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Well just as the title states does anyone know if this psu (at the 1000 or 1300w) is anygood?. there are no reviews and it is not on the tierlist. from what i could find it that some user speculated that the psu might be a rebrand wentai psu. but that also doesnt ring any bells for me. any input ?

I'm getting my first ever DECENT PC in two days. I went to the store and ordered it today. Everything was fine except for the PSU (which I thought was fine when I agreed to buy it). But now seeing how it's in the "AVOID AT ALL COSTS" tier, I almost had a heart attack Here's the link to the PSU: (in french) http://www.sbsinformatique.com/prod-18166-Alimentation-... Sadly the store from which I'm purchasing my rig has only this PSU or a REALLY EXPENSIVE (250$) Corsair PSU. So is it okay if I get away with this. And maybe when the Warranty is over (1 year) I upgrade to a higher quality PSU? MY SPECS : MOTHERBOARD: MSI H110 M PRO-VD RAM: 8GB DDR4 2400MHZ CPU: I5 7500 GPU: Asus GTX 1060 Turbo 6GB STORAGE: HDD 3.5 WD 1 TB PSU: Sharkoon SHP 650W 80PLUS WHITE PS: I'd really like to get this PC as I don't have many options (in my country) Also have you ever used a tier 5 PSU?

I have a sharkoon skiller pro+ keyboard and it has backlighting. i want to make so every time i press a button the color changes but i can't do that in the software. Does anybody know how to do it. or is it not possible keyboard URL: http://sharkoon.com/product/1693/SkillerProPlus#desc

HDD Shows up in BIOS and via external USB (Sharkoon Drivelink 2.0) but not in Disk Management when connected internally. Formatted my 1.5TB HDD last night (took like 8 hrs) via my Sharkoon↴. The problem was still here before i formatted. Here's also a pic from BIOS

Hello, I am searching a new after-market CPU cooler for my Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3,9Ghz. Here are my components: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Mainboard: MSI B350M PRO-VDH Case: Sharkoon CA-M GPU: GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Only fans with a height under 105mm fit in the mentioned case. What CPU-Cooler do you recommend? While searching I found this coolers: Noctua NH-L12 SilverStone Nitrogen NT06 Pro V2 Noctus NH-L9x65 SE-AM4 It is important that the fan is silent. Best regards Jonas

Hey guys, I would like to hear your opinion on the above mentioned cases. Yet, I have not seen any Sharkoon cases and do not know the build quality. (You can also recommend me another case if you have some recommendation around 110$) Thank you in advance

https://en.sharkoon.com/product/1678/DG7000-G#gallery Title its saying it all.. Anyone of you have it?share some thought about it?

Hello everyone( new here..) I am looking for a new case. Currently using T28 Sharkoon case which was and still excellent but unfortunately is doesn't fit my new CPU cooler (Deepcool Lucifer K2 ) which is about 16.3 cm long. I am undecided between the Corsair and the models above. They have a similar price in my country and fit my specifications --> (ATX/mid) CPU - Intel I7-4770k GPU - R9 290 PSU - TX 650 M 1 HDD 1 SSD For now, I am inclined for the sharkoon case as it has 4 usb slots and I am already familiar with their products but they are less popular than corsair.

Hi Forums, So recently i upgraded my pc with a new motherboard, ram, cooler and cpu, but with this motherboard i am having the problem that my keyboard is disconnecting for a split second at random intervals. i have already tried setting that windows can't disable the device to save power, i don't see any USB drivers for my motherboard, nor can i see any settings in the bios for where i can increase the max power delivered by the USB connections. there are no driver updates for the keyboard and usb devices when i go into device manage (i know this isn't the best way but my previous system worked perfectly fine). my previous motherboard was an asus prime X370-pro, and currently i have an asus ROG Strix X570-e. regarding power delivery i only have one 4 pin CPU connector not connected, but that shouldn't interfere with USB power delivery i believe. so if anyone has a fix/suggestion for this problem, i'd be very grateful for the help

