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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  1. Can't seem to get 3200hz working on D.O.C.P, it will only go as far as 2666hz with Dram at 1.35v I have tried 1.5v Dram as well as 1.65v, nothing seems to work It would just reboot 3 times and shows "Overclock fail". Have EVGA SuperSC 3200hz 2x8gb DDR4 ram Going to switch to Ryzen 5 1600 soon, will that help? Build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/HNELITE/saved/4W8GXL
  2. Welcome to my memory overclocking guide. Before we get started, there are a few things I want to get out of the way, along with a few people to thank. First of all, thank you to @SteveGrabowski0 for being my partner in crime in this sub-forum, spreading the word about memory and it's impact on gaming performance. I would also like to thank @done12many2 for reigniting my passion for memory overclocking. Seeing you take to it so quickly, gave me hope that I could improve upon what I already had, and I did. Lastly, I would like to thank a friend who is not a part of this forum, but he's the man that got me into computers in the first place. He was also the one to teach me every timing in explicit details. Thanks Matt, a man could never ask for a better OCD stricken, unrealistically high standards friend. Now, for the disclaimer: Memory overclocking will drive you insane. There is no one-stop overclock that will work for all boards, CPU's, etc. When I say it's trial and error, I mean it. You will either hate it, and never do it again, or become so addicted to it that it consumes your free time. Normally with a disclaimer; someone would say "this is your own doing, I am not liable for damage, bla bla bla" but let's face it, the only way you will damage your system with memory overclocking, is if you completely abandon all common sense. Stay within the voltages I put in this guide, and you will be perfectly fine. Now... let's get this show on the road. Part 1: Intel For this first part, we will be focusing on Intel boards and CPU's, since this is where I have the most expertise. Most of the timings we will be touching, are available on both DDR3 and DDR4, so a lot of this knowledge is interchangeable. Let's start with terminology: Voltages: Below, are a list of voltages we will use when overclocking our memory to improve stability. I'll include both DDR3 and DDR4 voltages, along with Intel's "recommended max" voltages for the users that wish to have peace of mind. These voltages are: vDIMM (Sometimes called VDDQ or DRAM Voltage, supplied from the board to the memory itself) VCCIO (Voltage for the path going into and out of the IMC) VCCSA (Sometimes called System Agent Voltage, it's your IMC and PCIe subdomain voltage) For DDR3, typical voltages are 1.35v (DDR3L), 1.5v (JEDEC DDR3), and 1.65v (OC'd DDR3). Intel's max recommended voltage for DDR3 on Sandy/Ivy/Haswell, is 1.5v +5%, which is 1.575v. For DDR4, typical voltages are 1.2v (JEDEC DDR4), and 1.35v (OC'd DDR4). Intel's max recommended voltage for Skylake's DDR4 half of it's IMC is 1.2v + 5%, which is 1.26v. For the DDR3 half of Skylake's IMC, it's 1.35v + 5% which is 1.4175v. Sources to these claims (and why I think they are bogus) can be found here: For VCCIO/VCCSA, I do not recommend exceeding a value of 1.25v for each. I personally use a value of 1.14v for VCCIO, and 1.15v for VCCSA. Going beyond 1.25v is silly, and may potentially damage your IMC or traces on your board. Primary Timings: These are timings that are normally listed on every sales page of your ram. They include: CAS Latency (tCL) RAS to CAS delay (tRCD) Row Precharge Time (tRP) RAS Active Time (tRAS) Command Rate (CR) (Note: Command Rate is not a timing, but it's listed under Primary Timings, so I included it here) They are also commonly available to tinker on most chipsets, and are often made available for tuning in software like XTU. Secondary Timings: These are timings that are seldom ever listed anywhere on a marketing page, but you can find them within your BIOS on some chipsets. They include: Write Recovery Time (tWR) Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC) RAS to RAS Delay Long (tRDD_L) RAS to RAS Delay Short (tRDD_S) Write to Read Delay Long (tWTR_L) Write to Read Delay Short (tWTR_S) Read to Precharge (tRTP) Four Active Window (tFAW) CAS Write Latency (tCWL) Most of these timings are inaccessible on lower-end chipsets and more restrictive BIOS's. Very rarely will you have access to them on lower-end configurations, and even XTU lacks control over most of these timings. Tertiary Timings: These are timings that are NEVER listed anywhere on a marketing page, and are different per motherboard/CPU IMC/ ram IC. They are generated by your IMC, after your board probes it repeatedly looking for a stable configuration. Some of you might have noticed your PC restarting a few times when installing new memory kits. These timings are often the cause of that, as they need special training in order for you to post properly. They