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Hey, i have an old work station and was wanting to put in an arc a750 card, my case fits the size of the gpu, the psu is rated high enough, its all good except i have a 8 pin and a 6 pin power connector. Will the extra two pins actually matter and can i get away with using the 6 pin or will i have to buy an adapter.
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Hi all, I recently made a permanent Minecraft server using old PC parts. Everything works great, except the GPU fan is driving me insane. It's a ATI FirePro V4800 1 GB and the fan sounds like a jackhammer. I can hear it across the room through closed doors. I'm sure there are ways to deal with this that are more hands on but I'm looking for brevity here. I taped it down and left it overnight and HWINFO reported the temps never went over 49c. The case is fairly well ventilated. I'm most likely not going to use or touch this outside of the server so the GPU should pretty much never be under load. My anxiety got the better of me and I'm wondering if there's the possibility of serious failure if the fan is left taped down.
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Developers will have games run on both the PC and Switch. My Pixel 7 Pro is more powerful than the Switch but does not get those same games! That makes me so freaking angry! Like I cannot contain it anymore! I am done with smartphones entirely! Developers won't port to them? Well then, no more upgrading to powerful phones! I am downgrading my Pixel 7 Pro to an HTC ONE X. It being 32-bit-only means that there is an actual technical reason as to why it cannot run those games. No more bashing my head against the wall waiting for developers to support Android officially. No more bashing my head against the wall waiting for Yuzu to better support Mali GPUs. I will just use an HTC ONE X for most normal smartphone stuff, with the very best I can expect out of it being Dreamcast games. One way I shown I was already giving up on Android devices was trying to find a used gaming laptop and a cellular module. Unfortunately, the cellular modules are too hard to find or are too expensive.
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Okay, I've heard rumors about these monitors having bad QC, but this one I've had for about a year and it's been just great! I transplanted my monitor from it's factory stand to a fancy monitor arm. After taking off the stand, placing the monitor lightly on my bed, then slotting it on to my arm, it now no longer powers on. No status LED, no screen activity. Nothing. The troubleshooting steps that I've taken so far: I've switched what port of the UPS it's plugged in to. Switched the power cable. Held the power button for an inordinate amount of time. Unplugged all the other cables except the power cable, in hopes that one of them had shorted out and the monitor was in some kind of safety mode. I know that the cable is making contact and that something is happening inside the monitor, with just the monitor plugged in, my UPS reports a 3w power draw, with the monitor unplugged, no power draw. When I plug in to the back of the monitor, I can hear arcing between the contacts, I've never noticed that before, then again, I haven't unplugged this monitor much. I have all night and any help would be appreciated. I really love this monitor and if it's kaput, I don't think I can go back.
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Anyone else has this problem that when AirPods connect to my windows pc, the Bluetooth doesn't work 10/10, instead, it connects and sounds ok but at the second it starts crackling and sounding awful. I want to fix this so bad but I have seen lots of tutorials and still can't fix it. Somehow it sounds like the connection isn't strong enough, but my Bluetooth from the pc works great with all other devices, and my AirPods sound great while connected to my phone and being 20 meters away, so it doesn't make sense. It must be some sort of configuration or something related to that, if anyone knows how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated. Some bluetooth expert, please help me fix this
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Hey, thank you for reading my post and trying to help because I'm becoming more and more desperate, Please , if there is someone who can help me, I'm literally willing to pay him. It's a semi-complicated issue but I'll try to make it as short and coherent as possible. I'm having an ongoing pc crashing problem for almost 10 months. Brief history of what I did and what happened before: I upgraded my PC, basically fully except GPU and PSU and everything worked well for like 4 months. After that period, my PC started crashing randomly, sometimes it ran for couple of days, other times even weeks before it crashing again, Sometimes just turning on and off power button on the power extension socket was enough, other times I had to re-plug my GPU before it started working again. All temperatures were ok, so it wasn't overheating. Knowing that I thought GPU might be the issue so I borrowed a new one, rx 590 and the same thing happened. It crashed after couple of days again, However that crash was different, I heard loud fan spinning on gpu, it ramped up to 100% before crashing. So I was convinced now that the old PSU must be the issue, because after that I had an accident where I saw literall smoke coming off from my pc case. I inspected everything, even PSU but nothing seemed to be damaged, I was even able to start the pc again after an hour or so. Anyway I bought new PSU, my old was corsair CX600 80+ bronze and I replaced it with Corsair TX750M 80+ Gold. Unfortunatelly that did not help it and I experienced another crash. But this time, probably because this new PSU is built different, having an additional failsafe mechanism or something in that nature, I wasn't able to start the computer again... well at least not normally. I had to use my old PSU to "kickstart" my PC so it would work again. I assume old PSU did not have that safe mechanism and that was the reason I was able to start my pc normally. Somehow after "kickstarting" pc with my old PSU, I was able to reconnect my new PSU again and for some wierd reason, it worked normally. I googled and asked around and I was told that I need to test different power extension socket and plug it to a different socket. That miraculously fixed it... so I thought... Today, after 4 months I experienced another crash. Pc won't boot and I will have to "kickstart" it with old PSU again it seems. Should I call an electrician or where do you think the issue may be?
