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Any idea how to cover this up without making it look ugly? Accidentally nicked it while fiddling with the usb headers. It’s a zotac gaming rtx 4090 extreme airo. I know it’s a minor scratch but it goes full argb on me so it’s quite noticeable. I’ve tried using a paint pen but the paint doesn’t stick on the scratch itself, but on the surrounding areas where I don’t want the paint to go lol. I’m grateful for any ideas on how to cover this up without making the gpu look ugly. Thank you all in advance. 72562044380__8E04C591-2C37-4BD7-BD4D-2BC98663AB40.MOV 72562044380__8E04C591-2C37-4BD7-BD4D-2BC98663AB40.MOV 72562024620__B74BC6C0-941B-4748-B8D5-721E6D015DC0.MOV

Bought this MOBO for a great price and trying to repair it. There is a scratch at the back from what I assume is some weird screw installation mishap but it doesn't seem deep. Do you guys think this will still be okay?

Well let's kick this off with saying whoops. I might have gotten a little annoyed at a game and hit my monitor. Kinda stupid of me but luckily it was on the bottom at the taskbar literally being nowhere I look I just feel stupid and a little concerned. Is there a way I can fix this at all? Or like it's so small hardly noticed it when I threw my mouse . Any help? 20230928_215128.jpg

Cleaning the dust out of an Xbox 360 and decided to replace the thermal paste on the CPU die and I had some Arctic Silver Céramique lying around. Application was uneventful, but then I got curious and looked up the ingredients of Céramique, and it contains zinc oxide, boron nitride, and aluminium oxide. Zinc oxide is relatively soft, but boron nitride and aluminium oxide are relatively hard and have the potential to leave scratches in the CPU die, which I don't want.

So recently I was just minding my own business on my pc when my cat who is only a few months old comes in my room and eventually comes on my bed then she goes on top of my pc case and then I decided to pick her up and my cat Desperately tries to cling onto my pc scratching it i checked and it looked like it was impossible to remove so are there any ways of removing scratched on a pc case?

So I'm using scratch and i want certain sprites to stay in one background is there a way to tie certain sprites to certain backdrops?

As you can see in the image, I scratched my motherboard and doesn't work properly, as in it doesn't turn on but does receive power from the PSU. The only way it can be turned on is if I put my finger around the top left and create a power bridge. Now my question with this is. 1) What type of professional should I look for in order to fix this and how much should i expect to pay? 2) Even if I fix it, would it be safe to use or should I get another mobo regardless?

I have an MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus motherboard I bought last month, and when I was checking the cables to see if they were all plugged in, I noticed what appeared to be a small scratch on it. I'm very paranoid when it comes to building my PC, as this is my first time doing it alone. If there is a scratch, I'm wondering if I should buy a new one for the peace of mind.

I just de-lidded the CPU and GPU on my CECHE01 fat PS3 yesterday morning. The CPU was far more difficult, as expected. When i finished removed the IHS off the CPU, I discovered I scratched a corner of the die face with the metal paint knife I used to cut the adhesive. When I saw the scratch on the corner, my heart sunk immediately. Nevertheless, I applied new thermal pads and thermal paste everywhere and reassembled the console. I plugged the console in and it booted up no problem. I ran a Blu-ray movie in it for just a few minutes to see if anything would be amiss, nothing unusual did. My concern and/or question here, is will this PS3 become a ticking timebomb in any way by having the corner of the CPU scratched? The scratch was significant enough to remove a bit of the silver layer on the top of the die, but it wasn't a deep gash by any means. Unfortunately, I did not think to take any photos before I reassembled everything. I have yet to boot up a game after this de-lidding process, and I have not yet used the console heavily in any capacity. I would ultimately like to know if the thermal paste will somehow corrode that one scratched corner and ultimately brick the console. Or is there any risk of some kind of electrical/ fire hazard with the CPU in its current state? Any advice on what I have explained would be much appreciated. I am not familiar enough with damage tolerances of CPU and GPU dies. I plan on booting the console up again tonight and seeing if there has been any change in the last 24 hours after the de-lid service.

