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Hey guys. I replaced my Lian Li Galahad Trinity AIO with a replacement AIO that’s the exact same, because it made a swish/bubble noise every time I turned on my pc. However the one I replaced it with is doing the same thing but louder. If I leave my computer off for like 8+ hours, I hear the air bubbles when it turns on. It doesn’t occur when the pc restarts or turns off for like an hour. What do I do? My pump running 80% speed and I’ve tilted my case over and over…. It’s super odd that multiple units do the same thing. The sound goes away after a few seconds and then I hear the pop or little tiny bubbles getting pushed out of the pump for the next 20 seconds….. it makes no sense. I asked a few people, and one said to move the tubes on the AIO block itself to the top. So like if i rotated my pump 90 degrees... I can try and do that, but i might make a mess lol. I don't know if that will fix it or not... I also set my pump speed lower than normal, around 2700 instead of the 2800-2900 the Lian Li Trinity 2 AIO allows. The picture below is my computer, and the video below is the video of the OLD pump. You can hear the noise, but on the new one it's a whole lot louder than that. I probably should've stayed with my old pump... video1.mp4
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Hey guys. I've had my new build for 2 months now and the AIO has been noticeably noisy, especially since it's sitting right next to me on the desk. The pump produces a very high pitch sound constantly. The issue is somehow more audible at idle state when I'm just browsing internet, watching youtube videos etc and disappears almost completely when in game. Here's a short video with all case fans disabled (high pitch sound is very noticeable at around 0:30) : Disclaimer : I know the AIO should be mounted with tubes coming out from the bottom but I couldn't because of GPU length. The Arctic documentation shows (and several youtube videos from gamers nexus/jayztwocents etc) that tubes coming out from the top is fine if the pump is below the highest point in the loop, which is the case here. I've contacted Arctic support and they can't really identify the issue so they told me to ask for a replacement unit, but what's keeping the next one from behaving exactly the same ? This high pitch noise is what's really driving me nuts since it's piercing through my headphones. So.. is this normal behavior for an AIO pump ? Let me know, thanks.
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I have a 5900x with Liquid Freezer II 280 for 2.5 years now. Today it suddenly went to 95c while browsing internet and light background tasks. I let it sit off a while and launched into bios. It went to 65 then 70 then 75 so i decided to turn it off again. LF2 vrm fan still spins, the radiator fans daisy chained to the LF2 still spin. Is it possible only the pumping function got shot randomly?
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I am trying to bring water temps into Fan Control to help get my aio pump noise under control. The pump isn’t loud, in fact with even the quietest movies or music in the background I can’t hear at all, but working in silence, it is all I can hear or think about. I fiddled around with Fan Control and found that the pump is dead silent at 50% and acceptable to 70-75%, but water temps went from 7 above ambient to 11-12 above. I don’t like having the higher water temp, but if that is ok then problem solved. I would like to set up a curve based off of water temp for the pump and keep the cpu temp for the rad fans. Only problem is I have a Thermaltake Toughliquid Ultra and the water temp is only displayed on the pump display and reported to ThermalTake’s control software. I need help getting the sensor values to hwinfo or directly into Fan Control.
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Hello! I'm currently looking for a replacement AIO for my main rig (i7-9700k) and an air cooler for my backup setup (i7-4770k). Recently, my Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 stopped working, the pump was making rattling noises and I had to move the case around to get it to start. It's quite dissapointing that it failed after just two years, particularly because this is the first time I've experienced an AIO cooler dying before the 5-year mark. I've started the RMA process (I believe the new 6-year warranty is retroactive) but they haven't responded yet (it's been 4 days) and I can't wait two months for it to finish since I use that PC for heavy workloads. Anyway, after checking the CPU Cooler Tier List, I found the following models available at local stores: AIO Tier 1: Deepcool Infinity LT520 240 - $127.06 Deepcool LS520 240 ARGB - $142.88 AIO Tier 2: Cougar Aqua 280 ARGB - $83.83 EVGA CLC 240 RGB - $113.40 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 - $124.40 Lian Li Galahad 240 Black ARGB - $129.71 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 - $143.86 Air Tier 2: DeepCool Assassin III - $119.07 Air Tier 3: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black - $155.97 I have read only positive reviews about the DeepCool LT520, so I'm considering it. However, the prices of the Cougar Aqua 280 and EVGA CLC 240 have caught my eye. Since there's a possibility of having a spare Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240, I'm interested in trying something different, like the Lian Li Galahad 240. As for my backup PC, I have heard that Noctua is releasing an update this year, so I am leaning towards the DeepCool Assassin III. Are there any important details about these models that I should know, such as pump quality or warranty information? What would you recommend? Thank you in advance!
