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Specs ASROCK B550 Phantom Gaming 4 (old cpu R3 3200g(ik its not compatible but it still works as long as you have a discreet GPU and dont use api)) NEW cpu is R5 5600x MSI 1650 super 2x8gb CORSAIR Vengeance LPX (BLACK) 3200mhz W_D 750 NVME/SSD EVGA 600w BRONZE(?) certified Windows 10 Home (x64) System was made July 2020 OS was reinstalled Jan 2021 to nvme from a dying HDD (no problems at all except slow painful time) Now to the nitty gritty. I was using a r3 3200g for awhile because its all i could get my hands on at the time with money budget and didnt check the motherboard support list as i knew it was supposed to support r 3,4000 chips. However no problems every occurred besides the maybe once a month BSOD for a ram compiler error i can never figure out. This is where the problems start. I was aware I needed to update the BIOS to install the new processor so I formatted a brand new USB drive to FAT 32 slapped the newest version of BIOS v1.90, v1.20 was when the r5 chipset became supported BUT I figured while i'm here I might as well get the newest version. I followed the OEM instructions on how to flash update the BIOS cleared the settings when the new BIOS was installed and double checked that the BIOS update was taken inside the BIOS menu. Powered down the machine turned the PSU off and unhooked everything got it to my workstation for grounding purposes. Unscrewed the old fan unlocked and uninstalled the OLD cpu (R3 3200g), took the r5 5600x out of the packaging inspected pins for dirt or bent/missing pins and everything was okay so i slapped her in locked it down fastened the fan pluged her into the cpu fan header and tried to boot. No post. Fans still work motherboards lights still showing VGA/Boot light and i cannot find anywhere in the manual that include the VGA/BOOT light. I took out the R5 5600x and reinstalled the R3 3200g and it boots right up without a problem. I know its not user error at this point and I already returned one 5600x because it was doing this i assumed it came DOA and refunded it for a new one. Well the odds of getting two dead r5 5600x chips are highly unlikely im now chalking it up to being a hardware problem. I first assumed it was the PSU so i ran all the parts currently on the computer into PCpartpicker and got a min wattage of 250 as mentioned above i have a 600watt and deffinitly am not pushing everything to the max just to boot especially since both processors are a 65 watt tdp i cannot see this being the issue seeing as the r3 works fine. Im down to my last legs before abandoning this Motherboard and just find a new motherboard that comes with r5 5600x compatibility from the box. Another friend mentioned i might of corrupted some form of the BIOS or something to do with how the computer reading the chip because i put an incompatible cpu into it. Any help would be much appreciated I dont want to keep guessing and playing 50/50 with a machine i cannot afford to replace completely at this moment.
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Hi, Helping someone on the /r/buildapc subreddit and he is running an R5 3600 w. the stock cooler. I know they can run toasty but his chip is spiking to 99C. He has already reseated the cooler with new paste and the problem persists. So I then asked him to run R20 with Ryzen Master in the background to monitor temps/voltage. He reported CPU core power draw of 66W and package draw of 85W. Nothing wrong there. However, all core voltage was sitting steadily at 1.46-1.47v, which is way too high for Zen 2...? One core, a spike, 1.45+ volts is fine, but not sustained for a continual load across all cores, surely? This has to be reason for his high temperatures, right? I am going to suggest MB BIOS update, ensure latest chipset drivers installed, and ensure he is running the Ryzen Balanced Power plan. He either has the most garbage tier 3600 in history (that barely made the certification to be a 3600), or there is an issue with hardware pumping too much voltage to the CPU, whether via a bad BIOS, or his power plan? Just sanity check my logic first before I send him on a wild goose chase!
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Hi i have the Define R5 case from Fractal with the two Originals 140mm 1000rpm 3pins fractal fans at the front and a noctua redux140mm 1500rpm at the rear. Inside the case in have the noctua nh-d15 air CPU cooler for my 5950x CPU. Then recently i bougth a MSI RTX SUPRIM X 3090 Graphic Card. I was worry about temps because where il live we reach 40°c easely during Sumner. I would like to know your advice about this. I'm considering buying the Fractal Define Torrent OR add two Noctua fans NF A14 PWN 1500RPM at the front and place the two Originals fans from Fractal at thé bottom but i doubt if this is more appropriated than buying the Torrent case. Or if its going to add more air into thé case or not. If you have other case option i would appreciate it Thanks in advance.
