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Showing results for tags 'reliability'.
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So, I bought a Razer Blade Pro 17 (2019) (rz09-03148E13) about 7 1/2 months ago. It's a second hand on eBay but was taken really good care of. I don't think it was super heavily used because I've NOTICABLE worn it down physically since then. The track pad's surface has gotten worn from miles of finger tracking, the paint on grill for the front most bottom fan has started to come off leaving specks of silver unpainted metal, and a similar effect has occurred in the form of a bare metal colored ring pultruding about a mm out all around the charging port from the constant plugs and unplugs, and now one of the two side pins are broken off at the base of the plug. SO, I've found that this port is readily available online from 3rd party sellers (likely 3rd shift or reverse engineered work from a Chinese factory by the looks of it), and I'm gonna buy 2 (one for now, and another in case I need to replace the port again and it happens to be that we've started an international war with China in the meantime, and their manufacturing base has imploded leaving me with no parts). What I would like to know is how much longer can I reasonably expect to get out of this laptop at this point (assuming no accidents and discarding things like soldering on new ports)? Is it likely that I'm gonna develop a GPU or CPU fault in the next year or two? In other words, what usually kills these laptops beyond the point that it's economical to repair them? I should note, this is technically a business/prosumer laptop. I game on it, program on it, run CGI renders on it, etc. I have a backup laptop, but would like to "exit gracefully" while getting my money's worth out of it. What's my prognosis?
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Hey all, I'm LF information about PoE switches vs poe injectors failure rates and whether or not 2 poe injectors would be a better pick for 2 IP cameras over 1 poe switch (unmanaged) for an extended period of time in a closed environment. Couldn't really find useful info by googling it. IMO Injectors would be more reliable because they are simpler and pretty much just a power source, whereas switches have L2 networking which makes them a bit more complex with more things to break. However, 2 injectors might be less reliable than 1 switch, since there's everything times 2 and therefore higher change of sth giving out. Thanks in advance!
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Sup Linus Lovers I'm wondering something and I thought the people here would probably know enough about it: I'm looking for some "basic" but best "bang-for-buck" SATA-SSDs that don't need to be like a top-tier primary NVMe-SSD, cause this isn't for a main system. The way it will be connected is not even completely SATA, but a SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, or at least into a USB 3.0 port. And as far as I could find, that barely saturates the SATA-interface anyway. So it doesn't need the speed for huge file-transfers or very demanding applications, but it still needs to be at that level where it doesn't feel like "I might as well use an HDD". - What should I be looking at if I want an SSD that is "snappy" enough to run a light OS, lighter programs/games, and perhaps as a simple server, but is also very reliable and durable? A few different questions and points pop up: How many IOPS should I be looking at with USB 3.0? - A calculator showed me just over 7600 IOPS for 500 MB/s. - If that's the case, I suppose any SSD would do in terms of IOPS. But tell me whether that's accurate or not. Although I know it's not that black and white, what brands should I be looking at? - Because not that long ago we might all be saying "Samsung", but those seem to have issues now. Like I was looking at some of their QLC drives, which would've been great if they were more reliable and priced better. - So, what? Crucial? Seagate? WD? Kingston? Sandisk? Patriot Memory?... Which brings me to another point: Should I be looking at (newer) QLC SSDs, or should I better just stick to at least TLC SSDs for now? - Perhaps it doesn't really matter and it's actually great for something like this? - I guess I should always make sure that, for operational use, there should be decent DRAM. But without it seems to be more rare nowadays. Also: I know that larger SSDs, first of all are often the better "bang for buck" simply because they're cheaper per Gigabyte compared to their smaller versions, but can also be faster because of... overhead or whatever. - Then again, I probably don't need that extra supposed speed the larger ones might potentially offer. Plus, I intend to save the money with a literal lower price (as long as it's reasonable) compared to a more expensive larger version (ignoring that stepladder-effect), because I really won't need to hit that Terabyte norm, perhaps not even half, but I probably shouldn't go lower than 256GB. In general, the thing is that, while it should be cheap, it shouldn't just be any junk that could easily fail on me and become useless. More in that it's "cheap because it's not the fastest", which isn't a problem in this use case. Any suggestions for technical details or even specific products that fit this description are welcome. - I'd appreciate it.
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Hey guys! I recently bought a 4TB Seagate Barracuda (ST4000DM004) and have just discovered that the failure rate of a close model (ST4000DM000) has an extremely high failure rate. Am I missing something or should I change it for another 4TB drive? Thanks!
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I was researching ways to backup many large media files. I need to be able to export these files fast. I also need it to be reliable and redundant in case I have to go back and retrieve original work.These files consist of multiple wav files, and converting/exporting video formats through Adobe Premier & AE. My system is running an intel 6850k with a msi x99a gmaing pro carbon mobo and 1tb ssd for OS and stuffs. After reading up on the pros and cons of each raid I decided on a plan to use 8 hdds in raid 50, 2 raid 5 arrays with 4 disks each. I've seen an LSI card that fits my needs I think ( I honestly don't know the difference between that and one priced at $300 more). My question is, is this feasible under $1000 with drives and the storage controller included? Is this even the best way to approach the dilemma? What speeds am I gaining over a software raid? Here's the link to the card https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16816118217
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Hi comunity, I would like to ask question about reliability of MoBo manufactures. Which manufactures have best "after-end-of-sales" support of their product? For example SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 from ASUS has BIOS updates almost five years after launch. Please, which manufacturer has best support for their products? Best regards and thank you, Oltskul
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Posted a while back asking if it was worth sacrificing my beer holder and chucking another SSD into my RAID, your thoughts were kinda mixed so i did it anyway just to be sure. After waiting all day copying 860GB off my raid and then back onto it again after the upgrade, i finally got round to running some synthetic tests, and it's looking good. As you can see from the attached screenshot, the array is now trading punches with my boot drive (Kingston Predator PCIe M.2 [AHCI]) which is kinda amusing. Im interested in how the 4K transfers are still so much higher on the PCIe drive though, can anyone explain that ? im curious as to how different buses affect different aspects of drive throughput. Obviously there is only one benchmark of the RAID shown here, i sadly lost the screenshot i took of the diskmark results of my array when it was just 2 SSD's, but from memory the seqential Q32 was about 1000MB/s on reads and about 550MB/s on writes, so a pretty good improvement there. From what i can tell i am already starting to see the fabled diminishing returns on the write speeds, but i am pretty happy with the boost to read speeds that i have gained from a 3rd SSD, as this RAID is where i have all my games installed. Now leaving the world of synthetic benchmarks, i tested game loading times from my RAID, again i dont have any numbers to compare to from the old setup cos, well, im not linus or slick, i don't think of this stuff lol. But i can say that in simulator type games like KSP or BeamNG, there does seem to be a noticable difference in loading times whether that be for levels, assets, or textures. But games like Battlefield or GTA and other "heavier" titles, don't seem to change at all. Is there something inherent about some programs or video games that means there is simply a cap on how fast it can load stuff from the installation directory ?
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Hey Guys im looking for a little bit of an idea really and before you say it... yes i know this is overkill but its been made to be overkill for a reason which is to make sure the system is never stressed and all been well never causes an issue I shall run you through the specs first and then explain: Case: PCI Case 5U 19" Rackmount 8001 with 4x - Silverstone 2x 5.25" Device bay to 3x 3.5" PSU: 1000W Corsair HX1000i (Linked to a UPS) Motherboard: Supermicro MBD-X10SRA-O CPU: Intel Xeon E5-2620 - Socket 2011-3 Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H80i V2 RAM: 2x 32GB Samsung DDR4, PC4-19200 (2400) Cache: Silverstone SST-ECM20 2 Port M.2 Expansion Card + 2x 250GB Samsung 960 Evo NVMe M.2 Storage: 10x 6TB Seagate ST6000NM0024 Nearline V.4 Enterprise NIC: 2 Port Intel X540-T2 10 Gbps The backstory basics of this is that there is an internal 10Gb Network for the main computers on the network with everywhere wired with CAT6a given the property is in the process of being renovated so only made sense to run the cables while i could allbe it most of the devices on the network will be running at 1gb/s its there to future proof. Plex and the NAS run as normal with an external link directly in via VPN from the Work server to my system with a 300Mb/s download 30mb/s up connection to deal with that which is plenty. Ok to the gritty point... This system is mainly going to be used as a Plex Server, NAS and a Backup for my companies offsite. As you can see the drives are the highly rated Seagate enterprise drives that Linus raved about a while ago and i have never had any issues with this capacity of drive however when it comes down to how to run this beast i am a little lost. So far the current ideas are either running UnRaid as the back bone which is by far the most professional way of doing it, the other which i have just stumbled over after all this time is Microsoft Storage pools which appear to work in a similar way to UnRaid's Storage pools. Has anybody had any experience pitting these two against each other and the differences in performance between the two? UnRaid makes things a little more complex down the road as obviously i could just use a copy of Windows 10 Pro to run the Storage pools however i kind of get the feeling that the UnRaid server with a 10GBe NIC in there will do the job just as well, but ties the rest of the system up and i don't really want to run VM's on the Storage array for my needs. Windows 10 Pro would be the most convenient way but that means nothing in technology if there is a better way! anybody can help i would be really grateful! Sorry for this post sounding rushed, im just leaving the office so need to get out haha!!!!
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We often see buget gaming builds using some old optiplex 775 with a good old Q6600 but some people are scared of "used" so here is what we mean when we say "reliable" or "overengineered" by the way this is an even older version of optiplex with a pentium 4 credits goes to Shawn K for the video -channel link:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9PTo9A5SmqtKTrpWOWKNbA
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So I do photo and video for weddings and am looking to speed up small portions of my workflow by keeping all the footage on ssd's rather than hdd's for edting purposes. The only thing that is holding me back right now is my apprehension regarding read and write cycles on ssd's and their lifespan. I usually am editing one wedding a week which is around 100–250GB going on and off a drive on a regular basis. How quickly do you think the drive would become defunct and do you think purchasing a 500gb m.2 ssd for video editing would be a good choice?
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I am a cinematagrapher,and I want to get a 4tb hard drive drive to store all of my work on. I am pretty much only worried about reliability, I dont want to loose data or keep having to buy another drive every two years. From my past research I have discovered that HGST (Hitiachi) has the most reliable hard drives, with a failure rate on less than 1%, the only downfall is that a 4TB HGST drive is $30-$40 more expensive than a external WD or Seagate of the same size. If I only used the drive as a backup, with minimal read and writes, would the drive brand matter in terms of reliability?
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theoretically im upgrading a system that i don't know what contains yet all i know is it was built when Win 7 was released. im going to find out what the system is right before i go pick up the 750ti and new psu for it to see if its worth doing but i dont want to have to pick a psu on the spot and so from the 2 store catalogs i have im looking i found the Antec vp500p which seems to be pretty reliable, what i need to know is: is this a reliable psu to power a 750ti with what i can only assume is an lga 1156 system?
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Hey Guys Upgrading an older pc for my friend and im looking for a power supply for it. now while going through the catalog of my local pc stores i found the "FSP AS-650 FSP AURUM S 650W 80+ GOLD" now this is interesting because i would usually consider a GOLD rating as being applied to more expensive units however this thing only costs $109(AUD) so what i want to know is: is thing reliable? i know FSP for making pretty decent Power supplies but i want confirmation on this one
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I'm currently looking for a new, more powerful UPS to replace my Back UPS Network 40 & I need at least 10 minutes of runtime based off my specs below. Additionally, also having the ability to automatically shut down my PC in case I'm in the shower & can't make it back on time is important. Here's the best choices I've been able to find on Newegg so far, please let me know which would be best for my use & maximum $250.00 budget excluding shipping. Should I even bother with the last 2 options as they're the lowest power? Is the 1st option worth the tradeoff of less power to be "Smart" & that in regard to automatic shutdowns? APC SMC1000 Smart-UPS 1000VA 120-Volt APC BR1500G Back-UPS Pro 1500VA APC BX1500M Back-UPS Pro 1500VA APC BR1300G Back-UPS Pro 1300VA APC BR1000G Back-UPS Pro 1000VA System Specs: EVGA G2 550W (No 1 told me about THIS when I researched & purchased it last Fall so it's not my fault, don't think I have brownouts though). MasterCase Pro 3 (2 x 140mm Fans) Ryzen 5 1500X (Not Currently OC'd But Hopefully Soon) MSI B350M Gaming Pro 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200 (2933 Due To BIOS) 3GB MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X (2062 Core 9408 Memory) 250GB Samsung 850 EVO Windows 10 Home 19" 1600x900 Acer V206HQL (Medium Brightness I Think?) CM Storm QuickFire Full Mechanical Keyboard Cherry MX Brown Corsair KATAR Mouse. Basic DSL Modem/Router Device
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Hey guys! So, here's the thing. I remember the OCZ Trion 100 series of SSDs being fast and inexpensive, but disgustingly unreliable. However, OCZ came out with new budget SSDs earlier this year, which are known as the Trion 150 series. So far, I've heard that these drives are more reliable than their predecessors...much more, in fact! What do you guys think? What've you guys heard? Is the Trion 150 budget SSD worth getting, or are the budget SSDs from PNY or another company better? Thanks for the help! --TechStorm
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Disclaimer: Before you mention it, no. Please don't bother mentioning the Samsung evo or Pro. They are £70 for the cheapest model in 240gb for me and I don't have it in my budget, also Samsung is able to make bad drives. Now thats out of the way. WD Green, SP A55, Patriot Burst or PNY CS900? Could stretch to a blue or a mx ssd My range is 30-40. Its 240gb and gonna be my boot drive for my pc!
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Hello there community! I was wandering if you could help me decide on what to buy between the two (WD Elements Portable, Segate Expansion Portable) The drive will be used as a storage drive for photos, documents and all sort of data. I will put all that data there for good, it's not going to be a backup drive, it will be a mass storage drive. To put it simply I need a reliable drive as I will have all my important data on it. The drive will not stay plugged in all the time and will be taken care of properly. BTW And advice on how to take care of it to make it last longer? ? Cheers! ? P.S. The drive will be a 1TB model
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Hi everyone, I'm looking to overclock an i5-8600k and the ML240R from CoolerMaster looks like a good deal but I always hear stories about AIOs leaking into the system. Does anyone have first experience with this AIO or dealing with CoolerMaster's warranty system? Would they be as good as say, any NZXT Kraken Model, in terms of reliability at least? I am aiming for nice looking build and a clunky looking air cooler would pretty much ruin that and my chances of OCing. Custom loop is out of the question for me as I have no experience in this field and I know they require maintenance on a regular basis which can be tricky work. Cheers.
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Hello, I can’t chose between Razer blade 15 and Dell XPS 15 (9570). I am architecture student and use Revit, Photoshop, illustrator and 3Dmax daily. So GPU power is important. I would go with Razer blade but the big problem is that in 11 months I will leave USA and go back to Europe so after those 11 months if something happens to razer I am in trouble cause razer don’t have international warranty. The other choice is Dell XPS 15 9570 which have much weaker GPU but if I take premium support I will have international warranty and safety net if something happens after I leave USA. My question probably is which one to chose the one with much greater power but higher risk or safer but weaker option? And maybe some body use razer blade, how often do they break after first year use? P.s. I have heard that if laptop is fine after first few months then it should work good in long term. (No clue if it is true)
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https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Benyamin/saved/GyWNNG I'm narrowing down the best motherboards for my build and so far it seems like the ASRock has better reviews then the STRIX Z370-E when it comes to quality and reliability, but I'm not sure if there are more advantages that come with ASRock to make it worth switching. What are your thoughts?
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Hello, I'm having trouble selecting a motherboard for my new system... I need an ATX AM4 mobo that: Will last me about 5-7 years / reliable. Has quality power phases / good overclocker. Under 150 dollars. motherboards im considering: Asrock X370 Killer SLI/ac MSI B350 Gaming Pro Carbon Asrock AB350 Pro4 I'll appreciate it so much if you guys can help me. Please let me know if there is something better out there that fit my needs.
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So, I'm building a new system and want to know if I should pick up a WD or Hitachi 1TB hard drive. The Hitachi costs ~$2 more than the WD, and I want to hear the community's opinion. Which drive should I get? Hitachi: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-1TB-3-5-SATA-3-0-Gbps-7200-RPM-Hard-Drives-0F12627-Tested/162876155355?epid=1165056823&hash=item25ec2ce5db:g:0wIAAOSwSrNaTkYN WD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WD10EADS-11P8B1-Western-Digital-Green-1TB-SATA-3-5-HDD-32MB-WD10EADS/232665772563?epid=72373243&hash=item362bf5f213:g:ztcAAOSwjytahKXQ Preferably 1-2TB, 7200RPM drives is what I want for this system, but for cheap.
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Hey folks, I am wondering if any of you have come across a similar scenario. I have Synergy running on my Surface Pro 4, as well as my Asus laptop. My main desktop computer acts as the server, and the laptops are clients. I have always had reliability issues with synergy and Wi-Fi, so I ran ethernet to my Asus laptop to solve that, unfortunately, there are no ethernet ports on the Surface Pro 4 and the Surface Pro docking station is far outside my budget right now. As a matter of fact, I have noticed that synergy is even less reliable on my surface than it was on the ASUS laptop. I run Ubiquiti Unifi Access points in my home so wireless access is definitely not a problem here, but I still want to ask if anyone has some configurations they have tried that work well on wifi? Thanks!
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I just got a seagate Barracuda 3TB, and i'm looking on the internet, and it doesn't seem to have a good reputation at all. Starting with https://www.newegg.com/global/mx/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178994 to even videos and coments everywhere (FB, youtube, etc) saying that seagate is shit. I really don't know if i should return the hardrive to the shop and get a refund, or just keep it and see what happends.
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First of all, Hi everyone, first time here. I wanted to ask whether anyone else here has had problems with MSI laptops' hinge mechanism. I have a MSI GE 72VR for over two years now, and the hinge has seemed pretty flimsy. It started making cracking noises after 4 months of ownership. Then the other the day the hinge ripped straight out of the plastic frame that it was attached to. So basically they have a short stubby hinge like 2 or 3 inches long and attach it into the the laptop lid itself, which is made of plastic. A pretty lame solution. The cracking sounds were from various screws cracking the plastic, since there are 8 total holding the hinge to the lid. It doesn't help that MSI torqued the hinge REALLY tight, so it's not easy to open my MSI laptop with one hand; it's the same for my friend who owns a MSI GS stealth laptop. (His hasn't broken yet, but he remarks like it feels he's breaking his laptop lid every time he opens it) Feels almost like they designed it to break in mind. Really let down because everything else in the laptop seems to be of decent quality. Main point I wanted to ask: Anyone else have this kind of problem with MSI laptops? And have they fixed this in their recent designs? Or would you even consider this to be legitimate problem and that it should be something I should expect. BTW torqued the hinge to a looser setting and ordered a new lid off ebay to fix my laptop to attempt to keep it going.