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TLDR: Successfully applied Arctic Silver 5 and Arctic Thermal Pads to eliminate thermal throttling on MSI GS65 8RE gaming laptop. I have an MSI GS65 8RE Stealth Thin gaming laptop (i7-8750H, GTX 1060) which has suffered from thermal throttling ever since it was purchased in 2018. It's an old model and there are plenty of reviews so I won't get into any further details or comments about build quality, difficulty of upgrade and so on. Of course, if anyone reading this has any specific questions, please feel free to ask and I'll be happy to answer. To solve the thermal throttling problem, I first tried the following "non-invasive" measures with varying degrees of success but the problem was not eliminated; nor was I satisfied having paid for a moderately top-tier hardware package only to limit its capabilities in order to use it for its intended purpose. - Turning off Hyper Threading - Turning off Tubro Boost - Undervolting - Turbo Boost frequency limiting - Package power limiting During heavy gaming (I'm saying "heavy" relative to the performance capacity of this particular hardware) such as Jedi Fallen Order on "Epic" 1080p graphics settings, the CPU would hit 93C with the fans sounding like a 747 during takeoff. HWiNFO showed sustained thermal throttling with the CPU frequency hovering around 2.7Ghz whereas the i7-8750H is rated up to 4.1Ghz boost (2.2Ghz base). Cinebench R20 benchmark scores were hovering around 2250 (average of 3 consecutive runs). Obviously, I did not expect this 17.9mm-thick laptop to be equipped with a cooling solution that can handle the heat dissipation requirements of an i7-8750H processor at its specified 90W, 4.1Ghz boost power limit and frequency, respectively. I would settle for a sustained boost anywhere above 3.0Ghz at its Intel-designated TDP-down power limit of 35W, without thermal throttling being activated. I think that's a fair expectation for hardware at this price point. Having opened the laptop before for SSD and RAM upgrades, I was familiar with its internals. I had also read a lot of users complaining about thermal throttling and claiming they were able to fix it with a re-paste of the heat sink fan rig. So I took the plunge and re-pasted the HSF with Arctic MX-4 thermal compound. Ensuring proper contact upon replacement of the cooling hardware on the motherboard and taking care to not bend or twist any part of it, I closed up the laptop and booted. No improvement. I was disappointed, to say the least, and I began to regret my purchase. That was last year. Fast-forward to the present and I came across a post where a user had not only re-pasted the CPU and GPU but also replaced the thermal pads on the VRAM and other surrounding components. I decided to give it one last shot. I opened it up (this is an achievement by itself, just look up a teardown video), cleaned up the old paste, applied new paste and replaced the thermal pads. This time I used Arctic Silver 5 and Arctic Thermal Pads (1.5mm thick). I also did something that may be frowned upon: I replaced all thermal pads, regardless of stock pad thickness (which varied from 0.5mm to 1mm and 2mm in one area) with 1.5mm and a 1.5+1.5mm thermal pad sandwich for the 2mm. To make sure that the copper parts of the HSF rig were properly making contact with the CPU and GPU, I carefully placed the HSF rig back over the motherboard and held it in place without the screws. Then I meticulously squished each of the thermal pads where they were too thick, causing a gap between the other contact points. Now the HSF was sitting flat on the CPU and GPU. Next I slowly removed the HSF rig ensuring not to let the thermal pads peel off or shift. After applying the thermal compound on the CPU and GPU, I again placed the HSF rig back on and screwed it in place. I had extra thermal pad left over so I placed one on top of what looked like the PCH (maybe?), as well as beneath and above the two NVMe SSDs and on both RAM sticks. After closing up carefully ensuring all the cables and screws were securely in place, I booted up and ran Cinebench R20. To my absolute and complete delight, the core temp value reported by HWiNFO did not exceed 84C. By the way, I had a stable undervolt of -155mV already set, which obviously helped. The machine sustained a boost frequency around 3.3Ghz at 35W power limit and resulted in an average Cinebench score of 2460 over three consecutive runs. Other than undervolt and power limit, there are no other performance/heat limiting settings enabled. For good measure, I also ran Prime95 stress test and Unigine Heaven graphics benchmark to check system stability. All checked out. Temperatures did not exceed 84C. I want to clarify that this was in a non-AC room where the ambient was around 24C which is on the warm side of comfortable. Needless to say, thermal performance would be even better in a cooler environment. The Nvidia GTX 1060 hits 90C running Heaven benchmark on Extreme preset but the CPU caps out at 71C. The fans are loud, which is to be expected, but they run noticeably quieter than before. For reference, the max fan speed set in MSI Dragon Center is 65% for CPU and 75% for GPU. I hope this helps anyone else facing similar problems. And as I said earlier, if anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!
