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Family member is looking for a way to play their CD's. Old radio had its digital panle die out. Works but can't see anything that's playing so everything's guesswork. Annoying. PS2 is starting to give out as CD's stop halfway through songs, incosistently. Living room already has a sound bar, pretty sure it's the sony HT-ZF9 that I can connect the radio/cd to via audio jack. Needs to look pretyy as well. Struggling to find anything that doesn't cost too much. So far only this one but £300 is a joke. Amazon has a lot of "ugly pieces of shit" when I showed the options and anything that might remotely look nice doesn't have audio out, only self contained radio and CD players. Anyone have any suggestions? There's gotta be something good that is 99% of what I linked for £100 at most.

I wanted to buy a new music tower so that it would not be too expensive and not cheap, because the cheaper ones play poorly and that the tower itself would take up little space and the speakers would be big so that there would be good sound but I have 2 old towers, 1 is over 20 years old and is from Philips and 2 is from Uniwersum for 500W, the tower itself weighs about 8kg, and here the new tower with speakers weighs 8kg, so I don't know if it will be good. I heard from many people that the old towers are good, they have a good sound. I have seen such towers in many places and each of them had a good sound. A lot of people now listen to music simply on the phone through headphones using the Spotify application but I don't like it I don't like listening to music through headphones I prefer through speakers. Still a lot of people use JBL wireless speakers, it has a nice sound with bass, but it's not high quality sound like on these towers. So I used 1 Philips tower only for the phone or computer via AUX and 2 towers on it I only listened to the radio because it has better sound despite the fact that 2 speakers were connected to 1 channel. I don't know why but on the same speakers the sound is better on the 2 tower which is older. And I also don't want to buy a receiver and speakers, which together will cost as many such towers. I don't like to listen to music on the run somewhere in public transport, I also don't like to use my phone while driving in a comic book. I prefer to sit down and do something on the computer or watch something than to use this phone all the time, it doesn't excite me like most people.I still listen to the radio more than I choose music myself, so the radio is important to me because I want to buy towers and not computer speakers. I also noticed that every car has good sound, at home I had a car radio, I connected speakers from the tower and the sound was very good. So I was thinking to buy a car radio and car speakers and wooden boxes to mount these speakers on them. What ideas do you have and what do you think about it in general? https://www.mediaexpert.pl/telewizory-i-rtv/hi-fi-audio/amplitunery-i-wzmacniacze-av/amplituner-kina-domowego-onkyo-tx-rn6100b-czarny https://www.mediaexpert.pl/telewizory-i-rtv/hi-fi-audio/wieze-male/wieza-panasonic-sc-pmx92eg-k https://allegrolokalnie.pl/oferta/wieza-philips-mz7-5c https://krakow.lento.pl/wieza-universum-hi-fi-turm-vtc-cd-166,8569410.html

Thank you in advance for your help. I was looking to get a JBL Charge 4 for my dad's boat but he would like to have local radio on it as well. I figured a small radio receiver with a 3.5mm aux would be best but I don't see any options like this and there isn't much info on this type of setup. I understand not many people want local radio anymore. I found this Sony Dual Band FM/AM Analog Portable Battery Radio Home Audio Radio Black (ICF-19) on Amazon and think this would work. What is the best way to add radio to a Bluetooth speaker?

We have 3 PCs in a room over the garage and I suspect a combination of somethings (not just one thing due to inconsistencies isolating variables) is putting out enough Radio Interference to drown out our garage door opener at 315 MHz. Does anyone know of common sources, problems, fixes etc on the PCs themselves to eliminate or reduce the noise? I'm going to line the ceiling of the garage with aluminum foil this weekend in the hope of blocking the RF, unless the computers are somehow turning my house electrical wiring into an antenna and it's going thru the walls . . .

Hello there, I live in South Africa in the middle of nowhere and rely off of wirless radio internet to get any form of outside world connection. I recently switched suppliers for a better line. And they're claiming I have a faulty dish So I have a 30dBm dish, Connecting to a tower of theirs not too far, there was trees in the way but we cleared it up. The signal statistics are as follows Tx/Rx Signal Strength -65/50 dBm (average) Tx/Rx Signal Strength channel 0 -70/50 dBm Tx/Rx Signal Strength channel 1 -60/50 dBm Originally they stated that the signal was too strong, so they slightly detuned my radio so that signal wouldn't bounce back from the tower, slowly the connection has been made better, but im still getting latency spikes with no usage down the line. Or when 6mbps is being using out of 15mbps (max bandwidth) im getting latency spikes of nearly 300-500ms. And on idle there is the occasional spike of 300-500ms. I've been running latency tests and trace routes and all the spikes are within their network, they've tuned and realigned the dish and i've spent alot of money on parts and labor. Now the last they're pushing is saying my Radio is Faulty and may need to be replace. However, im only experiencing the latency spikes during peak times of around 5pm - 11pm, then some jitter from 6am - 5pm. During early morning hours 12am - 6am. There is near to no problems. But they're pushing that my dish/radio is faulty. Are they taking me for a ride? or are they being genuine that even though I have no problems in the morning but alot at night, it could still be my radio?