So I got this build mostly finished up, I was in the process of troubleshooting some stuff and in the process of tightening the mounts for the CPU cooler down with pliers I scratched the board. Beforehand it seemed to be detecting the RAM but afterwards it seemed like it wasn’t detecting it at all. How bad did I screw up, or did the RAM and/or motherboard become defective on their own somehow?

So my friend is building a PC and while trying to unscrew the M.2 screw they somehow managed to scratch the motherboard, twice. If someone could please tell me if it's okay or not and if it is how we can possibly fix it or get it replaced.

Probably a daily thread here at this point, but still. Scratched my mobo by accident, don't ask how it has happened, it's embarrassing. Am I screwed now? I didn't cut any traces, it seems, but that piece of copper makes me nervous. Will only be able to try to boot it in 3 weeks, so can't just test it. Any input will be appreciated.

Hi everyone, I'm starting with Scratch with this script to draw triangles wich so far I made it correct, but now I would like to improve my script by setting to change side length by 10 everytime a new triangle is draw. Eg: set to draw one triangle side length will be 10; set to draw two triangles first will have sides length 10 and second will have sides length 20; set to draw three triangles first will have sides length 10, second will have length 20 and third will have length 30; and so on… The next triangle will be drawn 20 steps away from the top corner of last triangle I have tried setting side as a variable but never made to change side properly, if anyone could amend my script would be great please! Script below: define sides move (10) steps when [space] key pressed set [no of triangles] to [3] repeat (no of triangles) pen down turn ccw (60) degrees sides turn cw (120) degrees sides turn cw (120) degrees sides pen up turn cw (120) degrees sides move (20) steps turn cw (60) degrees end

Scratched my motherboard while doing a repair and now screen overheats and turns off after a couple minutes. I know this is the culprit tho since I already switched out the screen and still same issue. Is there any way to fix this?

After looking around on the forum I finally got the time to post this buildlog. It is a build I did together with a friend for MSI, with the help of Corsair and Intel. This build is all focused around not having a too flashy system yet still have a great looking rig. So because this is 2017 and not 2016 more, RGB function still is nice but having a stealth pc is more our thing. The name of the project was thus made Black Matter. The parts of our project you will see later, but let’s start off with the renders:

Woohoo! Refund season, time for a new PC! For my upcoming (waiting for Ryzen) build I'll be doing a combination of photo editing, 4K video editing and graphic design in Adobe, as well as some gaming. For internal storage I'll be installing two 500GB m.2 NVME drives in RAID0 as my boot drive, a few 500GB SATA SSDs (also in RAID0) for games, and a 3TB HDD for photo/video mass storage. I'm also prepared to allocate as much as half of my boot volume as either a scratch volume for my programs or cache for my HDD–I don't really anticipate any projects larger than 300GB in total size, but I'd like to have a bit of headroom. If I'm not mistaken a scratch disk should be more consistent for fast reads within the designated programs, but a cache volume would (somewhat less consistently) speed up reads in a wider variety of uses. Is this an accurate summarization? Which configuration makes more sense for a video editing workflow? And does 500GB of total scratch/cache space sound reasonable, or way too much/too little? Some sage storage advice is greatly appreciated

Hello again! It's time for new project, this time modding my previously made chassis from few years back and it can be found HERE. It seems that all metalwork pictures are broken in there but I will fix them in near future, but for now you can find all the pictures in here Picture gallery of Project [No Name] As I said the chassis will stay the same and here are pictures of the original plans with dimensions and the finished product. Plans for the current reboot build are fitting an ASRock X99 motherboard, two GPU's and full custom watercooling for GPU's and CPU. I have been planning this for few months now and I have managed to get ASRock, Aquatuning, Alphacool and Phobya to sponsor this project! ASRock is giving Fatal1ty X99 Professional Gaming i7 motherboard for this project! Aquatuning, Alphacool and Phobya sent their first care package later this week and this is what I got Sorry for low quality pictures, camera is broken so bare with me for little while Alphacool Eisdecke top and tank are so nice looking and just perfect size for this project with Alphacool VPP755 pump This is it for now PROJECT SPONSORED BY

