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Hi I need help building a desktop PC. I'm a starting day trader but a full time software developer for now, and I put very heavy loads on my machine with multiple trading platforms open at once with live data updating charts and quotes, etc., a screen capture recording 2 screens during market hours, plus a couple of opera/chrome tabs opened, I will probably have league of legends as the only game on this PC. I open up a virtual machine using Virtual box for now with archlinux on it, I'm considering buying VMware license to properly utilize the machine's hardware instead of simply emulating it. If this helps the programs I use the most are trade-ideas, think or swim, dastrader, OBS, tradingview (web based desktop app) I already have 3 uhd monitors, might add 2 more later during the year, maybe buy a couple of 4k monitors. I also would like this desktop to be displayed, instead of just hidden below the desk, so I was thinking adding some corsair custom water cooling, I know it's overkill but I would like to think of that as an option. Thanks. Budget (including currency): CAD 3000 Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Das Trader, OBS, League of legends

Prelude My best friend of nearly 30 years is in dire need of a new PC. He was recently married so he and his wife are saving up for a home. My buddy is not a PC gamer at all, I kinda force it upon him... so his PC's have been 100% supplied by me for nearly the past decade. As a console gamer, he usually gets last dibs on PC component hand-me-downs; that was until COVID-19 hit and we started playing WWZ together online. Modern games run on his PC at relatively playable performance (lowest settings of course) but it's really rough, at best. So I'd like to gift him a relatively modern gaming PC, but without spending (much) of my own money. Which leads us to... The Zero Budget Build Challenge I am NOT allowed to spend even 1¢ of my own money directly on components for this build. I am allowed to trade used PC components & accessories for parts needed in this build. I am allowed to hand-me-down used PC components from my personal PCs to harvest parts for this build. I am allowed to incur expenses from purchasing hardware for my personal builds and traveling costs for trades. I am allowed to sell or trade components harvested from my buddy's current system. I am allowed to spend money from harvested components (above) to purchase parts for this build. I'll be updating the OP as I go along so you don't need to read the entire thread to find its current progress: Day 0 His current "gaming" PC is a mish-mash of my hand-me-downs from over the years. So this is the benchmark to beat, and the bar is pretty low. CPU: Intel Core i5-750 2.66 GHz 4c/8t (Lynnfield) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI P55-CD53 ATX LGA1156 Motherboard Memory: 8GB (4 x 2 GB) Kingston KVR DDR3-1333 DDR3-1333 CL7 Memory Storage: 1TB Seagate Momentus XT SSHD Video Card: XFX Radeon R7 360 2 GB Core Edition Video Card Case: NZXT H230 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply Optical: Lite-On DVD\CD Drive Other: USB 3.0 Internal PCIe AIC I don't presently have interior shots of his current dinosaur rig, but I have an exterior shot of when it was originally (re)built around 2013: Day 1 So right away I looked at the CPU and knew that Lynnfield relic would be a problem, especially at 1080P (his monitor's resolution). Browsed OfferUp and briefly considered making a trade offer for an Intel Core i7-870 listed for $15. Of course, even that would choke the GPU I had in mind for this build, so I aimed a little higher. Haswell prices are still way too high and I knew that would hurt my chances at making a trade with my relatively worthless stuff, so Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge would have to do. Minutes later, I fired off a trade offer for an Intel Core i7-3770 (non-K) and H61 motherboard combo in exchange for an old GTX 750 Ti that was sitting in a drawer. Seller accepted! Considering a used GTX 750 Ti goes for $40-70 USD, and the i7-3770 is closer to $70-90, I definitely traded up. Yeah boyos, that's a PCI slot. The dust was included at no charge. Also RIP USB 3.0... no headers for it, but not really important. Drove there and back (1+ hours in LA traffic), got her home, dusted her off, and hooked her up to a spare