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I just recently bought a Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 15ARH05 and, when battery capacity is at 25%, all of my games are limited to 30 FPS. I have went out of my way to turn off Battery Boost in GeForce Experience and battery saver on Windows 10, and it works fine when the battery is full, but whenever my laptop reaches 25% battery, the framerate drops down to 30 FPS. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated.

So pretty much every time any game performs an autosave (or in games that allow it, manual saving) I'm getting mini-freezes for like a few seconds. There's also hitching whenever entering new areas or doing stuff like discovering rooms or tagging collectibles. This is happening across games - currently I'm playing Hitman 2 and Batman: Arkham Origins and both games suffer these issues. Never had this problem before and I played both titles previously on this machine without an issue. My rig meets all requirements (see specs below), I'm running the latest Nvidia drivers, Windows is up to date. No disk errors or fragmentation on the HDD the games are on. I've even reinstalled the drivers manually as people say the GeForce Experience app messes things up. What's going on?

So basically I've built new computer, it's been like two months since I've built it, it doesn't look like it has problems or anything, But when I play games, it sometimes goes to power saving mode, I only have GTA V, League of Legends and Roblox, but it happens only in league and it even happened in Roblox! im really confused why. Here are my specs: Evga GTX 770 2 GB H81M-K Kingston 8 GB 1600 MHz Xilence XP700R7 i5-4460 3.2 GHz LG 19 inch Monitor 1280x1024 HDD Seagate Barracuda 250 GB (Idk health is not 100 I've checked it before, don't remember the exact digits of current HP.) This happens only when I play certain things, I've also downloaded MSI Afterburner to check on how much temp CPU and GPU goes. League of legends: High graphics, GPU:55~60T CPU: 50-55T GTA V: Normal Graphics, GPU:60~80T (depending on interactions) CPU:60-65T Roblox (funny enough), GPU:50T CPU:40T I have also ran stress test and gpu goes at 80 temp max. It doesn't seem to be overheating or anything but I haven't solved this issue of power saving mode, also when it does that, fans start spinning crazy and I can't do anything until I force shut down and reboot. What causes this? Could it be the reason of monitor? maybe 80/100 (or something like that) Health of HDD? idk, I want to fix it as fast as possible cause I've been saving money for a long time and I don't want anything bad to happen. P.S I play Roblox cause of my little bro, don't make funny comments. :D Thanks in regard. :)

Hello everyone, A good friend of mine is currently having an issue when playing Arma 3. Every time he plays he has to put his game settings and controls back to how he wants them as every time he closes the game they don't save. Additional to his settings not saving, his progress in game does not save either. If he tries to edit the notepad file for his settings it won't let him save it unless he runs notepad as administrator. He has an error when he tries to save pictures and such from the internet to places like his picture folder it says 'You don't have permissions to save in this location. Contact the administrator to obtain permission' This comes up even though he is the administrator and the only account on the PC. He's on Windows 10 64bit. Thank you.

Hey everyone. Here is a really simple one for you today - Like I probably know how to do it myself - its just been a long time since I've coded in C#. How do I get a file to save? I've got a template text file (a simple .txt) - imported it to the program - did some processing (i.e split the lines, added each new index to an appropriate list) - made some edits (read in the original line I wish to edit in the txt file - made a change - refreshed the lists and the change is there). However, I can not for the life of me figure out how to get it to save the text file. I have been taught it in university - but I just can't seem to get it to work. The dialog appears, but when I chose to save over a file, it gives me the confirmation, but no changes occur. I've tried saving as a new file - but even then the new file doesn't appear in the directory I've chosen. Heres my "Broken Save Code" private void saveToolStripMenuItem_Click(object sender, EventArgs e) { saveFileDialog1.InitialDirectory = currentDirectoryName; if (saveFileDialog1.ShowDialog() == DialogResult.OK) { fileName = saveFileDialog1.FileName; } } Again, Really stupid, probably really simple. But any help would be appreciated

Hi. I have a powerful enough computer (I7 6800K, 64GB DDR4, GTX 1080 Ti, Samsung 960 Pro SSD), but when I am working on larger projects in Illustrator or InDesign the saving process takes a lot of time, while the system is not even close to overload. The RAM is almost empty, the CPU is relaxed and the drives are very little busy. I want to see full load on the SSD and CPU but to save my projects as fast as possible... this is why I have invested in 64GB DDR 3000 MHz and M.2 SSD. Any opinions? Thanks.

How much to spend and where? This list will cover what I believe to be the best way to split your budget for a new PC build. The budgets I'll be covering are £400, £600, £800, £1000. I'll leave how much in pounds (£) I recommend spending and the rounded percentage (%) of that component. Feel free to comment what you think below, I'm sure people will appreciate the help. Lets-a-go £400 £400 is a kinda low budget but that doesn't mean you have to have a bad pc. In 2019 you should be able to spend that much and play games at 1080p and 45fps, 30 in more demanding titles at medium settings. A good way to split your budget would be: £80 CPU (20%) £55 Motherboard (14%) £40 RAM (10%) £35 Hard drive (9%) £120 GPU (30%) £30 Case (8%) £40 PSU (10%) Here's a link for a similar priced build. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor £75.50 @ Aria PC Motherboard ASRock B450M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £52.74 @ Amazon UK Memory G.Skill Aegis 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory £38.47 @ Amazon UK Storage Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £35.58 @ Aria PC Video Card KFA2 GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB OC Video Card £114.57 @ Amazon UK Case Xigmatek Scorpio MicroATX Mid Tower Case £29.35 @ CCL Computers Power Supply be quiet! System Power 9 400 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £39.08 @ Amazon UK Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £385.29 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-08 18:56 BST+0100 £600 £600 is where you can really go for high/ultra settings at 1080p 60fps or start dabbling in 1440p at lower settings or frame rate. For this budget I'd recommend: £140 CPU (23%) £20 cooler (light overclocks can help) (3%) £60 motherboard (10%) £55 RAM (9%) £35 Hard drive (6%) £25 SSD (4%) £185 GPU (31%) £50 case (8%) £50 power supply (8%) Parts list: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor £145.99 @ Amazon UK CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler £23.99 @ Amazon UK Motherboard Gigabyte GA-AX370M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard £59.99 @ AWD-IT Memory Crucial Ballistix Sport AT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory £53.90 @ Amazon UK Storage Patriot Burst 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £26.99 @ Amazon UK Storage Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £35.58 @ Aria PC Video Card XFX Radeon RX 590 8 GB FATBOY OC+ Video Card £184.99 @ Amazon UK Case Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case £50.37 @ CCL Computers Power Supply be quiet! System Power 9 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply £48.03 @ Amazon UK Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £629.83 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-08 19:08 BST+0100 £800 At £800 1080p 60fps ultra is basically guaranteed in all games. 1440p 60fps isn't unrealistic and most games will run as well as you want them too. While £600 is what I recommend for first time builders, £800 is where most people should be aiming in order to be future proofed for a while. Prices I think suit this budget are: £215 CPU (27%) £30 cooler (4%) £65 motherboard (8%) £55 RAM (7%) £35 Hard drive (4%) £30 SSD (4%) £250 GPU (31%) £70 case (9%) £50 PSU (6%) Here's a link: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor £217.98 @ Aria PC CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler £23.99 @ Amazon UK Motherboard Biostar TB350-BTC ATX AM4 Motherboard £64.47 @ Scan.co.uk Memory Crucial Ballistix Sport AT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory £53.90 @ Amazon UK Storage Western Digital Green 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive £30.00 @ Amazon UK Storage Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £35.58 @ Aria PC Video Card Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card £249.97 @ Amazon UK Case NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case £67.98 @ CCL Computers Power Supply Cooler Master MasterWatt 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply £50.99 @ Ebuyer Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £794.86 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-08 19:21 BST+0100 £1000 £1000, that's a fair bit of money, but it does mean you shouldn't have to upgrade for a number of years. That can balance out the numbers if you're willing to go without the newest and best hardware for a while. Performance wise you can expect 1080p 90fps, 1440p 60 in most AAA games and over 300 in some eSports titles. Basically £1000 will cover you in all but the most difficult to run games at 1440p. At this budget, steaming games and video editing also becomes a lot more viable I think you should spend roughly: £315 CPU (32%) £30 cooler (I would recommend an I7 that isn't overclockable) (3%) £65 motherboard (7%) £55 RAM (6%) £35 Hard drive (4%) £40 NVME SSD (4%) £325 GPU (33%) £80 case (8%) £55 PSU (6%) And the final link for today: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel Core i7-9700F 3 GHz 8-Core Processor £316.98 @ Amazon UK CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler £23.99 @ Amazon UK Motherboard ASRock H370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard £68.88 @ CCL Computers Memory Crucial Ballistix Sport AT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory £53.90 @ Amazon UK Storage Kingston A1000 240 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive £42.33 @ PC World Business Storage Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive £35.58 @ Aria PC Video Card Sapphire Radeon RX VEGA 64 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card £326.54 @ CCL Computers Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case £91.09 @ Overclockers.co.uk Power Supply LEPA MaxGold 700 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply £54.70 @ Amazon UK Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total £1013.99 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-08 19:40 BST+0100 Thank you all for reading, any comments are appreciated.

Hi Everyone, I haven't done any programming for a while (like upwards of a year to a year and a half or so), and decided to try and make a program to convert a collection of images to a PDF. The program should work - and I believe it will work, however - I seem to be having an issue when it comes to saving the file. With my code, I can get the program to run and execute fine, but when I go to save the document with a SaveFileDialog, the document doesn't save. I could be missing something extremely simple, but cannot seem to be able to figure it out. As such, I was hoping people on the forum might be able to help me out. My program's concept was based around this video, but modified by me so I can see the images loaded in a ListBox and preview the image when clicked in a PictureBox (That bit works fine), using code from the link below the video. It's just the document saving/output I seem to be having. Unlike the example, I do not want to hard code a save path or file name, but use a SaveFileDialog. Just as a note, to do the PDF Conversion, I am using the PdfSharp library (like the one used in the video in the spoiler). Here is my code: Thanks for your time and input. This issue is probably me being stupid...

Hi, I tried to play on my monitor (LG Flatron E2250V) but, each time it displays " HDMI - Power saving mode". I tried using safe mode but it still displays the same error on my monitor I tried to plug the PS4 to another monitor and it works, from here I tried to change the quality from Auto to 480p and 720p, I also tried to desactivate the HDCP option. My monitor isn't broken because I can use it on my laptop and I also tried to use another HDMI cable.

So I'm currently playing 2 games mainly - Hitman 2 and Mass Effect 2. The former on a Barracuda 2TB 7200rpm and the latter on a WD Enterprise edition 2TB 7200rpm. Everything was fine until I replaced my old mouse with a new Logitech G102 mouse (or at least the onset of problems coincided with that change) about halfway through these games. Here's what the problems look like: Hitman 2 > Almost every time the game autosaves (which is very frequently), or when I do a manual quick save and the moving barcode appears on bottom-right the game freezes for a few seconds, then resumes. The moving lines on the save animation also freeze in place, so its not just the in-game world that's freezing. This also happens whenever I 'discover' a new area within a game map, but I guess that's tied in to the save feature somehow because the discovered locations on the map carry over between saves. Besides this I've no other problem with the game. Mass Effect 2 > Firstly, the load times for each section/map/level take a lot of time. But its not consistent, some levels load very quickly (like they used to before the problems began) but some take forever. Even though they're of a similar size/composition as each other like for example the Normandy's 3rd & 4th levels from top (where Garrus & Grunt stay respectively). > There's also some momentary hitching/freezing in-game as I walk into doors. But quicksaving/manual saving in ME2 doesn't seem to cause any hitching or freezing whatsoever. So the issue in Hitman seems Write-related while ME2's problems seem more Read-related. I'm also playing some other games on the side like Civilization 6 and that game doesn't seem to exhibit any apparent problems. I've only started it after the problems with the other two games began and Civ6 does take a bit of time to load the world initially but I don't know if its abnormally long cuz like I said I didn't play it before. Things I've already tried: > Replaced the new mouse with the old one again, problems still there. > Flushed all the RGB/settings-control software that came with both mice, restarted. > Did file integrity checks for both games via Steam & Origin client tools respectively. > Error-checked both disk drives with Properties>Tools>Error Checking. Performed defragmentation on both, twice. What's most perplexing is that the two games are on two entirely separate HDDs. I'm out of ideas...help?