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Hey So I just built a new pc and I’m not getting any display on my monitor. It’s not my first time building I have built 1/2 before. All fans light up, Cpu fan works, GPU fans work and light up and the Few leds on the motherboard light up. Everything working as normal except for no display. HDMI is in the graphics card Cpu power is in,GPU power is in, RAM is in correct place, and the few cables such as the (Power switch,HDD Led cables ect) are in their correct place. The only thing I can think of is I shorted out the motherboard. I tried powering on the pc without motherboard standoffs and that prevented it from Turing on but when I installed them everything working fine. Any advice is appreciated
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Hi. I was cleaning my r5 3600 with b450 motherboard to change thermal paste. i did not remove the cpu out of thw mobo to avoid damaging it or bending the pins and what not so i wiped alchohol immediately on top of my cpu. And did not notice that alchohol went in the sockets. Place thermal paste and installed heatsink then i did the same on my gpu. Assembled my right back up and it wont turn on. Removed everything including cpu and i saw dark spots on my cpu and my cpu socket was wet. Did i break both cpu and motherboard?? When i removw cpu still wont boot fans wont turn.
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Hey guys, I have a laptop (Dell Latitude E7240) it has a weird patch on its screen, I usually keep my laptop in my bag but one day I just opened my laptop and saw this weird patch on it, It doesn't affect my touch screen or anything , what is it and how can I fix it?
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I got this problem with my gtx 675m that for some reason i cant change its clock speed nor will it change it automaticaly its just stuck at 50mhz even when gaming so i literally cant play anything if someone knows how to fix help please.
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Hi! So I have been having insanely poor performance in a lot of games lately, Mostly Heroes of the storm where i am getting about 10fps or below just on start up. I contacted support for a bunch of different game companies and finally someone from blizzard was able to show me that my CPU was running at 0.700mhz when my cpu is 3.2ghz. I was told that it could be a setting in my bios or something that is making it run at this much lower speed. I have been poking around and cant seem to find anything that relates to this and i am just wondering if anyone would be able to help point me in the right direction or know what this is usually labeled as because i cant find anything. Any help is much appreciated. I have Intel i5-4460 3.2ghzWindows 10 64 bitXFX Radeon r9 280x8gb ddr3 corsair vengeance pro blackGigabyte GA-H81M-S2PV motherboardCooler Master GX II 650W
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Hey everyone. I'm trying to resolve a problem which is causing my screens to blink on and off but the monitors never turn off. This appears to happen randomly, it can be once an hour or I can get it happening lots in the space of 10 minutes then it will be fine for an hour. What generally happens is a quick blink of a black screen off then back on again. If I'm working on a remote server however I get what's happening on the video below: So far I've tried: Making sure the plugs are in correctly Going to down to 2 and 1 screens Checking for updated drivers I have a GTX 1070 I76700K z170X-UD3 Any ideas?
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i want to work on a chat system in a an android app and i wanted to know how whatsapp and related apps work... Does whatsapp create a new activity for every new chat conversation or does it use anything else ? Please do let me know. Thanks in advance.
