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Hey! I've had some issues with my audio and never bothered fixing it until now. I was hoping to get some advice on how to proceed. MY SITUATION: 1.) My powered Edifier mr4 in general will buzz at a certtain volume whern idle (the roller on the speaker itself). I keep the roller a little down which is just fine, it's not the issue. 2.) my NZXT B550 motherboard rear 3.5mm connector is broken for no reason. They cannot replace/repair because it is no longer selling. I use the front panel 3.5mm connector instead. 3.) My audio configuration is using a 3.5mm out header on my O11D front panel connector. It connects to a Y-splitter. One side of the splitter goes to my Subwoofer (3.5mm to RCA splitter), the other side goes to my edifier MR4's. I do not move the rollers (for levels) on the subwoofer and edifier MR4's as I prefer to adjust volume on windows directly. (Adjusting the speaker would require me to adjust the subwoofer and it sounds weird otherwise) --------------------------------------------- THE SOUND ISSUE I HAVE: ISSUE: outside of the buzz in my situation #1 above, I hear high pitch noise when my mouse moves, and it's really obvious if i temporarily increase volume roller on the speaker. The buzz occurs when I scroll etc. Ther sound seems change a bit if my CPU or GPU is under load, a constant buzz when this happens. My research: My research led me to believe it is not the cables, and it is likely involving lack of EM shielding in the computer. That or it's related to ground loop issues. I've also heard this is an extremely common issue with USB. Apparently, the toshilink is handy here (optical), which I happen to have on my motherboard. --------------------------------------------- HOW DO I PROCEED?: After reading many forum pages on reddit and LTT, I was considering an external DAC or Audio interface. People have suggested DAC over budeget audio interfaces because the quality of the DAC unit inside the audio interface may be very bad (and that the device often focuses on input and ports as opposed to output). Im also told that those dongle DAC's like apple's USB-C one are pretty good. However, I've also read that toshilink's dont allow noise to travel like USB does,and so I've ultimately been looking into Budget DAC's that have toshilink input. Will this solve my issue? SUMMARY: please let me know if this works: B550 -> Toslink Cable -> Budget DAC -> (Y-splitter into powered sub and powered speakers) OR (connecting speaker and sub directly if DAC allows) SOME OTHER IDEAS: Optical to Reciever, audio interface, etc. However, none seem to be economic. Additional Quesitons: Would having a Dac with tube amplifier benefit over one without? Something like this: AIYIMA T10 JAN5654 Tube Vacuum Preamplifier Audio Decoder Do all DAC's inherently have an amplifier inside? Will this matter much for powered devices like mine (speaker and subwoofer are both powered) Will my toshilink cable->DAC idea work in reducing noise on the motherboard? (Mouse movement noise, CPU/GPU load noise, etc) Noticed all the budget DAC recommendations only have 1 output (L/R RCA), any good way to add on more without it becoming gimmicky (bad quality) or super expensive Any sub-100$ DAC recommendations for USA Amazon? If you read these, don't feel pressured to answer ALL of them. that's a ton of work but I do have a ton of questions. Any advice/info is useful

Ok, little bit of a click-bait title. I know that I need to turn off my subwoofer and monitors before restarting, which is what I do. The REAL question is what can I do to avoid needing to crawl under my desk to turn off my subwoofer? My thought is that the popping occurs because my audio interface is USB-powered and the popping occurs when the interface loses power (or when it turns back on, not 100% sure which). I wonder if I got one that was self-powered, it might solve the problem? Any other suggestions on what I might do to avoid having to crawl under my desk to turn off the subwoofer? Thanks!

Not sure if this is the right subforum, but its still tech related and that's partially what i need help with. I have a 2022 Impreza Sport hatchback, and I was looking for something that would improve the audio setup. It has a good sound to start, but when listening to things like heavy metal, the heavy and constant bass/low notes tend to mush together with everything else, and I was wondering if there was a small subwoofer or something that I could redirect the lower notes to. I don't know much about audio at all, so if there's a better solution than that, let me know. IDK if this is important or not, but I bought the car new with all the warranties, so something that would potentially void that would probably be off the table. I also don't want to spend a crazy amount of money. Any help/recommendations are appreciated, thanks!

So I have a home theater setup using Klipsch speakers and their subwoofer (got a bundle, here’s the link to my exact products: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097CJYZHD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 ) Anyway, I've Had it for about 6 months now and it’s great, till about a week ago I started hearing the Sub vibrating when I step in certain places. Now it does this all the time when I am walking within distance from it, with a few steps turning its vibration and base up to 12 and doing it continuously till I pull the plug on it. I have NO idea how to fix this, please let me know if there is a way!

I have bought new creative pebble plus 2.1 channel sound system, and I am confused where to put my sub woofer, on lower table with this much conjested space or shall I move it on floor?

