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Interesting article, seems that half the brands sell copper rads but deliver brass instead https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report?utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialflow&utm_content=tomsguide&utm_source=facebook.com
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Tech Enthusiasts, I recently stumbled upon a deeply concerning report from Igor’s Lab, which conducted an extensive material test on AIO radiators. The findings are alarming: the Barrow Dabel 28b Slim 120mm radiator, among others, was found to contain significant amounts of lead and other substandard materials. This revelation raises serious health and safety concerns for all of us in the PC building community. The report, titled “The big radiator material test: Between promise, reality and the forbidden - Water Cooling tested more in Detail! | Part 1,” delves into the materials used by six well-known manufacturers, revealing discrepancies between what is advertised and the actual content of these radiators. The investigation was prompted by reports of clogged water cooling components and unexplained corrosion, leading to a thorough analysis of the materials used. From the source: "First of all: There is no copper “H90”. An addition of 10% brass (as in the case of Bykski) is NOT copper, but still an alloy, i.e. brass. Brass CuZN10, to be precise. Incidentally, it is interesting that I measured exactly this value. Just like the brass “H62” (correctly CuZn38) of the pre-chambers, where I then (logically) arrive at 38% zinc content, which corresponds to 62% copper content and which can suddenly be called brass again in marketing." What’s perplexing is the lack of coverage this issue has received from tech YouTubers, who are often at the forefront of discussing tech-related concerns. One must wonder, why is there a silence from tech influencers on such a critical matter? Is it a lack of awareness, or are there other factors influencing the discourse? The role of tech influencers is not only to review and recommend products but also to inform and protect their audience from potential hazards. It’s imperative that we question this gap in communication and encourage a dialogue that could safeguard the health of our community. As we seek answers and accountability, let’s ensure that we’re not only consumers but also informed advocates for safety and transparency in the tech industry. I urge you to read the full report from Igor’s Lab and join me in calling for greater coverage and discussion on this pressing issue Sources https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/
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Summary Igor's Lab tested eight popular water cooling radiators and found that the claims made by manufacturers were incorrect. Quotes My thoughts Disappointing to hear about this from at least EK. In EK's case it seems its a marketing choice on how they represent the material. At this time Igor's Lab seems to be assuming this was not on purpose by any of the manufacturers but I am very interested to see how they respond. Sources https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report (quoted source) https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/8/ (actual Report)
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Hi i have a question that might be dumb. But i have the MSI MPG Velox 100R case. It says it supports 3 front 140mm fans but only a 360 front radiator. So if it can have 3 140 fans why can't it have a 420 rad? is this a dumb question? T~T the radiator im wanting is the arctic liquid freezer iii which is 458mm length and the MSI MPG Velox 100R case is 474x231x490mm in size
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Hi all, Im using lian li dynamic evo o11 case Lcd galahad 2 aio. I made push pull but seems screws are too short to attach fans to rad with bracket on top. Can anyone point me what lenght screws I need and link maybe? Location: UK
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I recently bought a Cooler Master MasterCase 5 (not pro) to watercool my HOT components with. I'm getting mixed messages on front radiator support for this case. Can I mount a triple 140(420mm)? or even a triple 120(360mm)? It is very unclear. I'm cooling a GTX 1080 (slight OC) and a 4790k (good OC @ ~ 4.6Ghz). I'm using 1 SSD and 1 HDD with an ATX motherboard and I've already removed the drive and 5.25" bays. The GPU isn't that long, especially once the waterblock is on it. I haven't got my heart set on any reservoirs, either.
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- radiator
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hey guys i need your help with the ram i should choose for my built. the issue is - i already purchased the pop air mini fractal case and the lian li GA2T24B Galahad II Trinity 240 AIO. and because its a low case im afraid the ram will interfere with the radiator... i still checking this issue but if you have any info about it or maybe a suggestions what can i do so i can avoid this problem ty so much. also any low ram sticks will be great. ty so much. https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/pop/pop-mini-air/ https://lian-li.com/product/galahad-ii-trinity/ also the motherboard i also purchased. https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b760m-plus/ ty for your help
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- fractal design
- pop air mini
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i just want to know from people that actually have this case what the exact measurment of the rad "pit" are. does anyone manage to fit a 420 rad especially a 420 aio rad (capellix or artic) inside it ? i just want to save a few bucks by going p6 instead of the masdive p8
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Hello people, I have a problem with my radiator screwholes.. I have a lian li Galahad 360 aio, but the screw holes are not holding up anymore. I wanted to try and buy 1mm larger screws but I’m afraid to hit the parts of the radiator where the fluid comes tru. Since this AIO.. well, it’s pretty good, it would be a shame to change it, it’s working flawlessly still. Do you have a solution that can help me out?
