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I've been dealing with high GPU temperatures while gaming and wanted to reach out for some advice. Here are my full specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: RX 5700 XT (Mech OC) RAM: Corsair 16GB, 3200MHz Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M Gaming Edition PSU: Gigabyte P550U My RX 5700 XT is reaching around 76-80°C core temp and 102°C hotspot temp during AAA titles like RDR 2, Cyberpunk, and Far Cry 6. Any thoughts or suggestions to manage this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

###### EDIT: FIXED - added solution to the end of this comment. Hello guys... I'm really out of options at this point. I've tried troubleshooting this problem for weeks and it's insanely hard because I can't reproduce my issue. specs: Gigabyte b550m-D3SH, Patriot Viper Steel 3200mhz (16gb 2x8 dual Kit), R5 3600, GTX 1660super, 600 Watt be quiet! Pure Power 11 CM Modular 80+ Gold I've submitted a Ticket to AMD on monday in hopes that they'll help me (while I still had some ideas to try left). But they did not answer, yet and I'm officially fully out of ideas now. 1. So what is the issue? My PC will sometimes roughly (0-4times a day at ~12h usage). Sometimes it happens a few times in less than an hour ... but that might be by chance. Or not. The crash doesn't produce a BSOD, nor can I extract any insightful errorcode anywhere. Windows manager logs only event ID 41 with no additional info. (System probably down too quickly to do anything). After my PC crashes it will just show "no video signal" on my screen, my keyboard lights go off and I can't hear any sounds any more etc. but my fans are still running. So power seems to have been taken away from my whole board but not the fans. Of course this might all be because of a faulty PSU but I sadly do not have replacements with me and I also recently moved into a new town because of a job and know almost no one here. So it's really hard to "swap out a part". Also I have researched and found a lot of similar cases with similar problems. Some apparently were fixed with some setting or uninstalling monitoring software, etc. some weren't. None of the fixes and suggestions I found worked for me, though. More in this regard later let's move on to observations first. 2. Patterns that seem to have increased the likeliness of my crashes It rarely ever happened during gaming, but sometimes straight after gaming and sometimes it happened during idle (I went away for 2-3minutes). Stress-testing never seemed to crash my system and the performance seemed in line with the setup I have. So the only pattern I could observe had to do with a change of system load from higher to lower. 3. Conclusions drawn and fixes tried Because of this behavior I assumed it might have to do with my system being unable to deal with the load going down, entering various forms of low power modes or just having issues when certain algorithms at play match perfectly into an unstable condition. This might all be wrong and it might even just be the PSU or something else failing but here is what it led me to try so far: Next to the first few standard things I tested (multiple 5-10min Stress tests of CPU, GPU and memtestx86 over night) I tried to - change power settings on Windows and my GPU to prefer performance, to not go into sleep modes and - change power settings in BIOS e.g. disable global C-States or Power Loading (which adds a dummy load on my system during low load). - uninstall monitoring software - disable XMP And a few more I don't remember. I also did not enable any overclocking or anything. Note that testing even just one setting can take more than a full day due to randomness of crashes. I have read up that some systems also have problems with RAM timing especially for the Ryzen processors but I couldn't find anyone with similar issues to mine related to RAM timings. 4. One thing that seems to help but I didn't test it long enough yet (and might be biased because of my assumptions and wishful thinking): I found this odd "solution" one person had for a problem that sounded exactly like mine. He uses Prime95 to permanently stress-test one of his cores. This apparently sets his system in a stable condition and he didn't crash for 11 days. I have crashed once since I tried that (2days now) but I think I have chosen a different stress test by mistake so it might work with the "correct one". However this is no real long-term solution I just want to test if this helps to at least minimize the occurences of my crashes. If it does do that to a noticable amount it might help push anyone with more knowledge than me into the right direction of a possible cause (and hopefully fix). I know I wrote a lot and I tried to be thorough but I am not perfect at getting "directly to the point" so I apologize for the long read. I hope my info provided is sufficient and gives you an idea. Do not hesistate to ask me for more information. I'd be really happy if anyone was able to help! ############EDIT############### !!!UPDATE (solved) !!! For me the issue got fixed when I enabled "Typical current idle" in my BIOS settings for the PSU. Apparently my PSU thinks my board doesn't need any power when it goes below a threshold in some sort of powersaving/efficiency mode.

Hello everyone SOME CONTEXT I have a hard time with making decisions. I previously owned a PS3 (sold) > Xbox One (sold) > Nintendo Switch (sold). I was never able to buy myself a decent gaming PC and always relied on buying consoles because they were cheaper. I sold them every time when I felt like "I don't want to game anymore" and the felling to not play anymore always came up when it was summer time. I mostly played during Fall/Winter times and rarely at summer times since I get bad feelings and small depressions when playing video games at home during hot and awesome weather. Nowadays I get bored more quicker then before when I play specific games but at the same time I get hungry for some gaming sessions when I see my friends play the latest games which I can't play cuz I don't have a gaming pc. I am using a Macbook since 2015 and was able to play "LoL" , "Minecraft" , "Albion Online", "CSgo" and "WoW" -- the experience was never that great tho even when I was able to play them smoothly. Now I always get nostalgic feeling about games I want to play again after a long "I don't want to play videogames anymore" pause. -- That is why I am kinda trying to decide to buy a gaming PC for good now. A machine that I completely want to use for gaming even when it is occasionally and maybe with 1 or 2 month pause after long gaming sessions. I know that I won't play multiple hours are daily like in the old days anymore. ** It is like a diet .. I would rather eat 1 chocolate bar in a month or every 2 weeks instead of cutting it completely out. GAMING PC I FOUND Now for me a small build is important for when I want to take it with me for a 3 hours ride on the train to my hometown for same gaming party. I don't like the average sized pc cases which almost everyone has anyway. Lucky me I found one on Ebay for 900€ .. it has the - b450 motherboard - Ryzen 3600 - GTX 1660 Super - 16 gb RAM - small case as I said I plan on using it only for gaming. I soon want to buy myself a new MacBook with the m1 pro for creative and productive stuff. I wished that there would be good eGPU solutions for the new MacBooks but there isn't. I would play the above mentioned games rarely now graphic demanding games that need a GPU I want to play are : - Battlefield 4 / 1 / 5 / hardline / 2042 - Warzone - Warframe - Genshin Impact - Diablo 3 / 2 Remastered - maybe DOOM - GTA - maybe APEX - Valorant So should I invest in that somewhat future proof PC ? I could pic me a Lenovo Legion or MSI GE66 .. which look awesome and I could imagine using them for productivity and gaming.. but I don't want to own 2 laptops and I want to have a MACBOOK always Hope you could follow me til here and give me a fine answer

So i read a lot and researched this, but i still dont understand half of this stuff… after many tries and followoing a probably outdated guide as precise as possible … i "kinda" got it to work , but only kinda, as i knew voltage was a bit high, probably? The main problem im having seems that i think i have to check what the chip draws under load, and then use that as a base for my overclock… and thats the problem its drawing 1.4v easily… and low and behold above 1.4 was when it finally booted into windows … but thats way too much voltage? And since it then repeatedly crashed in cinebench id probably have to put even more, 1.45v??? That makes no sense… (imo) All relevant settings: So i dont think this is going to work, i could try 4.0 maybe, but thats less than what it boosts to most of the time with PBO anyways, so seems pointless. Its just not a good chip for overclocking i guess? Or im missing something crucial … not sure how high or low i should go with LLC, I also havent touched SOC at all (maybe its that?)

