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Hello everyone! I have a problem with the XMP profile of my Corsair LPX 3200MHz RAM (CL16): For the life of me I just can't get the standard XMP profile to work with my AsRock Taichi X370 mainboard I'm not yet overclocking my CPU (Ryzen 1700X - but I really want to) or RAM so everything is on default in my UEFI-BIOS (even cleared CMOS)... When I select the XMP profile it even recognizes my exact RAM module! Following I can select the RAM kit (my CMK16GX4M2B3200C16) in the integrated settings (only one in the dropdown menu) and it sets the timings, the clock as well as the secondary timings plus optimizations. But it just does not work... after only applying these (standard) settings for the RAM (coming integrated from a BIOS-update) the board will not POST until it reset itself to 2133 MHz for the RAM clock. Changing various settings (according to DRAM Calculator for Ryzen 1.7.0 (Safe preset)) or increasing voltages (SOC and DRAM) also does not help. With the standard settings even 3133 MHz won't work for Windows (BSODs everywhere) - I had to dial back to 3000MHz (3200-timings) to even get into Windows... Before I updated the BIOS last time it already was not working under any circumstances that I tried (since late 2017, many BIOS versions and settings) - but now I have these integrated settings that finally should work (but dont)! Maybe someone of you has a tip or can help me? I would really appreciate any pointers or help in any regard with my longtime (very) frustrating setup! Thank you all for your time! (If I get my RAM to work at stock settings at last - I can finally start overlocking the CPU [maybe even the RAM]! That'd be so cool!) Setup: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X (Voltage: Auto) Mainboard: AsRock Taichi X370 (P5.60, AGESA Combo-AM4 1.0.0.1) GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 Storage: Samsung NVME SSD 960 EVO + Samsung 830 SSD + 2x WD Blue 2TB HDD RAM: Corsair LPX 3200 MHz CL16 (see below) Manufacturer Corsair Series Vengeance LPX Part Number CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 Serial Number Undefined JEDEC DIMM Label 8GB 1Rx8 PC4-2133P-UA0-10 Architecture DDR4 SDRAM UDIMM Speed Grade DDR4-2133P downbin Capacity 8 GB (8 components) Organization 1024M x64 (1 rank) Register Model N/A Manufacturing Date Undefined Manufacturing Location Taiwan Revision / Raw Card 0000h / A0 (8 layers) DRAM COMPONENTS Manufacturer Hynix Part Number H5AN8G8NAFR-TFC Package Standard Monolithic 78-ball FBGA Die Density / Count 8 Gb A-die (Deneb / 21 nm) / 1 die Composition 1024Mb x8 (64Mb x8 x 16 banks) Input Clock Frequency 1067 MHz (0,938 ns) Minimum Timing Delays 15-15-15-36-50 Read Latencies Supported 16T, 15T, 14T, 13T, 12T, 11T, 10T... Supply Voltage 1,20 V XMP Certified 1600 MHz / 16-18-18-36-54 / 1,35 V XMP Extreme Not programmed SPD Revision 1.0 / January 2014 XMP Revision 2.0 / December 2013
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Ryzen 7 1700X freezing while gaming, i was playing warzone and it froze while at 72,53 celcius. The next morning it froze and it was 70 celcius. Today it froze again and it was 62 celcius. It has frozen twice today, it has frozen like 30 times in 4 days. My specs are: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X Motherboard: ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming GPU: GTX 1660 6GB TUF Gaming Advanced Edition. PSU: Some corsairs 450w psu. RAM: HyperX 16GB/2x8gb i dont remember the mhz.
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Ok so I have read that the 1700x and the 1800x have a difference of 20C than what the temp is actually reporting. If that is true or not I don't know but even with that accounted for my temps just seem to be completely off. At idle temps sitting at 69C up to 76C. Played one game of Counter Strike: Global Offense and the CAM overlay showed temps jumping into the high 90s and right after the system stopped and shut down. Clearly there's some issue here. The cooler I am using is a Corsair H60 (I know not the biggest cooler but its just running at stock speeds so should be plenty of cooling power). Any help with this would be appreciated.
