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I love the idea of the backpack but I do not like to show off brands. It's nothing against LTT or its content but I think a clean no-logo backpack would look great!

Anyone know the stealthiest way to route a cable from one corner to the next (not including through the wall)? Need to get an ethernet cable from one corner of a room to the diagonal opposite. Appreciate the help!

Preface: Since I am deciding to gift my girlfriend- who is running a poor ol' laptop with integrated graphics to play games and have a good time- my current rig, I am planning to have my true powerhouse of a PC- my first build. And, hopefully, my only one in a long while. Hence, I am going to choose parts that are powerful, not too expensive, and above all - reliable. This project will start ASAP - under the condition that I have moved out to my own place to live. So I can technically start as early as March 2021. Another consideration is that I am not at all interested in RGB components. I am sorry, they look awesome and kinda evoke the feeling of "THIS BIG BOX OF COLORS HAS A LOT OF POWAH", however, my build is more of a stealthy powerhouse. A black, quiet box purring with an amazing 90 HP. Note: This plan is not the final revision. Changes can be made in the future. Budget (including currency): 2.000€ Country: Austria Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Video editing, Gaming & recording of gameplay, Home-Office, VR Other details: 1080p Gaming, new mouse required, Curret G502 starts to feel nasty - wireless sounds like a good idea. Logitech G Pro X + powerplay is of great interest. MAINBOARD: MSI B550-A Pro If there is one thing I learned about MSI, it is their reliability and robust industrial design. I am well aware of an RGB "gaming" version for 20 bucks-or-so more for a bit of RGB, however I am not really interested. M.2 and reliability are the main two factors I see worth, and this MB excels in exactly that. CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X AMD. My friend and helper. My lover, the friendly nurse that helped me recover from my duo-core nightmare brought forth from the old MacBook I had when I was 12. Especially now where their new lineup of CPUs outperforms Intel's current top-of-the-line processor, it's suffice to say "Time to spend those 413€ on some raw performance". If my pockets say yes and if your recommendations say so too, I might also settle for a Ryzen 9 5900X, however I doubt it because of the next point: COOLING: Stock "Wraith Stealth" I have no complaints with the 600's coolers at all. My brother remembers having used the FX's stock cooler back then, and mom used to complain "Turn down the lawnmower!" - hence the question, why spend extra money on something fancy if it's already purpose built? CPUs with the higher wattage in the Ryzen lineup do not come with a cooler, so an extra purchase would be required. Now you might also ask "Why not go watercooling?" Well, take this comparism. If you wanna go to your local tesco to buy that 4% fish discount, do you wanna go FAST and drive there with a Formula 1 racing car? Or do you wanna take your Ford Focus SE to drive there comfortably, while not quickly? Again. Reliability #1. I do not wish for a pump failure within a year. I know my luck. VIDEO CARD: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 BLACK Laugh now while I wait for my queue spot. I'm patient. Can you say the same? PCI-EXTENSION: Exsys EX-1093 PCI Now I do not know about you guys, but there are a LOT of things plugged into my PC. Webcam, mic, peripherals, VR-headset- while the MB is cheap and good and reliable, it lacks in USB slots a little bit. So, I know nothing really about PCI-Extensions, but I believe this 4-slotter will do nicely. STORAGE: Samsung Evo 970 Plus 1TB (Boot); WD BLUE 3TB WD30 (mass) Suffice to say- best bang for the buck in my opinion. Previous build uses the same SSD, I wish to use essentially the same SSD for my new build. However, the "mass" storage has to change. Currently, there is a 1 TB WD-Green HDD from 2015 in the back of my computer. It's so slow, my great grandparents are running faster! (I'm sorry.) Newer hard drives with even greater storage = Even happier gamer. Nuff said. RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3200 I am a bit divided on that one. Currently in my system, there are 32 Gigs of 3K MHz slotted in all 4 slots, but I must say... in terms of Ram- I have no clue whether 16 gigs might also be enough. I could save a few bucks if I use two of my existing ram-sticks and run both my current and my next build in dual channel mode. Or, if I want to go without any comporomises- I go for 32 Gigs of 3200 MHz Vengeance. A bit of advice would be a bit nice. Also, just as a small note: I am an avid Chrome user. POWER: Corsair RMx Series RM1000x Now, I have gotta say- I have no idea what PSU is in my current system. Not even my brother knows, and he supposedly bought it. All I know is that it's rated at 700 watts and it could be a ticking time bomb. It's still running and working alright so... yeah. However I'll need a new PSU for my build, so I'll go and take that modular PSU. Corsair knows what's good for ya. Besides if I am rocking a 3080, I will need those Kilowatt of power. CASE: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX Black Now you might be asking. "This thing has a glass sidepanel! You wanted a stealthy build! Why would you want this bright beast?!" Well I was thinking. If I have nearly 0 RGB components, and the lighting in the case is orange- I go for a distinct aesthetic: Orange streetlights on a road in the dark. Orange is my favorite color as well, so.. yeah. Besides, it's BeQuiet. They suppress noise, and their fans are so quiet! Pun intended. Besides - Three 140 mil. fans, dust filters nearly everywhere, a clean design and ample airflow? Sign me up. Let me know your thoughts. Recommendations and criticism of this concept are welcome, however please be constructive. Thank you for your time. -RA111

