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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • Moving to the PC Master Race
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  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
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  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
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  • Taylor borie's Blog
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  • Recommendations for water cooling
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
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  • R4 Build #2
  • RAVE
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  • PC Spec help
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  • ZonkyHD
  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
  • SirMonti's Blog
  • PC Issues
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  • Which headphones
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
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  • Drummaboy57's Blog
  • A techy blog
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  • Jake's Tech Selects
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  • PSU Upgrade?
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  • handymanshandle's Blog of Blogginess
  • one fault about amd GPUs
  • For the Noobs
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  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
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  • THE BEAST
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Noob Builder
  • Love Minecraft Blog
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  • Sound Card suggestions?
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  • Windows on a laptop?
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  • B1tKru5h3r (My workstation)
  • Ultraretrotech
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  • Xenift's BuildVille
  • TELL US YOUR PC SPECS
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  • MrUnknownEMC's Christmas Giveaway
  • shadowbyte
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  1. my speed's randomly decrease with my TP Link range extender I've tried many troubleshooting steps and none of them have worked I have tried factory setting it unplugging and plugging it back in reconnecting the range extender to the network and turning on and off DHCP nothing seems to be fixing the problem someone help me please
  2. Hello everyone, I just bought a Bluetooth Adapter from Amazon, this one, the TP-Link UB500. And i have my concerns because i think is not a legit product, in the Bluetooth config panel from Windows 10 says that i had a "TP-Hink" i was looking for a webpage to check the legitimity of the product but i didn't found anything, is this legit? Otherwise, in the Device manager says it correctly W10 Control panel: Device manager:
  3. I have faced the same issue. I have tried to upload the bin file and upgrade the firmware version. Process End up with My Hardware version - Archer MR200 v4 00000001 current firmware version - 1.0.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190603 Rel.60023n I need to upgrade the firmware to the newest one of V4 that was Published on 2020-06-28. URL that I have downloaded the firmware - https://www.tp-link.com/in/support/download/archer-mr200/v4/#Firmware Reason for upgrading the firmware - after I changed the wifi access password and router, it will successfully change to a new one. But when I trying to reboot the router it blinks power led only. that is the issue. after I have reset the router using the reset button and router worked finely. any one can help??
  4. Hello! Since I'm in an old house with a small garage, it's the perfect place for me to put my server and self-host a bunch of stuff, however there is no such thing as an Ethernet cable down there and Unraid does not support Wi-Fi. I wondered on the internet to find out that I might use my old router (TP-LINK N600) as AP and extend the network from Wi-Fi to Ethernet, bypassing the various limitation. I then tried various guides, but my interface does not quite match the ones in the guide, and I get often stuck because when I reboot it after the changes or when I put it in AP mode, I can't access to it to see what has worked and what not (currently using Ethernet cable). My main router is a Fritz Box 7510, now onto the questions: Should I install the custom open source router systems on my TP-LINK? Does this make the process easier? Has anyone here tried to do the same thing as I'm doing? What was your experience? Here are the guides I found online: https://www.tp-link.com/ae/support/faq/718/ https://www.tp-link.com/lk/support/faq/74/
  5. I'm wondering which device TP-Link Archer AX23 or TP-Link Deco S7 (one device only) has better coverage? Does anyone has experience which of these devices has stronger signal and better signal coverage? Is better to buy mesh system instead of router (plus extender optionally at the future)? What are the benefits of mesh system? Also is big difference between wifi5 (ac) which uses Deco S7 and wifi6 (ax) which uses router? I want to has good signal across the whole house with area about 150m2. Thanks for help.