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- laptop cooling
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i bought this cooler quite a few years ago, and used the thermal compound pre applied to it. and this is what it looks like now. is this a reasonable spread? it looks like their are gaps in it which bothers me, but would that actually hurt performance? or worse cause over heating in localized areas? next time should i scrap it off and apply my own?
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I've been occasionally repasting both my personal Laptops and some devices at work. But I've always run into issues: The temps are great for the first couple days, but just a few weeks / months after repasting, the CPU is back to old temps. One year later, I even had a few devices crashing because of the CPU overheating under load. After some googling, it turns out that the regular thermal paste (Arctix MX4 / MX5) that I've been using, isn't ideal for direct die application. I suppose it doesn't as well, because of pump out. Reddit recommends to go with high viscosity thermal compound, such as Gelid GC Extreme or Honeywell PTM7950. What is generally considered the best price/performance thermal compound for laptops? And is there a difference in what I should use between repasting office and gaming laptops?
- 34 replies
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Hello everyone! I've had my MSI laptop for probably over 5 years now, and I've noticed that even after cleaning it out to make sure the ventilation is good, it's starting to run hotter in its old age. While I was considering upgrading to a laptop with a 30 series card soon, that's obviously become...difficult, so I'm thinking of trying to get my current one to last a bit longer. I'm not super sure what is causing it to get hotter though. I already undervolt it and prop it up on something when gaming for better airflow which used to keep it a decent bit below throttling temps, so I was thinking it might have something to do with the thermal compound being old? I have no idea if that's a good guess or not, but I'm also not super sure what else it could be. Thanks for any help!
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TL:DR should i use unopened RadioShack Thermal compound on a new Ryzen 5 3600? So, I'm considering building a new rig with a ryzen 5 3600 on a msi x570 so i have PCIe 4 and expandability down the road (I'm wanting a 10 year computer, not a 10 sec car). Due to the prices of these components and the fact that im a poor cheap B@$#@rd with three kids, I'm looking to cut cost wherever i can. I know TC doesn't cost that much, but Im already reusing my GTX 1050ti that was gifted to me by a friend along with my 12-year old DVI monitor. What would the almighty Linus do? Would he hang his head in shame, cower with fear at the thought of harming such equipment, or want to try it out on his own computer?
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Just got a new corsair hydro h100x but noticed the thermal past has a slight gap where it has rubbed off on the plastic cover in transit. 2 things: Will it smooth out if I just fit it as it is? Can I scrape it off the plastic and reapply it, or do I need to order new thermal paste? Thanks for any help!
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Hey, I put a post out a while back asking whether or not thermal grizzly's kryonaut is still the best thermal compound (for desktop cpus) and the answer was more or less what I expected . Although, after digging around I found quite a few reviews / posts claiming that thermal grizzly's kryonaut has scratched the ihs of peoples cpus or the bottoms of their coolers and degrades at temps above 80c, is this a common / true problem? Just in case the above is true, what would you recommend for a 5900x and nhd15? Ive heard nth2 is quite good; I do know that the difference in the top pastes are minimal but if there is one that is consistently slightly better than others id like to go with that xD. I should mention that price isnt a problem and the only caveat is that it cant be conductive Thanks for any help, Lex.