My wonderful children were messing around and bumped into me while I was working spilling coffee all over my new MSI G66. Everything worked fine until recently when the left shift key died. I'm worried it might be only a matter of time before other keys die. Since I use this laptop for work I want to fix this ASAP. I called around an no repair shop wants to take it on or told me they would "ship it out and see if they could help." The turnaround time to repair with MSI is 30 business days plus several weeks shipping. I can order a new keyboard (only 10 day shipping) but this repair looks like it would require basically taking the entire thing apart including heatpipes and motherboard. I've done repairs to laptops before like the trackpad, replacing components etc but this looks like a serious project and I didn't see any guides online. Is this an easier project than it looks like or should I just be prepared to wait a couple months and hope for the best?

So I am looking to buy the Razer Blade Stealth in the near(ish) future, and since I enjoy gaming from time to time, I do plan to pick up the Core as well. As for my question: Which discrete graphics card would you suggest? I of course don't want it to be bottlenecked by the Blade, but at the same time I do want to get a well performing (and preferrably sick looking) card. And suggestions?

Hey Guys, Ive tried a couple of USB-c type dongles with my Razer Blade Stealth and none of them seem to pass through power for charging. Since i need a couple more of usb ports i really would like to take advantage of the thunderbolt port while still being able to charge it. Isn anyone aware of a dongle that would work with the Stealth since all the Macbook dont seem to work. Thanks so much..

Hello LTT! (TL;DR AT THE BOTTOM) I had a strange, but good (IMO), idea for my 14" razer blade laptop. I purchased it around Christmas time, and I've had it for about a month now. I'm BASICALLY loving it - just one thing: I really, really want to have a mechanical keyboard. I realize that having an ultrabook and a cherry mx keyboard isn't a reality unless docked and using a real peripheral/external keyboard (I can't really think of the phrase here, but you know what I mean, a keyboard that isn't attached permanently to my laptop). That being said! There is a solution I found viable, and interesting that it wasn't an "option" on the razer site (every. fucking. company needs to have upsells that aren't just "what size hard-drive do you want?" Yes, I get that you can pick 12.5 or 14", but not really, because the components are MASSIVELY different (dedicated GPU for one thing), and yes, you can pick QHD vs FHD, but that's it! There IS a keyboard on the razer blade pro that's mechanical, I know, but that won't fit. However, what about the keyboard on the Razer ipad pro case? I'm sitting here with an ipad pro (12.x or whatever version, not the 9.7) in the razer case and it's roughly the same size as the blade. The keyboard is sunk in just like on the blade, the size itself of the keyboard is similar save a few keys (its also a mac-ish layout). TL:DR below Can I take the switches from all the non modifiers and FN row on the razer ipad pro case and replace the ones in the blade 14"? They look to be the same size, and the ipad case is mechanical chicklet style keys!