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Hello guys, does anyone know if the NZXT H9 Elite case supports the NZXT Kraken X63 RGB 280mm? I want to use my precious AIO and mount it on the top of the case but I'm not sure if the case supports that size. Thanks in advance!
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Hi all! Just got the rads for my second ever water cooled build, 3x Hardware Labs Nemesis 420 GTXs, and was surprised to see a bunch of reddish/orange stuff down the ports. I'm aware that all rads need to be flushed to remove flux and other manufacturing residue, but this seems a bit weird? It's been a few years since my last build, but I don't recall the rads I used then (EK CoolStream XE 360, Hardware Labs Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW) looking so dirty. The reddish/orange rust/corrosion looking stuff in particular is concerning to me. In each rad one of the ports (the more recessed one) looks a lot worse, with much more orange stuff. The other one has some orange, but mostly just silver drops that I assume are flux or some other manufacturing gunk. I see a lot of posts elsewhere answering similar questions saying it's normal, but the reasoning fluctuates wildly. Most say it's just normal copper oxidation but then proceed to say that would be green where this looks more like iron rust (red/orange). I guess it starts reddish and changes to green over time? I got all 3 rads brand new from the same vendor and they all look more or less the same. The boxes were pretty dusty like they've sat around a long time. One other strange thing was the specs on the back of the box had one line covered up with black tape. I took the tape off and saw the covered up line says "Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish", which is what they list on the HWLabs site. The rads do not have the same textured finish shown on the HWLabs site. It's a very smooth, matte black. That's not really an issue for me, but I do find it odd and it makes me wonder if these are old inventory or something? TL:DR; Do these look like normal ports for brand new, unflushed rads? PS: Sorry that the focus is completely off. Phone will not focus inside the port with enough distance to shine light in so you can actually make out what's in there.
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Hello. Just had a quick question about AIO radiators. I have a 120mm AIO cooler and I was just wondering how plausible it may be to replace the 120mm radiator to a 240mm or larger later on. I understand that these AIO aren't meant to be taken apart and such, but has anyone ever tried to do so? Thank you
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Hello! I just upgraded my cpu from a 3700x to a 3900x. I have a kraken x72 aio on my system. I was wondering if there would be any measurable benefit of putting fans both on top and under neath the radiator? There are mounting points on both sides of the radiator, and I was curious if there would be any difference getting 3 more fands and doing a push – push or push – pull setup on the radiator. My idea behind this was that if I keep the air moving through the radiator faster, the greater volume of air would absorb more heat to cool down the coolant. I was wondering if any one had tried this and noticed anything!
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Hello. I was wondering if having one 360mm radiator would obstruct another 360mm radiator on the top. would having a 280mm radiator on top and a 360mm radiator on the front be a better idea?
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I know I'm definitely not the first person to run a setup like this, but I figured I'd share anyways, since most of the threads I found on this kinda thing from other forums were a little lacking in detail, and I had to go through a bit of trial and error with the adapters. Since I got into watercooling about 5 years ago, I'd always wanted to try hooking up a car rad to a loop, since working on cars is my biggest hobby apart from PC stuff. After watching the disaster that was LTT's car rad video a few times, I figured I'd finally give it a shot, since my parents aren't here in my dorm to stop me from bringing car parts inside Ended up with an original 1970 Camaro 3 core radiator, which uses a full copper core with brass end tanks; $50 from Facebook marketplace! Some new tubing, $20 worth of PVC schedule 40 adapters, a $25 Harbor Freight pond pump (264GPH, 5.5ft head pressure; submersible, comes with a 1/2in barb adapter for the outlet, and has a removable/ washable filter for the inlet), and a few gallons of distilled water/ Primochill's included additive later, here it is! Got it propped up next to my window with a box fan blowing cold air from outside through into the room. ADAPTERS For the adapters, on this specific rad, I ended up using a rubber 1-1/4in to 1-1/2in adapter on the inlet and outlet. The outlet measures 1-1/2in, but the adapters turned out to be a bit oversized, so had to try a few before I got ones that fit snugly. From there, used 1-1/2in Schedule 40 PVC to 1/2in NPT threaded adapters, then put 1/2in x 1/2in MNPT barbs into those using T Plus 2 PTFE pipe sealant on the threads. From my research, found that it's best practice to use a non-setting thread sealer for this kind of connection, as opposed to the usual PVC cement. The sealant is rated for potable water