So my speaker system is normally switched off but these days it was switched ON. But today outta nowhere I heard this weird banging noise coming outta nowhere and I realise that it's the Z313 2.1 speaker system... As you can see down in the videos, the subwoofer is giving out a beat for no reason and when I plug the speakers IN the Left speaker also starts to follow that same banging sound and rhythm. Is this thing fixable or should I just throw it away ??? Some help would really do me some good. By the way, one video shows the subwoofer itself while the other video shows the subwoofer with the speakers plugged in... 20231028_174047 (1) (1).mp4 20231028_174210 (1) (1).mp4

I have a pair of KRK Classic 5's connected with Balanced TRS cables to an Arturia MiniFuse 1. I have an SVS SB-1000 kicking around that I want too add to the setup. I understand that studio setups typically route from Interface > Sub > monitors. However, the SB-1000 does not have balanced inputs or outputs. Is it possible to add the SB-1000 while retaining balanced audio for the monitors? I believe I could get the system to work with TS (unbalanced) to RCA cables from the interface to the sub, then another pair from the sub to the monitors. I would really like to retain balanced audio for the monitors. Could I use a pair of TRS splitters (one for L & one for R) out of the interface > balanced TRS cables (one from each splitter) to the monitors AND unbalanced TS to RCA cables to the sub (L & R channel)? Or would mixing the TS and TRS cables in the splitter make both unbalanced? Thanks in advance!

Hey LTT Forums, I’m currently living in an apartment and am looking to find a solution to improve my audio. Currently I am just using the built ins of the tv. Any 5.1 solution is out of the question due to space limitations (my couch is backed up to the wall). I average between 50-60 dBs when watching tv so not loud. With that information I have a few questions for y’all: A) Is a subwoofer going to be too loud for an apartment? I’m on the first floor but I’m still worried about bass traveling through walls. B) Is an upgraded solution worth it with volumes at that level? C) Do y’all have some recommendations for an upgrade? I’m looking at ≈$200 (USD) price range but I could be convinced to go up.

Hello and thank you for taking the time to answer my post. I recently bought Edifier 1280T speakers to upgrade my audio setup in my bedroom and I would like to get a subwoofer to complement them. The best subs I found under 170 euro are the ones in the title. Edifier T5(8'' driver) is around 117 euros and POLK AUDIO PSW 10E(10'' driver) 162 euros. Is there a significative difference between the two to justify the higher price?

I have an old speakers + subwoofer setup where the speakers cannot play sound unless its connected to the subwoofer and uses speaker wire to connect to the subwoofer. Recently, When I connect the speaker wire to the subwoofers, the speakers only plays sound from the left channel. There's no problem with the other speaker, because when its connected to the subwoofer I can still play sound through it via an aux cable. And I know its not that I have my sound set to mono, because when I tried to use an interface, the right channel wasn't playing at all. Help pls

So I've been having alot of trouble trying to reconnectmy subwoofer to the soundbar. I have the LG SN7R, and it comes with a 33w sub (model no: SPN5B-W). Everything had worked fine up untill yesterday, I came home, and the sub hasn't connected to the soundbar. I have tried a few things, power cycling both the soundbar and sub. Re connecting all of the wireless systems by holding the volume down button for a few seconds, then the mute button for a few after. Another process that you hold the vloume down button and the sound effect button for a few seconds. Seince I'm here then nothing has worked, the LED on the sub will not stop flashing green, apparently it can alternate between red and green, it can be solid red, but all I've seen is flashing green. And seince trying all these things, and the soundbarhas connected fine to the small receiver that controls the rear speakers. I'm lead to imply there's a problem with the sub, so I took the back off and aside for an ungodly ammout of glue I think it is, everything seemed fine and connected properly. But does anyone have anything else i could try? Ive had this setup for 10 months so it's not old. Otherwise I may have to just return it and try to find something similar.

Just like the title says. When I move my mouse over something to select it, there is a small humming noise. It also happens when I scroll on a webpage. Noise does not go away when audio is playing. I have tried a new audio cable running to the subwoofer and shielding the cable with a sleeve. I tried a sound card to take the processing off the CPU in case that was the problem, that did not make the noise go away. I also read some articles that it could be due to video cables running to monitors so I replaced those with shielded DP 1.4 cables and the noise still has not gone away. I really don't want it to be a bad subwoofer so I am willing to try whatever. PLEASE HELP!

hello, so i was just using my computer as normal watching videos ect. then I hear a thump/pop sound from my subwoofer and then no audio from speakers. Red light is still turned on so speakers have power but no audio is playing. i have creative soundblasterX Kratos s3 speakers if thats any help. The thumping sound can also be heard whenever i plug the speakers powercable in but still no audio. Any suggestions or are they just done? Thanks

