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Budget (including currency): Over £2,000 Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: 1080 gaming/maybe 1440p in future, streaming/recording (maybe) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): First Off … Hi everyone! Hope your all doing Good and Keeping well enough. Hoping I've put this in the right area, never know with different/new forums. So first off I need people to understand that I am Physically Disabled and I am not able to build a Computer, so i have to rely on only companies that custom build, which have limited chooses in components, and I can't/would not be able to maintain a water cooled system, bad enough cleaning one as it. Anyway with that said I have just brought myself a New gaming PC from a UK company called PCspecialist My current gaming build is CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7GHz 12 Core CPU – 4.8GHz Turbo Motherboard: X570 Aorus Elite Graphics Card: NVidia GeForce RTX 3070 8GB GDDR6 GPU Memory: 32GB CORSAIR VENGEANCE LPX 3600MHz (2x16GB) Primary Storage Drive: 1 TB M.2 drive CPU Cooling: Be Quiet! DARK ROCK Slim CPU Cooler PSU: Corsair RM850 850W 80 Plus Gold Full Modular PSU I have just brought I new computer which is: Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D Eight Core CPU (4.2GHz-5.0GHz/104MB w/3D V-CACHE/AM5) Motherboard GIGABYTE X670 AORUS ELITE AX 32GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR5 6000MHz (2 x 16GB) Graphics Card 12GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 4070 SUPER - HDMI, DP, LHR 1st M.2 SSD Drive 2TB SAMSUNG 990 PRO M.2, PCIe 4.0 NVMe (up to 7450MB/R, 6900MB/W) Power Supply CORSAIR 750W RMe SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET Processor Cooling DeepCool AK620 ZERO DARK I am Happy with the what i have done, with some buying nerv's as it goes but kind of what to know what people in general think to the Upgrade.... Good/Bad please explain why and what you would have done diff. Oh and I am truly hoping when the 50 NVidia series comes out (next year??) I'll be able to upgrade the GPU with this new system... just have to save those penny's again.
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Hi, I use all AMD machine: cpu Ryzen 7 7800X3D with MSI Radeon rx 7900xt running on win11. Fairly new pc, having It for more that 4 months (Build It myself, but now I'm starting to regret It). Today top 20% of my screen flickers (or maybe gets displaced) at random intervals and system during that sometimes gets a hiccup. On a first glance It looks like driver issue or something with a hardware, but I reinstalled the lower version of the adrenaline driver (From 23.12.1 to 23.11.1)and saw that the flicker happend on that update once as well so I'm worried. What else do You suggest, please help. I was saving for that machine for a long time, don't want to lose It :I
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Recently I posted on this forum for the first time. I needed help choosing a GPU to upgrade my PC with. The good news is that I got myself a 6700 XT with a great deal and I'm absolutely loving it so far, playing Hogwarts Legacy 1080p at ultra settings. (Upgraded from a GTX 1060 6GB) I'm starting to look for a CPU upgrade because, as discussed in my GPU upgrade thread, the 6700 XT is getting bottlenecked in more CPU-demanding scenes. Hogwarts Legacy is running at 56 fps average, but still. I see that there is more potential and with new and more demanding games coming on my Steam wishlist, I’m realizing that a CPU upgrade is in order in a few months. I purchased the 6700 XT full well knowing it will bottleneck. It went on sale and I got it for the price of a 6650 XT/6700-nonXT. Budget: 400-450€? As little as possible, but still decent hardware. Country: Estonia (Europe) Monitor: 4K 55'' TV. I’m mostly playing at 1080p, but for games that I can run at 1440p I will run at 1440p like Uncharted. Games: Cyberpunk 2077, Hogwarts Legacy, The Last of Us, Uncharted, (The Witcher 3), Starfield. Goal: Play these games with high – very high settings @ 60fps. Current build: CPU: Intel i5-7600 (non-K) GPU: AMD RX 6700 XT MoBo: MSI H270 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC RAM: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4 32GB 2400 (4x8GB) PSU: Corsair CX650M Storage: Samsung 500GB SATA SSD + 2TB HDD Cooler: Be quiet! Pure Rock BK009 Case: NZXT S340 Elite Requirements for new build: Won’t bottleneck my RX 6700 XT. Other: I’d like to change as few components as possible, if possible. But what kind of bottleneck will 2400-speed RAM be on a newer platform? Or is the PSU getting to an age that for safety, I should upgrade that as well? It’s been in my system since 2017. I don’t have different mounting hardware for the cooler so that has to be replaced. I’ve looked at upgrading to a 7700k, but I can’t find any in my local marketplaces. New ones are still listed for 300+€ new… I don’t know where to begin with looking up current-gen hardware and what is good and what is not. Gen 4 PCIe and resizable bar and so on… I'm not loyal to any brand. I’m hoping to get multiple possible paths forward. I want to thank everyone who had the time to read all this and has decided to give me some advice! It means a lot!