What's the best way to keep loyal listeners on their evening commute? Frying the circuitry, forcing only your station to be played. On a serious note, a Seattle Radio station, which utilized HD radio, sent a jpeg image but had missed the file extension type. Instead of discarding the received signal Mazda vehicles processed the data corrupting the CMU, forcing the radio to be stuck on the station and to constantly restart. (Onscreen controls broken, no bluetooth and no navigation). Aside from the chip shortage which makes getting a replacement CMU very difficult, there will also be a $1500 cost to replacing it. https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/thanks-to-a-glitch-some-seattle-mazda-drivers-cant-tune-their-radios-away-from-kuow/ It's amazing that such a simple thing was overlooked by Mazda. I'm assuming what happened here was the file arrived, Mazda tried displaying it but since the file was glitched maybe the Mazda overwrote memory (like a buffer overflow) which then caused the permanent damage to the system. I'm actually wondering though if they fully powercycle the CMU unit if that might fix things up. Either way, this doesn't look good on Mazda. I know there will always be glitches and bugs in a system...but charging $1500 to fix a glitch which could happen again seems a rather crazy. Hopefully whatever the underlying issue is, Mazda is able to correct it and issue a patch for it (if their CMU can even be firmware upgraded...hopefully they can). If the system isn't able to be fixed by a patch then anyone who owns a Mazda be weary when tuning into radio stations. It's only a matter of time before another station accidentally triggers the corruption. Goes to show though, as cars become more modern the companies that make them better keep up with common practices (like sanitizing the input from unknown sources) *Edit: Update: Mazda is fixing the issue for people affected by this and eating the cost as under goodwill (Thanks @leadeater)

I have a self mad fm transmitter and as a amateur fm transmitter in the Netherlands my range Legal may be 61 meater or 200 feed. I am looking for a amplifier That can help me by that job. But the only thing is That it must not to pouwer hungry because I run it all of a pouwer bank I have 2 1 in the fm transmitter and than 1 for the amplifier. I don't know my way in the world of amplifiers so I hope That some one can help me it's is not a problem if it is a pcb becas than I will built something around it (I am looking for links to something that can help me)

Just out of curiosity, I'm wondering what the most popular radio station on Forza Horizon 4 is. Vote for your favorite and let's find out! My personal favorite is Hospital.

Hello together, I finally finished my sleeperpc. It took way too long and is really rough, if you look at it closely. I didnt took that many pictures, so you have to imagine a few steps. I started with a old tuberadio, wich was dead. So i started with making place for the computerparts i wanted to put into it. For the parts i used mostly the parts i already had, which are: - RTX 2060 Super - Ryzen 5 3600 - 2x8GB Ram 4200Mhz - B550 Phantom Gaming-Itx/ax Motherboard from ASRock - and a Coolermaster 750W Powersupply I also needed: - a ryzercable - a fanhub - and a few longer cables for the powersupply This is the biggest part, which was pretty dusty, like anything on the inside of the case. It looks pretty Janky with all the cables, tubes and giant condensators. But this was the state of the art in the 1950/60 from with this one is. The traces on the bottom are also not, what we are used to today. But back to the building of the pc. At first i needed to figure out, how to cool the thing. I decided, that i would pull in air through the fabric, which was in front of the speakers and push it out through a hole in the bottom. The fans are mounted on a flat piece of wood and srewed into place. After that i needed to place the components in the case. My goal was, that you cant see anything unusual from the front. I think i got it mostly. For the graphicscard my choices were to put the ports on the side or on the top, because it was way too long, to have the ports in the back. I choose to put the ports on the top, because the top is one of the only flat surfaces on the case, witch would make it way easyer to mount it. So i cut a hole for the card on the top. To fit the card in i also needed to remove the shroud on it. With the graphicscard in place there were only two places for the motherboard. I put it on the left because why not. The cooling on the cpu is bad. I know that. If you got an idea, how the cooler can be rotated, you can comment it. While we are on the part of the cooling. The airflow isnt that great. There are four intake fans, but the cloth is really thick. I thought there wold be more air going through it. The powersupply was mounted on the other side and all was cabled up. To turn it on i wanted to be able to use one of the buttons/levers on the front beacause they have a really great feeling and sound. The problem here was, that they stay in place, till you push an other lever to reset them. So i experimented with an extra circuit to turn it into a pulse. In the end i damaged the mechanism of the levers, so that they dont stay in place and go back as soon as you release them. Now for the finished thing. If you dont look close enough it isnt that bad.

