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So I got the USW 48 switch and it went boom. On closer inspection, I found out that the 68uf 400W capacitor on the power circuit is swollen and it is the probable cause for burning out the fuse and resistors r20 to r24. I have no problem finding the capacitor or the fuse but the resistors are so burnt that I have no clue what they are. I'm hoping that someone could help me to find the replacement components

Long read so be ready: I use my TV as the display for my media PC and sometimes I laugh, caugh or sneeze or talk and I leave small drops of saliva in the screen. After cleaning the screen with a microfiber cloth microfiber cloth (same used to clean eye glasses) and water, there was a stain in it that turned out to be either the Anti Reflective Coating of it or the Ultra Viewing Angle layer being removed. It was pretty visible when the TV was off or it was displaying fully black content with any other source of light in the room. I got this TV because of the great black levels it can produce and how bright it is for living rooms. I decided I would rather take consistency than keeping it the way it was and I tried different types of materials to rub the layer out, from softest to roughest. The one that gave me the best result was Paper Towels, the same you most likely use in the kitchen to clean stuff. It was taking way too much time and a lot of elbow grease so I actually used a polishing machine and put paper towels in the disc to complete the task. The result is a super glassy finish which I really like a lot. However, not everything is great because under some heavy heavy light you can see some micro scratches that look like smudge. It is not noticeable in a regular use but I can't take my mind off it and would like to finish the job with great success. I am thinking on either applying an oleophobic coating to the entire TV or buy another antireflective/protective film to get rid of the micro scratches. Similar to when the glue of the protective film of a phone fills the gaps created by a scratch with your nail due to a lot of use. I wanted to know if someone has applied an oleophobic coating in something big like an iPad or a table to know if it's feasible in a 50 inch TV and maintain a consistent application without more stains, smudges or something like that or if someone has any other recommendation. I will add pictures that show the 1.- Half way done process with napkins and hand work. 2.- Finished job while playing Warzone that show it's almost impossible to see 3.- Me polishing the actual screen in case you have any doubt. 4.- Picture with flash showing the "smudges" I hope someone from Linus Tech Tips team sees this and thinks of it as a great project for a video. Crazy ways or ways to remove a scratch from your screen and compare results.

Hi Fellow Techies I posted on the LTT Reddit but I feel like most active members are on the official forum here so apologies if this is the second time you read this. I don't know if this is the right place to ask but I recently broke my gaming headset (the Logitech G Pro X) and was thinking of making a fun repair project out of it since Logitech support is a pain in the a@# and doesn't offer any repair options. I've tried a lot of troubleshooting, different cables, software updates, different PC, tried analog instead of USB, all yielded the same result. Now I am not a professional but as a true LTT fan I diagnosed my own problem as being that my 3.5 port is most likely broken due to the forceful ejection. I want to take it to a local repair shop but I was wondering (if the problem is diagnosed correctly) how hard it would be to solder on a new port or even repair it (but for repairing I don't know what to look for) I don't really want to buy a new pair since it's such a waste cause everything worked perfectly before. Any peripheral repairers in chat? Thanks in advance for your time

I've made a short script that uses CHKDSK, DISM, and SFC to fix many common Windows-related** problems. The download is at the bottom and here's the whole "code" so you can see it's not something malicious. I've tried explaining each step. The script needs to be run as administrator in order to work properly. Hope this helps at least some of you. ** This script does not apply to Windows 7, some commands are newer. Should work fine on Win 10 and 8.1. @echo off color 0C title WinFix script for LinusTechTips forum members made by 191x7 echo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! echo ! The script contains 4 procedures. echo ! The 1st procedure checks the disk - regular Checkdisk - 1 phase echo ! The 2nd procedure checks and repairs the Windows Component Files - 2 phases echo ! The 3rd procedure checks and repairs the Windows image - 4 phases echo ! The 4th procedure uses System file check to check system files - 1 phase echo ! In Windows 7 only CHKDSK and SFC work, the rest is new (Windows 8 +) echo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! echo PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE. pause >null del null cls echo ------------------------------------------------- echo Checking the Windows partition - procedure 1 of 4 echo ------------------------------------------------- chkdsk c: /scan echo ------------------------------------------- echo If it finds some problems, run chkdsk c: /f echo ------------------------------------------- echo PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE. pause >null del null cls echo ------------------------------------------------ echo Windows component files check - procedure 2 of 4 echo ------------------------------------------------ Dism.exe /online /Cleanup-Image /StartComponentCleanup /ResetBase echo -------------------------------------------------- echo Phase 1 of 2 completed echo -------------------------------------------------- Dism.exe /online /Cleanup-Image /SPSuperseded echo -------------------------------------------------- echo Phase 2 of 2 completed echo PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE. pause >null del null cls echo -------------------------------------------------------------- echo Checking the integrity of the Windows image - procedure 3 of 4 echo -------------------------------------------------------------- DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth echo -------------------------------------------------- echo Phase 1 of 3 completed echo -------------------------------------------------- DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth echo -------------------------------------------------- echo Phase 2 of 3 completed echo -------------------------------------------------- DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth echo -------------------------------------------------- echo Phase 3 of 3 completed echo PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE. pause >null del null cls echo ------------------------------------------------- echo Running System file check - procedure 4 of 4 echo ------------------------------------------------- sfc /scannow echo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- echo If SFC found some errors and could not repair, re-run the script after a reboot. echo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- echo PRESS F TO PAY RESPECTS. pause >null del null LTT WinFix by 191x7 v13.03.19.bat

A couple of days ago my Steam Deck and an Anker battery just broke. For the Steam Deck there was no warning and no action which took place beforehand that could be an obvious cause of the issue. I just one day unplugged the device from the official Steam Deck charger and it did not turn on. The charging indicator light does not do anything either. When I say the Deck broke it BROKE. Just to clarify, there were no signs of life from the console. A little after I noticed a similar story for the Anker battery. I tried to charge my phone with it but it just would not charge. Then, I noticed the batteries indicator lights would not do anything. Just like the Steam Deck, the battery also showed absolutely zero signs of life. So I began considering what may have caused the issue. Currently I have no solid conclusion, but it is possible that the Steam Deck Charger could be the cause as that is the primary charger I use for both devices. Except possibly not, as I use the same charger for my phone and my phone functions (for the most part). So I am at a loss here, my Steam Deck ran out of warranty so warranty is not an option. As for the Anker battery I have yet to see.

Hi, I started experiencing an issue where installing the latest Nvidia drivers leads to a crash, then windows system repair when my PC restarts. I ended up buying mostly new parts and doing a clean install of Windows so at this point the only 2 components which aren't brand new are my GPU and PSU. The issue has persisted no matter what I've tried to do. I wasn't able to update to the most recent drivers on Nvidia's site so I ended up installing 537.58 which is working, but not working great. Since installing, I've been playing a lot of The Finals and experiencing extremely frequent Unreal Engine crashes which the internet says are caused by driver corruption. I'm starting to worry that my 3080 has gone bad after barely a year of extremely light use. (~90% of the time it's been used has been playing TF2, watching Youtube and using Microsoft Excel.) At this point it seems that it's either my PSU not delivering enough power or my GPU going bad long before it should. What do you guys think? My build is as follows: GPU: Gigabyte Windforce RTX 3080 (16 months old) CPU: i5 14500 (Brand New) PSU: Corsair TX650m (4.5 years old) MOBO: Asrock B760M PG Sonic Wifi (Brand New) Ram: 16GBx2 G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5 (Brand New) SSD: WD Blue SA510 1 TB (Brand New) Water Cooler: 2X 120mm Cooler Master RGB (Brand New) OS: Fresh install of Win11 Pro GPU Driver: Geforce Game Ready Driver 537.58 (Released 10/10/2023)

Hi all, I recently bought a used PS5 off of Ebay. I was aware in the listing that the disk drive had been replaced after the original was not accepting disks, but the listing stated that the original had been put back into the console. I want to reface really quickly that I am aware of the right way to put the disks in (vertical console = label of disk facing left side of console, and horizontal console = disk is put in "upside down" (label of disk facing downwards), and have tried all of the following disks with the console in both orientations, with no difference. I also do not have any external devices plugged into the console (no accessories or external drives), which I had seen unplugging those to be a fix on some older threads i found on a few sites. The disk drive can detect DVDs and Blu-ray movies, but not games (I only have a PS4 game to test with but that should still work, and it's not on the "PS4 only games" list (it's Bloodborne, if you were curious )). The console states that "This disk isn't supported by the PS5" a few seconds after inserting the game. The disk drive will play DVDs just fine, but will error out when launching a Blu-ray disk ("Something went wrong". Error: CE-110558-0). I couldn't find that error code online except for an old Ebay listing, so idk what it refers to. I buy consoles marked as "for parts" since I am well acquainted with electronic repairs, so I thought I would just be able to crack into the disk drive and find some simple fix (It's amazing how often you can fix hardware issues just by reseating cables). Upon opening up the console, fishing out the disk drive (wasn't worried about warranty as the drive had been removed previously), and reseating cables/checking solder points/cleaning lens with high % IPA (not the drinkable one ofc), it still did not want to behave. I also went onto the Playstation support page to look for answers and tried accessing Safe Mode and selecting "Clear Cache and Rebuild Database", with no luck. Same thing for selecting "Reset PS5 (Reinstall System Software)" - no luck there either. That's when I stumbled across the Ifixit part listing for the disk drive (I didn't see it at first when I went on the page for a guide, as it was part of the motherboard listing), where it stated that PS5 motherboards are paired to the disk drives, and games (I assume Blu-rays are part of it as well, assuming this is the issue) will not work when the disk drive is not the original, paired one. So, I am wondering if the drive not being the original is the root cause of my issues, or if there could be something i'm missing here. If the drive not being original is the case, I'm wondering if i should try to contact the seller to get the other, paired drive just to see if i can fix that one up, assuming the seller has it still and was willing to send it to me. . TL;DR: Bought a used PS5, disk drive was replaced by seller but original "was put back in", game disks won't read but DVDs do, and the motherboard and disk drives are supposed to be paired together, but I'm not sure if that is the issue as I am not able to confirm that this is the original disk drive. . Thank you all in advance for your help