Corsair CX500 (to be traded later) and it booted right up. Was pleasantly surprised to be greeted with a familiar UEFI considering how dated the rest of this board's components are. As of now, the Zero Budget Build specs: CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Intel Stock Cooler / TBD Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 8GB (2x4GB) Kingston DDR3-1333 Low profile Storage: TBD Video Card: TBD Case: TBD Power Supply: TBD Optical: TBD Day 2 While we like the elegant minimalism of the NZXT H230, modern designs with mesh front panels are objectively better for thermals. Having struggled with thermals with the H230 when it was my father's case, I started the hunt for mATX mini-tower or ATX mid-tower case on OfferUp. The only requirements were: A. Mesh front panel that supported 2x 120mm (or larger) intake fans. B. Support for at least one 5.25" optical bay (friend uses the CD\DVD drive). C. Support for modern cable management features D. Support for mATX. There were virtually zero cases on OfferUp that checked all these requirements... until by some miracle, there was actually someone selling/trading a brand new Cougar MX330-G case. I pinged him an offer to trade for my spare Corsair CX500 or my spare EVGA 700B power supply, and he accepted the CX500. The trader was local, so I was there and back within 20 minutes! My buddy's current PC (the i5-750 rig) is not at my house, so with a new case a good chunk of the core components, I'm now able to begin a substantial portion of his build without harvesting any components from his current PC. Since we traded the Corsair CX500, the spare EVGA 700B will be his new-ish PSU. Tossed in some spare 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1333 low profile memory, a stock Intel cooler (from my i7-6700), spare Fractal Design 120mm fans, and my spare Asus PCE-AC68 WiFi NIC, then we were basically ready to rock. As of Day 2, the Zero Budget Build specs. CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Intel Stock Cooler / TBD Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 8GB (2x4GB) Kingston DDR3-1333 Low profile Storage: TBD Video Card: TBD Case: Cougar MX330-G Power Supply: EVGA 700B 80+ Bronze Optical: TBD Day 3 My buddy dropped off his current/old computer so I could begin backing up / cloning his drives. I also needed to harvest some parts from this thing, such as the 2x 120mm Antec fans, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, and the LG DVD/CD RW drive. Next I formatted his new OS drive, which was my OCZ TR150 480GB SATA SSD that I no longer needed due to getting a 2TB WD Blue SATA SSD this past July: The cloning source was his current/old 1TB Seagate Momentus XT. Had to shrink the partition down enough so it would fit the OCZ TR150, and it was quite a learning experience: it took up all of day 3. Basically uninstalled some old games, defragged the drive, disabled system restore and paging, which finally would allow me to shrink the partition down to 460GB. Defragging took most of the evening, so I let that run through the night. As of Day 3, the Zero Budget Build specs. CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 8GB (2x4GB) Kingston DDR3-1333 Low profile Storage: OCZ TR150 SATA SSD 480GB Storage: Seagate Momentus XT SATA SSHD 1TB Video Card: TBD Case: Cougar MX330-G Power Supply: EVGA 700B 80+ Bronze Optical: LG DVD/CD RW Drive Day 4 Cloned the Seagate drive first thing in the morning, then migrated the OCZ SSD to the Zero Budget build along with the Hyper 212 EVO (fricken annoying installation). Greeted with no video / no POST. WTF. I had tested the i7-3770 and motherboard barely a few days ago! Installed my buzzer, tried again. No POST, no beeps. I removed the RAM, got the "RAM error" beep code as expected. Installed 1 stick of RAM, POSTed fine. Moved the 1 stick to slot 2: no POST and no beeps. Well shit. Looks like slot 2 got screwed somehow. Took a compressed air can and blew out DIMM slot 2, and still no POST, no beeps. No signs of corrosion or damage on the board. Figured there was no harm in checking the CPU, so I popped off the Hyper 212 and the CPU to get a good look at the LGA socket. Bingo. A dust bunny had somehow made its way into and behind the CPU. Mind blown. Socket cleaned out with air can. Reinstalled CPU, cooler, both RAM DIMMs. POSTed right up. And now for the crown jewel of the Zero Budget Build. Due