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Hi, one month ago I bought a new AIO, a Lian LI Galahad II LCD and I was happy with the performance, I was hitting 85c in cinebench with 220w and 5.3ghz all core with a 25 negative offset undervolt Fast-forward to a few days ago, I started having random restarts, jus sitting on desktop, or random games crashing So i just thought that the undervolt somehow got unstable and changed it to 20 negative offset and to be sure it is stable I started testing the cpu and to my surprise, I've seen a huge temp increase and huge performance decrease, hitting 95c instantly at 180w and 4,9ghz all core Things I tried: -Remounting the AIO (and somehow I managed to strip 2 mounting screws on only one thermal paste change) -Resetting and reapplying bios settings -Downgrading to the last BIOS version -Reinstalling windows Nothing changed between these temp changes, same windows, same bios settings, same everything, just randomly started losing performance I don't know where the root of the problem lies, I started a warranty claim on the Lian Li website to try and see if there was any factory problems with the AIO, being a new product PC SPECS: CPU: Ryzen 9 7950x MOBO: Asus STRIX x670E-E Ram: 32gb 6000mts TridentZ NEO PSU: 1000w Corsiar RM1000x GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Gaming TRIO EDIT: I forgot to mention that I reach 90-91c in games for a few seconds, but that's a 10c increase at least since the last time I checked

Hi all, I really hope I can get some help with this issue. It's a ramble explaining the whole timeline of this system (the last month) but theres context that may be useful to potentially diagnosing this thing.. I've tried to condense it here but I am so so tired right now, have spent 24 hours of the last 2 days trying to get this working 100% and this is all on a system that was running perfectly like 3 days ago. Right now my to-do list is test with my known good old psu, and failing that a new CPU and motherboard? I should be able to get a refund for the board but the cpu will be a harder task. TLDR: Stuck on red and yellow cpu and dram error lights and cannot POST on a system that was hard to get to boot when first assembled and required a new ram kit to boot and use. Switched to beta bios on advice of a comment and old ram worked, then I unwittingly formatted my old drive with my old windows install on it (i had previously booted this system with it as my primary drive but then moved it to slot 2 and fresh installed on a new drive in slot 1, windows in its wisdom decided i only needed a bootloader on my D drive even though both were installed when I did the clean install on the new drive). Following that I attempted a bios update and could boot into the bios but saw no boot manager. Tried to run a windows install usb in this state, multiple BSODS, now won't POST even after extensive troubleshooting, and I'm insanely frustrated because I feel like all my parts are known good whilst also being potentially what's failing or at least causing the system not to advance to post. Parts used: R7 7800X3D - bought open box from ebay, potentially sus? MSI B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI - bought new on amazon 32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5-6000 (CMK32GX5M2B6000Z30) - bought new on amazon 64GB G.Skill Z5 neo DDR5-6000 (F5-6000J3040G32GX2-TZ5N) - bought on ebay sealed MSI ventus RTX 4080 - bought used but hasn't had any issues in 2 completely different systems 3 2TB M.2 SSDs, 970evo plus (old windows install 1), crucial something (new windows install), and og sabrent rocket, all known good Thermaltake GF3 1000W - bought brand new from scan Summary of issues timeline Part 1 Assembled build with G.Skill RAM, encountering solid red or red and yellow LED error indicators on the MSI B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI motherboard. Able to get into bios once but after enabling expo, will not boot into the bios again. Tried BIOS update, CPU reseating and booting without RAM. No success. Got new Corsair RAM kit, successfully boots on first try; I confirm the BIOS did update to the latest version. Try the G.Skill RAM again, same issues Return to Corsair RAM, used pc without problems for approximately two to three weeks. (At this point, I was using a single drive, the old c drive from my previous machine (samsung 970 evo plus 2tb). I had been meaning to do a clean install with the new crucial ssd I got but it took me a bit to get to, with all the ram headaches etc Installed Crucial SSD, into m.2 slot 1, shifted the samsung ssd with my old windows install to the 2nd slot, and successfully install Windows 10 onto the new Crucial SSD. Remembered I wanted to run that G.skill ram and thought it may work now that I could boot into windows, and found a comment saying to try an older beta BIOS version (7D75v172) from June 2023; resolves all issues with the G.skill kit and I can boot it with expo enabled or with a custom overclock. Part 2 Encountered weird booting phenomenon with Windows, I prompted to choose between two Windows installations upon boot (sometimes this would happen within the blue windows UI you get when you restart to boot into recovery or whatever, sometimes this would happen in a white text on black environment, not sure if that was also windows or that was the motherboard's own boot management?. I've upgraded my C Drive to a new one and moved my old drive to a different slot a couple of times before but hadn't faced this issue and wasn't sure what to do. I kept using the system as it was for a few days and it was completely stable aside from this issue. I did not run super thorough stress tests at the time but I did about 25-30 runs of a few of the 3DMark benchmarks, as well as 3 stress tests (also thru 3dmark). Used Testmem5 for about 30 mins with no issue but obviously not the largest sample. Created a fresh Windows install usb, got BSODs three times about a minute-2 minutes into the install. Frustrated, I format the entirety of my drive containing my old windows install thru cmd, and as I didn't realise at the time, the ONLY windows bootloader/manager despite having installed windows on 2 disks. Once I realized the drive contained both old Windows install and the only bootloader, I booted and was able to get to the BIOS with all hardware detected, but no bootable drives detected at this point. Updated BIOS to latest version attempt to resolve issue. System fails to POST after BIOS update, solid yellow and red lights on motherboard with no display output. (CPU and DRAM errors iirc) Tried many BIOS updates (I have tried four or five different bioses, all of them show the normal behaviour when attempting to flash a bios through the usb flashback system but instead of eventually rebooting into the bios, the white light would just blink indefinitely, with the red and yellow error LEDs) (to be clear, every bios update I did up to this point used this method, and I used the same usb drive every time.), Tried clearing the cmos multiple times, Tried creating a livecd and seeing if it would autoboot to that, Tried reseating the CPU twice, tried with no ram, one stick, and two sticks of either kit. Tried with no gpu, tried with displayport plugged into motherboard, tried with no ssds, the old windows ssd only, my new crucial ssd with my new install on it only, and with all 3 ssds. Verified connections to the 24 pin, cpu power, gpu power etc were all secure. Unplugged all USB devices. Made sure monitor was not in sleep mode for any of the boot attempts. PC is now currently completely unable to post, and I get a solid red and yellow persistent error LED. Have let it sit like this for a while multiple times, no result. Given that I've used this system successfully, albeit with quirks, I am really at a loss.. The only thing I can think of is that the CPU is very slightly damaged in a way that causes erratic behaviour with certain bioses/ram, or that the psu is somehow faulty, although I have used this PSU from the start of the build and I've had no observable issues with it, and it's plenty of power for my system. No magic smoke, no fuses tripped etc. Any help is genuinely appreciated. Pastebin with my full ramble, may have missed something. Also, I was not aware of just how much people experience am5 compatibility issues with ddr5, so if I did something wrong there it's simply because I hadn't followed am5 hardware closely, being on an am4 build for many years.

