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I am planning on getting the Raijintek Triton 240 v2 cooler. I had a look at some reviews online and found quite a few people are complaining about cracked waterblocks etc. Has anyone used it, and if so, what is your findings/experience?

Hi! I don't have much time to type this, I need to shut my PC off because my CPU is burning up. Let me explain. I have a Raijintek Triton AIO water cooler, it has worked fine for over a year. Luke gave a good review on it. My CPU usually runs at less than 30*C on idle. Never went over 50 in its life. OKay so it started making an awful buzzing noise, and the CPU temps are skyrocketing. MSI Afterburner says that my CPU cores are running between 71-98*C. Very very bad. I'm worried about my Cooler and my PC. The buzzing is very loud. Is the pump just broken? Do I absolutely have no choice but to replace it with the stock Intel cooler? Please help! Any and all help is appreciated! EDIT: I took off the cooler, re-applied thermal paste, and by the grace of God is works. No more buzzing. Slightly higher temps, but I expect that. Thanks all! ------- OH, and this darn website won't work anymore! My main account is here, but it says "Something went wrong. Please try again" every time I try to log in through steam! I'm so frustrated

My rajintek triton has just started to have quite a few bubbles in the system, many very small ones. Now and again i can hear a sort of sloshing sound, when i assume the bubbles are passing through the pump Is this bad? should i do anything?

Disclaimer: The following problem only occurred for me at temperatures in excess of 80 degrees on my CPU. After ceasing stress testing and ramping up fans, the leak did stop. I didn't find anyone posting this issue when I Googled around, so I thought I'd share for posterity's sake. The Raijintek Triton AIO cooler began to leak for me when stress testing my CPU with my fans in a 'silent' mode with a side panel off. The leak is very slow, with a drop every 15 to 30 seconds, though I'd assume that it'd become more extreme as the temperatures increase. This issue should not occur in normal use cases. The leak starts right where the power cable for the pump comes out of the reservoir. If I had to guess, I'd say that the acrylic expanded in the heat more than whatever ring or filler sealing that spot did. I'd share a photo, but there really wouldn't be much to look at, considering it's just a Triton Red in a dusty PC with a paper towel under it. For anyone who Googled the product with 'leak' next to it, the other issue is that the liquid will vaporize over time, and the only way to replace the vaporized coolant is by taking off the 'warranty void if removed' sticker that covers the fill port. In my six or so months of owning the cooler, I've had to refill it twice to prevent air from moving through the loop. On the bright side, while my system was actively running, the liquid is not conductive, even giving the time I've been using it. My GPU is luckily, fine. Anyone willing to test the leaking issue, be sure to post if you had the issue. I wouldn't recommend you do, as I may have just gotten lucky that the leak stopped. But hey, if you have the balls or don't use it as your main cooler/old parts laying around, feel free.

Hey everybody so i created my own pc about 8 months ago and everything was working absolutely perfect. In June i went on holidays and left my pc at home. Two months later when i came back i found out that the pc wouldnt start or to put it better , it would start and then after 5-10seconds (the time wasnt the same everytime) it would shut down . I located the problem at my cpu and changed the watercooling with the stock cooler that came with the processor and now everything is working fine again . My question is what could be the reason behind my watercooling failing ? A friend of mine who is a technician told me that even if the watercooling had failed and it didnt work at all , even then just by being in contact with the surface of the processor it would provide enough heat dissipation for the computer to work at least 10~15 minutes. So basically he said that the only problem he could think was that the contact between the block and the cpu was little to none and thus the pc shut down to protect itself. I did however replaced the thermal paste and reattached the block but nothing changed at all . Any insights ?

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1DWM2m3 Amazon: http://geni.us/3Egs We have received a TON of requests to review The Rajintek Triton, a cooler that many people are calling the best looking AIO on the market right now. Does Luke agree?

Reviews please people, Has anyone/know someone who has tried this cooler out yet? Looking for some honest opinions on it. Cheers.