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From the album: Skylake Desktop Build 2015
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From the album: Skylake Desktop Build 2015
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Cable Tie Illustrating Unfiltered Intake Air Path
amp88 posted a gallery image in Members Albums Category
From the album: Skylake Desktop Build 2015
A cable tie illustrating a potential path for unfiltered air to enter via the optical drive bays of the Fractal Design Define R5 case.-
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https://www.proshop.no/Prosessor/AMD-Ryzen-5-1600-AF-Wraith-Stealth-Prosessor-6-kjerner-32-GHz-AMD-AM4-AMD-Boxed-PIB-med-kjoeler/2821686 https://www.proshop.no/Hovedkort/BIOSTAR-RACING-Hovedkort-AMD-B450-AMD-AM4-socket-DDR4-RAM-Micro-ATX/2686953
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So i have decided after the last few years of chasing that perfect case only to find the case be loud as hell in my silent bedroom. even on low the fans are just sounding like a wind tunnel. so i need help in choosing if the R5 or the XL R2 would suit me best. ATX board gtx 1080 AIO noctua nh d15 3x 3.5" hdd 3x 2.5" hdd DVD/BL drive. some advice on which to buy would be great as im torn and its a 50$ price difference for me.
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Are there any restrictions for reviewers or anyone that already owns one of the Ryzen chips to disable some cores and SMT here and there to give a theoretical idea where the R5s and R3s may be positioned in performance? Does it put a bad light on reviewers to do this kind of thing? I mean the 1800x, 1700x and 1700 are all interesting and what not but I think we all got the idea by now where it stands. It would be nice to get some idea where the 1600x 1400x and 1200x would lie in theory, similarly like how some of us had an idea what the i3 7350k would be like due to overclocking of the i3 6100 at the time or the few that disabled cores on i7s with an OC. Yes it's not super duper accurate but its definitely not so inaccurate that its a waste of time, it gives a nice ballpark of performance levels. Im sure many of us here would like to know without the unnecessary waiting
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Fractal Design R5 Black w/ Window (Newegg) - $80 There's been a backorder on the Define R5 Black w/ Window (not the Blackout) on Newegg since Saturday. Generally, Newegg closes purchase of items until they are back in stock, but I'm guessing that they got a deal and have left the case on backorder for purchase to be billed on the day of handling. I've heard a great deal of this case from several forum members and have decided to jump on this deal. Hopefully it goes through.
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Hello! I'm currently using a laptop but this will probably change soon . It just can't handle some tasks I thorw at it and the thermals are bad as well. I had some crashes in the last weeks when I didn't activate the cooler underneath it. I know that this problem could be fixed but an upgrade is needed anyways. So here are my expectations: I want to be able to play some games. I don't really play any graphical intense games and I'm using a 60Hz 1080p monitor. But gaming isn't the only thing I want to be able to do. Some light content creation should be possible as well. And this is the bigggest porblem with my current laptop. The parts: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 This CPU seems like the best CPU for me since it can handle everything I want to do and it comes with a decent cooler. Maybe I will replace the cooler later. Motherboard: Gigabyte B350 Gaming 3 This motherboard has lots of features for a B350 mainboard. But feel free to leave some other recommendations! RAM: 1x8GB Corsair Vengance 2400 Yes a single stick. The second one will probably follow soon and I don't want to buy 4GB RAM stick in 2017. GPU: Probably a RX 470/480 I'm just waiting for a good deal on one of those. Case: Fractal Design Define R5 I just want this case. Even though a cheaper case would make this build more balanced but the case is one of the components that can be used for multiple builds. PSU: Probably something like a EVGA Supernova G2 or Seasonic Prime (550W-650W) I want a good PSU. Storage: I already own an SSD that I will use again. An 1TB WD blue 7200rpm will be added as well. Feel free to leave some recommendations for me. What do you think about this build? Thanks!
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https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/GYMpYr not much more to say really, I have this build put in my baskets and am gonna order tonight if you guys don't have any changes or better suggestions, bearing in mind I live in the UK already own a case and a 1tb hdd so that is not needed
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Hey guys my i5 2500k is causing some problems with my video editing workflow, not enough cores and it's taking to long to render videos. I'm debating between the i7 3930K or the R5 1600. The Ryzen system will be about 110 usd more than the intel system, because I have to buy RAM for the AMD system. I do not care about power consumption. I hardly game but do do a lot of intensive work with the CPU like video editing and I also run VMs. Thanks for the help in advance.
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Greetings! I am currently building a budget computer rig for my self. It will also serve as my main computer for daily tasks, some mild Photoshop/Autocad usage and obviously gaming at 1080p. The list goes as follows: -Case: Corsair SPEC 01 -Ram: DDR4 Patriot Viper Elite 3200 mhz -PSU: Seasonic S12II 620W -Cooler: Coolermaster 212X -SSD: Some NVMe m2 ssd, have not decided yet -storage: 1TB Caviar Blue HDD -GPU: MSI GTX 1060 gaming X 3GB Now, the fun part. Because I am not able to spend 250 euros + for an i5 7600k just yet, I am planning to currently buy a cheap Pentium G4560 alongside with a MSI Z270 SLI Plus motherboard. Later on, I will buy an unlocked i5. thus the Z270 chipset. I know that games mostly use 2-4 cores max, (also proven in Luke's video about hyper threaded and multi core gaming). So, a 4 core/ 4 thread i5 would perform just fine. However, with new Vulcan and Direct X 12, more cores are actually utilized, so a multi core/multi thread processor would actually benefit. Because i7 7700k goes WAY over budget for a cpu (355 euros), the only reasonable thing to consider is the new Ryzen R5 1500X, costing around 225 euro or 25 euro less than the i5 7600k. The problem is that either way, I cannot spend that kind of cash for a ryzen r5 or 7600k right now. If I go with the 1151 socket, I will be covered with the Pentium for a while, maybe even a full year, until I can get the i5. If I go with AMD, I will probably have to wait some months until I can get it. I am also considering long term factors, I want to keep this setup for at least a good 4-5 years and still run modern games of that time at least medium settings and average fps. Also, the AM4 socket will probably be on the market for 4-5 years, while 1151 may change at the next generation Ice Laky CPUs. Considering all the above, what would you do in my case? Thanks in advance, Cheers!
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I just build a Ryzen system, R5 1400 with ASUS Prime B350 Plus with 16GB of 2400MHZ Pacific SUN Ram. My current GPU is a Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming. Everything is running just fine at first setup. I am not overclocking but did set optimized settings in UEFI to max the clocks to 3.8 GHz. I played my favorite game, Skyrim Legendary Edition and streamed (using a second dedicated streaming PC, not the Ryzen) to Youtube. After 3 hours of playing all monitors went black. I hit reset and was able to resume gaming. Later I did some stress tests using Heavyload on the CPU and after 1 minute I was able to replicate the crash. I then set defaults in the UEFI, still crashed. The CPU is being cooled by a spare Wraith cooler from my old FX 8370. The temps are hitting 55 degrees. I got some advise and had to downclock the Ram to 2133 MHz. I also set the motherboard back to defaults except for the ram. Ran Heavyload again and it lasted for 10 minutes at stock clocks. I was curious and I had it auto overclocked to 3.8 GHz again with the 2133 MHz ram, but that crashed i minute into stress test. So I have everything in stock now with 2133 MHz ram and it's ok. I do wish to be able to up the clock again later. I wanted to know what people thought of this issue and if anyone else have any advise.
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Hi guys, I'd like to game at 1080p 60 fps and I'd like to do some video editing in the future (nothing heavy, I think mostly 720p and 1080p video's). Which of these cpu's would give me the best performance? The intel core i5-7400 or the AMD Ryzen R5-1400? Please vote in the poll.
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Which is better to get. (Windowless)
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CPU: R5 1400 - Overclocked to 3.9GHz Motherboard: ASUS Prime B350 Plus (latest BIOS) GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming RAM Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3000 MHz (got it clocked at 2933 MHz) So I was able to overclock my Ryzen 1400 to 3.9 GHz. I use a Cooler Master Hyper T4. When stress testing using Prime 95, I was getting 80 degrees tops using NZXT Cam and Hardware Monitor. However, when I look at ASUS AI Suite, I was only running at 65 Degrees on the CPU. Which one is more accurate?
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I'm currently overclocking my rig and need some extra cooling now that I see how hot my rig is going to get over time. I have a few questions regarding that.My case is a Define r5 Should I get another case fan? @4.7ghz my temps are between 75 - 80c Assuming that answer is going to be yes, what size fan should I get? Currently I have 2 120mm on the CPU cooler, 2 140mm fans in the front of my Define r5 and 1 140mm in the rear (exact fans are listed in my profile. Dont remember what they are XD). Where would the ideal placement of the extra fan be in the r5? Seeing how my current batch of fans are using the sys_fan ports on the mobo, should I connect the extra fan to the r5's fan controller? Can PWM fans be connected to a 3 pin fan controller (the one on the r5)? Would the extra fan/s actually help cool down the system?
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Hello everyone, my current case is the carbide 100r silent edition, is a great case with a poor dust filter at the front, so i decided to buy a new case. I'm conflicted between the phanteks p400s, the fractal r5 or the nzxt h440. I like the look of h440, i like r5 because of the removable bottom filter from the front and the rgb of phanteks. I appreciate every help.
