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Found 1,106 results

  1. hello, i am confused between the razer kraken pro v2 and the razer kraken 7.1 v2 as i am able to buy both at the same price. but the 7.1 has a usb connector and i want to use my headphones with my phone too. people say that the headsets with usb connectors tend to be better then the 3.5mm audio jack one on audio quality as it has the amp and dack inbuilt but i have a good mobo the asus crosshair vi which has the supremefx sound card, so will the 7.1's audio be better OR the kraken pro v2 with supremefx. i dont know that i will be needing the 7.1 surround sound or not are there any benefits? (I now what is 7.1 surround sound)
  2. Ok, I have a fully speced out Late 2016 blade stealth, worth 1600 USD new. It has been abused and has a small dent, w/ some chipped paint. A friend told me It would be worth about $1400. I also have a razer core w/ a 1060 3GB in it. So, I was wondering, would it be a good Idea to sell it for the new one w/ a larger QHD display? Currently my biggest issue w/ the stealth is the 4k Display. I am a gamer, and It is my only laptop other than an Old ASUS that im gonna slap an SSD into soon. It has 8GB DDR3 ram and a GTX950m so It cant game that well. So, the blade stealth's 4k display isnt the best for gaming on a Dual core w/ a bottlenecked 1060. So, should I sell it for a new one, or not. Also, I am considering getting the Razer blade Late 2016, and selling the core and Blade stealth to get it. Any halp is appreciated.
  3. Hey so I have a bit of an issue here. I recently purchased a macbook pro 15in about a week ago and absolutely hate it. I'm getting a refund for it but now I need to figure out what to get as a replacement. So far I've narrowed it down to the Dell xps 15 9560 and the razer blade (I wanna say v6?). I am looking for something that can handle gaming on the go but also isn't horribly massive or hot. 4k is highly preferred which I guess is why I'm having an issue with this choice. Is it better to wait for the UHD version of the razer blade? Or should I just pull the trigger on the xps 15. I've really only heard good things about the xps but not sure how great the 1050 would be for gaming. What would you guys recommend? Any idea when this UHD razer blade is coming out anyway? Thanks for the help! Edit: If anyone has any recommendations for a good laptop between 2000-3000USD feel free to post them. Edit 2: Looking for a gaming capable 4k ultrabook to be precise (sorry if that is the incorrect term).
  4. I'm a gamer who currently has an Asus g750 JM. It served me well for a couple of years but it hasn't adapted to well with college. It's way too heavy to carry around. Initially I intended to buy an Alienware 13. It seemed like a logical choice. Good quality, lightweight, good specs, reasonable price considering what you get and a nice design. But then it hit me, I usually haven't had time for pc gaming during college. Usually when I did game, it was on a console with friends. So then I thought I would buy a non gaming ultrabook and a console. Does anyone know a good ultra book? Like one that costs a maximum of 1350 dollars. Minimum of 8gb of ram, preferably 16 gb. Pcie storage with nvme also would help a lot. Or maybe I'm thinking buying a cheapo but good enough laptop around 300 dollars and then also building a desktop and maybe buying a console. Overall my maximum combined budget would be around 2200 dollars.
  5. Okay so this is the problem, I bought a kraken pro v2 for my phone and Xbox one s for some reason the game sound doesn't work when I plug them in it uses a 3.5mm headphone jack and should work properly any help?
  6. I was going to buy a logitech g930, but i got a really good deal of trading my 3 year old ouroboros mouse for a Razer kraken forged edition with minimal use and buy a 25us mod mic to go with it, what it better? I have a large head and use glasses, so tight headsets bug me and i play CSGO so need that good quality to hear footsteps
  7. Both laptops would have 1060's and 6700hq's in. I want to know what would be good for a person that takes his laptop everywhere he goes for music production (fl studio, metric fuck-ton of vsts in each project) and plays gta V and other similar games when he gets home. I really like the looks and build quality of the blade, but it's almost 400$ more on ebay (I don't have enough to buy new). What should I get.
  8. I recently got a new computer, https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/KNn9LD if its needed, since then my mouse has been jumping all around the screen when im not using it and its near impossible to use as when I do move it will either jump in the opposte reaction or be really laggy. Ive got a new mouse same one Razer Mamba TE and that fixed it for a while but its now started again and my mouse is unsuable, Ive tried different USB ports, turning off all the lighting effects on my mouse and all the software is up to date. Im stuck with some £5 logitech mouse from tescos atm. Ive turned off enhance pointer precision as well fyi the logitech mouse has started doing it now...
  9. Hi LTT forum, I'm a long time quiet member who enjoys Linus' videos. I've never asked anything of you guys, never thought I would have to. I'm posting this in the hopes that people are informed on the state of Razers' customer support, and hopefully get someone that works at Razer to speed up my situation since it's been almost 2 months already, with an expected extra 2-3 weeks longer. TLDR: I have a Razer Blade 14 (2015) laptop that has been at one of there support centers for almost 2 months, to fix a cracked screen (and other smaller issues). Despite constant communication, they constantly inform me that x y and z things go wrong (the latest, a faulty screen replacement) and that they need to order new parts from Singapore which takes 2-3 weeks. So I bought my Razer Blade 14 (2015) in June of 2015 and it has served me great for the last 2 years. Unfortunately I cracked my screen, but I managed without the touchscreen for a year now and I got used to the cracked screen. The reason I decided to send it in was because they opened a European repair shop and that reduced the amount of time I would need to go without my laptop, which is near impossible as a student and going even a week without a laptop makes everything a lot harder. So I communicated with them and they told me that it usually takes 3-5 days. With this information, I waited until spring break and sent them my laptop with the hope that it would be returned before the end of the holidays. I was wrong, after sending them my laptop I was informed that the parts weren't available and they would order them from Singapore. Now, with that being said, it was my understanding that it wouldn't take too long. In the email it says that if the part isn't available, it takes "slightly longer". Slightly longer than 3-5 days doesn't mean 1 month. To them it apparently does. Fine, a month goes by and they inform me that the parts have arrived and the repair should be almost done at this point (9th of May) and according to them, 3-5 days after the 9th is maximum the 14th. On the 24th still no update, at this point I'm getting extremely impatient and I start calling them (the support line is only open from 1-3 pm (German time) every day so I plan accordingly and call them several times. The first response when I inform the guy on the support line of my situation was disbelief. He quickly assures me that its fine and it should be finished within the week. That was on the 24th. Today I called back, and the guy on the support line told me that the screen they received was faulty and they need to order a new one from Singapore and the shipping takes 2-3 weeks. At which point I'm completely outraged. From past experience and waiting time, it will take another month and a bit for the piece to arrive. Not to mention that I asked about the other repairs and some have not been done yet (even though they have had 2 months). It's been almost 2 months. And I expect it to take another month or so. Everything has been paid for already so money isn't the issue they are having. I'm at the end of the semester with finals quickly approaching, a lot of my studying and study material (lecture notes) are on that laptop. I have been a huge fan of razer for years now, among myself and brothers we have each owned more than one razer peripheral at any given time. At this point you have basically lost 3 loyal costumers (even though thats a drop in a bucket for you). My only wish is for the situation to be rectified. Thank you for taking the time to read this, please help me share this so that my issue doesn't fall on deaf ears.
  10. Hey, Everyone. I will bu posting using Tom's hardware laptop question forum since i like its format. (But i like you more) xxx 1. What is your budget? 2700 Euros, 2500 pounds2. What is the size of the notebook that you are considering? 14 or 15 inch3. What screen resolution do you want? 3k or 4k IPS panel with at least 100%srgb coverage4. Do you need a portable or desktop replacement laptop? this will be my main machine5. How much battery life do you need? not a priority 6. Do you want to play games with your laptop? If so then please list the games that you want to with the settings that you want for these games. (Low, Medium or High)? I do play games but not craving for 4k ultra gaming experience. Something like GTx 1060 is all i need7. What other tasks do you want to do with your laptop? (Photo/Video editing, Etc.) Mainly I edit photos in Capture One Pro and Photoshop. Light Video editing at Premiere Pro8. How much storage (Hard Drive capacity) do you need? fast M.2 slot is a must. More storage slots are always better but not a priority. 9. If you are considering specific sites to buy from, please post their links. I can buy from UK or Cyprus. 10. How long do you want to keep your laptop? 4 to 5 years11. What kind of Optical drive do you need? DVD ROM/Writer,Bluray ROM/Writer,Etc ? No need12. Please tell us about the brands that you prefer to buy from them and the brands that you don't like and explain the reasons. I love the Dell XPS 15 but gtx1050 feels I will need more power in a year or two. I hate very flashy gamer laptops (like Alienware). Thinner the better. Something like Gigabyte Aero 15 has good specs but too plastic, thick and ugly beyond reason. MSI Stealth series seems acceptable. New Aorus Max-Q laptop also looks cool but gtx 1080 is an overkill for me and likely will pass my 2700 euros budget.13. What country do you live in? UK/ Cyprus.14. Please tell us any additional information if needed.Although I would love to get a desktop, my current life does not make it logical. Travelling between Cyprus and UK all the time with a prospect to move Finland. As a Photographer display is the most important aspect for me, but I do game from time to time and don't want to run games at 720p low settings in 5 years. Looks kind of matter as well, I am a sucker for cool looking tech. It makes me want to use machine even more (oh my lovely Fuji xt-2).i7 processor with the prospect to upgrade 32gb ram is a must
  11. Hi there folks! I'm having an issue as written in the title and hope I'm posting this in the correct section.Specs:Motherboard: MSI Z97MAudio Driver: Realtek HD Audio Manager (current ver. 6.0.1.8010 but tried multiple)OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bitIssue:I recently lost patience with my headset. It keeps playing/bleeding headphone audio (music, game sound and other people's voice) through the mic.Echo cancellation usually did the trick but every now and then it would stop (usually after unplugging them) and bleed audio until reboot or would just stopped by itself.What I've attempted to fix it:1. "Listen to this device" is 100% off. Tried multiple versions of Realtek Drivers and whatever Windows downloaded. No luck.I have also tried following Razer's guide regarding Kraken issues but they're just basics and didn't help.2. I bought a new splitter, seemed to be a common issue with the splitter that comes with them in the box but no luck. I assumed that the cheap splitter I got was either also broken or it wasn't splitter's fault at all.3. I bought a mini usb sound card. I bought a wrong one because it still required a splitter. Still experienced audio bleeding/crosstalk.4. Tried different headphones with both splitters. Both bled audio into the mic which made me think its the splitters. Then I tried audio from other headphones and mic from Krakens and vice versa. No audio bleeding in both cases. This made me very confused.5. I plugged in normal (without mic) earphones into the front panel and Krakens through a splitter into the mic at the front panel. Also tried it with the rear panel. Both cases showed zero audio bleed. Same result with the other splitter.6. I tried both splitters and headphones on a laptop (no discord, will try later). Krakens showed audio bleed/crosstalk but not the other ones.7. Took apart Krakens. There seemed to be a wire slightly torn. Soldered it back together and covered it in isolation tape. No change when I re did the previous steps.8. There is also this "Direct Audio Power" on this mobo. Originally tested it while it was off but there was no change when I turned it on and re did the steps.Conclusion:I have no idea what is wrong anymore. I've yet to try my headphones on a different PC & different (proper) headphones on my PC. Perhaps a good quality splitter as well.Seems to be an issue where the splitter/PC is using headphones to output and receive audio.I'm at the stage where I want to toss them into the bin and buy something else.I'm open to any suggestions, willing to post pictures of my opened up Krakens and pretty much try anything at this stage as they are out of warrenty. Thanks.
  12. So, this is my very first post, and not even in my native language... so please be kind What is this about? As you may guess, it's an illumination modification from the standard Razer's acid-green to a IR controlled RGB led stripe, on the NZXT H440 case. (Actually, it looks better than the photo... damn cellphone's cameras) How difficult is this mod for me to perform? Well, OCD aside, it's quite simple. That, of course, depending on how much time and effort you wanna put onto it. How much does it cost? Around US$ 30/40 (assuming you already have all the tools) What do I need to perform it? 12V RGB LED Stripe (duh), 2 or 3 m IR LED controller Precision wire cutter Knife or Cutter Phillip screwdriver (N°1 will do) Soldering iron Tin (I recommend a 0.8 mm diameter) Thermal-shrink tubes (for about 2mm, 5mm and 10mm final contraction) 5m of 22 or 24 AWG wire (an ethernet patchcord CAT 5e or 6 will do) Zip ties, electrical tape, wire ties (optional). Glue gun (optional) OK, lets get started... BEFORE ANYTHING Think! Visualize what you want, then draw it on a piece of paper, a nap, or whatever you have in order to calculate wire longitudes, paths and final layout. Even better, surf the web for ideas, past experiences from other users, and tips and recommendations. When you're on unexplored waters, you definitely want to have a compass... or a great amount of faith Also, make sure your workplace is wide and tidy, I can't tell you how much annoying is to lose a precision alignment or a critical soldering because you just don't want to stack away something that blocks your angle or visual. (yep, it doesn't matter how ugly you draw it, as long as you make a clear work route) Remember that the wires lengths should keep a fair amount of gain (this is: a + 10/20% of length of your base calculation) for those places where the original "diagonal-direct path" have several centimeters less that the "go neat and tidy by this path, and then over here, here and here...". If you have no trouble in cable's supply, let the maximum calculated length be the limit... and even, add a 20% more of length just in case (yep, better more than less). Of course, the stock lights need to be put aside. For the bottom ones, they are fixed by a couple of screws that holds the enclosure. Not a challenge... The side and front logo? Keep reading! And so, it begins Ok, so according to your mental blueprint, you should measure each stripe and cut it by the dotted line, followed by stripping the insulation (in case you have a water-proof stripe). A great explanation for it, as a guide in general, is provided by M-L on this post, and this images. (Always measure the length of each stripe to be LESS than the housing where you're going to use it. Remember that any cut made beyond the soldering copper, will leave the RGB LEDs inoperative) Remember that each stripe should be daisy-chained in a linear fashion, that eventually ends in a 4 pin connector that hooks up onto the RGB controller. In my case, I used the 3 pin fan hub to concentrate all the "circuits" of light, and then on the 4th pin (the +12V one), twisted all together and insulate it properly. Make sure you use the same colors in the order established by the LED stripe, or some circuits will light up different colors than expected. (Order is fundamental, take notes of every "convention" you use and stick to it, no matter what you read or what someone tells you) Also, take your time to insulate the connections properly, don't forget that this is an electric connection directly powered by your PSU (more of this later), you DON'T want a short circuit of any kind. You can accomplish this by using thermal shrink tubes of different sizes (according to the weight of your wire), electrical tape, or even a glue gun. Proper insulation is fundamental, this is an ELECTRICAL MOD (And YES, a heat gun would have been a better choice...) The PSU Shroud The first major mod will have place on Razer's logo, both on the side within the PSU shroud, and the front main logo. Regarding the side panel, the whole side panel is held by several metal "tongues", which you must straighten so the plate gets free. Once outside, four screws hold the inner case where the green light is housed. (The side panel comes out with little effort... not so the green layer of paint) Once there, comes the most hateful of all parts: removing the green layer of paint that covers the acrylic panel from the logo. (SPOILER ALERT: it won't look good) (I wish someone had told me "Dude, just DON'T") At first I tried with a pointed tweezers, but then I found that a small torx screwdriver fitted better. You may find useful whatever tool you have, as long as the job is done. Keep in mind that an inner bevel help you a little bit by letting the tool "travel" along the groove. I have no idea if a dremel drill tool with a small point could make this less hateful, but if you have one to try and come back with your expertise, BE MY GUEST. (It keeps getting worse) Anyway, no matter what I used, it was an awful experience. The type of material was a kind of synthetic paint that, even with care and patience, it peeled off and cracked it beyond the logo lines... man, I hated myself, at NZXT, and even Min-Liang Tan. You may think that the same goal could be achieved by using some kind of black tape, or even a plastic cover... but no, green-vomit paint will be. The partial solution when the cracks spread out too much, is to paint it back with a black sharpie the borders above the bevel and the inner snake pattern. Hopefully, this will make a little less horrible the final product. In any case, the final outcome will be camouflaged by the light, making this a little more hopeful... unless you get to look at it at 1 feet away (Same kind of Death was encountered at front logo) The next step will be attaching the light strips so most part of the logo gets covered. All this, aligned the most centered you can, in order to avoid light diffusion problems or unexpected shadows. Keep in mind the screw holes, and the subtle elevation that the cover has on that side of the plastic (inevitable if you want that the lights be at center respect to the logo). I even had to peel off the inner sides of the screws holes so the lights fits in properly. (Daisy-chain in a way that the cables don't make too much bump) Find the most suitable path for the cables to get out of the enclosure, in a way that they don't cause congestion and generate problems when closing the cover. Help you out by using some tape that sticks the stripes and cables to the desired position. Zip ties here won't help, since the inner space of the enclosure won't let you use them... (also, they won't help you on fix the movement. Maybe a glue gun?) The Front Logo Now, regarding the front logo: obviously it's on the front panel, and the enclosure is behind the acoustical absorption foam. This foam, of course, it's glued to the panel. Not that it's impossible to remove, but it does get difficult when the glue tears apart with the foam included. (Go easy on the foam, use your fingers by lifting it enough so the cutter goes smoothly) Make your way until the front logo panel it's at hand. Then, use the same technique used on side logo by keeping in mind the small increment on size (you'll need 5 stripes instead of 3 for full cover). (Once again, daisy-chain several stripes to cover almost every corner of the logo) When you get the stripes presented and glued/fixed/taped/whatever on position, go backwards and re-glue the foam. (Make sure you cover nicely the surface of the foam) The final step with this cover will be to glue a stripe along the mesh. I separated a couple of cm from the edge so that the light can get inside the case (at that height, the fan's stand won't cast a shadow from the lights) (Choose the side where the cables will go down so that matches with your hub location... or at least, the most shorter path) REMEMBER: the front and top panel needs additional cable length in order to give you the ability to move them and rearrange the front/top fans if needed. Except if you use a 4 pin connector between the case and the panel, you'll need approx. 20/30 cm of "loose" cable. (when closed, this cable length goes inside without zip ties). 20160119_175242000_iOS.MOV The logo won't be perfect, but at distance it's acceptable. Top Panel Just as the front panel, glue a stripe along the mesh a couple of cm of the edge, and leave enough cable for later management. (Nope, no picture of top panel... but take a look at my gorgeous cat!) Under Motherboard First step is obvious: take note of the size of your motherboard and cut the stripes accordingly. In my case, an ATX form factor takes about 2 by 4 stripes and 1 by 5. Take a look again of where are you going to connect the cables, and daisy-chain the stripes respecting that layout. The inner frame from the standoff screws gives you the path for the stripes. In this case, I found that for an inner glow that stands out without pumping out too much bright, I should follow the standoffs for the mobo, following the inner frame. At that instance, the light will come out as decoration and not so much as illumination. 20160125_174627000_iOS.MOV More or less, the MOBO light effect. Backplate light You'll need to remove the leds stands that are on the backplate, so that you can stick a single stripe onto it. The only precaution here will be that the width of that plate makes it very difficult to manage the cables to go smoothly and won't let you work comfortably. Once again, take note of the insulation of the tips of the stripes! Check the image above, I even had to cut one side of the stripe contacts so that fits in the plate. This won't affect the RBG leds since the cut it's at the end of the copper contact, and wont' brake any circuits paths. For the cable management, you may find that the narrow opening between the plate's folds won't be enough, but with patience and fitting one cable at a time, you'll make them bend over it. The On/Off light switch Originally, this case has a global on/off switch for ALL the lights on the case, but since the RGB controller can be turned off by the remote, I thought in using the switch for a A/B light configuration. The light switch has two modes for operation, not just an "on/off" capability. Again, since you have previously invested an amount of time to think the lights and circuits of lights on the case (recall the BEFORE ANYTHING part of this post), at this point you should have an A circuit and a B circuit. What I've done is give at the A circuit an "always on" state (no matter the switch position, as long as the RGB controller it's ON, the lights will be ON), and give at the B circuit a "conditional state" that depends on the switch (the lights will only turn ON if both the RGB controller and the switch are ON). What this allows me to do, is that if I feel like I don't want too much bright from the lights or just WHATEVER, I can simply switch it off and be happy In order to do this, you'll need a tester to figure out which pins close, which ones open, and where are the common ones. For this model, the pinout for the switch is as follows: The switch allows you to command two states and two circuits. So 2 combinations can be made by the "on/off" capability. In my configuration, I only use one side of the switch (and only the "on" state). So when I turn it ON, all the lights pop up, but OFF will leave the logos and under MOBO circuit. In other words, the "common" pin goes to the +12V on the led strip and the "on" pin goes to the +12V from the PSU. Final lap! You've come a long way down, and now it's time to put all the pieces together. If you done this in a orderly fashion, all the cable management will be neat and tidy, and all the led cables will be concentrated on the "fan hub", leaving the 4th pin (the +12V) all around the hub. The next step will be to "grab" the +12V rail from a molex connector. Remember this pinout to identify it (no worries if you fail and connect it on the +5V like I did... it just won't light up and you then will realize it ). When done, you'll be finally over with all the soldering, zipping, taping and blah and, cable more or less, end up with something like this: Final outcome (opposite to window-side) Nope, nothing to describe here... just showing off (Window-side) Only thing to take note here is the IR receiver from the RGB controller. Since the length of the cable is quite short, you'll need to secure this little box to the bottom panel, and use the hole for the bottom lights to slide in the receiver. Since the receiver it's quite directional, you'll need to slide it out just enough for it to be seen at sight. Chroma, completed! Congratulations! Now you have a custom made RGB controlled case! You can also buy an RGB controlled keyboard and mouse to complete the scheme, and even RGB light bulbs, and since you are onto rainbows, AN UNICORN! But, whatever the choice you made, now you can set your lighting scheme according to your mood! Enjoy, and remember: maybe one day this will be an official product and sold by hundreds of dollars more! Now, some photos of the case! Yeah!!! Purple theme Orange (again: damn cellphone cameras) And even the Razer's Acid Green And full bright power from white combination. 20160212_005256000_iOS.MOV Video Show!
  13. Hi im. Getting the razer blade stealth 4k and i would like to know the battery life of it thanks jack
  14. As the title suggests. I game on both pc and console but only chat through teamspeak, skype etc. So i thought the Astro a40tr would be perfect. However i noticed that the razer man o war was reduced to just £99.99. So i dont know which to get, the better deal or better suited for my needs??? D: I was unsure on simultaneous ps4 and pc use on the Man o War Thanks, Matthew
  15. As the title says. It doesn't show up in there, but the mouse works. It does recognize my razer lycosa keyboard though. Also, I tried uninstalling the program to re-install, but it gave me an error that you can see in the screenshot below. I also tried using safe mode, but I get the same error. The mouse works fine, but I can't edit macros and button keybinds without the software. I'm using windows 10 64 bit.
  16. Hello, first of all i have a razer blackwidow the first version no light no rgb no anything just the little logo on the bottom is lit in blue, btw the problem here is that the D key doesn't work when i turn the pc, comeback from sleep, etc. i have to spam the key like 20 times and then it start to work, also i noticed some doble presses on this key as well on the space bar and some other keys, i triedd blowing some compressed air to remove dust from the switches and also clean the keyboard but the problem persist. In the mouse part i used tho have an asus GX850 and i loved it but the switches broke from the pcb so its mostly dead, i have some sort of a combination of a finger tip grip with a claw grip, and i wanted a comfy mouse that have support for the ring and pinky fingers (yup like a palm grip i know my grip its strange) i saw in a video the Func MS3 revision 2 mouse and i really love the design that's exactly what i'm looking for but is discontinued, so i want and alternative with a really good sensor with no acceleration, and the thumb buttons, also i play with an 5500 dpi so take that in mind and my budget is $90. (My english is not perfect i know)
  17. Hey guys just looking in some opinions I'm trying to decide between both laptops. No pics of the blade psoted assuming that everyone is familiar with that product. The msi msi will cost me $2500 AUD and the blade $2700 AUD Thanks everyone
  18. i saw the new razer blade pro v2 yesterday, and i love it and wanna buy it from amazon, i also have the money to buy it ($4000). I saw reviews of razer blade pro on youtube,CNET,techradar,etc. But when i read posts about the issues the buyers are experience like- screen had vertical columns of discoloration,SD card reader didn’t work,mouses settings (i.e. speed) would get messed up every time the computer came out of sleep or got restarted (using a Razer Mamba),Sometimes computer doesn’t go to sleep properly (it will stay awake even though it’s configured to sleep after 15 mins on non-use) or it wakes up when don’t want it to,Sometimes the computer’s battery will show as 99% with a “plugged in, not charging” status. It did this after the new Windows 10 install,Keyboard doesn’t always go to sleep with screen, defaults to wrong setting on start up & the lid logo sometimes doesn’t turn off,There are many errors in the Event Viewer system logs. And i also heard that razer's quality control is very poor. many buyers are complaining about the razer blade pro. some buyers got defective razer blade pro again and again even after replacement.but still i want to buy razer blade pro because some unique features like build quality and screen.And if i want to buy this laptop i have to use amazon (international shipping),because razer did not ship in my country. so, if i buy and i got a defective product it will be harder for me to replace it. i have also selected some different laptops with gtx 1080 gpu but they don't have unique features as razer blade pro so, please suggest that should i buy it or not, or select a different product like asus g701, dell xps 15, razer blade 14,etc please suggest me what do i do now??
  19. So, I just want to start off by saying that I have considered buying the new macbook with touchbar. But after looking around at other options I really would want something with better specs. I have landed on the newest razer blade 14" with the updated i7-7700HQ . I would prefer to stay under 3500 €. I need this laptop to be portable and have good enough specs for programming/IT work. It wouldn't if it could handle some light gaming but it doesn't have to be a "gaming" laptop. Primarily thin, light, portable and good specs.
  20. Title says it all, which one is better, the GS63VR 6RF Stealth Pro or the Razer Blade 14 v2? Im looking to buy one of these asap, please feel free to leave ur opinions! Thanks in advance for any help!
  21. looks like the g900 is not the best anymore
  22. what do you think razer has in store for max q i would want a 14 inch blade with a 1080 i would buy that any day and if they could make it work some how with a gpu in the core as well that would be amazing but that is totaly not going to happen i think razer can do it if asus can make a 1080 laptop that small then the only thing holding razer back would be cooling but I think they would be able to come up with something smart
  23. Found this giveaway for a razer blade that was using your thumbnail: They obviously didn't read the skin...
  24. The ultimate showdown between the Razer Core and the Alienware Graphics Amplifier, but which external GPU solution will come out on top? Buy the Graphics Amplifier on Amazon: http://geni.us/aa1C Buy on Newegg: http://geni.us/BWU9v
  25. Buy Razer Blade Pro on Amazon: http://geni.us/Lw6zP4b Buy GeChic Monitor on Amazon: http://geni.us/nBuK Did you think that Razer's Project Valerie demo at CES was awesome? Then this is the DIY project for you...