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Showing results for tags 'splitter'.
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Hello Linus Techies, I've recently added a new Smart monitor into my PC set up which I can watch content on and doesn't need to be connected to my PC and drawing resources from my main display. But I don't want to use the built in speakers. I want to link the smart monitor into my PC so the audio is routed to whichever output my PC has selected (headphones or speaker). I'm using a Sonos soundbar which connects to the Digital audio out on the back of my motherboard as I don't have an ARC rated HDMI on the motherboard. I tried using a splitter on this and connecting the smart monitor the same way, this didn't work. I also tried a USB - C to 3.5mm Jack cable into the back of the motherboard which also didn't work. Does anyone know of a way I can achieve this? Thank you, Joseph
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Here is the link: https://www.conceptronic.net/conceptronic_en/emrick10g-pcie-x1-to-4-pcie-x1-expansion-kit-riser-card-110014307101 For those of you who are too lazy to open it, it takes one PCIe lane and splits it into two, and is a “packet switch host controller”. I would love to know more about it, and if it is real would love to know where to get one to mess around with. -
HDMI splitter/switch or Display Port to HDMI converter for TV?
Gpizzle135 posted a topic in Displays
I'm currently looking at connecting a tv to my computer which already setup for dual monitors, for when I want to play some racing games with my basic sim setup. And I can't decide if I want to run a display port/HDMI converter off of my RTX 4080 to the tv or get a 1x2 splitter than I change which output is displayed. For cost effectiveness the converter is probably best, but I feel like the splitter/switch is a more elegant solution as I won't have a need for either of my dual monitors. PS: My main display is connected via Display Port, and second monitor is occupying the single hdmi port on the rtx 4080 -
Hi everyone. I've started working on a college project, which would be my end of degree (from here, it'll be called EOD) project. In my college, this is made with a proffesor, which is my EOD tutor, and then it's presented to a jury for them to see if it's a good project. We're working with an FPGA (an ICEBreaker board) that is used as a SoC for robotic applications. My EOD consists on designing and printing a modular robotic system for the FPGA to be implemented. these FPGAs are also part of a project for a subject of my degree, so it comes quite handy. One of the challlenges there is with the FPGA is that in order to get it reprogrammed you'd have to disconect it from the power input of the robot and get it connected to the computer, program it, reconnect it to the power input, and then rinse and repeat. This is a challenge to overcome. from what I've seen about the board, it's connected via a micro USB cable, which then gets to a USB 2.0 to connect to the computer. So, my idea to face this challenge is this: split the USB cable, so the Vcc and the gnd go to the power source's USB, and the gnd, d+ and d- go to the computer's. that way, it would keep powered on and get reprogrammed whenever I need. Would this be viable? TIA -
If I were to connect my ps5 to an hdmi splitter and from that connect the splitter to my tv and my monitor, would I be able to play my ps5 on my monitor while my wife watches tv. Mind you it is a smart tv with all the apps on it so she wouldn’t be watching say Netflix from the ps5 but from the tv app itself. Or would I need something else to do this?
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I recently bought a JBL Quantum 100 to use on my PC for gaming and for discord, I do not seem to make the microphone work using the splitter and plugging them into the correct pink/green ports. I have tried to plug them in on both front and back headphone combos on my PC and it still doesn't work. I have tried using another splitter to no avail. Is there a way I can fix this?
