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Showing results for tags 'tempered glass'.
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The case is the O11 Dynamic Evo A guy placed a wooden object (it hasn't been treated with sandpaper so it's sharp) on the front panel, but the plastic cover was still on, yet if I remove it and try to just rub it away like it's dirt it stays there. It was on the white part of the panel but I'm pretty sure it's glass too. The scratch is definitely smaller than 1 cm. Is there a way to get rid of this or at least make it invisible? To make it more clear where it is I made a red circle about where the scratch is. Preferably cheap methods because I broke the bank buying this case.
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Hi, I'm starting to get a bit paranoid about my pc case. I'm gonna build my first pc this weekend, and I chose to get a pc case with a tempered glass pannel. But I saw a loooot of posts about the danger of tiled floor + tempered glass and of course my room has a tiled floor. It is dangerous when the two collide, but is it dangerous even if the pc case is just put on the floor ? Should I put something like a piece of wood under the pc case to prevent a glass pannel explosion due to vibrations, or can I just let it on the floor ? The question may seems dumb but I'm really getting nervous, so thank you by advance for the answers !
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Like the title suggests, I am currently rocking a vertically mounted 3080 Ti inside of an NR200p. At stock, underload, if recorded the GPU temps to be as high as 85+ degrees. After fiddling with he fan curve a bit (shown in attached image), I was able to get the load temps down between 75-80 degrees under load (depending on the game/benchmark) all be it with some significant fan noise. I know the 30-series cards are know to run HOT, but I feel that there is no reason foe it to be THAT hot. I currently have an MSI MAG 240 AIO on the bottom of the case as intake (don't worry, the pump is built into the rad), and 2 top fans working as exhaust. do you think rearranging the top fans to be intake will help with GPU thermals as to get some fresh are in the mix? or am I over reacting, and the temps aren't THAT bed? Full disclosure: I am currently rocking the TG side panel rn and I KINDA want to keep it that way....but if there temps need addressing, I can't do such with my current configuration, I will just mount the GPU horizontally and mount the rad on the vented side panel as a last resort. I know that set up has been proved to be the superior in terms of airflow and performance, but its not as pretty to look at HAHA.
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Hey All, I am trying to collect data for myself and i tried searching for it everywhere on internet but i haven't succeeded yet. The thing is i wanted to collect is the thickness of the tempered glass of PC cases mentioned below. I am trying to build a PC and haven't been able to decide yet. Can anyone help?? Please Cases: 1) Phanteks P400s 2) MasterBox Q300L 3) Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic 4) Corsair Obsidian Series 1000D 5) Cougar MX 330-G 6) InWin 301 7) Thermaltake View 71 8) Fractal Design Define 7 9) Corsair Carbide 275R 10) Thermaltake Core P3 11) Corsair Crystal Series 570X RGB 12) Cougar Conquer ATX 13) NZXT H700
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I cannot find a modern case I like enough to use over my ft-02. Silverstone sells an upgrade module for the front I/O, but they don't have a tempered glass side panel to replace the incredibly dated plexiglass widow panel. The case is quite long 600+mm. The side panel is probably just a few mm shorter than the entire case length. It's also squat. Total height of less than 500mm. The side panel is probably a good 80 to 100mm shorter than that. Any good ideas on how to make this awesome case tempered glass awsome?
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I'm looking to buy a case, and I would prefer the regular tempered glass side panel version, but the tinted tempered glass side panel version is currently on sale for $70 cheaper. Is tint on most cases noticeably dark? If I have a large amount of RGB components in my system, will I still be able to see my internals, or is the tint so dark that I would be better off paying the extra $70 for the regular glass version? I haven't really seen any online comparisons for tinted vs non tinted versions of cases, so I'm not sure how severe the tint is. Any info would help, thanks.