Hey, I was wondering if the newly launched 8400F is a similar layout to the 8500G ( 4P cores and 2E cores), if no then does anyone have an idea when they will be available in Europe?

I have decided to upgrade, currently there is a 5600 in my PC already, so in that case you would say "Then the obvious choice is the Ryzen 5900x" the thing is that I also want to upgrade after that but I would need to change my motherboard anyways at the end so its the same as with the 7600 eventually there will be a need for a motherboard swap but maybe the 5900x is better because upgrading is cheaper but I also want to add more Ram to my PC and that would cost more on AM5 than on AM4. On performance the 7600 and 5900x are very similar actually kinda like the 5600 and the 3900x, but when someone wins in gaming it is the 7600 but who wins in multi-core is the 5900x and honestly I kinda care more about multi core beacuse I am a person who likes running multiple apps at the same time and several instances of Visual Studio when I do coding and the 7600 wins in x264 encoding but honestly I think it would be less loss on performance with a 5900x. (Although performance loss probably would be barely a factor here.) So yeah I am kinda divided with this because I have 32gb but because I sometimes do many, many things at the same time it fills up and 64gb ram is very costly on AM5 compared to AM4 this is beacuse AM5 has DDR5 and AM4 DDR4. In conclusion I want you guys to tell me which should I pick up beacuse I am analyzing all my choices and I am thinking to go with the 5900x but then the upgrade thing is also killing me but it is pointless because after Zen 5 probably a new socket is coming.

