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Hi All, to start, I want to apologize for my bad English (Greetings from Germany). So I have some really Strange CPU/GPU WAHTEVER Problem . I Searched for Days to find some how has the exakt same problem and tried every Solution that I can find. First Off my PC Spec: INNOD3D RTX3060 ICHILL RED AMD RYZEN 9 3900X CRUCIAL BALLISTIX 3000MHZ RAM (2 x 8GB) SAMSUNG EVO 860 NVME SSD 500GB 4TB of HDD So I installed every Graphic-Card Driver I could find (INNOD3D or from Geforce Experience). Every Time I Boot into a Game I have comparably low FPS (1920x1080px and full settings in Forza Horizon 5 = 80FPS (VSYNC and Framlimit disabeld). In the top right Corner of my Screen I have my FPS and GPU Usage Overlay from Geforce Experience. GeforceExperience says 99% GPU usage but the Taskmanager says not more than 25 % GPU Usage. Thats really strange. Also my RTX3060 does not get warm (not more than 54 Degree Celcius). And the Fans even dont spin up more than 15% of the RPM. If you need something I will have it ^_^. Hopefully I can finde someone how DROP a Tip. Thnaks acevin1

hey, so my system Specs are as follows. Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-8700K CPU @ 3.70GHz (12 CPUs), ~3.7GHz Corsair Vengence Pro - DDR4 -3200 MHZ - Memory: 32768MB RAM ROG MAXIMUS X HERO MOBO RTX 3080 TUF - OC 10GB. 850w PSU- corsair RM850x. 1.5TB M.2 NVMe 1tb HDD - 7200rpm. Hi All, really struggling to understand why im getting such a terrible novabench score for my GPU.... my friend has a 3070 and it is smashing my gpu scores. it wont even go over 170 frames honestly tried so much. brought new PCIE cables as i thought the GPU wasn't getting enough power from the PSU, Overclocked with MSI Afterburner, re-installed the drivers. any advise would be appreicatred.... (you can see how much my scores keep fluctuating too.) the 2679 score was with a 2060.... so the fact im getting 200 points more is giving me aids concidering i paid 800 for the GPU -.-

Worst piece of shit that I have ever seen. Whoever designed this case, needs to be executed. A no name 10$ case is build better and with better materials than this garbage. Antec says the case can fit an ATX mobo. While that's true, it's barely true. Since the mobo barely fits in. The cable management? Atrocious. It's basically non existing. In the left corner you'll find the cut out for the 4/8 pin power connector which is unusable. Since the mobo covers it up when installed. Sure you do some trickery with cables by forcing the cables as flat as possible by pushing the mobo on them but that's just insanely stupid. The hdd tool-less mounting mechanism is the worst tool-less design ever. While it locks the hdd in, the hdd can still move freely up and down no problem, even securing it with screws doesn't fix the issue, Another thing regarding the hdd mounting, the sata power cables you have to jam them in such a way that when you close the side panel it might break the connect from the hard drive. The case also has a 2.5 inch ssd/hard drive mount place. You have to slide it in at an angle then push it down and then lock it with screws. While this is ok, the problem occurs once again with the cables. The sata power cable barely fits in, and once wrong move and you'll break the connector on the ssd/hdd. Moving on to the 5.25 bay, the top one is useless. The metal is bend in such a way that it just doesn't fit the optical drive. It's not a 5.25 inch bay, it's more like 5.24. Just small enough so it won't fit. You can only use the second one. But once again the tool-less design is crap, because it just don't hold the drive in place. Luckily there are holes so you can screw it in. Honestly I have more to say, but I think that's enough for now. I've had Antec products before, they were crap. Each one of them had some issue. And I promised myself to never buy an Antec product ever again. But I wanted a new case since I'm planning on upgrading my rig and the gpu that I wanted wouldn't fit in my current case. And I don't have that much money plus I didn't want to spend a lot on the case. So I saw the Antec one and read some reviews on it and some YouTube videos and it looked like a great deal. Boy was I wrong. What I've learned is never to trust reviewers and videos on YouTube when it comes to cases. Unless you have in hands, so you can actually see what's what, you can't make a proper call if it's good or not. I've said I'll never buy an Antec product ever again, but a case is a case. So I said to myself, what could possibly go wrong? In my life I've bought a lot of things, some of of them turned out to be crap. But this is truly the worst piece of shit I have ever bought. And now I swear I'll never buy an Antec product ever again. Even if it's something that only Antec makes. I would rather not own whatever that product might be than dealing with an Antec product.

I was shrinking my drive because I generously gave 40GB to C drive >_>. wanted to expand and it and while it was shrinking I had an unfortunate power cut now the drive doesn't show up in the file explorer but can see that space on disk management. I tried recovery tools and they seem to find my files but when I hit recover they ask me to open a directory which can hold the data and I don't have any....... I just want my drive back.

Soooooo.... I went to turn on my PC, and something seemed a little broken.... Please see attachments. This is a Zotac GT 730 with 1GB DDR5 VRAM (Amazon link) that I got a month or two from Amazon (sold my RX 480s). The PC seems fine (except for the shitty Microsoft Display Driver) with my 256mb 7300GT (only other card I have). I think that this is a VRAM hardware issue. The things on the screen that are most recently loaded/refreshed seem to be the least screwed-up elements, so that indicates that memory items are being corrupted over time. It also seems to pretend to function as a GPU using the Microsoft Display Driver, but the GPU Memory is not showing up in HWInfo64 (Should be 1GB DDR5) My PC seems to boot some of the time, but not always. The BIOS screen always shows up, always with artifacts. Not always the same artifacts though. I managed to grab the HWInfo screenshots and email them to myself before the PC crashed again. Does anyone have any insight into possible causes/solutions/workarounds for this? (I should also be able to return to Amazon, so no oven fixes) IMG_0410.MOV

Can I put any of the polaris cards in my m32BF? also what power supply would you recommend for it?

Hey, So I recently purchased an Xbox One, and set it up in my 'game room'. However, the game room has incredibly shitty internet. My PC is in there and has great internet only because it has a fifty-foot Ethernet cable that runs from it directly to the router. I'm not sure why the internet is so bad, however my Xbox cannot even connect to Live, and this has made it quite irritating for me and my friends when we play. Is there a way to boost speeds without having to buy another fifty-foot Ethernet cable? I can't move my router into the game room, because it's shared between me and the other tenants that live in this building (it's mounted in the ceiling, so four apartments can access it). I don't want to buy another Ethernet cable and have to drill another hole in the ceiling . Any good router boosters or router extenders that you guys know of? Thanks in advance. Jack

Okay so I had a rajintek triton water cooler where the water block is part of the res, pictured below, in a horizontal case.... The thing is along the left side where the connectors... connect... it developed a crack in the side wall below them. Now understand this system was not under any kind of pressure, or ever moved, it developed this crack on its own so I'm going to recommend that you avoid this cooler... That being said the leak appears to have been slow, about 20% of the pins on my 2011 5930x processor were exposed and the motherboard still flashes its bios and turns on (albeit with a cpu code) this was of course before I discovered the leak dont be stupid and power your system on wet. Anyway... It looks like minimal water got into the pins and excessive air cleaner and paper towling, and q-tips, and and and etc. The bottom of the processor and socket still appear like new... so no corrosion or build up minerals or any of the other things ive seen in leak pictures on cpu's. Ill upload pictures later once I get this laptop fully operational. Anyway what im saying is.... I feel like there is a narrow chance I survived without any serious damage but I have no cooler so in the meantime I figured I would share some pics and take bets on if you think its going to be okay or not! Here is a pic of when it was fully operational.

I don't know what has happened, but like 2months ago csgo was 200-300fps and league steady 200fps and now csgo is 30-45fps and league barely 60. i have updated all of my drivers and it didn't help at all. please help

I plugged in my headphones today and my computer just shut down, no BSOD just turned fully off. I tried to turn it on, the lights come up but it does not post on screen. I checked all cables, but nothing was wrong with it. Any idea how to fix this?

I just finished building a PC, the specs were: -CPU: Intel i7-6700 -GPU: MSI R9 390X -PSU: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Power Supply -RAM: Kingston HyperX DDR4-2600 RAM -Storage: Seagate 2TB SSHD, Intel 730 Series 240GB -Case: NZXT S340 -Cooler: Hydro Series GTX H100i -Mobo: Z170A MSI Gaming M7 The power lights were turned on and even if I pressed the button on the Mobo or the front panel power button, It won't give me even a beep. I tried pulling out the RAM, and it still didn't produce a beep. None of the fans are running, nor the lights except for the ones on the Motherboard. Just a quick note, are the fans that are installed on the top of the radiator supposed to be connected to the CASE FAN ports on the mobo, or the cooler itself? Also, my CMOS light comes on when I press the power switch. Is this relevant, and if it is, how do I fix it? It's my first build EVER, so it would be a lot helpful if you explained things in detail. Thank you.

Hello! New guy here. So I just completed my build, and it has been running since yesterday. But today when I was sitting, watching youtube, my monitor suddenly went black, I had no signal. Then i heard my new graphics card fan run at max rpm. I was worried it might have been an overheating issue, but the exhaust was not even warm, and I have great airflow in my case. I did notice that I could still hear the sound of the video run in the background. So I tried restarting it, but my monitor still had no signal, and the VGA LED on my Mobo was now glowing red. I tried to swtich PCE slot, but that didn't help, and I am now sitting with my old card installed. I am going to RMA it since its like 1 day old, but i thought i could learn something, so I am asking if theres any way to check. My specs are: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 FX-8370 Black R9 390X 8x2 Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3-1866 DC 16GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 - 2TB Samsung EVO 850 250gb EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2, 750W PSU OS: Windows 10 64-bit Pic of PC with Defunct card

Hi all! I'm having a problem with this shitty System and compressed memory thingy, it's using all my ram lol. When i'm gaming tomb raider im getting lag spikes every few minutes, using a remote monitoring software, I can see on my phone that it keeps using the page file. And each time it does that, it lags, lol. Further checking with task manger, i find the culprit, it's the dreaded System and compressed memory service, just hogging over 6GB ram, just the same as tomb raider. How can i ask this service to just fuck off and let me game in peace? Now for my system specs: xenon x5660 @4.7ghz 3x 8GB Crucial ddr 3 1600mhz @ cas7 p6tdeluxe samsung 840 pro ssd. CF 7950 @ 1ghz core, 1380 memory. ( Struggling with heat, lol) Corsair HX1050. Shitloads of fans. Now with my specs and amount of ram, it shouldn't be a problem. and my windows 10 install is just 4 months old, and i'm not running many programs in the background either. The only thing i can think of,is primocache which is using 6gb of my ram for caching, although i should still have 18gb left >_< Any ideas folks? i'm about to throw my pc out of the window x)

Hi i have problems with lenovo g50. I cant get into bios i tried everything presing f2 f10 f12 delete when it was booting and icant get there. And its extremly underclocked .On CPU-Z stres test where my thinkpad t420 is boosting to 3ghz with core i5 2520m.that lenovo has celeron n2830 i check intels ark database and it says it supports turbo boost up to 2.4 ghz but it always runs at 500mhz.It can connect to wifi.pls help me and my grandma.

Hi everyone, A couple days back I got the "Unfortunately, AMD driver stopped working and successfully recovered itself.." message while I was playing BO3 and I hard-restarted the computer and everything was fine. 2 days ago it happened again and I did the same thing and it was okay for a while. Today I had got that message and I just have closed the game through task manager and I got it again after about 2 hours. Is my GPU or RAM failing? I was looking into buying a new GPU, but I don't have money as of yet. Rig: - CPU: Intel core i7 4790 (non-K;stock speeds) - Motherboard: Gigabyte Z97 HD3 - RAM: Kingston Hyper X Savage 8GB 2400MHz (XMP profile on;nothing tweaked) - GPU: Sapphire Toxic R9 280X (stock speeds) - 1 SSD and 1 HDD - PSU: Corsair CX750 Thanks in advance! - Mike

If you are looking for some crap hardware or want to laugh at my misery YOU HAVE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!!! Prepare to cry: CPU: Intel 2 Duo-Core E4600 2.40 GHz Motherboard: Gigabyte P31-DS3L RAM: 4 Gb DDR2 GPU: Gigabyte GeForce 9500 Hard drive: 390 Gb PSU: Around 450W-ish Btw this was brought in 2008 for 800 euros. You are free to laugh at my misery or tell me your opinion in the comments. Enjoy!

I was going to do a full review on these headphones, including a head-to-head comparison with the DT 880 but I'm not sure there's any point. Immediately after putting music through this headphone, I could hear something was off. The midrange on this headphone can only be described as "boxy", meaning an overemphasis in the 250-500Hz band. My first thought was that I just needed to get used to the sound of a new headphone, having been using the DT 880 almost exclusively for over a year. Unfortunately, my impression of the headphone didn't improve with time; in fact it got worse. While the boxy midrange was apparent with just about any kind of musical program, it was shockingly apparent when listening to solo piano or cello, both of which have a lot of tonal character in the lower mid-range. These instruments sound nasally and closed-in from the T1. What I am hearing is so strikingly awful, it's as if the T1 was made from two headphones, shoved together into a single perplexing mess. The upper mid-range is exceptionally sweet and clear, with an airy treble and expansive, layered soundstage. The bass digs deep and hits hard without losing control. Then in the middle you've got this shitty low mid-range showing it's lumbering ass, completely ruining the otherwise exceptional sonic presentation. Now, you're probably thinking that I didn't have a good enough amplifier or needed to burn in the headphones with brown noise for like 200 hours (the ding dongs on head-fi certainly thought so). Well, as an experiment, I swapped the stock T1 pads with my DT 880 pads. The sickening, bloated midrange was completely gone. Of course, so was a lot of the bass, and the treble was now rather painful. But the point is that what I heard from these headphones out of the box is just how they were designed. In an attempt to rectify the lean bass of the original T1, beyerdynamic went and totally dicked up the mid-range. Apparently the people who knew what they were doing when they designed the DT 880 left and were replaced by a bunch of hacks who've never heard real music. I guess the conclusion is that I should take my own advice and not buy expensive headphones without hearing them first. Also, I have to seriously wonder about beyerdynamic; this was their second official attempt to get the T1 right after a whole slew of issues, and this was the result? And why has no one else noticed this? I have to wonder if this isn't a case of "the emperor has no clothes". No one wants to admit that a $1k+ flagship headphone sounds like a piece of crap that was designed in an afternoon before being rushed out the door so idiots could throw money at it. Maybe I'm being unfair here. Maybe I just got a lemon and should go through the process of exchanging it through Amazon in the hopes that this was just a weird manufacturing fluke with the pads or the driver or something. I'll explain why I'm not going to do that, and instead will be returning them and writing this nasty, negative review. First, this is a flagship headphone positioned at $1100. At that price point, no headphone with such an obvious and glaring flaw should get out of the factory. All it would take is for some chump to put these on their head for like a minute to detect the problem. Second, I was assured by the beyerdynamic T1 product manager on head-fi that every T1 actually does go through a "100% quality control incl. extensive quality assurance of electrical and acoustic properties." So again, a very obvious flaw like this should have been caught in testing. Third, beyerdynamic has not had a great track record for designing amazing headphones in the past 10 years. The current DT line of headphones came out way back in 2005. Since then, beyerdynamic has treated us to a series of turds, in the form of the T70 and T90 (both ear-destroying treble-cannons), T5p (described by Tyll Hertsens of innerfideltiy.com as "an abomination of harshness") and the original T1, which suffered from insane levels of quality control problems - mismatched drivers, wildly varying frequency response from unit to unit, and multiple silent revisions. At this point I feel like I already gave beyerdynamic enough of a chance, just by buying their overpriced "flagship". I've wasted even more time writing this stupid review. So if anyone's still wondering, I don't recommend these headphones, despite their obvious technical prowess and superiority to the DT 880 in numerous other areas. I guess if anyone wants to try them and contradict what I've laid out here, and do it in a constructive manner, they can go ahead. Otherwise, avoid the T1 "2. Generation". Thanks for reading.

I'm not receiving notifications from quotes. Not sure if it's from anything else. I'll follow this to test. Shitty bug-ridden garbage. Missing functionality, bugs rampant... This is an alpha. Please stop being so stubborn and just revert it. Even if that is a lot of work. This forum is NOT READY, regardless of how great it looks.

Seriously did I miss something? The WAN Show before CES they asked what people wanted to see and it was monitors and VR. Sure there was a bit of monitor content, but there was only ONE VR video and it wasn't even from a VR headset. It seems like the videos from CES are all up, but they missed a ton of stuff that i would have liked to see.

Okay I have not gotten the "will you upgrade?" so I have not yet but all I know says I should wait after them having issues...

So every time I hit the "controls" button in either the main menu or ingame, My game freezes and crashes. Tried verifying and re installing but nothing is working. Anyone got a fix for this?

That's a bad joke even after all these patches the game doesn't start for me at least. No blackscreen etc. it just does nothing, WHY? It seems all my Ushit games doesn't work like watchdogs except there I get a error message "watchdogs doesn't work" (CPU: 3930K, 16GB Ram, GTX 980)

I am trying to contact steam support currently and I have logged on then clicked on support and it ask me to log in again. So I do and then when I hit login it says I have typed an invalid Username/password or the verification code. And I know I typed everything in correctly and tips?

So, if this is real, it explains a lot of why they release unfinished and terrible ports. http://asidcast.com/index.php/2014/11/ex-ubisoft-employee-talks-experience/ What do you think?

So... my current rig with a Celeron 2.0GHz is really pissing me off: it freezes EVEN WHEN LISTENING TO RADIO WITH AIMP, doesn't let me watch Youtube EVEN @ 240p. Even an older PIII 800 MHz can do better. And, it laggs everytime, even now. The problem is not the cooling, because the thermal compound was reapplied I've decided, that I should kill it. Maybe it will make me feel better :> I could ramp up the frequency of it to the max, or etc. I'll wait for your suggestions I'm also going to buy a new rig, on LGA1366 (because I don't have that much money for a 'K' Ivy bridge/Haswell CPU). I'll going to do all my editing on it, some light gaming. Thanks in advance, RedWarrior.