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  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
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  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
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  • A techy blog
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  1. Looking for a silent mechanical keyboard, that I can use in an office setting. Not looking for something overly gamey looking. Would really like a retro look if possible. Max budget $150, looking for black friday/cyber monday deals especially. Thanks!
  2. Hey! I am working on putting up my first desktop PC ever, and I'm not looking for a keyboard. I had a cheap gateron blue keyboard in the past. I liked how it felt but it sounded like a machine gun when I tipped, and I am a "slammer" typer. I'm now renting a room, instead of living by my own, and if I get another blue KB I'll get kicked out of the house Thus, I am looking for recommendations for a SILENT mechanical (tactile would be nice for linear is okay too) with either UK Extended or European Portuguese layout for ≈ 100€. I've found a few on the interwebs but they are either US layout or "DIY" keyboards, but honestly I rather just get a pre-built, ready to go model. Any suggestions? Cheers!
  3. Budget (including currency): 4500 USD Country: Norway Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Blender, data archiving (long term storage), various videogames, Chrome with hundreds of tabs Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I have the following pcpartslist where I tried to simply look up the items I wanted with my extremely limited knowledge of how things actually fits together in the real world: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XGcCfv - AMD CPU (DDR5 compatible?) - Motherboard with support for: ---64 (2x32) gigs of DDR5 RAM ---8 SATA and 1 m.2 NVMe, or if necessary, an expansion card - GPU with 24 Gigs of memory for heavy graphics work and Blender workloads - A silent cooling system. Not an AIO as I won't be able to maintain it or perform tube fitting. I picked a Noctua D15, but perhaps I need the D15 SE-AM4 edition to fit the AMD CPU..? I know I need a different case. The part picker already gave me an alert due to a size issue with modern GPUs. Please note that the only parts I already have in my possession are all the storage drives: 8x SATA SSDs and 1x m.2 NVMe. I do not need to purchase these, they are already in my possession. My system needs to fit these. My priorities for the build are in the following order: 1. Fitting the storage 2. Silent system. I'm happy to use a weaker CPU/GPU to reduce heat and fan noise. My aversion to noise is also why I only run SSD storage. It would be my main priority if I didn't have the drives that needs fitting 3. No fire hazard: I do not want a 40-series RTX due to the fire hazard. Nothing you say will convince me. As I no longer am in need of CUDA I am more than happy to go with an AMD equivalent. 4. 24 Gigs of GPU memory. I'm OK with going a bit lower if I have to (read: if a 40-series is my only option then I will drop this memory requirement). 5. Absolutely no LEDs that aren't purely functional. No flashy gimmicks required. Edit: Since there might be a lack of motherboards that support this amount of SATA I might need an HBA. I've added one example card to the pcpartpicker list.
  4. Budget (including currency): ~ 2222 € Country: Slovakia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming (HALO, DOOM, Stellaris, Minecraft[possibly hosting server] ), Occasional machine learning, VMs and coding related stuff Goal: silent + 0RPM machine when idle with a future upgrade path (im looking at you CPU) Note: I think i will have to resell heavily under price in case of upgrade (compared to used market of other countries) thats why i chose overkill PSU and RAM ( feel free to propose valid arguments against it ) Other details: building from scratch, upgrading from ZephyrusG14 2021 RTX3060, going to buy at the end of may, playing on 3440x1440 144Hz, my first ever own build so i feel like overkilling it Parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Q3HXDq AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler Asus TUF GAMING X670E-PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard Kingston Renegade Silver 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card Fractal Design Pop Air ATX Mid Tower Case Corsair RM1000e 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Questions: Do i need some sort of fan hub for 0RPM when idle? I guess i need PMW fans, which noctua fans should i choose? fan config? (thinking of 2 front intakes and 1 top exhaust) Will it fit? no clearance issues? Additional tips regarding this configuration? Not sure about the MOBO, thunderbolt header seems nice but i dont feel like overclocking because i want silent machine, any recommendations?