Hi, my os - Windows 11, Gpu- Asrock AMD rx 7800xt challenger oc. , monitor- 1440p I'm upgrading my CPU and mobo. Plz help me choosing best budget cpu and mobo for gaming which wont bottleneck the system. I want to build on AM5. please suggest cheapest AM5 cpu which wont bottleneck Asrock rx 7800xt challenger oc Gpu for gaming on 1440p. for mobos, i picked 2 - MSI PRO B650M-P and GIGABYTE B650M D3HP. Among those 2 which 1 would be better? will they bottleneck my cpu or gpu? please suggest if there's better option to prevent bottleneck in the system. Also ASRock B650M HDV/M.2 Motherboard is 28 US $ costlier( atleast in my country) than those 2 mobos , is it worth the extra cost? Also is r5 7600x worth the extra cost(18 US $ in my country) than r5 7600 for gaming? I'm from India. i use these 2 websites to buy all my components- www.vedantcomputers.com and mdcomputers.in

hi all, pretty familiar with overclocking at this point. had everything running solid with my 5900x on a crosshair viii x570 till i went into bios and tinkered with the pbo scalar. initially i was averaging 4.9ghz consistantly, eh around 80watts. of course not all cores going, most were sleeping. whatever, pc ran fine and temps were always at or below 80c under load back to the pbo scalar. so i went into that on bios, hit enable for virtually everything, set my temp max/cpu to 90. then did the "auto" scalar settings to positive and 1. reboot into windows, oh i also set the multiplyer (i normally wouldnt do it this way but fresh\new bios, whatever) to 43.00 anyway noticed under load id fluctuate from 110w to 209w and back down. it would go all over the place along with my cpu temps, obviously. having taskman open i did notice all 12 cores were at the same clock speed, sweet! although with temps hitting 90 and up, uhm, shouldnt my pc "blow up", as in immediately shut off? did a restart, this time did a negative scalar and again, 1 instead of zero. doing '-1' wasnt an option, presuming the '-' character was invalid same result! why is this as i thought a neg scalar would decrease the wattage? either settings were stable. so i let it do some cpu mining as a stress test (nicehash always "blows up" my pc if unstable during a bench). i think it got to 110 degrees max according to the phone app. obviously not ideal but i let it run for idk 6 hours, figured things would balance out since i have so much radiator surface area and a custom block for the mobo/cpu/vrm's etc etc. -why didnt my pc blow up considering my max temp is set at 85? normally if the voltage spikes suddenly (as would temp) say 60c to 94c and back to idk 70c BLOOP pc shuts off -why was so much voltage being pushed to the cpu, even without load? -how the hell was it stable! -any suggestions on how to fix the wacky wattage? -is messing with the PBO even practical considering 4.9ghz runs fine? -really any suggestions at all lol thanks peeps!

Hi, I have Intel i7 7700k CPU, so thinking to move to Ryzen now so is 7600x worth the upgrade cause I can't buy cpu now and then, so kinda making one time investment for minimum 5 years. Will this be enough to play mordern Games and do other productivity stuff in it?

I have a AMD Ryzen 5 2400g and i noticed that it only uses 20w of the 65w TDP and my GPU (GTX 1650) only uses 56w of the 75w TDP. i don't have any idea why, my power supply is 400w so it should provide de wattage. both GPU and CPU are power limited. btw my bios is stock.