I have a ASRock B450m Pro4 MB that I recently bought along with a Ryzen 5 3600 and some ddr4 8gb sticks, all of this was bought used except the board, which was purchased off of Amazon, The issue I am having is that it will boot, no display then shut down after about 20 seconds, I do not have a speaker so I cannot hear beeps, but the fans will all start and the power LED is on but I'd assume the bios is having issues but I cannot confirm this, I believe the issue is one of the following: PSU, Bad Ram, Broken CPU. I'd love any and all input.

Tried to OC my ryzen 5 3600 on ryzen master at 4200mhz 1.3125volts. should i go lower on voltage? And where should i stress test to know if my OC is stable.

My Specs: Cpu: Ryzen 5 3600(Over-clocked) Gpu: Zotac Trinity RTX 3080 Ram: Oloy 16Gb 3000MHz MB: Asus Tuf gaming plus x570 PSU: EVGA non-modular 750w When I run Call of Duty: Modern Warfare no matter the settings I use or render resolution I get around 110-140 with sudden dips to 90 FPS. Both my CPU and my GPU are hovering around 50-70% usage when in game with no other programs open other than MSI afterburner. I have changing the memory scale to .5 and render count to 6 in the adv.options file but have not seen a significant change. Furthermore, I have uninstalled the driver with DDU and reinstalled but still no change. Bios has also been updated. Please help I know that this setup should be capable of more because My GTX 1080 performed almost the same

Hi, I still need to get RAM for my Ryzen 3600, I will use either B550 MSI Carbon Gaming Wifi or B550 Asus ROG Strix E-Gaming. I got a Noctua nh-d15s from my friend and its huge, would like to use it with 2 fans if I upgrade to ryzen 3900x/5900 later on. I would like to get 32GB and later on upgrade to 64GB, I do alot of RAW editing/photoshopping. My options from 3600MHz 1.Kingston 32GB (2 x 16GB) HyperX FURY DDR4, 3600MHz, CL18, 1.35V (HX436C18FB4K2/32) 2.Corsair 32GB (2 x 16GB) Vengeance LPX, DDR4 3600MHz, CL18, 1.35V (CMK32GX4M2D3600C18) OR (CMK32GX4M2Z3600C18) 3.Kingston 32 GB (2 x 16GB) HyperX Predator, DDR4 3600MHz, CL17, 1.35V (HX436C17PB3K2/32) I've narrowed G.Skill Ripjaws and some G.Skills out because they are higher, and might not work with noctua with dual fans.

IDK what happen but when i playing dota2 it suddenly happen rainbow game . It's because i overclock the GPU and it happen or because the game? i playing cyberpunk 4-5 hour nothing problem Spec: gtx 1080 gigabyte oc ryzen 5 3600 (4.2Ghz OC 1.35V) 16gb vengeance pro rgb

Hello all, I'd like some help choosing the best motherboard to go with a Ryzen 5 3600 and 16GB of DDR4 memory clocked at 3600Mhz, been wanting an upgrade for a while and had a change of heart in parts so I'd like to know the best! When I say the best, I of course mean within my budget. £140 ($190) is the highest I am willing to go, of course if there are better options under that price, I'd rather save my money! Thank you in advance.

CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Cooler: CM Hyper T4 MB: MSI GAMING PLUS MAX My CPU temperature ranges between 60 and 70 degrees while gaming. It's very annoying when my CPU Fan ramps up to full speed and then instantly goes down during gaming. Is this a good Fan Curve to avoid CPU fan getting to 100% when hitting 70 degrees? (While being safe for the CPU of course)

my spec pc : ryzen 5 3600 1.1v undervolt 4.1ghz 8x2 vengeance pro rgb psu 500W aerocool +80 bronze gtx 1080 gigabyte 3 fan 4tb hdd seagate 1tb wd blue 500gb intel 660p nvme Actually this happen when me upgrade 4tb hdd seagate, before this there is no problem when i gaming on warzone, destiny2. I notice than when i play dota2, csgo, valorant there is no issues about it, im also streaming before this and nothing happen. Can i know is 4TB upgrading there is effect on my PSU not enough ? I see the power consumption is no problem at all or my extension plug having problem?