Where to start? Preamble So I saw Linus' Mineral Oil Build Log when it came out and I thought it was amazing. When it came to doing my A2 Project for Graphics (UK) I was obsessed with Mineral Oil PC's. The only Problem being, I was a Graphics student not a Resistant Materials student. So without any thought on the matter I switched to fulfill my stupid fantasy of making a Mineral Oil PC from scratch. I have plenty of CNC experience but no wood or metal working skills to speak of. I have built a couple of PC's before which were quite high end, but have never water cooled let alone oil cooled. Concept I Initially wanted to copy the Puget Systems build idea as it would literally just involve me Laser Cutting and gluing Acrylic panels. This idea was superseded by imagination and ambition which got the better of me. I decided the easiest way to achieve a high grade in a subject I have not much experience in was to create a circular design... Anyway its use is as a media server for my Dad and the design must fit in with his house (Hardwood was everywhere). Airflow for the Rads is one 120mm outtake fan with a vent on the back, and a 5mm gap in the lid for the difference in air pressure to draw air in. I was banking on the system being low power enough for the 400l/h pump and thick rad to keep the oil cool. I know the spec isn't really server focused at all but I had to next to no funds to build this after buying materials. Spec List I know the spec isn't really server focused at all but I had to next to no funds to build this after buying materials. I had a Budget of £400, which I found later was not nearly enough as Mineral Oil is sooooo expenisve. I persuaded my school to give me a grant of £100 for the oil. The rest of the money was spent on the spec: - Phenom x4 965 - MSI Twin Frozr3 R7850 - 960GM-VGS3 FX - 128gb Non branded SSD - 1Tb HDD - 120mm Magicool Rad - Phobya 220 12v Pump - Blu Ray Slim drive - Windows 7 64bit - 8Gb DDR3 - 450W CoolerMaster PSU (I think I removed the sticker so can't quite remember now) Materials The only thing I had to buy pre-made was the acrylic tube for £60. The wood was sourced locally and is an eclectic mix of Hardwoods. I spent £30 on copper piping and fittings. Another £25 was spent on switches and wires. I had to perfectly laser cut a circular disc to fit perfectly inside the tube and then glue it in place. I also laser cut the hanging piece of acrylic and bend it to a right angle to mount everything. The upper section was Laminated together from wooden rings I cut out from the hardwood. I had a fair amount of help to build this due to my inexperience. Finale Well unfortunately not quite. I started the build in Jan 2016 after much planning. "Finished" in May 2016. I say finished because it was only finished to the level of allowing me to get a grade. Unfortunately the GPU artifacts horrendously after installing the drivers. After Messing about for hours before the deadline I found out the problem is the PCIe connection. I don't know whether or not the Motherboard or GPU is broken as wiggling the card around in its slot fixes it incredibly briefly. This is probably my fault as the I/O shield had to be scrapped to finish the build in time and as such the card is zip tied to the wood to stop it wobbling. Because the GPU is broken I didnt put the oil so I also don't know if the pump system works annoyingly. I believe this is what you call a 50ft mod. I am incredibly proud of how the PC turned out but when you look inside at the mounting system you can tell the rush and manic solutions I had to find to finish in time. Aftermath For those wondering my practical grade was a B due to the interior being very rushed, but my overall grade was an A. I have just got the computer back and intend on finishing it but just need to save up for a GPU and fix some fittings and pray to god the oil hasn't gone off or something. As well as the pump working and being fast enough to keep everything cool with only 1x 120mm rad (although it is very thick). I did test the tube for leaks with water, but I am slighlty worried about oil dissolving the glue or heating up with the system and leaking somehow (When i eventually put it in). Pictures below of water test, and system booted into a BIOS. So yeah hopefully I can fully finish it soon! Photos