Budget (including currency): ~$2,000 USD Country: USA Programs or workloads that it will be used for: Shared Network Storage & Plex Server, more than 20TB with 2-drive failure data redundancy Hello All, I'm building myself a new "home server" that will be used as shared network storage on the network for backing up the "User Documents" folder on a couple of PCs, some family pictures and other relevant docs w/ snapshots (which will also be backed-up on a cloud-based solution), and of course the family Plex server where I keep my Movie, TV Show, and Music Library. This new server is replacing my (very) aging Windows desktop tower which has an AMD FX-8350, nVidia GTX 960, 32GB of RAM, a couple of Samsung 850 Pro 1TB SATA SSD's (one of which is a boot drive), and a 4TB Raid 5 array (5x 1TB hard drives with a Highpoint RocketRAID controller). Additionally, I'm also using an external 4TB "WD My Cloud" (yes I'm aware its an unsupported security mess so it's blocked from internet access) as network-attached storage for the Plex Server app I have running in the background, and another WD 4TB USB3 External hard drive (mainly for document snapshots). It's a tangled web/mess, and I'm looking forward to all of it getting replaced with the new system: CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x, stock AMD Wraith Prism cooler (~$150) (I upgraded my gaming PC to a 5900x so I already had the CPU, but included price est. for completeness) Motherboard: MSI Pro B550-VC Wifi, Micro-ATX ($109.99) Graphics: MSI RTX 3050 6GB ($179.99) RAM: 64GB (4x 16GB Sticks) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600MHz CL18 ($139.98) Boot Drive: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD ($99.99) Western Digital OEM 256GB M.2 NVME drive ($19.99) NAS Drives: 6x WD Red Plus 6TB ($839.94) 4x WD Red Plus 12TB ($919.96) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 P5, 80 Plus Platinum 650W, Fully Modular ($119.99) Case: Silverstone CS382 NAS Case ($249.99) Peripheral Cooling: case includes 2x 92mm fans for cooling NAS drives, and a 120mm fan at the back. Also add 2x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s redux PWM fans ($33.90) System Total (w/o array drives): $1,003.83 System Total (w/ drives): $1,923.79 One key goal for me was to have around 8 drive bays for the NAS drives, so I could load up an array that allowed for a RAID-Z2 array (allows two drive failures without data loss). I was also looking for a case that wasn't huge because I'm wedging this in the laundry room next to the router/switch (Ubiquiti Dream Machine SE). After much digging I found the Silverstone CS382 case which I like because it is a mid-tower kind of size with 8 hot-swap SATA sleds supporting a micro-atx motherboard and full-size ATX power supply. It might be a <bit> bigger than I was originally aiming, but the build won't be too much trouble, and the case includes filters and a sweet backplane for power and data to the drive array. Next struggle for me was choosing the drive array configuration, and I think I did choose well but you could get a lot more storage in this thing with 20TB drives, but my budget limited me (for now). I went so far as to look at different configurations of different single-failure tolerant arrays (RAIDZ1 in table below) and double-failure tolerant arrays (RAIDZ2 in table below). Trying to keep the total cost of the drives below $1,000 (I just went with prices on Amazon for simplicity, WD Red Plus), and knowing I preferred a double-tolerant array, I went with 6x 6TB 4x 12TB drives giving me a total storage of around 24TB (36TB if I went with single-failure tolerant array). This also gives me future expansion space for four more drives in the remaining sleds, which can then bump the system up to 72TB (which still allow up to 2 drive failures). Drive HDD Capacity (TB) Price Raid Z2, 4 drives Total Cost Cost Per TB Raid Z2, 6 Drives Total Cost Cost Per TB Raid Z2, 8 drives Total Cost Cost Per TB WD Red Plus 4 99.79 8 399.16 $49.90 16 598.74 $37.42 24 798.32 $33.26 WD Red Plus 6 151.22 12 604.88 $50.41 24 907.32 $37.81 36 1209.76 $33.60 WD Red Plus 8 172.99 16 691.96 $43.25 32 1037.94 $32.44 48 1383.92 $28.83 WD Red Plus 10 199.99 20 799.96 $40.00 40 1199.94 $30.00 60 1599.92 $26.67 WD Red Plus 12 229.99 24 919.96 $38.33 48 1379.94 $28.75 72 1839.92 $25.55 Some other thoughts on hardware: Given I was already locked in on CPU, I found the MSI Pro B550M-VC Wifi which has 8x SATA connections (perfect for 8 drive bays), dual M.2, and 4x PCIEx16 slots for expansion. This was kind of my best choice for Ryzen platform mATX with plenty of SATA and PCIE slots. Unfortunately no ECC RAM though... should I be concerned? I went with a 650W Platinum full modular power supply, aiming for reliability and longevity, pretty sure 650W will be enough Graphics: RTX 3050 is kind of a spicy choice for a NAS, but I was planning on using it with Plex for video transcoding (I do have some 4K content and don't want stuttering with multiple streams). Might be overkill. RAM: I went with 64GB (4x16GB sticks) thinking that will be more than enough for a large cache, but it's probably too much considering I only have 24TB right now. Let's call it future-proofing since RAM is cheap. No option for ECC with this hardware combo unfortunately. OS: Planning on trying my hand at TrueNAS Scale, I expect it will be a pretty smooth setup. Boot drive: I was thinking I'd use a 1TB Samsung M.2 drive for boot drive, but everything I read seems to indicate it will be way overkill and better repurposed as the overflow cache; I could use a SATA SSD drive for my boot drive but will be using all 8 SATA ports on the mobo for the 8 hot-swap sleds. Instead I chose to get a smaller cheap M.2 NVME drive (like 256GB) and have one spare M.2 slot if I want to put a drive in there in the future. What do you think, how did I do?