systems as well, so I felt alright about having it in the loop, and it doesn't appear to have mixed with the coolant anyways, so I'd say it's working properly. The first time I tried to get this loop done, I used brass barbs in the adapters, but as it turns out, brass won't seal properly in PVC threads, so keep that in mind if you try this. RADIATOR CAP Finally, I ended up getting one of the pressure release style radiator caps, which actually turned out to be a huge help. The spring in the cap seals the neck of the rad, but if you lift the lever, it'll bleed all the air out of the loop through the overflow tank stem; very handy feature, and the cap was only $8 on Amazon. Keeps the system sealed with the lever down as well, so I didn't have to plug the overflow tank stem like I thought I would. A regular style cap would be a PITA to bleed, since it won't open unless your coolant pressure gets above 15psi, which isn't going to happen in a PC loop, so I'd recommend getting this kind of cap if you wanna build one of these rigs. TUBING/ COOLANT I used 7/16in ID x 5/8in OD Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, which fits snugly over the 1/2in barbs (may have to stretch it and fiddle around to get em started though), and just used standard PC G 1/4 compression fittings for the PC side of the loop. The Primochill tubing also comes with an additive that makes a gallon of coolant with growth and corrosion inhibitors, which I've been running with no issues in my regular loop for 5 years now, so I trust that it'll keep the loop clean (enough). Took somewhere around 4 gallons to fill the loop, including the 2 gallon bucket the pump is sitting in; the other 3 gallons are just plain distilled water, but when I move out of my dorm, I'll probably spend the extra money for more of the Primochill additive just to be safe. It's about $13/ gallon, which is actually cheaper than antifreeze where I am! Speaking of, I do have antifreeze on hand for when the temps start tanking here in Virginia as we get closer to winter, so we'll see if that ends up being necessary. Could always just close the window, but I'm a sucker for low temps on my components, so I'll keep it open unless I start seeing condensation. Oh, and back on the topic of the Primochill tubing, I'd also like to note that they say the tubing IS compatible with antifreeze, so that I shouldn't have to worry about adding it if/ when the time comes. JayzTwoCents did a couple videos a few years back with antifreeze in a loop, and it worked perfectly fine for a few months; only replaced it in his follow up vid because his DDC pump got shorted on the heatsink and he had to drain the loop. Antifreeze (at least the regular green kind, do some research on the different kinds to know the difference; If I recall correctly, the red Toyota coolant is only used in full aluminum systems, and I haven't looked into the orange or yellow types, but they all have different additives for the systems they were designed for; green was made for older cars with iron block engines, copper or rads, aluminum heads, copper heater cores, etc. Lots of different metals, so do your due diligence if you wanna try this to make sure you use a coolant that'll be compatible with your specific rad/ blocks)... er, got a bit rambly there, so I'll digress Anyways, antifreeze is designed to be in systems which use rubber, so you shouldn't have to worry about the seals in your loop degrading. ANYWAYS, that was all a lengthy roundabout way of saying that the Primochill tubing will work with antifreeze, and I'd imagine other soft tubings for PC cooling will as well, but just make sure that your tubing of choice is compatible if you want antifreeze. I believe most hardline tubing won't work, specifically PETG. I also wouldn't recommend doing hardline for this kind of thing unless you're quite certain that you're gonna keep the radiator and PC exactly where they are. Always preferred soft tubing for ease of maintenance personally, since I'm more concerned with performance than looks. Bet you could make a setup like this look pretty slick with copper tubing though; industrial chic! TL;DR: Make sure you do your research on coolant compatibility!! And don't do what Linus did in whole room watercooling, since antifreeze doesn't contain growth inhibitors! (car cooling systems don't need growth inhibitors since the heat from the engine will kill anything in the loop. Your PC will NOT get the coolant into the 220f+ range like an engine will) PERFORMANCE/ RESULTS Only have it hooked up to the GPU block for now, but it's been working for a bit over a week now with no issues. Really wish they'd properly hooked up the rad in the video, because it really does work quite well, and the adapters were only about $20 total. Even better though, if you poke around on secondhand marketplaces, you can find a good amount of full copper rads from older cars for quite cheap, since a lot of people with those cars like to move up to new 4 core aluminum rads and the like. All in, I paid about $135 for the full setup, not counting the GPU block. Hope they revisit this concept on LTT and actually do it right. As for performance, obviously it's quite good. Pump actually has pretty good flow through the whole loop, and the GPU idles at about the temps of the weather, maybe 1c higher. Got down to 12c at idle the other night when it was in the low 50f range, and running Cyberpunk