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Ever since I installed my new ssd and a fresh Windows 11 install, I'm always having this notification when booting into Windows. Basically, it prompts me saying: Microsoft Defender Antivirus is periodically scanning your device. Which in my case sounds fine. But follows up with, You're also using another antivirus programme for active protection. Funnily enough I'm not, but could Microsoft's PC Manager be interfering with this? Obviously, it's an open beta and you would expect stuff like this but I don't know when this weird notification started popping up. I quite like it, as it does actually lower my ram's utilisation, however, I would rather get rid of it if this annoying notification went away. Though I don't know what's making it happen. Any suggestions?
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Hello! For the past month now, my computer has been experiencing some rather odd crashes, in ways I've never quite seen before. I've spent a considerable amount of time attempting to troubleshoot the issue, but alas, it persists, and I'm worried about potential hardware damage it could cause. Let me play out the events of the crash as they playout. This is just one example of the crashes happening from a few weeks ago, but the events as the crash occurs are always the same. Playing Tom Clancy's Rainbow Six | Siege with two friends in a Discord call. We've been playing for about five or six hours at this point. Suddenly, my controller stops registering inputs into the game, however, I can still see and hear the match playing on without me, I just can't interact with it. I ask my friends in the Discord if they're having issues as well, but I see on my other monitor that Discord is not registering any input from my microphone, though I can still hear the conversation they're having. My keyboard and mouse still work so I alt-tab out of the game, but while I'm doing that, I realize that the RGB lights in them that are usually cycling at a rather fast rate have stopped and look almost as if someone "paused" the cycle. I hit ctrl+alt+del to try and get to Task Manager, but nothing happens. I look over at my GPU and CPU monitoring software, both of which are running fine, neither of which topped more 67*C during the gaming session. After a few seconds of attempts, suddenly the game and Discord audio cutout, and I can no longer interact with any tab. Even the taskbar freezes in place. Then both my mouse and keyboard stop registering inputs as well. Nothing works any more and all tabs and monitors are frozen. I wait several minutes in vein hope that the issue will resolve itself, but nothing happens. Finally, I am forced to hit the power button on the PC itself to close it, but nothing happens. Push the button again several times, still nothing. Alas, in order to turn off the PC, I have to kill power to it and hold the button down until it forces it off. These series of events are repeated every time a crash occurs, the only difference is what I am doing at the time of the crash. For the longest time, the only correlation I could see between crashes was that Nvidia Shadowplay was running in the background, either actively or passively recording something. Having assumed the cause of the crashes was Shadowplay, I disabled all of it's functions and downloaded some different recording software to use in it's place. And that did seem to fix it, going a good several days without another instance of the crash occurring. Until today. Having been bored and not having much to do, I decided to watch some YouTube for a bit. Had only been watching videos for about 40 minutes and another crash occurred except this time there was no Shadowplay, no games, now downloads, not recordings, nothing, and hardly anything running in the background. The computer itself had only been running for probably an hour-and-a-half, and hadn't handled anything taxing like gaming yet. At this point I am genuinely stumped at what could be causing the issue, as I've never had this happened before, nor have I been able to find anything on the web about it. I've ensured I had all of my drivers up-to-date, updated Windows, and reinstalled Razer Synapse for my various input devices. I'm afraid my knowledge on these issues are lacking, and so I'm not even sure where else I should look, or start on trouble shooting, so I would greatly appreciate any assistance I could be given! PC Specs: OS: Windows 11 MB: MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk CPU: AMD Ryzen 5950x w/ 420mm Corsair AIO Water Cooler RAM: 64GB DDR4 G.Skill Trident Z RGB (4x 16GB Sticks) GPU: AMD TUF Gaming RTX 4090 OC Edition (Not worth it by the way. Deeply regret it) PSU: EVGA 1600w P+ Supernova (Platinum Rated) Storage: 1x Samsung 980 Pro NVME.2, 2x assorted Samsung SSDs, 1x old 4TB Harddrive, 1x External 10TB Harddrive
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have two laptops one has mx150 and i7 8650u, other has gtx1050 and i5 7300hq. so i installed on both minecraft with the same shaders but the mx150 performs better then gtx1050 with no setting changes checked for thermal throttling there is none, the cooling is good for the gtx 1050 but i think a little lacking for the mx150, cpu bottle neck none, so is the MX150 better or is there a problem cuz i checked gtx1050 is better then mx150. i need help with this