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Hi, so let I sketch the situation right now: I currently have an outdated pc (MOBO: Gigabyte G1. Sniper B6, CPU: Intel I5-4570, RAM: 2x8GB DDR3) and my brother with a more 'recent' pc wants to upgrade (MOBO: GigaByte GA-H170-HD3, CPU: Intel 7-6700, RAM: 2x8GB DDR4 2033 MHz) to an MSI B450 Tomahawk, Ryzen 7 2600X and HyperX 2x8gb DDR4 ram 3333Mhz, so I decided to put his parts (the old Intel stuff), that will give me a little boost (don't need much more right now because not a lot of time for gaming) in my pc. But I have some questions: For myself, I bought an M.2 drive so I need to switch my main SSD in my build right now to clone it to the M.2 drive, any idea how or with what software? For myself, I will have a total of 3 SSD's (1 M.2 and 2 regulars, the one in my pc right now and a newer one from my old laptop that died recently) and 1 HDD, what is the best way to connect them? Do I need to buy an extra cable or something because I need a total of 3 SATA ports? What about Windows? Will it not freak out about the hardware changes for both of us? How should I handle this? Will there be any conflicts with any software on the installed drives if I switch hardware like programs (example games or Word as an example) or data, not a reaction or not found anymore? It is my first time I will actually work on a pc myself, any tips someone can give me for this project? Anything is welcome!
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Hi... How's life? So here's the problem. I have a Smart TV with a cable connection and it hs two kinds of channels on its menu. ATV and DTV channels. The ATV channels are all open but the DTV ones have a key displayed on their sides and are all locked. The DTV ones had gotten unlocked a few days ago after another person in at my house said that she simply did autotune, but they all got locked again by themselves automatically after a day or two. And the autotune can't seem to get them back again. Any ideas???? Looking forward to all kind responses. Thank you.
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Hello everyone, I begin a project to make a distro plate to fit in my case (NZXT H700). For that I search a plan or another thing with all dimension of the case (screw center distance, screw thread diameter, and other) but I don't find this information. Anyone have an idea where I can find this ? C0D33X,
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Hi All, So I am wanting to build my first PC. To be clear I have had loads of PC's in the past , all pre-built and essentially ready to go. I am an XBox gamer and not really into the whole PC gaming thing. What I need is a PC that is future proof, and can have components either swapped out due to a fault or to upgrade in the futrue. I need a system that I can do programming with as well as general web surfing. I do a lot of Auto Cad 3D design and photo editing. At the minuet I am running a Raspberry Pi 4B, which is a great little unit, but as it is light weight I need something with a full set up so I do not get restricted on full programs. In advance THANK YOU!.
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Friends , recently I upgraded my 2nd generation Having Ddr2 Intel Core 2 Duo E7500 computer after 9 years of restless usage. I updated that system all myself hardware and software's. Running on 4gb Ram With 1gb graphic card. I'm a fashion designer and I did my graphic's based Software's and I'm a hardcore gamer also.Windos 7 , Corel Draw 6v , Adobe Photoshop , Farcry 1-2-3 , Crysis , Call of duty Most of the series notable Modern Warfare 1-2-3 ,Black Ops 1-2 , Fallout 1-2-3 , Prototype , Need for Speed- till Most Wanted , Dirt 1-2-3 , FIFA till 2010 . I used the computer maximum till the last month . Due to Bios Failure I have to stop using and Build a New Machine. So As a Proud Intel user and Looking Up it's Life expectancy, I again choosed to Build a Intel Platform.Below I'm giving the system details which I build. * Gigabyte B360M D3H. * Intel Coffee Lake I3 8100. * 8 GB Kingston Fury 2400. * Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 550 4GB GDDR5. * Crosair 550W. * 1TB Thoshiba HHD * Circle Gaming Cabinet. My Problems, After assemble Components except Graphic Card. I installed Windows 7 In the system.I used a USB Keyboard and a Generic Mouseport Bases Mouse also In the Bios to Perform to start the Windows Installation. In the End of the Installation For Choosing Computer Name, whenever I used to input the Name by using Keyboard System Hangs Even Mouse Pointer also so after restarting the system I put the Computer Name using Onscreen Keyboard. After finishing the Windows Installation , when I tried to install the Motherboard Softwares a message says , platform not supported. So tried installing though Manually also I failed.So again I decided to check my Keyboard by Using the Calculator in windows Again My Windows Hanged. Please Friends, Can give me some solution to skip this problems. Or I Have to Change My Operating System to skip this Problem?