  5. The Compulab Airtop 3 is completely passively cooled while sporting an Intel i9-9900K and an Nvidia Quadro RTX 4000... sounds toasty. Have Compulab actually managed to keep it cool? Buy the Compulab Airtop 3: From Compulab: https://lmg.gg/airtop
  6. My job went full remote so my family members are quite annoyed with my keyboard so I need something more silent(Old logitech membrane keyboard but boi it is loud I don't notice with my headphones). TBH I'm not picky writer so as long as it has some space for wristrest I'm ok. Membrane is welcome .
  7. Hello there! I am currently considering buying an Acer Swift 3 for it's extreme silence and am torn between the 256GB SSD + 8GB RAM and 512GB SSD + 16 GB RAM (both single channel and a Ryzen 5 4500U btw) versions. The price difference would be about 150 USD but I might be willing to spend more for that sweet, sweet memory. My question is if anyone has made worse experiences with the 16GB model because all the reviews I've seen only talk about the 8GB one and I couldn't find one talking about the more pricy version of the laptop at all. I have seen that the battery seems to be better on the cheaper one, so I'm concerned that something similar might have happened to the fan noise. If anyone here has experience with this laptop, please let me know your thoughts!
  8. I am looking for a new laptop I'd mainly use for school and occasionally (let's say once every two weeks) for some private stuff (mostly programming). I do have an actual desktop PC though, so things like gaming can come short (30fps in Minecraft, if anything). My requirements are a Ryzen 3/i3, 8GBs of RAM, 256GB SSD and Windows 10. I wouldn't mind a convertible but it does not have to be one, especially since they are obviously more pricy. My budget is around 1000 USD, although I appreciate anything lower, haha. My biggest concerns are fan noise and battery life, although I am at this point willing to compensate for the latter by bringing a separate powerbank. Ideally the laptop should be able to sustain having OneNote, multiple Chrome tabs and IntelliJ open over an entire school day (8 hours) but as I said, I can deal with less. For the fan noise however, I don't want to make any compromises. Ideally I would get a fanless device but the one fitting the best out of the sparse selection there is, is the Surface Pro 7 (i5, 128GB) but it seems so ridiculously overpriced that I would not want to give Microsoft that money. So since I gave up looking for a fanless laptop, I am now looking for one that is still extremely quiet, maybe even silent under the load I described above (OneNote, Chrome, IntelliJ (also includes compiling of course, but I don't know how easy it is to get a laptop's fan not spinning up in that scenario, so I might just have to live with that)), as I do not want to disturb class. By extremely quiet, I mean basically unnoticeable. I have seen laptops described that way online before, but in tests even the best of these seem to create fan noise with levels of 30db while idling, which based on most of the scales I found does not seem to be that quiet (correct me if I'm wrong)? Anyways, I hope this is not too much to ask. Thanks in advance for any tips or help!
  9. Hi Guys, I am considering switching from my PC/internal 12TB, 4 HDD drive, Hardware Raid 5, to an external storage solution. My main concerns are: power consumption (Many cheap/big SSD not HDD), speed (10G Networking) and noise (embedded CPU) + freenas. Problem with the LTT vids is that it's either super duper expensive for high performance but also comes as a server package.... I would need one that silently sits under my desk and serves for the family as a big, fast, safe storage. At the same time i want it to be as silent as possible and not consume too much electricity. Anyone having a similar demand ? Budget approx $900 - 1200 perhaps a bit more for an endgame type solution. Form factor like a Fractal Node 804 Cheers, Balister
  10. Hi all. I'm looking for a silent, wired mouse. Preferably horizontal scroll too and a few programmable buttons, but these aren't a must. Free scrolls would be very nice. Silenced G502 or corded MX Master 3 could do. Something like that. Must not be Logi, manufacturer does not matter. Although Linux-compatibility would be great plus. Any ideas besides somehow modding the 502? Was also eyeing on trackballs, out of curiosity as I never tried them. But also haven't found any claims about silenced clicks.