Hello, I am interested in the reliability of these brands: Deepcool, Sharkoon, Chieftec, and Energon; and their price-to-performance value. I am in no position to purchase online. If you cannot inform me about the brands themselves, at least help me understand what it is that I am looking for in a good PSU. I am trying to build a PC. It will most likely be an i-5 8400, RTX 2060, 16GB DDR4 2400 build. The MB is the basest card that supports it, namely AsRock H310M LGA 1151, 2666. Since the build is around $560-$1000 (regional equivalent, 560 is without GPU, 1000 is with the 2060); I am looking for budget parts. I have several questions: 1. The PSU I was offered was Energon 750W, EPS-750W 13,5cm silent fan, 8Pin PCIe x 2 Not only could I not find reliable reviews online, but the only forum post I did find was of a person complaining that it had blown up (literally). So it seems like an unreliable PSU. My other choices within the range (~$80) are options by Sharkoon, Deepcool and a CoolerMaster 700W 20+4Pin (this one is out of stock). Which of these (Energon, Sharktoon, Deepcool) is the most reliable brand - I understand that the answer is most likely CoolerMaster, but it has a 4-pin connector, and I don't think that will work. 2. Do I really need 750W? Can I get away with less? What is the minimum I would need for this system? And should I? 3. For my present build (i5-7400, 16GB DDR4 2133, GTX 1060 6GB), I use a a Chieftec 500W CPS-500S. I don't understand what most of that means. But the PSU has been satisfactory. Should I try to get another Chieftec? 3. Should I invest in a better brand motherboard? (Gigabyte or MSI)? I know how this sounds... I am overpaying for a mid-range system; and I still have to make budget cuts on some of its elements so as not to exceed the $1000 line. But that's how things are where I live. This is the best deal I can get. So I would appreciate it if I don't get flack for "being cheap", unless you are positive that none of these brands are a good idea. Thanks, Katarn

My Case Fans just got louder idk really why because its always 12v These are the Case Fans from the Sharkoon TG5 RGB all on the Fan Splitter connected via molex. Maybe someone has an idea why they got louder or like spin faster now?

I made my researches and I founf this list of PSU to be good. Do you have any sugestion on which one is better or maybe some other model to consider? https://www.amazon.it/hz/wishlist/ls/3GMZZCVVJIWKJ?ref_=wl_share

Hey guys,i need a new keyboard,and under the price that i can spend i've found two keyboards,Corsair K55 ( Membrane) and Sharkoon SGK3 (Mechanical). (EDIT:At the price of those may have another good options at your country,but in Brazil at the price range of R$ 250 {and with numpad} those seems the better ones) I pretend using them mostly for gaming,but i don't know the differences between a mechanical and a membrane keyboard,besides that i've heard that mechanical keyboards lasts long and are more sensitive,so help me please ? . Thanks for the attention!

Hi guys. I built a PC in my Sharkoon VG4-W case a few months ago,and everything works fine except for the two little LED lights on the front panel. Does anyone know how to make these work? It doesn't matter for the PC's performance (obviously) but it's nice when everything works.

At the Cable-Mod Webside i cant find any Sharkoon PSU´s in the Compatibility List. I need extensions for : 20+4pol. Mainboardcable (Asus 170-A) , 6+2pol. PCIe (GTX 960 4gb )-is modular , no extension needed , 4+4-pol power connector. I need those cables in white.