As I really like seeing scratch builds myself I decided to post one of mine builds. The reasons this thing even exists is mostly me having parts lying around and the fact that I wanted to play 4 player coop games on my TV. It had to be exactly 30x50x21 centimeters to fit into my TV-rack. Coming to the speccs: I7 860@ 3,8 GHz - 29€ from "german craigslist" (ebay-kleinanzeigen) Asus P7D55D - 40€ from ebay Crucial BallistX Sport 8Gb Kit - 29€ offer on Otto.de Corsair CS 430W - 30€ on mindfactory.de (If I recall correctly) Sandisk SSD 240 GB for 49€ on Conrad.de Palit Geforce 770 GTX Jetstream for 69€ on ebay.de Fans ~ 30€ Caseking.de Fan Controller 15€ Caseking.de And about 20€ for some wood ________________________ That's about 310€ Here is a concept: Which didn't work out entirely, but it was a good point to start at. Front / Backside, holes for the fans. My patented drill connection kit, which was super ghetto and super dangerous. (It's a miracle I didn't cut myself doing this. The drillhead could actually fall out as it didn't have any connection to the drill itself.) The connector is by the way a part of a screwdriver connector with a dull bit hammered in. There is a testfit. I'm sorry I could not provide any more pictures of mounting the sides and the fans. Though if you're interested: The fans were mounted directly to the wood by drilling a large hole that could fit the screwhead. The hole wasn't drilled all the way through, the last part was done with a smaller drill that just fit the actual screw itself. Some people might notice that the parts for the testfit arent the ones described above. I had these lying around and mATX is mATX right?! (Yeah that did not work out in the end) Realizing I managed to put one fan in the wrong way. Drilling holes into the top because the CPU cooler was too large to fit into the case. And testfit. After some sanding and the first coat of paint. If you're wondering why the inside did not get painted is because I wanted the LEDs to get a better reflection surface. More or less finished painting, mounted the fans. Now with most of the parts installed. This is what it looked like from the inside before remounting all the hardware as the other mainboard was slightly larger and therefore needed to be turned around. And yes I needed to redo the holes in the top. Another perspective. The shelfspace in the back is where this needed to fit by the way. This is the PC today sitting there doing its buisness. I need to repaint the shelf though as it is a tight fight and I damaged the finish a bit :(. The finished product playing some DS3! I hope you liked my kind of low budget wooden PC box. I myself had a lot of fun building it. If you didn't manage to spot the "On-Switch": There is none. It starts via Wake on LAN. Though that once went horribly wrong as Windows 10 decided that my LAN driver was outdated and installed a new one that did not support WoL. Yay. By the way I got better over time working with wood, I made a case for my NAS which now looks like this:

Is it okay that I scratched motherboard or is normal and there is no damage to pcb outside this screw holes.

Unfortunately the first pic I'm uploading of my new PC isn't of anything good. After watching a Bitwit video of how to install the Wraith Spire cooler because the included instructions weren't specific enough regarding orientation. I realized that the AMD logo which IMO should be the top of the cooler is now overhanging the RAM. Optimistic, I tried removing the RAM to calm my nerves but sure enough it interferes. So I decided I'd simply unscrew the fan from the heatsink as I don't have any spare thermal paste & honestly don't have the money either to buy that anytime soon. The lower right screw's position forced me to insert the screwdriver at an angle & it slipped, making a small scratch between the CPU socket & the RAM. So in order for me to not worry myself to death in the coming days, weeks, months & years about unsure damage, I've got some questions to ask before carrying on with the build & overclocking log. 1: So far I've had it on & running fine for over an hour, even installed Windows 10. If that scratch caused any actual damage would I of noticed the effects by now? 2: Would the manufacturers warranty still cover replacement via RMA if the motherboard started to malfunction in the future because of this damage or something else? 3: Would they even notice something this small or should I just not mention it if I do need to RMA someday? 4: Can the Wraith Spires fan be rotated (I've tried seems pretty solid) so it can be re-positioned or what was I doing wrong? 5: I lost a little snip-it of a zip-tie somewhere in the case, maybe even PSU, is this anything to worry about?