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Hey peeps, so many of u may find this to be a dumb question. every brand out there has more or less, proprietary RGB lines. Naturally they go into a controller. Then it sucks up a usb2 header, sata power, plus usually a BS PWM header. Oh, right, typically a aRGB header too (or adapter depending on MOBO). uh, let’s clean up that mess? I’ve noticed multiple controllers, different brands, yada yada, all want their *own* app installed. Naturally this creates problems. NOT knocking any specific brand but, come on. Lian li for example has L connect. iCue, Corsair, aura sync for asus, dragon center for msi. Uhm, we have all been there, all these apps want to fight for RGB control so they conflict. ive noticed on a lot of my stuff itll typically come with an an adapter to connect directly to an aRGB header. Sweet! Well, buns, I only have 2 headers… oh right, get a splitter, pfft. question is, where can I find the adapter cables from X to aRGB? Is there one that is used most common across multiple manufacturers? I’m using a bysksyi (spelling) distro plate, alphacool gpu block, ekwb monoblock, so you can see the problem. better yet, why can’t I just take some wire strippers and splice on a aRGB? I notice the ground line (data? Whatever) of the 3 is striped or otherwise obvious. just wondering, cause I’m sure a lot of other folks out there are sick of having 5 controllers and five individual apps for each brand - all fighting for control. Yes an exaggeration, true none the less. any ideas? Possible “rigging” people have done to make RGB “easier”? thanks everyone!
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Hello! I recently finished a build inside an NZXT H210 and quickly realized there’s no header on my motherboard for the type C input from the case, there’s only one USB 3 header on the motherboard. My motherboard is a B550 Gigabyte Aorus Pro AX mini ITX, if that matters. My immediate solution was to get adapters, a Y splitter for the USB header on the motherboard and a USB 3 to USB 3.1 type C header. That way I can connect my cases usb 3 and have the type C usable. But the only Y splitter I found after searching on Amazon and Ebay was this one, which seems to not let you use both connections simultaneously and has pretty rough reviews. LINK -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CGL4K96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NDGRSQNGBGPSPK96X8DK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 My other idea was to use the USB 2 header on my motherboard with a 3.0 adapter so I can have my front USB usable albeit at lower speeds while plugging the USB C adapter directly into the USB 3 header. Here’s a link to the USB 2 to 3 header adapter I found. LINK - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZV1566/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1YSHFSVF022ZDJQNN1J6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Heres a link to the USB 3 to Type C header as well LINK - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Q28S1P5V5TBWJ70X2EPE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Would these be good solutions, or is there a more elegant way to handle this? If I ended up using a USB 2 adapter and USB C adapter would there be any drawbacks apart from speeds? Just wanting some input if this is a good idea or not or if I’m doing something I really shouldn’t be doing. Thanks ! -
Hey everyone! Been having an issue with the fans in the new system I have built. The motherboard (Gigabyte Z390 UD) has 3 fan header. One header has a single Noctua NF--P12 in the rear, the second has three NF--P12 s on a 3way fan splitter at the front. Lastly off the last header there are 2 NF-P14s up top. My issue is one of the top NF-P14s stops spinning up top after a minute or two and just sits and trys to spin while the other spins fine. It does spin when plugged into the other splitter at the front so the fan is good. I have tried two different fan splitters, am wondering if I am missing something with the amps on the motherboard or something along those lines
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I've built my PC some time ago but only now I realised that only my radiator fans react to changes I make in CAM. 3 exhaust fans are controlled by BIOS and I can't set them up as easily as I can in CAM. Z63 comes with two connectors for fans and one for RGB so you can use it as a mini-fan/RGB hub. RGB is not a problem since you can daisy-chain it. But can I plug those other 3 fans to Z63 with a splitter or smth? Or do I need to but a controller to control it with CAM?
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I just "completed" my new build (using an R9 390 in place of a new GPU I'll get when stock is better), and I currently have 2 fans without power. Long story short, it's because the RGB controller came with a 1 to 5 PWM fan splitter cable, which covers 5 of my 7 fans, but the other 2 fans plug into the controller's RGB (it has 7 slots), and that cable forks about 1 inch to fan power cables - so 2 fans are plugged in to RGB, but not have power. That said, I need to get power to 2 more fans. Since I have 7 fans (3 front, 3 top, 1 rear), I'm wondering what the best way to wire them is. I'm debating between these configurations: Option 1 HEADER_1 - 3 front (intake) HEADER_2 - 1 rear (exhaust) HEADER_3 - 3 top (exhaust) Option 2 HEADER_1 - 3 front (intake) HEADER_2 - 1 rear + 3 top (exhaust) Since I have 3 intake, and 4 exhaust, I believe I want to be able to control the intake and exhaust speeds separately, to help balance the overall pressure (I'm new to this, just keep reading about it). I'm also (perhaps incorrectly) under the assumption that the 1 REAR fan is more potent with it's position, and might want to be separate entirely, so that one can be ramped up a tad more? Either way, I currently only have a 1 to 5 splitter on the HUB, so I'll either need to buy a 1 to 3 extension / splitter for the top 3 (leaving the front 3 in the hub), and a single extension for the rear (Option 1), or move the 1 rear and top 3 fans to the current 1 to 5 HUB, and buy a 1 to 3 extension / splitter for the front 3 (OPTION 2). These two options make the most sense to me, but there could be a better way! Any help greatly appreciated, especially, especially links to specific cables!
