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Hello! I'm looking for recommendations for an unmanaged network switch for my specifications and usage case. I'm looking for one to take my one ethernet port/cable from my wall and split it to my PC and a raspberry pi. I'm looking for one that wont affect my ethernet speeds to my main PC (other than affecting it by the amount the raspberry pi is using, which wont be much at all). I'd greatly perfer one that is silent. I'm very sensitive to noise. My PC uses a 2.5GB connection so the switch will need to support that. Other than that, I'm just looking for a cheap but relatively quality unmanaged switch with 3-4 ports (any extra are nice but not worth spending more for to me). So in summary: 2.5GB Speeds input and bandwidth (To not bottleneck my connection to my PC) Unmanaged switch. (I dont need a managed one. If it is managed for the literal same price, then sure I guess) Fanless & Silent 3-4 Ports As cheap as reasonably possible without comprimising on quality or reputation Any recommendations/pointers is very appreciated! I've done some looking and research but as I've never bought networking hardware of this type before, I'd appreciate the opinion of others.

I heard about the refreshed Xbox Series X on GameLinked as thats where I get all of my gaming news. lol But as you can deduce from the title, I'm a bit disappointed that it's digital only. I understand that discs for modern consoles act simply as glorified download codes, but like I want my wall of plastic cases! XD So I was pondering if this is actually a bad thing though. There is the concern of ownership for certain, but like maybe this isn't a bad thing? Steamdeck is digital only and the PC space has effectively been digital only for years now. Has the time come? Am I old now? Is it just an old woman yelling at the sun when I say I want and will continue for as long as possible to purchase physical media regardless? lol Though I was curious as to people's thoughts on the subject manner. Do you think this is a good thing or a bad thing? Also is Riley really that white? Him and I might have something in common after all! XD

Hey, I’m currently studying at uni and I’m home only during the weekend. Therefore I turn off my pc and. I do it with the backswitch from the psu. Yesterday I accidently switched it slowly, (it took mby ~2 seconds) instead of swift click. And I heard little noise. From what I’ve browsed I know it was a small short and this switch is not supposed do be clicked slowly. I will keep it in mind for the future. But I wanted to ask is there anything to be worried about this? PC seems to be working totally fine and my PSU is 4years old BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850w. Would love to hear some opinions since I have OCD and it’s another concern for me.

I recently moved into a new apartment, bought new WiFi 7 2.5 GbE routers and the set-up is a bit different. As a result, I can't use Storage Plug & Connect on my QNAP NAS for permanent drive mapping. I've attached a diagram of my network with as much information as possible. I understand the issue is caused by the order of my network: internet > switch > NAS & routers & laptop (wireless) I'm trying to figure out which is the best option to resolve the above issue. move the Router from the living room into the networking closet This is probably the easiest to do but would negatively impact coverage (all walls are concrete). Use one of the Huawei wifi6 routers I'm not using from my last place - free I don't know if this would cause issues due to different brands. Would it work well if I disabled wifi? Buy another TP-link router I could buy either a cheaper WiFi7 or WiFi6 router for TP-link and disable wifi - around $40 CAD I could buy the more expensive WiFi7 BE6500 - $100 CAD some other switch I don't know about I'm looking up SOH, Omada, ethernet switch The less I need to configure in the router the better as it's all in Chinese.

2024 will mark 7 years since since the Nintendo Switch was released. With the long length of this time period (not to mention the leaks of a new console), do you think we'll see anything from Nintendo about a new console in 2024?

live in a apt with so many wifi signals want to hook up several devices fast as posible. the isp is 1000.0 Mbps dn / 100.0 up that frequently gose beond ratings. sadly only location mom can be wired is well in another room. so wanting to run a switch with cat8 csables since it is being rebuilt to double the downloads over times. the test that just ran is getin 117% of plan speeds curently. dont ke gona have to run a 50+ foot cable so no tripping hazzards. only has to go over 1 door atleast. below are devices plan to conect directly to switch. want to keep a price of 50 or less if possible, but still like reliability. TY in advance and really appreciate the advice. 1. Gaming PC 2. PlayStation 5 3. Xbox One S 4. 4K HDR10+ Smart TV that Doubles as Monitor 5. Apple TV 4K HDR 6. Dish Network Hopper 3 7. Denon Atmos Receiver 8.

If you dim domestic lights using a standard dimmer switch, do you actually consume less electricity?

Ran into a snag when setting up my home network. Thought I could extend my network coverage by setting up two access points on the RAX50 router (using 2 RAX35s). Was able to set up one of the RAX35s but when setting up the second one it would always fail. I was told by support that the RAX50 can only handle 1 WAP when it’s connected directly into it. If I use a small managed switch as a “middle man” between the RAX 50/ and the RaX 35s will I be able to set up the network as I was originally planning to? I ordered this managed switch to accomplish this NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS105Ev2) - Managed, Desktop or Wall Mount, and Limited Lifetime Protection https://a.co/d/5PsefJw My question is will this work or will I run into the same issue as before?

Background: I'd like to share a workspace and my existing peripherals for gaming and work. Ideally I'd like to plug in one cable into the work-laptop and start working. Setup/Idea: I tried to illustrate my situation and a possible solution in the attached image. My display and my GPU don't have a USB-C connector. Question(s): Would this KVM switch from i-tec work? Is there a (better) solution for my setup f.e. with a hub?

Hey guys. I have an Odyssey G8 I use for gaming. I have recently got a triple screen dedicated setup for my sim racing setup and tried to do a 1.4DP Bi directional switch to go from desktop to sim rig. In theory this should work fine but for some reason I can’t get the switches to work with my G8 without causing unbearable flickering and black screens. I’ve tried two different switches, the shortest 16K DP cables (1.5ft and 1.5 for the G8) and can’t get it to work right. The other monitors are Acer 32” 2K. The Acer works just fine when I switch power to it. The switch is rated for 8K at 60Hz or 4K at 120Hz. Is there something maybe i haven’t tried that would work? I’ve tried lowering refresh rate to 120 on display settings. Thanks for your time.

Hi, everyone. I'm attempting (keyword attempting) to set up a home office/gaming setup type deal. The router I have has exactly ONE outgoing port, so I bought an Ethernet switch and hooked everything up. One PC? Wired connection works great, just fine. Other? Nada. Nothing. It feels like EVERYTHING has been exhausted trying to get this to work, and I have exacerbated the Ethernet switch's own basic and escalated customer service and troubleshooting, Windows customer service, my ISP's customer service, and even a close work friend who has been working in IT for almost a decade. None of them can figure it out. This has been an issue for over a week. I got so sick of this I drew a GRAPH in frustration to illustrate what it is I am trying to do. See "hELPME.png" below. Here is a comprehensive list of everything I have done to try to fix the issue: - Check and re-check my cables aren't damaged ( they are brand new, bought less than 2 weeks ago ) - Plugged said cables into different Ethernet ports on ALL devices. - Verified aforementioned cables work on different devices. They do. - Ran the whole "ipconfig - release - /flushdns" shtick. Twice. - Hard reset my entire network, starting at the modem and router by physically unplugging them and plugging them back in, device by device. - Physically cleaned all ports of any dust. - Updated and re-downloaded Ethernet and wi-fi drivers. I'm seriously at my wits end. I -need- this setup to work for my upcoming job or I'm gonna have to rescind my offer letter, my job requires a hardline connection. I will be actively monitoring replies and replying quickly, thank you to anyone who looks at this in advance.

bit of a story here so buckle up. I moved into a home is Salt Lake that was remodeled in the early 2000s as far as I know and the contractor made some interesting decisions when it came to networking. it appears that the walls have cat 5 run in them (a few low voltage boxes that i checked have cat 5 in them) as well as coax. When i went to get the internet set up the only place that the modem/router worked was a single coax port in the basement, not ideal in a three story home. so i went looking for a mesh or some other system to bring better internet upstairs, and especially to my office so i can connect my computer directly rather than use the WIFI. i found a wall plate in the office that had a phone socket and a coax socket and when i pulled it out to see what was wired in there the phone line was wired with cat 5. i used a Lan explorer handheld tester thing on the line to see if was good and turns out that the line was open and not completed. did some exploring and in the furnace room in the basement i found a rats nest of cat 5 cables (see attached pic) tied to a j box. this room is pretty far away from the modem/router but still in the basement. A few assumptions: 1. As far as i know i cant move the modem/router from the room that its in. 2. all the cat 5 in the walls terminates in that rats nest in the furnace room 3. all the data and phone jacks (except the one that the modem/router is plugged into) in the house are open and not terminated anywhere I feel that my next step is to go through the spaghetti and put plugs on all the cables, map where they go in the house and replace the phone jacks with Ethernet jacks. Here's where i need my math checked. I have a modem/ router stuck in one room and all the cables stuck in a room maybe 40' away. one option i see, one that i don't really want to do, is to run a cat 5 cable thru the walls to the furnace room, put a switch in that room to connect all the other jacks in the house then install a mesh or whatever upstairs. i should say at this point that the room with the modem/router doesn't have any other jacks or anything that goes to the furnace room. If anyone has any suggestions im all ears, cuz for the next week I'm just putting plugs on all these friggin cables. really i just want to have my cpu on ethernet and wifi on the top floor. here are some other fun facts that may help: 1. one of the previous owners had google fiber put in. the fiber port is just run thru the front of the house into the living room. i have over a gig from xfinity for way cheaper so i just moved the services over. not sure if during the install process it was determined to mess with the cabling in the furnace room. 2. most rooms have coax ports in the, but im not sure how to test if they are terminated. 3. that furnace room has a splitter with some coaxz cables plugged into it, no idea where they go or what they are/were for.

Hi all-- I have a Unifi Switch Aggregation (a layer 2 switch) and am trying to disable RSTP on specific ports on the switch. These devices are being significantly delayed while connecting to the network because of the RSTP "config time" which happens every time the devices (Windows 11 clients) wake from sleep or turn back on after being shut down. In my internetworking class that I am taking in college, my professor suggested that I enable spanning-tree port fast which is meant for the Cisco devices we use in class. Is it possible and how I could do this on my Ubiquiti switch?

Hi all- I recently got a Ubiquiti Switch Aggregation (the switch with 8x 10G SFP+ ports on it). I am having a problem where Windows clients that are connected to the switch with SFP+ to RJ45 adapters are taking upwards of 1-2 minutes to start receiving any traffic. I am not sure what is causing this. I currently have all 8 ports of the switch in use. I am using 2x aggregated together for a 20G connection to another switch (no connection delay), 1x for our main router (no connection delay), 1x for a PoE switch (no connection delay), 1x for a NAS (no connection delay), and then then the 3 remaining ports are connected to 10GbE equipped windows machines. The SFP+ to RJ45 adapters are from fs.com and the NICs in the Windows machines are from ASUS and TP-Link, all using the same chip from Aquantia I believe. I am using CAT6A ethernet cables between the switch and the machines. Once each machine connects (which usually like I said takes between 1 - 2 minutes) they are able to obtain the full 10/10 G speed. Does anyone have any ideas of what settings I can tweak? Should I try setting static IPs for those devices?

Day by day, especially since the release of Nintendo Switch and Steam deck, we see a rampant and growing market of portable handheld "gaming console". Many manufacturer trying trippy design language or introducing unique features, the likes of Asus ROG ally and Original Nintendo Switch/Switch OLED, meanwhile the others like Valve is stay in the classics design realm with the steam deck and most of Aya neo product lineup. Despite the hardware and software variation, when we talking about handheld gaming, the portability and comfort when we use the device, especially in long time duration, is mainly a big point. What do you think is the most practical and comfortable design in this realm? maybe you guys are like me, who prefer PSP and PS Vita design, or maybe the dual screen design like Nintendo 3DS? Or maybe combination of Steam Deck design with slight modification? let me know your opinion down below! Opinion about the hardware and software are also welcomed ☺

I have an ethernet cable running from my main router (D-link DIR-825) which also serve as Wi-Fi access point for the whole house to my room. Recently I needed to plug in another computer (a laptop) in my room. Since Running another cable is very tedious, I decided to use my old D-link router (DIR-816) in switch mode (WIFI disabled), dhcp off, UPnP off. Every thing was working fine so far. But after connecting any device on the now switch, WIFI grinds to stop on the main router. What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your help.

will two of these 1.25G SFP to RJ45 Module, 1000Base-T Copper SFP Ethernet Transceivers work on my EnGenius EWS2910P-FIT 55W Gigabit PoE 8 Port Switch in the 9th & 10th port with 1 to my router & 1 to nas ?