The build is complete! Here I will post the story of building this labour of love, and cover some of the pitfalls I ran into and creative details of keeping as much of the original minifridge features as I could. If you're after only the final build, look no further than this post! If you'd like the full story, read on as I build up this thread.

Hello all, this is my first post on the forum and I was looking for some suggestions for my current build. Current specs are as follows: CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D GPU: Gigabyte Aero OC 4070 Super Ram: GSkill Trident Z Neo 3600 Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B-550A AIO: Corsair H150i Elite Capellix PSU: Thermaltake GF1 850w SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 2tb HDD: (2x) 2tb Dell server grade HDDs Case: Corsair 5000x w/ 10 corsair fans I've just upgraded the GPU recently and AM5 is on my horizons along with PCIE Gen 5. But I can't seem to let go of the 5800x3d yet and have to upgrade the motherboard, cpu, and ram. Also the mobo, ram, psu, and aio are about 3 years old at this point so I guess those would be my main upgrade points.

Hi everyone, TLDR: I just want to warn all homelab enthusiasts that APUs like the 5600G or 5700G, and apparently also the newer 8000G series can have issues with some PCIe cards, when paired with some motherboards. In my case, with a 5700G + B550 + E10M20-T1 (Synology), the card is not detected at all. I expect the same with the QM2 cards from QNAP with an integrated NIC. When buying the Cezanne 5700G, and using a B550 motherboard, I saw that PCIe was going down from PCIe 4.0 to PCIe 3.0. What I didn't know is that the bifurcation options also go from x8/x8 x8/x4/x4 x4/x4/x4/x4 to x8/x8 x8/x4/x4 This apparently breaks compatibility with cards like the E10M20-T1. Beware ! Maybe it is not linked at all, but the coincidence is too big. It's sad, because this config makes for an excellent Ryzen SFF homelab machine with very fast NVMe storage, avoiding IPMI powered server MB by having an APU with a graphics output. It certainly helps with the budget, as server grade stuff is expensive. For now, I'm using a 5900X without graphics, because luckily AM4 boards can boot without a graphics card installed.

Hi all, I recently switched from a Ryzen 5 3600 to a Ryzen 7 5800X3D. It may be important to note that I initially upgraded from a 3600 & RTX 3070 to a 5800X3D and 7900 XT, and was running a stress test with Prime95 & Furmark at once on a 750W PSU. The computer immediately shut down, so I upgraded to a 1000W PSU and don't have this issue anymore. They both run fine at the same time (could this have damaged by CPU/motherboard causing this issue?). I was idling fine on the 3600 around 35 C, but this 5800 idles around 65-70 C. I've asked around on Reddit and other forums and everyone seems to agree that these temps are way too high. From what other people post, I should be seeing around 30 to 40 C idling (when I say "idle", I mean with Discord, Steam, and HWiNFO open at once). I've tried the following: Disabled A-XMP in my BIOS (made no difference, so I turned it back on) Updated my BIOS Reset CMOS Swapped out the kryosheet I re-used from my 3600 for a new one Changing the cooler from a be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 to a DeepCool Assassin IV Changing from a kryosheet to thermal paste Nothing I've done has changed the temps and I'm completely lost at this point. Here are my specs: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D 32 GB (4x8 GB) DDR4 3200 RAM (3200 w/ A-XMP on) (if the brand matters it's TEAM Group TFORCE) MSI B450 Tomahawk (latest BIOS revision as of this post, not Tomahawk MAX) AMD 7900 XT Corsair RM1000E 1000W PSU I'm using HWiNFO to read my temps, and reading the Tctl/Tdie temp. Screenshot If anyone can point me in the right direction here as to what I'm doing wrong, I would GREATLY appreciate it. The only thing I haven't tried is reinstalling Windows, but I'm not sure how/why that would help.