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Hi guys, just opened my i5-6200u laptop for a re-paste, and noticed that the integrated graphics heat spreader has no thermal compound, and doesn't even make contact with the copper heat pipe/heatsink. Anyone know why that is? I've applied some and sealed her up, but just wondering what you guys would have done in my position. Thanks!
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Budget (including currency): $10,000 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Minecraft Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cx6F7X (already a full list, now I'm going to individually check parts) so I'm asking about thermal compound, would using LM bother the 11900k? Or is it fine? If it's not fine what should I use instead (also do I have to delid to add LM, or do I just treat it like a normal thermal compound
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- 11900k
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does liquid metal bother the 11900k? and do you have to de-lid the 11900k to apply it? I want to get optimal performance out of my pc, but it would obviously be ideal if I could keep my warranty, or at least not risk needing to use it then risking it not being there (basically, I don't want to de-lid it) In the video about "am I a true gamer", linus put liquid metal straight on the cpu, I believe it was way too much, but is that basically all you do? put it on like thermal compound?
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Hi, I am looking for the best thermal compound that I can find for my new build with the only exception being that it is non conductive. Can anybody recommend one? I remember Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut being the best but I'm not sure if that is still the case xD Thanks for the help, Stay safe, Lex.
- 13 replies
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- thermal compound
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Budget: <$200 USD Country: United States Existing System: Alienware Aurora R11, i9-10900KF, RTX3090 FE, 32GB G.Skill 4000MHz CL14 My current system runs a bit hot as you can guess with the current specs in a pre-built Alienware. The CPU with AIO thermal throttles in Cinebench R23 within about 1 minute. I've been watching fan upgrade videos for this exact chassis which include fitting in additional fans not already present. I'd replace all existing fans as well as add a second fan to the CPU AIO radiator to give it a push pull configuration. So I have a pretty good feel for the process and I'll make sure to redo the CPU thermal compound. People online seem to correct all thermal throttles with this solution (without aggressive overclock). I would like to point out that the 3090 doesn't thermal throttle at all in 3DMark Time Spy Extreme. The CPU just smacks the 100C almost instantly it seems. Question 1: I'd like to use the best fans possible in place of the existing fans and in the new positions. In my research I feel like this fan might be the best fan for the job in terms of cooling performance and generally quiet operation (while at 2000rpm and lower). Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM. Generally I'd try to run below 2000rpm but I'd have the capability of running up to 3000rpm during benchmarks etc. The $27 cost per fan seems fine with the low quantity I can fit in my case. Is there a better performing/cooling fan for the job? Question 2: I'm definitely replacing the factory thermal compound. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme seems to be about the best compound out there. I'm okay with the $19 price tag on Amazon. Is there a better option? Thanks for your advice!
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Summary A study from ComputerBase community member “AssassinWarlord” has been conducted with very unusual products. “AssassinWarlord” tested an assortment of daily used products; from hand cream to potatoes, to even ketchup and cheese slices. They were tested as heat conducting materials on a Radeon R7 240 GPU. Ketchup: Cheese: Potato: Quotes My thoughts This is a funny test, and definitely something I would expect LTT to do. It's not the first time obscure materials have been used as thermal compound. People in the past have tried many different things as TIM alternatives, such as mayonnaise. Even Tom's Hardware at one point used denture adhesive. I recommend checking out the source, as there are more pictures and if you have no problem reading German there's also a graph that I didn't post. Sources https://www.computerbase.de/forum/threads/waermeleitpasten-und-pad-test-auch-mit-kaese-kartoffel-ketchup.2124066/ https://videocardz.com/newz/ketchup-is-better-gpu-thermal-compound-than-toothpaste-study-shows
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Some minutes ago, I decided to turn the direction of my CPU-cooler, so I screwed the four screws out of my motherboard aaaand: nothing! The Cooler didn't come off. So I tried with a little bit of force and Wuuuups, CPU and cooler combined. I really like AMD but this method of locking down the CPU is not quite that good.