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Hello everybody, so I'm upgrading my rig, I am the current owner of a FX-6300 with 8gb of 1600Mhz DDR3 Ram and a GTX 750 Ti. This system has served me well, but, the time to change has come and my GTX 1060 6Gb it's already inbound, this leaves me with incredibly hard CPU choice, I was looking for an i5 4570 as I found a used one for a great price, but… it got sold before I could even decide, so scrapping a little more I found an i5 7400 at a more or less great price too, $325, including a MOBO and one 4Gb DDR4 memory stick,the memory stick it's not anywhere close to what I intend, it's even from a generic brand, however, I will still need one to boot until I sell my current ones, so, even without it, it would still be way bellow market price, thus being surprisingly convenient, but, I'm still hesitant, should I spend a little more for a R5 1400? Is it worth it? I've been having people recommending me it, but, I've been also seeing it being outperformed in many gaming benchmarks, settling for a R5 setup would cost me around $333. The ($333) R5 setup: - Asrock A320m - R5 1500 - 4Gb 2133Mhz DDR4 HyperX Fury The ($325) i5 setup: - Asus H110M-A M.2 - i5 7400 skt1151 - 4GB DDR4 2400mhz ADATA The prices are very close, so what's the best choice after all? I should remark that my main use is gaming(1080p), even with ocasional image/video editing and VFX. Any other tips/hints will also be appreciated. Obs: All prices are simply converted from my nacional currency(BRL).
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Hi First post here, although I've been reading here for a while... My question is: Should I get a 30mm thick 420mm HWlabs GTS, or a 60mm thick EK XE360mm to expand the loop in my Fractal Design R5? Background: I have an R5 with all drive bays removed, in which I used to have a 360mm EK Predator as an intake, cooling 2 1080Ti's with the 7700K CPU on air (NH-D15). It used to be a near silent aircooled rig, that started making way to much noise once I added in a second 108Ti in SLI (MSI Gaming X). One was near silent, 2 horrible. I then put both of them on water using a modded (cpu block removed) Predator expandable AIO and prefilled GPU blocks. This was my first venture into non-CLC watercooling... This worked fine in my use case (GPU's mostly using only 60% of their TDP), but really struggled when I stressed both GPU's for a longer time at 100% TDP. OC was not an option, so I started plotting an upgrade... Given the complexity to empty, fill and bleed the Predator unit while it is in the case and the fact that the low powered DDC 3.1 in the unit is not able to push both a second radiator and QDC connections, I bought a EK D5/140mm pump res combo and a 30mm thick HWlabs GTS280mm radiator which I put in the front with 2 Noctua NF-P14s's before and added QDC's to that as well as a temporary solution, so I could make up my mind how te proceed. I didn't dare go for something thicker, because I suspected it would not fit. If I measure now, a 45 or 60mm thick 280mm rad might actually just fit, but only in push... While HWlabs 30mm thick GTS rads are reported to perform similar to 45mm thick EK PE rads at the same dimension, the difference between the 360mm and the 280, combined with the shift from 2200rpm max Vardar fans to 1200rpm max Noctua's has made the current solution unable to cope with the heat of the 2 GPU's at 60% TDP. I added a water temperature probe and the water gets above 60 degrees quickly... I run on one GPU atm. I can still hook the Predator back into the loop, with it's pump disabled, in which case I get decent temperatures when I test it... To do this, the Predator sits outside the case and the cpu is still not in the loop. A predator has rather high noise 2200rpm Vardar fans, but only a 45mm EK PE radiator core in it. I want to change this to a system contained within the case, and the most obvious way to do so, would be to add either a 420mm x 30mm rad in the top, or a 360mm x 60mm one. The HWlabs GTS420 and XE360 both seem to be best in class, but I can't find any comparison between them. With the 360mm I get to keep an 140mm Noctua exhaust fan, (also giving me more negative pressure in the case unless I reverse it), with the 420mm I can't keep that fan. I mainly run the system with low CPU usage, and full load on the GPU's at 60% TDP limit right now. I want the least possible amount of noise in this use case, but headroom for scaling up to (noisier) overclocking in the future would ideally still be an option... I am leaning towards AF-F14 PPC 2000 PWM or NF-F12 PPC 2000 PWM fans for both usecases. Has anyone compared the performance of both rads to each other?
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Have a Cryorig H5 Universal, but am getting 80 degrees with my 7700K in even the lowest ends of games, with every fan in my computer on full blast. Because of this, I'm thinking of getting a radiator instead. Here's the interior of my computer: I removed the front bays because I initially planned on getting a radiator, but then figured that air cooling would be enough. Fan at bottom blows upwards, grill fans are intake, rear fan is exhaust. My case is a Fractal Design R5 (no window). Let me know where I should put the radiator, which radiator you think I should get (and which fans, if I should get any for it), and anything else you might suggest for me. Thanks. <3