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Hi There, Just bought RTX 4080S, did i need to replace my current PSU Corsair Hx 750 with the better one ? I had Anxiety with pcie converter from the brand, worry to cause fire and the aesthetic mehhh… or i just buy corsair 12vhpwr ? Is it still support old psu like i had ?
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Hello everyone.. as the title said i wanna know the manufacturing year of this psu.. i m currently using more then a decade old cooler master 850w psu.. i m not in a condition to buy a brand new psu right now.. so if this psu isn't that old i would like to use it for a bit.. i am attaching a picture and serial no. Of that psu
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Hi I'm planning on a new editing and motion design rig I've already bough a ryzen 9 5900x and a b550 MSi mb Case is 4000d Looking for the psu GPU will be RTX 3060 12GB I was thinking between Seasonic Focus GX 750W and Corsair RM750x. I had the oppurtunity to try the latter for a pc rig and the integrated caps in the cabled really pissed me off. So i was looking for an alternative Not to mention, in italy the seasonic is like 50 bucks cheaper which one should i buy? thanks
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Hey everyone.. i asked a question week ago for my current cooler master 850w psu that is it good enough for my build?.. i am using that supply for quite a while and people said that it is a really old supply i shouldn't use it anymore.. that got me scared.. but since i just bought a 3080ti i can't buy a new supply right now because of my financial issues.. my friend has a seasonic 1050w psu and he is giving me that for very cheap and I don't have to pay him immediately. So i am attaching the picture of both psu .. my current cooler master and my friend seasonic psu.. please suggest me if i should switch to my friends psu. My current psu My friends psu My specs Ryzen 5 5600 Rtx 3080ti 16gb ddr4 ram
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Hello, From the past few days I am facing High mains voltage in my area 250V+ (Normal is 230V 50Hz). So I got a Voltage stabilizer/AVR to use with my ups (Its an APC UPS that doesn't have AVR even though it advertised that it had). The shitty UPS just outputs whatever it gets on mains, when mains hits 260V it outputs 260V without trimming it. Now the thing with the AVR is that its high cutoff is 250V after which it engages AVR and rapidly drops the voltage to 220-230V. It does this instantly but when voltage on mains goes back up it takes 30sec to switch off the AVR, so even if voltage jumps between 249 and 251 it doesn't go on switching on and off. So now my question is that will the sudden trimming of voltage from 250 to 230 cause any damage to the PSU? Other things connected to UPS (Ups is connected to AVR) are the monitor and inkhet printer. UPS Model: APC BX1100C-IN AVR Model: APC LSW1200VA PSU Model: ANTEC EAG PRO 750 (Rebranded Seasonic Focus GM)
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BACKSTORY: Hello! I woke up the other morning to the sound of my son trying to create an electrical fire with cola and 120v ac. I narrowed his system down to being okay aside from a dead evga power supply which seemed to be tripping a coil. Having a spare Seasonic SSR1000GD on the shelf, but far overkill for his i5-8400 and 1650 setup, I pulled the m12 Evo 2 unit out of my pc and put it in his case. This of course left me needing to install a unit in mine. THE PROBLEM: With the SSR1000GD I noticed only too late that it had third party cables (i bought it from an IT clearance), but they're not labeled. I intended to buy cablemod cables after new years, but would like my PC in the mean time. My question is, does anyone have a pinout for the 24 pin and other style connectors for the motherboard? This way I can verify my PSU cabling is correct, and can be used without component killing risks involved. I'm adept with wiring, but my experience is automotive and I'm not sure where to find a good source for pinouts, but my fluke and I are ready if anyone can help. Thanks so much for taking the time to read, and any insight provided. TLDR; I need motherboard pinout so I don't fry my shit with aftermarket cables.
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Hi, I have the below soecs i7 9700k gigabyte rtx 2080s gaming 8x2 GB DDR4 @3000MHZ Seasonic Focus 650w Gold Im having micro stutter issues when playing some games (NFS Heat, BO4, CoH2), while other games run fine (Overwatch, the division 2). I noticed that the coil Whine coming ouy from my GPU goes away for microseconds when stuttering happens. Tried everything, DDU, different cables, No OCing, all drivers updates, temps are fine. default bios and NCP... I believe i have sufficient PSU.