include: tREFI tCKE tRDRD (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tRDWR (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tWRRD (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) tWRWR (_SG, _DG, _DD, _DR) Very specific boards and chipsets will allow modification of these timings. They are by far one of the most important groups of timings you can adjust, and are directly involved in improving your bandwidth efficiency. More on that later. Round Trip Latency: Since these settings are not timings, and are not always listed under tertiary timings, I feel they need their own section, as they are probably the single most important settings you can adjust to see the biggest impact on performance. They include two settings: RTL (the title of this section should give you hints as to what this is) IO-L As the title of this section hints at, Round Trip Latency is directly involved in how long it takes your ram to complete it's total cycles. The tighter this value is, the lower your overall latency is. Sounds great, right? Well, the problem is: literally every timing is associated with this setting, and tightening other settings, makes it harder to tighten this. It's also annoying to adjust, as you cannot adjust it without also adjusting IO-L settings (the two must be adjusted as a pair) and there is no secret formula for doing so. All I can tell you is: your RTL channels cannot be more than 1 apart in either direction. Example: If RTL of Channel A is 50, RTL of Channel B can be 51 or 49. It cannot be 52 or 48, as this will result in extremely terrible performance, or worse, system instability. Now that we have the timing terminology out of the way, let's first discuss stability testing. After all, you cannot overclock until you know how to validate that overclock. Stress Testing (Validating Stability) This part is always met with some sort of controversy, as everyone has their own way of doing things. That being said, I too have my own way, and it's the only way I've ever done it, so I'll have to stick by what I know. When making adjustments in your BIOS for timings or frequency, I always recommend running a full pass of memtest86. Memtest86 is not a stress test, but it will test things that can potentially show your IMC not liking your current memory configuration. I use it as a precursor to actual memory stress testing, as it helps prevent instant crashing in Windows due to IMC outright hating your memory configuration. We use memtest86 in two phases: Phase 1: Full Pass Phase 2: IMC Smackdown. Phase 1 is pretty self explanatory. It's running memtest86, using all 13 tests. Phase 2 is where the fun begins, as we disable all tests excluding test 6, and run it several times. I personally do 10 runs of test 6, but feel free to do however many you wish to do. It will test different rows and addresses with each subsequent test, so the more you run it, the better your chances are for finding IMC/RAM incompatibility. This phase is critical when making adjustments to tertiary timings, as this test will find issues quicker than any other. When using Memtest86, make sure you hit C, and select "All Cores: Parallel". This will make the test go much quicker. Believe me, you will want to save as much time as you can, as memory overclocking takes a long time to validate 100% stability. Next, we have my tool of choice for basically all forms of stress testing, Prime95. I know, some of you are scared when you see this come up. In fact, pretty sure I felt someone's heartbeat increase somewhere in the world due to the sheer mention of it. Relax. For this purpose, Prime95 is going to be 100% harmless. In fact, we won't be using an FFT size small enough for it to get hot, so you should be fine. If you are absolutely terrified, feel free to use the non-AVX version, as it shouldn't matter for ram stability (unless you are stress testing specific AVX-based tertiary timings, such as tRDWR_DD/DR, but more on that later. For now, let's focus on how to stress it. Open up Prime95 of your choice (I am currently using 28.10 as of this guide) and input the following settings: Now, for "Memory To Use", make sure you enter your own value. I highly recommend 75% of your total capacity. If you have say, 16GB, then your capacity = 16 x 1024 - 25% = 12288MB. For 8GB, that value would be 6144MB. Since I have 32GB, I'll be using 24576 to stress test. Once this starts, let it run for several hours. I personally let mine run for about 8-12 hours, depending on how I feel and how much I've tinkered from my last stable profile, but I do not recommend running for less than 8 hours. I know it's tempting to cut corners, but memory instability is not a game you want to play. It can seriously corrupt your windows installation, and require a fresh install. Take this part seriously. As for why we use the settings above, allow me to explain. 512k-1024k is hard on the IMC and IO lanes. 2048k+ is hard on your ram. By setting the range at 512-4096, we not only stress the IMC and IO Lanes, we also stress the memory itself. Be warned: 1344k and 2688k are also included in this range, and are the hardest stress on vCore. If your CPU is unstable by any means, it will fail this, and will likely hold you back on memory overclocking. Always make sure your CPU is 100% stable before attempting memory overclocking. The less variables involved, the better. For those of you with Haswell, and worried about that old myth of Prime95 killing CPU's, understand this. This range lacks 448k, which was the hardest FFT to test on FIVR. You should be fine here. Overclocking Memory (Intel Platforms) Precautions: The very first thing I advise you do, is locate your CLEAR_CMOS button on your motherboard (if you have one) or put your system in a location that adjusting your CMOS jumpers/battery is easily accessible. You are certainly going to be using them, no exceptions. Next be sure to have your power supply's power cable near you. Sometimes, removing this and holding down the power button for 60 seconds, results in enough of a clear to allow you to get back into BIOS without completely resetting everything. Lastly, save all of your "pseudostable" profiles, so that you can continue to adjust them for better stability without starting over. Overclocking Time!: Now that we have the precautions out of the way, it's time to start tinkering. I recommend focusing on Frequency first, while keeping your primary timings the same. I personally dial in a vDIMM of 1.35v, and then I start increasing my memory frequency one memory strap at a time. If I was at 3000 C15, I would try 3200 C15, then 3333 C15, 3466 C15, and so on. When you reach a point to where it no longer posts, you have 3 options. Option 1: Throw more voltage at it. Option 2: Loosen your primary timings. Option 3: settle for last bootable configuration. I advise trying option 1 first, as it might only take a little bit more vDIMM to make it stable. For example: My 3600 C14 profile is unstable at 1.35v, but stable at 1.39v. Since it's still under the "1.4175v" that Intel suggested for the DDR3 half of the IMC, I just pretend the DDR4 half of my IMC will tolerate it just as well. As I've ranted about before, you won't be killing an IMC with vDIMM. Now, your VRM components near your ram on the motherboard, that's a different story entirely. Use common sense, and try to avoid going over 1.45v for 24/7 vDIMM and you should be fine. Some 4266 kits even use a value of 1.4v on their XMP's, and nobody has killed a board or CPU with those yet. Option 2 is what we call "compromising". You have to be careful when making compromises on timings for speed. The end must justify the means. If you gain a slight amount of bandwidth, but lose on latency at all, it's a bad trade. Memory is already so ridiculously fast in regards to bandwidth, that latency should ALWAYS come first in your mind. That being said, frequency can be just as good for latency as it is with bandwidth. It just takes a little balance. If you increase frequency while keeping timings the same, latency improves. If you loosen latency while increasing bandwidth, one of two things can happen. #1: you have faster bandwidth, and latency remains the same as a result. This is a good trade with no negative side effects, so I tend to allow this. #2: you gain bandwidth, but latency suffers. This is a terrible trade, and should never be made. Go back to your last configuration, and work on making that stable instead. When making minor tweaks, I recommend using software like Aida64's memory bandwidth test (cachemem test) to see your gains in performance. Yes, I know it sucks using paid software, but it seriously helps with knowing whether or not your timings are making a positive or negative impact in performance. While I do intend to provide the list of timings that benefit performance regardless of your memory IC's, you must understand that certain IC's have specific tertiary timings that they benefit from being loose, or tight. I cannot tell you a Samsung timing configuration, that will also boost your Hynix timing configuration, because they both enjoy completely different values. You can also have two different Samsung IC's (B Die, D Die, etc) that also prefer different values. The best course of action in this scenario, is trial and error. Now that we've gotten frequency and primary timings taken care of, it's time for secondary timings. While you will see small gains from most of these timings, I want to focus on one very important secondary timing. tRFC. You see, memory is a matrix of billions of capacitors that need to be recharged. You have tRFC, a secondary timing, that works alongside tREFI, a tertiary timing. Every <tREFI>, they are recharged in order, for <tRFC> amount of time. Simply put: tRFC is the mount of time your ram can do nothing, while being recharged. tREFI = the amount of time your ram can do things, before needing recharged. Both are very important, and have significant impact on your latency. tRFC works best as low as you can get it, and tREFI functions best as high as you can get it. tRFC, in my testing, is best left at 270, as it's the easiest value to keep stable, while having the best gains in performance. tREFI on the other hand, can go as high as 65535 and not really matter, but can potentially lead to corruption if your motherboard's quality is lackluster. The warmer your DIMMS, the more often they need recharged. If mobo is bad, it can't recharge high enough to meet the required interval. Basically, if motherboard is bad, stick to the JEDEC standard of 7.8usec refresh interval. If your ram is 3000mhz, the formula is 1500 x 7.8 = 11700. If your ram is 3600mhz, the formula would be 1800 x 7.8 = 14040 tREFI. There are other formula's for your secondary timings worth following, such as: tFAW = tRRD x 4. The others, they tend to take trial and error. Gain's can be small, or big, depending on whether or not you are using DDR3 or DDR4. I can say that with DDR4, the gains are not as massive as touching tertiary timings. Speaking of which... Tertiary timings: Depending on your level of masochism, this will be the part you love the most, or absolutely dread. There is no in-between. As you saw above during the terminology half, tertiary timings tend to have a few suffixes after their name. These are SG, DG, DD, and DR. I'll be frank here. I have no idea what SG or DG means, I just know that they severely impact your bandwidth, no matter what kind of memory you use. As for DD, I believe these are related to 2DPC (DIMMS Per Channel) and only matter if you have 2 DIMMS per channel (ITX users rejoice, less complication) while DR matters when using multi-rank kits. It's easier to associate DR with "Dual Rank". If you have a single rank kit, touching _DR timings does literally nothing. No positive or negative, and no instability issues either. I recommend taking these one at a time, or at the very least, one group at a time. Focus on tRDRD (and all of it's suffixes), followed by tRDWR, and so on. Fun fact about tRDWR: these timings directly impact AVX. The tighter they are, the hotter AVX is. The looser they are, the cooler AVX is. Those of you that fear AVX, you might be able to use this to your advantage, and make those stress tests easier on yourself. I promise not to judge you. Once you've finally settled on your tertiary timings, and have gone through countless hours of stress tests, it's time for the bane of my existence. RTL/IO-L's. I honestly cannot give you any better advice, other than "You gotta feel it". There is no magical value that I can tell you to dial in, and have it work. You can ask me until you are blue in the face, and I simply will not be able to help you. RTL has one very specific value it likes, and a few others that it "tolerates", and that's it. Either it works, trains poorly, or doesn't work at all. Now, with DDR4, we do have a trick up our sleeves to at least prevent it from training poorly. It's a very simple formula for a specific setting, called RTL Init. This formula is: IO-L + IO-L Offset + CL (x2) + 10. Let's say your IO-L is 4, and your offset is 21. You have a CAS Latency of 14. The formula would be: 4 + 21 + 14 (x2) + 10 = 63. Once you input 63 in the RTL Init setting, your IMC will no longer train RTL's beyond it's current threshold. This is great, as it at least prevents performance from getting worse. However, this is only a band-aid. You should still strive to find optimal settings for RTL/IO-L. That being said, do not beat yourself up dwelling on this. If you've gained significant strides in all other aspects of your ram, then feel proud of what you've accomplished. It's still worlds beyond what XMP can offer you, and you've gotten one step closer to mastering one of the most difficult "overclocking disciplines" there is. For those of you that expected more than this, I am sorry. I am still learning myself, and I do not feel that I understand every aspect yet, so bare with me as I continue to learn and update this "guide" with what I discover in the future. If I forgot to tag anyone that was waiting to read this, I apologize, as my mind has been elsewhere and I honestly cannot remember who was waiting to read this. Part 2 (AMD Classic) and Part 3 (AMD Ryzen) will be coming as soon as I get the time. It may take weeks or even months for those to be completed, as my free-time is very scarce at the moment. As for why I need two entirely different parts for AMD, It's simple. Ryzens IMC is a complete overhaul over AMD's older architectures. It resembles absolutely nothing if it's former IMC (for better or for worse) and is currently lacking in many features. Simply put: Overclocking Ryzen's memory isn't an easy task, even for veterans. It requires a lot of tricks and luck, far more than any other platform I've encountered. When I get additional time, I'll amend some of this guide to try to make it easier to understand, as well as add my experiences and additional tricks to save time during this process. Good luck everyone, hope it helps.
  3. Need your help, on the AMD's official AM4 Motherboards memory support listing page (june 2017) Corsair CMK8GX4M1A2400C16R is listed but the same ram is not listed on the Asus's ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING motherboard's QVL (May 19 2017). i am positive that it will work but i want to be sure about it.
  4. I am currently building myself a NAS from some spare parts and I was wondering if I could Mix ECC ram with non ECC RAM and could it cause any problems in the long run? So far I put the 4 sticks in the system, it booted into windows 10 which reported 16 GB back and was not showing any signs of errors. In the future I will be using FreeNAS but I need to get the drives first. What i am working with: Kingston 2 x 4gb low profile ddr3: KVR1333D3N9/4GKC Kingston 2 x 4gb ECC ddr3: KVR1333D3E9S/4G gigabyte h77 board: GA-H77M-D3H Intel i5 2400
  5. Does this motherboard have ECC memory support? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157785
  6. Normally people told me that as long both RAM runs at same speed and timing it should word, regardless of the brand. So is it OK if I buy the same exact RAM separately instead of Kits ? Like example buying 2X Corsair Vengeance 8GB CL15 @ 3000mhz individually instead of a Kit ? Some people said that I may risk running in to compatibility problem since the " Version " of the RAM maybe different. I did came across this problem, as for my current PC I'm using 16GB I bought 2X 8GB Kits. The specs are exactly the same, but one of the other RAM kit has a slight different timing. The Version Numbers are different as well. So far I'm it's working well. But now I'm buying RAM for RyZen PC, which it can be rather sensitive when comes to RAM. Do you guys think it be alright if I bought them individually ?? I would buy them in Kits, but sadly our local Distributor / Supplier is rather " stupid " they tend to import more Single Kit rather than Dual Kit not to mention we couldn't even find Quad Kit here
  7. So in a perfect world I would be more patient than I am now, and I would be able to afford the fastest and biggest sticks of ram I could get for my Ryzen 5 1600 build. BUT... unfortunately I don't live in a perfect world, and at this point I feel I need to make a compromise. I am only 4 parts away from completing my build which I could get at the start of next month, but the ram (and potentially PSU) is the only piece that I feel like I have variability based on system needs. My question is simple, for my choice of ram that I can afford now, should I make sure its fast (3000 14/15 cas), or high in quantity (16 GB) but lower speed. I feel I could get a single stick of 8 gb but at good speed now, and then the following month get another stick (obviously same kind) to get myself at 16GB. Or if I should go quantity, could I just go for a 2x8 but at a lower speed and just be fine. Overall I just don't want to have to wait another long month to finally have my rig and start playing when I am close to getting it now. Any help and critique on remaining parts appreciated (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hWGc8K)
  8. Hi Brains trust, I am in the process of planning a new system and I have been looking at how much RAM to get. The main uses for the system is photo and video editing using Photoshop and Premier Pro (and the occasional run of Civ V/VI or Deus Ex (HR and MD). I recall seeing a one of Linus' videos were it seemed to indicate that there was little benefit of having more than 32GB of RAM for these programs. Now the boards that I am looking at will support upto 64GB or 128GB of RAM and I was orignially planning on maxing out which ever board I got. But since seeing the video I am thinking that 32 should be enough. Not long after I saw another video about a RAM disk and that got me thinking of if there would be any benefit to going the full 64 or 128GB of RAM, using 32 as RAM and then using the rest as the scratch disks for Photoshop and Premier. So the quesions are; Would running 32GB of RAM with a 32GB (or more) Scratch RAMDisk be of any benefit? Would I be best just sticking with the 32GB since that seems to be the sweet spot for performance in the Adobe suite? Or should I just max out the board and just leave it as RAM?
  9. Hello, I'm looking for a little help. I don't know too much about computers outside basic knowledge of the parts and what all they do. I built my computer after days of researching how the different parts of computers work and watching countless hours of YouTube videos. I actually had a YouTube video of how to put a PC together open on my phone while I built what I'm using right now.To my surprise, it works great, and runs beautifully. However, motherboards were the one thing I didn't look too much into. I assumed it just had to be one "that works." Although the one I have works, it lacks enough SATA ports and doesn't run the CPU I wanted to upgrade to, so I plan on upgrading my motherboard, along with the CPU, and RAM. I have just one issue: I know I can disassemble the computer parts and reinstall a new motherboard, no problem. My worry is: what will that do to all my software? Do I need to wipe off all the data on my PC? Do I need to uninstall all the drivers? If so, how can I figure out if I've removed everything? Will I be able to reinstall Windows 10 on my new computer? Or will I need to buy a whole new copy? I've searched and searched for videos on the matter, but to no avail. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
  10. Hello everyone, I am new to this site but have been watching Linus' channel for years. My question is: Does anyone know of reputable DDR 4 companies/products that are not that "flashy". I am building a $1000 system but do not really need flashy Corsair vengeance or g skill or anything like that. Pretty much I just want stripped down RAM (just green sticks) that isn't garbage. Thanks for all the help!
  11. Hey there, folks. I just installed the latest BIOS version (version 0902) for my Asus Prime B350 Plus containing what looks to be new microcode, AGESA 1.0.0.6b. I'm running an R5-1600X at 4.0 GHz with 1.337v and high LLC for its overclock. My RAM is G.Skill Ripjaws V rated for 3200 MHz (F4-3200C16D-16GVKB), but I can only get it stable at 3066 MHz. It will POST at 3200, but it is horrendously unstable. My desktop background might become corrupted, programs fail to load, random BSOD's, and such start happening shortly after getting to the desktop. I've tried using the built in DOCP settings for 3200 and manually putting in my timings and DRAM voltage from the RAM's label, all to no avail. SOC voltage is 1.1v, which is the mobo's auto-voltage when overclocking memory. Timings and voltage are 16-18-18-18-38 and 1.35v. Are there any other things I can try to get this stable at 3200 MHz that aren't dangerous? I'm getting pretty tired of being stuck 134 MHz from the speed I paid for, for all these months.
  12. I posted this before but since being advised to turn off the paging file i have and now i just get my pc crashing (going black turning straight off and restarting again) This will happen just as consistantly as the paging file error. Im also recieving additional weird behaviour such as when playing games such as Rainbow Six Siege i will get my CPU running at 100% and the game will stutter and my mouse will lag extremely and audio in discord will stutter until i get my pc crashing again. I used to be able to run siege with the same settings just fine, ive even turned them down. i also get near constant crashes CTD in PUBG which is a large open world game so my thoughts are maybe it could be ram now, but im split between it being that and my hard drive. One last fault is that i have red LEDs on my case and sometimes at the same time as the cpu hitting 100% they flicker and even get darker as if they are recieving less power. I have opened up my pc removed and put the ram back in place and checked all connections which seems to be fine. I have also run malware bytes which found a few Potentially Unwanted Programs but nothing serious. and i have also changed from bit defender to AVG. im really struggling here if anyone could help this would be amazing! I was experiencing multiple different BSOD errors. they seemed to happen almost daily, generally when installing, downloading, or playing memory intensive games. though could go day to day without one occuring and other days they happen multiple times. I have run MEMtest 15 times and it came back clean, i have also checked my hardrive for errors with disk check, again clean. hard disk sentinel also came back clean with 100% health. I cant always take a picture of the bsods but some of the ones i remember are: BSOD Paged fault in non paged area (this one is most common) Memory Management (again very common) System service exception (not as often) IRQL_not_less_or_equal (twice) I will post my Specs below: Operating System Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1 CPU Intel Core i5 4690 @ 3.50GHz Haswell 22nm Technology RAM 16.0GB DDR3 Corsair Vengence CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z97P-D3 (SOCKET 0) %1 Chipset Graphics Acer K242HQK (1920x1080@60Hz) Intel HD Graphics 4600 (Gigabyte) 8192MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 390 Series (C.P. Technology) 38 °C CrossFire Disabled Storage 931GB TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 ATA Device (SATA) 35 °C Optical Drives DiscSoft Virtual SCSI CdRom Device ATAPI iHAS124 E ATA Device DiscSoft Virtual SCSI CdRom Device Audio Realtek High Definition Audio In the picture and video below you can see the effects of the flickering very faintly. though sometimes this will happen on a far extreme scale and the lights will even go off 20170919_163331_1.mp4
  13. Pc will ONLY show something on my screen when i have a single ram inserted in the A1 slot. Specs: Ram: CMK26GX4M2B320016R Cpu: Ryzen 5 1600X Motherboard: Asus Prime B350 Plus am4 Gpu: asus dual gtx 1060 6GB Ok, so unless there is just some bios settings causing this issue, my ram and all my 3 other slots has to be broken right? Or do you HAVE to put ram in the A1 slot if u only have one? Thanks for any help EDIT: I built this pc yesterday btw
  14. The ASRock H110 series of motherboards has a weird locking system for RAM, it has clips only in one side. I don't know what to do, can you help me?
  15. Hi! I know that ryzen has some ram issues, just wanna some advice. My planning build includes: 1. Ryzen 1700 2. Asus ROG STRIX X370-F GAMING motherboards 3. G.skill Flare X 32GB (4x8GB) 3200MHz CL14 14-14-14-34 I checked both ram and motherboard, but still don't know neither if its compatible nor if the ram can run full speed at 3200 in this quad channel configuration. Is there better solution for 32GB(due to work issues) ram at 3200MHz and high timing? Thanks! btw, has anyone use ADATA Ram, they said they tested 4X8GB at 3200 run on Ryzen on some motherboard
  16. Ram capacity

    Can i use 2 sticks of ddr 3 ram 8 gb 1600mhz even that it says cpu maximum is 1066mhz
  17. PC BSOD/MANY OTHER ERRORS HELP

    I posted this before but since being advised to turn off the paging file i have and now i just get my pc crashing (going black turning straight off and restarting again) This will happen just as consistantly as the paging file error. Im also recieving additional weird behaviour such as when playing games such as Rainbow Six Siege i will get my CPU running at 100% and the game will stutter and my mouse will lag extremely and audio in discord will stutter until i get my pc crashing again. I used to be able to run siege with the same settings just fine, ive even turned them down. i also get near constant crashes CTD in PUBG which is a large open world game so my thoughts are maybe it could be ram now, but im split between it being that and my hard drive. One last fault is that i have red LEDs on my case and sometimes at the same time as the cpu hitting 100% they flicker and even get darker as if they are recieving less power. I have opened up my pc removed and put the ram back in place and checked all connections which seems to be fine. I have also run malware bytes which found a few Potentially Unwanted Programs but nothing serious. and i have also changed from bit defender to AVG. im really struggling here if anyone could help this would be amazing! I was experiencing multiple different BSOD errors. they seemed to happen almost daily, generally when installing, downloading, or playing memory intensive games. though could go day to day without one occuring and other days they happen multiple times. I have run MEMtest 15 times and it came back clean, i have also checked my hardrive for errors with disk check, again clean. hard disk sentinel also came back clean with 100% health. I cant always take a picture of the bsods but some of the ones i remember are: BSOD Paged fault in non paged area (this one is most common) Memory Management (again very common) System service exception (not as often) IRQL_not_less_or_equal (twice) I will post my Specs below: Operating System Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1 CPU Intel Core i5 4690 @ 3.50GHz Haswell 22nm Technology RAM 16.0GB DDR3 Corsair Vengence CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10 Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. Z97P-D3 (SOCKET 0) %1 Chipset Graphics Acer K242HQK (1920x1080@60Hz) Intel HD Graphics 4600 (Gigabyte) 8192MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 390 Series (C.P. Technology) 38 °C CrossFire Disabled Storage 931GB TOSHIBA DT01ACA100 ATA Device (SATA) 35 °C Optical Drives DiscSoft Virtual SCSI CdRom Device ATAPI iHAS124 E ATA Device DiscSoft Virtual SCSI CdRom Device Audio Realtek High Definition Audio In the picture and video below you can see the effects of the flickering very faintly. though sometimes this will happen on a far extreme scale and the lights will even go off 20170919_163331_1.mp4
  18. Is it possible to make this run at 1866mhz ? Is it worth it ? How much volts do i have to set it at ?
  19. RAM fail

    I finished building my first pc. Everything was okay but when I started it I saw a problem with the ram (I connected the ram as the manual says) The ram in the slot A2 was not on (rgb ram) but the one in the slot B2 was working properly Fixing the ram problem was not a struggle... the problem is that my computer only recognizes only the ram in the slot B2 (it says that it only have 8gb) What do I do?
  20. I don't know what I should buy. CMK8GX4M1A2400C14 or HX426C15FB/8?
  21. The DDR4 real speed

    Well, the performance you get from your RAM varies according to your Speed (mHz) and the Latency (CAS in case). To you know the performance you get, you need to divide the CAS Latency by the Memory Speed (mHz) and multiplicate for 2000 (There is an picture explaining it better). To make things easier, I've made this calculation of all the frequencies of memories through latency, for when you buy your memory, know exactly which brings you more performance. The results are given in nanoseconds, lower is better. Enjoy it. DDR4 mHz by CAS Latency.xlsx
  22. I have an old hp pavilion in my house and would like to turn it into a gaming pc I won't be playing triple eight titles but just some games like paladins planets ide 2 minecraft payday Soo what should I upgrade mainly and is this still worth upgrading also tips for parts are welcome (second hand is good for me) Athlon x2 4200+ 2.2Ghz Gtx 6200 se turbocache 2 gb ram 200 or 400 Mhz 200gb hdd 7200 rpm 300w psu Cooler Master cooler Msi amethyst -m motherboard
  23. Sorry if wrong section, but it looks like the best one for this kind of questions. I'm wondering which part of my PC should I upgrade first, my GPU or my CPU. Current specification: MB: Asus F2A85m-le CPU: AMD A10-5800k overclocked to 4.4GHz with stock cooler GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB, at stock clock speeds RAM: 2x4GB DDR3 at 1200MHz The main purpose of this PC is gaming at 1080p and software development, with focus on better gaming performance (compile times are fast enough for me). I was thinking of upgrading my GPU to a 1050ti or the cheapest 1060 I can find and my CPU to a Ryzen 5 1600 (for those 12 threads), or something in similar price. Replacing the CPU would also mean replacing the MB and RAM, which would mean increased costs. I'm going to replace whichever is bigger bottleneck in games first, the question is, which one is it?
  24. Whats up guys, Im an owner of a Ryzen 5 1600 system (atm stock cooler), using Patriot Viper 4 8gb(2x4GB kit) 3200MHz, inside of a SilentiumPC Aquarius X70T Pure Black Case (should have 175mm height cpu cooler potential https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/aquarius-x70t-pure-black/). Im currently going to buy a CPU Air cooler around 80-90€. I have 3 choices RN: (Also I forgot to tell, my case has full tempered glass side panel so visuals matter)1. Noctua NH-D15 SE AM4- I like this one the most, it has everything except the aesthetics. (Altough I dont consider them being that bad and I can definitely imagine that brown thing sitting in my case)2. Cryorig R1 Ultimate / Universal- both of them are awesome looking, even though they are just a little weaker on the performance side compared to noctua. I dont know if the Universal´s better ram clearance would help me so Im stating both of them here.3. be quiet! Dark Rock PRO 3- I like this one the least of these coolers, but still, it looks very good and still is one of my choices.Alright, so the thing is, I have two problems interconnected together. RAM Clearance and Case Width. In case that my RAMs are too high for noctua, I know I can raise the front fan. Dunno if this can be done with the two others. What I also dont know is if I would be able to fit that raised fan in my case. Thanks for reading through and I will thankfully accept all suggestions etc. Oh and when Zen2 is here, Im gonna get something bigger than just a 65W tdp cpu, so the power will not be wasted, do not worry:)
  25. I need help from someone who actually knows what to buy when shopping for a gaming system in 1080p resolution
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