Hello and welcome to my first real build log! My project is a ultra small form factor but full desktop PC with PSU (modded TFX one) and a total volume of only arround 5,1 Liters. The overall project is inspired and maybe in some way designwise similar to the Zaber Sentry, but I couldn't wait for a offical release and I wanted to take the small form factor idea a bit further. (even though it limit me hardware wise) It will feature a highly modded to TFX PSU to be able to acomplish a total hight > 50-55 mm (similar to the original PS4). My very first scratch was only 45 mm in hight but I hat to leave some more headroom for bigger fans and a bit of diviation . The system will be packed with an R9 Nano and Haswell I7 CPU, admittedly a I7-4790T, because I don't want to spend 350€ for a more or less unnecessary CPU upgrade and could it later on if I want to) . The case is designed from scratch and will be made out of (probably 1-1,5 mm thick) steel. Wich will probably powder coated, with a bit luck even by myself. Only the cuts for the metal sheets and the 8 bents in total will be made by professionals and I'm DIYer at best without much experience yet for this kind of project. To cool the system I will pack it with a total of 6 case fans (5x 50mm , 1x 140 mm) , and maybe some costom made shrouds (or I separate GPU the GPU) to route the airflow for an indirect cooling design of myy TFX PSU. The case shouldn't block any cooling vent even in a horizontal position without big casefeets! That's the idea so far Part List Hardware: CPU: I7 - 4790T - already owned GPU: Saphire R9 Nano 4GB HBM - already owned MOBO: Gigabyte Z87N-Wifi - already owned RAM: 2x 4GB GeIL EVO Legara 2400 mhz - already owned (actually 8GB is enough for me most of the time, editing is a way of passing time at best and I had these laying around so.....) PSU: Seasonic TFX-350 350W - already owned (already disambled unused for some months and discharged, have to build some kind of new case and make a newadjusted cable lengths) Storage: 1x 500GB Crucial MX200 mPCIe Sata SSD (mPCIe SSD in a 2,5" Adapter) - already owned 1x 120GB Samsung 840 Evo SSD 2,5" - already owned (I might not ad this one at the beginning, I don't really need it I can deal with a small amount of starage and have a NAS for huge data) Cooler: Option 1: Thermaltake Engine 27 (yeah I mean this odd aluminum heatsink/fan thingy) - not owned yet, should had arrived on 11th of November .... it seems to arrive later (I maybe make an unboxing, benchmark compared to the Noctua NH-L9i with it ) (if 1 fails Option 2: Noctua NH-L9i Heatsink+ 140mm Noctua Casefan - already owned) Case Fans: 1x Cyorig XT140 140x140x13 mm Fan (a bit weak for my taste with only 1300RPM, maybe I figure out how qaulity build the brushless motor is and mod a little Fan Overvoltage for it) 5x Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentFan XS2 50x50x10 Fans / GELID Silent 5 50x50x15 mm Fans - not owned yet (I don't really like the UV glow and the blue/purple color but the 50mm Fan market is kinda limited so I probably have to live with it or paint them ... even that isn't ideal, maybe the glow even looks nice who knows . The Gelid ones can only go in this rig when its safe that I have enough room for cables) Screws/Nuts: A bunch of Black anodized aluminum screws - already owned (they are hella expensive for some M2,M3, M5 and a Dome Nut ... almost 35€ for ≈ 25 tiny screws) Metal Parts: Design is still under developement, but nearly finilized, will be water jet/laser cuted... and I have to deal with a local buisness for professional bent and such The current design in SketchUP Note that colors aren't fixed at all (alright the power button and screws are fixed black ), I just don't wanted to work with plain white. I could safed some more space in the with maybe even enough to get 300m in width, too. But than I encounter problems to find a position on the back for the Power plug. The Back I would probalby had to use a different kind of plug but a small 2-Pin is out of question. I will go with it this way. As you can see I don't use any ventilation holes ad the back (sure the Nano has some) thats because I want to cool my PSU indirectly. No holes at the back to safe up as much preasure as I can. To get an quick idea how I want to organize it inside. Most of the cables will take their way under the Motherboard, thats one of the reasons I make a whole new wiring harness to get rid of the unnecessary cables. (and because mine is rainbowy as fu**) I will post in little updates here and there and will make bigger posts to show the current state from time to time.