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Hello everyone. TL:DR at the bottom, Screenshots + pictures of what I talk about are attached To start this off, I have bought myself a shiny RX 580 Nitro+ 4GB with funds I got off mining in the past and by selling my current RX 560. I have bought it on my own nation knockoff of eBay, and I know I should be more cautious, but it seemed legit. Now, the seller is only selling these, and is very direct in claiming they are real deal RX'es 580's. He sold like 70 of them already, and have gotten like 15 positive reviews. (The only negative one was about one of GPU's giving artefacts, which is not happening to me.) so this only is making me more interested. Now, I have ran some benchmarks when I got my GPU to check if it's legit, and this is where strange things begin to happen. In mining... this card doesn't perform as RX580 should, not at all. It seems to perform as RX 570. Both on nicehash, and on nanopool mining ergo. (On nanopool, I'm getting 47 MH/s, instead of RX 580 60 MH/s) HOWEVER, in my gaming test, it seems to be doing... quite okay as far as games go, as far as I've checked, it got okay results in Unigine Heaven benchmark that point to RX 580 more then RX 570. (And before anyone ask, seller of card claimed that the paste on GPU itself was changed, and besides, the issue with mining are the same no matter if card mined 1 minute after computer was turned on, or is mining for entire night. Plus I ran some tests, and despite higher self RX'es being rather hot, this one isn't too hot, really. So I don't think it's thermal throttling) But what is even stranger, is that when I run GPU-z, it says it's RX580, but, when I click 'lookup' it points me to RX 570. And what is even stranger, is the fact that when I looked on the board itself... It seems to give off RX 580 numbers. So here is my question, what, the, heck is this card. Should I return it and ask them to send me actual RX 580? (They offered to do so if the sticker on this one said RX 570, and as far as I checked, it says 580? I'm not sure as I cannot really read these, and I'm not even sure which sticker they meant) Should I ask for a full refund? Should I flag their account to my nation eBay knockoff for selling scam GPU's? However, if this is actually a scam GPU, I had managed to track down people responsible for it, because they left a sender address, a name of company together with address, and thanks to using my nation national court registry, I was able to track down personal data of people responsible for it, so I think I maybe could actually stop them, and maybe even give the data to the police, and for sure get them knocked off Allegro (my nation eBay.) if nothing else. And you see, because there is so much weird things here that seem to point in both direction, and because I actually have personal data of people responsible for it, this is only making me more curious. So, any help here would be really appreciated. TL:DR Possibly bought a scam RX580, but there are some signals that it isn't a scam, but it isn't working as a normal RX 580 should work, and I'm really confused. .
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Hello, I'm making this post because I'm somewhat concerned about my PS5. While I'm using the Crunchyroll just navigating the episode and seasons menu I hear something moving within the console. To me it sounds like the app is minorly controlling the fans with each input I do in the menu's. The noise I can't seem to pick up with my phone it's just strange that the app is making it do it. Another thing is if you put your ear up against the usb c port on the controller you can hear different frequencies depending what mute setting you have it in. Now I'm not too concerned with that but more so concerned if the app is controlling my fans or something that it shouldn't be doing because I think everyone knows how half assed Crunchyroll handles there tv streaming apps so I figured to say something just in case there is in fact an issue with it. Has anyone else experience something similar or weird like this with the PS5? I'm really curious now
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So this has been happening for quite a while now, where I would go to click my power button to put my pc into sleep and the monitor would shut off, but the fans and lights would remain on and the fans would run at a reduced rate. Usually it is only the RAM LEDs that stay on during sleep. When I go to boot the system back up after it going into one of these "false" sleeps the monitor doesn't pick up the GP (GTX660) and then I have to reset the PC (have another power button for that) and it resets the PC and goes to the BIOS, fun thing though my monitor after a failed sleep doesn't detect a signal so I have to go and usually plug in an old monitor into the DVI port and get into the bios that way, my BIOS has all the UEFI settings enabled (thought that would stop it from going to defaulting to the DVI port on the GPU. I have a GTX660, R7 5800x (yes I know big bottle neck, but can't get a new GPU yet) X570-e STRIX ASUS 32gb of 3600Mhz RAM, 8tb HD 500gbssd, RM850x PSU. Please help.