Hi, I am looking for detailed info about the efficacy and differences between core voltage offset and offset steps in Curve Optimizer for Ryzen 5000 Please only respond after you have read my post to the end Some specific answers I am after but not limited to: What is the actual effect of Curve Optimizer if it is not the same as core voltage offset? If they are the same, what is the voltage offset applied when Curve Optimizer value is set? The feasibility of using both core voltage offset together with Curve Optimizer (let's say negative offset for both) What I already know so please don't repeat it to me: Core voltage offset applies to all cores. Curve Optimizer can be configured per-core Negative Curve Optimizer value, on its own, is not considered as an undervolt because CPU will just be at a higher frequency for the same power draw (and so is negative core voltage offset when used on its own) Type of info I am looking for: Info from AMD themselves Info from users who have tested both methods and THE MEASURABLE DATA from their test outcomes (not just an opinion or conclusion) Data charts or tables if Curve Optimizer values are actually hardcoded and not linear Type of responses I am NOT looking for: "I do this and it works for me" "This is better" without explanation or citation "Consensus indicates this method is better" without explanation Citations/references that merely written and not backed by research, AMD or mobo manufacturers "They do the same thing" without further details This is not about what CPU I have or what I intend to do with it from the info gathered. Thanks

Building a PC for a friend and he said he prefers air cooling. I'm trying to get a CPU cooler that cools well but isn't over $75. I was looking at the Deepcool AK500 and figured that would be good. Should I get the AK500? upgrade to the Deepcool AK620 that is way bigger or get a completely different air cooler? Will mainly be used for gaming.

Hello, I'll be upgrading the core of my PC (ram, cpu, mobo) to AM5. I've done a bit of research and it seems for the most part the x670 mobo is not really worth it at the high prices, however Newegg has a combo deal going on right now, These are the pieces I have mostly landed on, these are in USD location and prices: * 7800x3d for $340 (it's -30 due to combo) * Gigabyte x670 Gaming X AX V2 at $180 (-30 due to combo) * Team T-force delta 3200 32 GB 6000 CL30 at $99 (-10 due to combo) Total $663 My current pieces that I already own are: * Nvidia Asus strix rtx 3080 12gb * Seasonic focus 850w plat What do you guys think, worth it? My reason for upgrading is that my current mobo has a dead Gpu slot and broken RGB pins so I thought instead of buying a new mobo I might as well platform upgrade now

I currently have a 3200G with A320M and the current bios ver is 7.00 should I upgrade the bios to 7.10 and then to 7.20 or can I just skip straight to 7.20 (or is there a better stable ver?). I'm kinda scared to update cause I saw some forums on Reddit and other websites of people having problems with their 5600X on A320M and problems from 3200G to gen 5 ryzen I just wanna know whether it's safe or not, Should I wait on the 5600X to arrive first then update it to 7.20 with 3200G? Specs: Ryzen 3 3200G GTX 1660 TI Asus A320M-HDV R4.0 2x8 (16GB) Ram 3200MHZ Flux 650 WATT Power Supply

Hey Guys, So I am looking to upgrade from my i9 9900K and I am going to get one of the Microcenter CPU, Mobo, Ram combos with either the Ryzen 9 7900X or the Ryzen 7 7800X3D. I am looking for the communities thoughts though with what you would recommend for my situation. I will use this PC for Gaming however I am about to go to college this Fall for Comp Sci Software Engineering with a possibility of Cyber Security. With that in mind, which CPU would you recommend for my situation?

Ever since I built my PC back in November I've been getting random Kernel power 41 crashes when playing games. It's been almost exclusively during games, but it did happen once while simply browsing chrome. I have also been getting random memory exceptions in some games (albeit not as often) which don't usually crash the PC completely, they just crash the game. Here's my specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 w/ stock cooler RAM: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Motherboard: ASRock X370 Gaming X (AM4) GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2, 80+ GOLD 550W Storage: 500gb Samsung 960 EVO & 1gb Western Digital WDC WD10EALX-759BA1 Event Viewer screen shots are linked. So far I've tried moving RAM, moving GPU, tested RAM, stressed CPU & GPU (no crash during that). I've noticed it seems to happen more in fullscreen games over borderless windowed (not sure if that matters). This has been a 6 month long issue, and it's frustrated me as I was so excited to finally have a good PC to play games. If you need any more information please let me know.