This isn't really for me but for everyone who comes to this thread. I haven't seen a thread for websites/programs to save money on PC parts or pc building, so i made this thread for people to link and or help me and people with finding these websites/programs. Any help is appreciated thank you.

I just upgraded to a new laptop and, on battery power, all of my games are limited to 30 FPS. This new laptop is a HP Omen 15-CE015DX and has an i7-7700HQ, 8GB RAM, and a GTX 1050 Ti. I upgraded from a HP Omen 15t-AX200 with i7-7700HQ, 8GB RAM, and a GTX 1050. On my old laptop, after changing a few settings, I got my games to run at 60 FPS on battery. Upon doing these same modifications to my new laptop, 60 FPS is still not possible on battery. When plugged in, it runs 60 FPS with no stutter. List of things I've done: Geforce Experience > Battery Boost Off Uninstalled Geforce Experience Windows 10 Settings > Battery Saver Off Control Panel > Max Performance Battery Plan Nvidia Control Panel > Power Management Mode: Prefer High Performance Intel Graphics Settings > Maximum Performance & Disable Power Saving Technology Gaming Settings > Game Bar Off & Game DVR Off Tried turning off HP Coolsense Uninstalled Omen Command Center Uninstalling most of the junk included I changed a couple other things as well Is there anything I'm overlooking? I will update this list with things people suggest that I've tried, and will update if someone suggests something that works for future reference. UPDATE: I believe it is related to the 1050 ti, because upon changing the settings to use integrated graphics, the games would run at more than 30 FPS (but not 60, likely due to how weak integrated is compared to the 1050 ti). UPDATE 2: I reinstalled Geforce Experience and set Battery Boost to off. I then installed the newest drivers available (I set the update to clean install). Now my games are running at 60 FPS on battery with some weird stutter on battery that isn't present when plugged. I'll continue to experiment and update this post.

Hey friends, so my cousin asked for my help with building a computer and so far this is what we cam up with: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YXD2qs However, it's a bit too pricey and we were hoping to get some help with this. Budget: Ideally it would be great to get the price down to a sweet $800 USD Aim: Casual gaming mostly. He doesn't need Crysis 4 on ultra high 8k 4D with an Oculus and six monitors but it would be nice to run Black Ops 3 at around medium to high with at least 30 to 40fps (something that can compete with an xbox one). Monitors: Currently one 1080p monitor. Considering stepping down to a 720p monitor if it makes sense. Peripherals: Will be buying Windows 10. Any other peripherals such as a mechanical keyboard can be added later This would be an upgrade from a shared family computer to a personal gaming rig extravaganza (or something like that). My thoughts: Like I said, we would like to reduce the price and I think the best ways to do that would be by down grading the cpu, gpu, ram, and maybe the monitor. CPU: Would it make sense to go from the 8370 to something like an 8320? Would there be a noticeable performance drop? If so, would it be worth the price? GPU: Is an older graphics card such as the one we currently have on the list a good way to go? Would it make sense to upgrade to something newer with only 2gb of memory rather than the 4gb? Is there a card out there that performs about the same as the one we chose but at a lower price? What kind of performance gains/losses could we expect from going with a different card? Ram: Is 16gb necessary or does it just make sense to go with only 8gb? Monitor: If we were to select a 720p monitor, could we expect a gaming performance gain and a significant price drop at the expense of a lower resolution? Please let me know any and all of your thoughts as they are appreciated. Thanks.

