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I feel this might be an easy one. Are ok if PSU pcie/vga cables are touching the GPU? Right now Im switching to a 7800xt, since this is a bigger card the second cable is touching some parts of the gpu. Added pic. My current setup: - AMD 5700 X3D with MSI's kombo strike 2 enabled - MSI b450 tomahawk MAX motherboard - 2x16 Teamgroup Vulcan 3200mhz cl16 axmp enabled - 7800 XT XTX QICK319 speedster (just arrived) - PSU Gold EVGA 650w G5 supernova (I already made another topic about my PSU, I'm aware that is not the recommended). - 1 nvme m.2 970 Samsung; 1 SSD storage; 1 HDD storage. - 7 fans. Thx in advance!
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Hello i need help! my computer is a prebuilt msi nightblade mi3, With a I5-8400, 16 gb DDR4, 350 watt psu, and i have just changed gpu to a 3050 8gb from 1060 3gb, My games keeps crashing. I have tried Assasins creed valhalla it crashes on high settings but works well on medium. I have tried assasins creed odyssey it works well on high settings but not on very high, and i have tried warzone and its crashing when shaders are at like 50%, i have also tried overwatch 2 wont crash, also tried fortnite it also wont crash! I know the suggested PSU for 3050 are 550 watt, but my prebuilt is very small and i dont have many opitions, i am not very good at computers as well, my budget is very limited. Does it crash because of bad PSU or that my cpu is bottleneck, Cpu is at 100% when i play does Games! Thanks for help!
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Hi, hi, i'm new to this forum, i built my last PC in 2014 so i don't know about any meta PSU, but i want to build SFF system to travel with ease, atm i have Corsair ATX modular HX850, and it won't fit in any SFF case under 10L. So i want and need your help broskies with choosing a new PSU, SFX format, 750W(i guess, my system is R5 5600G+RTX4060Ti), and somewhat budget, not the highest end, i saw 1StPlayer PSUs, but it's so sketchy, i don't want to burn out my rig. Thank everyone in advance!
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So i am planning to upgrade to a 7800 XT from a 1650 super. I am having a Ryzen 9 3900x, and a 700 watt 80+ bronze PSU (gigabyte B700H) am i good to go with the PSU??
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Please read the entire post. About a year ago I've built a system with the following parts: - Intel Core i5-11400 CPU; - MSI B560M-A PRO mobo; - 24GB Crucial 2400MHz RAM, later maxed out to 64GB DDR4 2666MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM (this is important); - 500GB Kingston Fury Renegade M.2 PCIe Gen4x4 SSD; - AMD Radeon RX 5500 XT 8GB GDDR6 Graphics Card; - Corsair CS850M 850W Semi-Modular 850W 80 Plus Gold PSU (reused from my previous setup). Since the beginning I have noticed the motherboard behaved strangely, even when brand new, during the first few days of use, it would plain refuse to POST... This would fix itself with reseating everything... If I enabled the ERP ready power feature in the UEFI, the computer would take 3 to 5 seconds to power on after I pressed the power button, sometimes it would take longer. So I never enabled that option again. But the weirdest behavior started after I swapped the 24GB RAM for the Vengeance LPX 64GB kit. At first the motherboard only recognized one stick, had to switch them around to get the 64GB accessible. Everything then was fine, even the XMP profile got enabled automatically. But I noticed the mobo would take longer than usual to POST with the new RAM. Nothing major happened until last month... when I shut the display down and went to do something else...later I came back, GPU fans were on full blast and there was no video output to the monitor. I hard restarted the PC... the motherboard for some reason reset the RAM frequency from the rated 2666MHz to just 2133MHz. I then tried enabling XMP again twice, on both attempts the mobo reset the speed back to 2133MHz and gave me a textual warning that the RAM overclock was not stable. (This was, in fact , the first sign something was seriously wrong). But by the 3rd time it worked fine. I also noticed that sometimes on Linux, after a reboot, there would be no display output. Pressing Ctrl Alt Del always fixed it. There were no new major problems or crashes until the night of March 8. After running absolutely fine for the entirety of the day, while I was watching a YT video, the browser tab with the video literally crashed. "Gah. Your tab just crashed." -- At this point, the machine was minutes away from going to PC Heaven -- I didn't know that, and just shrugged the error away as a bug. Though I was still a bit worried because this was my first time seeing that message. 5 minutes later... the entire OS froze, a very loud static noise was heard on the speakers, and the audio from the video started repeating over and over like a broken record. The PC was completely unresponsive, I force restarted it as usual... but this time, it no longer came back. No POST, no USB, no nothing. The mobo will now get stuck on a boot loop alternating for 3 times between the red CPU debug LED and the orange DRAM one. Until it gives up trying to start and stops with the solid orange DRAM LED. My effectively brand new general use and workstation PC is now dead after a little more than 1 year. Is it financially viable to try and fix it or I might as well use the opportunity to upgrade to a newer platform (AM5 or LGA 1700 with DDR5) and also a brand spanking new higher quality PSU? I might even consider jumping to a prebuilt system like the Dell XPS 8960 or the Precision 3660 as I love Dell's reliability and quality.