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Hi all, I have a question. In my brain it should work, but idk if the cables would handle it. We have 2 phones with an inconvenient place for power outlet, that's why we use laptop chargers. We both have 65W charging phones. My idea is a 130W Dell usb-c laptop charger with a splitter on the end to charge both phones. Would this work? Thanks in advance!
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Hey Linus group, am unable to find an RJ45 splitter that simply doubles the ports from your router. Please point to the techquickie video on this topic in case I missed. My goal is to take one active Ethernet port and use it for two devices that consume internet. Please post products in Amazon that does this. TIA
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This is a weird one. I've got a mac mini M1 that's connected to two displays. One goes to an extender, which goes to a splitter, which goes to two Panasonic DW740 projectors. The HDMI goes straight to the extender, while thunderbolt is used to go to a second monitor. So here's the symptom: one projector presents the image green-shifted. Or, the other projector presents the image green-shifted. Almost always green shifted. Here's our solution: trial and error, we eventually just tried running through the thunderbolt dingle instead of HDMI, and now the projectors are presenting whatever image correctly. Now the other monitor is occasionally presenting wonky colors. So the problem has to be the mac mini's HDMI. So here's my question: how can a signal coming from HDMI to two projectors over a splitter, fail to display the same thing on both projectors? I would expect both projectors to display the same wonky image - not one to display correctly and the other incorrectly. We don't really need help, the issue is resolved - both projectors are now displaying properly. I'm just wondering if anyone knows why this kind of thing would happen?
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I'm planning to buy a fan splitter so i can add or replace the daisy chained rgb molex type fans that came with my case. My question: is it safe to use this splitter hooked to a single motherboard header? I don't know the amp output of the header (msi b450 mortar max) I looked up the motherboard's website but can't find detail about the amperage. So, using 3 or 4 fans connected to a splitter that is connected to the header of the motherboard is safe? Also, if used a non-rgb fan do i need a four-pins splitter? Thank u in advance
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Hello! I have been struggling with storage space issues for a long time (especially since I use my PC for work, video rendering, gaming and 3D modeling) and I want to do a few upgrades. I'm currently using 1 SSD for Windows/data and 1 HDD (7200 rpm) for data/games. The plan is adding 2 extra SSDs, but I have the following questions: -Will I have power issues for running 3 SSDs + 1 HDD in my system? My PSU is a Corsair RM750i. -Is it too risky to use the same PSU Sata cable to connect all those drives? I'm using a PCI-E 6Pin "1 to 4 Sata cable" that comes with the PSU, but I heard they can catch fire easily if there's a lot of stuff connected to them. -Is it ok to combine a "1 Male to 2 Female Y splitter" with the previously mentioned "1 to 4 Sata cable" to connect two SSDs together? My computer case's lighting is taking up one of those four Sata connectors, so I don't have enough to connect all the hard drives. Thank you in advance. -
So, I understand what bifurcation is but I'm new to making it physically work. I've got an X399 Phantom Gaming 6 board, there are 3 physical X16 slots that can be set to either x16 or x4x4x4. I've got a potential 64 lanes, and I'm using maybe 36, I don't think I'll 'cap' that out if I try. However in my voyage across google I've learned that while you can technically just use a 4-way riser/splitter performance will be poor unless the riser/splitter supports bifurcation via some extra component that remained nebulous the entire time I was researching the process. Have any of you done this? At this point I'm just trying to find a riser/splitter that does it, Or information that will help me determine if said riser/splitter is viable purchase.
