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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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Found 16 results

  1. So in armoury crate i put fans on silent and out of nowhere my pc shut completely off and doesnt get power anymore. I checked thr PSU switch and i think its the psu thars damaged. (If i would get power the mainboard rgb logo and gpu led should be seen.) But it didnt. PSU: Gigabyte GIGABYTE GP-UD1000GM PG5 1000W 80+ Gold Rev 2.0 I bought a new psu and im waiting to look if its truly the problem. I dont think it was a short circuit somwhere because there wss nothing metal touching my pc or something. My Room electricity worked too. What do you guys think could be the reason? Do you think my other components ciuld be damaged too? PC (wizhout psu): - aSUS Rog Strix B760-F WiFi -Geforce RTX 3070ti -Intel i7 12700k -Corsair Veangeance Ram 2x16gb DDR5
  2. I am looking for a 550-600w psu around 75 bucks. I need semi modular or full modular for cable management issues. if there is not a such psu, ill go with non modular
  3. First, sorry for my bad english, is not my language. As the title says, my 3080 will arrive in 3 days and im realizing that there are posts saying that seasonic psus are bad (focus units) for high end graphics cards. And there are posts saying that the problem its fixed in units prior to jan 2018. Can someone explain to me if i should use the psu ? I bought it exclusively for the 3080 a month ago. The rest of my system: I5 9600kf (no oc) 16gb (8x2) B360M PRO-VDH Currently using a gtx 1050 ti strix with the seasonic psu.
  4. Hello everyone. I have a planned build and have some of the parts thus far Motherboard: INTEL DESKTOP ATX MOTHERBOARD DZ77SL-50K LGA1155 Z77 CHIPSET CPU: Core i5-2400 RAM: 8GB 1333MHz DDR3 (1.5V I believe) DIMMs Thermal Paste that came with CPU. SanDisk Ultra II 240GB SSD. SATA DATA Cables.... don't know if SATA power cables will come with a PSU or not. Help? Those are the parts I have. Parts I plan to get Graphics Card: GTX 750Ti (Doesn't use extra power connectors, does it?) Also, good enough for many DX11 Games today. An optical blu-ray or simply DVD/CD Drive for retro titles.... someone claimed I wouldnt need it, but I DO! JetFighter IV for LYFE. And parts I need but don't know what to look for upon advice from othe forum users: Power Supply Unit. All I really need is 550W or 500W, but I want a Tier 2 or Tier 3 PSU to "not have my computer get on fire." Recommendations? (That are hopefully $60 or less) Case. Apparently new ones come with motherboard standoffs and stuff, and plus I saw some inexpensive ($40) ones with transparent side panels, so I'd like one of those! Recommendations? I have an iFixit Pro-Tech Tool Kit so assembling it shouldn't be a problem once I have the appropriate parts (and no, I didn't buy it just for the assembly - I use it for other things fairly often). Thanks!
  5. Disclaimer: This is not my material, in Just resuming it here because the original is in portuguese. Ronaldo Buassali "rbuass", is a professional overclocker and hardware enthusiast, with partners like Corsair and Galax. Well, this topic is about some important critics about the 80 Plus system. The main points are: -Test samples: there is no oficial Pattern for the tests, meaning there is no guarantee that the manufacturer wont send a good unity for TESTING and then change the project and still use the 80plus sticker. -Certification expiring: the certification has no expiring. A PSU they tested had a 80 Plus silver from 2009, but nowadays it would not even fit in the 80 Plus White. You can change the PSU all you want and keep the sticker for years and years. -Metodology: the temperature delta is 10°C, which does not makes a lot of sense. Teclab tests the PSUs with 2°C delta, and they dont have the same resources that ecova has. This delta can cause HUGE diferences in the results. -Fiscalization: its easy to find fake 80 Plus out there, and the certification is becoming less and less serious because they dont acknowledge or punish the fake ones. MY OPINION: Nowadays, 80 Plus means nothing, but big reviewers act like it still does. A PSU with 80 Plus can be CRAP, and i know 80 Plus is a measure of eficiency, not overall quality, but still... I think only Gold or higher means something (but not every PSU in THIS category), and this is bad. The certification should be an indicative, and not hurt the consumer. They proposed stuff like: renew the certification every x years, test PSUs bought randomly to check for frauds (project changes after the certification), and test with more precision. What you think? You agree/disagree or want to propose other stuff? Do you take the certification seriously, and it is a important factor in your purchases? http://m.tecmundo.com.br/fonte/75317-provando-farsa-80plus-marcas-fonte-video.htm
  6. First post I am putting together a computer for some light gaming with some used and not used parts, the specs are here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/37cvq3 Here's a small list of some PSU's I've found that are in my budget (40$+) below. FSP Hyper K 500W Cooler Master MWE White v2 450W EVGA BV 450W Corsair VS 450W Which one of these should I get? Thanks.
  7. Hi all, after finishing my watercooling loop I have been made promptly aware that the loudest component in my PC was actually the power supply, a CX750M. While not a bad power supply by any standard, the fan is quite loud at the loads I’m putting on it(300 watt Vega 56 @ 1.7 Ghz something something load i7-6800K @ 4.1 Ghz). I was looking at replacing it with an RM unit, and I was wondering if the RM1000 would be worth the extra 40$ over the 850 for my use case, in which I’d prefer silence, but if there’s no meaningful difference I’d rather not spend more than I have to. Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
  8. so my system will use core2quad and gtx 560 or less power hungry card. im buying cheap, used psu, choose one of these xilence xp550 thermaltake litepower 450w coolermaster atx12v 450w fps epsilon 500w thx for your help and time
  9. I have an i5-6500 and an R9 390, which should be a good match, but the GPU seems to be really under performing. This is in every game, but the one which really stood out was far cry4, which on ultra it would have 60-80fps, but me playing at very medium settings (I'm talking no MSAA or SSAO or any fur or game works or godrays) I only get about 50fps. I'm on the latest drivers and I have a Corsair RMX 650 for my PSU. Any help?
  10. Hi. I've been looking at some power supplies, and it seems all the ones with nice looking all black cables have a decent price premium compared to ones with multicolored ones. I was just wondering if there was an easy way to cover those up and make them look nicer? I'm planning an all black + white build, so I feel that colored cables would be huge eye sores. Would electrical tape work? If anyone knows a safe way to do something like this, it'd be good to hear. Unless, anyways, if someone can tell me what they think about this PSU? It has black cables and seems to be a good deal, but I've been told by a few people it's unreliable. However, the reviews on every site I've checked have been mostly positive and average around 4/5. So I'm having a bit of confusion with that. Thanks ppl. http://www.ncix.com/detail/thermaltake-smart-750w-atx-12v-cc-80745-1204.htm?affiliateid=7474144
  11. My father has decided to buy my a new gpu for christmas and I can buy a new psu soon afterwards. However, I was planning to upgrade my whole PC when I get my tax returns in March (At the latest). My question for you all is can I wait two months to upgrade my psu? Specs: CPU: Amd Athlon 750k GPU: 7850 now (GTX 970 later) MOBO: FM2-A55M-E35 RAM: 2x4Gb Corsair HDD: WD Blue PSU: Raidmax 500AF I'm aware that the brand is on the lowest tier of PSUs, but I've been using it for a year now. I've had no problems with it so far, and I plan to recycle it as soon as I upgrade my whole system.
  12. hi i really need your guys help is this compatible: cpu: intel core i5 4690k Devils canyon psu: corsair CX 500m mothrboard: Gigabyte GA Z97N GAMING 5 (mini itx) case bitfenix prodigy - white gpu: geforce gtx 770 (reference cooler) ram: kingston hyperX fury DDR3 8GB 1866 MHz i really hope you guys help me beacouse im a first time builder
  13. Hi guys, The power supply on my ancient AMD server build failed recently. Normally this wouldn't be too big of a deal, but Tyan (the board's manufacturer) only seemed to "approve" a handful of power supplies to work with the Thunder K7 motherboard in this build. I've been having a tough time tracking down any of those power supplies (especially since it's been a whopping 13 years since this motherboard was released). I was wondering if you guys know of any current PSUs being sold that would work with the board. The last PSU that was in the server was a Antec PP-510D (510W), which worked but wasn't on the official "approved" list. I can't seem to dig up info or specs on the Antec PP-510D anymore however, which makes it impossible to track down a similar PSU that might work. I realize it might be time to let this PC go, but it would be silly given that all the other parts still work perfectly fine. I would also like to apologize for the oddly specific nature of this post. Thanks for your time.
  14. Hello everyone! There is one more thing (actually 2, but nvm), that I want to talk to you guys about before getting my new PC. First: Is it worth it to get a semi.modular or a full modular power supply, even tho I am not a PRO builder and my PC is and is going to be under the desk, so no one will actually look inside of it. Basically it's just a thing of cable management and I am already running kind a short on budget, so 20 or 30 extra bucks doesn't really help me if it's not worth it. Second thing: What cables are the best to use when it comes to video/monitors? Right now I am using an HDMI and a DVI, but since I am getting a GTX 970, which has 2 DVI ports I should probably use both of them, right? Also they are different, so what's the difference? (link to the card if you are too lazy too find it yourself: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NSEK2G2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE ) So because they are different, I have to use proper DVI cables and which of them are the best?
  15. I don't think that they're really worth it because you still have cables flying all over the place and I would still spend the extra money on a fully modular PSU. Some cases have enough cable management to hide away the extra cables anyway...
  16. It slides in nicely but than at the last 2 millimeters or so it wont go in any further.This seems to be a pretty common problem but nothing I do works.I do not want to damage the pins... Thank you for reading.
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