Recently picked up a used Tacoma that has an older software version for its radio. There used to be a 5.20 version that was downloadable off of the Toyota website but it seems they have helpfully removed anything that was older than 2016. If anyone has the Gen 2 radio software .iso file and can provide it I would be really grateful.

At the moment, my internet connection situation is less than desirable; we pay through the roof for home internet metered at 30GB/mo (extra cost for overages) because we have no better options. We have no access to cable or DSL, and satellite is unreliable and way overpriced, even compared to what we have. Since we haven't had contract restrictions for quite a while now, I have been looking for better options. This brings me to my idea for internet over ham radio. I live in a sort of hole in the internet coverage in my area, and many people nearby have unlimited internet and good speeds. First, I would find a friend that lives nearby, has good internet that could accommodate my small household, and would entertain this idea. We would each have to get an amateur radio license, at this point, which has its own costs. I would then proceed to build two radio transceivers (one for each of us), find a way to secure and encode the signal, and connect each to their respective router. Diagram: My computer(s) - My Router ---> Decoder ---> My radio setup ~~~ Their radio setup ---> Encoder ---> Their router ---> ISP I would like to hear everybody's opinions on this idea. Would this be a practical means to a good internet connection? Do you think that the signal would be fast, with a tolerable ping? Are there any flaws in my design, or do you have suggestions to make it better? In my opinion, cost will justify itself if the connection is on par or even a little slower than my current connection, as long as this costs me < $1000.

I have some unusual static combined with a bit of low-level rapid pulsing that is being picked up by my wired speakers. I am next to a lot of wireless signals and cannot get away from them (includes phones and router plus wifi extenders and ect). So, how do I counter this through an insolating type method? Would a ferrit core work? Thank you for your help.

Has any other pokemon go players noticed on the latest Android update that you can no longer listen to Internet radio on tunein radio it just cuts it off, even switching apps hitting play and back to pokemon it still cuts it off. Anyone know a way round it?

First up apologies if this belongs somewhere, else. I got a Strix Soar today, and discovered it has the 'box link' connector on the back. Reading reviews, it seems the hardware is the same (other than a different opamp or 2) on the Soar and Raid Pro, so theoretically the control box should work on both, although I couldn't find anyone who had actually tried. Please correct me if this is wrong. The main difference between the cards as far as I can tell (again please correct me) is that the Raid pro comes with the control box. From what little I have found about the connector, it looks like the control box interfaces with the card via a 2.5mm 4-pole jack. The other 2x 3.5mm jacks appear to be just pass through for headphone and mic/line in connectors. The 2.5mm jack is most likely Vdd,Vcc and I2C or similar. Does anyone have any info about this connector. Pinouts, communication protocol etc. I am looking to make a 2.4Ghz remote to allow me to adjust volume while using the PC to play music while I'm doing other things, and a desktop mounted toggle between headphones and speakers. I may add something to do with RAID mode further down the track. Thanks

So I was telling my mate at work that I wanted to buy a new car radio that has Bluetooth, aux cord etc and he told me he's got a thing that runs out of the cigarette lighter but in your car that more or less emits a radio signal that will take information from your phone, such as music through Bluetooth. Then your car's radio will use the signal it's emitting and you can then listen to music of your phone that way. Sorry for the terrible explanation but hopefully someone can help me find this on Amazon or just the name of the thing I'm going on about. Thanks

My Late dad has this radio branded as "LOWRIDER" ("Virtual Reality Sound Labs", and or "Serious Sound") car radio (model number VRLR260), and i cant seem to find the website, company, or any info on this radio. I need to find the online manual, but i cannot find it anywhere. I REALLY need help with this. Thank you.

Does anyone know how frequency work? I know that there are low, high, and ultra high frequency. I want to know does an ultra high frequency is like a global king of all frequency or each type is of their own kind. I see some product say it has ISO 15693, ISO 18000-3 Mode 1 or EPC Class 1 Gen 2, ISO 18 000-6C. I want to know does ISO mean the class model or something? So for example a like a security detector uses 13.56 MHz but when another frequency of 860-960MHz also trigger it? --(I am trying to get a correct RFID tag, but don't know what frequency can do what.) My goal is to find something like this but under $200 for 200 piece https://www.atlasrfidstore.com/smartrac-block-lite-hf-rfid-paper-tag-nxp-icode-slix/

So I'm trying to get new speakers for my car but I know very little about the topic. I want to buy new speakers but they all say that they have like 300 watts and I dont think my factory radio would be able to handle them. I only know my system has 4ohm speakers. What I want to know is how can I pair a nice new set of speakers with my stock radio. If the speaker wattage is too much for my radio, can I make it work with an amplifier?