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I bought a Phanteks universal fan controller to facilitate the 4 fans that I have in my case because my motherboard only has one fan header. I have a total of 4 3-pin fans (3 came with the case) but the controller only has 3 slots for 3 pin fans so I was wondering if I would be able to use a splitter on one of the fan hub ports or would it just be better and easier to get a 4 pin fan?
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help [SOLVED] Will this work? (12VDC powering fans)
abcdefghivjklmnop posted a topic in Cases and Mods
Hi there, I am looking into cooling my laptop by like this custom casing in which the back of the laptop is taken off, But theres one problem. I have read somewhere(i forgot) where the guy was trying to run multiple fans off multiple usbs. While this is a worthy idea. The powered usb hub will cost alot if I want the fans to be running correctly. So I have read more on some forums that guys used 100-240V dc powersupplys to power the fans, all they said was about the power supply units but nothing about how to link the fan to the dc output thingy. So i went researching more and found the 2.1mm DC Jack Adaptor that puts the output pin thingy your supposed to shove in somewhere into female dc (+ and -) While that should work. Theres also splitters that you connect the output pin thingy into multiple of those output things. Ok enough of talking heres my plan: Get a 12V 2A powersupply thing ( https://www.ebay.ie/itm/AC110-220V-Power-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-LED-Strip-2A-3A-5A-8A-DC-5V-12V-24V/272324616319?hash=item3f67cfe07f:m:m2a-sdFK6dvz6aPa_WrlxQw ) Get the 2.1mm DC Jack Adaptor ( https://www.ebay.ie/itm/12V-DC-Female-Male-Power-Balun-Connector-Adapter-Plug-Jack-Socket-For-CCTV-Cable/292073675404?hash=item4400f29a8c:m:mLq5oCZ_-NDrbHBMx9Um4ig ) Get splitters for that 12V 2A output thingy. ( https://www.ebay.ie/itm/DC-Power-Jack-5-5x2-1mm-Splitter-Adapter-Cable-for-Security-CCTV-Camera/184256147582?hash=item2ae685b07e:m:mP3e8g-HjT1JFYmVM9NWwNg ) Cut off the ends of all of the fans and put them into that 2.1mm dc jack adapter (1 fan = 1 dc adapter) Turn the thing on lol and see if nothing fries up. My questions: Will the 12V 2A psu be enough for it? Is the psu safe? Will the splitter work? Is the jack adapter legit and will work for me? Will the 12V fans work at 12V or it will run lower/higher? Will this idea work? Ok here are some notes, My laptop runs at idle at 40db which is silent for me but when im gaming that thing goes up to turbine loudness. (Its a near new laptop too so no point in cleaning it since no dust has gotten in), and at night if I want to play or video edit the laptop would go too loud for my liking and I would like to make it quite again. I have experimented on connecting the fan via usb by beheading it and connecting it to the laptop but since usb is running only at 5v, the fan speeds are lower which means I'd have to get higher rpm fans that will just give me better airflow but the max rpm i could get from those fans was 700=850rpm by just calculating. (Example: 12v/5v = 2.4, 2000rpm/2.4 = 833.3 rpm. at 5v). So at 12V it would be much more better for me to run the fans in. Also I do not want to usb a cooling pad because those are useless,louder,more expensive. Thankyou for reading this whole thing and hopefully you guys can give me advice on this strange Idea I have. -
Hi, I'm planning on buying 2 Silentwings 3 for the front of my case. It has only a 140mm Pure wings 2. The two Silentwings will go on the front slots for intake, but I'd like to use the 140mm to put it on the top-back of my case to give a little help to my 120mm Pure wings for exhaust. But I only have 4 headers, two at the bottom of the mobo, two at the top, one that's for my CPU fan. Looking at Be Quiet specs: -the 120mm draws 2.4 watts and 0.12 amps with the safety current at 0.20 amps -the 140mm draws 3.6 watts and 0.30 amps with the safety current also at 0.30 amps Both together draw less than one amp so that's within the header current limit. But, the 140mm draws .3 amps and that's already higher than the safety current of the 120mm that's .2 amps. Will that work anyways? Is there a risk of damaging one or both of the fans? Thanks for the help -
Hi, So I recently moved my rig into a corsair 280x with the included 2 rgb fans at the front and I am kind of bottle necked by only having 2 system fan headers on my motherboard. I have 2*3 pin fans from my old fractal case I would like to reuse in the case (trying to save some money, if I had the $ I'd get 2* identical fans). I was thinking To install them both on the bottom, below my GPU as an exhaust (using a micro atx board so the GPU fans are facing down with ~3 inches of clearance form the bottom of the case) but I thought I would consult this forum first. Additional info: I have 240mm of space at the top of the case as well. would really appreciate some help with what I can buy to power the 2 existing fans and the 2 I would like add, thanks!
