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Hello, I am at my wits end with this. I've bought 4 different NICs now to try and get this to work. But I still can't get Windows 10 to recognize the latest one. I have a second hand X550-AT2 card that I got off ebay. The seller assured me it was working previously before selling it. But I am getting nothing with it plugged in. System: Windows 10 Home Build 19045.4170 Version: 22H2 CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X Mobo: MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK using the 2nd PCIe slot that is pinned for a 4x card I have the card installed but network connections or device manager show up with nothing. I tried using a Linux OS on a USB drive to see if even Linux would be able to see the card. But it couldn't see the card either. Please any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Hello, decided to buy new ram for myself for Christmas (G.Skill DDR4 Aegis 32GB kit (2x16GB) 3000MHz CL16) and after installing it to my motherboard (ASROCK H470M-HDV) the PC wont boot up, LEDs and everything turns on but monitor wont display anything, says no HDMI input detected. If I go back to my old RAM the pc works fine but when I go back to the new one again it doesn't work. Any help appreciated!

Alright, so as the title says I updated my BIOS on my Asus X470-Prime Pro in the bios menu, not in windows, and now that its been updated from v4018 to v6210 it seems like either my bios settings have been wiped or somehow the BIOS doesn't support my install of windows. Things I've done are, change the boot priority and set any of my extra drives to "disabled". That has resulted in a different message, instead of windows boot manager coming up, now it says select a proper drive and restart. Which then lead me to thinking maybe the NVMe SSD somehow died during the BIOS update. So I took it out and plugged it into another computer I have and sure enough, there where all my files including the one that windows boot manager said was "missing or corrupt". So now I am at the point of needing someone who knows what they're doing to help me figure this BS out. Let me know if there is more information I can provide to help you help me! TIA

I just installed a new 870 EVO SSD but it is not showing up in the connected devices and drives in the windows file explorer. I installed the Samsung Magician software and it can detect the drive but that is the only place I am able to see that the drive is being detected. I am not the most computer savvy person but I thought I could at least handle installing a SATA SSD but I guess I need help, so any advice would be much appreciated.

I have an rtx 3070, ryzen 7 5800x, 32gb ddr4 3600, 64 bit operating system, windows 11 850w power supply and a rog strix b550-a motherboard I've updated to the newest driver and tried old ones nothing is working, it's not on power save mode I've spent days reading everything I could find that might help and nothing has and running 3dmark my score was 12k below average any tips would be appreciated I'm new to this

Hi everyone, so here is the situation - I am working from home and I have a working laptop (lenovo t490s)+ my PC + U2722D and U2722DE monitors. The wiring is as follows: PC -> U2722DE with DP -> U2722DE to U2722D with DP again - this works perfectly, like a charm Laptop -> U2722DE with USB-C (so that I can both use it as a display and charge laptop with it) AND Laptop -> U2722D with HDMI The whole point is so that I can switch my inputs on the monitors and go to DP (on both) so that I can use with PC and go to USB-C on one and HDMI on the other so I can use with laptop without having to remove any cables. Now this is where things get tricky. Initially I was setting up only the laptop and everything worked great. I hooked up the DP cables and now my U2722D is refusing to connect to the laptop via HDMI (says no signal). I tried everything. I swear I tried everything - removing DP cables, removing PC entirely from the monitors - nothing the damn HDMI cable still says no signal (and it's brand new so I know it works). The even weirder thing - when I hook everything back up and use my laptop the U2722D is showing picture through the DP cable (still daisy chained to the U2722DE) but in some weird stupid resolution 2048 smth and 30fps (obviously unusable). I am relatively tech-savvy (don't want to boast just mentioning that I tried the basics and absolutely everything from the Display settings) and I tried pretty much everything and at this point I am literally out of any guesses.. Hope you guys can help me out.

I haven't really used this platform before, so I apologies of this is off topic. I have a LOGITECH G-203 LightSync Gaming Mouse. For a few months now, my mouse wheel hasn't been scrolling properly. When scrolling up and down, the mouse wouldn't always scroll in the correct direction. For example, if I scroll up once, my mouse would scroll down twice then up once, etc. I've tried cleaning the mouse (from the outside, I haven't dared opening it yet), but that hasn't really helped. I'm not sure what possible solutions I have, as returning the mouse isn't an option for me unfortunately due to logistical reasons. Everything else about the mouse is working fine. It's moving fine, the mouse wheel doesn't feel jagged or stuck in any sense, feels very normal. Mouse cable is in tact, no cuts, looks like it's in good shape. Front and side buttons are fine. The mouse wheel is just rebelling. I'm assuming there is some sort of sensor or trigger that's been misplaced from all the movement (I do very quick and wide movements with my mouse) or broken or it got dirty after time (A lot of dust where I live) so it's not properly registering, but if that's the case, I still don't know what I can do. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. EDIT: SOLVED! Someone mentioned a reddit thread below that suggests you rub your mouse wheel "vigorously" on a carpet. While it is alarming how someone figured out that this is a solution, it did work. So I used a normal mousepad instead of a rug. And I didn't really do it vigorously, I did did around 5 or 6 quick ups and downs along my mouse pad, I didn't press hard on my mouse, just enough so the mouse wheel can roll well with the movement, in terms of speed, it was rather quick, best comparison I can make is when you try to scrub dirt off you body. It worked for me, I hope someone finds this helpful.

Budget is 1400USD Country: USA BABY Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming,video editing,music production,streaming,and photoshop and etc Other details (This is my first time building a pc.) I want to know if you are 85-90% sure that this will be a good build. If theres one small thing about my build i might not really want to hear i cause i took to long researching this EPIC BUILD OF EPICNESS - AMD Ryzen 7 7700, Radeon RX 6800 XT, Deepcool CG560 ATX Mid Tower - PCPartPicker

I just built a new computer and I don't know why the ram is showing as 1333 mHz and not the spec of 3200 mHz MB: Gigabyte B450M D3SH CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X GPU: RX 580 8GB Ram : 16 GB (8x2) Corsair vengance LPX 3200mHz) any advice would be very helpful, I don't know if this is a BIOS flash issue or driver. Thank you David

Went to turn on my PC, and I hit the reset button on accident and now it won’t turn on at all. I get nothing. The motherboard RGB light is on, as well as my mouse. Nothing else works. Not sure if my motherboard or PSU is dead or what it could be. Any help would be very much appreciated. ASUS Prime Z-790-a Corsair 1000 Watt PSU Edit: Solved! The first reply in this thread told me to clear my CMOS with the button on my MB and I did just that with nothing changing. I don’t know much about CMOS and how it works so I removed the CMOS battery for 5 min after I read about that online and that managed to fix it!

I recently purchased a 512 gig Inland Professional Sata SSD from Microcenter. It's worked perfectly until yesterday. I was playing a game and all of a sudden part of the world assets froze, I had task manager open for unrelated reasons and when I looked, the SSD was sitting at 100% usage, but nothing was being read from it or written to it. I have scoured countless forums and tried every fix I can. The drive is configured in AHCI. I have a 970 Evo m.2 stick for my boot drive and some old HDD's that I pulled out of laptops for spare storage but that's the only other stuff in the system. Could the other HDD's be playing nasty with my SSD? This is a custom built machine but when it comes to storage I'm pretty well clueless. SYSTEM SPECS: AMD Ryzen 2700x, Nvidia Geforce 1660 OC, 16gigs Trident Z Neo 2x8 @3200Mhz, a gold rated 650w EVGA Supernova, and an ASRock B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mobo. If there's any other info you want, just ask!

So, I've been getting higher temps on my R5 3600 because the cpu heatsync fan (SilentiumPC Spartan 4 MAX EVO ARGB cooler from a local seller) was mounted towards the rear case fan rather than the front fans. I want to put it on the other side of the heatsync, but before doing that, I have a question: I wanna rotate the whole heatsync 180°, reapply thermal paste and all that, because last time the fan itself was a pain in the arse to install and I really don't feel like repeating the whole process again and I feel like it would be easier to rotate the whole cooler. Would this hurt temps in any way?

I had a random hard reset happening the last couple of weeks. I tried to monitor both power and heat and couldn't see any issues with either before it would suddenly do a hard reset. Sometimes it would reset almost immediately after booting again and other times it would work without issues for days. Some times I was gaming, other times I was just watching youtube or surfing the net. Yesterday I exchanged the PSU with a new (same as old) and removed a power strip I thought might have had some issues and it worked flawlessly until this morning and now it won't boot at all. I sometimes get the "Automatic Windows Repair" text but after a few seconds it resets again. I've tried booting from USB, both windows 10 and Ubuntu, but after hitting "Boot from live usb" it just resets again. So it seems the bootloader runs, but it's having trouble handling over to OS startup of some kind. Have tried resetting CMOS and updating to latest BIOS. I have recently installed a new nvme M.2 unit and the issues started after (not immediately right after), but the monitoring software for the device reported no errors as far as I can tell. Windows 10 64 bit Asus ROG stric x570-f with latest BIOS AMD 3700X 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 SDRAM DIMM 288-pin Gainward GeForce RTX 3070 Phoenix GS Samsung 960 EVO 250GB M.2 PCIe SSD (BOOT device) WD Black SN850 NVMe SSD (new storage drive) 2 x Samsung SSD 840 EVO 250GB BK OEM (Storage) Corsair RMX750 (750W 80+ gold)

I think this was once present but can't find it now. Essentially if I press right arrow on a folder it expands and shows the whole content of that folder(recursively).

Could someone please help me with this? When I set my RAM clock speed to its intended 3600Mhz through the BIOS, my system just won't post and I have to clear my CMOS to get it to post again. Motherboard: ASRock B450M Steel Legend. CPU: AMD Ryzen 3600x. Memory: 4x Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 8Gb 3600MH. Graphics card: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1050 Ti. Thank you.

Today while building my new computer I ran into an issues of not knowing where to plug in this Tiny AIO plug with 3 pin plug(Photo attached). I have looked all over and i do not see anything on my GIGABYTE B550 AORUS PRO V2 (AMD Ryzen 5000/ B550/ ATX/ PCIe4.0/ DDR4/ Realtek ALC1220-VB/ Front & Rear USB Type-C/ RGB Fusion 2.0/ Dual M.2 Thermal Guard/ Gaming Motherboard) to support my plug for the Cooler Master Master Liquid ML360 Mirror ARGB Close-Loop AIO CPU Liquid Cooler, Mirror ARGB Pump, 360mm Radiator. i have tried to watch some build guides for the two components but they never line up with what i have the videos normally are some other version of the cooler master AIO's.

I signed up for LTT Folding month again this year and made the terrible decision that I should update my GPU Driver before the event. I have spent the last two or so weeks trying to install any GPU driver to work on my computer to no avail. A shortened list of what I have attempted so far: I updated everything I could find (MoBo bios and chipset drivers and such), I reset windows using the built in resetter and selecting to not keep any files, I then updated windows all the way reinstalled the chipset drivers and then tried to install the WHQL drivers from AMD.com they seem to install fine then, after the last restart, the computer will freeze up after a couple of seconds and the amd bug reporter will pop up saying the driver has crashed. At that point my second screen will turn off and the primary screen will be running at a reported 64Hz. I have tried some things from here to solve the situation but so far nothing has worked. Any help yall can give so that I can install the drivers is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Lucid Specs: R9 5900x | Radeon VII | Crucial Ballistics 3200 MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | WD Black SN850 2TB | Gigabyte B550 Vision D | EVGA Supernove 850W | Samsung Odyssey G7 & Samsung M7 | Windows 10 Pro

Hi guys, As the title says, my pc only boots up after I take my GPU out and put it in again. I’ve recently changed my motherboard (from TUF gaming to MSI B550-A Pro) and ever since I’ve had this issue. After I’ve reinstalled the GPU my pc works fine and I can reboot and it boots up normally. But at night I turn the power off(on the rear end of the case) and the next day I have to reinstall the GPU again. It’s probably not related but I had a similar issue with my nvme on my old motherboard, where it would sometimes not show up but after reinstalling it it would show up in bios and windows until I shut down my pc. But this issue has persisted since my new mobo so I’ll just get a new one. please help me, I can’t find anything about this issue on the internet.

So, I bought a new SSD to make my old girl feel snappy again. 120gb boot drive is fine for now as i plan on expanding to a 500gb SSD for later. The entire time I was using mg HDD, this issue never occurred. After installing windows, booting up to the desktop. Something felt off. The colors were off and it looked like it was sharpened like crazy. I thought this was just an issue with my drivers not being installed, so i didn't think much about it, but it was strange because this color issue only occurs when my AMD drivers are installed and I haven't changed to full RGB color yet. After installing my AMD Drivers first, the color issue wasn't solved, changed it to Full RGB, and it still wasn't solved. Additionally, my recommended resolution according to windows is 720p, not 1080p. Additionally, my screen was over scanned, It isn't my monitor, because when I put the monitor aspect ratio to 4:3, the "over scan" is not rendered at all. I know Usually after installing my GPU drivers this would be fixed, but turns out it isn't. So I kept looking for solutions. One thing that's strange is that when i change my screen's resolution, windows insists my refresh rate must be interlaced. I can switch to non-interlaced refresh rates fine enough, but switching between 1080p and 720p will default it to an interlaced resolution/refresh rate. looked at device manager for any drivers acting up. i saw my PCIe drivers were not installed, so I installed them, they work, but it still hasn't fixed itself. I also installed the latest drivers for my CPU, and nothing. I'm at a total loss for what to do.my mouse still goes past the overscan, so I guess its still there, just not rendered. This was not an issue when I was using my Hard drive, everything worked completely fine. edit: I've messed with my monitor settings as well. It was the exact same settings compared to how it was when i was on my HDD Specs: XFX RX570 i5-3330k 3.Hz 2x8 DDR3 Hyper X Windows 10 Home (My last installation of windows was Windows 10 Pro, maybe thats an issue?)

Need some advice. I just built a new system with the below specs. CPU: 5600x Mobo: Gigabyte b550i Aorus Pro Ax SSD: 1TB Intel 665p RAM: 2x 8Gb Ballistix 3600 MHz (BL2K8G36C16U4B)/ 2x 8GB Trident Z RGB 3600 (F4-3600C18D-16GTZRX) (I've tried a whole bunch of different memory, actually) PSU: Corsair SF750 GPU: EVGA 3060ti xc Case: Velka 7, aka 'The Toaster Oven' Sadly, the new build would randomly crash and restart with the dreaded "Kernel-Power Event 41, Bug Code 0". After a bunch of testing, I narrowed it down to XMP. Regardless of which of the three Gigabyte approved Ram Kits I use, enabling xmp will cause this error. And before you ask, prior to deciding XMP was the culprit I tried 1.) New PSU 2.) Different GPU 3.) Different CPU 4.) Different RAM 5.) DDU uninstall and re-install of GPU Drivers 6.) New BIOS 7.) Disabling Fast Boot and other Windows settings 8.) Clean windows install. 9.) Thinking REALLY positive thoughts. 10.) Building outside of the "hotbox" case in case HWinfo wasn't catching a weird heat spike. I'm pretty confident at this point, XMP is my issue. So, now that I know that, what should I do? Would a mobo swap solve this? Manually doing the memory timings? Some other bit of tech wizardry that I don't know of? Alternately, how much of a performance hit am I taking NOT enabling xmp? Sorry for the wall of text. ANY advices is very appreciated. -Ben

I finished building my computer yesterday and starting experiencing issues with it as soon as I begun installing windows 10 on it. The installer is slow and when, as an example, choosing language appears it take a minute to become responsive and then yet another minute to respond to clicking yes. Same with any part of the installation process. I encountered one error, oobekeyboard could not be installed. In windows itself it's the same, takes a minute to respond to things such as right clicking. It also shows 100% usage on my SSD when I manage to get task manager to show up. My hardware is. MSI mag b550 tomahawk Ryzen 5 5600x G.skill trident z red, CL 16 3200mhz. MSI gaming X 1070. Be quiet 700w PSU. 1 60gb SSD, 1 250gb SSD, 500gb HDD. The case is a fractal design define s. I carried over the GPU, storage and PSU from my old computer that ran windows 10 flawlessly on my i7 2600k. Installing any software in windows itself would be meaningless and take forever to complete. Should I unplug all but one storage unit? Clear cmos? Install a older bios than the motherboard arrived with? which I prepared on a usb stick before I dismantled my old computer, check the ram sticks?

Please forgive me I just will copy and paste my post from reddit <3 Hey reddit it has been a good minute, I have came across this issue that I have no clue how to fix nor fully what is causing it. Here I am coming home from work to boot up my pc only to notice when I type in my password my pc unlocks but it is just a black screen. So what I do is wait or even have to kick on explorer.exe myself. So here is where the fun part begins. Get it to load up all that good jazz I then proceed to open up cmd as admin and run sfc /scannow it freezes once it gets to 6% on the dot every time. Pc just locks up except my mouse but it has the spinny wheel locked on not even spinning, until, everything freezes. This is when I start to worry, I hurry up force shutdown my pc 3 times so I can boot it in safe mode. Got into safe mode not a single freeze I can do everything perfectly. Check the hard drive for errors, comes back as none or found, did sfc no integrity violations and I am now running an extended memory test. Please reddit I leave this in your hands what is going on here and how do I fix it? Pc specs: Ryzen 7 3600x Gtx 1050 Pny cs900? 1tb ssd Asus tuf gaming x570 plus wifi 700 gold evga power supply

EDIT: Solution at bottom of former post Hello everyone, kind of desperate here :( My laptop randomly cuts off when playing the battlefield series, V and 4 in these cases. It doesn't shut down completely nor does it restart. Audio and image just cut off, fans keep working, it looks like a BSOD but without the BSOD and doesnt restart or shut down until i force it to. I'm not much of an avid gamer but after a long week of rendering and photoshopping i like to get shot at, plus this indicates a deeper issue with my laptop, probably. Anyway, I couldn't replicate the same problem on any steam games, GTA V, rocket league, TF2 and the like, even star wars battlefront 2 doesn't crash which is on origin. Thought it was an overheating issue since HWinfo showed one of the cores reaching a 100 degrees, opened it up, repasted, (best thing i could find in the vicinity was arctic MX 4) temps dont go over 75 on full load, issue persists. Reinstalled graphics drivers, nothing, moved games to other HDD-s, same problem, reinstalled origin, no budge, event viewer only shows that the system didnt shut down properly and shows no other warnings nor errors. Completed extensive tests on different parts using HP uefi diagnostics, everything seems fine. benchmarked CPU and GPU, no problems. Only thing remaining would be the PSU, but again, GTA V doesnt crash the laptop and it uses much more resources than BF4, so it shouldnt be the power draw? oh and voltages are also fine. Problem can't be replicated during 3D rendering either. Too broke to buy a new laptop, VAT is insane in country. Help? Spec: HP omen 17 an014nm CPU: Intel 7700HQ GPU: GTX 1060 6GB (not the max-q version) RAM: 16GB Thank you EDIT: Turning off GPU-assisted scheduling in windows 10 settings completely resolved the problem. Performance unaffected. Latest update must have broken something.

So I have been looking around for some motherboards for this CPU and the one I have found everywhere is the B550-F and I was wondering would this be the best for my buck?

I want all the icons I marked to be inside the folder thingy