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Context: I am upgrading a PC that doesn't need water cooling (R7 2700) to a custom loop to improve the aesthetics of my IT Class' showcase PC for open houses. I really do love the class and what more people to experience it. Because all the supplies were purchased from the school's Newegg Business account, and working with the school when we just closed down till New Years is near impossible. Anyway, all the parts are ordered (the CPU block, corsair lighting node pro, and fans are stuck in shipping) and are set in stone. No returns and no purchasing more parts. Here is what I am using: Ryzen 7 2700 MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X (vertically mounted for looks) Thermaltake View 71 (black case w/ black tinted tempered glass on 4 sides: top, front, left, and right) A thermaltake modular PSU (I really need to find a way to get Molex for the pump, the remaining modular cables are gone and the molex cable from a EVGA 550 G2 don't fit) A 360mm (65mm thick) rad from thermaltake 6x titanium 10/13mm compression fittings from Thermaltake Some all white soft tubing from Primochill (sealed, open box) 3x Corsari LL120 RGB fans (in shipping) Corsair Hydro X block (I don't have the receipt of which exact one but it is prob their most common standalone block) Corsair Hydro X XD5 (D5 Pump+reservoir) and I think that is it. Anyway when I realized the school ordered white tubing instead of clear or translucent red like I asked, I was a little upset because I was concerned with how the tubing would look like behind very tinted tempered glass in a black case. Luckily, there is already a picture of the white version of the View 71 (a water cooling case) w/ white hard tubing, and that at least told me how it could look behind tempered glass (the glass IRL is much more tinted than the pictures on their website, especially the snow version: I already have the rad temporarily mounted to the top with the incorrect screws on the top (in/out on the right hand side), and I can easily move it. But I really can't move the pump except for up and down. I really really can't be bothered to move the pump and reservoir anymore, I have cut myself twice on the case and spent two hours moving drives cages and mounting the pump, and I can't do that anymore since I am limited to building the PC during school hours (2.5 hours for 2 or 3 days a week). The hard drive cage is installed in the bottom right attached to the back (is that still called the mobo tray?) with a pre-installed thermaltake 120 fan that I have already moved to inside the case (instead of the front panel) to actually make the dust filter work. The pump is attached to a fan mount right above the cage. There is about 2-3 inches of vertical distance and about 1 inch of horizontal distance between the rad's outlet compression fitting and the inlet fitting at the top of the reservoir. I need to fit another tube in there and because the tubing is still sealed I don't know how flexible the tubing is, much less how to actually install tubing in such a tight space. Anyway here is my main question: Is there any good (and easy to a novice) way to make all white tubing look good in a very black case with some RGB elements? Reminder that the GPU is vertically mounted and the pump isn't moving, but the rad can. Also: Is there a proper orientation to mount a rad to the top? Like am I supposed to attach the fittings to where the plastic caps are or the metal caps on the opposite side? Looks of the rad don't matter since you can't read the (currently upside down with the metal caps facing into the case) Thermaltake logo behind the large "overbite" on the top of the case. (this overbite is where the top screw to secure the swinging tempered glass door attaches)
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I'm new to this forum. I'm working on a PC build using a Lian Li O11 Dynamic Razer Edition I purchased from eBay. The vendor didn't know how to pack it well and when the case arrived the side tempered glass panel was shattered. I already contacted the vendor and a full refund is in the process. The vendor doesn't want the case back because they would be responsible for return shipping which is about $85 from my location to theirs so they're letting me keep it. Only the side panel was shattered but the front panel is intact. The only other damage was to the base which is made of plastic and only the bottom right rear corner was broken off. I think I can repair this which rapid bonding epoxy or super glue. This will be my first build in over 15 years. Does anyone have recommendations as to replacing the side tempered glass panel? I already contacted Lian Li and am waiting for their reply to see if they sell the base and the tempered glass panel. What could be other options? Acrylic, fiberglass? All recommendations are welcome and thanks!
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- lian li o11 dynamic
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Hello, which type of front panel do you think works best for airflow? Doesn't need RGB, just good airflow. I've seen mesh panels, tempered glass and some flat fronts. I assume mesh panel works best since it doesn't obstruct airflow much but I'd like to know your opinions. I'd appreciate if you could explain your choice a bit, too. Thanks in advance.