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My computer used to boot up fine until yesterday when I tried plugging in a usb-c port from the back. The machine cut off all power before returning to a shutdown state. Now when I power on the computer it won't boot immediately and my keyboard doesn't relay inputs on the logo screen. I'm stuck on the post screen before bios I and have to wait until I reach bios passively to regain control. Once I exit bios I boot to windows normally. I've also noted that my DrDebug LED doesn't move from the green light to the white light and stays at green until I reach bios. I'm not sure what's going on but I was hoping this wasn't a permanent issue but it seems like it is. What happened and how could this be resolved? I'm currently running Windows 11 Pro x64 BIOS version for my motherboard ASUS ROG B-550 F version x2604 CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X GPU: Nvidia RTX 3060 Ti FE MB: ASUS ROG B-550 F M.2 SSD: WD BLACK 500GB
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So you're curious and want to make your own Windows 9.5? Cool. Huge disclaimer: It worked for us, might not work for you, that kind of thing. If that's still cool with you, let's begin! o Start from a fresh install of Windows 10 o Make sure it's fully updated o Disable telemetry - - It’s not like Microsoft would be interested in what we’ll be up to here § Change privacy settings in Windows’ Settings app § Disable telemetry in the registry § Open a command prompt as Administrator, then type: · sc diagtrack start= disabled o The space after start= is a must · sc stop diagtrack o Services changes - Hold the Windows key and press R, then type services.msc and choose OK. § Background Intelligent Transfer Serivce – Automatic (Delayed Start) -> Manual § Connected User Experiences and Telemetry – Automatic -> Disabled § Diagnostic Policy Service – Automatic -> Manual § Internet Connection Sharing (ICS) – Manual (Triggered) -> Disabled § Windows Biometric Service – Automatic -> Manual § WLAN Autoconfig – Automatic -> Manual o Download and install the following: § Aeroglass 1.5.2 - http://www.glass8.eu/download § Win7 Taskbar Reflection - http://www.classicshell.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=6089&hilit=windows+7+taskbar+texture&start=50#p27834 - Save the "Win7 Taskbar Reflection for opacity 40 qty .png" attachment § Win7 Start Button - http://www.classicshell.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=3207#p15050 - Save the "Windows 7.png" attachment § ClassicShell - http://www.classicshell.net/downloads/ - Once installed, navigate to the following menus and make changes as necessary: · Skin: WIN7LIKE · Start Button o Replace Start Button o Button Image: Choose file - Windows 7.png o Button size: Change to 24, 32, 48, 64, etc as needed based on resolution / scaling · Taskbar o Taskbar Look: Glass o Taskbar Opacity: 40 o Taskbar Texture: Choose file - Win7 Taskbar Reflection for opacity 40 qty .png · Menu Look o Glass Opacity: 10 § 7+ Taskbar Tweaker - http://rammichael.com/7-taskbar-tweaker · Right-click the tray icon, click advanced options, change show_desktop_button_size to 12 · Right-click taskbar, Cortana -> Hidden, uncheck Show Task View Button on the same menu § OldNewExplorer - http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/oldnewexplorer.html · Choose "Use command bar instead of Ribbon", then install § UxStyle - https://github.com/riverar/uxstyle/releases § Aero 7 theme - http://sagorpirbd.deviantart.com/art/Aero-7-Themes-for-Win10-Final-523979941 · The "Clear" version of this theme was used for our video. · Navigate to "Theme\Themes For 10 Build 14393 Anniversary Update" and copy everything in that folder to C:\Windows\Resources\Themes o Registry tweaks: § Hold the Windows key and hit R, then type regedit and choose OK § Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\DWM · Right-click -> New -> DWORD: ColorizationGlassReflectionIntensity – Double-click and set to decimal 100 · Right-click -> New -> DWORD: ColorizationColorBalance – Double-click and set to decimal 100 · Right-click -> New -> DWORD: ColorizationColorBalanceInactive – Double-click and set to decimal 25 · Right-click -> New -> DWORD: GlassOpacity – Double-click and set to decimal 20 · Right-click -> New -> DWORD: RoundRectRadius – Double-click and set to decimal 12 o More aggressive tweaks, if desired: § Copy taskmgr.exe and msconfig.exe from a Windows 7 install, name them something like tm.exe and msconfig1.exe and place them in Windows\System32 § Replace Task Manager with the copied version in the registry § Follow the same procedure with msconfig § Disable the People, Calendar, and Mail storage services (will disable these apps) and tile updates · CDPUserSvc_7e8fc5, Contact Data_7e8fc5, Sync Host_7e8fc5, Tile Data Model Server, User Data Access_7e8fc5, User Data Storage_7e8fc5 § Uninstall every UWP app except for Store (so you can get them again as needed later) § Disable Cortana § Turn on verbose login/shutdown messages if that’s your bag And that's it! If all went well, you're now looking at Windows 9.5 - Windows 10 with a Windows 7 skin and disabled telemetry.
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Having an issue right now in which randomly I was using my laptop and I realised Spotify wasn't opening. I had other applications open at this point and they were working fine. I did a restart and then once I did I am unable to open most applications (Steam, Discord, Spotify), they do not even appear in task manager. While troubleshooting I realised my GeForce experience wont open and gives the error code 0x0003. I tried reinstalling Geforce experience but the uninstaller crashes, I have tried restarting the NVIDIA services to no avail. This issue started around when I either downloaded the new version of unity or downloading Surfshark. I did a system restore and it said that it failed and could be due to my antivirus (Which in this case would be Malwarebytes). I have done a system file check for corrupted files and nothing, I have done a virus scan on both Malwarebytes and Windows Defender. I have disabled all start up apps and also reinstalled Armory Crate. Another weird not is that when the problem started initially Discord uninstalled itself, and I am unable to download it again as the installer won't even run (even in administrator). I believed this could have been an issue with app permissions after the error code from GeForce Experience but I tried methods for that and nothing has changed. Hope someone can help thanks. Zephyrus G15 RTX 3060 Laptop GPU AMD Ryzen 9 5900HS with Radeon Graphics 1TB SSD
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So im looking at building my own offline security camera system using POE, and having it feed to a computer from switch to pc directly, and using a program to stream and record all the foods from the IPCameras, im wanting to have upwards of maybe 12? cameras, what kind of system would i need for something like this?
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I read about the recent Galaxy's System Files article, and I wanted to find the reason behind this chaos. I imported all partition information onto my PC and did some calculation. Since I'm no expert at this, some of info may not be correct or represent all devices. My Conclusion in short: As many of you guys have expected/guessed, it's just the storage size unit difference thing. Android (and its root Linux) calculates storage and files in binary(MiB, GiB) but consumers are used to decimal units(MB, GB), so Samsung just decided to calculated in binary then add dummy numbers to hide the difference. I mean if they didn't do that, customers would be angry about smaller storage and complain about it wouldn't they? Even if Samsung and their engineers try their best to explain it, they won't be able to convince them. On my calculation, the whole System Partition"S" are total 10.94GB. This includes system image itself, modem, hw specific libraries, carrier/country specific apps/configs, hw configs etc. Also, I think there are more hidden partitions for KNOX, other more secure things or critical system files. (This sum of partition sizes didn't add up to exactly 256GB. It's missing 2.43GB, but I bet Samsung cheaped out on that. I think it's hidden by KNOX or something.) Here is the list: - System Partitions: 10.94GB - Missing Bytes: 2.43GB - Unit Difference: 17.41 > Total System Files: 30.79GB (Including missing bytes) > Reported System Files: 34.46GB Now you may say that there's still 3.57GB left. I think this one's reserved for system caches and safe buffer. My guess is that Samsung wanted to leave some headrooms so that even if the customer fills up the storage to 100% device can still function, alerting user to delete some files, not locking itself up. OR, it's just cache/tmp files or combination of two. This theory is also somewhat backed up with the fact that actuall /data's usage is 4.74GB bigger than the Samsung's reported used space. Also, Samsung's Reported System Files size changes from time to time. Not because I updated the system. I left the device, calculating this storage thing, but it decided to change the size by itself. If the System partiton ONLY contains the Read-Only ROM, there's no reason for the value to be changed. (Fun fact: /system is ext4 RO, which means read-only. Other system partitions are the same too.) This backs the "Cache/Buffer" theory. I haven't tested this by filling up my device literally 100%, so this is just an assumption. Yes, raw system partitions are 10.94GB (not including those hidden, missing partitions) ARE HUGE for mobile OS. Just like Linus mensioned on WAN show, pixel devices takes up only about 6gigs and even has dual OS partition to seamless update/fallback OS. But on the other side, modern windows takes up about 16-20 gig on fresh install (depending on drivers) and skyrockets if you install pdf viewer, office, etc. I think that applies to macOS too. (Let's not talk about linux. They vary greatly. Though, I think I remember fresh ubuntu being under 10gig. don't quote me on that) Samsung's OS is full of features. Samsung even supports literally 'modding' your device to your likings with Good-Lock app. (Go try it on the Galaxy Store if you haven't. You have been wasting your Galaxy if you didn't use it.) They support Smart-Things or Find your device without installing a seperate app. Whether you like it or not, they have Bixby and Bixby routines included with your phone. You can't find these features on any other phones. At least not with this level of customization, build quality, and features. There's no denying on that Samsung has a lot of bloat preinstalled and the fact that system image is HUGE. But In my opinion, this is justifiable. It just needs a little bit of diet. Here is my spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14AlFARcdSbKqaMk8-ntRDCRTq8h7_6HH/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=100210223171289014815&rtpof=true&sd=true Do note that my calculations are based on Korean varient of S21 (SM-G991N) Note: 'changes eveytime' is not actually true. It actually changes 'time to time' but still I saw it change without any reasons. (no reboot, no update etc.)
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From the album: ugh...
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Currently I have a W.D 2TB partitioned into 1TB + 1TB. If I were to migrate my drive from System A to System B, which will have fresh install of OS, not cloned from System A. Will I lose that partitioned ? Or it would still work as like it was on System A ? Also I was wondering, if I have games installed onto the drive and I didn't uninstall them first and I just rip the drive from System A and put into System B. Will it like mess up my STEAM on System A ? Will I still be able to just remove the game from the list ? What about the registry etc should I worry about those. I'm kind a OCD with my PC I don't like leaving these " residual " on my PC. I mean sometimes I would literally go through all my folder and files and delete empty folders etc. Like say I've already uninstalled this game / program but it still leaves am empty folder there, I would delete it manually... I want my PC to be " clean "
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If i enter in cs after some time my screen turn off but pc still run BUT if i enter in warzone i can play hours without that problem
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Hi Peoples - I am turning over to you for some guidance. The rig boots normally without the GPU plugged into the PSU. However, when I plug the GPU into the PSU, the rig starts up briefly, everything lights up accordingly and seems to be trying to boot, but then about 3 seconds in the rig resets. I hear a little blip and it continuously tries to boot up with no avail. I noted that on the EZ Debugger LED, the CPU light turns on briefly on start up. About 1 second in, the VGA LED stays lit, then the power cycle process starts over and over. I've tested 6 different 3070s with same result. I've gone through and removed everything and it comes down to each gpu tripping something. Any insights would be greatly appreciated! Rig has the following specs: -msi z390-a pro MOBO -i5 9700 -16gb ram - corsair samsung 250 ssd 4 120 mm fans EVGA 1600 Gold+ PSU Asus Geforce rtx 3070 (will eventually connect 6 total)
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Hi, i have a problem , when i restart or shut down my pc it always show this i don't know what is this and why it appears. Anybody knows how to fix it win10 pro here is an image
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Before I start, My pc will boot up fine and run games with no problem. It's not running that's the issue, the issue is when I get up from my chair or if I walk past the machine it reboots on it's own. It doesn't do it when I'm just sitting down and playing games, but as soon as I get up and walk past "boom" restarts. I've tried just about everything to resolve it. Does anyone have and ideas?
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- system
- power supply
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Hello, I'm not entirely sure if LTT is a create place to get any input on this, but my work is in need of a new phone line for our new website. We are thinking of potentially getting an automatic phone system to route calls/take messages to our senior inspectors or whoever might be needed. Does anyone have any experience with particular services or recommendations? Thanks!