  11. Budget (including currency): I don't have a limit at the moment. It should be future-proof. Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: The PC is mainly used for playing games. However, I would also like to stream at the same time with this new PC. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): There is currently nothing left, the entire old equipment has been sold. So I also need two-three new monitors for the PC, a desk stand for the monitors, a new mouse, a new keyboard and a new headset. I've picked out a few components here that I personally think make sense: Case: be quiet 500dx Mobo: MSI MEG B550 Unify CPU: Ryzen 9 5900X RAM: 32GB G.Skill RipJaws V black DDR4-3600 GPU: 16GB Powercolor Radeon RX6800 XT Red Devil Edition M.2: Samsung 980 Pro CPU Cooler: NH-D15 chromax.Black Power supply: Be quiet Dark Power Pro 12 I’m pretty unsure which fans I should use for this build: silent wings/ pure wings/ Noctua??? With the case, I don't know what the airflow is like. If necessary, I would look forward to suggestions for improvement. Furthermore, recommendations regarding the external devices would also be welcome Thank you for the help.
  12. Ok, I know it is impossible to make it completely silent, but are they quieter than normal reds? I am currently searching a keyboard with red silent switches because, well the name says, they are silent and I really don't like sounds of keyboards so I am searching for the one that is quiet. I am asking because I can't really find them that much, and when I find them, they usually are expensive or doesn't have lighting which I need (I am not talking about RGB, I just want static lighting) or doesn't have numpad. Are they worth it? And if yes do you know any cherry mx red silent keyboards with numpad and lighting (I really like Red but any color would work)?
  13. Hi all, I'm at a university and our research group might need a silent yet (semi-)portable computer for data acquisition. Does anyone have case recommendations for such a build? It needs to have space for at least 2, but ideally 4 PCIEx4 single slot cards because our scientific cameras are picky and will only work with the specified PCIE cards. The lab environment we're working in is noise sensitive, so we'll need to make reasonable effort at noise reduction, bringing the PC as close to silent as possible. Thankfully the only job his PC has is data acquisition so power and heat are of minimal concern. For portability I'm hoping for something like a handle, or at least something that does not weigh too much so it's easy to move around the lab. Castors won't work for various reasons. Any suggestions welcome. Cheers. EDIT: The PCIE cards come with an option for a short PCIE bracket, presumably for server racks.
  14. I'm tired of my PC sounding like it's going to take off every time I run a game. So I wanted to know which 6800XT is going to be the most silent. Currently the ROG Strix LC Radeon RX 6800 XT looks good right now or am I wrong and is there a more silent third party card?
  15. So which 3080 card is the most silent at the moment. I've seen a lot of articles about MSI GeForce RTX 3080 Gaming X Trio being the quietest out of all of the third party cards or is there another card that's better. I don't really care about the performance too much, what I really want is a 3080 that's the most silent.
  16. Budget (including currency): As little as possible, but price is as of now is 2300$ or 21250NOK. Whilst budget is something I take into consideration, getting a computer I am happy with is more important still. Country: Norway, so prices will be a bit steeper than the US and the like. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Primarily games and desktop usage. I am a messy user that will leave 40 tabs with 5+ youtube channels open, whilst also running discord, spotify etc. Other details: Hi guys and gals! This will be my second complete build, as I've been upgrading my first custom prebuilt computer which I got some 20 years ago for my 14th birthday. I already have all the software I need, as well as peripherals. Of note: a 1440p monitor which I game on, as well as a 4k projector for gaming/watching movies, and a second 1080p monitor for multitasking. My keyboard is a good old lenovo which I bought all those 20 years ago, membrane and everything. The purpose of building this computer is so that I can game on it at both 1440p and 4k (1440p being the more important resolution), without having to lower settings or experiencing anything lower than 144-60fps. I am sensitive to micro-stuttering of any kind, as well as uneven noise or loud fans. I am building this with Cyberpunk 2077 in mind, as I want to run that on max everything in both 1440p and 4k if at all possible. My tiered list of the features I want is: Perfomance > Low noise levels > Cool temperatures > Low budget > Timeless aesthetics: CPU: Intel Core i5-10600K - 300$ CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Chromax.Black - 120$ Motherboard: MSI MAG Z490 TOMAHAWK ATX - 205$ Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB DDR4-3200 CL16 - 140$ SSD (OS): Western Digital SN750 1TB - 195$ SSD (Games): Kingston A2000 1TB - 95$ GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3080 10GB EAGLE OC - 780$ PSU: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold - 160$ Case: be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev.2 Black - 290$ In addition I will add these pieces from my old case: Creative SoundBlaster X-fi Titanium HD WIFI: ASUS PCE-AC68 SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD: Western Digital Blue 1TB HDD: Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB Every part is already paid for, and the PSU, OS SSD and GPU should arrive within a tenday with any luck. The rest are resting quietly on my table, waiting patiently for assembly. I still have the right of return on every part for no extra charge for another week or so. My question is thus: Does this seem reasonable given my tiered list of features? And if not, what would you recommend as alternatives? Is there some glaring faults in my build? I intend to enable XMP for the ram, as well as dabble with overclocking the i5-10600K. I'll probably just leave the 3080 rtx as it is, seeing as there apparently is little headroom for overclocking my chosen card. No optical drive as I rarely use one, and I have an external optical drive should the need arise. Perhaps what I wonder most is if the PSU is going to be sufficient. I can acquire a corsair rm850x if necessary, for another 30$. As a bonus question: I intend to sell my old computer (and possibly the old 1920 x 1200 monitor if whomever buys the computer wants it), and I'd like to ask a fair price for it. The hardware ranges from relatively new to old, but everything works without any hickups. I can run most current games at highish settings with 60fps at 1920 x 1200. What would you charge/pay for this:
  17. Hello all Is it correctly understood that if my system draws around 650w and I have a 1200w PSU, the PSU fan might not even start spinning or if it does, it's very low in RPM which means low to no noise under load? Awkwardly enough, I just found out my blowerstyle GPU isn't only what causes my PC to be so loud under load, it's also my old Corsair HX750w from 2013. Soon I will get my RTX 3000 series ROG STRIX and I'm aiming for undervolting to have a very low noise level while gaming (I like to use speakers, so no headset) but I also want my PSU to be quiet. I don't care about efficiency - if it has to draw 300w instead of 250w, that's fine, but If I got myself the HX1200i PSU for my system that would draw around 650w under load when getting the new GPU, would that mean almost silent to maybe fully silent? Thanks
  18. Hey guys and gals, Yeah, so I am wondering, what the best known Raditor is for a "Open Loop", geared towards Silent PCs. People claim that this one, the Black Ice SR2 Xtreme+ 420mm, is the best. It has a low a FPI, Fins per Inch, at 9. For operation below 800 RPM fan all the way up to 2,000 RPM. However, this thing's been discontinued. Any ideas would be great. I am nooking for 420mm, if possible. Can go lower, but not higher. Thanks Guys
  19. Budget (including currency): 3000 USD (but preferably under 2500) Country: US I don't have any preferences for hardware makers (AMD, Intel, Nvidia), I just want the build to be as quiet as possible. I'd prefer to not passively cool, as I don't want to have any thermal throttling. Coil whine should also be taken into account (though I have no clue how to, haha). Another thing is that I would like this pc to be future-proof for a long period of time, as it will most likely end up being my college pc. RGB and how the build looks doesn't really matter to me, I would honestly prefer a metal side panel over an acrylic/tempered glass one. I'm no stranger to handling electronics/building pc's so I am not against any modifications as long as they aren't destructive or too jank. (Though I can't talk as my current pc has the front glass panel ripped off and replaced with a house HVAC filter I cut to size and taped to the case over the fans). In terms of hardware/performance I'd like to do something along these lines https://pcpartpicker.com/user/eat_my_dst/saved/#view=cKzZcf Any info/contributions would be great!
  20. The Blue ZIlent V2 is a silent tactile switch offered by ZealPC, the same vendor who has created other famous switches such as the Zealios V2, Tealios V2, and the Healios. This time around, Zeal has created the Zilents V2 which was made to compete with the MX Clear. The Zilents V2 are offered in 62g, 65g, 67g, and 78g weights, similar to its brother, the Zealios V2, which are also offered in those four weights, and additionally in four colors, with a progressively darker stem color with each weight option. I've personally chosen 65g as I own 62g Sakurios which I find a touch too light and 67g Tealios which are near the peak of my weight preference, so 65g was the middle ground in my weight taste. In my testing, I've compared the Zilent V2 to both 62g and 78g Zealios, and here's what I think. Starting off with the stem, the color comes extremely close to the Tealios, the Zilents are more blue in hue than the Tealios, where the Tealios take on a more turquoise saturation key. The stems of the Zilent V2 are smooth and definitely up to the standard of other Zeal boutique stems, made of ultra smooth plastic and it shows in the feel of the switch. This time around, there are silencing rubbers similar to those found in the Healios and its recolors the Sakurios & Roselios, three more of ZealPC's silent switch offerings. These silencing rubbers are excellent and provide a soft, pillowy bottom-out on keypress as well as dampen the impact on the way back up as well. These silencing rubbers also obviously make the switch a lot quieter as well, they slice about half of the sound profile of the Zealios V2, which is what the switch is designed after. Pictured below on the left is a 78g Zealios V2, and on the right is the 65g Zilent V2 that I have been analysing. They share the same stem leg design as well as the same stem slider design, only on the Zilent, the bottom and top of the sliders are lined with rubber instead of the traditional plastic. These are the defining characteristics of the Zilents V2 which is why I often refer to these as silent Zealios. The leaf inside both of these switches housings also remain identical to the human eye, with the legs of the contacts being highly protruded to promote that crisp and sharp tactile bump. The Zilents V2 inherit the same traits as the Zealios V2, having a defined, sharp, crisp bump at the top of the keypress, much sharper than that of an MX Clear or MX Brown. This combined with the silencing rubber to soften the bottom-out and upstroke impact, this switch is an excellent choice for those that find the Zealios V2 to be too forceful with bottom-out and upstroke, as well as find the Zealios to be too loud for a tactile switch. The ZIlents V2 are a modified switch done right, keeping all the traits of the Zealios V2 but improving them to target the market who want a silent variant. To read my review on the Zealios V2 where I go in-depth about the actuation and design of the switch similar in fashion to how I reviewed the Zilents V2, you can read below where I have linked my original Zealios V2 review.
  21. I am looking for some cooling, because just taking off the tempered glass panel reduced my temps by 8 degrees. But I also *hate* noise. So I am looking for the quietest/most effective fans possible. I am figuring 2-3 front 120mm fans, 1 120mm fan at the back, and one or two 240mm fans on top Here is my current build. She has become a bit of a frankenstein over the years, but she still kicks butt https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/btCfxs
  22. Hello, I'l looking for a dustproof case. A quick search yielded tons of "top 10 dustproof blah blah" articles, but looking at the recommendations these cases are full of holes. (Edges and back mostly.) I would think that no amount of mesh at the intake fans is going to stop dust particles from finding their way into the case. (I have an age old Cooler Master HAF case, with holes on the sides and top. The intake has a mesh covering. Utter bullshit, the case is full of dust, as expected.) At this point this dustproof home case seems to be bullshit to me. I could go some extreme industrial grade thing, but that would be stupid for home use. My secondary objective is to build a silent PC, but that is mostly about components from what I read. But the case can help. My questions: 1. Am I wrong, do I just need a simple case with filters and make sure to build positive pressure through the meshed intakes? 2. A simple mesh is enough, or are there more serious filters? 3. Can you recommend cases? What should I look for? 4. Is this possible: dustproof case with some sound isolation with still good airflow for the not actively cooled components? Thank you!