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So i've noticed on my gf PC (It's a new PC recently built) a strange clicking noise that gets really loud and fast when playing games or doing anything more intensive. I have no clue what this might be help? I left a video showing the noise and how it stops if i close the game. Link to video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16jdEjkjDX5Ipljq6dGgBNZORCpuZF9lr/view
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Hi All, to start, I want to apologize for my bad English (Greetings from Germany). So I have some really Strange CPU/GPU WAHTEVER Problem . I Searched for Days to find some how has the exakt same problem and tried every Solution that I can find. First Off my PC Spec: INNOD3D RTX3060 ICHILL RED AMD RYZEN 9 3900X CRUCIAL BALLISTIX 3000MHZ RAM (2 x 8GB) SAMSUNG EVO 860 NVME SSD 500GB 4TB of HDD So I installed every Graphic-Card Driver I could find (INNOD3D or from Geforce Experience). Every Time I Boot into a Game I have comparably low FPS (1920x1080px and full settings in Forza Horizon 5 = 80FPS (VSYNC and Framlimit disabeld). In the top right Corner of my Screen I have my FPS and GPU Usage Overlay from Geforce Experience. GeforceExperience says 99% GPU usage but the Taskmanager says not more than 25 % GPU Usage. Thats really strange. Also my RTX3060 does not get warm (not more than 54 Degree Celcius). And the Fans even dont spin up more than 15% of the RPM. If you need something I will have it ^_^. Hopefully I can finde someone how DROP a Tip. Thnaks acevin1
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- rtx3060
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Okay 1 I had to re-install Windows, not shocking really what else is new? Then 2 change the way my 4 sticks of RAM was setup on the board... Before: (Booted to safe mode only) HyperX 2666MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) G.SKILL 3200MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) HyperX 2666MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) G.SKILL 3200MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) After: (All is OK? Tough this is the wrong way to do it right? You are not suppose to mix sticks in same channel right?) HyperX 2666MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) HyperX 2666MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) G.SKILL 3200MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) G.SKILL 3200MHz CL16 (8GB Samsung C-die) Is this a bad sign? Is this a sign of a issue?!! (this setup did not work prior to BIOS update, now it does...)
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Hello! About 2 weeks ago I started to experience random computer shutdowns. Specs: 3090 R5 5600x with stock cooler (temps are good) 1250w power supply 3200 c14 g.skill mem (16g) B550-f (wifi) 970 evo plus 500g 970 evo 1 tb At first I thought that it was because of 3090 power spikes (I have a 1250w power supply), but that wasn't the case, because I changed out my power supply and the problem was still there. Next I switched out my Gskill trident z 3200 c14 mem for a corsair kit, the problem still was there, I checked the cpu temperatures and waited for the crash (cpu was at 60°C) so that was not the problem... and then I reinstalled windows from 0, still randomly turns off... After that I changed out the ssd in hope that that would help, but it didn't. After that I experimented with placing the ssd in the second slot (bottom one) and when I try to format it, the computer abruptly shuts down, tried 3 times (made a restore point beforehand) and it consistently turns off when I try to format the second ssd. Now the only thing that is left for me to check is the MBD. I have latest bios, tried some older versions too, tried safeboot, cloned my system with samsung magician and everything went fine, but the second I try to format the second drive computer turns off. I would appreciate any help with the matter! Ty in advance! I am sorry that the post is messy and I probably haven't spelled everything correctly, tried though... (my third language). Forgot to mention that I changed out the gpu for a 3070 and the problem was still there...
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So I heard about the windows print nightmare bug around a week ago and didn't think much of it at the time, but the more I heard about it the more worried I got as I upgraded to Windows 11 on my main computer and today I decided to try and disable the print spooler service from Windows power shell. When I ran powershell as administrator the user account control looked eerily different and I'm wondering whether it is something to do with a hacker as one of the options says "remember me". Has anyone else seen this before?
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I bought a new gaming laptop ( Acer Nitro 5 AN515-45) and after 7 days this noise appears when my gpu is under load, and once my laptop just turned off without any reason . Link to the audio file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PVciJ-4PuucfuSQnR3GhnFXxEDmGCQRl/view?usp=drivesdk Edited: The laptop only works when the charger is plugged in(if I unplug it will immediately turn off) , and hase some connection problems at the charging port. Noise
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hye ive got an external hdd but it wont show up on my pc but is does on others. what i tried: didnt show up at diskmangement. doesnt show up at diskpart doesnt show up at devide mangager. does show up at anny other pc updated the whole pc and usb drivers. formated the external hdd in exfat and fat32. used more than one usb port both 3.0 and 2.0. so now im clueless and apperantly common google to. anny ideas?
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- external hdd
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Although I can't build this right now, I have an awesome idea for a pc but I don't know know if the idea is at all physically realistic. Is it at all possible to build a gaming pc in an old-timey diving helmet? Some quick research shows that the size of the opening on most diving helmets is about 8.5 inches in diameter which then leads to a sphere which has a larger internal radius. This is the only information I could find so I apologize if that is enough information to go off of.
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help PC crashes BUT fans trying to spin up and lights still on
ProCs1 posted a topic in Troubleshooting
Hello guys, i've been encountering an issue ever since i've built my new PC and it's driving me insane now. My computer seems to be crashing when on low load such as browsing the web, opening the browser, or something similar, not while gaming or stress test or anything of that sort which is weird. Crashing, as in monitor loses signal, keyboard loses signal, mouse loses signal but the CPU and fans seem to be still running (Led light is on on the case as well) Only way to get out of the situation is to force reboot with the case button. I have no idea what is causing this, i've tried changing the power plans (now on ryzen balanced) and setting different cpu minimum state limits(0-100%), i've tried giving generous voltage to the cpu(offset is at +102 now, around 1.28v says on the cpu Z), under clocking RAM from 3200 to 3000 but nothing seems to help. This problem occurs randomly maybe once in a week or so. I have the latest drivers installed, the latest windows, latest bios, latest chipset drivers. I'm out of ideas, if anyone more knowledgeable knows what might be the cause of this i'd be really thankful. My System: Mobo: B450m ds3h Cpu: Ryzen 1600AF Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200mhz (running at 3000 because anything above that is unstable for some reason??? on 3200 crashes withing 10 min of boot, on 3133 gives out some errors but is stableish, so i keep it at 3000) Cooler: Really good random cooler with 6 heat pipes, Cpu max temperature is 50 undr load, i have additional active cooling on VRMs GPU: RX 570 4GB Overclocked (1400 on Core 2000 Vram and under volted -50 and additional 30% power limit, Msi afterburner) Same issue occurs on stock GPU settings Power Supply: Definitely not the issue, just replacing it with a brand new EVGA 600watt 80+ bronze unit and same issue still occurs Storage: Single ADATA sata SSD Case: Random old case OS: Windows 10 Pro Thanks in advance.- 3 replies
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well im obviously not talking about the tv show. but every now and then programs on my pc seems to freeze and even in task manager the cpu isnt being picked up, in the sense that the graph doesnt move or the values dont change.
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As the the title suggests I live full time in my converted sprinter van. I'm planning a new PC build for the van. Originally I was going to go for a high-end Laptop (Eluktronics PROMETHEUS XVII, i9 12900H, 3080Ti 64GB) Instead I will build a new PC as I enjoy building them, I know how to repair them, and I'm buying for the next 8 years. Upgrading from i5 4690k, gtx 980, 16gb ddr3. My question to you guys would it be more beneficial to get a verticle gpu bracket or just a normal supported gpu? The PCIe slot will have to endure the bounce of normal road use and vibrations. Budget (including currency): infinite (no mortgage, no rent) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming, home Entertainment, basically everything that Amazon fire stick can't handle. Other details: likely a thicc GPU
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This https://www.westerndigital.com/products/accessories/sandisk-professional-pro-reader-sd-microsd#SDPR5A8-0000-GBAND That thing in the link above, it has this frame door thing on it. I was told that it's a handle for use with the Pro Dock 4. But I wonder if that is true. I mean, how would you get this "handle" to flip on when it's in the dock? Video here if you want it. It makes it a little clearer what I am talking about. And please don't tell me to read the instructions. I already did. It said nothing about this thing. https://odysee.com/@ARTOFTHEREÆL:4/what-is-this-door-for:d
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This is on MINT (20.3???)... I get this distortion, and you can hear it in the video below if you want.... but I get this distortion every time I visit certain sites. Fedex and Yandex Translate seem to be some of the worst about it. Why does this happen? Can I stop it? Here is a video of this matter https://odysee.com/@ARTOFTHEREÆL:4/Why-this-distortion:3
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I'm having this very strange issue with my memory. I bought two new sticks, these ones in fact, and paired them with my current memory. I KNOW, I know, don't mix brands, but I did it because the two sets have the same rated frequency and similar timings though not identical. Regardless, I installed the new memory and my PC did not boot, so I took out the new memory and re-seated the old only to be met with a boot failure and being kicked to the bios. No matter what I did I could not get my PC to boot with even just the old RAM, UNTIL I set the frequency to 2133MHz. The highest speed I can get out of the kit as of now is 2800MHz, so basically the memory will not run at its rated speed now after installing an uninstalling that new memory. Any ideas? Things I have tried: - Updating to newest BIOS/resetting BIOS to defaults and then changing the frequency - Setting memory speed via XMP and manually And some other system specs just in case it helps: CPU: 8700k @ 4.6GHz Mobo: Gigabyte Z370P-D3 PSU: Raidmax Cobra 1000W 80+ Gold
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Hi, This is my first post here. A friend told me this was a good place to post strange or odd PC problems. So I've had this issue for about a year now, randomly in some games my computer would just crash, loose all power and turn off. No errors, beeps or warnings before hand. It will restart but get stuck on post to either go into BIOS or the boot menu. Trying to restart normally, even restarting into safe mode it will get stuck. This doesn't happen in every game, just some. So far this has just happened to: Paragon Warframe OverWatch Elite Dangerous Perhaps another one or two I've just forgotten. As far as I know this is not a power usage problem. More demanding games have not crashed such as Arma 3, FarCry 4 and fully completed Metal Gear Solid: The Phantom Pain without a single crash, I have ran Prime95 and Unigine heaven on max possible settings for over an hour simultaneously and no crashes. Here are my specs Motherboard: MSI X99a SLI Plus BIOS: 1.B0 GPU: MSI 980ti GAMING 6G Nvidia Driver: 365.10 (backing to this fixed OverWatch) CPU: 5820x RAM: Corsair LPX DDR4 3000MHz clocked at 2166MHz PSU: SeaSonic 660w Platinum Fully Modular I'm really not sure what else to say, my first post here. Need more details about something just ask. This has gone on for too long. Thanks for reading. =] Jor~
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Hello LTT Forum members! This is not your everyday "help my pc won't boot" post, sadly, because i would have been able to troubleshoot that myself. My PC somethimes decides to be a bitch and revert the bios settings to default, and/or (depending on her mood) spinning the GPU fan at 100% with black screens. I once tried running the system with on-board graphics, and it worked. The GPU is the likely culprit, but I don't know why it boots most of the time, and is only bitching around sometimes? My CPU overclock validates with a few hours of aida stress test, the GPU is artifacting under load sometimes (while being at stock clocks, underclocking only makes it WORSE), but it doesn't crash during stress tests or during gaming. Here are the specs: - I5-4670k @ 4.4Ghz \w 1.3V - Asus R9 280X @ Stock - Asrock Z97 Fatality Killer - 2x4Gb Kingston HyperX Blu @ 1600Mhz (XMP) - XFX 650W What i already did: - Clean out the case - Take out the GPU and reseat it and the power plugs on it. - All my temps are fine after 1-2 hours of full system load my CPU's highest core value is 80C(avaraging 68), and my GPU's max is 72C. - My RAM already had Memtest86 check it, but it was a year ago, maybe i should give it a go again? - The motherboard has no blown caps/other components on it, and it reports 32C during load. Any suggestions are appriciated, thanks
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Good day. I have encountered a strange behavior in my network. My Router is the only DHCP server on my network, and there are 15 connected computers with DHCP Reservation each. One day I've decided to temporarily disconnect one computer and I removed it from the DHCP Reservation and obviously it shouldn't connect to its reserved ip which is x.x.x.160 . After 4 days, I've connected the aforementioned computer and I am expecting that the DHCP server should assign it on x.x.x.100 , but the ip address remains the same (x.x.x.160). PS: DHCP Lease is set to 12 hours. Is it strange? or Is it normal? Can you please enlighten me about it. Thank you very much.
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System Specs: - Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow - Mobo: Asus ROG Strix Z270F - CPU: I7 7700K - CPU Cooling(water): be quiet! Silent Loop 360 (3x be quiet! Pure Wings 2) -OLD CPU Cooling(air): be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 (2x be quiet! SilentWings ) -Grafics Card: Asus Strix 1080ti 11G -Case Fans: 3x Corsair AF140L Fan Configs: -OLD: 2 at the front(in)[lower one controled through the Grafics Card], 1 at the Back(out), and the Tower Cooler was oriented so that the two fans on it would blow the air out through the fan in the back -NEW: 2 at the front (out)[lower one controled through the Grafics Card], 1 at the Back (in)[controled through grafics card], 3 as pull through the radiator (in) Ok, so the Problem is: After switching to the Water Cooler I hear a strange noise (ONLY while gaming and ONLY with the Case Closed). I would describe the noise as a frequent change in Rotation speed of a Fan. I Already checked if it was a Certain Fan(unpluging one after the other[many reboots]) but it was always there. I have only two thing I would need to still try out, but well one is expensive(changing out all fans) and the other would be the one i will try now... changing the ins and outs to a recomendet config for this case. Thanks for reading and please write your ideas to this Subject!
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Hello, Just found this on CeX's website (below) and now I'm curious if it is real or not... Perhaps it was an OEM product?... Is it better than an R7 360? Like what happened... Please settle my confusion. Thanks.