This project has been stalled, I will not continue working on it! Technically I'm only building a part of a PC here, but I think it's complex enough to warrant it's own build log. (Mods, if this doesn't fit here, please move it!) So we all know vandal power buttons like these: They've been used in quite a few mods by now, and I'll use one in my next case, but they are a bit boring. So, what about having a switch like this, but with RGB LEDs that can be individually controlled? That's what I'm working on right now and the plan is as follows. The switch will fit into 16mm holes, have 12 RGB LEDs and a micro HDMI connector on the side that connects to the mainboard headers (PWR_BTN, HDD_LED and USB_2) with a modified micro HDMI to HDMI cable. Everything in the switch will have to be custom. The casing, the ring, the internals, the firmware, everything. I'll also make a small command-line tool for controlling it via USB. Short demo video: This is a short demo video of three effects on the current prototype. Try out the online Visualizer 0.2 here! Uses: This button might be used as a regular button that just lights up in exactly the colour I want it to, but it could also serve as a minimalist clock, as a spinning loading indicator when a webpage is loading or as an Xbox 360 style indicator of how many controllers are connected. The two header connections for the PWR_BTN and HDD_LED mainboard headers are multi-purpose, so if I used multiple of these buttons, I could either control an additional LED with either of them, or perform an action when the button is pressed. The possibilities are pretty vast.

Hello, This is going to be kinda quick because it's late but I'll include as much as I can. While my pc was doing stuff, I wanted to change cpu fan orientation on my beQuiet Pure Rock heatsink. While releasing the fan holder things it kinda snapped off because it was tight and slightly forcefully landed on my motherboard, and i think it touched the back of the gpu too. The pc immediately shut off and it doesn't turn on anymore. It's typical fried symptoms : no leds, no response to power button, nothing. Upon inspection i saw that 4 motherboard traces were scratched enough too feel them with my nail(I'll include a pic). While desperately trying things to bring it back, my friend suggested I see if any chips get hot. And one did. It's an ITE chip, and it's connected directly to the tiniest scratched trace. So i was thinking if there's anything i can do at all? Before i pack it? Thanks in advance.

Hello, While my pc was doing stuff, I wanted to change cpu fan orientation on my beQuiet Pure Rock heatsink. While releasing the fan holder things it kinda snapped off because it was tight and slightly forcefully landed on my motherboard, and i think it touched the back of the gpu too. The pc immediately shut off and it doesn't turn on anymore. It's typical fried symptoms : no leds, no response to power button, nothing. Upon inspection i saw that 4 motherboard traces were scratched enough too feel them with my nail. While desperately trying things to bring it back, my friend suggested I see if any chips get hot. And one did. It's an ITE chip, and it's connected directly to the tiniest scratched trace. I'd like to add that i tried the PSU 2 pin shorting thing and it turned on. Also when everything was alright and psu was on, the mobo had breathing leds. Now as i said no leds turned on but the ITE chip does get hot when power is connected, even if there's nothing installed (no gpu cpu ram just power cables. So i was thinking if there's anything i can do at all? Before i pack it? Thanks in advance.