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I have a Gigabyte Vision 3080Ti that I purchased about 6 months ago from a guy that bought it during the 2020 release, he gamed on it till he upgraded to a 4090. I have noticed under heavy gaming load it gets around 81-83°C after a few hours it even spikes to 85°C.. is it time to redo the thermal paste and pads for this card? Or is this around normal temps? PS I have a 5000d Corsair airflow case. Front mounted EK Nucleus 360mm AIO with 3 addition lian li uni fans sandwiched, and 4 lian li uni’s exhausting

Hey I need some help finding out what thermal pads 3070 strix needs I got one 2nd hand and it looks like some missing i have look online but didn't find the sizes

is the a step by step tear-down an guide for replacing the thermal pads an paste for my gpus which are the XFX Speedster SWFT210 Radeon RX 6650XT CORE Gaming Graphics Card & the XFX Speedster MERC319 Radeon RX 6750XT Black Gaming Graphics Card ? i need a guild so i can upgrade both over the stock thermal pads an paste with the Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad for the gpu chip an SWECENT Thermal Pad 1.5mm 12.8 W/mK [120x20x1.5mm] for the vrams an chokes , ive seen an heard that replacing the stock thermal pads an paste with these give on avg a 10c temp drop for idle an load temps which sounds really good.

I have a Ryzen 7 5800x with a Lian Li galahad 360 AIO. My casing is a lian li 011D with a 9 fan config. I used to get idle temps of 40ish and maximum 60-65 when there's a heavy load. But after some bios update (I had to do it because my armory crate app wasnt working properly) my idle temps went up by a little bit. I didnt mind it at all since 5800x runs hot most of the time. But now it idles at 60-65 and when I stress the cpu (using cinebench) CPU goes up to 90 degrees. I thought this will get fixed by reseating the cpu with new thermal paste. So I reseated my cpu and did a stress test again. Temps only went down by 5-6 degrees. Does this mean my AIO is failing? I've heard Galahad AIOs are very fragile. If not, what can I do to make my temps go down, this is bothering me a lot. I'll attach a picture of my casing so everyone can get an idea about the airflow *all thermal readings were collected using HWinInfo > Ryzen 7 5800x >Asus Rog B550-A >Lian Li Galahad 360

Cleaning the dust out of an Xbox 360 and decided to replace the thermal paste on the CPU die and I had some Arctic Silver Céramique lying around. Application was uneventful, but then I got curious and looked up the ingredients of Céramique, and it contains zinc oxide, boron nitride, and aluminium oxide. Zinc oxide is relatively soft, but boron nitride and aluminium oxide are relatively hard and have the potential to leave scratches in the CPU die, which I don't want.

[Posted to r/tvrepair, but it's a tiny sub and I doubt I'll get much help from them- r/techsupport is locked down in protest of the whole reddit API debacle. I hope asking for TV help on the LTT forum is ok!] So it's over a decade old model (2011 release), I'm aware that TVs have a limited lifespan, but in this case I think (or hope...) it should be a relatively simple fix, but before I grab my iFixit kit and start taking things apart I want to run my potential solution ideas by you guys. Until recently it was working completely fine, being used daily, when suddenly while in use the screen went completely black, but the TV was still clearly on. After some basic troubleshooting, the issue persisted which lead me on to suspect hardware. What happens is, you turn it on and it works as expected, you can use it for maybe 20-30mins if you're lucky, then the screen goes black (no image at all, not a backlight issue). At this stage if you power off and back on, upon power on you still see the boot-up screen with the LG logo and date/time, if set. My assumption is that modern TVs function like PCs, you power on a PC and the first thing you see is your motheboard brand or American Megatrends, which is handled by the motherboard at the BIOS level (I mean it's before the OS being loaded). I suspect that it's the same with my TV, before the operating system is fully booted, the motherboard outputs a brief boot-up screen, my guess is that this image is handled by a different component than the image produced once the operating system has loaded, and it probably requires far far less power for that logo screen to be shown than it does to show any kind of image once the OS has been loaded. All of this stuff about the boot screen is just my guess, I could be totally wrong about it, but it seems logical to me at least. Now, after the logo/boot up screen is shown, it goes immediately to a black screen. The LEDs at the bottom of the TV are still on, and react to buttons being pressed on the TV. The only way at this point to have the TV work again is to power off, wait about 10 mins, and power back on for another 20 or so mins of use before the black screen again. It's been a while since I've had a go at figuring out the problem, today I felt like giving it another shot. It occured to me to feel the rear of the TV to see if it's getting hot, and indeed, a spot right in the center of the rear of the TV, approx 3x3inch, was hotter than I would ever expect a TV to get. Conveniently I had a pretty powerful portable AC right by where I had set the TV on the floor, so I set it to blizzard mode and turned it all the way up to maximum, pointed it at the back of the TV right on the hot spot, waited for the spot to feel cold to the touch, powered back on, and it has now been on for about an hour playing youtube constantly, which is the longest I've seen it stay on since this black screen issue first began. So to me that's a very clear indication that the issue is caused by thermals/overheating. So, the next logical thing my brain goes to is "oh well let's just remove the rear panel, locate the GPU and/or CPU, pull off any heatsink, and re-apply thermal compound! The 2nd next thing I think of is cooking the board, a "reflow" fix I think it's called? I've no idea if the issue is caused by loose solder contacts, but it would explain why the TV works fine for a short while before conking out, as the heat would cause thermal expansion which could cause metal contacts/solder points to swell, and the contacts to come loose. These are my two ideas, but I've never so much as seen the inside of a TV in person. I don't know if a reflow fix is even possible on a TV board because I assume the GPU is actually on the motheboard, and I assume cooking the entire motherboard wouldn't be a good idea... I'm very confident that the issue is thermal related, as for how best to fix it, well I was hoping that someone on here who has some experience working with TV components could advise me before I start unscrewing things. For all I know it's impossible to remove the heatsink from a TV GPU, I don't know if everything is soldered right onto the board or what, or hell, for all I know TV chips don't even use thermal paste?? I've really no idea at all. Worst outcome would be that the only way of fixing a thermal issue in a TV is by replacing the entire motherboard, and I doubt I could source a replacement board for a 12yr old TV... (Additional note: after an hour of having the TV on and working perfectly with the AC cooling the rear of the TV, I turned the AC off, and predictably within 15 minutes - black screen. Beyond any shadow of a doubt, this is 100% a thermal issue) Thanks in advance to anyone who read this whole post. Here's to hoping I can keep this ancient relic out of landfill for a few more years!

while i haven't been able to find a compatible full waterblock for my power color fighter 6700xt (twin fan) to bring my load temps down from a avg peak idle avg 27.5c load avg 67.7c (during the winter) in a 68deg room to avg 34.5c peak idle to avg 78.7c load (during the summer) in 72deg room with a well ventilated case 5 x 120mm noctua 3000rpm fans iv been thinking about thermal solution augments for the 6700xt such as replacing the thermal pasta with thermal pads like my cpu's [Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad] an try this on the gpu core an the ARCTIC TP-3: Premium Performance Thermal Pad on the vrms or the the arctic on both core an vrms my goal would be to at bare minimum get 8c in reduction any more like 10 - 12c an i would be even happier so id like thoughts , idea's , an advice on this an if anyone's got a step by step for this gpu's tear down so i can down it right would be much appreciated my gear loadout LITTLE YELLOW BEAST fyi if you think temps are affected negatively by this layout there actually a bit better as the old layout when the gpu was horizontal an rear aio as exhaust everything was 8c hotter at both idle an load they as cool as the are now after re-config ther no diff with 1-1/2 intake on the gpu as before but it vertical an with the rear exhaust fan freed up ther is , an the same for the cpu with front mount aio in pull config.

I just recently placed an order for the MSI GE76 Raider, and I noticed at XoticPC they have an option to get Thermal Grizzly thermal paste applied to my laptop. I have seen videos showing this kind of modification to be both risky but provide major cooling improvements. Does this still hold true for the newer laptops, or do the OEMs apply high quality thermal paste themselves now? How important is this? If it actually matters, then: I am wondering what anyone's experience is with thermal paste, is it rsky to let a 3rd party install it for me? Personally I don't trust myself to take apart a laptop to the extend needed to apply thermal paste myself, so I am fine with paying for the labor on that. Even if the custom paste is applied, is it reasonable to be worried that the laptop vibrating around a semi truck all day might cause the paste to spill out on other parts? Any information would be nice, I want to make sure my new machine gets the best cooling solution possible. Since I am waiting till April, I might as well deck it out a bit and make it really worth the wait.

Hello everyone, Recently I have started to face a very strange behavior from my CPU. My Intel 4790K shows spikes in clock speed and CPU usage every few secs. I can see that most of the background process sits at 0% usage but still my usage changes from 3-6-12-14-19 and keeps repeating this process. I observed this scenario with one 2-3tabs in Microsoft edge + task manager + HWMonitor running together. Also, I tried to do a stress test to see if my CPU cooler is doing its job or not. after 1 min the Intel extreme utility interface shows thermal throttling is YES in orange color with 98C temp in HWmonitor. I am not facing any crash issues and my CPU usage stays on average of 55-65% and temps at75C-80C while playing most of the AAA games. My ideal temps sit between 36-42C at 30C room temp. My question is should I be worried about this thermal throttle warning? My guess was that the cooler needs to be cleaned. I cleaned my cabinet, fans, and cooler, applied fresh thermal paste (came with cooler itself), installed it correctly (it's fitting correctly and tight, CPU fan is working in PWM mode and I can hear minor sound from the CPU fan when tI keep the case open during the stress test. Note - I am not overclocking My Specs - Asus Z97A Intel 4790K Zotac 2060 Super 16GB (8x8) Corsair Vengence 1600mz DDR3 Cooler Master Master Box (with 6 case fan with Push and Pull config) CPU Cooler - Antec C400 Galacial C400 Glacial (antec.com) Corsair 650watts PSU Samsung Evo SSD 250GB Transcends SSD 250 GB WD Blue 1TB What should I do in this case? Are my situation looks normal to you guys or I should take some steps to fix this? Any help will be highly appreciated. I have attached my test result image at the bottom for detailed insight. Thank You

I'm pretty happy with this chip. Good enough to play some light games with friends. I wanted to know how far I can safely push the temperature of this chip. At stock, the CPU only thermal throttled at 94C. I felt that was a little too high, so I used a third-party app called, "AMD APU Tuning Utility" to change power and thermal limits. Now, it stays at a steady ~88C. I wasn't comfortable increasing the thermal limits until I knew it was safe to do so. How far can I push this chip's temperature without sustaining long-term damage? I plan to be using this thing for at least the next 3-4 years. I only game for about an hour at a time, if that matters.

A few weeks ago, I got a new laptop to replace my old laptop (as it was riddled with physical damage), and so far, it's been a great laptop to use. Laptop is a HP Pavilion 15-eg1073cl with: -i7-1095G7 -16 of RAM at 3200mhz -intel iris xe Graphics -512 GB of SSD Memory It's pretty run of the mil specs and gets through all my daily productivity and gaming. But I'm looking to invest in maximizing the potential of the laptop in the near future, so I'd would like recommendations on who makes the best RAM, Thermal Paste (Not liquid metal), and SSDs to get the best performance for my laptop.

Ok so I bought my 2017 Mac Book Pro 13 in(Non touch bar) right when it came out. Its defiantly stating to heat up. Even just doing things like using a google chrome the fan kick's in and the keyboard is warm to the touch. I'm not sure if this is just Intel Hardware slowing down and ruining hot or if my thermal paste needs to be replaced. Its annoying because the fans are loud and destroy battery life. Also this seems to be a recent thing (like over the past year) If some one could please help that would be amazing.

Hello guys! I really need to change my laptop's thermal paste as my CPU temps are going over 95c if I don't disable turbo with throttlestop . So I open up the laptop , remove all the screws on the heatsink and fans , and when I try remove it i can't. It is hard stuck to the GPU processor. I have tried warming it up with gaming to over 80c on my gpu and immediately tried to remove it, no success , I even tried with the hairblower. I've seen people online say to twist it , I can't , it won't twist. I have been scared to try to forcibly remove it cause' it might rip off the gpu or something. Have any of you have this happen? How do I fix it? At this point I think MSI put cement instead of thermal paste on my laptop. Thanks in advance!

I have an Acer Aspire a515-51g which always turns off at around 50c on the cpu. I used to play on this laptop, do anything and never had an issue, it would run 70-80C and no issue, but one day this started happening. I've repasted, changed the heat pipe, changed the fan, updated bios, reinstalled every driver but the issue won't go away. Doesn't matter if the laptop is running the OS or is just in the Bios, if it's at base clock of 1.6ghz or with the intel turbo boost of 3.4ghz, it will always turn off at the same temperature and won't turn on for a minute (I power it on, it shuts off before the bios even shows, for about 8 times and then it will boot to the OS.). Also, there's no blue-screen, it just turns off in the blink of an eye. I've checked with a friend's thermal camera and the temperature readings are correct. I'm afraid the problem might be down to the temperature sensors acting up. If that's the issue, could I do anything to fix it or would I need a new board? Here are the specs: Acer Aspire 5 - A515-51G-56UG CPU- i5-8250u RAM- 8GB DDR4 SSD- 256GB M.2 GPU- GeForce Mx130 Motherboard- C5V01 LA-E892P Here's the logs while running intel extreme tuning utility cpu benchmark, they literally get cut mid sentence. MonitorLog2022-03-10_21-55-00-264.txt

Hello everyone so I'm running into a problem with my pc and my cpu seems like to Throttle at such low temperature.so my pc usually runs around 63 to 64 temperature and when it reaches 65 it Throttle aggressively to under 1 ghz or even 0.7 ghz sometimes . Although I checked on amd website and says temperature limit is 95 so if anyone can help me out I used arctic 5 thermal paste and cleaned the fans. And since the cpu is locked I can't do much in bios . Can someone pls help me out thanks .

I'm a controversy with my AMD fanboy cousin. He is stuck to the genre of intel processors that had thermal problems on overclocking . I am younger than him, but believe that at a point Intel had thermal problems compared to AMD sometime in the last decade?? (When Overclocking??), but I feel that those problems were accounted for in the 9th, 10th, 11th gens. Maybe before. Looking for the era that Intel had some bad thermals compared to AMD. Overclocking involved. LMK.

I did a fresh win10 install on my brother's laptop (dell w/ 7300hq/1050) and after downloading csgo and starting it, I noticed it ran fine until the cpu started throttling to 1 ghz and the game dropped to 10 fps. I monitored the temps and they are alright, power did't exceed 28w (pl1 is 45w) so it's unclear to me what caused those stutters. I'll attach a pic of the clocks during gaming. Also, on a cpu stress test it didn't do that, instead it stayed locked at 3.1 ghz. How do I stop this from happening?

I have had this laptop for 3 years now, when I game the temperature raises to 68C and throttles, decreasing my performance significantly from 950mhz to 450mhz. I have tried a lot of methods to decrease my temperature such as undervolting or changing out my thermal paste but none of them seem to make a significant difference. So I have been looking into bios modding recently to hopefully increase the temperature cap on my laptop, can someone help me or walk me through the process of removing this temperature lock on my GPU. I have also attached my bios below the thread if anyone needs it Many thanks! TD Q534UXAS203.zip

Hello, So I have a bit of a weird one... I recently received a defect EVGA 1060 6GB single fan card (06G-P4-6161-KR). The fan had died and former owner tried to fix, but no luck. I got only the PCB and mounting bracket - no cooler, aluminum heatsink or backplate. I did however have a Kraken G12 and a Corsair H55 lying around, thinking it would work out just fine (although, it looks foolish due to placement of chip as well as lenght of card). My only issue now is: how do I cool all the small components, VRM, Mosfets etc. Do I buy a set of heatsinks with adhesive? Thermal tape? I guess thermal pads wont work as I have nothing to conduct the heat. Bonus: What do I need to have cooled and what don't I need to cool? Forgive my mistakes, I am fairly new to playing around with GPU's Have an awesome day, thanks for reading :)

Hello everyone, I'm Ivan. Straight to the point: I have an Apple Mac mini mid 2011, dual-core i5, 16 GB RAM, HD graphics 3000, SSD. Room temp from 18 to 25, depending on season and weather. My Mac on boot stays at 45-50, when I open Chrome or Safari jumps at 60-70, when I open Logic Pro it goes at 80-85, sometimes at 90. What should I do? (Don't say change Mac please )

Hi I've tried searching for this topic, both on google, and YouTube (which i know can also come up as results on google). I just bought a 5950X, and I've hear some of my friends using Liquid Metal for a delid'ed intel CPU. I was wondering if I could use it between the IHS and my water-cooling block. Both are nickle coated so there should no be much erosion. However since liquid metal is, well, liquid, I'm worried that if I put it on the CPU and put my case upright like most are today, that it will eventually run out. Does anyone have any experience with this or know where to find it. i guess my google fu is not that great. Regards

Hey guys i hope youll doing pretty well! This is my first post on here, just been wondering about the Thermal Pad solution for better performance and cooling on the Macbook lineup! so i have the MBP 13, 2020 version i5 and 16gb of ram, and been wondering what size should i get to use it on my mac! talking about thikness, 0.5mm is gonna be alright? or should i go for a little bit more. Thank you guys so much and have a great day

So i opened up my rx 570 that doesn't work to see what is causing a problem I checked it and it looks really fine nothing has been touched so I don't know what to do from here. My main question is that adding new thermal paste might fix it or do I have to do something else

Hi, I recently purchased a second hand PowerColor Red Devil RX580 8GB. Upon running I noticed that the card gets really hot when running benchmarks and playing games. The temperature is around 76°C± with auto fan curve running at 90%+. And sometime 100% at 80°C. I've tried replacing the thermal paste with a Artic MX-4, no luck. Tried changing the oily thermal pads to Thermalright Odyssey thermal pads, a thickness of 0.5mm and 2.0mm, still no luck. So I thought it might the thermal was too thick since I measured it was 2.0mm uncompressed and 1.5mm compressed, however the thermal pads I have was hard and not really easy to compressed, so I changed to 1.5mm, again still no luck. This is getting frustrating as I have no idea what else to do. I have a Sapphire Nitro+ RX580 8GB. I ran the same benchmarks and games, the temperature is 70°C±, however the fan speed never exceed 50%. Please help, could it be the heatsink leaked the working liquid or something? Is that even possible? I noticed 1 outer fin from the heatsink was slightly bended, I bended it back into shape.

I have these capacitors(marked by red boxes in the picture) right next to the gpu on my asus mother board with some mystery sticky paste that was between the capacitor and the heat sink.the purpose of this sticky paste seemed to be the same that of a thermal paste on a processor.i have removed most of it by mistake and dont know what kind of paste should i put on there to replace it because it feels and looks much different than a regular thermal paste