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My Seasonic PSU came with the "paperclip" dongle, but it shorts the pins 3 and 4, not 4 and 5 like many other websites suggest when searching for "How to turn on a PSU without a motherboard?". Am I safe to use this paperclip adapter with every psu since 24pin is the same each time, or this is only for Seasonic? Thank you for the answers!
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Recently I'm a bit worried that my 650W Silverstone gold isn't enough to to power a R5 3600 with a 3080. So I did some research, Outervision - a site I usually use gave me 600W actual power load with my build. But I decided to try other calculators even ones from PSU makers to just be sure...on boy the results are all over the place. so here is the table in order of Source. Calculated load. (Recommended PSU) Cooler Master 602W (650-850+W) Corsair N/A (650-1000+W) BeQuiet N/A (750-850W) (750W unit showing a 82% load) Seasonic N/A (850+w) Newegg 800+899w (up sale much??) PC part picker 589W Outervision 596W (650W) [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMKfY9) That's a 300 W difference between lowest to highest estimates... I can fit another low end PC in here...
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My Seasonic power cord while it is connected to the psu and it certainly feels snug, it wiggles a bit if I apply a bit of force and it looks like it is sagging. The cord is not brand new and it seems that it got a little bit saggy due to its own weight over time. Will it cause issues over time? Like a loose connection?
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So, since I have seen this I have been in love with these things and really want them in my upcoming build but I can't find anything to tell me where they are, Does anyone know the latest update on this cause I am really interested in them. I have tried to look around I can find a listing on Amazon where they are like 200 dollars and are not from Seasonic so that just seems sketchy at best. If anyone knows any details it would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello! I need a cable for a new GPU (since I've sold my old cable with my old GPU, don't ask me why, I'm dumb), here is my psu: CORE GM (seasonic.com) (the 500w version). I've found this: adaptare 35118 20 cm Grafikkarte-Stromkabel 8-pin-PCIe-Stecker auf 2-mal 8-pin-(6+2) Stecker schwarz: Amazon.fr: Informatique but idk if it's the right cable, it seems to be but I want to be sure before buying it. Edited because I putted the wrong link...
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So I was transferring my old Seasonic Platinum PSU to my new build when I decided to test the PSU with a a PSU tester I had on hand just for shits and giggles. The tester reported that the unit was supplying 5V SB power even when the unit was switched off (as in plugged into AC powr but the switch on the PSU was off). This seems a bit odd to be so I thought I'd check to see if this was normal. PSU model: Seasonic SS-760P2 Active PFC F3 PSU tester: Thermaltake Dr. Power 2
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I am looking to replace my 7 year old PSU. My case has an unusually short PSU bay and my spare RM750x v1 does not fit with all the cables attached. I am looking to get a Seasonic Focus. However I feel the prices of these things aren't right. I knew someone bought a Focus Plus Gold on sale for $50Cdn in 2018. The platinum version was also on sale for around $80Cdn. The GX-550 today on newegg costs $110 and the PX-550 costs $125. Are these scalper prices? What do these units normally go for before the shortages?
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psu Is an S tier 500W PSU fine for 550-600W rated cards?
ionme posted a topic in New Builds and Planning
So building my beautiful 5600X centered SFF build I stumble upon a challenge, as people often do with these things. On one corner there's the Seasonic SGX 500W Gold, with its 10 year warranty and 100$ price. On the other there is the Corsair SF600 Gold, with a comperatively little 7 years and a comperatively big 130$ price. It's also apparently a little quieter which is a nice bonus. What graphics card you're running stranger? You might be thinking. Well the market is nuts at the moment so I'll buy one when the prices are reasonable in a few months time (fingers crossed). But then the budget wouldn't ever allow anything beyond a 3070 with 3060 and 3060 Ti being more reasonable choices (or maybe the corresponding AMD models should they ever be announced). Power spikes on 30s series cards have me a bit worried. Also I'd really like for the core of this build lasting about 8 years and upgrading the gpu down the line, with something like the 1060 of the future in price and I suppose wattage, so I try not to think about it too much, maybe wrongly so. The Corsair looks reliable and certain, but I really really like feeling smarter than people who spend 300$ on a 1000W PSU to go with their 1650Ti for "future proofing" and I don't know If that certainty is worth 30$. On the other hand, 500W is probably enough for my system if the S tier on the Seasonic means power spikes won't matter, but being only an enthusiastic newbie I thought I'd ask you guys.- 11 replies
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Recently I installed some 16 AWG cable extensions from Cooler Master and my voltages dropped a bit after that which is normal as per laws of Physics. Now in idle voltages are +1.8 V 1.824 V +3.3 V 3.328 V +5 V 5.016 V +12 V 12.038 V But during gaming it drops to +1.8 V 1.824 V +3.3 V 3.328 V +5 V 4.996 V +12 V 11.994 V They are near the Advertised limit, that drop is what is bothering me.