I am looking to play GAMES like Fifa 15,Call of Duty,GTA 5 etc... I like blue so some for my parts are blue I live in jamaica PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/n3PYhM Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/n3PYhM/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($238.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($79.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($101.48 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($197.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($96.88 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($599.99 @ Amazon) Case: Thermaltake Chaser A31 ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: Corsair Professional 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.95 @ Amazon) Monitor: Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($264.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Gelid Solutions FN-FW12BPL-18 75.6 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.99 @ Directron) Case Fan: Gelid Solutions FN-FW12BPL-18 75.6 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.99 @ Directron) Case Fan: Gelid Solutions FN-FW12BPL-18 75.6 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.99 @ Directron) Case Fan: Gelid Solutions FN-FW12BPL-18 75.6 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.99 @ Directron) Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050014-WW 62.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($28.98 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Corsair CO-9050014-WW 62.7 CFM 120mm Fan ($28.98 @ OutletPC) Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($169.95 @ Newegg) Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($64.99 @ Micro Center) Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50 Headphones ($249.95 @ Newegg) Total: $2483.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-01 19:41 EST-0500

I need to change my powerplan and i've made my own one that has all the settings that i wanr, but every time when i restart the computer it goes back to enegry saving. I also tried to change the the settings in the powersaving plan to fit my needs but some of them (not all ) go back to default after a reset. Any solutions? Thanks (Sorry for the english - not native)

Im looks for monitors with hdmi and display port both inputs because Im buying a graphics card and it only has hdmi, display port, and dvi i outputs? thanks $250 at max

I'm getting a PNY GTX 750 TI on Monday, and although it's a very low power card I will need to upgrade from my HP 300 watt power supply. Until I can buy a new power supply, I'm looking at turning down my I7-3770 non-k in Intel Extreme Tuning Utility to save enough power to keep my system stable. The I7-3770 is partially unlocked, the only locked slider is the reference clock. Options to save power are the Clock Multipliers, Turbo Boost Power, Turbo Boost Power Short, Turbo Boost Power Max and Core Current limit. I'm thinking of leaving the 1 Active Core Multiplier maxed out and turning down the 2,3 and 4 Active Cores Multipliers. Any recommended configurations of the above to save around 50 watts? (or whatever amount of power you believe that I'll need to save?) Thanks for taking time to answer this rather strange and complex question. EDIT: Screenshot of Intel Extreme Tuning Utility @ http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac42/qwerty1237/IntelExtremeTuningUtilityScreenshot_zps318b5934.png .Sorry for non-forum link for some reason it wouldn't work.

I'm sure most of you might have heard of this but there may be some that never heard of this. So I found the perfect way to have Windows 8 on your desktop and not have to use a touchscreen monitor. https://www.leapmotion.com/ That is your answer. Use your Desktop like a Tablet. No need for a complex tablet to computer controller shizz, just plug it in and install the drivers and BAM. (i dont work for these guys but its really cool)

Just got into my first haswell overclock and im a bit confused with how to set my voltage controls. Started overclocking a 4670k in an Asus Z87-k and the UEFI terminology is giving me a hard time. Ive read in multiple guides how i should not use adaptive voltage as its pretty sporadic. They mostly suggest activating a c state specifically c7, yet when i get into the power savings menu it gets very confusing with several different states and no clear on/off option. So my question is after setting a manual fixed voltage of 1.25 and figuring the max multiplier what should i set so it reduces voltage under idle. I would be really happy if anyone with a z87-k or maybe a z87-a could help me out. Also i noticed on stock and idle not only does the voltage go down but also the multiplier, is that another power saving feature i should know about? A second also question if anyone has a similar board. Is something like 1.25-1.3 volts too high for a 4 phase VRM design? I know its extra wear on the system but i want it to last for at least a couple of years. Thanks to anyone in advance.

So I know that by default graphics cards are supposed to clock theirselves down when they are doing nothing... Well mine doesn't do so anymore... Driver issue? Overclock issue? Sensors: As you see there's no load on the GPU at all, yet it doesn't go < 888.4MHz

Buy the featured laptops on Amazon http://geni.us/sZ7C We've all read about how to extend our laptop's battery life, but in this video we find out just how much juice the most common tricks get us.

How did you earn the money you needed for your build? (Job, allowance, etc.) How much did it cost?