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I just bought a new Kraken Z73 from microcenter, but it doesn’t seem to be doing its job. I went to install windows on my new build today, and when I came back to my computer it was in the BIOS because it safety shut off from the CPU getting to hot. It was idling at 55 C in the BIOS. Neither of the tubes for the AIO felt cold, and when I touched the pump, it wasn’t vibrating. I restarted the pc, and noticed when I first start the pc, the pump vibrates for a second, and then goes still. I have gone over the internet and I cannot find out what is wrong with the pump, and I’m worried I will have to get a new one. I’m using an ASUS X670E-E motherboard, with a 7900X. Things I have tried: •Reseated the SATA power connector •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_FAN header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CPU_OPT header •plugged the 3-pin pump connector to the CHA_FAN header •Set the Q-Fan control DC and PWM to Full •Reseated the pump to the CPU with fresh thermal paste
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I'm starting to wish a little that I can go back in time and choose a different pump/res combo and radiators. The Darkside Cross-Flow radiators are proving to be a little cumbersome to work with because they are dictating what the loop order and fan intake/exhaust flow has to be. But my main issue right now is how to mount my EK Quantum Kinetic TBE pump/res combo. I bought it because it is what EK's config tool recommended I use, and I didn't notice at the time that it was a side mount pump and not bottom/floor mount like I assumed and I don't have the luxury of fast delivery to me location. To my eye's the only mounting options are either through the plastic floor/psu shroud cover, or to tuck it behind my vertically mounted gpu. Are these truly my only options or am I missing something?
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- custom loop
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Ive had this this full loop installed for 2 days now. And no noise. But now when i got home i noticed the sound. I didnt think too much of it and then i happened again, and again. Until i started to worry. the sounds are about 20 secounds apart and is less frequent on higher rpms. FullSizeRender.MOV
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I recently bought a Corsair h150i Pro XT and I find the pump to be just a tiny bit too audible. As the pump gets its power thru a Sata power header i was wondering if I could solder a resistor into the voltage leads of a SATA connector, to lower the RPM. I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work, but if you guys got any advice, thanks in advance!
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Hey, I've been dealing with this issue since i built PC with NZXT Kraken x63. All cables are connected correctly as it's written in Manual of installation. The AIO is working really well on OC 8700k,it can also be detected in NZXT Cam with The strip of NZXT H510i. I Can change everything except pump RGB Light (Circle/Led) and its only visible in the one corner,can't even light up NZXT Logo (Check the real image).I've tried different usb ports and other sata connectors but still same. Am i doing something wrong or it has dead Led on pump? Should i contact the seller? Thanks.
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Hey, so I'm building a loop for my brother's PC. We're using an NZXT H200i, so to save space on the pump, we bought this combo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html after Optimum Techs good review of it. However, the pump acts weirdly, for example, it just wont pump water most of the time. The motor is spinning, but it just doesn't push water. Then other times, it pumps but at a very slow flow. I say 10% of the time we could get it to spin normally. When it was in the system, tilting it to the front and power cycling a dozen times we got it to spin quickly as it should. When it spins quickly, the speed control and everything works. But after draining the loop, looking at the pump, and seeing nothing physically wrong, we can not get it to spin at the proper speed outside the case. I recorded a video of it spinning slowly, hence having bad flow and being quiet, and while the system was tilted and it going "fast". Sorry for the bad phone quality. Is this pump defective and we should return it? Thanks for the help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvFvfVuEYfc&ab_channel=Gecko.