with the 1080ti overclocked to 2075mhz/ 6107mhz mem, it peaked at 23c, and managed to stay at 2075mhz the entire time! When it was hooked into the CPU loop (780mm total rad area, sharing the loop with an i7 6950x @ 4.2GHz/ 1.24v), it would sit closer to 34c in the same conditions with the windows opened, and clocked down closer to 2012mhz. Really no actual impact on performance, but hey, its nice to see the clocks staying up. Got it to keep a stable 2113mhz in Time Spy as well, hoping to see it go higher once winter kicks in. CHANGES I'D LIKE TO MAKE Eventually, I do want to move to a traditional style D5 pump with a reservoir, but I went with the bucket/ Harbor Freight pump for now because budget. At the very least, I'd like to drill some holes in the lid of the bucket so the tubing can pass through and I can keep the bucket sealed. Would also like an actual way to mount the rad in one place as well, since it's just leaning against the window frame, but its been stable on the shelf, so it'll do. One last thing I considered trying, and may end up doing eventually, is to get some brass caps in the size of the inlet/ outlet for the rad, then drill/ tap them for G 1/4 thread, and braze them to the radiator. If that's done properly, it should theoretically hook up to a PC the same as any standard PC radiator, but I'm using the adapters for now since I don't have access to any of the tools for that here in my dorm room. Plus, that adds a bit of cost, and it means you'd be permanently modifying the radiator, so it'd never really work in a car again. Probably not a concern for most people, but I would like to own a 2nd gen f-body one day, so I may end up putting the rad back into the car it was designed for. Probably not, but you never know! Would definitely make the setup a bit more "proper" though, assuming it was done right. I'm also not sure if I'm going to make use of the transmission cooler lines. The lines lead into a cylindrical reservoir inside of the passenger side end tank, and it's designed to actually heat the trans fluid and keep it at operating temp. I'm sure if you wanted to get wacky and wild, you could do some kinda system with a condenser or a chiller through the trans loop, but it'd be pointless to add it into the loop with the main rad, since the coolant would be at the same temps. I'M FINALLY (almost) DONE TALKING! Apologies for the long post, but hopefully I remembered to put in all the little details for how to actually set the loop up, in case anyone was looking into doing something similar. If anyone has any questions or wants some clarification on anything I may have accidentally left out, let me know! Would love to hear back on any advice some of y'all may have on this kinda setup as well, since I'm new to the whole janky watercooling world; this whole project is just me experimenting, and I'm definitely no expert.
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I have an stock rear fan set as exhaust and deepcool gamerstorm 240 mm aio whose fans are set as intake. How should I change this to get better thermals. I plan to buy 3 additional fans and fix it in the front as intake and change the aio as exhaust.
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For those of you who have tried anything like this, what is your experience with cooling devices and cooling cases such as the Razer cooler and Arctech line? I know they don’t make the Archtech for the 12 Pro Max for some reason, but do for the 11 and 13 lines. Really odd. I’m trying to find suitable options for my iPhone 12 Pro Max. I don’t mind if the cooler/radiator doesn’t have MagSafe as long as it has a clamp that can still allow for it to be mounted. Ultimately, I’d like to find a cooler that can also be used with a cooling case, so long as the case is thin enough to actually be effective rather than just being cumbersome. I’m a massive Pokémon Go player, and it makes my iPhone extremely hot during heavy play sessions that last hours at a time, especially during the summer in direct sunlight that can’t really be avoided. The extremely dim screen and performance drops when the phone gets to that point make it essentially unplayable until I get back to my car, dock it on the mount in front of the vent, and blast the AC on it for 10 minutes. Then I would only be able to play for another 30ish minutes before I have to do it all over again. I know that a cooler would work better without a case, but just for device protection, even if it’s really thin, I’d like to find one that’s somewhat compatible. I’ve seen several videos on these things but they’re all reviewed without a case of any kind. I suppose a bumper case would work? Any thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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Please rate my setup with constructive ideas to improve. Design was to allow for 100% usage of the CPU and GPU for crypto mining as well as small enough to take while traveling for work. Its a bit heavy at around 33.6 lbs but thermals are great (55C max while mining). Loud!! Thermaltake 100 case, Alphacool Monster 120mm rad + generic 120mm rad in back, i7-12700k, AMD 6800XT Sapphire Nitro+ with Alphacool waterblock, D5 Swiftech pump with Alphacool Block, EK CPU waterblock, ASUS Mini ITX Z690 motherboard, 32GB ddr4 Gskill RGB, and 5000RPM 120mm Server Fans for cooling. Custom temp gauge for water temps and PWM fan speed controller.