I wondered if I should get the EVGA 430W 80 Plus PSU, or the Sharkoon WPM500 80 Plus Bronze. CPU: i5 6500 MoBo: Gigabyte B150M-D3H mATX SSD: Kingston SSDNow 120GB V300 HDD: Seagate M8 1TB GPU: Gigabyte GTX 960 4GB OC Windforce 2X (The little one that has blue edges)

Hi everyone, I'm a Belgian IT student and I'm planning to build my first gaming PC in a couple of months. I've already done a lot of research into parts and compatibility and stuff like that but I would really appreciate it if some more experienced people would give me some feedback. Here is a list of parts i'm planning to use: - (CPU) Intel Core i7-6700K: http://ark.intel.com/products/88195/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4_20-GHz - (GPU) Gigabyte GeForce GTX970: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5212&kw=GV-N970WF3OC-4GD1.0/1.1#ov - (PSU) Sharkoon WPM600 Bronze: http://www.sharkoon.com/product/1681/WPMBronze#desc - (Motherboard) MSI z170A Raider Krait: http://eu.msi.com/product/motherboard/Z170A-KRAIT-GAMING-R6-SIEGE.html#hero-overview - (RAM) Crucial Ballistix 16GB DIMM DDR4 2400MHz: http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/memory-ballistix-sport - (HDD) Intenso 6513113 3TB 7200rpm: http://www.intenso.de/produkte_en.php?kategorie=29&&produkt=1317278428 - (SSD) Samsung 850 Evo Series 500GB: http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/memory-storage/MZ-75E500B/AM - (CPU cooler) Arctic Liquid Freezer 240: http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/liquid-freezer-240.html - (Case) Sharkoon BW9000-W: http://www.sharkoon.com/product/1678/BW9000-W#desc All the parts listed would cost me about €1485. The main reason for building my own gaming pc is first of all doing more gaming. Right now I have a (nearly) 3 year old Acer Aspire V3-772G on which I can play GTA V at reasonable settings, but that's pretty much the only game I really want to play that I can play. I would like to play other games like Rainbow Six Siege, Just Cause 3, Metal Gear Solid V, Fallout 4, ... Some Questions I have: - Would the 600W power supply be sufficient for the components listed? - Do I have to buy a new Windows 10 product key? Right now my Acer is running Windows 10, but since i'm planning on still using my laptop for mobile usage I'm pretty sure I can't use that on my new gaming PC. I also have an older PC running Windows 7 that I don't use. Would it be possible to somehow use that older product key and then upgrade it to Windows 10? I would love to hear your feedback and thank you in advance for having a look at my PC build.

The Sharkoon VG4-W is a great budget case with many good features including its looks, the paint job on the inside and outside, and seems solid. New gen case features like a motherboard tray cutout for large CPU coolers, tool-less 90° drive bays cable management holes. A decent upgrade option for those with older cases wanting easy access to HDDs and SSDs, this case has several things going for it... but one big drawback. Read on to see how my build turned out! I just purchased a VG4-W in blue for my secondary tower build, I was replacing an old cheap case with something more versatile and with better cable management and airflow, as I noticed my old HDD sitting above the PSU was hitting 50*C! So I bought the Sharkoon VG4-W (window variant) in blue. I always like to start with the positive, but after carefully unboxing it, I noticed mine had a slight dent in the top of the case, likely from the plastic strapping. I was able to push and work it out, but first impressions... Apart from that, the case looks fantastic, the paint on the outside and inside of every surface is well done in black, and the interior tray is nicely finished in blue with matching colored tool-less drive tray locks, and the overall build is very solid. As this was an upgrade for a living room Media PC, I had an older M-ATX motherboard and it was super easy to drop in. ATX boards may be a tight fit, and will make cable management at the bottom harder. Cable management was easy with lots of tie down points, except note there's no holes at the top of the motherboard tray! This means I had to route the 8 pin Molex connector up to the top right of my motherboard through the gap in the video card PCB between the PCI slot and the HDMI/DVI plate. Not ideal. The motherboard tray does have a large cutout for aftermarket CPU cooling solutions, which I really liked. My build had 3 optical drives, 2 HDDs and an SSD. This is where I ran into the biggest issue with the Sharkoon VG4-W Blue: the front intake fan is almost completely useless. It's bolted to the solid sided HDD cage, which has two 5mm x 20mm notches per tray, cut to form the rails to support the drives, and three centered 20mm x 46mm ventilation holes per tray on the front side. I originally planned to put my HDDs in the top and bottom spots to leave the middle free for airflow. But due to poor design, the middle tray ventilation hole is blocked by the solid backing of the intake fan's spindle. This leaves two tiny holes as the only cooling coming through. For power users with three HDDs, it would be blocked completely. Furthermore, the other side of the HDD cage lacks the ventilation holes, so the air exits around the front or rear of the cage. Some very poor planning, as this will leave hot spots on the left side of your HDDs. There aren't any spots to bolt fans on the other side of the HDD cage, either. The worst thing is, the front of the HDD cage is a solid piece of stamped metal to save cost. They could have made a front panel and separate cage spaced out by even 5~10mm for much improved airflow but they designed the fan to attach directly to the side of the drive cage. With no additional vents, there's no space for blown air to go anywhere. In comparison, my Cooler Master case front panel has a good 10mm space before the HDD cage with a more open sided design, which gets lots of airflow through. Since I often do small alterations to suit my builds, with much effort I carefully took apart the Sharkoon VG4-W Blue's front to see if I could drill or use metal snips to carefully widen or make additional air vents, but you'd actually be cutting the actual drive tray... it's extremely difficult. Also, any rough metal edges on the cage would directly scratch the drives. The drive cages are also not removable. For fan locations, you can change the location of the front LED fan up a whole fan width or down a little to different mounting holes, as there's actually space for two 120mm fans. But in no way would that improve HDD bay airflow, as the cage is sealed at the top. Moving the fan one down to the very bottom, the 6 clear, tiny plastic spacers covering the front filter pegs, holding the front filter and pressing on the fan don't seem to align. I'd probably never see them again, they're very easy to lose. By the way, those wanting to install an extra front fan can forget about that too without bending connections or a possible resolder job, if they want to use the I/O panel. They designed a top fan mount spot but the I/O panel wires all come straight back into that area instead of down or to the side. Your SSDs do have a lot of breathing room though. I really like the I/O panel layout on the outside, and just love the shaped and almost invisible power button. It's got a solid feel. Cable management went easily and although I could have done a slightly neater job, I did have issues on the back when trying to finally put the side back on. There's not much clearance there at all, but nothing some repositioning couldn't remedy. I will point out that while the side panel front latches work, the top and bottom latches don't seem to at all. It's basically held on by just the front latches and the two back screws. +++ Pros +++ Solid interior construction, looks very polished. 3x 5.25" Optical bays, 3x 3.5" HDD bays, 3x 2.5" SSD bays +1 mounting spot case bottom. 2 LED 120mm fans, 1 front, 1 rear. Supports ATX boards, CPU coolers up to 150mm high. Air filters covering bottom and front intake. Tool-less bay locks: optical x2, HDDx3. Motherboard tray cutout for CPU cooling solutions, cable management. Goodie bag has matched screws for everything you need to install. - - - Cons - - - Flimsy case top panel which is easily dented. Front intake is 85% blocked by case, and will be completely blocked if installing 3 HDDs. Bottom filter comes off too easily, very difficult and requires two hands to re-install. Rubber grommets and cutouts missing from motherboard tray top for good cable management. Case front very hard to take off. Needle nose pliers (from the rear panel side first) worked for me. Case front air filter difficult to clean and replace, with 6 easily lost plastic spacers to reinstall. I'm very happy with the case overall. The build is solid and looks great, and I'm excited with the upgrade. I wish the top panel could have been stiffer though, and the strapping guy at the factory a little less aggressive. Sitting under a desk, the LED fans look amazing through the front and side window. I can live without well-latching side panels and a little extra work cable routing in smaller spaces, but the score would have been perfect if the front fan was actually useful. It's sad because looking inside the case you can see the craftsmanship and planning that went into the layout, and to have just one very essential thing affecting the grade of an otherwise amazing case. I would have gladly paid an extra 5 to 10 dollars to have better front air vents and a easy to clean filter system, I suppose Sharkoon's higher end models have those features. This is a good case, and would be excellent with better cooling. If you have more than one HDD though, you should consider another option, or be very skilled with a dremel! ---------------------------------------------- Update: The front accent LED lights started flickering a week after I bought the case, and while I was very carefully checking the wiring, they finally went out for good and won't come back on. While I was in there, I also decided to use tin-snips to carefully cut out a circular hole in the drive bay, using a big soft towel behind to catch metal and shavings. It took about 90 minutes to open up the area, but would have been much easier if I'd done this before the components were installed. Or, if Sharkoon had done a better design job. Still somewhat happy with the case, though. Reviewer's note: I originally posted this in June as a public service. Since then I misplaced/lost the original photos I had. These images are mine and taken by me, and I give my permission to use them here. (removed watermark from previous site.)