  6. Alright, so this has been happening nearly everyday for a few months now and I'm not sure how resolve it. Here's what's happening: I have Spectrum internet with the modem they gave me, that's connected to a TP-Link AC1750 router. The TP-Link has two ethernet connections, my PC and my server, then everything else is connected to it via wifi (laptops, chromecasts, smart devices, etc...). At least once a day, sometimes more, my PC loses connection and all the wifi goes out. The indicator on my Spectrum modem shows nothing is wrong, but the ethernet indicator on my router turns orange and when I go into the TP-Link web settings it says I have 'poor connection'. Here's the weird part. My server connected to the same router still gets internet and can function normally, also if I have my VPN on, on my personal PC I can still get internet. (Now that I'm typing this, I'm realizing the server always stays connected because it's always connected to a VPN). EDIT: Forgot to mention another odd thing. When I am not on a VPN and I'm watching a YouTube livestream, when the connection goes out the livestream still works (Twitch does not btw). So I am still technically receiving some sort of connection. The quick and easy way to fix the issue is to restart the modem and wait for everything to kick back on. Restarting the router does not work. I assumed this was a DNS issue and tried changing my DNS servers in the TP-Link settings but that didn't resolve it either. I also thought my PC's onboard ethernet adaptor was broken and overloading the network (I'm not even sure that's a thing) because when I would download a game and stream at the same time, this issue would come up often. So I bought a PCI-E network adaptor and I thought I had fixed it, but it's happening again. Hopefully this all makes sense, any questions please ask away. Just need some help!
  7. Hi, I am looking to install wifi in a 4 floor house which has in-house ethernet installation done all over the place. Floor plate of one floor is 2500 sq ft. I wanted to know if I can install TP-link EAP 225 ceiling access points in strategic positions on every floor such that all floors get wifi coverage. Each access point will be connected via ethernet which will be hosted on a single network. Further, I want every access point to have the same SSID and password. I wanted to know if I can seamlessly move throughout the house and get unbroken internet experience? Will the connection of my phone/laptop automatically shift to the best access point available? In other words, can a network of multiple Tp-Link EAP 225 be used as a substitute to Ubiquiti equipment? Thanks
  8. Hey everyone! Hope all is well. I'm having a lot of trouble with a TP-Link Archer T3U USB network adapter. I bought it mid-2021 and it had been great up unitl about a month ago when it all of a sudden just started dropping the WiFi connection super frequently. In fact, IT JUST DROPPED WRITING THIS I have tried a few things, such as searching for new or different drivers, uninstalling the device completely, system restarts, different USB ports etc and no luck. I'm not sure if the thing is just broken or if there's something else I'm missing e.g. my update to Windows 11... If anyone has any solutions that would be massively helpful! If not, looks like I'll just invest in a PCIe network card (unfortunately I can't go wired due to where my PC is sat in my apartment). Thanks! JWally
  9. Hello, hi and thank you for popping in. I will try to explain the structure of my home first and then the problem. January 3rd I upgraded to 5G (expected 500-600Mbps)on our home Interwebs. The unit that is now outside our house is ZTE MC7010 5G. From the 5G unit I get a cable inside the house that goes into one of my TP-LINK Deco P7-units (got 3 for meshing the 2.5floor house). From P7 I have a cable going into TP-LINK TL-SG1005P V2 in the side attic (PoE unit that powers my 2 Reolink 410's outside). From PoE I have cable running downstairs into TP-LINK TL-SG108E. From 108E I got a line going to my PC, my printer, 2x going to my NAS, living room TV PC. So I got lines trough the house and WiFi mesh for phones/tablets. But there is an clitch in the Matrix. Speedtest.net or Netflix's Fast.com I get 50Mbps:ish. Now it'll get interesting (at least for me).. Remember how I mentioned that the first step is my P7 mesh main unit? It has an app for phone. Open the Deco app on my phone > Test Internet Speed (and at the same time, running speedtest again on my PC) Speedtest.net or Netflix's Fast.com I get now 500Mbps:ish So my question is... Why do I need to tickle my P7 to get my internet speeds up to what they actually are supposed to be? Trying to figure out if it's something at my end or is this a call for my service provider to do their magic... I'm lost
  10. Hi team, I am planning to buy TP Link TL-SG2428P JetStream 28-Port Gigabit Smart Switch with 24-Port PoE+ for my home network. I need to supply power to 12 IP cameras and 2 access points using this switch. The product page says that power output of this switch is 250W. (https://www.tp-link.com/in/business-networking/omada-sdn-switch/tl-sg2428p/) Can you please help me to know if this switch is enough to supply power to 14 poe devices (please consider average power consumption for ip cameras and access points, no special high power consumption equipment will be installed). Thanks.