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Hi. Im searching for a new psu and I don’t know which is the right one. my motherboard only has one 16 pin input and my GPU only has an eight pin one. Can I use the standard psu’s from ASUS or do I need something special?
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Hey everyone! This is my first topic so let me introduce myself shortly. I'm a 27 YO, male who lives in Turkiye. I have an interest in tech in general. So let's ask the question now. I got an Asus Strix 4090 recently and have a 1000 Watts PSU, FSP Hydro G Pro 1000W to be specific. I couldn't find any "easy, found in Google" kind of information about 12VHPWR cable or compatible 3rd party options. Do you guys have any information about this one or any 3rd party suggestion that I can order from Turkiye? I'm using the supplied adapter from Asus with 4x8 Pin connected to it in a Corsair 4000D case. I believe the bend looks ok but I want to be in the safe side with more compact cable solution. I didn't wanna order any type of adapter after the CableMOD news and recalls. Thanks in advance.
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Hey everyone! I've recently experienced a problem with my PC and my homes breaker. Under seemingly the most random of loads; sometimes playing AAA games at max settings with HDR, and other times just on a call with my friend without HDR, my computer will shut off as well as everything else in my room, which I am assuming is my breaker being pulled, since the power loss is exclusively in my room. I've tried many different fixes, most notably using an extension cable to route just my pc power to a different circuit, while leaving everything else like my HDR monitor and other electronics on the other circuit, effectively spitting power usage over two circuits. This did work! For a week or so, until I started seeing this issue happening again (albeit less often then it was happening before) So! Here we are, me sitting at my pc, wondering when it will pull my fuse next. Is there any possible fixes or solutions you can think of? One of the big things I was thinking, is maybe its my PSU? It's quite a budget one, and decided to reuse it after buying a new PC. It's enough to handle my components no problem, even at max load, and hasnt shat out on me. But maybe it is the issue? I ideally dont want to be out 100 bucks for a new PSU if I don't have too. Let me know if that's a fair assumption, and if it is a psu problem, what ones do you recommend for my build? Thanks! PC SPECS: CPU: intel i7-12700k GPU: Nvidia 3070 (8gb) RAM: 32gb 3600 DDR4 MB: asrock b660m-pro PSU: I have no idea, and im too lazy to unplug everything and see. Just assume its a budget PSU. Nothing fancy (If it's really important I can check, just let me know) OS: Windows 11 Home TL;DR: My PC is causing my home's breaker to trip randomly, especially during intense gaming or even simple tasks. I've tried various fixes like routing PC power separately, but the problem persists. Could it be my budget PSU causing the issue? I'm hesitant to buy a new one if it's unnecessary. If that's the issue, got recommendations for a reliable PSU for my build?