Cooler Master N200 (my first choice) is not available in my local retailer. Sharkoon T3-W got my attention for its front mesh, colored internal, and 2 included fans. Any of you that have experience with the case or even with the brand? Should i go for this case or wait for the re-stock of CM N200? Thank you.

Hello guys! I would really like liquid cooling for my cpu, but I have been wondering, Where do I put the radiator? I don't have top fans, I do have 2 intake fans and 1 exhaust fan (Look picture) I want liquid cooling because my stock amd cooler makes too much noise (When under load i have the feeling my case is going to fly away ) And I want to do some overclocking So I researched a bit on google and found out that most people put their radiator on their top fans (If that is the right word) But I don't have those So my question is where do I put my radiator (If my case is able to support that) and which liquid cooling system do you guys recommend (120mm single fan please) Full pc specs CPU: AMD FX-8320 (with stock cooler at the moment) GPU: MSI GTX 960 4 gb RAM: 16gb DDR3 RAM Motherboard: MSI GAMING 970 PSU: 500W sharkoon PSU CASE: Sharkoon t28 red edition (please dont hate on my cable management, It's my first ever build. Tips are always really appreciated)

Hey there, My powersupply, a sharkoon rush power 600W recently started acting up a bit, meaning the fans'S getting loud as hell. I know it is summer and the ambient temperatrure is high, but I am not concerned about load. I recently swapped my GPU from a 6870 to a 970 and the i5 2500 should draw about 60 - 80 Watts max, so I guess the thing should be way within its comfort zone. However, once I fired up something more demanding, let's say a round of competitive Global Offensive, it spools up and stays that way, even when the rest of the system is cooled down again. It's mounted in the bottom, draws air from the bottom, the pc stands under my desk on a wooeden floor and since the desk is not pushed to the back of the wall there is a gap and hot air can rise, so it should be able to draw reasonably cold air in. So - is this just a faulty fan controller and I just never noticed it in the summertimes? Or is it a broken fan controller?^^ Is there anything one can do about power supply noise despite getting a quieter one? Like swapping fans?^^ Best regards

Im biulding a budget Gaming pc, but im not sure if ive got the right case for it, Im thinking about the Sharkoon VG4-W Rood Because it looks good it isnt very expensive and i think its big enough, Is this a bad choice and if so what other cases do you recommend - I would really like to have one with a window

Hello, is there anyway (including modding) to fit a h100 in a Sharkoon VS-4 Case or on the top of it or even the side panel?

Ok, so i've been falling in love with the normal "poop" noctua fans, is there a reason to Pay a premium over any other good brands like noiseblocker or corsair? Hit me! Thanks! :-)

Hello, and thanks for reading this already! I've got some questions about the Sharkoon Vaya: Where does the watercooler go? It's not specified on the site. Is it a good idea to take in from front and back, and exhaust from the side? Thanks an advance!