Recently I turned on the fTPM on my asus B550 wifi motherboard because of the new Windows 11 TPM 2.0 requirements, after I did that I started getting random stuttering on everything, heavy cpu or gpu load don’t seem to trigger it, I tried running the heaven benchmark and doing some heavy renders in blender but nothing happened , its just random and everything stutters, discord calls, games, YouTube, it happens randomly at least 3 times a day I turned off fTPM and the stuttering went away, anyone have a clue what could be happening? I have a 3090 and a 3900xt

Hey, everybody! Can you tell me if the cooling of this processor can handle Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE or Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE? Or would even the simplest AiO be better than air? My case Deepcool CC560 V2 ATX. p.s. I was scared here that air cooling might not do the job. Thx for suggestion!

Budget (including currency): 1500-2000 euro Country: PL, AU, DE Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Cybersecurity, Virtual Machines, Lab Environment, small web project (JS, Frontend), games?? time to time POE, HUNT: Showdown and POE2. Other details: I'm have monitor iiyama G-Master GCB3480WQSU-B1 Red Eagle, 34" and have PSU Corsair RMx 750 gold Hi all, after a long time with Windows systems (about 8 years), I'm going back to Gentoo, I also want to upgrade my PC. Can you tell me how much my build is optimally priced for linux. I'm planning to use KDE 6 for the first time, very interested in how it is now. OS: Linux, Gentoo Mobo: ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus WIFI (90MB1BZ0-M0EAY0) CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900, 12C/24T, 3.70-5.40GHz, boxed (100-100000590BOX) GPU: Radeon RX 7900 GRE or 7900xt RAM:Corsair Vengeance schwarz DIMM Kit 32GB, DDR5-6000, CL36-44-44-96 (open for suggestions and tips!) CASE: NZXT H510 Flow How much faster will the first option be than this one? 50 to 60 percent? mpg x570 gaming plus, ASRock Radeon RX 7900 GRE, DDR-4 corsair vengeance DDR4 32GB 3600MHz, AMD Ryzen 9 5900X. Thanks for taking your time to read amd help me!

after a year of saving i have just finished building my pc, and nothing is responding. the cpu light is on, and i cant really troubleshoot to see whats wrong as i dont have any spare parts lying around. specs: mobo- msi mag b550 tomahawk cpu - ryzen 79700g gpu - (still saving up for it) ram - Kingston fury 2 x 16GB storage- i have a 4tb Seagate hdd, and a 400GB Kingston ssd the fans spin to life and the rgb comes on, but my monitor never gets any form of signal. I believe its my cpu that's the problem and not the mobo socket, as when the processor arrived from amazon there were some bent pins but i managed to get them straight again with some tweezers. allso when i turn it on and everything else is on the cpu dosent change in temp without a cooler on it.

I was able to get my hands on a Ryzen 5 5600 for free via some weird mail mix up, when I ordered some parts from Newegg. I of course used this to my advantage to challenge myself on whether or not I can install the most modern XP gaming rig I can. With some difficulty and no ACPI support (lol), I was able to get a Ryzen 5th gen Windows XP PC up and running. The best part? I have very little driver incompatibilities! LAN, sound, graphics and USB 3 all work. thanks to the fan-made Windows XP Integral Edition, coming with drivers out of the box to help install XP on newer platforms. Without this software, I would have a major headache and this project could not be possible. Here are the specs: Ryzen 5 5600 CPU - one core enabled, disabled hyperthreading. XP doesn't play nice with multiple cores. 16GB DDR4-2400 - I know, low speed for Ryzen, but XP only detects 4GB and I doubt memory speed matters for let's say Oblivion and Half-Life 2 on 3440x1440. AsRock X370M Motherboard - got this as a deal when an eBay seller sent me a faulty motherboard and send this one as a way of apologizing. EVGA GTX 960 FTW - this is the latest graphics card to *officially* support XP. To my knowledge, people have gotten the 980Ti and even the Titan to play nicely with it, given some minor driver tweaks.) 256GB SSD - don't need much storage to play older games. 256GB seems to be adequate enough for my needs, for now. EVGA 750W non-modular PSU - no need to say more. My favorite part is that my GPU has Displayport, so I can use XP on my ultrawide monitor, at a resolution of 3440x1440. Here is the HWInfo for the XP build for tha proofz.

So my friend build a PC for doing Astro photography and he has a ryzen 9 5950X. When the CPU is at idle the processor sits around 45 - 70 C and fluctuates a good bit. I’m not used to this and don’t think this is normal operation. He has a NZXT AIO with a large rad and two 240mm fans. This setup should idle around 35 if my instincts are correct. What could be the issue here?