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Hello, Im looking for a pc case that costs a max of $150AUD that has tempered glass, is under 45cm tall and supports micro atx. Im going for a black white and blue case as my rig is called igloo. It also has to be able to easily send tube out of the case as my liquid cooling is external. Thank you -Coop
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Hi: forgive me for I have sinned.....it's been 4 years since my last System build... I am looking to take it up a notch and water cool the new GPU and CPU of this new build. Can you recommend a case? here is what I would like : 1- 240/240mm or 240/120mm room for GPU /CPU radiator 2-Tempered glass and RGB - because of course there is never enough RGB LEDS 3- Would like to place it on top of my desk so inverted mobo option? 4- I don't want a Case that rivals my Washer/dryer combo in size and weight! 5- forget budget for the moment ! Thanks all for the assistance ! -Wey
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Hi, searching for anybody with enthoo evolv TG cases with watercooling. Wondering how it would look like and as reference (hard line or soft tubing). Thanks!
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Hi, im wondering about which case to buy and was looking at the bitfenix aurora. I was just wondering if anyone has bought this case to be able to give a non biased review as it seems quite cheap and i dont want to buy anything that im gunna have to change in a few months. I would also like to know about how reflective the glass is to and if adding sufficent LED's inside will make my components visible on the outside
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Hello browsers of the internet: I have a normal version of the S340, and I decided it was time to get myself a custom side panel with tempered glass instead of the horrible acrylic the case comes with. Here is how I did it and the end result. The mod still has a lot of room for improvement, but I'm fairly happy with the results. Materials used: -Tempered glass with a medium tint film, 43 x 44.5cm --> 150 mxn (8 USD from my local glass workshop) -Aluminum flat profile 38x3mm, 4m long --> 160 mxn (8.50 USD from my local metal workshop) -Aluminum L profile 12x12mm, 5m long, 1mm thick --> 100mxn (5.30 USD) -Aluminum C profile 0.9x0.9mm, 5m long, 1mm thick --> 120mxn (6.40 USD) -Small tube of resistol 5000 (high strength contact glue) --> 60mxn (3.20 USD) -Small tube of sealing silicone --> 80mxn (4.25 USD) Grand total: 35.65 USD + a bunch of unused aluminum and adhesives Tools: -Metal hacksaw with handle -A couple of vise grips -Spatula (to spread the adhesives) -Metal files -4mm drill bit and drill Build Process: This build is very simple and can be completed in a couple of hours. The only lengthy bit, is waiting for the adhesives to fully cure in order to proceed. First off, cut the flat aluminum profile into 2 lengths of 43cm and 2 more lengths of 37cm. These 4 bits will make the frame to which the glass panel will be attached. Next up, cut 30cm of the C shaped profile, this will handle most of the weight of the side panel so that it can rest on the bottom of the case structure. Finally, cut the L- shaped profile to get a length of 44.5cm. This one will be attached to the back of the panel and will hold everything in place with thumbscrews. I recommend you approximate the distances with a couple of mm to spare and then file the pieces down to the correct lengths. Its easier to remove material than to add it! With all of the cutting done, attach all of the flat profiles to the glass panel using the sealing silicone. first, clean both the glass and the aluminum, then apply a seam of silicone to the aluminum and spread it with the spatula. Finally place the aluminum on the glass. Rinse and repeat for all 4 pieces and use small clamps to hold them in place for 24 hours. Next up, focus on the bottom part of the panel and make a mark 9mm over the lower edge. Attach the C shaped profile on this mark using the contact adhesive. Make sure you read and follow the instructions for your adhesive, since this bond will be supporting most of the weight of the structure. Let it cure for as long as needed. Grab the L profile and make 2 holes 44mm from the edges. Attach this piece to the back of the side panel and let the glue cure. Congrats! the build is done! Let me know what you think (aside from wonky) and please share any improvements you come up with. Thanks for reading!
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Im in the process of building a new computer and am stuck on which case to buy. I have had my heart set on the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG but recent research leads me to believe this case can run hot.? I will be air cooling this system as water cooling just makes me uncomfortable. A close runner up for me is the Corsair 570x, which looks like it has a lot more air flow and still great looking. Any experience with the Phanteks case being air cooled? With the small slits on top and front (mostly the top seems to be where the problem is) it appears this case may have issues exhausting the hot air. Any fans that might perform better than the Phanteks ones it comes with? and/or fan configuration? I really am anxious to start my build but need this problem solved, as all I have been doing is theory crafting and reading a million reviews on both cases. The Phanteks has amazing reviews but most everyone is water cooling their build. Would love feedback on an air cooled system. Also, thoughts on the Corsair 570x case? Seems like it is a very open case, in fact possibly too much for proper front air intake to rear/top exhaust. Potential issues I see is dust accumulation...and its not my first choice.. but at the end of the day I would rather have my system running cool. all and any feedback greatly appreciated. HELP ME system is i7 7700k & gtx 1070,
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Any opinions on the new h500p and the new cosmos? Hoping the H500P will be at least under £150
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Hi. Just a really quick question; Any chance I can fit the NZXT S340 Elite's tempered glass side panel onto the Fractal Design Define C or Define Mini C? I'm looking to maybe replace both side panels by switching them. Any help is appreciated. Cheers!