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hello everyone, iam wondering what is the difference between Cisco IT essentials and CompuTIA A+ ? i mean which on is better and i also heard that Cisco IT essentials is basically CompuTIA A+. so what do you guys think ? Thank you all
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https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=28458732 This is the PC i've currently picked out for a friend so far... His main goal for this pc is to run ARK: Survival Evolved shown here: http://store.steampowered.com/app/346110/ , however i am concerned as he does do editing in adobe premiere. so i've attempted to incorporate the intel processor suite but it led me to a rabbit hole where the CPU was expensive, the motherboards only supported DDR4 memory which both those motherboards and ram are still spendy at this time. He was ok spending this much on the PC....as i think his budget caps off at 700 US dollars ....he doesn't need a monitor and keyboard atm as we're just worrying about the tower.... but otherwise what do you guys think?
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You guys are my last hope for a potential fix, or explanation. For several months, I have struggled with poor performance in some of my games on my personal PC build. I have spent hours upon HOURS trying to fix it myself but without much luck, only clues. The games in question are: - Wolfenstein: The New Order - Star Wars Battlefront - Source Engine powered games from Valve - Sonic Adventure 2 (Steam) PC specs: Windows 10 64-BIT CPU: i7 4790K GPU: MSi GTX 780 TI (3 GB VRAM) MSi Z97 Gaming Motherboard 8 GB DDR3 RAM 850W PSU 500 GB SSD 2 TB HDD Additional: ASUS VG248QE monitor, connected with a DVI cable (144 hz, 1 m/s response time) Wolfenstein: The New Order runs like utter garbage, even if I turn the GFX down to high or even medium, as well as turning a lot of the effects down to the lowest possible setting. The game runs between 45 FPS and 58 FPS, and the Bethesda inbtro logo runs at 20 FPS or lower. If I do not tweak the game through the nVidia control panel, it is near unplayable. In Star Wars Battlefront, I get "artifacts" I believe it is called, in the character customization menu before a match starts. Green, red and yellow artifacts surround my characters face, when they are not wearing helmets or head gear. They pop up like small triangles around the face in a few split seconds, and then they fastly return, constantly. I have even been able to see it once mid-match. The chat window is also stuck after one single message has been typed. It simply won't go away until the entire match is over. I get stutter in Valve games if they are installed on my HDD, but they run fine on the SSD drive, why is that? I found out that some HDD might be slow and could affect the performance when the games are installed on it, but I am not certain. Sonic Adventure 2 has a bug where the entire screen freezes, turns black, and returns 10 - 20 seconds later. The music and sounds are still playing though, and I have asked SEGA for help multiple times, but they cannot replicate the issue, but they did manage to spot an error in a GPU code dump I sent them. I still have these code dumps if you want to check them out. I bought and build this PC, because I knew I would get better performance than a console, I knew it would be my own machine etc... and I have tested these games on some of my friends PC's and they have weaker PC's than me, yet I am the one stuck with all the problems. I am simply tired of the battle, and tired of continuing this fight I can not win. So I beg this forum, please.. can anyone help me?
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Hello. I'm currently dual booting Windows 10 and Windows 7 - or, well, that was the plan. Basically, I had a previous build of Windows 10 on a separate partition from my Windows 7 installation and everything was chugging along smoothly. The build was acting a bit sluggish, so I decided to nuke the whole thing and install the latest build from an ISO. In order to remove the previous build, I followed the following instructions and either because they were wrong, the software was bonky or I simply made a mistake (the most likely), I deleted Windows 7 from my boot order and now I only get Windows 10 Technical Preview in my boot menu: The Windows 7 installation is still intact. I just need to know how to add it back... Thanks.
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So It's like the Title says, system gets postcode AF when I try to turn it on, if I recall correctly this is for a "boot load error" or some jazz like that. Any idea what could cause this? I tried disconnecting everything RAM cables GPU etc. and reconnecting, that evidently did not work.
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help! i just booted up my pretty new pc and it just showed me a blue screen telling me to repair it! (i will add a picture) i have NO idea how to fix these kinds of things and i know i will need to send it back to the manufacturer if i don't fix it myself, and i really don't want to send it away, anyone know how to fix this error? my pc did NOT include the Windows 8 installation disc.