I have my own internet radio station I like to enjoy listening to and was looking for a good player that will let the station link I have (or .m3u files) play in the background of windows 10.

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So have been going to thrift stores and finding old broken radios and then gutting them completely if they could not be fixed. Then taking a cheap bluetooth speaker taking the internals out and cutting of the part of the housing where the button for controlling the bluetooth speaker was located with a dremmel. The fitting the guts of the bluetooth speaker inside the old broken and gutted radio, cutting a hole on the back of the radio with a dremmel to fit the plastic part with the controls from the bluetooth speaker then soldering back the wires for the speakers, battery and bluetooth module and getting it all stuck back into the radio with hot glue, epoxy and screws... Have done this 3 times now and have not been able to keep them for my self, as "that kind" of hipsters are basically paying what ever price i set when i am asked if its for sale... Approx. price for parts (in Danish kroner and USD) Broken radio 25 - 75 DKK / 3 - 11 USD Bluetooth speaker 149 DKK / 21USD Time for me to make one of these Time to make one... 1-2 hours Tools used Dremmel Flush-cutters screwdriver set. soldering iron. (solder, flux, ....) Hot glue gun (with glue) So here have the 3 i have made and all ready sold. at a OK price ;) Hope you like them. Currently I am looking for one to make in to a diy google home speaker, but I just have to locate the right model for that idea. Philips D2130 year 1983 Grundig rf310 year 1972 Star Lite RN-7 year 1952 (Really wish i could have fixed this one and had it working with the old tubes but nope all corroded inside from old batteries)

So I have a 2011 infiniti g25 and, for whatever reason, it won't recognize my google pixel 2 (or android in general. just says "check media device") and let me use it to play spotify. Obviously this is super annoying so I'm trying to figure out the best way to make my car use my phone. Also ye i could totally buy one of those bluetooth radio things that plug into the 12V port in the car but I also kind of want to do this as a little project. There were a few things that I was thinking but only one of the options seem feasible. I could make an app that'll make my phone look like an iphone to the car. This is probably the easiest way, besides the bluetooth dongle, to get this to work. I figured I wouldn't need to actually emulate an entire iphone and i could just package the data to look like iphone podcast data because my dad was only able to stream music from pandora by choosing the podcast option on the car radio. hack the radio. assuming the radio has its own OS and i can even change it, i could update it to recognize android stuff. i don't really want to do this because i could possibly permanently mess things up and i don't quite want that. hack the radio, but differently. take out the radio and solder a bluetooth dongle onto the tracks that work the cd player or something. I would have to actually look at the radio to find a good spot to put the thing because i can't find any schematics online which is super annoying but whatever. I want to do this one because it sounds fun but I really don't want to do it because i could easily break my radio. Even if I didn't break my radio, there might be an anti-theft thing on it, so i would have to get past that afterwards. Yeah so obviously none of these ideas are super planned out lmao but I was wondering if anyone had some input or could point me in the right direction so I could possibly figure this stuff out. If anyone knows how the car recognizes apple products, like what data it's reading, that would be very helpful info lol. or if anyone has any experience with newer-ish car radio operating systems, that would also be helpful information. thank you for any help, everybody

I recently got a new vehicle (to me anyways) and got a new radio installed in it. I decided to go with one with Android auto and I can't seem to get it to work completely right. The phone is connected via USB, but also seems to require a Bluetooth connection. Music and the Google maps feature works great, but I can't seem to get call audio or any audio from the Google Assistant. I put together a short video to show what's happening. As you can see in the video, music plays back fine and when I try and use Google assistant it seems like it can hear me but there is no response audio. When I receive phone calls I have the same issue. The person on the other end can hear me but I cannot hear them. Usually I have to disconnect and turn on my speakerphone. The volume for everything is on, for both the phone and radio. Phone: Galaxy s8+ Radio: Pioneer AVH-2440NEX Note: the "Media audio" will only turn on for a second and then turn right back off.

I want to kludge an external antenna to pick up 94.5 FM. Our cabin window’s facing away from the Owen Sound transmitter. What I have on hand (here in the bush)... coaxial cable. ~50 feet. BNC male coupling on one end, make cablevision-type male connector at other end. spools of speaker wire (for Shortwave pickup). duct tape, gorilla tape. rudimentary tools. No soldering iron. I’ll do a google search too; however, I want to see whether my e-community have plans that worked! Thanks in advance, eh.

Firstly, I'm not a networking expert. I'm trying to setup a radio connection between (2) PCs with directional data flow (see diagram). The PCs and radio modules have static IPs Is there a way to utilize an Ethernet switch to direct the flow of data to/from the radio modules? Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks