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  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
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  • A techy blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Noob Builder
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  • New Cars Review Blog
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  • Windows on a laptop?
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  • B1tKru5h3r (My workstation)
  • Ultraretrotech
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  • Xenift's BuildVille
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  • MrUnknownEMC's Christmas Giveaway
  • shadowbyte
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  1. Hello! So a few days ago, I received my Schiit Modi and my Schitt Magni Heresey in the mail, and for the first few days they were working and sounding amazing. This morning however, I wake up to find my schiit AC adapter (the one that came with the magni) buzzing. I'm not sure why, I never did anything to break it other than plug it in. I'm more concerned about whether it broke the amp or not, I haven't turned on the amp yet this morning. Here's a video of the buzzing. I'm wondering if I should contact schiit, and have them send me a new one, or find another power supply on the market that's a better alternative. Thanks in advance. edit: So I just tested it now. The AC adapter does still power my amp but the noise from it is incredibly obnoxious and annoying.
  2. Hello good people of LTT forums! I am looking into buying one of the Schiit combo DAC + amps. I currently have DT770 Pro 32 Ohm (had to run them ampless for a while so got the low impedance version) and a Steinberg UR12 audio interface. I have buyers remorse regarding the interface, since it is ugly, has a very annoying LED and spikes the headphones output whenever it turns ON or OFF. (Should have gotten the Scarlett Solo but it was out of stock at that time...) I am wondering will Schiit DAC + amp combos (Fulla and Hel) cause any spikes when turning ON or OFF? Also, is Hel worth it for the extra features it has? Another question on my mind, DT770 have a max input power of 100mW, so would I have to keep the Fulla below 50% (max power is 200mW on 32Ohm) and the Hel below 20% (max power is 1200mW on 32Ohm) or am I completely misunderstanding that?
  3. Here is my take on a Budget Headphone Audiophile Setup. Enjoy. :)
  4. I have a plan. I have been wanting to get a Hi-Fi setup for a seriously good time now and I found a multipurpose configuration that seems to be a good idea for me, yet i can't find anyone online that has the same configuration so I'm unsure about the functionality of it all. I am hesitant because for one, i don't know if the Amplifier will drive the headphones. Let me break it down for you guys, this is my planned setup: Source: Mac Pro 2010 (optical or USB) or PS4/PS5 or Turntable DAC: Schiit Modi Multibit Amp: Schiit Vali 2 Headphones: Bayerdynamics DT 1990 Pro For starters, I'd like to ask whether anyone knows for sure if the Schiit Vali (or Magni for that matter) can drive the DT1990's, has anyone tried this pairing? And can give their opinion on this setup? I have another question regarding gaming, this setup is thought to be a multipurpose setup (all kinds of music, video editing, gaming, movies, etc) so I'd like to ask if anyone has used the Modi DAC with PS4, does anyone know for sure if it works fine? What about lag, does a setup like this present a problem with audio lag when gaming on a console? My reasoning behind this setup is for one the price, as i think is a reasonably priced solution, but also that I've heard the top notes with the DT1990's can be too bright, so i thought the tubed amplification could help mellow it out. I also wanted to ask for recomendations for a high level but low price turntable, as I have inhereted quite a vinyl collection, and I would love to pair it up with the Vali tube amp. Any good and aesthetic recommendations?? My last question is, does the Modi multibit really present beefits vs the normal version? I know DAC quality really makes a difference yet the price difference is pretty steep, which i am willing to pay if it's worth it, so is there really a substantial difference worth the price difference?