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Title says it all.
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Hello everybody. I'm a big fan of Fractal Design's cases, mainly because of their Scandinavian-style design and their cable management, but there's one problem; none of their cases currently feature tempered glass. This is a big bummer for me as I'd really love having a tempered glass case to show off my build. I know there are ways to mod the case and add tempered glass, but it seems like a whole lot of work with a lot of chances for error. The Fractal Design Define Mini C is pretty much perfect for me, other than it not having a TG side panel, which begs the question; when will Fractal Design, practically the only case manufacturer who hasn't started making TG cases, jump on the bandwagon as well? And is there any other very similar option out there for me that does feature TG and is Micro ATX? This is meant to be more of a discussion thread, so any input is appreciated. Cheers!
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Hey guys, I have a question regarding the fans that come with the Phateks Evolv ATX Glass case. I just received it and am waiting to transfer my parts from my define R5. So I read some people say that they had ventilation issues with this case. I am considering ordering some be quiet silent wings 3 fans. Specifically, 3 120mm pwm fans for the front, 2 140mm pwm for the top, and one for the rear exhaust. I am also cooling with the be quiet dark rock 3 for my CPU cooler for my 6700k. So I have 2 questions ... How is the air flow with the pre-installed fans ? And the 2nd is ... how loud are the current fans ? Also any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
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So, I want to buy a phanteks Enthoo Evolve ATX Tempered glass edition. I want to have a kraken x61 cooler on the top . So the problem is that the case does not accept 3x140mm fans in front for intake, it only allows 3x120mm or 2x 140mm. So if I place 2x140mm fans as intake and the karken x61 as exhaust on top and one more exhaust fan in the back it will create negative air flow. So should I choose 2x140mm fans or 3x120mm for front intake??
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Hey guys, Zen here again, just wondering if this case by Aerocool is good at all? No reviews found, but videos of it's unboxing and review do exist, I just need all the help I can get so I know whether it's a good deal or not seeing as how it's worth $169 AUD ($129.16 USD) compared to the H440 at $199 AUD ($152.08 USD). http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/rvZ2FT/aerocool-p7-c1-white-atx-mid-tower-case-p7-c1-white https://www.mwave.com.au/product/aerocool-p7c1-atx-windowed-mid-tower-case-white-ab87690#detailTabs=tabOverview I've provided two links, one for the pcpartpicker version and one from a computer store here, Mwave, a very trustworthy store, but I don't know if the product is though... I'm thinking of downgrading from a White/Black NZXT H440 to this case but don't know if that's a good choice, any suggestions? My build is a white and black theme btw. Here is the link to my build should you need it - http://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/3R9xgL Thanks for all your help, Much appreciated, Zen.
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Looking to upgrade from my Phanteks P400 since I find its front panel airflow a little too restricted for my taste. Thought about getting a case with tempered glass too. I've done a fair bit of research on these cases, especially the Evolv ATX, but I would still like to hear from anyone with firsthand experience. The price of the Evolv is probably the highest I'm willing to spend for a case.
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the look of the H440 has grown out on me, There isnt really a case out there that i like. So im just gonna mod my H440, There are just a few things im unsure of 1. What size of wrap do i need? This is the color i want to use http://www.metrorestyling.com/Avery-Dennison-Conform-Chrome-Vinyl-Film-p/cwsf100196s-s.htm 2. Any H440 Tempered Glass tutorials anywhere? 3. Is there a cable where i can convert 1 USB 3.0 Motherboard Socket into 2 USB 3.0 Motherboard Sockets