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Budget (including currency): $5,000+ Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: It should easily do anything that I ask it to do! Elden Ring, Cyberpunk 2077, Valve Index VR Other Details This project has been over a year in the making. AMD Ryzen 9 5950X EVGA FTW 3 3080ti Asus X570 Crosshair viii Hero (WiFi) 32GB G. Skill Trident Z Neo 16-19-19-39 1 TB WD Black SN 850 NVME boot drive 2 TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME 2-2 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD in Raid1 EK Quantum front and active back GPU water blocks EK Quantum Momentum CPU water block Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL with vertical GPU mount EK Quantum Reflection front distribution plate 3- Hardware Labs Black Ice 360GTS 30mm radiators 10- EK Vardar 120 mm RGB fans F*** Ton of Primochill RSX fittings, rotaries, elbows, extensions etc. 1- EK Quantum 90° rotary elbow Lots of Primochill 1/2" rigid tubing CableMod custom CPU, GPU, 24pin Primochill VUE Powder Blue Uncountable hours of stress, annoyance, time spent waiting for a GPU, blood, sweat, tears, and of course utter and complete despair. I started ordering parts for this build in January 2021 which turned out to be a bad idea. My first mock-up and install of everything didn't post for some reason. Originally, I had intended to go with a AMD Ryzen 5 5600X, but got trapped in the NewEgg shuffle attempting to find a GPU and ended up with a 5950X that I paid too much for and can't recoup my money for. I was able to find everything immediately except for my GPU. Sometime around June, I got fed up and paid (at the time) scalper pricing for my EVGA FTW3 3080ti through ebay. After that, I had to wait for EK's delivery times from Europe, and then I got overwhelmed by the scope of the water-cooling project, so I delayed another month or so. The initial build went great! I had the stock cooler that came with the 5600X plus the GPU was air-cooled from the factory. I was able to flash my BIOS easily (thank you ASUS!), and never had a hint of a problem posting. I was initially using the Fractal Design Flex B-20 PCIe 3.0 x 16 vertical GPU adapter with the BIOS setting for the GPU (PCIE 4 vs 3) set to automatic. I initially tested the post using an Nvidia Geforce GTX 970, but I never had problems getting the 3080ti to work using the PCIe 3 cable. Windows 10 Pro installed easily on the WD Black SN850, and the system worked perfectly! I then did a rough assembly with everything air-cooled until I could get all of my water blocks and fittings delivered. Everything was perfect for a couple of months! I finally got all of the water blocks from EK. And postponed the water install because I was playing Sekiro... But, I did finally tear everything (all blocks and fittings) fully apart to thoroughly clean with Primochill SystemSoap. Then to bending tubes. The Top Radiator, both CPU, and the front GPU tubes were all rather simple. I ended up purchasing the Lian Li Vertical GPU mount for the O11 DXL with the PCIe 4.0 cable and using it instead of the Fractal Design which forced me to nest the Bottom/Sided Radiator tubes right against the fans. There is no aditional clearance whatsoever. The loop goes from the Distro --> Bottom Rad --> EK Loop Connect flow meter --> Side Radiator --> EK filter --> Distro. The connection from Side Radiator --> Distro was a pain in my a**! I ended up going with a 30° Elbow, and it still required quite a bit of force on the tube. The back of the GPU was also a b****. I had to do an immediate 90° drop down about 20mm to another 90° in order to clear the RAM. I also threw an EK Temperature Sensor behind the GPU here. Then it goes to a 180° rotary to get us back to the Distro. This is when I realized that I had a really bad leak using my Bykski Air Pressure Meter. So I took each component out of the chassis again testing each time to see that I still had a massive leak. After taking every component out, I came to the realization that either I am completely incompetent or my Pressure Tester was jacked. Sure enough putting the tester directly into a Shut Off Valve proved that it was the tester itself all along. This annoyance and frustration left me to postpone any further efforts for a few weeks as I waited for an EK leak tester to arrive. This brings us to now. I have been putting the components in one at a time and testing as I go. I have the Front Distro Plate, Side Radiator, and Bottom Radiator all fully installed and leak-free!!!!! My GPU is a different story. I have a TINY leak somewhere. When testing, I slowly lose air over about 30 hours. Within the first 15 minutes, I probably drop about 0.025 bar, maybe less. I am currently talking with EK support about the best course of action. I would prefer to not have to tear the GPU blocks off and apart, but I think that is where this is all going to end up. All along, I've been struggling with the cable management. All in, I've got the CableMod CPU, GPU, and 24 Pin 10 - fan cables 10 - 12v 4 pin RGB 5 - 5v 3 pin RGB 2 - SATA 1 - Molex pump power 1 - flow meter 1 - loop temperature sensor And all of the front panel The O11's hot-swappable bays are amazing, and made the HDD's install a breeze. This chassis in general is terrific to work in. The channel for cable management is huge, and it held my massive bundles easily. Honestly, I could have done nothing and just covered the Rat's Nest with the included cable hiding wall, and nobody would be the wiser. My biggest trouble spot was getting the front panel cables to squeeze around the Side Radiator and fans. You can fit a 30mm radiator and a 25mm fan in the back, but it is very tight; the back panel may bulge a tad. I ended up having to get three Cooler Master 5-way RGB Splitters as well as one SilverStone PWM fan hub. All in, I'd say I was routing, rerouting, threading, bundling, tieing cables down, and cursing my life choices for about 3 hours. I'm satisfied with the result even though it almost looks the same.

Hey, I was planning on finally buying an AIO so I could overclock my 4690k since I've found a sweet deal on the Corsair H110i GT (probably getting rid of old stock). Along with it, I was interested in doing a mod that others have done; where you wrap the tubing of an AIO with tubing used for watercooling to improve it's aesthetics. So my questions is, is the 'promchill advanced lrt' tubing (the red one in particular) see-through? Would it fully block out the AIO tubing? As a side note: What size tubing would be most suitable? I've heard an ID of 1/2" would be adequate.

Hey, First ever custom loop. I flushed the rad 3 times with hot water (BI nemesis), flushed the loop twice with distilled then filled again and added the biocide (I think and maybe anticorrosive?) that came with the primoflex lrt tubing and tested for 24 hours. No leaks but after having left it alone for a couple of days there's greenish residue on the sides of the res and white deposit at the bottom. WTF? (I didn't use the precleaner that came with the tubing could that be the issue??) Should I drain and flush and start again or what's going on?

Well, I was browsing around searching for some recent news about the coolant. But then I stumbled upon their webshop and discovered they have added their new Vue coolant. It's still on pre-order only though but I'm pretty exited now. https://www.primochill.com/collections/vue-unique-visual

I am having trouble deciding between using Mayhems Ice White pastel with the Mayhems non-stain blue dye or going with Primochill Opaque sky white SX with Primochill Steel Blue Intensifier transparent dye. Which is better and will either gunk up my system? I will have pedestals for radiators using soft tube (primochill advanced LRT) and use pass-through fittings with acrylic tubing for my main loop. I also will clean it with mayhems blitz pt 1 and 2 for my system. I assume I won't experiance and 'gunking up' in my loops. Thanks for your help!

Just wondering what color VUE everyone ordered? I'm beyond excited to get this stuff in!

Anyone else anxiously awaiting them to start selling this stuff to the public? I'm basically sitting on The edge of my seat. I have a buddy who got a couple bottles, but he used one and a half and he can't get any more. From what I can tell so far it seems to pretty much be an equivalent of Aurora that is okay to run regularly. Would love to know when the release date is.

Good afternoon everyone, I've been a super long time lurker but I've now the need to ask a question, so here I am all registered. I've been slowly building my SFF hardline water cooled system for a good 5 months now - the final parts arrived this weekend so I've slowly and methodically been building it up. This afternoon, I finished the loop and am ready to get this shindig underway but after priming the reservoir with 1/2 bottle of cooler-water (dye hasn't been added yet) I flicked the PSU switch to engage the pump to draw the water around the loop - nothing happens. There's no buzzing in the pump, there's no bubbles and no vibrations. I'm running a PrimoChill Rez / Pump combo (D5) and it's never been used before (it was pre-constructed bought from PrimoChill, so I've not incorrectly put it together). The pump has a 4-pin PWM and a molex, both of which are connected. I watched a bazillion videos around this, and I can't see what I'm doing wrong. I have two 6-pin to molex adapters, and have confirmed that they can power a spare fan I have lying around. I have currently tried the following configuration mixtures; Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to Molex-3pin_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex1 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan via splitter, the other fan is working, the pump is not. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to Molex-3pin_Fan - silence. Connected to Molex2 / Fan connected to CPU_Fan via splitter, the other fan is working, the pump is not. Do you think this is a power issue with the pump? I have read around that the pump should engage even without a fan input. Or do you think that the pump is dead? I have connected the whole system up (powered on the MoBo and got to BIOs very quickly and very short span, the fan outputs are reading N/A so I'm guessing it is power related... Happy to provide more information, picture, the works. Any thoughts? Cheers Nik