to upgrading my sister's build, I re-inherited my old Asus GTX 1070 Ti Cerberus, which was a video card originally marketed toward internet cafe builders. While I was upgrading my sister, I grabbed a kit of 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3-1600 from an old build she doesn't use anymore, and installed the Kingston low profile kit in exchange. Compared to his Radeon R7 360... The GTX 1070 Ti created a new problem since it blocked every single PCIe port, except the PCI port at the very bottom. So to retain WiFi on this machine, I had to put away my Asus PCE-AC-68U WiFi NIC and went to dig out a PCI WiFi NIC. The ketchup and mustard is strong... None of the colors make any sense. But that's what you get in a Zero Budget build! Booted up WWZ, maxed out its settings at 1080P and ran the benchmark. Killed it at 90 fps average. Dropped shadows to High instead of Ultra and the benchmark jumped to over 100fps average. Very pleased! Day 4 specs of the Zero Budget Build: CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 8GB (2x4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3-1600 Storage: OCZ TR150 SATA SSD 480GB Storage: Seagate Momentus XT SATA SSHD 1TB Video Card: Asus GTX 1070 Ti Cerberus Case: Cougar MX330-G Power Supply: EVGA 700B 80+ Bronze Optical: LG DVD/CD RW Drive Day 5 The Zero Budget build is going to my buddy this Sunday, December 6th, so I'm putting the finishing touches on things that have been annoying me, aesthetically. I designed and 3D printed an IO shield out of black PETG, and simply hot glued it to the top, bottom, and along the VGA out. I'm not much of an engineer so I don't really have the wit or time (takes 1 hour to print each prototype) to figure out how to design something that could just snap into place. The above IO shield didn't quite fit, so I edited the model a little bit and the 2nd one was nearly perfect. Next I gutted and stripped the motherboard down the barebones so that I could go after the blue plastics with some matte black acrylic paints. I want the theme to be the typical (pre-RGB) black/red gamer aesthetic. I was worried about bricking the board the entire time, but I was careful and slow. It's definitely a 10 footer, if you look at just the right angles you can find blue areas where my brush could not reach. IMO, it looks much better without the blue peeking through on the DIMM and 24-pin slots. I wish the 24-pin connector could be red instead, but white is fine. Day 6 I know I said that this was supposed to be delivered this past Sunday, but my entire family (kids and all) caught the flu. Even though we were relatively well by Sunday, we felt it was best to avoid potential spread by waiting another week. Our new pick-up date is December 19. This allowed me some extra time to sell of the old Radeon R7 360 and the old 8GB G.Skill DDR3-1333 to upgrade his memory. Found this 16GB (2x8GB) kit on ebay for $47 after tax, bought it, and it just arrived today. Just passed Memtest86 as I typed this post, so I'm just about ready to wrap this thing up and give it to him. I already have a buyer for the R7 360 2GB for $40 and I can probably flip the 8GB G.Skill DDR3-1600 kit for $30, which brings me back "under budget." If the RX 5700 XT ever gets added, I'll just reclaim the GTX 1070 Ti and sell it for a fat profit. Final Zero Budget build specs: CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 16GB (2x8GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3-1866 CL10 Storage: OCZ TR150 SATA SSD 480GB Storage: Seagate Momentus XT SATA SSHD 1TB Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Cerberus Case: Cougar MX330-G Power Supply: EVGA 700B 80+ Bronze Optical: LG DVD/CD RW Drive Day 7 Due to some major Windows issues or a potential virus, we were up til midnight reinstalling Win10 and his games. Ended up dropping in the 3060 then ran Superposition just so I could get home and into bed. The previous score was ~3800, and the new score: Current specs: CPU: Intel Core i7-3770 3.9 GHz 4c/8t (Ivy Bridge) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Motherboard: Asus P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA1155 Memory: 8GB (2x4GB) G.Skill Ripjaws X DDR3-1600 Storage: OCZ TR150 SATA SSD 480GB Storage: Seagate Momentus XT SATA SSHD 1TB Video Card: EVGA RTX 3060 XC 12GB Case: Cougar MX330-G Power Supply: EVGA 700B 80+ Bronze Optical: LG DVD/CD RW Drive

