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Hello. Today i build my new bulid and when i put my motherboard in case i broke of some smd or filter on back side of motherboard. For now board and other components work fine. I will show some pictures and if someone know what it is and why please wrote. Thanks.

This one is a doozy, so get ready. I recently got myself a used CPU, motherboard, and RAM combo. An i5-9400f, MSI B365M Mortar, and some generic SK Hynix 2x8GB RAM sticks to be specific. I assembled everything with my GPU, and power supply, pressed the power button, and got nothing. No spinning fans on the PC or the power supply; even the EZ Debug lights wouldn't light up to indicate anything, Even after completely baring the motherboard of all components, I couldn't get any sign of life. After more troubleshooting I realized that the CPU had an SMD capacitor missing from the underside of it, but from what I've heard, that shouldn't be a massive issue and the PC should still post. After some fiddling around, I found a capacitor around my building area, but it wasn't from the CPU, but the motherboard, the underside of the chipset to be specific. I'm not sure about the importance of that capacitor, but there might be some link with the PC not responding at all. I tried some weird stuff like putting the CPU 24-pin in and then shorting the pins used to turn the PSU on, which finally gave some life to the PC (never shorted the power switch of the mobo) when all the fans and lights started running, but I still wouldn't get a display, and the EZ debug CPU LED would stay at a stable Red color. This behavior persists whenever I turn on the PSU, without touching the PC power switch. After that, I've tried everything including clearing and removing CMOS, reseating CPU, RAM, GPU, power cables to no update on the situation. The LED stays Red and I get no display. I have no clue what to do now, but my guess is that either the CPU is dead or the motherboard, the latter making more sense. I've attached some pictures of the broken capacitor spaces I mentioned. Any type of help would be appreciated.

Hello, Some years ago I bought an EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 for a super cheap price but the seller did not give me any information about its function. I plugged it in but I received no power from it so I stored it for some years. A few weeks ago I realized that I could just sell it for parts since the demand for high wattage power supplies was high. Instead I changed my mind and realized that I could just fix it instead and risk taking it apart. When I took it apart I saw what seemed to be a missing SMD capacitor. I looked at some pictures of what a working one would look like and it did have that capacitor that was missing on my broken PSU. This is the only thing that I found wrong of the PSU. The only problem is which capacitor I should get to solder it back on? Zoomed in Broken PSU PCB(Missing capacitor C303D) Zoomed Out Broken PSU PCB(Missing capacitor Middle Right of Image) Working PSU PCB(Flipped, C303D capacitor)

So i've got my hands on an absolutley filthy pc, cleand up all nice and shiny, last piece was the graphics card. While cleaning it with some IPA and a soft toothbrush one of the guys highlited in the picture just fell off, of course it immediately disappeared so there is no chance i will find it. Graphics card btw works fine, i just have no idea what the component is and where to get a replacement if it needs to be replaced. Looking for your help kind mates. Thanks.

Hi guys, I was cleaning my 1080 and installing new thermal pads when I accidently broke off a capacitor during disassembly. My question is, does anyone have experience resoldering SMD capacitors on GPUs and if so what solder do you use and what type of hot tweezers work best (required wattage)? In the picture I've attached you can see there is some copper showing so I think my best bet would be to remove the older solder with copper wicking, tin the copper contacts and then resolder the capacitor. Any advice for resoldering SMD components would be appreciated.

I just got finished with my EzFlow Oven. This hacked toaster oven should make SMD assembly 'soooo' much easier. Caution, High voltage is involved. I added QuickChips temperature profile to the firmware, works amazing with the low temperature paste QuickChip has available. I added heat resistant insulation to the internal gaps of the oven chaise, as well as the bottom of the unit to keep my desk cool. The internally mounted solid state relay also has a large heat-sink mounted to it for heat dissipation. (I should have took more pictures) Big public thanks to RocketScream for providing a super affordable solution. (Not Sponsored, I'm just weird) Pics of Build Pics of SMD Test Links to Parts 'n' Stuff

Link if its not- what's a good lower price hot air rework station for a beginning microsolderer?

Last night, I took my graphics card out to test my iGPU for fun and noticed what appear to be three blown SMD capacitors (I think that's what they are) on the GPU's PCB. This surprised me because I have not noticed any odd behavior with my graphics nor did I ever hear/smell a pop or burn in my computer. I've included a imgur album that shows a few picture of what I am talking about. You can see that one of them has a melted appearance on the side while the other two have a hole in the top. There is also some dark black or gray residue around these components as well. My system is air cooled and runs F@H 24/7 with about 7-8 hours of gaming per week. I've never seen my GPU get hotter than about 65 degrees C. I do not overclock my GPU; although, I have played with the overclock settings in the past (only for a few seconds at a time due to artifacting when overclocking, so I gave up). The only potential cause I can think of is that I used to get power surges quite often that would hard shut down my computers (they were on a surge protector though) until about a year ago when I finally got a UPS. My GPU is outside of warranty by about three months. So, my questions are these: 1. Is this a cause for concern? Could it cause damage to other components? I have not noticed any ill effects, and I have no idea how long it's been like this. 2. What could have caused this? 3. Has anyone here experienced this before? System specs: GPU: Asus DirectCUII GTX 760 (default clock speed [factory overclocked to 1072 MHz]) CPU: Core i7 3770K overclocked at 4.2 GHz with Hyper T4 heatsink PSU: ThermalTake SP-850M (older one seen here: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/06/16/thermaltake_smart_sp850m_850w_power_supply_review/) Mobo: Asus P8Z77-V LK PICTURES! http://imgur.com/a/J37Vh Thanks for any help you can provide! EDIT: Just to clarify, there are 3 of them that look damaged. In my Imgur album, the first four photos are of the same one. Make sure to take a look at the last two pics to see the other ones.

So I've been dealing with a glitchy volume knob on my G933s for a while. When you try to turn the volume knob in either direction, it tends to "freak out" and turn the volume up all the way. The only way to get the volume to go back down is to gently turn the volume knob down as slowly and delicately as possible. Though that didn't always work. My final solution was to do some surgery. Here is that experience: What I needed: Tiny philips screw driver (P1 I think it's called. A littler larger than any jewelers screw driver) Replacement incremental encoder EC05E1220401 (volume control) found here: Alps Alpine Incremental Encoder, Buy from Mouser Patience Taking apart the headset is pretty straight forward. After taking off the cushion (just slips off), it's just a few philips screws and the speaker will come right off. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE SPEAKER WIRE. The buttons and power switch plate will be loose so take that off next. Un-latch the ribbon cable to the button array board. Removing the volume knob and button array board can take some convincing but take your time, it'll come out. The speaker will travel with the board as you work with it so be aware of that. The volume knob will still be attached to the board. Once the board is out, just pop it off with a little tug. At this point, you're ready to replace the incremental encoder (fancy terms for volume control). Before you attempt to remove the encoder, put some aluminum tape against the nearest tactile switch (button) so you don't melt it (just a good precaution). I didn't take a picture of with the aluminum tape on so here's an example with some mediocre photo shop. To remove it, I put the board in a clamp (there are components on the bottom of the board directly beneath the encoder so don't let anything touch those while you're working). Then use just a touch of flux on each joint (you really don't need much) and a heat gun at about 400-450F (~220C). Since the solder is lead-free it requires that extra heat. KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING AROUND THE COMPONENT SO YOU DON'T MELT SOMETHING IMPORTANT. Once you start seeing the solder liquefying, grab the component with tweezers and give it just a light tug as you continue to heat. It should pop right off. TRY TO KEEP HEAT ON THE PADS AFTER YOU REMOVE IT. KEEP THE HEAT GUN MOVING. Grab a new encoder and while the solder is still liquid, place the new one on the board. It should set right in the solder without too much effort (there's also centering pegs on the component that sit into holes on the board to help straighten it out. Keep pressure on the component. Remove the heat and it should solidify nicely. If it doesn't, you can use a soldering iron and add just a bit of solder to each joint. Clean the entire area with isopropyl alcohol. Sit back and admire your handy work. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly but make sure the power switch is seated correctly. SMD/SMT components can be a bit intimidating and even soldering in general but I find it helpful to do a dry run and go through all the motions before proceeding to make sure you have a rhythm down. Just know that when I did it, I had an electronics manufacturing facility and some very knowledgeable people to work with (it's where I work. Though I don't solder stuff too often. I'm in charge of machine programming so I'm at a computer most of the time). Also when I did it, I used solder paste instead of flux and didn't keep the heat on through removal and replacement of the component so I was left with cold solder joints for one of my co-workers to touch up for me. Certainly not ideal but I'm lucky to be around these resources and people. You may not be so lucky. I'm sure some of you might ask "why don't you just replace the headset?". It should be fairly obvious as to why but for those of you that want more info on the subject, I largely value the experience. Trying new things and honing an existing "skill" is something that I really enjoy. If I have the knowledge, the ability, and time to repair this stuff, I'm going to. Also the headset was $200 when I bought it ?.

Could this come from a motherboard or gpu? The little white thing, it seems to be plastic.

Hi all, I have a damaged Zotac 1050 Ti OC (PN 288-1N454-200Z8) that got a few SMD components scraped off the back. I was able to fix some of those and resoldered parts that were just loose but I am still missing some capacitors. On my board they are C590, C513 C566 and two more unmarked ones. The ones with labes are 0805 and the ones without are 0603 sized. I marked the ones I am missing in the image. Can someone tell me a rough capacity of these components so I can replace them?

Alright I have this BitFenix Recon that my friend gave me, which is broken. Apparently he just plugged it into his pc and poof, smoke came out, he knows nothing so he gives it to me for keeping. I checked the damage and came to a conclusion that a SMD Resistor blew up, judging from the black char around it. 1) My main question is how can I determine this resistor value, the resistor is badly blown so I can't identify the number. 2) My second question is does anybody know where I can find the circuit diagram for BitFenix Recon or its PCB diagram. I tried to look in the internet but cant find anything. Or better yet if anybody have one lying around if they can bravely check the value of theirs so I can replace the correct value. The resistor is labelled R28 on mine. Another note: The resistor is behind a soldered LCD panel so I haven't had a chance to check that side of the PCB, I am currently busy so I will have to leave that until the weekends to desolder the panel and further assess the damage. Here are a couple of pics showing my problem: edit: Title.

Hi. Could you please help me with choosing the right power supply for my installation. I am getting a led strip with the following specs: I will be using 2.7 meters of that. What kind of 24V power supply will I need? 54 W per meter / 24 volt = 2.25 A (per meter ?) I multiple that by 2.7 and get 6.075 Amps So, do I need something like 24V 7A power supply? Thanks!

Hey peeps, i have a wifi card which has two green LEDs, but my rig's color scheme is black/red so i want to solder red ones on there, but i struggle finding the right ones. I attached a bunch of pictures of said wifi card's LEDs. If I am not wrong, these ones would be the correct ones? I have no idea about the electrical data of the current ones, so i hope it will be okay? I also included a poor photo of two LEDs on my motherboard, one of which i would like to replace. It's a SMD LED but i have no clue what size? I guess 1206 but idk. So I'd appraciate if someone could point me in the right direction.

Hello I am new here and I'm from Brazi, Well I'll assemble a PC Gamer, I wanted to see your opinions if it will be good for me to play games on ultra Config: Motherboards: ASUS Z77-A BOARD VIDEO: GTX760 2GB DDR5 PCIE EVGA DUAL FAN PROCESSOR: INTEL CORE I5-3570K 3.80GHZ 6MB LGA 1155 POWER SUPPLY: THERMALTAKE TR-600 TR2 600W MEMORY: CORSAIR VENGEANCE 8GB (2X 4GB) DDR3 2133MHZ BLUE What did you think I'll buy on PC here in Brazil Google translation: hahaha FB: https://www.facebook.com/odorizzi.sc YT: http://www.youtube.com/user/ODORIZZISMD TT: https://twitter.com/bobomsm PG: https://www.facebook.com/ODORIZZISMD