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I've noticed boutique builders like Origin PC, Digital Storm, and even Sager (are they technically considered a boutique builder?) offer optional premium thermal compound on their laptops for the CPU and/or GPU for about $35 each. Is this a gimmick? It feels like a gimmick. (Keep in mind I'm also a video editor, so my CPU temps go bonkersville on a regular basis.)
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I am planning a build for this summer and I will be using the Corsair h100i v2 AIO cooler. It has pre-applied thermal paste, and I am wondering if that will suffice. Is it worth spending the extra few minutes to clean off the pre-applied stuff and spend the extra few dollars for thermal paste or will the stuff that it has pre-applied work alright?
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Hey all, I've had my Corsair H80i GT in my system for about a year now, but I'm starting to see a noticeable rise in temperatures, both on the CPU and in the coolant. I was getting a warning in Corsair's software because my coolant was reaching 50 degrees Celsius and my processor idles around 50 but I've never seen it pass 60. I'm using an i7 6700K at stock speeds in a Fractal Design Nano S. I have 2 140mm GP-14s on the front of the case and rad has 2 GP-12s that are 120mm. The whole setup is in push-push config. I'll admit, I haven't changed the thermal paste in a year (major procrastinator), but I just wanted to make sure everything was okay, lol. Thanks a bunch for any help.
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Thermal compound is essential to good cooling - But what's the best way to REMOVE it? Buy Arctic Silver ArctiClean on Amazon: http://geni.us/LYEN8C Buy IC Diamond on Amazon: http://geni.us/mwA70 Buy Arctic MX-4 on Amazon: http://geni.us/HOQ8o Buy Arctic Silver ArctiClean on Newegg: http://geni.us/dlwR3 Buy IC Diamond on Newegg: http://geni.us/F64d Buy Arctic MX-4 on Newegg: http://geni.us/pGFDYR
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Well, I used CLU on one of my copper heatsink, but I didn't notice any significant performance increase (I didn't delid), and I became paranoid of all the issues people were talking about CLU, like wearing out, and leaking onto the mother board, so I decided to remove it and use some ordinary thermal paste instead. However, that stuff just doesn't come off! That liquid metal stains copper, and no matter what I throw at it, alcohol, WD-40, or TIM cleaner bought from the store, it just stays there untouched. I did some research and see that people are literally sanding the heatsink in order to remove it entirely... I would rather not to do so because I think that would cause more problems than it solves. So here's my question, would that liquid metal stain affect cooling performance? The surface is still perfectly even (at least for my hand), just not like copper anymore, like silver-grey color. Should I lap it? Please share your experience here... Thanks.
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Hi all, I have questions about notebooks with integrated heatsink to the GPU and CPU. The GPU thermal pad ripped off and still attached to GPU, I know i have to replace it but can i use thermal paste + thermal pad like a sandwich and hopefully get better thermals than just with the pad? I've been looking for this online all night, could not find a single thing. Has anyone tried this? If so whats the temps like as opposed to just the thermal pad. Thanks Note: Everyone keeps asking if they can use thermal paste than pad which i know cannot be done because there's too much of a gap for paste to fill.
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Hello guys and gals, So I bought an oem dell pc and added a used Gigabyte GTX 750 ti 2XOC. The card is a few years old now and I was wondering if I should replace the original thermal compound or would it not be worth the risk of opening up my product? I do overclock it to 1500Mhz and it generally runs around 50- 62 c depending on how graphically demanding the game is. Ideas, thoughts comments are welcome!
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I just finished replacing the thermal Compound on my cpu and put the good old cooler back on it. When I turn on my pc the keyboard and mouse, gpu, and internals light up and start running. But there is no feed to my screen or sort of posting. Anyone know whats happening?
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