Disclaimers: I'm still learning. I can be wrong. This is not financial or legal advice, just me explaining what I've learned thus far. YMMV, but I'm not responsible for anything this knowledge is used for. All numbers are arbitrary, but somewhat realistic examples. It's confusing. I know. Tis life. I tried my best to explain it accurately. Concise is not something I do unless forced. So I've been learning stock trading basics for a while (terms, patterns, concepts, etc.), and I've been practicing along the way. Unfortunately, my program that I use resets sometimes (randomly) so I can't keep a running total of money lost/earned in this practice. Here is a picture of the program: Currently, I've lost 17% of my (paper, fake, monopoly) money, but this is a long play and I expected something different to happen (the huge dip in the DJIA was unexpected and threw me off). I should start making money Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday of next week on this setup. To kind of help you read the above image, the top left is my totals. They give you $200,000 of paper money to invest, but $100,000 is for one type of trading and the other $100,000 is for the other type of trading. So it's more like I have $100,000 since I only trade with one half of it. Net Liq & Day Trades is what I use, and I don't "do" Day Trading. Right now anyway. I'm keeping an eye on Abbott and Tesla for reasons. I didn't straight up buy stock in either company. I purchased a Put for Abbott and a Call for Tesla. This means I make money if Tesla goes up and if Abbott goes down. Unfortunately, the opposite happened, so I lost like 30%, but it's reversing now. The bottom row of charts is the Weekly charts for Abbott, Tesla, & the Dow Jones Industrial Average (average of the an entire market's performance, not THE market, but A market). The top row is the daily chart for those things. But yeah. Still learning. I was really bummed out that the program reset on me. I had doubled my money on a stock going up $1 by selling Puts (literally, I had $100,000 worth of Puts and after I sold them, I had $200,000+). It was very lucky that the stock moved so strongly, but I knew it would go up. Options are Calls & Puts (There may be more, but I've only learned about these). The easiest analogy I've found to understand them is thus: Calls are Coupons on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a call for TSLA (Tesla) at $250, I have a coupon giving me the right to buy TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. Puts are Price Guarantees on a stock price. i.e. If I buy a put for TSLA at $250, I have a price guarantee that I can sell TSLA's stock at $250, no matter what the price currently is. So Calls are for buying stock, and Puts are for selling stock. If you are wondering how they make money doing that, if I buy a Call for TSLA at $250, but their current Stock Price is $255.50, I will pay $5.50 per Call. Then I will pay $250 per share of stock. So they still get the full price, at the time I purchased the Call, of the stock. However, Calls & Puts can expire. Just like normal Coupons and Price Guarantees. If I buy either of them, but I never buy or sell the stock, I lost money, but not a lot of money (what is $5.50?) That's one way the companies themselves make money on Options. What a Call & Put give you is time. If you think a stock is going up, you can buy a Call (Coupon) to buy that stock at, say $250, but then wait until it hits $300 to buy it at $250. So you know for a fact you are going to profit. Or you can let the Call expire because the stock dropped to $200 and you were wrong about it going up. So buying it at $250 would be stupid as it's currently $200. Options are just that. Options. They buy you time to think about whether you want to buy/sell the stock or not. Just for reference, here is how you make money buying & selling options (Calls & Puts): Buy Calls = You make money if the stock goes up - Because you have a coupon that says you can buy the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $300, you buy it cheaper than it currently is, then sell it for a profit. Buy Puts = You make money if the stock goes down - Because you have a price guarantee that says you can sell the stock at $250, if the stock goes to $200, you can sell it for more than it currently is. Sell Calls = You make money if the stock goes down - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to sell stock to you at $250 or wtv. Sell Puts = You make money if the stock goes up - I'm still trying to understand why and how this works. It's complicated because you are selling someone else or a company the right to buy stock from you at $250 or wtv. What each scenario does is it basically decides how much money you can profit or lose in the trade. i.e. if I sell a Put, my maximum profit is capped at 100% (double my money), but my maximum loss is infinite (I lose all of my money). However, the reason you would want to sell a Put is because you sold something. You immediately get paid for it, but the amount is small. And it's very likely you will profit, and very unlikely you will lose all your money. These are the things to consider when doing a trade with options: Profit potential (i.e. max profit is 100%, infinite, or what-have-you) Loss Potential (i.e. 100% AKA infinite, or what-have-you) Probability of both of those happening (i.e. odds of profit vs odds of loss) Each of those choices above (Buy Calls, Buy Puts, Sell Calls & Sell Puts) have different values for how much you can earn/lose and what the odds of each thing happening are. That's generally what I've learned so far. This is just practice mode, I'll give an update when I move to real money mode.

Hey, guys! Can you recommend PC parts/components for a Trading PC that would be compatible and can handle a 5-Monitor setup well? I want to build a strong enough PC meant mostly for stock/options trading, kinda heavy researching, schoolworks, and some light to moderate gaming as well. I'm not really an expert with PC building, although I am fairly familiar with some aspects and some minor things. As for the monitors, I plan to have 4 22" flat, frameless monitors, and a 32" curved monitor. Perhaps you could create some PCPartPicker List or something similar for me. My budget is $3,400. Thank you!

Witch desktop would you choose. Should i go with AMD or Intel. Yes I know that you can build your own for cheaper. I have a $3,000 budget on the desktop Looking at this one, anything i need to change/customize let me know. https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/AMD-Creator-Daily-Deal https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/Mothers-Day-Sale-AMD-Ryzen-9 https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/AMD-Creator-Pro

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Hello, I'm new here. I ran across the Linus Community and am impressed!! I ran across Linus searching for some rackmount build options. I want to build a great home server. Business minded. 1. Budget / Location: TN USA $2500-$3000 ( If anyone thinks I can get out cheaper GREAT) 2. Aim: To knock out 2 birds with one stone. I'm in need of an upgrade. Wife is in need of an upgrade. - I am actively trading markets.. ALL I DO IS STREAM market data... I run 3 programs.. Period (don't laugh) * I run one automated program * There is a lot here as far as streaming live data. But no extreme backup / storage desires. -She is a recording artist.. She records on MAC and Edits on Windows.. I want her to be able to transfer data FAST without compromise.. And Archive all recordings. -We both have lite extra business we use these for as well. Since Storage is so cheap now... I would love to have an archive system for her to save ALL of her recordings in a easy manner. 3. Monitors: I need 2 on my desk (nothing insane no 4k) I would like her to have 1/2 on hers. ** Ideally -- She and I could share a Trading workspace ( I have 2 monitors Downstairs in my office) She have 1 that we both could be in simultaneously. *** Then she have her own independent "recording workspace monitors" 1/2 (probably just 1) I hoping by me going over the above.. you kinda get what I'm going for... I want POWER and a "Workspace" environment for the both of us to share in a sense and do business in. I'm sure this is a subpar topic but am new to the whole concept of home server style setup. I just want to knock this thing out of the park and do it right the first time. Thank You so much in advance.. Matt

I want to buy some AMD stock (not looking for criticism), but this is my first time buying stock and I'm really confused. At the time of writing this, it's worth $10.18. Why are none of the values on here even close to that?

Hello beautiful Linus Tech Tips community & how is everybody doing! As you will be able to tell from my question in a moment, I am not expert when it comes to Cryptocurrencies. I have trades stocks and done well, but I've never bought/sold Cryptocurrencies. Now, if I were to purchase Ripple and decided to sell it the next week for instance, can I just unload/dump it like a stock, or does there have to be a Seller wanting to buy my Ripple currencies? https://coinmarketcap.com/all/views/all/ Ripple has the 3rd largest Market Cap, and its value is below 25 dollar cents. I understand there are different sites, like online stock brokers, that will allow you to buy/sell Cryptocurrencies, but I don't seem to find one that sells Ripple and has an actual phone # to call. Thanks in advance.

Hi! What GPU and PC components do you guys reccomend for a 5-Monitor setup? I'm planning on building a strong PC meant for mostly options trading/schoolwork and maybe for some gaming. As for the budget, I'm not really on the tight side, so I'm fine with kinda expensive parts.

Hello, so i am a fairly novice programmer, i have made an algorithm on tensorflow that predicts stock market prices and i would like to test it on a live platform. i how ever lack the skills to link it my tensorflow file to a trading broker. i do not have a good understanding of APIS. i am looking for help to implement the Machine learning algorithm on a live platform. I will provide you with all the code i have. any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hey guys, so I am looking at trading my Razerblade (14 v6 or something I think, their naming system is confusing) its the 1080p model with a i7-6700HQ @ 2.60GHz and a GTX 1060 with 1TB of SSD storage, for a gaming PC with a i7-7700k, Evga GTX 1080 TI, 32gb corsair vengance RAM (not sure if DDR3 or DDR4 I have asked him, but he hasn't gotten back to me), 550W psu, 240gb Kingston a400 SSD and a 2TB WD green. I just want some thoughts on if this trade is worthwhile or if I am trading my Razerblade away for far too cheap. Any advice or input would be appreciated. Also sorry if I put this in the wrong part of the forum, this is my first post.

Hi, so I really want to buy Forza Horizon 4 when it comes out, but I dont want to use my debit card, because I dont really trust digital purchases. I searched if there is a physical copy of the game, but I can buy it only digitally for pc. After that I got an idea. What if I trade my old games for a new game. I have like 2-3 games which I dont play at all and when I bought them they were like 60 dollars. So I was thinking if I can trade those games to get a code for Forza Horizon 4? I found 1 website, but it is not world wide and that is a problem, because I live in Bulgaria. So, if someone knows this kind of a website and has used it please reply to me.

Hello, I am building a computer that is going to be used for day trading with 12 monitors and looking for some help with determining the components needed for this beast. I am going to have a budget of about 1300-1400 dollars and maybe a bit above. It is going to be running 12 1080p monitors

Hi everybody! I just want to ask, after PUBG banned trading in their game, can you still play matches, earn Battle Points (A.K.A BP), buy something with the battle points in the game shop (like a case) and then put it on sale in the Steam community market? That's it! Bye!

So, I have two XFX - AMD Radeon RX 570 4GB's and it's around the same price for a Titan X 12 GB. Definitely should have gotten the Titan X, but now I have to go through this. I need some help on the best place to trade/sell these cards.

I just traded an i7-860 for what was supposed to be a Radeon HD 6870 but instead he gave me an EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW which is amazing. I'm pretty sure the CPU is/was toast (he was fully aware) and I have no idea if the Ti works or not. Was wondering if there is any possibility that a messed up graphics card could destroy my mobo/other parts if I test it out.

Hey, @Slick what was the sponsor a while ago that you did for a stock trading company? It was for like.. one or two vids and then you never showed them again. If you could dm me the link that would be awesome!

Hello LTT Forum, I got a offer from someone i don't know that he wants to trade his Gigabyte 690 for my MSI GTX 960 4G +50€ It sounds like a good deal cuz the 690 is way better than the 960. But the problem is that i dont know if its that futureproof and if its even good today. Im a 1080p Gamer who plays alot of Graphicintensive games like The Division, BF4, Far Cry 4, GTA V and such. Is it good to trade it ? I dont know if it overheats or something, or if my i5 4460 Bottlenecks it. I know there are some scaling problems and stuttering with SLI and its basicly a SLI 680 Should i go for it or not? You guys probartly know more about that than me, thanks for reading. Have a good day !

Hello LLT Forum, i have a question, Someone wants to trade his Inno3d GeForce GTX 970 Combat (!) for my MSI GeForce GTX 960 Gaming 4G (+40€) The problem is, i dont know if its any good, i dont have much experience with Inno3d cards and there is no proper Benchmark on the web atm. It looks pretty small to me with only 1 little cooling fan, compared to mine with 2 Twin Frozr Fans which are quiet and effective. Does it still have the real Power from a proper 970 from a Big company like MSI or Gigabyte ? i wanna play The Division on proper grafics and not on low Is the Trade really worth it or not, i need some opinions from some experts here Thanks for reading and have a good day.

I'm looking for a graphics card that can support up to 4 individual screens (not merged) under $100 OR 2 dual display cards. It is NOT for gaming purposes so it doesn't have to be super high end, I will be using it for trading purposes only. Also, will my choice of CPU determine whether I can use 4 screens or not? If so, then which CPU should I use? (Again, low budget) Thanks!

My brother wants me to build him a PC, it wont be a gaming PC it will be for trading stocks. So productivity, he wants to be able to run up to 10 programs at once to monitor his stocks, he wants 2 monitors and he has a few different price budgets, $600, $900 and $1200.

I'm really interested in making an actual profit on CS:GO so I can feel better about buying a $50 but I can't actually seem to find a method that reliably works. The whole market is saturated with everyone trying to do the same thing and no one will trade up, quicksell, etc How do you do this reliably?

Whats up? I'm a part time stock trader and a full time student. I'm looking for a build that can run up to 6 monitors in the future, but for now 3 or 4 would be perfect. I need a possessor that can run multiple complex trading platforms as well as newer games. I play fallout, GTA, and other heavy games. I would like some substantial storage 2 or more TB. I'm not familiar with the benefits of SSD in my rig. I need a rig that is WIFI capable due to the location. Other than that I don't have any other requirements. Any comments would be great, Thanks a lot! My budget is $1500-2000. (Depending on the performance of the rig, the monitors and peripherals don't have to be included in the budget.)

****IMPORTANT CHANGE**** **Google Wallet has changed now. Paypal is now the only safe way to pay online. DO NOT use anything else.** Hello, To start off, I am a very experienced buyer/seller on forums as well as Amazon and Ebay. I've been doing this for over 4 years and recently, I've gotten a lot of questions on how it works because most people here are new to trading on forums. Buying and selling on forums can be extremely safe if done right. I have never been scammed or lost money due to a transaction with someone on a forum. FOR BUYERS First thing you should do when you see an item you might be interested in buying is check their reputation and feedback for past trades. The primary way to do this is through heatware. This is a website where sellers and buyers leave feedback for each other after a transaction is completed. Mine is at: http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=95302 I currently have +30 positive and +1 neutral. Unfortunately I got the neutral because the buyer wouldn't tell me about the problem and just gave me the neutral. Communication is very important. Contact the other party if there is something wrong with the transaction. Not every transaction gets feedback so the seller likely has more trades then actual feedback. I only confirm heatware when the buyer asks for it so only about 10% of my transactions are actually confirmed on Heatware. Other forums might have their own feedback system as well. I know OCN does and they might provide that feedback. EBAY FEEDBACK MEANS NOTHING Ebay gives feedback points very easily and ebay is very strict on their sellers so any feedback they earned is pretty much forced. Not to say there aren't good sellers on ebay but it doesn't hold much value on forums. If your seller has positive reviews then you are very likely to not be scammed. However, there is still a chance they will so proceed with caution still. If the seller is new and has no reviews then it is still fine to go ahead but only use payment options that provide protection. I will usually only use Paypal for sellers without any feedback. The next step is to contact the seller for details or negotiate if you think the price is high. Not all sellers will negotiate prices. Almost all of my prices are firm. I may move $10 or $20 depending on the value of the item and how far I have to ship it but I usually put my lowest price in the ad. Do your best to not lowball. It is offensive to lowball sellers. Also ask for more pictures if the picture in the ad is bad or you want to see something specific. IF THE SELLER OR BUYER ASKS FOR ID OR PASSPORT OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT, WALK AWAY. There is ZERO reason for anyone to ask for this. This can be a potential identity theft situation. All they should ask for is email and addresses. If they are shipping Fedex they may ask for a phone number as well because Fedex requires it. After that, you will pay for the item. There are two payment options that I trust and will use and that is Paypal and Google Wallet. I do not like Paypal as a company but they are still the best option to use. I use Google Wallet for established traders that I trust. Google Wallet protection is a bit spotty so only use it for people that have previous trades. Google Wallet is no longer a recommended payment method. Paypal should be the only method used. NEVER USE PAYMENT OPTIONS THAT DO NOT GIVE PROTECTION SUCH AS PAYPAL FRIENDS AND FAMILY (OTHERWISE KNOWN AS PAYPAL GIFT), BITCOIN OR OTHER CRYTOCURRENTCY, OR BANK TRANSFERS/CHECKS. No matter what their reputation is, there is still a chance they will scam you. The only exception to this rule is that I will use cash for local transactions that you meet in person. Have that person test the item if possible though. Sometimes it is not possible but they can still be legit and typically, they are. The seller should provide tracking soon after payment or shipment depending on if you buy a label online or buy it at the post office. If you ask the seller for tracking information and he does not provide tracking, then something may be wrong with the transaction. Sometimes they just forget to forward the number to you but if they say there is no tracking for the package, then they are lying. Pretty much all relevant mailing methods have tracking numbers these days. The only exceptions are unregistered international mail and domestic first class letters (plain white envelope with a postage stamp). It is very rare for someone to be using those methods for something bought online on a forum though. 99% of the time, this will end as a positive transaction with the seller getting their money and the buyer getting the item they want. In the case that they don't however, report it to Paypal or Google Wallet and they will investigate and return your money if it is indeed a scam. IF THEY SHIPPED SOMETHING TO YOU THAT WAS NOT WHAT YOU ORDERED ON PURPOSE TO SCAM YOU, THAT IS MAIL FRAUD WHICH IS A FELONY. Report them to the US Postal Inspection Service by filling out the form here: http://ehome.uspis.gov/fcsexternal/default.aspx There are likely similar services with postal services from other countries but I am not familiar with them specifically. For Sellers The first thing to do when selling is to take pictures of your item and figure out pricing. Most places require the piece of paper with your username and the date on it in the picture. This is called the "proof of ownership" on here and "timestamps" over at hardwareswap. The best way to know pricing is to look at other used listing on forums and take the average price. Sometimes that is not possible though which then I will look at ebay and Amazon used prices and take off anywhere from 5-20% depending on the type of item and it's price. Typically it's closer to 10% though. And obviously the lower the price, the faster it will sell. If you are in desperate need for cash, you may need to sell for lower than market price. Shipping will typically be included in the price as well and you will be expected to pay for shipping. You may charge for shipping separately but be sure to state this clearly. If not, people will assume your shipping is included in the price. For example, you can say this item you are selling for has a price of $80 + shipping costs. This will tell the buyer that the $80 price does not include shipping costs. On the other hand, if you say the price is $80 shipped, that means shipping costs is included in the $80. Also, you may not ask for any fees associated with payment services like Paypal. That is against most forum's rules since it is against Paypal's ToS. You should instead raise the price of the item to account for this. So if you want to net $50 for an item, you can add $10 to account for shipping and another $2 for fees. So you will sell this item for $62 shipped. How much you add for shipping and fees of course depends on what item you are selling and how much it is worth. You may not be able to get as much as you want though since there is a limit to how much people want to pay. However, if they are asking like 60% off new prices for current hardware, then they are probably lowballing you. I usually walk away from those deals because I can get more than that pretty much anywhere else. That is your choice though. Once you have your photos and know your pricing, create a new ad and wait for buyers to contact you. Once you have a buyer and have agreed upon a price, get their email and send either a payment request through Google Wallet or an invoice through Paypal. Be specific on what they are paying for and the condition of the items. I usually also put my return policy on the invoice. Once payment has cleared, the next thing to do would be to ship the item. I have a stock of boxes and packaging supplies from things I've bought so I get those for free. If you do need to buy some, you can get a huge roll of bubble wrap for pretty cheap off of Amazon. I buy my tape from Sam's Club for $15 for a 6pack of Scotch/3M packaging tape. USPS will provide free boxes that you can order off of their website as well. They typically take a week or two from the order date to get to you. Please only use these boxes for the service they are mean't for. Abuse will lead them to take the service away and is also illegal. Regional rate boxes are the best value and I use them for most of my packages. The Regional rate A will charge 2 lbs as long as it fits so anything over 2 lbs can be shipped cheaper using this. The side loading version can fit most gpus without it's box and some motherboards as well as other items. For things that go a long distance, I usually use flat rate boxes but that is rare since flat rate is typically a rip off. Shipping by the pound in a plain box is usually the cheapest if regional rate does not work. For large packages, Fedex might be cheaper. Create an account on their since their price without an account is actually about 25% more expensive. It doesn't cost anything to create an account. You won't get a quote with the discount price without an account. I usually use my Google Wallet card for that though because Fedex has a habit of charging you a higher price weeks after you shipped the thing. Don't know why they do that but to counter it, I use a card that will be declined if there is no money on it. They will ship you an invoice and all you need to do is call Fedex and tell them you got an invoice for something you have already paid for and they will cancel it. Packing is also very easy. Shipping items in the original item box is the safest. Put the item in the box and put that into a shipping box and fill the rest of the space in the box with packaging material like more bubble wrap, packing peanuts, air packets, or paper. If you do not have the original box, ship the item in an antistatic bag (or a brown paper bag if you do not have an antistatic bag) and wrap it in bubble wrap. Then put it in a shipping box like you would if you had the original box. Fill up the rest of the shipping box and tape it shut. BUY SHIPPING LABELS ONLINE Buying postage at the post office or shipping center is more expensive and offers ZERO advantages. Labels can be purchased directly from the shipper's website like USPS.com or Fedex.com or through other services like Paypal or Stamps.com. **January 17th update** USPS prices went up as of January 17th, 2016. It is still the cheapest way to ship most of the time, however, buying labels at USPS.com is no longer cheaper than at the post office. The only way now to get cheap labels without paying for a subscription like stamps.com is through paypal. You can use www.paypal.com/shipnow or their multi-order shipping tool to buy shipping labels without a transaction through Paypal. You may choose to buy insurance and signature confirmation but if you do not, YOU are taking the risk and not the buyer. You need to decide if you are willing to spend the extra money for these services and if you are willing to take the risk of losing the item due to the package being lost or destroyed in transit. Tape the label onto the package and drop it off or arrange for pick-up. Follow up with the buyer after they have received the package. You can then exchange feedback if you would like to. Hopefully, your buyer will be happy with the item and the transaction will be positive. If there is an issue, such as the buyer claiming the card doesn't work or something like that, give them a label to ship it back and test the item once you get it. If it is truly dead, give the buyer a full refund including shipping fees. If it is not, refund them their payment except the shipping fees so that you break even and then try to find another buyer. This whole process should be recorded on video as evidence in case a paypal dispute is opened. I may have missed something but I believe that I was pretty thorough. Feel free to ask questions here and I will edit the original post if I remember something I missed. Edit: Fixed some bad wording.