- ISSUE RESOLVED, SEE THREAD BELOW FOR RESOLUTION OF THIS TOPIC - Hi all - thanks in advance for any help. I recently upgraded my personal/work rig and wanted to reuse the old parts to build a new PC entirely focused on emulation for 70s to early 00s gaming. My CPU (a Ryzen 5 3600) and motherboard (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max) came directly from my personal rig and were my daily drivers for about a year. I know these two parts work together. I bought 2 sticks of 4GB DDR4 memory at 2666 MHz (PSD48G2666K, if anyone needs the part number), and then purchase at GT730 4GB (Fermi, nor Kepler architecture) card off of eBay. I’m carrying forward a 500 watt “be quiet” power supply from my last build. Also using a 240GB SATA SSD for my boot drive. Anyways, I plugged everything in upon the card arriving today but the system isn’t posting. When I turn the system on, the back of my motherboard illuminates white and then becomes red (let me clear, none if the EZ diagnostic buttons (CPU/VGA/DRAM/BOOT) are illuminated after those lights cycle on power on - just the LED strip on the back of the motherboard), but I get no signal from my card. I have tried 2 different monitors and all outputs from the card (DVI/VGA/HDMI). The card is plugged into the correct PCIEx16 slot (Gen 3), and I am indeed pugging my monitors into the card, not the back of my mobo. Previously, this motherboard had a 2070 Super in it and 32GB on 3600 MHz RAM. The fans on the GPU, CPU, and case all turn on when I power on the system, but I’m not getting any signal. A few other things - when I have the monitors plugged into the card, they repeatedly cycle before going into power saver mode. When they’re not plugged into the card, they do not cycle and instead just have a box that says “Searching for signal…” thar floats around the screen. I don’t know if this is a monitor being plugged into something habit or if there’s some data being communicated by the card to the monitor. Finally, and this shouldn’t make a difference but I just want to make it known, when I upgraded my personal rig I went from a 500 to 1200Watt PSU. Since they’re both from be quiet!, I kept the cables all cable managed and in place on my personal rig (cables from the 500W PSU attached to the 1200W PSU) and I’m using the cables that came with the 1200W PSU with the 500W PSU on this new rig. Again, don’t think this matters because they’re cables from the same manufacturer. Thanks again for any and all help. Really have no idea what to do at this point!

So I have some undesirable behaviors that have been ongoing for months on my PC. It's never exceptionally hot, but it idles at about 65-70 and windows is always reporting 100% usage. I run benchmarks and my performance seems to be reasonable, benchmarks also don't report excessive background CPU usage (when such a metric is available), but task manager still reports excessive usage and ryzen master reports that I'm always hovering at 90% EDC and pinned at 4200mhz. Something is clearly happening. I ran windows defender, I picked up malwarebytes upon a friends advice, I picked and combed through task manager to identify anything potentially malicious. I opened CMD and picked through the tasklist one by one, which took a couple hours of back and forth googling every single thing I can find my PC doing and confirming everthing is what it claims to be. The 100% utilization in normal boot is distributed all over, one second it's Edge taking 80%, the next it's OBS taking 90, sometimes its 20 different things randomly taking an even few percent... nothing is the culprit. If I shut everything down, eventually it will just claim task manager itself is taking 90+%; I checked that to see if ti was legit and it is indeed task manager and not a spoofed app. I boot into safemode, the problem persists but now task manager reports 100% usage, and the list below is 0's across the board. As a last ditch effort, I removed all my drives and booted off my wife's old laptop hard drive... the problem is gone. Usage is as it should be, idle is 35-40c depending on what I let run in the background. I reinstall my hardware and it's back, so it wasn't just a matter of reseating anything. Something on my C drive is causing this behavior and I'm stumped. Anything that goes in and out of this PC does so under my observation, so I can't even begin to imagine where I got some kind of malware and why it apparently can run in safemode, but I'm out of ideas other than a fresh windows install. If I have to go that route, I'm just gonna get rid of everything because who knows what innocuous file might be harboring some problem. Has anyone else encountered this kind of issue? Is there some other thing I can check to figure out what exactly is using my CPU? I'd rather not lose everything, but it seems like a fresh windows install is the only thing left to try. Would appreciate any suggestions before I just nuke it all, some of it is pretty irreplaceable. For what it's worth, it's a ryzen 3600 under a corsair H60 running windows 10.

I'm only doing this temporarily until all my watercooling parts get in for new pc

I recently bought a strix rog b450-f gaming motherboard and got a ryzen 3600 to put in it. I got everything together and no boot just a click from my psu after pressing the start button. On the box it says 3rd gen ready. I know some motherboards need a bios update So I got a athon 200 ge incase I needed to do a bios update. I put that proccesor in and I still hear a click from the psu. So I got a new psu that can handle up to 750 watts since the other one I was testing with was 500. I still had the same issue. The motherboard is out of the case and the only thing connected is the psu, ram, and GPU. The rgb on the motherboard works when psu is plugged in. I've tried resetting the cmos and a tried other troubleshooting tips to find problems. I'm am out of ideas to try, I know linus peeps are helpful and I would be grateful for any advice you're willing to give. Specs: Motherboard: strix rog b450-f gaming Ram: hyperx ddr4 8 gbs 2144mhz- also tried other ddr4 ram to see if it was a ram issue. GPU: gtx 1070 Psu: MiPc 750 watt max

Hello everybody, I've upgraded my system recently and after repeatedly trying to fix some problems that arose I decided to ask here. When booting for the first time (after taking away power for a longer period of time) and occasionally, but really rarely and kinda randomly, my system refuses to boot with (mini-)displayport plugged into the graphics card. The CPU cooler stops completely and both screens (second screen over micro-HDMI) stay black as well. Holding the power button doesn't shut down the system either and only turning off the power supply helps. Upon starting the system ONCE without displayport plugged in, subsequent boots work just fine with displayport plugged in. Until the problem reappears... I have checked on the issue online, but most people report it's caused by cheap displayport cables (and having power ports at both ends) - but this would cause this issue to be consistent or do I misunderstand something here? Other users also don't report it working on subsequent boots. Any clue on what might be causing this or how to avoid it? Another issue that I have is that one of my sata SSDs is not being recognized in BIOS (and Windows) occasionally. I really can't narrow down what causes it and it seems quite random but what I can say for sure is it occurs after a cold boot and it never malfunctions or "vanishes" during operation. All the other SSDs and drives (one m2 sata and two SATA drives) work fine. This SSD is NOT the boot drive, but used for my Steam library. Little sidenote: This SSD behaved strangely for my old system as well, so I it might be faulty. I couldn't tell for sure because either my old motherboard or CPU was faulty, hence the new system. However, upon replugging the SSD it is recognized once again for a few boots. I usually replug both power and SATA cable at the same time, going to narrow it down further next time unless somebody knows whats up. This process however is very tedious, especially since my case has limited to no access to my SSDs ports without loosening the handscrews and taking it out. Apart from it not being recognized it doesn't show any problems and chkdsk reports no errors. BIOS is on newest version (F51) and chipset drivers are installed. Windows is up to date (1909). I haven't changed anything in BIOS except for enabling the existing XMP profile and enabling SVM for the use of virtual machines. I have built my first/initial system 7 years ago without any issues and have helped choose items and build pcs for some of my friends, so I have a bit of experience. Here's my system. Swapped out mainboard, cpu, ram and case. Mainboard: Aorus B450 Elite CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 3200MHz GPU: Palit GTX 980 Jetstream PSU: be quiet! L8 Pure Power 530W Case: Sharkoon TG6 Thanks in advance! EDIT: Regarding the first issue I checked whether other peripherals could be at fault but even with nothing else connected it refuses to start up properly. For the second issue I've tried a different sata cable and different SATA port on my mainboard as well as using a different plug for power already. Issue remains. Unfortunately I don't have a different PSU (since I heard group regulated PSUs can cause problems on newer systems) and neither do I have another "working" PC to check my SSD with (especially since it's so random). I'd say it happens once every week if I had to guess.