  5. Preface While I had hoped to have this review out after about a week or so of solid listening, my plans did not account for what Valhalla 2 had in store for my ear holes. In short, Valhalla is the real deal, and much more so than I could have anticipated. Although I expected a tube amp to sound “different” from the solid state gear I was used to, experiencing well-implemented “tube sound” for the first time was a bit more than I was prepared for. If it sounds like I’m hyping things up, it’s because I am. Let’s get to it. Introduction Valhalla 2 is a class A, all-triode, output transformerless headphone amplifier. This just means that it is a pure tube amp. It also omits a transformer at the output, which would normally serve to effect impedance-coupling with the load. Instead, the topology is DC coupled from input to output, and employs output capacitors. As is typical of of such topologies, Valhalla puts out the majority of its available power when driving a high impedance load, and is capable of large voltage swing - 16 Vpp. This makes the amp a natural pairing with high impedance headphones. What to expect from owning a tube amp Tube amps are different from the solid state gear most are used to. First and foremost, the tubes in the Valhalla themselves run hot and require a few seconds of warmup before listening. That said, there is no need to wait for tens of minutes before listening to music; while the tubes do take 10-15 minutes to reach temperature, 30-60 seconds is plenty long enough before blasting angsty anime tunes. The body of this particular amp becomes warm but never hot, as there are no components directly using the case as a heat-sink. In contrast, Asgard and Lyr both use the case as a direct heat-sink for the toasty class A mosfet output stage. Tube amps are also inherently noisier and more distorted than solid state. However! This does not mean that tube amps are necessarily “tubey”; Valhalla has less than 0.2% distortion, as confirmed by real-world third party measurements. This well below the level where it would cause an amp to sound overly “lush” and not likely to have a significant impact on real sonic performance. The signature of the amp is in no way warm or rolled-off, either. That said, be prepared for a little extra noise floor with a tube amp. There may also be a little audible, low-frequency hum coming through if the ambient noise floor is very quiet. None of this is an issue when actually listening to music. If it is, the amp is defective or the tubes need replacement. Sound Impressions I did most of my listening for this review using a variety of music (including minimally mic’d acoustic) over the following chain: Exact Audio Copy > FLAC > Foobar > WASAPI > USB > Bifrost 4490 > Valhalla 2 > HD 650. I also did a bit of listening with the Beyerdynamic DT 880 Pro to get some perspective from a brighter can. A note on how I describe sound - I don’t like to go balls deep into elaborate descriptions of sonic qualities, like “fleshy” mid-range, “musical” tone, or “scintillating” oboes. At the end of the day, you just need to try this shit out for yourself if you want to know what it really sounds like to the last detail. Dynamics / Impact / Slam Valhalla does pretty well with dynamics; I feel like musical peaks are a bit less compressed compared to Magni 2 Uber, but it difficult to pick out the difference. Bass impact seems a touch reduced, however, at least with the stock tubes. Rolling in different tubes improves matters here; more on this below. Clarity / Attack / Focus In terms of clarity, I get the sense that there is a little bit of a haze to the sound. This could be tube microphonics, or just general tube noise. Either way, there’s no doubt that cheaper amps can sound more “clear” than Valhalla. That said, attack transients don’t suffer much from this lack of clarity; the “haze” isn’t enough to take the edge off or obscure detail. Resolution / Contrast Detail is always tricky to describe; outside of the very lowest of budget gear, it’s rare to hear things that “weren't there before” with a new setup. With that in mind, Valhalla is able to present the detail that IS there like I haven’t heard it before. Timbre and texture are very well defined and differences are distinct. Ambient sounds and spatial cues are also very apparent. Part of this is probably the slightly energetic treble; but something I’ve noticed as I’ve explored incrementally better amps is