I'm looking for replacement panel for my HP gaming laptop, and found these 2 L71941-001 with 144Hz 40 pin L71938-001 with 60Hz 30 pin Both were referenced with the service manual on page 53, but it wasn't super explicit on that regard.

Summary Apple has announced that they will release diagnostic software for DIY repairs to help identify issues and test parts for the public. According to their claims, the software contains the same features and capabilities AASP and Apple's independent repair program uses. Moreover, they are expanding the SRP to newer devices like the iPhone 15 series and M2 Macs as well. The program has also been released officially in 35 countries. My thoughts Nice to see that Apple is slowly releasing parts and software for independent shops and DIY users. One of the main pain points was the lack of a diagnostic tool and hopefully, this is the beginning where that starts to change. Sources Apple diagnostics software being made available for DIY repairs (9to5mac.com)

Currently have a 75" Samsung TV model: un75au8000fxza. Currently when plugged in there is no standby light, and the tv is not getting any power to it. I replaced the power supply board, and it did not fix the issue, next step was going to be replacing the main board. Is it worth it or is the main board likely not the problem either? Any suggestions are appreciated.

i have this ancient pc it works perfectly fine, i got it up and running and it works decent enough ( intel hd 61 + 2 gb ddr3 ram + pentium + 500gb and 160gb hdd. then i found an old gpu and decided to see if it still worked or not. i slotted in the gpu and turned the pc on. it didnt output anything on the display and kept rebooting. not only that but it screwed some of the windows files and my pc would get stuck in starting windows until i used a system restore point. also for like the next half an hour after i pulled the gpu out, the psu was basically leaking what i mean is the frame was electrified i could feel it by touching and then it randomly fixed itself but hey i used a system restore point and now the pc is fine. now i want to try to fix the gpu. how would i go about doing that?

Hey all, my close to 8 years old cheap gaming mouse cannot hold the left botton, and I am looking for a replacement. A repairable replacement, wired only or not, weight is no concern. I am sort of comfortable with throughhole soldering, and quite comfortable with screws.

I am taking apart a laptop that had coffee spilled on it and the coffee didn't make it past the keyboard and I only saw traces of it in a motherboard screw. The keyboard ribbon feels stuck I have tried tweezers and very carefully with pliers but to no avail, there is no flip-up thing. Is there something I can use to loosen it up?

Ok.. I am aware I am an idiot here and I have made a massive mistake here. I was taking apart my laptop to replace the thermal paste. Everything was going swell up until I went to plug my EDP display cable into the white strip port. This is when it sparked and burnt off one of the pins. I have already purchased a replacement display cable, however is there anything else I should do (besides removing the battery instead of being lazy) to ensure that my next cable doesn’t have its pins melt…

so this is the back side of my gtx 760 and as you can see im missng a recifier and i was wondering if i need the exact same model or if i can just get any old rectifier thanks for any help :3

I was helping a friend install a new ssd in her MSI gs65 laptop and while putting it all back together I knocked the connector for the trackpad off the motherboard. For now I closed it all up and she is useing it with a mouse, but I would like to fix it if possible. I have basic experience soldering, but a couple of the pads seem to have come off the motherboard with the connector, how would I go about fixing this? Any help is appreciated, and if there is a better place to post let me know