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I’m updating my computer and I had to buy an additional PCIe cable, but comparing those that came with the PSU vs. the new one I can see the first pins(from left to right) are empty vs not empty, as seen in the pic, the individual sleeved cable is the new one, the single sleeve cable is the original, the PSU is a corsair AX860, no the ax860i, is a previous version I think, Is it ok to use this cable? is this different to be worried about? ax860 is platinum https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu/cp-9020044-na/ax860-atx-power-supply-860-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu-cp-9020044-na#tab-techspecs and according to legacy compatibility https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/s/legacy-psu-cable-compatibility or I don't know how to read that table...
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My am3+ based gaming pc has come a long way and it's run out of steam, so i'm building a new system and i would like some thoughts on it! Motheboard: Asus prime b650m-k CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700x CPU COOLER: Cooler Master MasterLiquid M240L GPU: AMD Radeon rx7700xt gigabyte RAM: Kingston ddr5 8gb 6000MHz (2 sticks so total of 16GB) SSD: Corsair MP600 core 1tb PC build is aimed at gaming and is based on AM5 for future upgrades being easier. 2 IMPORTANT QUESTION i have are: -is the cooling setup for the cpu going to be enough knowing ryzen 7000 likes to get hot -is my current 560w PSU enough considering the recommended wattage is 525w on most PSU calculator websites. I would feel comfortable with that but the PSU is 8 years old, i have tested it and it always turned out fine, its a modular 80plus gold rated PSU but i think over time it has lost some of its mojo. Sorry if i missed the topic or if i have made a boring, long topic but i appreciate the helpful answers in advanced!
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I am looking at getting a Corsair sf450 80 plus gold, the system has a i74790, msi 797m motherboard and 16gb of 2133mhz ram, is this a big enough supply or not.
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Budget (including currency): Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: High end games, and programming Other details I have been researching for a while to get some good quality parts, with best compatibility and lowest bottlenecks, and ended up with the following build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-14700K 3.4 GHz 20-Core Processor ($389.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 5 CPU Cooler ($79.90 @ Amazon) Thermal Compound: ARCTIC MX-6 4 g Thermal Paste ($6.15 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($256.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6800 CL34 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($849.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Corsair iCUE 5000D RGB AIRFLOW ATX Mid Tower Case ($184.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: be quiet! Straight Power 12 1200 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.90 @ Amazon) Monitor: Dell AW2723DF 27.0" 2560 x 1440 240 Hz Monitor ($499.99 @ Amazon) Total: $2682.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-24 07:13 EST-0500 Please let me know if you think that something should be changed. what i am most quite concerned about is the PSU, CPU cooler and the case. Like would the PSU fit in that case? would the CPU Cooler fit with those RAM sticks on the motherboard, even if i brought 2 more? would all the parts fit in that case? do you recommend other CPU coolers, PSUs or cases? Please note that I already own the Alienware monitor, the 990 PRO and 870 EVO SSDs, the 2 G.Skill Trident RAM sticks, Arctic MX-6. thanks for your help and efforts EDIT: I ended up changing most of the stuff to this: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($349.00 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock X670E Steel Legend ATX AM5 Motherboard ($309.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6800 CL34 Memory ($124.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($102.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($1372.90 @ Amazon) Case: Montech AIR 903 BASE ATX Mid Tower Case ($65.00 @ B&H) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Total: $2480.76 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-02-25 11:18 EST-0500 Does anyone know if I would run into ram clearance issues when using the G.Skill trident Z5 RGB with the Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB? any suggestions? you think I'd run into problems with this build?