that I’m able to turn up the volume more with better amps before the sound becomes fatiguing. Low-end stuff tends to sound harsh and shouty when turned up, without providing additional detail to compensate. Headstage / Imaging / Separation This is the first thing that I noticed on listening to music through Valhalla and probably the best thing about it. It actually imparts width and depth unlike any amp I’ve heard so far. The presentation is airy and slightly diffuse, but still with precise imaging and separation. “Holographic” comes to mind as a descriptor, as sounds seem to emerge from and float in the air. This works particularly well with the HD 650, which has a relatively close stage for an open headphone. Orchestral music sounds properly expansive and there is less spatial compression during loud passages. Even better, highly compressed pop and other “wall ‘o sound” modern genres gain some welcome separation and layering. If you’re wondering how an amp can change soundstage, I couldn’t tell you; it may have something to do with tube microphonics. What I do know is that this isn’t placebo. The difference in staging was literally jarring when the music first started playing through this amp. Tonal Balance Overall, Valhalla is pretty neutral, other than lacking a bit of oomph down low. There is a touch of treble grain at times with the stock tubes. Not enough to be fatiguing, but you notice it is there. This is a minor issue, and it is resolved easily by rolling in a better tube. The stock tubes also feel just a touch light in the bass, which might also be described as soft or lean. As mentioned previously, a simple tube roll alleviates this. Mids are nice and full, which gives nice tone to the instruments that hang out in this range. Tube Comparison Valhalla 2 takes four tubes, two input/preamp/driver tubes, and two output/power tubes. There is not much point in rolling the output tubes as there are few options and what options there are make little sonic difference by my research. The input tubes offer more options and based on reports of good results with the 6CG7 tube family, I chose a pair of tubes made by Electro Harmonix. I purchased the tubes from tubedpot.com: https://www.tubedepot.com/products/electro-harmonix-6cg7-eh-gold-pin-preamp-vacuum-tube Stock 6N1P Tubes Slightly lean or more likely lacking in impact Airy, diffuse presentation and 3D headstage Good imaging and separation Very resolving, textured Slightly hazy Slightly grainy or rough treble Electro Harmonix 6CG7 Gold-Pin More bass slam and a touch tighter bass Staging might be more centered between the ears Smoother treble, but still energetic Slightly laid-back upper-mids and maybe lower-mids Details are retained Instrument timbre seems slightly inferior due to a touch more coloration, but the overall balance is better Summary Strengths Headstage, imaging, sense of space Mid-range tone; outstanding for male and female vocals, low strings, piano Resolution, texture, and dynamic contrast Weaknesses Slight lack of clarity; hazy Rough or grainy treble at times, particularly stock Lack of ultimate slam, speed, and impact I think I can best quantify the upgrade in performance with this amp with a direct comparison to the Magni 2 Uber. If the Magni provides 5% of improvement overall, Valhalla 2 is on the order of 30%, if not more. The benefit of Bifrost is also multiplied through this amp, which compounds the benefit that each component brings individually to the system. Bottom line, Valhalla is by far the first amp I’ve tried that made a significant, positive difference in sound quality. Magni 2 Uber is boring in comparison, and stuff like Fiio doesn’t bear mentioning. Conclusion Sounds damn good. Good value. If people are spending $1k and up for headphones with arguably less sonic merit, this amp is a no-brainer at $350. Reveals the capabilities of the Bifrost 4490 and the value that a better DAC brings to the table. EXCELLENT synergy with Sennheiser HD 650. Enhances the warm mid-range while extracting detail and increasing headstage. Brings out the best of the Beyerdynamic DT 880, but does no favors to the elevated treble; would probably kick ass with the new Amiron Home, though. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to owners of high impedance headphones such as Sennheiser HD 600/650 and many Beyerdynamics. Disclaimer This is NOT a sponsored review and I am in no way affiliated with or compensated by Schiit.