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New PC, Bad performance. Guidance needed
love2watch posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Hello lads. First time on this forum and I'll give it a try. I've recently bought new pc. It's Ryzen 7 1700x, Ichill GeForce 1080ti 11GB Team Group Dark Pro 8 Pack Edition 3000mhz Asrock X370 Killer SLI Mobo. Paid a good price and expected good performance. But the thing is, I have very...very...VERY horrible results in 3D mark and games sometimes spiking in terms of FPS. CPU is not overheating. I've overclocked it to 3.8ghz so frequency would be stable, and it helped a little, but still, FPS in some games are horrible. Games like PUBG in fullHD (1920) are having from 50-90 fps, where same configuration on youtube showing good 100-120 fps. I've updated all the drivers, chipset drivers, reinstalled OS. I tried to boost CPU higher than 3.8, but seems to be my type of CPU cannot do that and it's failing even if I boost a little more than 3.8 ghz. Any ideas what can be done to perform better in games? Cheers, Ed. -
Hi guys, I'm new here and already love this great community, looking forward to having a good time. I'll be straight to the point. I've shortlisted some components for the build but have some questions in my mind(asked at the end). Any answers(even short) and advice are highly appreciated. Thank you. // Intended use : Sound design and music production in general, but would also like to periodically use it for video editing(in AE and Premiere Pro). I do not have a huge budget, 1600 USD would be my limit. I'd prefer not going any higher than my current estimate too. Note: I live in India and I've mentioned the approximate local prices of chosen components alongside each. CPU : AMD Ryzen 1700X (460 USD or INR 29500) MOTHERBOARD : ASUS PRIME B350 PLUS (133 USD or INR 8500) GRAPHIC CARD : ZOTAC 1050 TI 4GB (203 USD or INR 13000) MEMORY : CORSAIR VENGEANCE 16GB(2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz (164 USD or INR 10500) - mentioned in the motherboard QVL STORAGE: SAMSUNG 960 EVO M.2 500 GB (312 USD or INR 20000) + Existing storage COOLER : COOLER MASTER HYPER 212X (47 USD or INR 3000) CASE : NZXT S340 (110 USD or INR 7000) POWER SUPPLY : SEASONIC SSR-550RT S12G (110 USD or INR 7000) ESTIMATED TOTAL : 1539 USD or INR 98500 QUESTIONS : RAM : I can't seem to find the (8GBx2)RAM kit anywhere online. The options are limited where I live. 1. There are a good number of 16GBx1 modules of the same model available, but not mentioned in the QVL. Is it something to be worried about? 2. Do I lose a lot of performance if I go for 2400 or 2666 RAMs? or by going with single channel. 3. Asus's motherboard page says "Due to AMD Ryzen™ Processor limitation, More than DDR4-2666 is supported by one DIMM per channel only". Does it mean only one of the RAMs will run at higher speeds and the other at 2133? M.2 STORAGE : Since I constantly run heavy programs, I'm really inclined towards an M.2 storage but have never had one before. 4. How reliable are they? If they are like HDDs which can fail under heavy usage then I prefer sticking to SSDs. 5. Is the Windows installation straight forward? I'd like to use it as my boot drive. Any general advice/opinion about this build is really appreciated too. Thanks! Please let me know if you see any compatibility issues. Note: I do not game but I'm planning to go for a GTX 1060 if budget allows for it. Just not my priority right now. Any display card that support a 1440p monitor will work for me.
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Hello, This is my first build and a lot of this is still very new to me. This is a primarily workstation build, intended for 3D Rendering and 3D animation. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Klulas/saved/H3Lccf I would greatly appreciate your help with making sure everything works together and will fit together nicely. Will the motherboard be able to fit every component in together just fine? The thing I'm concerned about right now is the case. The Define C states it can support up to 168 mm tall CPU coolers and the Noctua NH D15 is 165 tall. Is the 3 mm clearance enough or should I look for a bigger case? Again any help with this is very much appreciated. Thank you
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Hello, Im finally writing the build log for my first custom loop. This is the version 1.0 of the PC. Version 2.0 will come in a couple months when I can afford the 1080ti that I originally planned on. Ill do my best to present this in a digestible way, though I do tend to write a lot! (BTW I havent had time to find an LED color scheme I like, so I've just left it at default rainbow.) Parts List: Watercooling Parts List: Sleeving Parts List: The reasoning and backstory: Im a 3D generalist who loves PCs, so I decided to build a new PC, more as a fun project than something out of necessity. I wanted to do lots of custom things, including hardline tubing, custom sleeving, and painting. I chose the PC-09 because I liked the dual chamber design, build quality, and HDD support. All of the storage came from my old PC. The story: Whats next? More images: Thank you for reading!
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I currently have a Ryzen 1700x, but it seems that I cannot get past 3.8ghz with it and my Asrock X370 Taichi. I bought both the Taichi and the x version over the regular 1700 with the sole intent on overclocking. I understand silicon lottery and everything, nothing's guaranteed, but I figured since the 1700x has a base turbo of 3.8, I would have a decent chance of getting slightly higher clocks than that. I can get 3.8 at a relatively low voltage, only 1.29vcore with level 2 LLC. I can pass Prime, Intel Burn Test, all without issue with minimal heating issues. But the moment I try to go past 3.8, I crash. Even 3.825 is unstable. Being able to achieve 3.8 with 1.29v I figured ok, there's plenty of room left before I enter dangerous voltage territory. Unfortunately, all the way up to 1.41 proves unstable and I've read that 1.4 is about the cut off limit for safe voltages so I didn't try to push any further. Did I just get extremely unlucky, or is there something I'm missing? The Taichi is a little bit more confusing to work with compared to some other boards I've used, but I'm not completely new to OC'ing either so I'm wondering if maybe there's some cryptic, non obvious setting in my bios that I'm missing. I do have all of the power saving features such as cool and quiet, c6, etc disabled as well.
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I really need to upgrade my system, it's just to old. This is the build I've come up with but I'm not sure if all of these are the best options. I would prefer to have 2x 16GB sticks of RAM but G.Skill apparently doesn't make their Trident Z RGB in anything bigger than 8GB dimms? O_oHere's my main questions though about the build. - Is the Hybrid drive necessary or should it be changed to a 4TB HDD with Intel Optane. - If HDD and Optane are the choice will there be any problems using the Optane thingy with an m.2 ssd? - Is my m.2 SSD the best choice for an NVME SSD option? - Does G.Skill not make their Trident Z RGB RAM in anything bigger than 8GB DIMMs? - Are the any benefits from upgrading from a EVGA G2 to a G3 PSU? I currently own a G2 750 from them that I thought about taking out of my current system then just buying a cheap bronze unit for my current system to keep it alive. - Also, I'm thinking about upgrading to a custom loop eventually (like one part at a time) is this case big enough to house a 240 and 360 rad along with the res/pump or would upgrading to the Corsair 570x be worth it for when I choose to do this? Now here is the build. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($348.29 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Fractal Design - Celsius S36 87.6 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.79 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus - PRIME X370-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($147.00 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($308.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Intel - 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($174.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($139.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $2202.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-30 15:33 EDT-0400
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- ryzen 1700x
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Hello Guys I am making myself a ryzen 7 build for gaming and mabye some recording. i got told that ryzen dosent really need a CPU Cooler and that i should rather upgrade from 1700 to 1700x than getting a kraken x62. I therefore thought about getting a kraken x31 and the 1700x now that i saved some bucks on the x62 kraken it would be around the same price getting a x31 kraken and the 1700x. Can the Kraken x31 fit the ryzen 1700x? and is the Kraken x31 a good Cpu cooler ? not to loud? The file i have linked is my build so far dont mind the danish priceings. Its about 1,200 dollar build i got at GTX 1080 allready and a 2 TB Hdd Ryzen 1700x Build.docx
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I currently have my 1700X overclocked to 3.9GHz and have my voltage set to auto which sits around 1.35V. I've ran plenty of benchmarks and it seems to be stable but I'm curious if I'd get better performance if I manually set my voltage rather than using auto. I've read that auto voltage can be a bit generous sometimes but I looked over an overclocking spreadsheet and it seems most people hitting 3.9GHz are at 1.32V - 1.36V which seems right in the range of what auto is choosing.
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Adrenalin 19.1.1 RX 470 Graphics with 8192 MB GDDR5 memory at 1216 MHz Windows 10 (64 bit) 16 GB corsair rgb ram AMD Ryzen 7 1700X Eight-Core Processor at 4 ghz on an asus strix x370 mobo with corsair 150i liquid cooling I am using an alienware 25 inche 1080p 240htz freesync monitor AW2518HF I want a new graphics card i thing the rx 470 really holds up my 1700x and i don't know to which card i should upgrade to , i have a budget of around 500$ and i cannot buy used , believe me i would love to buy a used 1080ti now that nvidia supports freesync
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I'm getting a Ryzen 3600x for free from a friend and I'm planning to swap out my 1700x. While I'm losing a couple of cores, from what I can tell the multi threaded performance is on par and it has improved single thread performance, so I'm hoping it will run better in games with the better IPC and clocks. I often notice my GPU sitting at 70-80%, which I would blame on the current thread the game is using sitting at 100%. Should I expect better game performance at 1440p? Is it worth the switch? From what I can tell it helps fps lows the most, even if average fps doesn't increase substantially.
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Hey folks, I really hope somebody can help me, as I am quite desperate right now. While beeing at idle my Ryzen 1700X stays at around 3.20 GHz clock speed. (Screenshot 1). As soon as I launch a game, no matter if it's PUBG, Overwatch, Battlefield or whatever, my CPU drops below 1.50 GHz even though the temperatures don't differ that much and my CPU usage is at only 20% (3-4°C difference). I already tried resetting CMOS and, as it seems, it fixed it for a short time, but not that long. I recently changed my Case to a smaller one so I thought it may be thermal throttleling, but, as far as I know, my temperatures aren't that high, are they? For better understanding, my specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 1700X Motherboard: MSI B350 PC Mate RAM: 16GB DDR4 3200 MHz G.Skill Power Supply: 650 Watt Enermax Triathlor ECO Modular 80+ Bronze I really don't know what's the damn problem here. Maybe my Motherboard is kinda broken? Thanks in advance for all responses! :) Best regards
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Hi there, I'm new to CPU overclocking and i'm wondering if overclocking the memory can affect a CPU overclock in terms of stability. I also have some other related questions which i will ask at the end. So my setup is as follows: CPU: Ryzen 1700X Motherboard: ASUS Prime X370-Pro RAM: GSKILL FlareX DDR4-3200 16GB (8GBx2) CL14-14-14-34 1.35 Volt GPU: ASUS Strix OC 1080TI PSU: Corsair RM 850W CPU Cooler: Noctua U14S with Noctua 140mm fan Case Fan Config: 3 x 140mm front intake and 1 x 140mm rear outtake Case: Fractal Define S Latest BIOS version I've watched a few YouTube guides on ryzen overlocking and I've managed to get a stable overclock of 3.9 GHz with a voltage of 1.41250 volts. I ran three benchmarks with the results below: Cinebench: PASS with a max temp of 68°C (score of 1674) OCCT for 15 min: PASS with a max temp of 75°C ASUS Realbench for 15 min at 8GB RAM: PASS with a mex temp of 76°C It should be noted that I used the bios for this overclock and I was running with default RAM speeds which i believe is 2400 MHz, (I didn't enable the D.O.C.P profile in the bios). I also didn't touch any of the more advanced settings and just changed the CPU Core Ratio and CPU Core Voltage. So next i wanted to overlock my RAM to it's advertised speed of 3200 MHz with this stable CPU overclock. So this time I enabled the D.O.C.P profile and selected 3200 MHz for the RAM speed. And changed nothing else. I kept the same CPU voltage of 1.41250 volts. However upon re-running the three benchmarks again, cinebench passed but the other two didn't and crashed due to instability. So I went back into the bios and changed the D.0.C.P profile from 3200 MHz to 2933 MHz. And this time I managed to get it stable again, albeit with higher max temperatures as you can see below: Cinebench: PASS with a max temp of 71°C (score of 1703) OCCT for 15 min: PASS with a max temp of 77°C ASUS Realbench for 15 min at 8GB RAM: PASS with a mex temp of 80°C This is where the main question ties in. Can a higher memory overclock using D.O.C.P profiles have the potenital to decrease the stability of a CPU overlock? I also have three additional questions, that being; is 1.41250 volts a good voltage for a 3.9 GHz CPU overlock in terms of the silicon lottery, or is that rather high? As I've seen some people manage 3.9 GHz and beyond at lower voltages with the Ryzen 1700X. Is a max temperature of 80°C safe for a 100% CPU load benchmark? (Of course games will never have this impact on a CPU) And for the final question, is there any other tweaks or advanced bios settings I can use to possibly decrease the voltage whilst still maintaining a stable overlock of 3.9 GHz on the CPU or even 4GHz if I dare? I've heard of some settings such as Load Line Calibration for example. Any advice would be apprieated. Thanks, GR412.
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- ryzen 1700x
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I've managed to overlock my Ryzen 1700x stable to 3.9 GHz at 1.41 volts but no lower. I tested stability by using the OCCT and ASUS realbench stress tests for 15 min, as well as playing games for a day. Details of my process and my setup can be found in my previous question here: I've also overlocked my RAM to 3200 MHz using the built in D.O.C.P profile and setting the DRAM voltage to 1.4, as well as other settings such as setting the LLC to level 2 and increasing the SOC voltage to 1.15. I found those other settings helped with stability by watching this video: I'm wondering what other peoples voltages are for a stable overlock on their Ryzen 7 chip, as i've seen some people claim to get 3.9 GHz or even 4Ghz at much lower voltages than 1.41V. It seems to me I may have got a little unlucky on the silicon lottery, unless i'm doing something wrong. I wouldn't even dare try 4GHz but i'm happy with 3.9 GHz despite what I think is a higher than average voltage.
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- ryzen 1700x
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Hi everybody, i have a question. I have been using my computer for almost a year now. I opened my computer to clean it, do some cable management about 6-7 months ago and one thing i never notice what performance issue, until 2-3 months ago and it became quite clear i had trouble about a week ago. Today, my computer hard close 3 time and i was convince mty power supply was at issue. I tried to swap the PSU and that is when i realise my cable wasnt install properly. I had only 6 pin connected on the 8 for the CPU. I was able to still hit 1500 in cinebench. before putting the cable back in place, i wasnt able to do it without a hard shut down. So my question is, could the past few months ofrunning underpowered have damage my cpu? I know this is an odd situation. Thank you for the input! My computer spec are follow: Ryzen 1700x (now stock) 32 gig ddr 2666 corsair vengeance Gygabite r9 380x asus x370 a-prime psu xfx xrt 750w gold
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This is going to be my first attempt at an actual build log, where I detail rebuilding my PC for the 3rd time. The previous version had to be torn down due to issues with Primochill's Vue (detailed here), and I decided to do some upgrades and to redo the loop. Parts List: Original PC: Previous Mods: The new mods planned: Adding an Aquaero 6xt Adding a custom basement to house the AQ Using the new basement to redo the loop with more parallel lines, using bulkhead fittings. Adding USB 3.1 gen 1 Type C to replace the top I/O and the mess of cables needed for 4 USB 3.0 ports - In progress Adding an inline filter to the loop (I had it on hand from my adventures with Vue) - Complete Adding UV lighting Adding Primochill True UV purple fluid that will replace the Vue. Potential repainting of radiators Sleeving remaining cables - In progress And of course, replumbing the system. Ill try to update with photos as often as possible. The system is currently fully taken apart and scattered across my apartment. Im currently working on case mods and the new basement. To see the process of dealing with Primochill Vue, see the link above. Due to that ordeal, I had to tear down the loop, and deep clean the blocks and rads. I used Mayhems Blitz and Primochill is going to be sending me a beta rad cleaning fluid. Ill update asap on that. Thanks for reading!
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So recently i saw a ryzen graph for ryzen 2700x that said 10% gains on gtx 1080. I don't know if I'm asking this question correctly but how many CPU upgrades can i do before upgrading wont bring higher gains to my graphics card?
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My Cpu temperature for my Ryzen 1700x is at 42-43c when idleing, is that normal? I am using a high tier cooler which is the Noctua NH-D15, and from other comments I have seen, people had said they have gotten way lower temperatures than what I have, around 30c with their Noctua fan and 1700x, why is that? Also im not even overclocked either... im running this chip at 3.5 ghz
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i've been keeping my eye on the 1700 for a long time now, but i found that the 1700X is selling for only $10 more than the 1700. is it worth the upgrade? keeping in mind that its cheaper for me to get the 1700 within my budget as i'll be using the stock cooler it comes with. Getting the 1700X for only $10 more seems to be a good (even if there's no different in performance between them as they can be both be OC), and i like the extra upgrades the "X" version comes with. but that also means i be need to purchase a cooler that would cost me an extra $60~$120. I just like to know other peoples opinions in this
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