea why and they recommend disable LEDs in BIOS or disconnect the cable they are sure really helpful in the last message they said I should ask support from Hyte about the issue lol 20240229_032943.mp4
-
Hii. I've noticed one of my MSI Optix G241 monitors has a screen issue. Sometimes tiny dot artifacts will take shape when something is open, upon minimizing or closing it goes away almost like it's a 'layer' issue. Does anyone know if there's a similar website or program to Jscreenfix that can run on the entire monitor and not just a tiny section? Or if this is just as simple as getting a new dp? Thank you.
-
I bought this GALAX 1660 Ti GPU 8 months ago, And i went ahead and tested it 5 months ago and it wouldnt produce a screen at first and sometimes would, and it would crash while stress testing and produce a grinding fan noise. But i seemed to have fixed those issues except the grinding fan noise. It would still produce it somewhere around 2030 RPM or 60% Fan Speed. But it's not as noisy as before but just today the noise seemed to have come back and im worried if the gpu will get the same symptoms months ago or it will break. No wire seems to be blocking the gpu or anything its just that when the fan goes above 2030 RPM/60% Fan Speed it would make this annoying grinding noise but it's not that loud compared to before. But now it's *kinda* fixed all i did was reseat the gpu and the 8 pin, cleaned the ram, replaced the cmos. And it's stable in games and on FurMark and wont crash anymore. But still makes this annoying grinding noise on it's fan and i dont know how to fix it. Editors Note: I set the fan speed to 62% in MSI Afterburner when playing gpu intense games for the fan to chill and not make that ear-piercing noise. Here's the video of my GPU Back then still having no display issues, crashes and with the grinding fan noise. The noise starts at 0:30 (The noise issue im having right now too but not that audible anymore) What can i do? The warranty is expired. Or do a alternative solution.
- 28 replies
-
- gpu
- troubleshoot
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hi im here again to discuss about the problem that has been troubling me for days, i have decided to change cpu's as per advised by a friend of mine because my prev cpu was way too weak for my gpu using the bottleneck calculator, they said that it could be the cause of the problems. After setting it up i tried to play multiple games from steam such as overwatch and the forest and they lasted pretty long but not long enough to meet my needs, the change in the error is that it didn't show any sort of message that the problem is due to the gpu which was the common message that i got from previously (using my previous cpu), rather it didn't show the screen but the application is still there and i was still able to move in the game which was weird (this was in the "the forest" game). In overwatch i was able to play for an hour with no crashes though it only showed a message in where i have to send a feedback to the devs. My temps are normal, cpu and gpu usage are okay, i have done ddu before (this was done in my prev cpu im still thinking hesitating of doing this again as recommended by my friend after installing a new cpu). Reinstalled games in steam, changed resolution both in game and in my nvidia itself. specs: cpu: (new) i9 13900k / (prev) i5 12600k gpu: geforce rtx 4060 ti psu: corsair 750 w ram: 32gb ddr4 teamgroup delta storage: 2tb ssd Silicon Power nvme m.2 mobo: Asus rog strix z690 a
-
hi all, a bit of a weird predicament here. i had an old ssd that i had replaced because the OS was broken and yesterday i decided as i was cleaning my pc to plug it in to grab some old files and whatnot. i had to unplug it and re plug in the old ssd to get my computer to boot, but it was working and i got my files. i ran malwarebytes to make sure i had no viruses or anything and it came back clean. і left my pc on overnight and fast forward this morning, i decide to restart it and unplug my old drive to wipe later. now my pc won't boot, fans won't spin, no lights on motherboard or gpu. i already tried plugging it in again, clearing cmos (both with motherboard button and with the pins on the motherboard), tried booting with the old ssd plugged in, and then tried again with it unplugged. nothing seems to be working. does anyone have any ideas or insight? thanks! i'll try to answer questions in the comments, and i'll test some solutions when i am home from work Specs in case it helps: Ryzen 7 5800x Aorus b550 Elite mobo 32gb gskill ram 3070ti Boot drive is a 1tb nvme ssd 2tb games drive 4tb games drive and the old ssd is a 500gb sata ssd.
-
My PC is running a GTX660, PCIe2.0 X16, and 8 GB of RAM. I also don't know what CPU it is running, but I can probably check somehow. Does anyone know what I can run or if it bottlenecks?
-
I've been having problems with my PC recently. Disk randomly uses 100% of its capacity with no apparent reason, or even freezes. Already did what every page tells you to do (DISM check, chkdsk, scanning for viruses, performing clean boots, increasing virtual memory, etc.), and nothing whatsoever has changed. I have also updated drivers. The SSD i'm using (ACER SATA 2.5" SA100, 500gb) is new. I'm extremely baffled with this problem. Here are my specs: Geforce RTX 2070 Ventus OC Ryzen 7 2700x 4.35ghz 2x Memory Adata 8gb 3000mhz (xpg) Asus Prime B450M-A
-
Hi. I can not set my refresh rate above 120Hz with 10-bit color depth. It automatically switches to 8-bit. Even though my monitor claims 170Hz, it's only usable at a maximum of 120Hz with 10-bit. Is this a cable or monitor issue? My monitor model: VX2780J-2K Cable: Ugreen 80391 DisplayPort 1.4 cable. GPU: 4070
- 24 replies
-
I really need some help here cause I'm at a loss, I decided to upgrade my ram from 2400 mhz 2x8 gb to 3600 mhz 2x16 gb, at first I put in both new ram sticks and my b550 tomahawk light up on cpu problem, then I decided to only try one and it was still cpu problem, decided to put in only one old one and now it lights up on ram, tried it without ram at all and it passes cpu and says ram problem, so i have no idea what is happening. At first I thought I might have shorted cpu but now it's passing so idk anymore.
-
Hi, we have always had trouble connecting any home devices that only uses 2.4ghz wifi to our network. Particularly our nanoleafs and roborock S8 vaccuum. It takes like 100 tries before we can get it to connect and even then it's sometimes a buggy experience. We are using the default Xfinity router which has been fine and realiable for everything else in our apartment but I don't know how to make something just try to connect to the 2.4 ghz network. Today our roborock lost connection and I can't get it back online. I tried splitting our 2.4 and 5ghz signals to separate wifis and it won't connect to the 2.4. seems like it wants to do it through my phone which will only accept the 5 ghz network. Even though I would consider myself very knowledgeable about computers my knowledge of all things Internet is very limited. Is there something special I need to do or is this just a limitations of the Xfinity router? The home devices are in the same room as the router.
-
I recently installed a Ryzen 9 5900X and my 4070 and I've had this problem of apps (even BIOS) launching in the wrong resolutions and becoming blurry, especially noticed with Steel Series GG and Valorant. I attached a video of what Steel Series is doing. Valorant however if launched in full screen mode, applies 3840x2160 or something along those lines. I've tried everything to fix this and nothing is helping... PLEASE HELP!! 2024-02-28 01-36-22.mkv
-
A couple of days ago my Steam Deck and an Anker battery just broke. For the Steam Deck there was no warning and no action which took place beforehand that could be an obvious cause of the issue. I just one day unplugged the device from the official Steam Deck charger and it did not turn on. The charging indicator light does not do anything either. When I say the Deck broke it BROKE. Just to clarify, there were no signs of life from the console. A little after I noticed a similar story for the Anker battery. I tried to charge my phone with it but it just would not charge. Then, I noticed the batteries indicator lights would not do anything. Just like the Steam Deck, the battery also showed absolutely zero signs of life. So I began considering what may have caused the issue. Currently I have no solid conclusion, but it is possible that the Steam Deck Charger could be the cause as that is the primary charger I use for both devices. Except possibly not, as I use the same charger for my phone and my phone functions (for the most part). So I am at a loss here, my Steam Deck ran out of warranty so warranty is not an option. As for the Anker battery I have yet to see.
-
I have tried to update to windows 11 a few times now. Always having an issue with it going all the way through the update, always ends up crashing and reverting back the update but windows keeps forcing me to try so it just cycles over and over every week. I know I could stop the updates but I just want it to work. My PC meets all the requirements etc for the update just draws errors only code I managed to get once was 0xc1900101.
-
I have owned and used this gaming pc for two years now never had a problem until yesterday. I had time so I updated my drivers and installed the newest windows 10 update after everything was downloaded I went to play the game I’ve played for years modern warfare 2019. I got through maybe one multiplayer match and the very next match my screen just froze I had to end the task and now no matter what I can’t play any call of duty’s. Sometimes I’ll make it through a game sometimes it crashes in the opening credits sometimes while sitting in lobby. Most of the time it will just freeze sometimes it will crash my whole pc and it will reboot. It happens with modern warfare 2019 and modern warfare 2. I have rolled back my graphic driver, scanned both game files for corruption they were good. I can lauch and play minecraft and fortnite just fine but those two games I can’t. I tried a stress test and my gpu did fine at 98% for five minutes with no error but when I extreme load test my cpu the stress test will sense errors when I do the medium test it’s fine i don’t know how to see the error or what the errors are I used occt free version. I finally got modern warfare 2019 to kinda work by lowering my screen refresh setting in game but now the game is super stuttering. Any advice on how to fix or figure out what’s wrong would be appreciated. only overclocking that is done is turning my ram up to 3200mhz. specs nivida GeForce RTX 3050 16gb gskill ripjaws WCD 1tb ssd intel i5-11400
-
Creating a system for someone with the following gigabyte A520I AC mother board, RTX 3060 m I Ventrus 2 GPU Ryzen 7 5700x corsair rm 750e 750w PSU Cooler master ML240L AIO cooler in a ROGz11 Case it turns on , fans spin, ramp down, shows screen and starts to boot, sometimes gets as far as loading the boot drive, then just shuts off. I’m a newer builder please help
- 1 reply
-
- troubleshoot
- pc
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
i recenlty got the cooler master mobius 120p argb fan. however when i try to connect my mother board (gigabyte z590 UD lga1200) using the D_LED, 3 pin connector, the fan doesnt light on any of the same type of connector. The 4 pin fan connector does work, just not the three pin. there is no header on the mobo called rgb or variation of it but there is "D_LED". looking at the manual D_LED outputs 5v, has 3 pins , pin defininition being [1.5v, 2. data, 3. no pin and 4. ground] the header does a line with the connector and it is designed for addressable lighting however the example they gave is for LED strips not fans (not sure if that makes a difference). it comes with two of these D_LED and pluging the cable to that header doesnt work. it is possible that cooler master pin orientation may be different but i am unable to verify as i can find it listed any where. so i am wondering what is the best way to fix this and get the funny light? do i need to get a hub or splitter? i just have the one rgb fan so im not sure if it is nessesary but i also dont know if it can help with compatability. or is it possible that the argb fan cable is busted and i should return it?