  6. I recently acquired a used Schiit Bifrost 4490 and have been listening to it for the last week or so. I feel I have enough of a handle on the sound to give some succinct impressions versus my previous DAC, the Modi 2 Uber. This DAC has been around for a little while already, so I offer this mostly as a point of interest to other forum members or people that haven't jumped off the deep end with DACs just yet. My current chain is Exact Audio Copy > FLAC > Foobar > WASAPI > USB > Bifrost 4490 > Magni 2 Uber > HD 650. I listen to a variety of music, including minimally mic'd classical. I'll be getting a Valhalla 2 in the near future, and will update my impressions if I have anything to add at that point. Background and Technology So what makes the Bifrost worth buying over a Modi, you may be wondering. These are the stand-out features: Upgradability: both the DAC/output section and USB input section are on modular cards. So far, Schiit has offered upgrades at or below the cost of their Modi line. The Bifrost is therefore not a dead-end product, in theory. These upgrades include Schiit's own proprietary multibit implementation. Bit-perfect clock management: the Bifrost switches the DAC chip sampling rate to exactly match the sample rate of your music. This ensures that the original bits are preserved for dat fidelity. Power supply: the power supply is bigger, mounted internally, and has more filtering. Analog section: every DAC has an analog section that is responsible for filtering and boosting the analog output of the DAC chip before sending it off to downstream equipment. The Bifrost 4490 features a fully discrete analog section with no capacitors in the signal path. Build and aesthetics: whereas the Modi feels a bit like a toy, the Bifrost is way beefier and feels like a real piece of serious equipment. It is made of much thicker aluminum and stacks nicely with the mid-size Schiit amps. Now, the impressions. Dynamics / Impact / Slam Bifrost is the winner here. With the Modi 2U, the loudest portions of say a full orchestra piece tend to sound a bit flat and compressed, both in terms of volume and space. Bifrost handles these peaks without sounding notably congested. Bass hits a touch harder and digs deeper, with more texture. The Tron soundtrack by Daft Punk, which is challenging for a headphone like the HD 650, is improved in terms of staging and bass texture. There is more foundation and rumble to all tracks with deep bass. Clarity / Attack / Focus Bifrost again pulls ahead, particularly in the treble. Cymbals and other high percussion tends to sound slightly blurred on the Modi 2U, whereas they have more focus and delineation with the Bifrost. Imagine the difference between the impact of a thrown bean bag versus a dart. The Bifrost is not fatiguing, though. Resolution / Contrast Yeah. The Bifrost resolves things like instrument decay and ambient cues better, even at lower volumes. In general, sound has more texture and faint timbrel changes are more apparent. The Bifrost digs into the music more; with my limited vocabulary of pithy audio descriptors, I can only call it more "crunchy". Headstage / Imaging / Separation This is the area where the Bifrost brings the most improvement over the Modi 2U. It may sound crazy, but I'm hearing more space between sounds with the Bifrost. The slightly closed-in sound of the HD 650 is partially alleviated with the wider, more open presentation. Obviously it will not turn Beats into an HD 800, but I do feel it moves the staging of the HD 650 a bit closer to my previous main headphone, the HE-560. Tonal Balance I get the sense that the Bifrost with the AKM 4490 chip is in effect ever so slightly V shaped. While I'm sure it would measure flat, the combined effect of the above points means that it has a little more punch and sparkle relative to the Modi 2U, which is itself slightly lean. I enjoy the pairing with the HD 650 so far. Conclusion I managed to snag my Bifrost for a mere $220 shipped. A Modi 2 Uber is $150, while a Modi Multibit is $250. In other words, I got a really good deal on a good DAC. I think the $400 MSRP is a more difficult value proposition. Even though I pointed out a lot of positives above, I would say the overall improvement in my current system was 5-10%. Maybe 15% on certain tracks. It's also possible that I imagined the whole thing and NwAvGuy was right all along. The point is that the price-performance curve is not that great if buying new. This is alleviated somewhat by the fact that the Bifrost is upgradable, and these upgrades have so far been pretty affordable. I also have to point out that while the Bifrost provided only an incremental bump in overall performance, the "improvement" from my Modi 2U was even less noticable; 1-5% max. But I stand by my standard recommendation: get the best possible headphones first, and an amp to drive them. Then, if you decide to dive down the endless rabbit hole that is high end audio, think about buying a DAC. For me and my system, the purchase was worth it.
  7. Hi. I've been looking for a dac for a while. As for now, I have 2 options: 1. Get schiit modi 2 + magni 2 (local dealer, so the price is double, and uber versions are out of budget) 2. Get dac\amp combo - fostex hp-a4. Costs same as above I don't really know which option is better, because I didn't listen to any of them. So what's the best way to go? Thanks.
  8. So about a month ago I asked you guys if I should get new headphones and got a resounding NO but instead you guys told me my audio would sound better if it was fulla schiit... So originally I was going to buy an RX 580 this month and the fulla 2 next month but Chinese coin miners had something to say about that so now my audio is fulla schiit. You guys were right, this does sound good. Thank you.
  9. I am currently going to buy a Schiit stack and was wondering if the Vali 2 is worth the extra money over the Magni 2. The dac that I will be using with them is the Modi 2.