So ive had many crashing issues with my stealth before but razers support is as useful as ever. Recently over the past week my blade has become extremely slow, it takes about 5 seconds for it to register me clicking to open a program such as windows explorer, i cant watch any online videos on youtube or google play as they are simply slideshows even though my internet connection is a stable 30 down and 7 up with 11ms ping. Ive restarted it many times as i tend to just leave it on standby, run a virus/malware scan but no improvements, the slow down was very sudden, as in i was using is 10 minutes ago, shut the lid therefore putting it into standby mode, i booted it up after that an it was suddenly very slow. CPU usage looks about average when watching a video at 10-30% if a little higher than normal, RAM usage is higher than normal at minimum at 30%. I ran a crystal disk mark test on my SSD and the results are worrying as certain values are very low compared to some i found online. So is my SSD failing however crystal disk info shows no problems what so ever. I have reinstalled windows and no improvements.

I've been waiting on the new MacBook Pro release for a while but after the not-so-great release and the price tag of $1400 for the base model, I'm looking into alternatives. I'll be using the laptop for college so needs to be portable with a good battery life. I've looked into a few and came to the 3 different choices. Razor blade stealth, xps 13, or just going with the MacBook Pro. Any suggestions to which I should get? I like the xps 13 but I love the build and design of the blade stealth and the MacBook.

I am looking to purchasing a new laptop, i don't do anything particularly intense at the moment but I am looking to get into graphic design and content creation. I am currently looking at the: Dell XPS 13 9360 with an i7-7560U, 8GB RAM, FHD Non-Touch. Dell XPS 15 9560 with an i7-7700HQ, 8GB RAM, FHD Non-Touch. Dell XPS 13 9365 with an i7-7Y75, 8GB RAM, QHD+ Touch. Dell XPS 13 9360 with an i7-7500U, 8GB RAM, QHD+ Touch. Razer Blade Stealth with an i7-7500U, 16GB RAM, QHD Touch. please please please let me know ASAP my current laptop is dying! PS. concerning the Dell XPS 9365 it uses a intel Y chip what is their performance in comparison to a normal intel chip?

http://store.steampowered.com/app/236870/HITMAN/ It's down from $70 to $23.80 There's also a demo available if you want to preview the game to see if you like it.

My razer blade stealth 2017 feels pretty hot to the touch. This is my first ultrabook so is it normal for it to reach these temperatures/what is considered "normal" temp? Any help on how I can reduce the heat? In the beginning of the test I ran a game and the rest of it is just using YouTube. Do you recommend sending it to Razer so they can check it out or fix it? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks. stealthheat.jpg-large

I recently purchased a Razer Stealth with a 4k display and a 512GB M.2 drive. The battery life is horrific. It only runs 3-4 hours on one charge, even if I turn off the Chroma, dim the display and change my resolution from 4k to 1080p. Otherwise, the ultrabook is awesome. If I can alleviate the power shortage I will keep the laptop indefinitely. I am looking for a quick-charging power bank similar to, if not better than the Razer Power Bank. Would you purchase the Cygnett power bank listed over the Razer Power Bank? Are there alternatives that you could recommend? What are all of my options, regardless of price, for a really good power bank? I am looking for substitutes, cheaper or more expensive, so long as they are functionally equivalent to, or better than the Razer Power Bank. For the record, the charger included with the Razer Stealth outputs 45W; 20V at 2.25 amps, and I am using this as a standard when searching for a power bank. https://www.cygnett.com/collections/power-banks/products/20-000mah-usb-c-power-bank-in-black https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-accessories/razer-power-bank

So I want a laptop and I want it to be somewhat discrete, you know like no overloading RGB or insane amount of red. But I want to be able to play games on it so here's my requirements: i7-7700 HQ something like that 16GB of RAM and at least a GTX 1070 and a 1080P screen I don't care for anything special with the screen THX in advance

Hello all! Recently I purchased a Cygnett ChargeUp Pro USB-C Power Bank to charge my laptop. I did so only after extensive research, and contacting Cygnett customer support to see if the Power Bank would work with my laptop first. As previously mentioned in my original thread, this Power Bank meets the charge speed requirements of 45W (20V, 2.25A), and of the three Power Banks that DO meet these requirements, this one provides the most mAh/$. Cygnett confirmed that their Power Bank will meet the charging requirement for my Razer Blade Stealth, at least on paper. Unfortunately, the Power Bank is not charging my laptop, and their customer support center is closed until Monday in Australia, and I am forced to seek assistance elsewhere. Here is the issue that I am experiencing with the Cygnett ChargeUp Pro. There seems to be an issue with device driver recognition. This isn’t an issue when I plug my laptop into the wall; the laptop just charges. I am using a Type C to Type C connector to connect my laptop to the Power Bank. My Power Delivery GrandStar charger powers my laptop just fine; it may not be an issue of Power Delivery tech compatibility. Power Delivery (PD) is a circuitry technology that, like Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0, identifies necessary Wattage to send to a connected device to prevent over-volting. When I plug in my Cygnett Power Bank to my laptop it is recognized as a USB device, not a charger. “USB Root Hub (USB 3.0)” pops up and is removable; I have the option to “eject this device”. Approximately 20 seconds later, the recognized USB device ejects itself. My Power Bank is fully charged. I even charged it with a Power Delivery charger. Here is a link to the Power Delivery charger that I purchased. Again, it charges both the laptop and the Power Bank. https://www.amazon.com/USB-Type-C-Wall-Charger-Grandstar/dp/B06XR9JBM8

So I am looking to buy a Razer Blade Stealth (Refurbished) and I have 2 choices :- 1) i7 6500u (Skylake) 8gb RAM 128gb SSD = $750 2) i5 7200i (kabylake) 8gb RAM 128gb SSD = $750 Which one to get?

Hello, I am looking to purchase a laptop in the 1000$ range and i was looking at these 2 Razer laptops. I was wondering if it would be best for my to get the blade 14 for the higher specs but buy it used or get the stealth and buy it new. I do want to do some light gaming which i know the stealth does not excel at but its very light weight gaming like Minecraft. If there are any other good specs and looking laptop feel free to link me http://www.ebay.com/itm/OB-Razer-Blade-Stealth-Touch-Screen-UHD-12-5-256GB-i7-6500U-8GB-3840-x-2160-/272353345496?epid=1869980366&hash=item3f69863fd8:g:EFUAAOSwQaJXQ6LH http://www.ebay.com/itm/222549418754

So after numerous budget changes and looking around for the last week, the Razor Blade Stealth, specifically the i7-8565U 1080p Matte display model with 16gb ram, 256gb SSD and the 25W MX150, seems to be an almost perfect laptop for me, as I'll be doing some light gaming, video editing and administrative work, and want a small portable package, plus the inclusion of thunderbolt 3 should help to future proof this, the only downside for me at least being the price. I'm able to pick this unit up for £1279 (~1560USD) which while I can afford, it's still more than I've ever paid for a laptop and probably is the maximum I'll be willing to pay, so before I bite the bullet I was hoping to see if anyone had some useful feedback on this laptop or can recommend anything better for less? I'll be buying off of Amazon to make use of their 30day no hassle returns as judging by reviews the QC on this laptop doesn't seem too good, also being in Europe I do get the 2 year warranty should anything go wrong after that. Thanks in advance!

Hey, i am looking into buying a razer blade Stealth for university this year, and I was wandering if I should go for the 4k touch version or the Matt 1080p version? Is there any drawback in batterie life? Any opinions welcome! Ben

Hey guys, This is my post on Razer Forum - decided to post it here also. https://insider.razer.com/index.php?threads/thunderbolt-3-usb-c-problems-rbs-8550u.50012/ --- So after over a week of very delayed emails and live chats with Razer, I have decided to post my issue here to see if the community can help or at least expose an issue to Razer that they may or may not be ignoring.I have had my laptop for just under a year now, and since it arrived I have had some very peculiar issues with the USB C port.When using a USB C / Thunderbolt dock with a mouse / kb and charger plugged in, my peripherals lose power every few seconds for a couple of seconds making it impossible to use. If the charger is not plugged in, it is perfectly fine.Like I have said above, I have been speaking with Razer about this for a couple of weeks and their only answer was to buy a Razer Core..Below are the troubleshooting steps I have completed.- BIOS and Firmware updates - Windows Updates - System recovery of the device (through the Razer recovery partition) - Multiple docks (linked below)https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B071YTQBXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.harveynorman.com.au/alogic-usb-c-portable-super-dock-with-power-delivery-black.htmlhttps://www.amazon.com/XtremeMac-Promate-Type-C-MicroSD-Ethernet/dp/B06X9LQ9ND ^^ These all had the same issue with the peripheralshttps://www.lenovo.com/au/en/access...s-usb/TP-Hybrid-USB-C-Dock- -ANZ/p/40AF0135AU (this one flat out didn't work at all) - A different 65W charger from a Lenovo device Now, this device has previously been sent off the Sydney (I live in Perth AUS) and took about a month to get back to me, the issue was not fixed even after the team in Sydney replaced the motherboard.On the RBS product pafe, they advertise the following about the Thunderbolt 3 port/"Meet Thunderbolt™ 3. It's twice as fast asThunderbolt 2 and more versatile to boot.It connects to any display, port or peripheraldevice — allowing you to add moreutility to your laptop with zero hassle"One would assume that this is false advertising as the Razer support team have told me the complete opposite about this statement (as shown at the bottom of this post)I have been advised against using third party docks as they won't work with the RBS (which I think is rubbish).Anyways, have a read of the chat history and if you have any issues with your blade, good look getting any decent support.Edit: Just realised I am unable to attach a txt file to the post for some reason so have just pasted the chat below.--- (this did get escalated, however, I did not hear from the escalation team for 2 and a half days)

Dear all I am thinking about buying the new razer blade stealth and a tazer core x. The mix between portability and full power at home seems appealing. What graphics card would you use in the core x, keeping in mind that the CPU will bottleneck the GPU at some point using TB3? thanks for your answers

Whats up guys, new to the LTT forums... just looking for some use-based recommendations. Heres the deal, Ive always had 17" gaming laptops for my job, always, and finally I've decided my backs had enough traveling with them, so I ordered a 2017 Razer Blade 14" Whats a good bag that will protek, but ultimately will be a nice sleek change from massive 4 zipper bags I was having to shop for my 17" Bonus points for cross body strap options.

Hello All, i need to enable virtualization on my stealth to get use the ability of WSL2 (windows Subsystem Linux), i cant see anything in the bios and i have searched the Web for answers. has anyone got a Razer blade Stealth and know what i need to enable in windows or where to find the virtualization option in the bios. Any help would be massively appreciated, regards, Jacrispy45

Hey guys I just git my Razer Blade Stealth and eomehow there is a black stripe on the bottom of the screen because the resolution is not calibrated correctly. Can someone tell me how to do this? I can not change it in the options. It's grey and in (recommended) resolution already. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this computer? I’m thinking about getting this one, but I’d be willing to look for another if someone has a suggestion. Budget 1,400-2,000 USD.