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I’m looking into cinematography with my iPhone Pro Max. The Beastcage setup looks absolutely fabulous, but I want to be able to use my iPhone with a Røde SC6-L Mobile interface connect over Lightning made for iPhone while being able to keep my iPhone charged with a battery bank. Is there a lighting -> dual lighting splitter that would support this? If not this way, is there another option? BeastGrip is the site I’m going to gather most of my Cinema and photography gear from.
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Several months back a buddy of mine gave me a couple of monitors. One of which was an HP w2338h 23 inch 1080p monitor, for free mind you! It worked flawlessly for a couple of months, until I tried to use an old rocketfish hdmi splitter on it. After plugging this inglorious little bastard in to my monitor, things were never again so great. Now the monitor has an odd little quirk where my raspberry pi can display fine over HDMI, but my PC and PS4 are an absolute no go. What's more is that this same issue occurs on another monitor that the splitter was used on. I've tried other HDMI cables, no luck. Just want my monitors to work again. Hoping I'm overlooking something here
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Hello, I'm having a problem with an HDMI splitter I just bought. The splitter is a CSL 1 in 2 out HDMI splitter. My setup is as follows; I have a PC which sends an HDMI signal to a splitter which then splits the signal to a monitor and an Avermedia Live Gamer Extreme Capture Card which then sends the recorded signal to my laptop. The problem is that if I connect the capture card first to the splitter, the PC recognises the capture card and therefore the sound starts playing... but then nothing shows up on the monitor not even the video. This does not happen if I connect the monitor first but then suddenly I don't have audio passing through my capture card. The monitor only has a DVI port so I had to buy a cheap HDMI to DVI adapter. I'm using an HDMI splitter rather than the HDMI passthrough of the capture card because the quality is much better. Help
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I just assembled a new computer with an Nvidia GTX 1060 and MSI h110 gaming motherboard i occasionally test and use many other OS other than windows eg: Porteus,Phoenix O.S.,Ubuntu gnome,Remix OS etc but i have found out that apart from windows 10 no other os supports this graphics card as they fail to boot but when i switch to integrated graphics in my Bios it works perfectly thus this always involves me unplugging the HDMI from my graphic card port and plugging it to my motherboard port thus overtime it might spoil the plug and also i don't want the hassel to plug and unplug everytime i came accross this problem. I recently came accross this HDMI 1 to Dual 2 Adapter Cable and was wondering if it would work attaching one to the graphics card and other to the motherboard HDMI and since only one of them will give signal at a time there would be no conflict any help or suggestion would be appriciated........ http://www.amazon.in/REDGO-Splitter-Adapter-Converter-Support/dp/B01GWP4H0K?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C977SS1FI25L&coliid=I2Z8NJM647LHKB&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl http://www.amazon.in/Magideal-Adapter-Cable-Female-Splitter/dp/B01L96C092?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C977SS1FI25L&coliid=I21SF455TQR9U7&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl