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- water cooling
- barrow
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Hi together, I'm interested in buying a DDC Pump, one with PWM control and want to ask if someone have some experience with these pumps. 1: Are they reliable? 2: Do they actually need active cooling under their pcb? 3: Do heavy brass tops really reduce vibrations (like the Alphacool Eisdecke, or the one from Phobya)? 4: Is the flow rate higher compared to a D5 at the same noise level? For the active cooling aspect, I thought of buying a chunk of copper, drill some holes in it with G 1/4 threads and connect the pump bottom case in my cooling loop.
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Hey guys! I'm doing an at home experiment for my physics degree due to covid restrictions, and I need to suck water up a straight vertical tube. I'm not a super practical person and I've been racking my brain for ages to find a nice cheap solution, and then it occurred to me that water cooling enthusiasts might have some experience/ideas on this. Let me describe the problem in detail. The bigger picture is that I want to put a vertical tube in a tank, draw water up the tube, then release the water so that it drops back down the tube and oscillates up and down within the tube. What I need to figure out is a cheap and simple way to draw the fluid up the tube initially. The tube must be rigid, straight, and transparent. The tube will be about 1m in length, and I would like to be able to draw the fluid nearly to the top but not all the way to the top where it'd overflow. I must be able to draw the fluid slowly enough that I could precisely set the height anywhere on the tube. The tube diameter is not yet decided, but I would be happy to use standard sized pipes and fittings, ideally a tube between 0.5-2cm in diameter would be good (but I'm flexible on this). I was thinking that I'd need to put a valve on the top of the tube then use a suction pump to draw water up the tube, then seal the valve, and when I'm ready to drop the fluid, quickly open the valve again. It would be a bonus (really not necessary if it's not very easy to incorporate) if I could get an accurate pressure measurement of the air inside the tube before I drop the fluid. Also, once I open the valve I don't want it to restrict air flow too much as this would stop the fluid falling freely. I want the pressure in the tube to near instantly reach atmospheric pressure after opening the valve. I'd like to achieve all this for under £50 (ideally quite a bit less than that). I'm in the UK, so please could you recommend parts that I'd be able to get here, and I'm not limited to buying PC water cooling parts, literally anything that will do the job is fine! I'd be really grateful for any advice, parts recommendations, alternative methods, etc. (I suppose one alternative method is that I could pump water into the bottom of the tube then seal it with a valve at the top and remove the pump apparatus from the bottom of the tube before opening the valve again. I am aware I could also lower the tube into the tank, seal it, then lift it up, but this isn't viable for me as I won't have a deep enough tank to be able to get the water far enough up the tube.)
- 3 replies
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- water
- water cooling
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Hi. I am very interested in the Lian Li Galahad 240mm, but I heard in a Gamer's Nexus video that there is a noticeable pump whine, as well as several Reddit posts about it. I am curious is that a really loud noise or is it relative to the listener. I am curious if anyone has either the 240 mm or the 360 mm if they faced that issue, and if they did, could they make a recording of said noise so I can hear it for myself. I want to hear if it is something I can live with. Also did anyone have that issue and was able to solve it? Thanks in advance.
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Budget (including currency): $1,000.00 USD I am looking at a custom corsair water cooling loop for icue software 14mm hard tubeing D5 pump/ reservoir combo 3x 360mm Radiators CPU: 5950x w/ EKWB Monoblock for the asus strix x570-E GPU: EVGA 3080 ti HYDROCOPPER case : 5000X RGB Do i need a distribution plate? Do i need any special fittings? how would you run this loop?
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While upgrading my PC, I bought a new AIO, Corsair iCUE H100i RGB Pro XT. My system posts, but I noticed the RGB on the pump was not on. In the bios I noticed the pump was not on. I concluded that my power supply does not have the correct sata cables for this pump. Referencing this Corsair blog post My PSU (Thermaltake Smart 700w) only has 6 sata(4-pins) AIO requires a 5-pin sata power cable. I have tried searching for a molex to sata 5 pin, but I can't find any results. Do I have to buy a new PSU in order to use this AIO, or are there adapters I can use on the market that can solve this issue.
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Ive watched a few Gamers Nexus videos on how to properly install it, im gonna be using a Asus Prime Z690-P with the 12600K, im hoping the images will show enough information. Case is the Corsair 275R Airflow
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I was watching a PC build in Korean & it had what looked like a chunky 240 rad with inset fans & a built in pump branded as Lian Li. What is this called & is it any good? It looks like an elegant cooling component for crammed or sff builds, I definitely want to look into it.
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So, I've jumped the power supply, disconnected everything except the sata-4pin adapter that's connected to the pump & it isn't pumping. I just wanted to see the motor spin before I go full send & fill the reservoir but I've tried powering it on with 4 different PSUs & same thing, PSU on, pump doesn't go. Does it need water to run? Has anyone filled a loop like this who can help me out?
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My brother in law has an MSI Sea hawk 2080ti and he told me that it was getting up to 80 degrees which is quite high for an AIO water cooled GPU. I think he got the card as soon as it came out, and he says the only thing he has ever done is take it out of his computer when moving house and put it back in, this is the first time he has taken the cover off. He sent me this picture and I have never seen anything like this, does anyone have any idea what this build up is on the pump? I can hear liquid in the radiator when I shake it.
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Hi, I have EK CLASSIC SPC 160 pump and EK CLASSIC 360mm 27mm thick Radiator. My wife wants to gift me an upgrade, should i get a decent D5 pump or thicker Radiator? My current pump is rated 250L/H and am only cooling the CPU Thanks
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- watercooling
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Hi guys, new to posting on Forums but I've been PC building for years, probably about 12 systems total between work, friends, and for myself since 2016. I recently bought a deepcool Castle 360ex on Facebook Marketplace. The pump is not sending water through the loop I am 90% certain. I had a 120mm aio in here before on the same header (I also tried another anyway no change) I turn it on and go to bios so I can look at temps. It goes from 57 down to 54 if I've let it rest enough to cool, and then once the metal is heated it starts going up quickly reaching into 90C and the first time when I checked after not going to bios it was 113 and shut off as I opened ryzen master. Do you guys think he sold me a bad AIO, was it damaged in shipping, or am I missing something? He's been a very nice guy throughout and says he tested it and it worked. I know it is making good contact with the CPU because of the cooling for the first 30 seconds and how the thumbscrews and plate that mounts to the backplate get hot as well. All fans are spinning, all panels off as well so it isn't bad airflow. I tried SYS_FAN6_Pump (what my last AIO was connected to, it was a prebuilt I bought for the gpu) and CPU_OPT (what some guy in a video said to use if it was closer than pump header) it's just a ryzen 5600x so it shouldn't be hard to cool. My main question is, is the only thing needed to power this pump the one cable to the pump header? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something, the videos I've watched don't mention anything like that. Also worth noting I have not been able to get the RGB to work on the pump or my front fans since I did this. I will have to watch a video on how to get these phanteks case fans working properly. If you have anything I can try in regards to the pump let me know, thanks!
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Hello everyone. I apologize for the bad English, the text was translated using Google. And so the problem appeared yesterday, I have a NZXT Kraken Z73, it worked fine, but yesterday there was a strong noise. It always appears over 50% of the pump speed. I have already tried shaking the radiator, turning it as much as possible, I also twisted the pump itself in different directions, but all without results. Sometimes when the radiator is shaking, the sound disappears for a couple of minutes, for a maximum of 3 minutes, but then it appears again. What can I do about it? There is no way to contact the store and NZXT: (Here is a video on youtube how it sounds https://youtube.com/shorts/uBtVSO6kDnQ?feature=share. Thank you