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I'm starting to wish a little that I can go back in time and choose a different pump/res combo and radiators. The Darkside Cross-Flow radiators are proving to be a little cumbersome to work with because they are dictating what the loop order and fan intake/exhaust flow has to be. But my main issue right now is how to mount my EK Quantum Kinetic TBE pump/res combo. I bought it because it is what EK's config tool recommended I use, and I didn't notice at the time that it was a side mount pump and not bottom/floor mount like I assumed and I don't have the luxury of fast delivery to me location. To my eye's the only mounting options are either through the plastic floor/psu shroud cover, or to tuck it behind my vertically mounted gpu. Are these truly my only options or am I missing something?
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- custom loop
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Budget (including currency): USD$250 ~ BRL R$1350 Country: Brazil Other details I currently have a Matrexx 70 (120mm on the back, 3 120mm or 140mm above and on the front) from DeepCool and I’m looking a future-proof cooling solution (with RGB) for my PC, more specifically I want to know which are the 140mm rgb fans with the price/performance ratio. Also a radiator for a future CPU (currently a Ryzen 5 3600) upgrade is acceptable. My current planned solution are four Corsair LL140 with a Coolermastre RGB LED controller and a Corsair Hydro H115i RGB Platinum.
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I'm planing on building a build with a Ryzen 5 3600x and a RTX 3060 ti. What size rad should i get? (idk if i will get into overclocking)
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I know that mixing metals in a custom loop is bad, but will the EK quantum velocity (nickel) work with the Corsair Hydro X 240mm white rad(copper) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-amd-nickel-plexi?___store=default https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/CORSAIR-White-PC-Build/XR5-White/p/CX-9030007-WW Thank you for any help!
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Hello, i'm planning on building a new computer and would like to put an AIO on both my CPU and GPU. Therefore i was wondering if there were cases that support two front 240/360 rads (except the corsair 1000D). If there's nothing compatible then i'll consider putting one of them on top but i'd prefer double intake rads. Thanks for the help, Jungo
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So my 5000D airflow by Corsair just came in the mail today to replace my 4000D, the reason I wanted to upgrade the case was because my 4000 could only fit a 240mm AIO. Technically it supports a 280 with low profile memory but I don’t have that. I was originally thinking radiator on the front, tubes down, however the hoses on the AIO aren’t long enough and I don’t want the tubes upwards. So now I have to top mount it and use it as exhaust. I have a pack of 3 ml120 pro RGB fans by Corsair (same specs as the ones included with the AIO but lower rpm I think) so now I’m going to use those 3 to populate the front as intake. Now I have 2 leftover non RGB black fans that came with the case and was going to put one of them at the back of the case as an exhaust. That leaves 4 exhaust, 3 intake. Would this cause negative pressure? Should I not even put that fan in the back at all and leave 3 top exhaust and 3 intake? Or should I do something else? Also if I shouldn’t put the fan in the back of the case could I potentially do some sort of push/pull config with my two extra fans? I honestly have no idea what push pull really means I’ve just seen it in videos. My guess of what it means is that the fans on the bottom of the rad are pushing out while the fans on the other side of the rad are pushing in. But I don’t understand the logic of this, wouldn’t they just cancel out? Idk. Also I only have 2 fans left in the event I shouldn’t have one on the back and since it’s a 360mm AIO that means I’ll only be able to cover 2/3 slots for a push pull. Is that enough? Or should I order a third fan for a proper set up?
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Budget (including currency): (case transfer) $139.99 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming and making videos Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Going from a phanteks p300a to a Enthoo pro 2. I was unsure if it is possible to fit a 240mm crossflow radiator ( like the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper X-Flow 240mm radiator) on the bottom of the case while having a m-itx motherboard at the same time. Is it possible to have both at the same time?
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- enthoo pro
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