A colleague recently moved into a house that appears to have been owned by an IT enthusiast or professional. We are trying to figure out how the internet setup is meant to work...it's not at the moment. From what we can see, the external internet connection: Goes into the home and straight to a patch panel (we don't know which of the 24 ports it goes to) then to a 24-port CISCO SR224 Switch from the switch back to the patch panel then to the modem router in the home office (we have worked out that 8 on the patch panel goes to the modem) The issue is that we can't figure out which number on the patch panel is the internet connection, and even when they are all plugged into the switch, the modem doesn't get a connection. Welcoming any ideas, suggestions or solutions! Thanks in advance!

This is a weird one, I can't even figure out where to start in figuring this out. Hello everybody! I recently started having issues with my network, specifically my LAN connected devices. My network is set up the following way: Outside fiber -> Telekom fiber modem -> FritzBox 7590 (router) -> ca. 10m (~33ft) CAT5e LAN cable -> TP-Link TL-SG105 -> 2 PCs and a wired WLAN-AP. Tl;dr (for details, read the rest): I randomly lose LAN connection to my router. I can sometimes get it back. When I get it back, I sometimes still can't reach the router or the internet. Surefire way to fix it is rebooting the router. Have no clue what is going on. I should mention, the cases I'm describing here are not all one event but multiple events where sometimes one of the solutions I tried worked BUT there was one event where I did everything in the described order. Here it gets weird: When I walk out of my room I directly walk past the switch. It's on the bottom of a shelf with the LAN cable running underneath the shelf. When I come back to my PC, I've lost LAN connection. Further, the line coming in on the switch shows up as disconnected. So, my first thought was, maybe the cable and the super janky LSA connector I use to connect the end of the cable coming out of the wall to another cable that then goes into the switch slightly moves when I walk past it (this building is about 90 years old) and there is a bad connection. So, I pulled it apart, confirmed it works fine with a multi meter and put it back together. Issue persists. It's also not guaranteed to fail when I walk past it. Instead, it fails randomly. Next thing I did was log into the FritzBox with my phone to see what it can tell me. LAN shows up as disconnected. I go and just change all the ports. Go from port 0 on the FritzBox to port 1 and shuffle all ports on the switch. LAN shows up as connected on the FritzBox again but no devices. Weird... I check my PC and it tells me, no internet access but LAN is connected. Even weirder... I'm pretty much at a loss and start throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks. /ipconfig renew is the first thing I think of, and it tells me the DHCP-Server isn't replying. But I can see that something assigned an IP to my PC. I change the port speed on the FritzBox from 1Gbit to 100Mbit and boom, my PC shows up as connected to the FritzBox, but I still don't have internet AND I can’t reach the FritzBox from my PC. So, renew again, I think. Still no reply from the DHCP-Server. What?! Switch the port back to 1Gbit and nothing changes. PC still shows up, still can't reach the FritzBox or reach the DHCP server. Only thing left that I could think of, is reboot the FritzBox and now everything works fine. A few hours later (I've walked in and out of my room multiple times now) I walk out of my room and come back: LAN connected but no internet access. Huh? Try to reach the FritzBox with my PC, nope. Log in with my phone, LAN connected but no devices. I just, what? I know enough about networking to know that I know nearly nothing and not enough to even begin figuring this out. I know a thing or two about wires, wiring and how important shielding is to know that the LSA connector is jank but works fine and isn't affected by the floor subtly shifting when I walk past it. If pulling on the cable (dw, I'm not yanking on it) to get it out underneath the shelf doesn't affect it then why would walking past it? Beyond that I have absolutely no clue what is going on. I did run the cable my self and there are no points where someone could walk over it or even damage it in any way. What I'm saying is, it's done right. Any help in diagnosing the issue or even fixing it would be much appreciated. English isn't my first language if there are any points where something isn't clear, I apologize and please don't hesitate to ask for clarification. Thanks in advance, Zero

Will two devices on the same network still have to go through the router if they want to communicate with each other even though they are connected to the same switch? Will they have to go out of their way to go through the router? I drew a diagram here. It's kind of sloppy since it currently 2:30 am and I couldn't sleep without asking this question first.

I've been planning to re-paste thermal paste for my V2 switch (2019). It doesn't get seriously hot, but there is definitely an increase in heat fan noise and heat overall. Plus I think it needs little bit of cleaning and servicing! I have serveral years of experience with PC parts and larger consoles, but this is the first time I'm taking apart something small and delicate as the switch. Im planning to do the following to improve the thermal performance of this device, please let me know if I've planned something wrong or anyway I can improve these. Remove the metal CPU shield cover shim (or whatever thats called) and re-apply thermal paste there (Noctua NT-H1, surface will be cleaned with Arctic Clean Kit + 70% alcohol wipes). Put thermal pad on memory modules (options below) 2.a - Put a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the shim and the memory module 2.b - Put only on top of the shim not inside it (but I feel like there is not enough contact between the modules and the shim 2.c - do both above. Then reapply the paste between shim and heat-pipe Then between the pipe and the shield plate I also wanted to know If I can replace the foam pieces on heat-sink with standard duct-tape -----or----- some thermal pads? (Thermal pads on heat-pipe will be a bad idea when it comes to heat dissipation) - I have a feeling they are tightly glued and may tear when removing the heat-sink, just being ready. I need help with steps 2 and 5 mainly here, what should I do?

I bought this cheap DP switch, soldered off the button switch so I can control it via an ESP8266 that is hooked up to Home Assistant. The thing is the DP switch just completely cuts off the connection from PC to the other when the button is hit which means all my windows on one monitor go to my second all messed up. Since I'm on Windows 11, when I make the switch back to my first PC all the windows go back to the place they were before which is nice. It's just annoying when I switch my main monitor all the windows get messed up on my second monitor. I was wondering if there are any good DP switches out there that keep a phantom display (I think this is called EDID?) so all the windows don't go messed up on my second monitor? Ideally it's just a DP switch and not a full KVM with USBs and stuff but that's also acceptable if the video can be switched independently from the USB ports. I have a separate USB switch that switches between PCs so I can switch my mouse and keyboard to my first PC if I want to.

No spoilers here, if asked I can upload screenshots but I don't want to risk it knowing how Nintendo is. Maybe this can be a topic for Wan show. I haven't gathered much information on it, just downloaded it and played it so here is what I know. Basically, the game got leaked 1 week before the official release. Nintendo has been copyright-claiming gameplay videos on youtube left and right which I think is funny, and the game is fully playable on emulators(although with some major issues.) Known major issues in these emulators are some texture glitches, one of the new areas being barely unplayable cause of that(there is a workaround) and game crashes every now and then. Even with all of this, I've been able to play through the whole first area of the game in a few hours after configuring it. For what I have seen looks like some people got the physical copy of the game earlier on and ofc they started making images of them and the game got instantly on privateered websites. Maybe people can share more information here, for the time being though, this is all I know.

Hi guys, I need some advice here. So, I bought a switch in 2018, and I jailbroke it in 2022. And I bought myself a new Zelda edition Switch I want to transfer my game data to my new Oled Switch, but I am not sure if Nintendo will ban my old Switch if I connect it to the internet. More details here, my jailbroken switch is using the atmosphere I have heard that if you are using the non-jailbroken firmware you will be fine. Is that true? Need some help

Hi guys, I've been planning to buy a handheld. I am stuck between Steam Deck and Switch. If I buy Steam Deck, I will use it mainly as a switch and gamecube emulator and accasionally some AAA games such as Elden Ring. I would like to know the battery usage when I use it as an emulator. If it's not much better than Switch's I'll buy the Switch. I am not planning to play the latest games or play something with 4k graphics. I could use some help.