I don't have the time to do a proper review but I just installed my Triton I got off newegg for 84.99 on sale. I'll give you a taste of what I'm seeing. This is my first watercooler so my experience is limited but I will answer any questions that I can All in all I'm very happy with this cooler as my entry into watercooling what I'm running Raijintek Triton water cooler case-DIYpc Shadow-H01-bk (not recommended for this cooler!!!) i7 4790k at 4.7ghz (2) 8gb gskill ripjaws @1600 ASUS z97-a mobo corsair cs450m gold plus gigabyte g1 gtx960 silicon power 120gb ssd Western Digital Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM stock fans pulling on top (no more than 80% rpm) 4 cougar cf-t12s4 fans on (2)front, (1) rear (1) side Logisys 300mm dual cold cathode UV lights I was hitting about 72c+ using max setting on intel burn at stock clock on old CM212 hyper evo. same stock clock settings got me 60c on max with fans at 75% pulling on top I am able to safely oc to 4.7 and stay below 70c and 1.2v with fans under 80%. The fans are controllable with a dial controller that is connected via a 2 pin harness. The controller gives a good range of control but it is extremely sensitive and will seemingly go from ~40%to 100% in no time if you arent careful and slow moving. The fans themselves are really loud at 100%, they move a ton of air but they are super loud so I keep them under 80% even if I'm running synthetic tests. (they move so much air at 100% im not sure all of it is even going in the right direction haha) I leave the fans on 100% and control them with Speedfan (as I do with all my fans on all my computers) One thing to be careful of is keeping the air in the res instead of in the radiator. This proved to be very difficult for me since I mounted on top and the bubbles had a tendency to want to go up to the radiator. Keeping the block in the same orientation as it is installed (hoses on the bottom of the face) allowed me to keep the air in the res. The first time I installed I noticed that the res was totally full of liquid (it had some air in it before install) and if the air isn't in the res then its got to be in the radiator. This takes up some of your radiator space that would otherwise be full of liquid as it cools, and if enough air gets in there it could cause a blockage that could totally cut off water flow. I don't know if this is a problem exclusive to this cooler, I haven't seen a lot of other units with reservoirs on the block. It seemed like I got a 2c-3c difference between re installing with no air in the radiator. If anything I think that this cooler makes it easier to see where your air is because the hoses and res/block are clear so I dont mind this or think negatively of Raijintek because of it. Plus if you were front mounting the radiator lower than the block the air would go to the res automatically. Only other gripe I have with this is that the block is nickle plated copper, the radiator is aluminum. From what I've read this can cause corrosion issues if/when the nickle plating wears off and exposes the different metal. supposedly this is only a problem if the liquid inside is conductive and I would assume they are using distilled water or some other "non-conductive". I plan on changing the liquid before 1 year of usage with some sort of non conductive liquid for water coolers, probably UV just to make sure. I run the pump at 100% all the time, I have read that this is sometimes beneficial for pump life and I haven't found anything to the contrary yet but please let me know if you know differently. I just Email Raijintek at 4:54pm 3/8/15 via Facebook asking about the pump speeds, ill try my hardest to remember to post their response. I have contacted them this way twice before and gotten very prompt and helpful responses. A Raijintek rep got back to me (2:02am on 3/9/15) and said that it would not be a problem to drop pump speed down to 75% for idle loads The LED lights do not seem as bright as I thought they would be, this may be because I've only got two led fans and my case window is tinted, they do change with the pump power but since I stay at 100 so do the LEDs. at this time I don't have any additional lighting in my case besides the two led fans so I cant expect any crazy light shows. The picture seems to capture more of the light from the LEDs, they don't look quite that bright in real life Also in my opinion the hoses on this thing stink (literally) since I've put it in. It is the worst and most noticeable when the computer has been off (stagnant air) for several hours. I'll take the case off and notice the smell of maybe rubber and antifreeze, would be the only way to describe it. I've looked extensively for a week everyday now and seen absolutely no evidence of water or liquid anywhere it shouldn't be. I can put my nose directly on the hoses and smell it coming directly from them. The smell has gotten less and less noticeable everyday and it now pretty much gone. EDIT: I added a couple cathode tube UV lights and was surprised to find that the stock blue fluid is UV reactive so much for a quick review