  10. Hey, I don't know if anyone owns the Schiit Lyr 2 but any input from anyone is appreciated. I was looking at the Valhalla 2 because I was thinking if I invested on the Vali 2, I'd probably feel like I'm not going far enough to power my HD6xx. I am thinking of visiting a local store called "Headphone Bar" located in Vancouver to see what the Lyr 2 is like. I would order from Schiit but our Canadian dollar is like plebescent. Headphone Bar doesn't have the Valhalla 2 unfortunately. I'll go there to see if they would make the order and see what the final costs are too. My questions are: How does the Lyr 2 compare to the Valhalla 2? Would the Lyr 2 be overkill for HD6xx? Thanks. I'm most likely going to go for the Valhalla 2. I just need to wait for the right moment when our Canadian dollar isn't so crap.
  11. Hey all, I've had a Schiit Modi 2 DAC for over a year now and it recently stopped being recognized by my Windows 10 PC. The power led still comes on when it's plugged in but is not recognized by my PC at all. I tried it on another Windows 10 PC, a Macbook Pro, swapped cables and nothing has worked. I have contacted Schiit's support team last week but have yet to hear anything from them. Any ideas on what could be going on?
  12. So a few weeks ago I got a Fulla 2 for my audio systems and now I am looking to replace my mixer. So I use a mixer to take in other audio (like my phone or laptop) as well as my Yeti Pro which uses an XLR. Now with the Fulla though it uses a USB interface which can't use my Mixer. So can I get something else to take my XLR and something else to take in my other audio on an individual basis? or am I just being dumb and have it set up wrong. I am happy with Schiit products but any reputable company I am cool with if I have to replace anything. or is a software fix? Okay, thanks! Sorry if I explained badly I would be glad to try an explain better if there are any questions.
  13. So I bought Schiit Fulla 2, pretty good little guy, with a lot of exposed holes in chassis for ventilation and apparently for tea. Spilled some herbal tea on that thing (really not much) it popped and is broken now. I live in Eastern Europe and pretty much nobody heard of Schiit so nobody can really fix it without proper schematics. Sending it to US (where I bought it) would cost me nearly half the price of a new one + possible out of warranty repairs + shipping back, might as well buy new one. What do? Should I just send it to a tech shop for them to try and fix it even if they break it or should I just bin it? Sell it for parts? While it's not that expensive it's still a lot of money for someone like me and I would like to salvage this boi and make it work again. Any advice?
  14. I recently bought and SMSL M3 for my HD598's, which seems perfectly fine for now. I have plans on buying the Monolith M1060s though if they go on any sort of sale and I will definitely need a better amp for those. Theoretically, could I have the SMSL M3 as a dac (I really don't think I'll need a better dac) and connect the line out to something like the magni 2? I plan on getting that since honestly, if I like the monoliths as much the hype is saying (which I'm hoping I like them since I'd be ok with those being my endgame), then I will probably never buy a more expensive or difficult to drive set of headphones (HD650's at most after this probably since I'm never going to be able to buy something like an LCD-X.). Not sure if I'm going to be modding the monoliths either, other than taking out the foam under the outer grill (too afraid to damage drivers by doing tape mod and I don't want to spend $80 on earpads as of right now, especially when I have to glue them). Also if there are any suggestions of a similar amp to the magni 2 (around same price, not including the O2 because that goes for more and everything is front port...), that would be appreciated. I'm looking at a B-Stock magni 2 for now since I don't care a minor cosmetic error. Thought about getting a SAP-8 but not sure if it has the current to drive planars.
  15. I'm chasing the elusive SOUND experience from my console. Has anybody on this subforum installed Schiit products to their XBox One device? What are your reflections about it. Please, try my survey. Thanks, eh.
  16. Hey Guys, I recently bought the Sennheiser x Massdrop HD 6xx's. I already got a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which should be enough to get them fairly loud, yet a dedicated Amp will give the 6xx's a better sound overall (more defined and so on). Now I dont want to spend more than 200$. So the best Amps in that price range would be the Schiit Magni 3 Schiit Vali 2 JDS Labs Objective 2 Little Dot I+ Little Dot MK 2 (Sales not included, Massdrop may Drop some of these) What do you guys think? They probably are all great, but if some of you have hands on experience let me know. Sincerely 5chmidti
  17. So I was wondering whether to get the multi bit modi 2 or the modi 2 uber or if I should get the o2 dac/amp. They are all in my price range and I can get any one of those but i was wondering if the multi bit could bring up possible problems? I was also wondering if the modi 2 multi bit and the magni 3 would work together as well as if the multi bit will really improve audio quality. Thank you!
  18. I have the Schiit Vali 2 tube amp and the headphones I'm using are the Beyer Dynamic T90 Jubilee (might replace these with the sennheiser hd 650s as i find the t90 too sibilant). Using on-board as dac, motherboard in my signature Should I upgrade my amp to Asgard 2 /Valhalla 2 (I have no idea if I prefer tube or SS) or buy a dac like the Modi 2 or the Bifrost? Also what is the difference between the Bifrost and the Bifrost Multibit?
  19. I’m looking for an AMP or DAC for my headphones. I’m looking at the Schiit Magni 2 and Modi 2 setup. My budget is those two combined, ~$240. I’m asking because my motherboard is the ASUS Crosshairs VI Hero which has a binned ALC 1220 DAC on there. It sounds impressively good as an onboard DAC so I’m wondering if I can just forgo the Schiit DAC and just get the AMP. The headphones itself is 45ohms so it’s pretty easy to drive anyways. Should I just get the Schiit amp, amp+dac, or a more expensive amp alone? Don’t need anything crazy just something good for the HE560. Thanks
  20. Hey guys, I've been wanting to buy new speakers for a while now. But I can't really chose. I'm looking at the Audioengine a2+ and the q acoustic 2010i with Schiit magni 2 and their dac. What would you guys recommend ? Or do you guys have other options. (really want white/grey speakers )
  21. So i'll be getting a higher paying job, and down on my "to buy" list is a better setup, and audio is a aspect of that, so i had PLANNED to buy the: -Schiit Valhalla Headphone Amp -Schiit BIFROST Dac -Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO, 250 ohms However from what i've heard the 770's aren't good for gaming. So can anyone please share some, closed back, Over-ear, No attached mic, Gaming headphones? [Gaming as in they are Good "For games"] (I will be listening to music also, and movies/etc, But i'm just curious on the gaming headphones aspect for now) (Price doesn't really matter, but i want to be blown away by the upgrade >.> As to date, My "best" headphones have been the Philips Performance SHP9500, as long as the new headphones aren't like.... $1,000)
  22. I'm planning on buying the BD 1770 pro, but I'd like to buy an amp/dac combo, because my onboard sound card is quite bad. Is the Schiit Fulla 2 appropriate, or do you know a better option for under €200? Also, do you know any good sources to buy it other than the suspiciously schiity-looking website of Schiit Europe? Edit: What about the SMSL M3? Or perhaps Fiio E10K?
  23. Hey all, I'm new here and trying to get into the "audiophile" world with my first setup. I was wondering if any input could be provided on what I've gathered so far for a decent setup, as far as best bang for buck. Budget: 300-400 Headphones: HD6xx DAC: Modi 3 AMP: Magni Heresy Source: TUF x570-PLUS I was torn between buying the Modi 3 and Heresy or just the Fulla 3 by itself. From my understanding (and what Reddit has explained to other people) it is better to buy DAC/AMP separately but I'm not sure. So many different opinions and recommendations, it's hard as a real first timer to get into it.
  24. What's the point of an analog equalizer like the Schiit Loki or JDS labs Subjective 3. They cost quite a lot of money (100$ and 150$) so they gotta have some advantage over a software eq tweaking the signal before it gets converted, right?
  25. Hi fellow members, Today is a great day. It's Thursday! I would like to ask for your help regarding the choice between the Schiit Fulla 3 and Magni Modi stack. My headphone is a Sennheiser HD599. So not a lot of power is needed. But I like sound quality. At the moment I am using my Shanling M3s as my DAC/AMP combo. It sounds very good, but I don't want to trickle charge it =( (someone has an idea how I can make a data only USB-C Cable?) That would solve the problem. Thanks!
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