  11. Hi, my router, connected to ISPs modem/router combo through WAN keeps randomly (5 min to 3+ days) forgetting all the setup, and needs going to tplinkwifi.net or 192.etc, setting admin password, mode of operation, wifi password to work again for a random amount of time - sometimes I don't have time to set it up when it forgets. I already ruled out overheating, bc it never goes over 37C. TP-Link support told me to buy something new, but the router has only 2 years of use on it. Please help me.
  12. Hi there! So I recently bought a TP-Link AV1000 (PA7017P) powerline kit and it improved my network setup so I'm happy with it and its placement. Problem is that I pay for 500mbps and the speed I get out of the kit is 310mbps. If I got the better one, the AV2000 (PA9020P), would I see a speed increase? I can easily return the PA7017P so swapping it wouldn't be much of a hassle but it would be nice if someone has experience with both models could give me an answer. Network setup is: M500 broadband (Virgin Media) to PA PA to Linksys router Router to mesh wifi node (Before the powerline kit, I had to use 2 extra nodes to cover my entire house. With the PA, I get better wifi speed due to the router being in a better place)
  13. Hi everyone, I'm hoping this post will be the lucky one. I'm trying to sort out a very frustrating issue with my home networking that has put me on a path of endless frustration for the last month. It has been a rollercoaster ride of confusion and probably some tears. Maybe a lot of tears. And more swearing. So here's my current setup: Shaw (Canada) Arris XB6 Cable Modem with a hardwire connection to a TP-Link Deco M4/E4 Mesh Network (5 devices placed around the house, access point mode) and a wireless connection to a Netgear extender (more on this later) Last month when trying to get Shaw to send me the new Wifi 6 version of their modem, they required me to do a factory reset of the modem. Before this happened, while things weren't perfect I was in relative peace. Everything worked. Nothing dropped. Other than power outages I almost never lost internet connectivity. Once I did the factory reset, it set into play a domino effect that chained into devices being unable to connect to the Deco mesh network (hence why I have the Netgear extender) and hours upon hours of troubleshooting and messing with my network to try and get things back up and working. Which I didn't ever properly. I have 2 2019 iPads that cannot connect to the mesh network, a 2014 iPad that can't while other iPads, an Air 2, A 2017 Pro - connect just fine. Some Echo devices connect without issue, and some will absolutely not connect at all. Same with IOT cameras, nothing I can do will connect them to the mesh network, they will begin to connect and then die, unable to be reconnected. 2 nights ago I was trying to watch a movie on our Apple TV 4k, deeply unhappy with my networking situation, I lost internet on my cable modem. Now the setup, to be clear, is that I have a unmanaged switch plugged into the back of the modem, and into that I have a few wired devices along with my wireless mesh network (previously I had the mesh plugged into the modem, and the switch plugged into the mesh - but I thought I might be able to fix something by changing it to Shaw Modem --> Switch --> Mesh. Obviously not. Anyway, after multiple restarts, the SECOND I would try and play the movie again, it would crash the network. Pause it? Crash. Skip back 10 seconds? Crash. I SOLVED this by unplugging a few recent IOT devices (a few smart plugs and an Echo) and boom, no more connection drops. However this doesn't solve the underlying issue that I still am struggling with understanding. The first is why the hell the drops keep happening, and the second is why the hell my Deco network seems to be limiting the ability for a very select few devices to connect. I had the brilliant idea when this happened to modify my setup slightly. My goal was to change the subnet of the Shaw cable modem. Then to connect to it a Wifi 6 Router and use that to power the Mesh network, and to give some love to my gaming PC with Wifi 6, and to future proof. Upon receiving the modem which was only available online (the Netgear RAX20) I discovered haunting words on the front of the box: "Supports UP TO 20 devices". But my plan is to try and spread everything across the spectrum. I just don't know if the Netgear router will work for what I'm trying, or if ANYTHING will. I also don't fully understand networking with regards to the device limit. For example, if I'm using the Mesh network and connections are spread throughout each unit, does this no longer count towards the total devices connected? Does this in effect disperse the network? In the end, what I expect to see will be: Shaw Modem (192 subnet) --> Netgear Router (10 subnet) in DMZ to prevent double nat --> Mesh Deco and Netgear Extender On the main shaw modem, I will connect close and local IOT devices that don't use much bandwidth and are relatively nearby. The Netgear router will connect any wifi 6 devices and will connect all of the most important hardwired devices (my NAS, Apple TV and PS5) I am hoping this change will somehow unlock those other devices to work with the mesh network. I spent many hours with TP-Link support, to the point that they connected remotely to a computer on my network and ran a network monitor to see what was happening with my connection, although in the end they never could figure it out. One of the other incredibly weird issues is that I could no longer hardwire my Xbox One X to the network. At all. I could also not connect it via wifi to the mesh network, but I COULD connect it via wifi to my shaw modem directly, where it's currently sitting. I would do connection tests and while I could do an okay job downloading (about 20 mbps under what I expected) uploads stalled and didn't work. And it really seems that's what's happening to my other devices, they can START the process of downloading, but uploading always fails. And I've tested DNS settings, you name it and I've tried it. Even set the Deco units into Router mode to see if that would help, unfortunately the one thing that I can't do is turn the Shaw modem into bridged mode, as the cable boxes that are connected need the wifi radio in order to actually connect. Sorry for the long post, but I'm really at the end of my rope. I can't switch providers as in my neighborhood, Shaw is the ONLY game in town to provide service over 70mbps, and with all my devices that's far from enough.