Hello, I am currently in the process of a budget 2.1 set-up for the TV and a record player in the living room. Currently I have the SMSL AD18 taking an input from my TV via optical and record player via AUX and outputting to a pair of Klipsch R-41M Speakers. This set-up satisfies my needs of sounding better than the TV speakers, and having a small footprint (The SMSL is tiny). I am wanting to add a subwoofer into the mix as the speakers lack a bit on the low end, and I want some more boom when watching movies. I am a little confused as to what I am needing for set-up. This amp states the COAX doubles as a Subwoofer output as seen below: I am a little skeptical about this as it seems it won't be the cleanest signal to the sub. My question is should I be fine using this as a connection to sub and getting a sub with these inputs: Or should I get a sub with high-level inputs/outputs as seen below, and not use the sub out on the amp (I will not be getting a Polk Sub, it's just for reference): Any input on the matter would help as there is not much information about the output on the amp that I could find. Thanks!

Hi there I was having a difficult time on a home theater setup and was wondering if someone who know better could tell me if what im doing is gonna work. So Im planning to buy and install two in wall speakers on the left and right (Those ones actually: R-5502-W II In-Wall Speaker | Klipsch ) and a speaker amp ( This one: Schiit Audio: Audio Products Designed and Built in California ) but wanted to also include subwoofers ( 2 of those: RW-5802-II In-Wall Subwoofer | Klipsch ) So I know the Ragnarok is good for the two speakers but wanted to know if I can hook up the subs on it and if yes, I would be really happy if someone could tell me how to hook them up thanks.

I've had a 2.1 system with a subwoofer connected to my computer for a while now and previously, I got it to work by setting the Realtek Audio Manger app thing to stereo and in the Registry editor setting the crossover to whatever (usually 60-120hz). I recently rebuilt my PC so now instead of an MSI motherboard I have a Gigabyte motherboard. Now my audio manger looks like this: It looks different from the old MSI branded Realtek control center thing and I can't seem to get the subwoofer to work. I've tried setting the speaker config to stereo and also to 5.1 and disabling the full range speakers like in the picture above. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I read the two threads already on here about the sub not working, but neither of the solutions worked. Note: I should add that, when clicked on in the audio manger, the sub does play a sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated! PC Info: Audio Driver version: 6.0.8703.1 Motherboard Model: Gigabyte b550 Aorus pro ac

Hi, I bought a new 2.1 speaker combo, nothing fancy, it's a logitech z407. I'm really not into high end audio so it's fine. My issue is where to place my subwoofer, I don't really want it on the floor, I can see that one day it will get wet and I want to avoid it, is there any other option for me? I don't want it on my desk, the vibration and lack of desk space.

I bought yesterday the Benq EX2780Q and comparing to my previous monitor I find it more difficult to understand voice sound Feels that it is too much bass, like the person talking is always inside a metal barrel

My current build, setup, and child Started out as a Ryzen 3 3100 and 1650 super then gradually was upgraded to where it is now. Specs: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X ASRock B550M PRO4 G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 2x8 3200MT/s CL16 GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 3070 MASTER Phanteks Eclipse P360A Seasonic FOCUS GX-850 850W Gold 2 x Western Digital WD BLACK SN750 1TB Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML280 Mirror 3 x Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 2 x Cooler Master SickleFlow 140 Windows 10 Pro Setup: GIGABYTE M27Q ASUS VP249QGR Custom KBDFans 65% Keyboard Razer Strider XXL Logitech G Pro X Headset Logitech G Pro X Superlight Logitech Z623 Ram overclocked to 3334 MT/s CPU overclocked and undervolted to 4.75 GHz at 1.325 Volts GPU overclocked and undervolted to 2.05 GHz at 75% power limit (200 Watts) GPU has a custom fan curve to minimize noise and sits at 0 fan speed when idle Good value, just dont spend too much on the GPU like me... $860 still hurts.

Odd issue, I can't find a solution anywhere, people don't seem to have this problem. I bought a new pair of Kanto TUKs and the SVS PB-2000 Pro. I'm using an RCA cable (that works, tested) that goes from the sub-out port to the input ports (of the SVS sub). Turn on the music and the sub - QUIET, while speakers play like nothing happened. Crazy thing is - if I take the same RCA cable and instead of plugging it in the sub-out, plug it into the headphone jack of the TUKs, the sub starts playing... (but speakers of course stop because they are outputting to "headphone" jack). Like what??? Which leads me to believe that the sub-out port is the issue. I read the instructions, I can't seem to find anything that I did wrong. What am I missing? This is my first time hooking up a sub, but it seems to just work for everybody else. Is this me or the speaker problem? Let me know guys!