Newly build a computer with b450-f ,ryzen 3600, noctua cpu fan, corsair 16gb vengeance rgb, thermaltake toughpower gf1 750 watt, and gtx 1060. When I boot it the Asus logo rgb light is on, Ethernet flashes orange, and power supply fan is spinning lightly. gpu fan, cpu fan, and case fans are not spinning. Is there a qled on this board?? I checked the cables multiple times. The required bios is 2301. The sticker on the board says bios is 2605. What other troubleshootingcan I do? Thank you

Hello, I'm looking for some help. I have a asus b450f motherboard, a ryzen 3600, and a corsair vengeance rgb pro ram (MODEL NUMBER) CMW16GX4M2C3200C16, could any tell me if I should be running into any problems with this build? I would test it out my self but the mother board is still being shipped. Thank you in advanced.

Budget (including currency): 1200€ Country: Germany ( i am going to buy on mindfactory ) Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Overwatch, streaming, AE, PS & steam games I know that the cpu works on the motherboard, but i realized how much issues there might be. I looked up some installation tutorials just to get ready for everything and i dont know if my power supply is enough and works with all parts. This is my first build and i dont want to screw it up by buying the wrong things. So can someone look over the parts and check if they even work together ? There is a picture but imma copy them here so its easier to search for them. ssd- 500GB Samsung 970 Evo Plus M.2 2280 PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe 1.3 3D-NAND TLC cpu- AMD Ryzen 5 3600 case- Azza Thor 320 ram- 16GB (2x 8192MB) G.Skill Aegis DDR4-3000 DIMM CL16-18-18-38 Dual Kit motherboard- Gigabyte Aorus Pro AMD B450 So.AM4 gpu- 8GB KFA2 GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER EX power supply- 550 Watt Seasonic Netzteil FOCUS-PX-550 Modular (80+Plat.) thanks in advance

Hi all, I'm looking at building a budget PC. Could you please take a look at my parts. Budget (including currency): £700 Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Playing games, GTA 5, Call of Duty, college work, 3D CAD.

Hi guys, I need help troubleshooting a very strange issue that occurred to my relatively new rig. Basically, when I turn the PSU switch off the pc will not start unless i re-flash the bios. The rig: Asus Crosshair VII Hero (WIFI) (bios version 2606) Ryzen 5 3600 AMD Wraith Prism Cooler 2x16gb 3000mhz cl16 Corsair Vengeance Corsair HX 850 Platinum GEForce RTX 2060 6gb Samsung 970 Evo NVME as boot drive Windows 10 Pro 64 bit So i built this PC 5 months ago with the only differences being a Ryzen 5 2600 (now sold) and the AMD Wraith max cooler instead of the above stated Ryzen 5 3600 and AMD Wraith prism cooler. The PC worked fine without any issues for 5 months, until I decided to upgrade to a Ryzen 5 3600 and a used wraith prism cooler. When the new 3600 cpu arrived, I installed it, set it up and everything worked fine. A day later, the new cooler arrived, (bought used) and I replaced the previously installed Wraith Max cooler with it. Until here, all good. I was then trying to set up the RGB on the Wraith Prism cooler and opened Asus suite 3 software that was already installed on the PC. PC at that point started to be a little unresponsive even in other operations outside the Asus software so I thought to shut it down and restart. The PC did not fully shut down so after a few minutes I just switched the PSU power switch off. Waited for a few minutes, turned the PSU back on and when I pressed the power button again the PC would start for a split second (where all the fans and lights would also go on for a split second and then off again) and then off again in a loop. For this to end I had to again turn the PSU switch off. At this point I started unplugging devices from the PC in order to see where the problem was because the MB would not give any Q-codes or beeps or any indication on why it was behaving like that. No luck with unplugging devices so I decided to take the MB out of the case to its original box and try again. No luck. I only left the CPU in, with the CPU power cable and the 24 pin MOBO cable connected, nothing else. Even stripped like this, the issue persisted. At this point my fear was that either the CPU or the MOBO were dead. My next move was to re-flash the bios. I used another PC and put the latest bios file on a USB stick and trying the Asus flashback feature. It worked. PC started fine. I put everything back in the case, and when pressed the power button....same old issue where it would boot for a split second and then turn off on a loop. Long story short, I re-flashed the bios and it worked again and found out that every time I turn the PSU switch off, this happens. If i do not turn the PSU switch off, the PC is fine. P.S. I even changed the CMOS battery with a brand new one as I suspected that could be the issue but it doesn't seem to be. P.S. I also tried different/previous bios versions with the same result. Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you!

Hey all, I’m just getting into pc building and I had a question on what thermal paste I should use for my pc, I have a ryzen 3600 and I’m using the hyper 212 cooler for it, not too sure if the thermal paste makes too much of a difference depending on the parts used but I figured I’d throw it out there. Thanks so much for the help!

Hey guys, looking for some advice as Im going crazy. Nothing I do helps or does anything to my brand new system. Three days ago, I built a new computer specs are: Ryzen 3600 x570 Aorus Elite/Wifi Crucial Ballistic Sport 32GB 2X16 DDR4 32000 BLS2K16G4D32AESB Sapphire Pulse RX 5700 XT H100i AIO Liquid Cooler WD Black 500 GB NVMe M.2 - WDS500G2X0C 850W EVGA PSU Windows 10 1803/1903 I installed a fresh windows then got a bsod after about 5 minutes of the fresh install. Figured it was a driver issue, went through windows update, downloaded all the drivers for graphics card, and motherboard and still kept getting bsod. Now all the parts are brand new with the exceptions of the power supply. I had been using this power supply in my old build with no issues. I tried to keep track of which error codes I got and these were the most common. KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE KERNEL_AUTO_BOOST_INVALID_LOCK_RELEASE IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP RAM was originally in slots 2/4 then I switched it to 1/3. No change. I thought I had a faulty ram stick or something so I tried swapping ram with my brother's 2600 ryzen rig(G.Skill Flare X Series 2X16GB F4-2400C15D-32GFX) and vice versa. My computer was still getting bsod, now almost every 5 minutes while my crucial ram was running without any problems in his pc. I swapped out the m2 ssd thinking it might have been something wrong with that and used a ssd in my old setup with a fresh install of windows as well. Now this time I was getting bsod even during the windows set up and after the install it was the same as before, every 5 minutes bsod. This is actually the second motherboard I've tested out, the first time after I tried changing everything I assumed it had to be the motherboards fault. Now Im completely lost, pulling hair out my head. Took me forever to even get dmp files because of how often it was bsod. I attached the dmp.zip as well as a google drive download link. https://drive.google.com/open?id=14iZnz0Cqb_TFSLX0eawDSXg0L59vWT7- I noticed another user has almost the exact same problem as me. Anyone have solutions? dmp.zip

There are some new Ryzen 3600 Geekbench 4 benchmarks today and what sets them apart is that they are running at 4.4GHz (just a hair under). If you'll recall -- the Ryzen 3600 has a boost clock of 4.2GHz and on Ryzen that usually means 1 maybe 2 cores at a time. Most impressive, though, is that most folks do not reach all-core overclocks on Ryzen that exceed their boost clocks let alone exceed it by 200MHz. We don't know the cooling, but if it's an ambient solution then this is exciting. I'll link one score and screenshot some more so that you can see how much higher it scores than the other previous Ryzen 3600 runs. http://browser.geekbench.com/v4/cpu/13629401