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- ivr
- auto attendant
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https://imgur.com/a/IgJrqGW Basically i did a fresh install of windows 10, and system seems to be using alot of resources. Hinting that it may be a Ram issue? Ive got 4x4gb corsair dominator 3200mhz currently running at default 2133mhz. What can I do to fix this? Windows mem tester says everything is Ok. I reinstalled my gpu drivers also.
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- ntoskrnl.exe
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Hi, I'm not so much having trouble but was just wondering instead. I plan to get a new PC as my current one was a old prebuilt that i upgraded over the past 4/5 years? My plan was to just get a whole new system from a system builder and just move my drives including windows over to the new system and just boot it normally as i am lazy to re-install all my programs, will there be any implications in doing so or am i just overthinking it. Vice Versa for the drive in the new system, can i just move it over to the old machine and boot it normally? Current system: i7-4790 Asus M52AD motherboard (Prebuilt came with this) Generic 16GB 1600Mhz Ram EVGA GTX 1070 120GB & 500GB SSD 1TB HDD New System: Intel CORE I5 11400F Asus Dual RTX 3060 Ti OC 8GB Asus Prime H510M-A/Wifi Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 DRAM 3600Mhz C18 Memory Kit 2x8GB (16GB) - Black (I'm aware the 11400f is 3200Mhz rated but this is just what they had in stock) Teamgroup Elite X2 500GB 2.5" Drive SilverStone ET650-HG 80+ Gold, Semi-Modular (650W) Tecware Forge M Omni ARGB (TG) (Black) Windows 10 Home (unactivated) ID-Cooling SE-224-XT-Black (3Y)
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Specs: Ryzen 5 1600 MSI GTX1050ti 16gb (8x2) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 Gigabyte AB350 Gaming 3 MoBo BIOS F42d I recently noticed that I was getting worse performance in games, when I tried to locate the issue in Task Manager I found out that only 8 gigs of RAM is available to the system and the other 8 appears as hardware reserved. This wasn't the case a couple of weeks ago. I have tried all the solutions I found online, changing the clearmemoryonboot registry to 1, unchecking checkboxes in advanced boot options in msconfig, physically reseating RAM trying one stick at a time, one slot at a time. All 4 slots are working with 1 stick in, same for the other stick of memory. I am not sure what I can do, BIOS shows 16 gigs, I dont have an iGPU so that's not taking up my RAM either. I have physcially tried to clean the memory sticks and slots as well just to make sure that the contacts aren't dirty. I have done everything including updating the BIOS to the latest one. the only thing thats left to do is to reinstall windows and that's something I wish it doesnt come down to. Any help is appreciated. Edit: Apparently for some reason, one channel of memory is acting weird, either a CPU or more likely a motherboard issue, whenever I populate channel A with one stick, and nothing in Channel B it works, but as soon as I add the other stick to Channel B, it shows up as hardware reserved. If I add both sticks to Channel A on the other hand, I get No POST. So, I found out that putting my RAM in slots B1 and B2 works for me, I get all 16gb RAM as detected and not reserved in windows.
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Greetings! I am in need of dire help. Most of Windows Tools I cannot access because of this error! CV650 RX 580 16 GB RAM 1 TB HDD Intel Core i7-7700
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- help
- blue screen
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My monitor is 1080p so I dont stream stuff in 4k, and any streaming activity of that scale would show up in msedge.exe, that's the only browser I use. My current internet is very cheap for me, 60-70 MBps Unlimited D/U, so this amount of internet usage won't cost me anything extra, but I really dont think I should ignore a random process vaguely named "System" using 500+ GBs of data without knowing why. I don't host anything like a server, I don't seed any torrents, I download windows updates but they alone shouldn't reach this insane amount of Data usage. as you can see here, there's no strange download/upload activity related to delivery optimization. Soooo I need help identifying this "System" process and shut it down.
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- bandwidth limit
- ethernet
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First computer that i personaly bought had 4GB of ram back in 2013, after some time i upgraded to 8GB, than bought pc with 8GB, than ubgraded it to 16GB and now to 32GB of ram. But trough all that time i alwause get the feling that ram usage is somehow rising suddenly, like if you have 8GB of ram its enough for couple of years and that suddenly its not enough, so i was wondering can it be related to some microsoft update that suddenly makes windows use more ram or something like that..? Does anyone else have the same felling...?