  14. Since my apartment (about 140m² ) has lots of thick walls and several mirrors I have lots of trouble getting wifi to work well everywhere at decent speeds. So over a year ago decided to get two basic routers (besides the one my ISP already gave me, so 3 in total), and spread them across the house in order to get good wifi to all rooms. However, recently I upgraded my internet to 250 Mbps, and now I need to upgrade the 2 extra routers to gigabit ones, and I'm having trouble deciding which ones to get. Basically my main options are: - TP Link Archer C6 (https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/wifi-router/archer-c6/#specifications) - ASUS RT-AC59U (https://www.asus.com/Networking-IoT-Servers/WiFi-Routers/ASUS-WiFi-Routers/RT-AC59U/techspec/) It might seem like an overkill, to have 3 (the ISP one + 2 of my own) gigabit dual band routers at home, but my plan is to get 5 GHz wifi in every room of the apartment(2.4 just doesn't do it anymore nowadays, so I hope to disable it across all the devices), so I can actually get nice speeds wherever I am. I'm no net expert, but I do know more than your basic user, however I don't quite know how to tell the difference/which is better out of those routers. I'm basically looking to understand why one is better than the other, or why should I choose one over the other since I wanna purchase something that I won't need to upgrade for a while. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've seen from reviews online, they seem to be pretty close in performance all over, with the ASUS having a few more configuration options. I live in Brazil, so these options were the ones I managed to find at decent prices, but feel free to suggest others around this price range! Any tips/suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
  15. Hi, I have a problem with the connection between my computer and TV. I'm sending scheme of my network in the attachments. Router (of course meant Switch) = TL-8G108E 5.0 (managed router) AP/Router = TP-Link Archer C6 v2.0 TV = Samsung UE55TU8502 (all displayed connections are wired) Can you please help me resolve this problem? Thanks, Dan
  16. So I have two end of life routers the c5400 and the c2300 both no longer receive Canadian firmware updates, but do have a final us update and until I can get a newer router I would still like to have it safely updated for security what can be done with end of life routers? is it safe to update using a improper country firmware or different versions of that same router? c5400 is v1 (discontinued in 2017, end of life 2017 for v1) c2300 is v2 (discontinued in 2016, end of life 2017 for product) any help or idea greatly appreciated
  17. My router has been having this issue since the last couple months. The tp-link router would have have all lights green indicating nothing is wrong when actually I was not connected to the internet. The gpon box too lights up all green (indicator lights). I have to shut down everything for 10mins and it would work. But lately that has not been working for me. My router is properly configured and I reset and restore the CONFIG file sometimes to fix issues. Nothing works these days however. My neighbor and me are on the same network, same ISP, theirs works fine while mine doesn't at times. I am wondering if ISP employees have access to my PPOE account login credentials can they use my ID for themselves? they said it cannot happen as my ID is bound to my GPON box. But lately I think they have been bullshitting me. I don't know. What can I do at my end?