Hello everyone, This is the start of my build log for my new custom water loop. I would like to think I am fairly knowledgeable at PC building. I have done 5 custom builds and truly love doing it. I have wanted to do a custom loop since day one and knew it just wasn't in the cards in my previous builds. Full time worker with a wife and a daughter, sometimes the PC building has to take a back seat! My latest build I knew was eventually going to get a custom loop so I built it about a year ago with the intention of adding it later. Well I am at that time now and have been lurking around these forums for a long time and decided it was time to make an account and show my work for whoever wants to look! ill update the build as I progress, any suggestions are welcomed!!! Current Build as of now: AMD Ryzen 1600 @3.9ghz EVGA GTX 1080 SC 16GB GSkill Trident Z MSI B350 Gaming Pro Carbon EVGA BQ850 NZXT Kraken X62 NZXT H700i Custom loop parts: All my parts have arrived and i am going to tear everything down in a few days and start planning it out. I have never bent tubes before so it will be completely new for me but i am excited to take on the challenge. i am starting with a simple CPU only loop and have parts from Primo Chill and EKWB. EK 140 Pump/res combo EK Supremacy EVO RGB block EK SE360 Slim Rad EK Furious Vardar fans x3 EK cryofuel acid green PrimoChill fittings/drain in UV green PrimoChill tubing

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1070-gtx-ti-asus-rgb-nickel I wanted a rgb waterblock for the 1070ti (asus strix), but the description says only for the Asus cerebrus 1070ti and asus turbo 1070ti, so will it fit(i.e is it the same PCB or something else?) Also ekwb always recommends using only their own fluid for the cooling because they say that if anti-corrosives are absent in the liquid, then the blocks will deteriorate, so my question is whether I can use Primochill vue as a coolant.

It's been a while since I posted on the forums, so uh... hi. Feel free to skip all the talky backstory bits and jump straight to the video at the bottom. Anyway, here's Wonderwall. Here's a demo of how my lighting works before I installed it: And some unicorn barf after I got the water stuff all hooked up:

Didn't find any other threads with this in it and kinda concerned/curious as to what is going on. Did a custom loop and filled with the Primochill Vue about 3 months ago, the computer runs for maybe 4-6 hours a day, sometimes longer like weekends. I have noticed that slowly my reservoir is getting lower and lower, when I first built it it was full, now it is about a quarter of an inch low. Checked everywhere for leaks and can't seem to find any. I know the Vue is notorious for separating and gumming up components but so far there have been no change in thermals to indicate any obstructions. Just wondering if others have noticed their fluids evaporating over time (I would assume they do a bit due to the heat) or if this may be a sign of the fluid starting to separate. Thanks for the help.

Hello, Posted here before a little while ago, I'm new to the watercooling section and getting into it right away with Primochill Vue. (I'm aware of the many issues with it) I'm hoping on better results since it's a new loop, and try to get it as clean/prepared as I can. Trying to follow their guide : https://keepingit.cool/vue A list of my components can be found below if you want to peek (mostly EK), lets get to it. Warm Soapy Water (Use Dawn Dish Soap) The suggest warm soapy water, I live in the netherlands could I just use some regular Dreft? Short story is that I have to tear apart everything I can and clean it really well. Then the confusing part for me is the following : They are talking about "prep fluid" and "prep flush" these are terms i imagine which i find a bit confusing. No idea what they exactly mean with prep fluid but it seems I have to put it in my system for leaks. Then again they want me to add distilled water for the same purpose? Then they want me to use 'prep flush' so Sysprep with Distilled water. (1 bottle per 3,7 litters) mix it (shake) for 30 seconds and put it in for 24-48 hours, assuming this is once if its fairly clean else an other 24-48 hours with a new mix? Do I rinse the system with distilled water after or is this unnecessary?

So i'm doing my first loop very soon. EK Parts with PromoChill Vue Cobalt. I see some complaints about things people forgot or dind't clean well so here I am to ask. The Mayhems Blitz Cleaning System will be used to clean everything, the build will have. (will put links to the exact components in a hour or 2) EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal Asus 1080 Ti Poseidon (built in) Asus z370 Formula X (built in VRM) EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) EK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual) D5 Pump with Res (not sure which one yet.) PETG Hard tubing Are there more things I can think about to get the most limited amount of problems with the coolant.

Filled my first loop with distilled plus the Liquid Utopia mix that came with the tubing (primochill advanced lrt). The mix makes one gallon so I have a ton left over in a plastic water jug. Same with the SysPrep. Any risk of leaching from the plastic container over time? Will this stuff still be good when it's time to flush/refill my loop?

I have the Primochil D5 Lansing. I have the Bitspower D5 Mod top with Black POM. Just as a Test I put on one long, one short tube to the pump, and put the long on in the water. IE 6-8" long, and the short one 2-3". Turned it on, and well the pump spins. That's it. So tried to prime with, got water in the pump, held on to the base of tube put in water, and turned it on. Ok it still spins, didn't even try to pick up water at all. Double checked to that the big washer was on the inside. Yep, its their. So... Stuck Suggestions... Good thing their is this Rule. Make sure things work before putting them togeather. Mark

I'm at the design and parts selection phase of a full custom loop, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with purchasing parts online and shipping them to Canada. I'm hoping to get the fittings, radiators, tubing and coolant from Primochill, and the CPU/GPU blocks, and pump/res combo from EK, but I'm open to options or other ideas if you have them. I was hoping to use NCIX, as they seemed to stock lots of EK parts, but that's obviously not an option any more. I've heard and read good things about Dazmode, but he doesn't seem to carry much Primochill, and even the EKWB stock is a bit patchy. I understand that I'll likely end up paying duty, shipping, import fees, etc., but I'd rather know in advance if one company is better than another, and to avoid being hit with hundreds in unexpected fees. Thanks in advance for any insight you may have.

Hello, I´m planning a water cooling loop and I don´t know which fitting I have to use for PrimoChill Rigid Tube (OD 13mm/ID 10mm) I have planned to use EK-HDC fittings,these one´s : https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-gold Do you have any experiences with using a combination of these? TheRealN00b a.k.a Früchte

I have a few basic questions for my first liquid cooling build. Not all are liquid cooling related but I rather ask them in one go than make multiple threads. 1. I bought Primochill rigid acrylic 1/2" tubing from Amazon and a bunch of barrow fittings from Ali Express - the fittings were all made for 12mm tubes I believe. The Primochill tubing doesn't fit the fittings, The tubes are too big in diameter. I read somewhere that different companies use different standards (imperial vs. metric standard). I am guessing Barrow is using metric while Primochill is using imperial and they aren't compatible. I am not going to buy another set of fittings as they were much more expensive than the tubing. Buying 12mm tubing is a more practical option . Which brand of acryllic tubing will be compatible with Barrow fittings? 2. I got the EVGA SLI pro bridge v2 and it only goes into half of the SLI connector. Is that how it is supposed to be? Does the other half stay uncovered? See picture for reference. 3. I want to add a mid plate in my case - the case is a Corsair Air 540. I cut out the bottom plate as that was getting in the way of the tubes and mobo wires. I will put a custom mesh grill there to close the bottom area. The question is how does the mid plate stay in place? What kind of support does it need? I have seen and read a lot of tuturials and haven't found any info on it. 4. What's the best order of installing components in a liquid cooled system? Do I install everything first and then add tubes or do I install tubes and components at the same time as more and more room gets taken up by the components . Is there a "best practices" recommendation for setting it up? Thanks.

I noticed that EVOLV ATX has some pre drilled holes in the front, around drive shrouds, possibly for res mounting. I wonder if anyone here tried to fit XSPC Photon or Primochill CTR (or maybe somethying else, I know EKWB with single screw brackets would fit, but I'd prefer pump/res combo). Did it fit natively or do you still have to drill holes?