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I have a homebuilt computer that consists of an AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X CPU that is cooled by an NZXT Kraken X62 water cooler, a Gigabyte AORUS Gaming 7 motherboard for the X399 chipset, a Radeon Pro WX 7100 graphics card, and it is powered by a Seasonic Prime Titanium 750W power supply, all inside a Cooler Master Trooper case. The system has been running flawlessly for three years, except for a few early Blue Screens of Death and a disk queuing bug from Microsoft Windows 10, and it has been everything I have ever wanted in a personal workstation. A few days ago, the computer was running by itself as usual, consuming around 270 Watts while running CPU and GPU computing tasks in the overnight hours. Nothing was touching it, and the monitor screen was in standby. I heard the system going into an idle state, like it does when I tell Windows to Sleep or Shut Down. The GPU fan stopped, the case fans and the NZXT fans stopped, the power supply clicked off, and the computer went quiet. The red LEDs that are on the fans inside the front of the Cooler Master case, and all of the red RGB lighting on the motherboard remained lit. The USB ports on the rear of the motherboard also continued to be powered, as my external hard disk was still receiving power for its standby state. There was no error code displayed on the motherboard. At first I thought that Windows had done some sort of update and triggered the machine to go to Sleep. I touched the keyboard, which was also still lit with its RGB lighting, but there was no response. I pressed the Reset switch on the case, and then the power button, but still there was no response. I went to the power supply and turned its power switch to Off, unplugged the cord going into the power supply, and tried to start the computer, but got no response. I unplugged all of the cables from the rear of the machine and pulled it away from the wall so that I could open the case, and tried again with the room lamps on. This time I got a brownout condition with the lamps dimming and a hum from the power supply, but no start. I cycled the power supply switch to Off, unplugged the power cord, and tried again. I got another brownout and heard the same humming sound from the power supply, like the computer was trying to start, but the system would not power on. I unplugged and reseated the two power cables going from the power supply to the motherboard, and tried again. There was no start, no hum, and no brownout. I tried once more with the CPU power cable disconnected from the motherboard, but again got silence. This Gigabyte motherboard is designed to power-on with the CPU power cable disconnected, and will show a red warning light on the board to indicate that there is no CPU detected. At that point, I decided to stop because I believed that the power supply was not providing sufficient power and that the problem was becoming worse. I ordered a new power supply and am waiting for the upgrade before I try starting it again. The motherboard flashes its white RGB LEDs across one bank of RAM slots and the AORUS logo when I turn the power supply switch to On and have the 24-pin cable containing the grounding wire connected to the motherboard, which indicates that the motherboard is ready and is receiving electricity. I assume that the power supply can send a trickle of electricity, but that the capacitors are not charging enough to start the whole system. Would a failure of the power supply be an accurate diagnosis for this problem?