  18. Hi all, I'm in the market for a new router to replace the one my ISP send me. I was looking at the TP-Link AX50 and the Asus AX58U, both get pretty good reviews. I live in a 75m2, single floor apartment and right now the wifi is pretty bad in the bedroom mostly. Also I want to use it for in-home streaming from my PC to my Chromecast, which are in the same room but relatively far apart. The plan is to put the router as close to the middle as possible. I like the idea of AIMesh that the Asus has, but at the moment I don't have any need for a second access point since I live in an apartment and I'm probably not moving any time soon. Are there any other reasons to spend €50 more on the Asus (€149 vs €99)? Should I be looking at other routers all together? Thanks
  19. Hi guys, I have wirelles print server from a friend to deploy in my apartement, it is from TP Link, model is WPS510U. Problem is I am just not able to reset it to factory settings, I found manuals, one is telling me to turn off device, hold on reset button, turn it on and release after 7 seconds, another manual say to hold it 15 seconds. I tried 5, 10, 15, 20, whole minute, from turned off state and also when turned on, but it just do nothing. Does anybody had this issue with TP-Link devices? It is driving me mad, I am trying to restet it for last few days and nothing. Thanks for any help guys.
  20. I have a TP-Link AX11000 router. I like the parental controls, and I have my son’s laptop set to the “teen” restrictions. This blocks gambling and adult content by default. However, it also blocks his Xbox game bar which restricts a lot of his communication ability while playing certain games. I have searched forums, tech support sites, etc and I can’t find anything about the PC game bar. I find a lot about the consoles. I know it’s a simple thing, like having to ok a site, but I can’t find it.
  21. Hello, I am wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to install EAP235 Wall access points but turn the radio off and just use them for the wired connections? I have two rooms that currently have single POE jacks and love the simplicity of the EAP235 to allow for a VoIP phone and printer to be connected in each of these rooms. the building has existing Omada set up with great wifi coverage so I don’t want these to interfere. Maybe there is another product I should be looking at to accomplish this but the low cost and clean form factor of the EAP235 seems like it would be perfect if I can keep them from interfering with the existing wifi.
  22. Hi, i'm trying to use this router model (TP-LINK TL-WR702N) with my linux mint 20 (ulyana). My mint detected the router, but cannot connect to it's network, either through wired or wireless connection, it just keep failing to connect. When i test the router in windows, the PC connects normally to it. Any idea what i can do to get mint to connect to this router? Or should i just get a different router? Thanks in advance.
  23. Hello there, I've had my Dlan adapters (one TL-PA4020P ver1.1, one TL-PA4010P ver2.3) for about as long as I have my Pc, however they've been giving me trouble lately. Firstly they only ever reach max. 60 mb/s of the 500mb/s they should be capable of delivering (we have 1gb/s so they're the bottleneck eitherway), they also refuse to play ball with the official TP link software you can find online (I assume that's bc of different versions), they seem to be just unaffected by it. They also regularly loose connection for a few seconds, even after resetting them and re-pairing them multiple times, however until today they've never been offline for long enough to even start a windows-assisted diagnosis or find an error code that would help me on this quest. Now they've just ceased functioning 2 hours ago, windows tells me " Ethernet has no valid IP_configuration ", I've tried some of the tipps you find on other forums like setting IPv4 to automatically obtain the IP (which was what i had it set to initially) trying to update the network-adapter (which was up to date) or disabling fast-startup in the windows powersettings (whatever that would do for me didn't happen). I however did find out that it HAS to be either one or both of my DLan adapters or one of the Lan cables via which they're connected, bc my phone has WiFi, and my Pc once again has internet access (~500mb/s max at this moment btw) as soon as I use my 10m Lan-cable instead. I gotta be honest I'm fed up with these things and would just buy new ones if they weren't that expensive, so I'm hoping one of you geniuses is better at troubleshooting than I am. Thx in advance
  24. Hey guys, I was wondering if I should upgrade my router from a TP link Archer c4000 to a tp-link deco x. I don't get the speeds I was hoping for, I currently pay for spectrums 1GB Wi-Fi. I usually receive about 400 download and 23 upload hardwired and anywhere between 80 to 300 download and 23 upload wireless. I'm looking for a better faster Wi-Fi but also one that reaches farther in my house. Would the TP link deco be a faster Wi-Fi? I know it will be better everywhere in my house if I got the deco but I'm more concerned about the raw speed.
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