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Hi, The TLDR of this is: I have TWO brand new Corsair RM1000e PSU's, both of them cause horrendous audio distortion yet very low volume on my old Z170A with 6700K. Reverting to a 650w Corsair fixes the issue EVERY single time. And the weird bit? It (They/Both PSU's!) do the exact same on another (Same model/BIOS etc) MOBO! --------------------------------- The small (Very, very weird!) story and the setup built in 2015/16?: CPU: Intel 6700K. GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X. >>> PSU: ANTEC EDGE 650W. MOBO: MSI Z170A Gaming M7. RAM: 32GB G-Skill. From when I built it, until a few months ago? All was well, but I got an itch to upgrade the GTX 1080. I bought a 3080TI for decent money and thought...I better think about a PSU upgrade, everything was ruinning great for now. Then while live streaming and going on a smoke break, I turned around to see the whole PC was completely black. Wouldn't turn on, completely dead. The PSU looked to have died, (Man, I loved that ANTEC PSU) Wasn't giving any sign of power to MOBO. Fearing the worst, I wondered if it had taken anything with it. I promptly ordered a new PSU. The Corsair RM1000e. While waiting for it to arrive, I quickly hooked up a spare corsair 650w and tested that everything was alright. Thankfully I was soon watching vids, streams, all the usual. No probs. Just no gaming. The RM1000e turned up. Fitted it. Erm...Every 3.5mm audio out jack sounded horrendous. Horrendously distorted but very, very low volume. Tried different headphones (Inc new pair), different cables. Drivers, man...the damn realtek drivers. Nothing fixes the massive distortion inc on the front headphone jack. The optical out, bluetooth, and the HDMI out audio all sound perfect. I threw the 650w PSU back in, guess what. No audio issues. Back to the RM1000e, audio issues. I requested a replacement. It arrived. Guess what? Exactly...the same issue. I now have two of them here, and both are causing this issue and I'm completely baffled. I have had the 650w IN/OUT/IN/OUT and it replicates the issue/fixes the issue every time. I then presumed it must be the MOBO. Found one used on ebay at £80 quid. It arrived today. Guess what. Yep. Having gone through the nightmare of having my PC in bits all over the house, parts everywhere...I now have a second motherboard, exactly the same model and...Yes. The issue is exactly the same! I'm so tired and confused. EDIT: Not only that, but upon plugging in mouse and keyboard, BOTH got stuck in the second MOBO. I've had this in the past with a cheap case USB port. I got one out with slipping an x-acto knife down the side, but the oither...had to break the little metal tabe off. Brilliant, £80 quid old useless MOBO an the problem still persists! I have been running at bare bones to eliminate things. Simply providing CPU power, GPU power, MOBO power. A single NVME with win10. On the second/same model MOBO, I had to screenshot all my original MOBO's BIOS, copied them to a damn USB stick, stuck em on a tablet, while throwing my CPU in second MOBOa, and then copying EVERY setting except...overclocks. Tried two different GPU's (GTX 1080/3080TI), two exact same motherboards, two brand new RM1000e power supplies. And both are causing the same issue. I am on the machine right now, using the 650w PSU but I won't risk any gaming. The audio on every output is perfect, crisp, clear and loud with this 650w unit, but of course...it's not enough to comfortably run everything. Can anybody please, please suggest what the hell's going on? I've been at this for days now. Why is the RM1000e seemingly incompatible with my setup? In fact, even a second Motherboard with different RAM, different GPU's etc etc. Is it a faulty batch? A batch of bad earths/ground? There's something that's not right
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I just ordered a Xeon e5-2699 V3 machinist motherboard and 32gb DDR4 ram but.. with my current Gpu it takes 518W and I have a 650w psu Will that be Enough headroom? (I don't currently have the money for a New psu and yes I do have Experience with Xeons for gaming)
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Hi Guys, First post here, not too sure in protocol so I’ll just jump right in with my issue. Hope someone can help. I purchased a 5 year old pc from a friend and wanted a CPU and GPU upgrade. I opted for a 7900xtx and a Ryzen 5 5700x3d. 1. Will the RM750x be sufficient for this build? 2. The GPU requires 3x8 pin cables, I currently have 1 sleeved cable that branches off into 2 6+2 cables from the old GPU in place. Is there anything I can do? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Connor
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Hello, So I have an HP z420 Workstation and have been wondering if I could upgrade the GPU. I found the Rx580 to be ideal for my system but, it requires an 8-pin connecter while I have only a single 6-pin connecter. I read some articles that say you can ignore the other two pins and connect the 6 pins only but, I also heard it might cause some overload on the cable and cause some heating or crashes. Please recommend me something other than changing my PSU cause where I live the RX580 already costs a lot, so getting a new PSU would be difficult.