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Still upgrading soon will be done. Spec's so far: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory(F4-3200C16D-32GTZR) MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD(Game storage) Western Digital 8TB hard drive(WDC WD80EDAZ) (Upgrading) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Creative Sound BlasterX H6 USB Gaming Headset Windows 10 Pro SteelSeries Stratus Duo Wireless Gaming Controller Logitech M720 Triathlon Wireless Optical Mouse (Upgrading) Looking for a good wireless gaming keyboard Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: 6X Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 V2 ARGB fans
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I'm having a random problem with the computer not posting with the CPU debug LED lit after a forced restart it posts but now I'm getting a message that says "Memory over clock has failed" but I only turned on XMP I have the memory voltage set to 1.35V I had to manually set the timings of the memory kit to match what they are rated for but it seems like 3200MHz and even 3133MHz is a no go it's stable with memtest86 at 3200 but still won't post at random with the CPU debug LED on and there's only one short beep once the CPU debug LEDs stays on but other times there no beeps at all and no picture on the screen I'm lost it can't be the memory if it passes memtest86 right? I ran a full system stress test for over two hours and it always passes even with the memory at 3200MHz I never had a computer fight me this much before. I could put the old memory kit back in but even that kit won't run stable at rated speed no matter what motherboard is used. I have already replaced all the hardware in my computer besides the CPU and I was having random memory related problems with this CPU in my other system. Once the computer's booted into Windows it works fine it's only that random time once the computers been off all night could I have a CPU problem? The memory kit is supported by my motherboard I checked on the MSI's site for my board. Spec's: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 32GB 3200MHz Memory MSI Radeon RX 5600 XT GAMING MX 6GB MSI MAG b550 Tomahawk Motherboard MSI MAG CORELIQUID 240R AIO Liquid Cooler Seasonic FOCUS GM-750, 750W 80+ Gold PSU Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe Gen 4 SSD Western Digital Blue 4TB hard drive(upgrading to 8TB) Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Sound Card Windows 10 Pro Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital RGB Black Cooling Fans: Phanteks SK120 DRGB PWM FAN X4
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I've narrowed my choices of new PSU down to the EVGA P+ 1300 and the Seasonic Prime 1300 Gold as they both seem good and I can get them for about the same price. Which of these would you go with and why?
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Hi, For few days I am noticing that my voltage in Bios and HWinfo is going below 5V and 12V @4.996 and 11.991. Now I hooked up a multimeter to a spare molex female plug and read the voltages and they were as stable as they can be @5.04 and 12.07 Also yesterday my brother bumped himself on my PC case while I was playing Forza and PC restarted but didn't post. I thought that ram may have come loose so I reattached it and all is working fine. Also bios was not detecting correct amount of ram so I reset it. So what kind of issue is this? psu is antec eag 750 gold motherboard is x570 pg4 by Asrock Cpu is ryzen 3500 Ram is 8*2 TridentZ rgb 3600 Aio is castle 240ex argb
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I have to choose between 3 PSUs: Seasonic S12III 650W, Corsair CX650M, and Cooler Master MWE 650. All are 80+ Bronze. I think the cooler master one is DC to DC. im not so sure about the others. Which one do you recommend?
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I've been trying to see if this a case of an exposed wire, without taking the psu out. I used a magnifying glass and saw that it was a tiny nick but couldn't see an exposed wire. I took two photos, one that shows the nick (it is blurry so it probably looks like debris) and the same photo with the chipped section under a shadow (to see if the the nick shines). Do you guys think that even though it doesn't shine under indirect light, do you think the cable could be exposed? I think it was because my case's usb-c front panel connector which the edges were pointy and rubbed against the cable (a pcie power cable) Here are the photos:
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I'm running Windows 10 Pro, with a 3400g, 6600xt Red Devil, a B450m pro-m2 max, and what I think is the problem my seasonic s12III 500. It usually restarts when playing demanding games and stress test. It also never gives me a blue screen and just hard restarts
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Hi! I'm looking into building a new PC and I'm wondering what 850W PSU should I choose. After a lot of research and going through prices and availability I've narrowed it down to the Corsair RM850X or the Seasonic Focus GX 850W. The PSU will power an overclocked Ryzen 9 5900X and an overclocked RTX3080. I have a couple of queries to clarify before placing the order. From my research it looks like some Corsair RMx PSUs are manufactured by CWT, which is a bit inferior when compared to Seasonic. Is this correct? Checking out the PSU tier list (https://linustechtips.com/topic/1116640-psucultists-psu-tier-list/) it looks like the Focus series had some issues with tripping due to power spikes from the RTX 3000 series. Does this concern the whole Focus series, or just the PX models? This might sound dumb, but is there a difference between RMx 2018 Black vs RMx 2018 White? From the tier list it looks like the 2018 white model is an A+ Tier PSU. I can get both and the 2021 model (if that's better). Thank you!