I am working on a build where I will be using hard tubes and want to have a black/red color scheme. I have bought a set of UV reactive red/pink colored Primochill acrylic tubes already but I am not sure if I want to have a colored coolant. Today I also received my FusionQ dual bay reservoir that has a red UV reactive spiral structure inside the reservoir (the coolant doesn't go inside the structure - that's for display only, coolant goes inside the reservoir itself). When I put the primochill tube and the fusionQ reservoir side by side, there was an obvious disparity of glow between the two. The FusionQ reservoir is far more "brighter" than the hollow tube. When I added the bright LEDs of the fan to the mix, it was pretty hard to tell that the tube is even UV reactive when it was in front of the light. I am uploading a picture that I took with my DSLR, but it does make it look better than what the naked eye can tell. It looks almost transparent when in light. I am planning on putting the fans in pull configuration so the light will be blocked by the radiators. Still, if I can make it look more sleek with a darker shade of red I rather do that. I am going to have red LEDs on the video cards and the CPU block though. So at this point I am thinking of using something like blood red tubing from primo chill to keep that look. The other thing is, the CPU block and the video cards have transparent acrylic on them. If I use simple distilled water, it won't have that red running through them. I was leaning towards a combination of UV reactive red acrylic tubes and Mayhem red pastel combo, but then I am afraid the pastel will hide the FusionQ reservoir's spiral helix. I have come up with a few options: 1. Use red UV tubes with blood red coolant - keep the glow + red color throughout 2. Use blood red tubes with blood red coolant - lose the glow but keep a better looking red colored tubes regardless of the lightening conditions. This also adds the option to add more LEDs. 3. Use clear (or blood red) tubes with pastel red - No glow and darker red. This will only work if pastel doesn't hide the helix in the FrozenQ due to it's opacity. 4. Use UV tubes with a UV reactive coolant - keep the glow, this seems like something worth trying but then I have read plenty of warnings about UV coolants having all kinds of clogging issues. The reason for me insisting on red coolant is due to the acrylic on CPU + GPU blocks being transparent. I figured red running through them will look great. Although the cpu block is XSPX raystorm pro with a red LED and the GPU is 980ti hydro copper (which has the top side covered so I won't get to see that anyways). Any other ideas are welcome.

I've had my (first ever) loop up and running for about 6 weeks now and had opted for a blue theme and obviously wanted a liquid dye to fit with the overall look. I knew that Mayhems was extremely popular but my admittedly half-assed search only turned up their pastel colors and the light blue simply wouldn't have fit with the look. I ended up going with Primochil - specifically the Steel Blue concentrated dye you add to distilled water yourself. I can safely say that I was not happy with the final color and no matter how much of the dye I added it simply wouldn't get any darker than what you see in the picture below. Things basically got worse from this point and 3 weeks later all traces of the dye had disappeared from the water and I was left with what looked like pure distilled water! I went back and took a proper look at Mayhems and found that they did sell a concentrated non-stain blue dye, so I purchased this, drained my loop and filled it back up using the Mayhems stuff. I am now much happier with the color but I wanted to know if anyone else has had similar issues with the Primochill dye or is something strange happening in my loop that I'm not aware of?

ok so i sold my Ncase m1 with my titan x and its ok water cooling... got myself a new corsair 450d case. the build SO FAR..... corsair 450d ASUS mark s mobo 32gb corsair dominator platinum 2133mhz CL9 with white led upgrade kit 2x 1TB 850 evos in raid 0 corsair RM1000 PSU single 980ti so far, will be getting a 2nd soon. in this case i can fit 2x360mm rads. 1 in front and 1 on top. i plan to use the F2 series fans from the EK vardar line (1450rpm so that my pc is QUIET) push-pull if i have room will having 2x360mm rads be enough for and OC 4790k and 2 probably OC'd 980ti's? any brands of rads that are better at cooling? or should i add something like this http://www.xs-pc.com/radiator-accessories/ax-radiator-desk-stand-black with a 480mm rad on it which would look cool sitting on my desk. full black and white build. i plan to use xspc raystorm w/ white leds on cpu and gpus (once they come out with those) would like to do a petg hardtube build but will use flexible tubing if i need to add a outside rad. keep in mind, im not looking for AMAZING temps but rather a QUIET pc. i was using a old 7970 windforce and even that got loud for my taste. (7970 OC for sale if anyone interested)