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Just upgraded my GPU (old: Asus STRIX GeForce GTX 970 4 GB, new: Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB) and PSU along with it to match/be ready for near-future upgrades (old: Corsair CS450M 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX, new: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX). Full current build: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/FTFvYN After the upgrade there's strong interferences in the audio jacks, not just a static hum, but crackles and beeps, plugging the headphone jack in/out yields a painfully loud crack. The interferences are the worst in the front panel jack (of the case), but also significant in the rear jack of the motherboard. Audio via the monitors (HDMI) is fine, as well as audio via Bluetooth. Tried moving the front panel cables away from everything else, to the point of pulling them all the way out of the case and holding them in the air, no effect. The audio connector on the motherboard sits only an inch or so above the PSU though, no other alternative. Right above it sits a PCIe Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Adapter, in case that could be relevant, but that one's not new. Put the old 970 GPU back in and the problem stayed the same. Put in the old 450W PSU back in (reusing the modular cables of the new PSU) and the issues were gone, all audio was fine. Put in the new 4070 GPU and 750W PSU again and the interferences were there again. Called the tech store and they suspected that it was probably a faulty PSU. Exchanged that, put the new one (same model) in and... same problem still. Aside from MacGyvering a PSU cover EMI shield out of tinfoil or something I'm out of ideas. Any pointers? Or are there any known news about a whole faulty batch of PSUs? Or is that model/line generally known for being not great quality? Or just higher wattage resulting in more EMI and the mobo/case connectors aren't shielded enough to handle that?
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Hello users of the LTT forum, after a lot of reseating and troubleshooting I finally decided to try another PSU since my vega wasn't giving me a display signal. I replaced my immaculate Straight Power 10 600 Watt Gold Efficiency PSU, which has been powering a much more power hungry GPU for about a year now, with a 450W System power 7. And this hail mary worked for some reason. I'm sort of confused and also pissed since I wasted so much time on troubleshooting and cannot fathom why the vega only accepts my crappy 10 year old PSU. I'm also not entirely sure whether I can now be certain that the GPU is fine since I've been planning to sell it if I got it to work. Any input is appreciated, the card has been running Doom Eternal/Forza Horizon in 4k without issues for multiple hours now. Pictured below: the GPU in question and the AMD Software while Doom is running. Greetings from Germany, Kevin
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Evening fine people Recently moved my pc from a diffrent room to a new room and tried to turn the system on, however when I tried to the pc will power on the GPU, the storage drives and a seperate fan controller but the motherboard will not power on as can be seen by the fact it's LED will not power up and the cpu fan doesn't spin. I tried plugging the computer back into the original place but the problem remains the same. The PU is receiving power as is the fan controller but my motherboard will not Further to this, after moving the setup iv noticed a strange crackling noise coming from the PSU. This hasn't happened before and I was wondering could this be a Psu issue despite the fact it can power on both the GPU and the case fans. I unplugged and reset both the memory sticks in case this was the issue and tried to remove individual parts starting with the GPU to see if this remediates the issue but to no resolve As always any assistance is greatly appreciated and system specs are down below, Thank you ever so much you amazing people RTX 3060 - GIGABYTE 15 8600k - INTEL 600 W PSU SILVER - EVGA Z370 PD3 MOBO - GIGABYTE 2400mhz 8gb × 2 DDR4 RAM - CORSAIR
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Hello, I face a problem when i use my atx corsair psu in oem dell optiplex 390 motherboard, i plugged the 24 atx connector and the 4 pin for cpu ( actually i have 8 pins but i split it in two) the light orange show up but when i turn on pc, there's no signs of anything, cpu fans doesn't turn at all, i tried many times but no result, however when i use an old matx hp psu 300w it work fine, pc turns on, so you will said that the problem is from psu but it isn't, i try this corsair with other pc and it works fine, so that's true there are psu which are no compatible with some motherboard?!
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So as i said in the title I'm about to do an upgrade on my PC but i only have an XFX XTR 550w Gold PSU (Was "Tier A" when i bought it like 4-5 Years ago not sure about now). Current specs are listed here (CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/lh33b9) but in summary i have Undervolted and Overclocked the following parts. CPU(5600X) GPU(1070TI EVGA Ultra Silent FTW) RAM(2x8GB Trident Z DDR4 3600MHz cl18) If you need more details just let me know. So question is should i buy first a GPU(Probably Used one) and after 2-3 months a PSU or the other way around? I'm thinking about buying a 3070/ti/super (Which ever is around 300euro at the time) I've checked on PSU Calculator and all my parts(Overclocked) with a 3070 at 100% TDP is around 450W which means i have a headroom of 100W. Preferably i would like the GPU first but i can get the PSU and wait 1-2 months if that makes things right. Is it too much for my PSU to handle? Should I undo all the overclock and keep the undervolt in order to have more headroom if i get the GPU first? If you have any other GPU in mind feel free to let me know.
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Hey, I’m currently studying at uni and I’m home only during the weekend. Therefore I turn off my pc and. I do it with the backswitch from the psu. Yesterday I accidently switched it slowly, (it took mby ~2 seconds) instead of swift click. And I heard little noise. From what I’ve browsed I know it was a small short and this switch is not supposed do be clicked slowly. I will keep it in mind for the future. But I wanted to ask is there anything to be worried about this? PC seems to be working totally fine and my PSU is 4years old BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850w. Would love to hear some opinions since I have OCD and it’s another concern for me.
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Hi! Built a new computer, need it for work. Context: - New parts: i7 14700k + Maxsun Z790 + 64gb ram corsair 6000mhz + MSI MAG A850GL 850W. - Old parts: RX590 TDP 175W (need to use old GPU, I test games). Cleaned and put new thermal paste. Extra info: Updated bios, drivers, everything. Mobo has 2 CPU power headers, I plugged both of them in. Extra info: CPU is not overheating (PS120SE), GPU is not overheating, memory is not overheating. Problem: - Computer crashes if I leave the RX590 at 100% power limit. Mouse/image freezes and I need to reboot manually. - Stable if I leave the RX590 at 85% power limit. - Stable if I put my old PSU (old model CX600M) even with the GPU at 115% power limit. Tests I did (all with stock CPU/mobo, except for first): Hypothesis: a) New 850w PSU is optimized for PCI-E5 (16pin) so it can't "deliver" much through a 8pin (6+2) RX590. b) Some stock config is letting the mobo pull insane amount of powers (its at default/stock). c) Faulty 850W PSU. d) RX590 (TDP 175W) + 14700k is "too much" for a the MSI MAG A850 850W (gold rated, tier A) - this would make no sense as the CX600M was holding the same setup fine. e) I'm dumb and I'm missing something obvious. Questions: I) What should I do? I'm tweaking for 5 days and getting insane, I can't return the PSU now as I need this pc to work, I got a newborn baby and money is short. II) Does it make "sense" that the new PSU is optimized for new cards and deliver "too little" on the old 6+2 pci-express cable GPU? III) Does the type of "crash" with the image freezing, fans still spinning means something in particular? Or is it generic? Every error I had was 41-(63) Kernel-Power. I'd love to test a PCI-E (16pin) GPU as it would be de definite test but I don't have money for one. Thanks, sorry for the wall of text, trying to make it as organized as possible. Extra: PSU specifications, I don't know how to check how much power it delivers through the 8pins pci-e default (the "main" one is the 16pins)
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I built a pc fairly recently, like a month or so. Everything has been working great and last night all was fine but I turn it on this morning and the psu fan blows super hard and stops then blows hard again. Everything works fine, temps are not high, load is not high. Tried turning on an intensive game and it still blew hard. Obviously is not full of dust as it is a month old. It is a Corsair RM750e. What is going on and do I need to replace it? That would be less than ideal.