Computer Type: Desktop GPU: ASRock Radeon 6800 XT phantom gaming graphics card 16gb CPU: Intel i9-9900k Motherboard: Z390-A PRO motherboard BIOS Version: Latest RAM: 32 gb ddr4 PSU: GIGABYTE GP-UD750GM 750W 80 Plus Gold Certified Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 CASE: Corsair 4000D fans spin, lights are on. Monitor not post/detecting it. My 2nd monitor that's plugged into motherboard doesn't turn on either (shows no signal) with the 6800 XT in. This is my 2nd 6800xt GPU. I RMAd the first one and it still doesn't post. So i dont think its a dead GPU what I tried: -tried all ports -I updated my bios. -removed cmos battery for 30 minutes -changed pcie slot from auto to Gen 3 in bios. -DDU my nvidia driver. -My 2060 card works fine. I have no way of testing GPU on another PC atm

So, I bought a Razer Blade Pro 17 (2019) (rz09-03148E13) about 7 1/2 months ago. It's a second hand on eBay but was taken really good care of. I don't think it was super heavily used because I've NOTICABLE worn it down physically since then. The track pad's surface has gotten worn from miles of finger tracking, the paint on grill for the front most bottom fan has started to come off leaving specks of silver unpainted metal, and a similar effect has occurred in the form of a bare metal colored ring pultruding about a mm out all around the charging port from the constant plugs and unplugs, and now one of the two side pins are broken off at the base of the plug. SO, I've found that this port is readily available online from 3rd party sellers (likely 3rd shift or reverse engineered work from a Chinese factory by the looks of it), and I'm gonna buy 2 (one for now, and another in case I need to replace the port again and it happens to be that we've started an international war with China in the meantime, and their manufacturing base has imploded leaving me with no parts). What I would like to know is how much longer can I reasonably expect to get out of this laptop at this point (assuming no accidents and discarding things like soldering on new ports)? Is it likely that I'm gonna develop a GPU or CPU fault in the next year or two? In other words, what usually kills these laptops beyond the point that it's economical to repair them? I should note, this is technically a business/prosumer laptop. I game on it, program on it, run CGI renders on it, etc. I have a backup laptop, but would like to "exit gracefully" while getting my money's worth out of it. What's my prognosis?

Unsure whether or not this is the right sub section for this post but anyways. I have the tv mentioned in the title. When plugging in and turning on the screen flashes for a second then goes black, through the research I’ve done I have replaced both the TCON and Main boards. Upon doing so, screen is still black but now has some sort of lines running through it(still to dark to see anything but the movement of those lines). What should my next step be on this project?

I bought a switch on eBay and of course I trust people too much and I kinda got scammed. The sd card connector won’t fit/fits extremely loose in the Nintendo switch but that’s not the main problem I’m having. Whenever I even slightly bump the switch, it powers off and I have to press the power button. It doesn’t seem to fully shut off however. Does anybody know what’s going on? It also happens whenever I connect the sd card connector while the switch is actively on.

Bought this MOBO for a great price and trying to repair it. There is a scratch at the back from what I assume is some weird screw installation mishap but it doesn't seem deep. Do you guys think this will still be okay?

Hi all, my Asus PRIME X570-Pro has a damaged PCB trace due to a screw driver damaging it. I have the tools and soldering skills to repair the trace. However I am unsure how the trace looked like before it was damaged. Please see the attached pictures. If someone has this motherboard, would you be so kind to take a clear picture of the traces where my board is damaged? It is in the area between the first PCIE x16 slot and the chipset fan. Thanks for your assistance with this.

So i tried installing antiX linux on my laptop, which had arch linux with an encrypted partition, i did delete the partition using gparted but it didn't help, then i tried formatting the entire drive using dd, but its still there, so i can't install anything. Every time i try to install antiX, it asks for password, but the encryption password i used on arch doesn't work, nor does the user and root password. Does anyone know how do i remove it? edit: i think antiX just sucks, since kali installed with no problems, and i don't regret doing so, because they made xfce look amazing, while using the amount of resources as the normal one

I have here an old s6 i try to repair by switching the battery pack. is it ok to use hotglue as a adhesive to stick the different parts back together. can and will hotglue simply burn if the battery/device gets hot ? thx in advance

Hello! I have this old TV i was thinking of fixing up in my spare time. I figured out that the mainboard needs replacing, but I can't find a board for that particular model of tv, but many other boards with the same part number from different models of the same brand. So I'm just wondering if there will be any compatibility issues with me replacing the board from one of those other models ? If anyone's interested the tv model is : PHILIPS 40PFT4100/12 The part number is : 715G6947-M01-000-004Y The other models i found the part from : 40PFK4200/12, 32PFH4101/88 or 40PFH4101/88. Thanks !