  23. Hey guys, I am currently trying to figure out appropriate fan curves for my CPU and case fans. Since I never adjusted any fan curves in my life I am a bit confused with all the available tutorials and thought I would try to get some advise. First of all, my specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600XT GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER CPU fan: Be quiet! Dark Rock 4 Pro CPU Cooler Top Flow Processor Case fans: 1x beQuiet Pure Wing 2 (DC) 140mm / 900rpm to the back (exhaust), 2x beQuiet Pure Wing 2 (DC) 140mm / 900rpm to the top (exhaust), 2 x Noctua NF-P14s redux (PWM) 140mm/1500 rpm to the front (intake) Case: beQuiet pure base 500dx Motherboard (probably doesn't matter): MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk Temperatures (pretty much Idle): Please see screenshot attached for CPUID HWMonitor snippet Now, I have a couple questions regarding the custom fan curves, and please keep in mind that my goal is to have my fans run as quietly as possible without putting my performance (when gaming or other heavy tasks) and parts at any risk: Do I adjust the CPU fans curve aswell or just the case fans? Is it stupid to use so drastically different fans for intake/exhaust? I added the 2 Noctua fans while I kept the 3 Pure Wing 2 fans that came with the case, I heard that I want to have a bit higher intake than exhaust anyway, but is the difference of 3 x 900rpm exhaust to 2 x 1500 rpm intake too drastic? Also does it matter that the Noctua fans are PWM and the Pure Wings DC, and does it change anything when creating custom fan curves? Any recommendations on how to change the fan curves? I thought of using the BIOS but its quite annoying to test it that way, so I thought of using MSI center in order to do so, does anyone have any experiences with it? How can I figure out the right temperature? Most tutorials always argue that I should go by sound, but this seems not so logical to me since of course in order to have the most quiet rig ever I could just put the fan speed at 10% for all temps, but that would lead to a overheating system, so yea I am a bit helpless in figuring out the right %/temp constellation for the 4 dots... EDIT: 5. Can I connect one of the Noctua fans to PUMP or is that solely for water cooling fans? Thanks so much for your time, and I hope you guys can give me some advice or tutorial recommendations, that would be great!
  24. At the end of this thread: I've decided to change my PSU shortly. 'Shortly' became ASAP as the PSU decided to emit some lovely crackling sounds during the weekend. I'm no electrical engineer, but I know that it's not a good sign. So, I've decided to retire this 5+ years old PSU for good. I've made a little list of the features I would really love to have. Must-haves: Modularity - modular, or at the very least semi-modular. I don't have a psu shroud in my case and cable management would be time-consuming otherwise Quiet - doesn't have to be fan-less or anything fancy like that. I use my pc for work, and during meeting the PSU noise it's particularly distracting. The unit I'm replacing does 60dB under load (not even reaching 80% of the rated capacity), if it can beat this, that's good for me Wattage - it needs enough wattage to power my current rig of course (i5 4460 - R9 390). I'm planning to get a new rig with the upcoming launches (Ryzen 4000, Rtx 3000, RDN2) and I would like to have enough wattage to keep the PSU. I was planning to go with a 1080/1440p @144hz system. Rumor has it that the 3000 series will consume around 3/400w. I'm really torn on the wattage. You'll really have to help me out on this one What I don't care about: 80+ rating - could be diamond or white for all that matters. I don't care about efficiency, as long the psu is reliable RGB - don't hate it or like it, I wouldn't pay a premium for it tho Sleeving - don't care much about it, as my case has a really tiny window. Besides, I could get some cablemod sleeved cables in the future Budget: I don't really have one. Guess it mostly depends on the wattage I'll choose to go with. I'll spend any (reasonable) amount of cash for a PSU that can deliver. Cheaping out on one the most important (if not THE most important) component in the system is a mistake, I've learned that the hard way.
  25. Hi there.So my asus fx503v has a gtx 1050 and an i5 7300hq. These fairly powerful and can run any game at like medium settings but theres one problem. I dont have headphones rn so I cant really enjoy the silent gaming experience so I have to use the speakers. The speakers are loud but the fan is louder lol. Also when Im gaming at night or just want to stream I dont really want my laptop to be sounding like a jet turbine so I have came up with a plan. My plan: Get some arctic p12 pwm pst fans (probably 3 or 4) in which most or half of the fans would push cold air in and the other would push hot air out. Get a usb hub Get 3 pin to usb adapters in order for the fans to work. I am going to make a station for the laptop to live in so the laptop would be like sliding into the case and the back of it is where the fans would be. My questions: Wlll it make my laptop any cooler and quieter or will it just be less cooler? Is it worth the hassle or should I just get a silent laptop cooler and slap in onto the back of the laptop in the station and strip it down to save space? If so recommend me one that is pretty silent, will work for a long time and is under 40 euro. Does the idea work and what fan should I choose? a static or high airflow? once again thankyou for reading these paragraphs and hopefully you can give me some advice..
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